UNIVERSITY  OF  CM  IFORNIA    qAN  niFGO 


3  1822  00803  1825 


i  LIBRARY 

I  UNIVERStrY9» 

I  CALIFORMW 

I  SAN  CMEQO 


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3  1822  00803  1825 


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THE   ADVENTURES 


CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE 


WASHINGTON    IRVING. 


CHICAGO   AND   NEW  YORK  : 
BELFORD,  CLA.RKE   &   COMPANY, 

PUBLISUERS. 


TROW't 

PRINTING  AND  OOOKBINDINQ  COMP,  T  ' 
NEW  YORK. 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


While  engaged  in  writing  an  account  of  the  grand  cnter- 
I)rise  of  Astoria,  it  was  my  practice  to  seek  all  kinds  of  oral 
information  connected  with  the  subject.  Kowhere  did  I  pick 
up  more  interesting  particulars  than  at  the  table  of  Mr.  Jolui 
Jacob  Astor,  who,  being  the  patriarch  of  the  fur  trade  in  the 
United  States,  was  accustomed  to  have  at  his  board  various 
persons  of  adventurous  turn,  some  of  whom  had  been  engaged 
in  his  own  great  undertaking;  others,  on  their  o^\'T).  account, 
had  made  expeditions  to  the  Kocky  Mountains  and  the  waters 
of  the  Columbia. 

Among  these  personages,  one  who  peculiarly  took  my  fancy 
was  Captain  Bonneville,  of  the  United  States  army ;  who,  in  a 
rambling  kind  of  enterprise,  had  strangely  ingrafted  the  trap- 
per and  hunter  upon  the  soldier.  As  his  expeditions  and  ad- 
ventures will  form  the  leading  theme  of  the  f olloA\ing  pages,  a 
few  biographical  particulars  concerning  him  may  not  be  unac- 
ceptable. 

Captain  Bonneville  is  of  French  parentage.  His  father  was 
a  worthy  old  emigrant,  who  came  to  this  countrj^  many  yoai'S 
since,  and  took  up  his  abode  in  New  York.  He  is  represented 
as  a  man  not  much  calculated  for  the  sordid  struggle  oi'  a 
money-making  world,  but  possessed  of  a  happy  temperament, 
ii  festivity  of  imagination,  and  a  simpUcity  of  heart  that  made 
him  proof  against  its  rabs  and  trials.  He  was  an  excellent 
scholar;  ■v/ell  acquainted  with  Latin  and  Greek,  and  fond  of 
the  modern  classics.  His  book  was  his  elysium;  once  im- 
mersed in  the  pages  of  Voltaire,  Corneille,  or  Racine,  or  of  his 
favorite  English  author,  Shakspearo,  he  forgot  the  world  and 
all  its  concerns.  Often  woidd  he  be  seen,  in  summer  weather, 
seated  under  ono  of  the  trees  on  the  Batterj',  or  the  portico  of 
St.  Paul's  Churcli  in  Broadway,  his  bald  head  uncovered,  his 
hat  lying  by  his  sif^'e,  his  eyes  riveted  to  the  page  of  his  book, 


4  INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 

and  his  whole  soul  so  engaged  as  to  lose  all  consciousness  of  the 
passing  throng  or  the  passing  hour. 

Captain  Bonneville,  it  will  be  found,  inherited  something  of 
his  father's  bonhomie,  and  his  excitable  imagination ;  though 
the  latter  was  somewhat  disciplined  in  early  years  by  mathe- 
matical studies.  He  was  educated  at  our  national  Mihtary 
Academy  at  West  Point,  where  he  acquitted  himself  very 
creditably ;  thence,  he  entered  the  army,  in  which  he  has  ever 
since  continued. 

The  nature  of  our  military  service  took  him  to  the  frontier, 
where,  for  a  number  of  years  he  was  stationed  at  various 
posts  in  the  Far  West.  Here  he  was  brought  into  frequent 
intercourse  with  Indian  traders,  mountain  trappers,  and  other 
pioneers  of  the  wilderness;  and  became  so  excited  by  their 
tales  of  wild  scenes  and  wild  adventui-es,  and  their  accounts  of 
vast  and  magnificent  regions  as  yet  unexplored,  that  an  expe- 
dition to  the  Rocky  Mountains  became  the  ardent  desire  of  his 
heart,  and  an  enterprise  to  explore  untrodden  tracts,  the  lead- 
ing object  of  his  ambition. 

By  degrees  he  shaped  his  vague  day-dream  into  a  practical 
reality.  Having  made  himself  acquainted  with  all  the  requi- 
sites for  a  trading  enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  he  deter- 
mined to  imdertake  it.  A  leave  of  absence  and  a  sanction  of 
his  expedition  was  obtained  from  the  major  general  in  cliief, 
on  his  offering  to  combine  public  utility  with  his  private  pro- 
jects, and  to  collect  statistical  information  for  the  War  De- 
partment concerning  the  wild  countries  and  wild  tribes  he 
might  visit  in  the  course  of  his  journeyings. 

Nothing  now  was  wanting  to  the  darling  project  of  the  cap- 
tain but  the  ways  and  means.  The  expedition  would  require 
an  outfit  of  many  thousand  dollars ;  a  staggering  obstacle  to 
a,  soldier,  whose  capital  is  seldom  anything  more  than  his 
sword.  FuU  of  that  buoyant  hope,  however,  which  belongs  to 
the  sangitine  temperament,  he  repaired  to  New  York,  the 
great  focus  of  American  enterprise,  where  there  are  always 
funds  ready  for  any  scheme,  however  chimerical  or  romantic. 
Here  he  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  with  a  gentleman  of 
high  respectability  and  influence,  who  had  been  his  associate 
in  boyhood,  and  who  cherished  a  schoolfellow  friendship  for 
him.  He  took  a  general  interest  in  the  scheme  of  the  captain ; 
introduced  him  to  commercial  men  of  his  acquaintance,  end  in 
a  little  while  an  association  was  formed,  and  the  necessc..ry 
funds  were  raised  to  carry  the  proposed  measiu'e  into  effect. 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE.  5 

One  of  the  most  efSciont  persons  in  this  association  was  Mr. 
Alfred  Seton,  who,  when  quite  a  youth,  had  accompani«d  one 
of  the  expeditions  sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  to  his  commercial  es- 
tablishments on  the  Columbia,  and  had  distinguished  himself 
by  his  activity  and  courage  at  one  of  the  interior  posts,  ilr. 
Seton  was  one  of  the  American  youths  who  were  at  Astoria  at 
the  time  of  its  surrender  to  the  British,  and  who  manifested 
Buch  grief  and  indignation  at  seeing  the  flag  of  their  country 
hauled  down.  The  hope  of  seeing  tliat  flag  once  more  planted 
on  the  shores  of  the  Columbia  may  have  entered  into  his  mo- 
tives for  engaging  in  the  present  enterprise. 

Thus  backed  and  provided.  Captain  Bonneville  undertook 
his  expedition  into  the  Far  West,  and  was  soon  beyond  the 
Kocky  Mountains.  Year  after  year  elapsed  without  his  re- 
turn. The  term  of  his  leave  of  absence  expired,  yet  no  re- 
port was  made  of  him  at  headquarters  at  Washington.  He 
was  considered  virtually  dead  or  lost,  and  his  name  was 
stricken  from  the  armj-  list. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1835,  at  the  country  seat  of  Mr. 
John  Jacob  Astor,  at  HeUgate,  that  I  first  met  with  Captain 
Bonneville.  He  was  then  just  returned  from  a  residence  of 
upward  of  three  yeai"s  among  the  mountains,  and  was  on  his 
way  to  report  himself  at  headquarters,  in  tlie  hopes  of  bemg 
reinstated  in  the  service.  From  all  that  I  could  learn,  his 
wanderings  in  the  wilderness,  though  they  had  gratified  his 
curiosity  and  his  love  of  adventure,  had  not  much  benefited 
his  fortunes.  Like  Corporal  Trim  in  his  campaigns,  he  had 
"satisfied  the  sentiment."  and  that  was  all.  In  fact,  he  was 
too  much  of  the  frank,  freehearted  soldier,  and  had  inherited 
too  much  of  his  father's  temperament,  to  make  a  scheming 
trapper,  or  a  thrifty  bargainer.  Thei-e  was  something  in  the 
whole  appearance  of  the  captain  that  prepossessed  me  in  hi>r 
favor.  He  was  of  the  middle  size,  well  made  and  well  set :  and 
a  mihtary  frock  of  foreign  cut,  that  had  seen  service,  gavt' 
him  a  look  of  compactness.  His  countenance  was  frank,  open, 
and  engaging ;  well  browned  by  the  sun,  and  had  something  of 
a  French  expression.  He  had  a  pleasant  black  eye,  a  high  fore- 
head, and,  while  he  kept  his  hat  on,  the  look  of  a  man  in  the 
jocund  prime  of  his  days;  but  the  moment  hi-^  head  was  un- 
covered, a  bald  crown  gained  him  credit  for  a  few  more  years 
than  he  was  really  entitled  to. 

Being  extremely  curious,  at  the  time,  about  everything  con- 
nected with  the  Far  West,  I  addressed  numerous  questions  to 


6  TNTRODUCTORT  NOTICE. 

him.  They  drew  from  him  a  number  of  extremely  striking  de^ 
tails,  which  were  given  with  mingled  modesty  and  frankness ; 
and  in  a  gentleness  of  manner,  and  a  soft  tone  of  voice,  contrast- 
ing singularly  with  the  wild  and  often  startling  nature  of  his 
themes.  It  was  difficult  to  conceive  the  mild,  quiet-looking 
personage  before  you,  the  actual  hero  of  the  stirring  scenes 
related. 

In  the  course  of  three  or  four  months,  happening  to  be  at  the 
city  of  Washington,  I  again  came  upon  the  captain,  who  was 
attending  the  slow  adjustment  of  his  affairs  with  the  War  De- 
partment. I  found  him  quartered  with  a  worthy  brother  in 
arms,  a  major  in  the  army.  Here  he  was  writing  at  a  table, 
covered  with  maps  and  papers,  in  the  centre  of  a  large  bar- 
rack room,  fancifully  decorated  with  Indian  arms,  and  tro- 
phies, and  war  dresses,  and  the  skins  of  various  wild  animals, 
and  hung  round  with  pictures  of  Indian  games  and  ceremonies, 
and  scenes  of  war  and  hunting.  In  a  word,  the  captain  was 
beguiling  the  tediousness  of  attendance  at  court  by  an  attempt 
at  authorship ;  and  was  rewriting  and  extending  his  travelling 
notes,  and  making  maps  of  the  regions  he  had  explored.  As 
he  sat  at  the  table,  in  this  curious  apartment,  with  his  high 
bald  head  of  somewhat  foreign  cast,  he  reminded  me  of  some 
of  those  antique  pictures  of  authors  that  I  have  seen  in  old 
Spanish  volumes. 

The  result  of  his  labors  was  a  mass  of  manuscript,  which  he 
subsequently  put  at  my  disposal,  to  fit  it  for  publication  and 
bring  it  before  the  world.  I  found  it  full  of  interesting  details 
of  life  among  the  mountains,  and  of  the  singular  castes  and 
races,  both  white  men  and  red  men,  among  whom  he  had 
sojourned.  It  bore,  too,  throughout,  the  impress  of  his  charac- 
ter, his  bonhomie,  his  kindliness  of  spirit,  and  his  susceptibihty 
to  the  grand  and  beautiful. 

That  manuscript  has  formed  the  staple  of  the  following 
work.  I  have  occasionally  interwoven  facts  and  details, 
gathered  from  various  sources,  especially  from  the  conversa- 
tions and  journals  of  some  of  the  captain's  contemporaries, 
who  were  actors  in  the  scenes  he  describes.  I  have  also  given 
it  a  tone  and  coloring  drawn  from  my  own  obsei-vation  during 
an  excursion  into  the  Indian  country  beyond  the  bounds  of 
civilization ;  as  I  before  observed,  however,  the  work  is  sub- 
stantially the  narrative  of  the  worthy  captain,  and  many  of 
its  most  graphic  passages  are  but  little  varied  from  his  own 
language. 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE.  7 

I  shall  conclude  this  notice  by  a  dedication  which  he  had 
made  of  his  manuscript  to  his  hospitable  brother  in  arnxs,  in 
whose  quarters  I  found  him  occupied  in  his  hterary  labors ;  it 
is  Li  dedication  which,  I  believe,  possesses  the  qualities,  not 
always  found  in  complimentary  documents  of  the  kind,  of 
being  sincere,  and  bcmg  merited. 

TO 

JAMES    HARVEY    HOOK, 

MAJOR,  U.  S.  A., 

WHOSE  JEALOUSY  OP   ITS  HONOR, 

WHOSE     ANXIETY     FOR     ITS     INTEIIESTS, 

AND 

WHOSE    SENSIBILITY   FOR   ITS   WANTS, 

HAVE   ENDEARED   IIIM   TO   THE   SERVICE   A3 

?[i)c   Soltiicr'B   JFriciili ; 

AND  WHOSE  GENERAL  AMENITY,   CONSTANT  CHEERFULNESS, 

DISINTERESTED    HOSPITALITY.    AND   UNWEARIED 

BENEVOLENCE,    ENTITLE   HIM   TO  THE 

STILL   LOFTIER  TITLE  OF 

THE    FRIEND    OF    MAN, 

THIS   WORK   IS  INSCRIBED, 
ETC. 

New  Tm%  1843. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE, 


CONTEl^TS. 


PAQX 

Inthoddctory  Notice  a 


CHAPTER  I. 

State  of  the  Fur  Trade  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — American  enterprise — General 
Ashley  and  his  associates— Sublette,  a  famous  leader  —  yearly  rendezvous 
among  the  mountains— stratagems  and  dangers  of  t)ie  trade — bands  of  trap- 
pers—Indian banditti— Crows  and  Blackfeet — Mountaineers — traders  of  the 
Far  West— character  and  habits  of  the  trapper J7 


CHAPTER  H. 

Departure  from  Fort  Osage— modes  of  transportation— pack-horses-wagons— 
Walker  and  Cerr6— their  characters— buoyant  feelings  on  launching  upon  the 
Prairies— wild  equipments  of  the  trappers— their  gambols  and  antics— differ- 
ence of  character  between  the  American  and  French  trappers— Agency  of  the 
Kansas — General  Clarke — White  Plume,  the  Indian  chief — night  scene  in  a 
trader's  camp — colloquy  between  White  Plume  and  the  captain— bee-hunters 
—their  expeditions— their  feuds  with  the  Indians— bargaining  talent  of  White 
Plume 9( 


CHAPTER  HI. 

Wide  Prairies —vegetable  productions— tabular  hills- slabs  of  sandstone- 
Nebraska,  or  Platte  River — scanty  fare — buffalo  skulls— wagons  turned  into  -^ 
boats— herds  of  buffalo — cliffs  resembling  castles— The  Chimney— Scott's 
Bluflfs— story  connected  with  them — the  Bighorn  or  Ahsalita- its  nature  and 
habits— difference  between  that  and  the  "Woolly  Sheep,"  or  Goat  of  .the 
Mountains 31 


CHAPTER  IV. 

An  alarm— Crow  Indians— their  app>earances— mode  of  approach— their  venge- 
ful errand- their  curiosity— hostility  between  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet— lov- 


10  CONTENTS. 

PAOE 

ing  conduct  of  the  Crows— Larmie's  Fork— first  navigation  of  the  Nebraska — 
Great  elevation  of  the  country— rarity  of  the  atmosphere— its  effect  on  the 
woodwork  of  wagons — Black  Hills — their  wild  and  broken  scenery — Indian 
dogs — Crow  trophies— sterile  and  dreary  country — banks  of  the  Sweet  Water 
— buffalo  hunting — ^adventure  of  Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  cook 36 


CHAPTER  V. 

Magnificent  scenery— Wind  River  Mountains — treasury  of  waters— a  stray  horse 
—an  Indian  trail— trout  streams— the  great  Green  River  valley— an  alarm— a 
band  of  trappers— FonteneUe — his  information — sufferings  of  thirst — encamp- 
ment on  the  Seeds-Ke-Dee — strategy  of  rival  traders — fortification  of  the  camp 
— the  Blackfeet — banditti  of  the  mountains — their  character  and  habits 44 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Sublette  and  his  band — Robert  Campbell — Mr.  Wyeth  and  a  band  of  "  Down- 
Easters" — Yankee  enterprise — Kitzpatrick— his  adventure  with  the  Blackfett 
— a  rendezvous  of  mountaineers — the  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole— an  Indiaa  am- 
buscade— Sublette".s  retui-n 51 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet — Fontenelle'scamp  in  danger — Captain  Bonneville  and 
the  Blackfeet  —  free  trappere  —  their  character,  habits,  ^  dress,  equipments, 
horses— game  fellows  of  the  mountains— theh-  visit  to  the  camp — good  fellow- 
ship and  good  cheer— a  carouse— a  swagger,  a  brawl,  and  a  reconciUation.  ...    61 


CHAPTER  Vin. 

Plans  for  the  winter— Salmon  River— abundance  of  salmon  west  of  the  moun- 
tains— new  arrangements  —  caches— Cerr^'s  detachment— movement  in  Fon- 
teneUe's  camp — departure  of  the  Blackfeet — their  fortunes— Wind  [Mountain 
streams — Buckeye,  the  Delaware  hunter,  and  the  grizzly  bear — bones  of  mur- 
dered travellers— visit  to  Pierre's  Hole— traces  of  the  battle— Nez  Perc6s  In- 
dians—arrival at  Salmon  River 66 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Horses  turned  loose  —  preparations  for  winter  quarters — hungry  times — Nez 
Percys,  their  honesty,  piety,  pacific  habits,  religious  ceremonies— Captain  Bon- 
ne ville's  conversations  with  them— their  love  of  gambling 71 


CHAPTER  X. 

Blackfeet  in  the  horse  prairie— search  after  the  hunters— difficulties  and  dangers 
— a  card  party  in  the  wilderness — the  card  party  interrupted—"  Old  Sledge"  a 
losing  game— visitors  to  the  camp— Iroquois  hunters— hanging-eared  Indians..    75 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Rival  trapping  partiee-MancEuvering— a  desperate  game— Vanderburgh  asdthe 
Blackfeet— deserted  camp— tire— a  dark  defile —an  Indian  ambu.sh— a  fierce 


CONTENTS.  11 

PAGE 

mel6e — fatal  consequences— Fitzpatrick  and  the  brldpe— trappers'  precautions 
— meeting  with  the  Blackfeet— more  fighting— anecdote  of  a  young  Mexican 
and  an  Indian  girl 79 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  winter  camp  in  the  wilderness— medlry  of  trappers,  hunters,  and  Indians — 
scarcity  of  game— new  arrangements  in  the  camp— detnclinicnts  sent  to  a  dis- 
tance—carelessness of  the  Iiuiians  when  encamped— sickness  among  the  In- 
dians—excellent character  of  the  Nez  Percys— the  Captain's  effort  as  a  pacifl- 
cator— a  Nez  Perciis  argument  in  favor  of  war— robberies  by  the  Blackfeet — 
long  suffering  of  the  Nez  Perot's— a  hunter's  Elysium  among  the  mountains- 
more  robberies— the  Captain  preaches  up  a  crusade— the  eflfect  upon  his 
hearers 84 

CH^VPTER  Xra. 
Storj-  of  Kosato,  the  renegade  Blackfoot 92 

CHAl^ER  XIV. 

The  party  enters  the  mountain  gorge— a  wild  fastness  among  the  hills— moun- 
tain mutton— peace  and  plenty — the  amorous  trai)per— a  piebald  wedding— a 
free  trapper's  wife — her  gala  equipments— Christmas  in  the  wilderness 95 

CHAITER  XV. 

A  hunt  after  hunters— hungry  times— a  voracious  repast— wintry  weather— 
Godin's  River — splendid  winter  scene  on  the  great  lava  plain  of  Snake  River- 
severe  travelling  and  tramping  in  the  snow— Manueuvres  of  a  solitary  Indian 
horseman — encampment  on  Snake  River- Banneck  Indians— the  horse  chief— 
his  charmed  life 101 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

llisadventures  of  Matthieu  and  his  partj-— return  to  the  caches  at  Salmon  River 
—battle  between  Nez  Pcrcfis  and  Blackfeet— heroism  of  a  Nez  Perc6s  woman 
— enrolled  among  the  braves 107 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Opening  of  the  caches— detachments  of  Cerr»^  and  Hodgkiss— Salmon  River 
Mountains- superstition  of  an  Indian  trapper— (iodins  River— preparations 
for  trapping— an  alarm— an  intcri-uption- a  rival  baud— phenomena  of  Snake 
River  plain— vast  clefts  and  chasms— ingulfed  streams— sublime  scenery— a 
grand  buffalo  hunt 118 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Meeting  with  Hodgkiss— misfortunes  of  the  Nez  Percys— schemes  of  Kosato.  the 
renegade — his  foray  into  the  horse  prairie— invasion  of  Blackfeet — Blue  John 
and  his  Forlorn  Hope— their  generous  enterprise— their  fate— consternation 
and  despair  of  the  village— solenm  obsequies — attempt  at  Indian  trade — Hud- 
son's Bay  Company's  monopoly— arrangements  for  autumn— breaking  up  of 
an  encampment 117 


12  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

PAGE 

Precautions  lu  dangerous  defiles— trappers'  mode  of  defence  on  a  prairie — a 
mysterious  visitor— arrival  in  Green  River  Valley— adventures  of  the  detach- 
ments—the forlorn  partisan— his  tale  of  disasters 124 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Gathering  in  Green  River  "Valley— visitings  and  feastings  of  leaders— rough  was- 
sailing among  the  trappers — wild  blades  of  the  mountains — Indian  belles- 
potency  of  bright  beads  and  red  blankets— arrival  of  supplies— revelry  and  ex- 
travagance— mad  wolves— the  lost  Indian 129 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville— the  great  Salt  Lake— expedition  to  explore  it- 
preparations  for  a  journey  to  the  Bighorn 133 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Crow  country— the  Crow  paradise— habits  of  the  Crows— anecdotes  of  Rose, 
the  renegade  white  man— his  flglits  with  the  Blackfeet— his  elevation— his 
death — Arapooish,  the  Crow  chief —his  eagle —adventure  of  Robert  Campbell 
— honor  among  the  Crows 185 


CHAPTER  XXni. 

Departure  from  Green  River  Valley— Popo  Agie— its  course— the  rivers  into 
which  it  runs— scenery  of  the  bluffs— the  great  Jar  Spring— volcanic  tracts  in 
the  Crow  country— burning  mountain  of  Powder  River— Sulphur  Springs — 
hidden  fires — Colter's  Hell— Wind  River— Campbell's  party- Fitzpatrick  and 
his  trappers— Captain  Stewart,  an  amateur  traveller— Nathaniel  Wyeth— anec- 
dotes of  his  expedition  to  the  Far  West — disaster  of  Campbell's  party— a  union 
of  bands — the  bad  pass — the  Rapids — departure  of  Fitzpatrick — embarkation 
of  Peltries— Wyeth  and  his  bull  boat — adventures  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  the 
Bighorn  Mountains— adventures  in  the  plains— traces  of  Indians— travelling 
precautions— dangers  of  making  a  smoke— the  rendezvous 141 


CHAPTER  XXTV. 

Adventures  of  'a  party  of  ten— the  Balaamite  mule— a  dead  point— the  mysteri- 
ous elks— a  night  attack— a  retreat— travelling  under  an  alarm— a  joyful  meet- 
ing—adventures of  the  other  party— a  decoy  elk— retreat  to  an  island— a  sav- 
age dance  of  triumph— arrival  at  Wind  River 148 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Captain  Bonneville  sets  out  for  Green  River  Valley— journey  up  the  Popo  Agie 
—buffaloes— the  staring  white  bears— the  smoke— the  Warm  Springs— attempt 
to  traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains— the  great  slope— mountain  dells  and 

'  chasms— crystal  lakes— ascent  of  a  snowy  peak— sublime  prospect^ — a  pano- 
rama—" Les  dfgnes  de  Pitie,"  or  Wild  Men  of  the  Mountains IS"* 


CONTENTS.  13 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

PAOK 

A  retrograde  move— Channel  of  a  mountain  torrent— Alpine  scenery— cascades 
—beaver  valleys— beavers  at  worl£— their  architecture— their  modes  of  felling 
trees— mode  of  trapping  the  beaver— contests  of  skill— a  beaver  "  up  to  trap  " 
— arrival  at  the  Cireen  River  caches 158 

CHAPTER  XXVIL 

Route  towards  Wind  River— dangerous  neighborhood— alarms  and  precautions 
—a  sham  encampment— apparition  of  an  Indian  spy— midnight  move— a 
mountain  deflle— the  Wind  River  valley— tracking  a  party— deserted  camps 
—symptoms  of  Ciows— meeting  of  comrades— a  trapper  entrapped— Crow 
pleasanti-y— Crow  spies— a  decampment- return  to  Green  River  Valley- 
meeting  with  Pitzpatricks  party— their  adventures  among  the  Crows— ortho- 
dox Crows 163 


CHAPTER  XXVm. 

A  region  of  natural  curiosities— the  plain  of  white  clay— Hot  Springs— the  Beer 
Spring— departure  to  seek  the  trappers— plain  of  Portneuf-lava— chasms  and 
gullifs- Banneck  Indians— their  hunt  of  the  buffalo— hunters'  feast— trencher 
hei-oes- bullying  of  an  absent  foe— the  damp  comrade— Indian  spy— meeting 
with  Hodgkiss— his  adventures— Poordevil  Indians— triumph  of  the  Bannecks 
— Blackfeet  policy  in  war 171 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  camp  at  the  Portneuf — fine  springs — the  Banneck  Indians— their  honesty 
— Captain  Bonneville  prepares  for  an  expedition — Christmas- the  American 
Falls— wild  scenery— Fishing  Falls— Snake  Indians — scenery  of  the  Bnineau— 
view  of  the  volcanic  coimtry  from  a  moimtain — I'owder  River— Shoshokoes, 
or  Root  Diggers— their  character,  habits,  habitations,  dogs— vanity  at  its  last 
shift 178 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Temperature  of  the  climate— Root  Dicgers  on  horse— an  Indian  guide— moun- 
**  tain  prospects — the  Grand  Rond— difficulties  on  Snake  River— a  scramble  over 
the  Bhie  Mountains— sufferings  from  himger— prospect  of  the  Immabab  Val- 
ley— the  exhausted  traveller 186 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Progress  in  the  Valley- an  Indian  cavalier— the  Captain  falls  into  a  lethargy- 
A  Nez  Percys  partriarch— hospitable  treatment — the  bald  hend  — bargaining 
—value  of  an  old  plaid  cloak— the  family  horse— the  cost  of  an  Indian  present  192 


CHAPTER  XXXn. 

Nez  Perc'^s  camp— a  chief  with  a  hard  name— the  big  hearts  of  the  East— hos- 
pitable treatment — the  Indian  guides— myst«rious  councils— the  loquacious 


14  CONTENTS. 


PAQB 

chief— Indian  tomb— fjrand  Indian  reception— an  Indian  feast— town-criers— 
honesty  of  the  Nez  Perc6s— the  Captain's  attempt  at  healing 198 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Scenery  of  the  Way-Lee-Way— a  substitute  for  tobacco— sublime  scenery  of 
Snake  River— the  garrulous  old  chief  and  his  cousin — a  Nez  Percys  meeting — 
a  stolen  skin— a  scapegoat  dog— mysterious  conferences— the  little  chief —his 
hospitaUty — the  Captain's  account  of  the  United  States — his  healing  skill 205 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah— its  commander— Indians  in  its  neighborhood — exertions 
of  Mr.  Pambrune  for  their  improvement — religion — code  of  laws — range  of  the 
lower  Nez  Perces — Camash  and  other  roots — Nez  Percys  horses — preparations 
for  departure— refusal  of  supplies — departure— a  laggard  and  glutton 21S 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

The  uninvited  guest — free  and  easy  manners — salutary  jokes— a  prodigal  son — 
exit  of  the  glutton — a  sudden  change  in  fortune — danger  of  a  visit  to  poor 
relations — plucking  of  a  prosperous  man— a  vagabond  toilet— a  substitute  for 
the  very  fine  horse— hard  travelling— the  uninvited  guest  and  the  patriarchal 
colt — a  beggar  on  horseback — a  catastrophe — exit  of  the  merry  vagabond 216 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

The  difficult  mountain — a  smoke  and  consultation— the  Captain's  speech — an 
icy  turnpike— danger  of  a  false  step— arrival  on  Snake  River— return  to  Port- 
neuf— meeting  of  comrades 222 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  for  the  rendezvous— a  war  party  of  Blackfeet^a  mock  bustle— sham 
fights  at  night— warlike  precautions— dangers  of  a  night  attack-a  panic 
among  horses— cautious  march— the  Beer  Springs— a  mock  carousal— skir- 
mishing with  buffaloes— a  buffalo  bail^arrival  at  the  rendezvous— meeting 
of  various  bands 227 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Plan  of  the  Salt  Lake  expedition— great  sandy  deserts— sufferings  from  thirst 
— Ofcden's  River— trails  and  smoke  of  lurking  Indians— thefts  at  night  -a  trap- 
per's revenue — alarms  of  a  guilty  conscience— a  murderous  victory — Califor- 
nian  Jlouutains— plains  alon-g  the  Pacific— Arrival  at  Monterey — accmnit  of 
the  place  and  neighborhood- Lower  California — its  extent— the  peninsula — 
soil— climate— production— its  settlement  by  the  Jesuits— their  sway  over  the 
Indians — their  expulsion— nuns  of  a  missionary  establishment— sublime  scen- 
ery— Upper  California — missions — their  power  and  policy — reso'i^'ep  of  the 
country — designs  of  foreign  nations 231 


CONTENTS.  15 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

PAOB 

Gay  life  at  Monterey— Mexican  horsemen— a  bold  dragoon— use  of  the  lasso— 
Vaqueros— noosing  a  bear— flt^lit  between  a  bull  and  a  beai-— departure  from 
3Iouterey— Indian  horse-stealers- outrages  committed  by  the  travellers- 
indignation  of  Captain  Bonneville 238 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Travellers'  tales— Indian  lurkers— prognostics  of  Buckeye — signs  and  portents — 
the  Medicine  wolf — an  alarm— an  ambush— the  captured  provant— triumph  of 
Buckeye.— arrival  of  supplies--grand  carouse — arrangements  for  the  year- 
Mr.  Wyeth  and  his  new-levied  band S42 


CHAPTER  XLI. 
A  voyage  in  a  buU  boat 846 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  for  the  Columbia— advance  of  Wyeth — efforts 
to  keep  the  lead — Hudson's  Bay  party— a  junketing — a  delectable  beverage — 
honey  and  alcohol— high  carousing— the  Canadian  "  bon  vivant"— a  cache— 
a  rapid  move— Wyeth  and  his  plans— his  travelUiig  companions — buffalo  hunt- 
ing—more  conviviality — an  interruption 259 

CHAPTER  XLIH. 

A  rapid  march— a  cloud  of  dust— wild  horsemen-"  High  jinks  "■- horse-racing 
and  rille  shooting— the  came  of  liand— the  Ashing  season— mode  of  fishing- 
table  lands— salmon  fishers- the  Captain's  visit  to  an  Indian  lodge— the  Indian 
gu-1— the  pocket  mirror— supper— troubles  of  an  evil  conscience  2C4 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Outfit  of  a  trapper- risks  to  which  he  is  subjected — partnership  of  trappei"s— 
enmity  of  Indians — distant  smoke— a  country  on  fire — Gun  Creek — Grand 
Rond— fine  pastures— perplexities  in  a  smoky  country — conflagration  of 
forests .  2G9 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Skynses — their  traffic — hunting— food— horses — a  horse-race — devotional 
feeling  of  the  Skynses,  Nez  PercCs.  and  Flatheads — prayers — exhortations — 
a  preacher  on  horseback — effect  of  religion  on  the  manners  of  the  tribes — 
a  new  light 278 

CHAPTER  XTA^. 

Scarcity  in  the  cnmp — refusal  of  supplies  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company— con- 
duct of  the  Indians- a  hungry  retreat— John  Day's  River— the  Blue  Moim- 


16  CONTENTS. 


PAQB 

tains— salmon  fishing  on  Snake  River— messengers  from  the  Crow  country- 
Bear  River  Valley— immense  immigration  of  Buffalo— danger  of  buffalo  hunt- 
ing—a wounded  Indian— Eutaw  Indians — a  "surround  "  of  antelopes 277 


CHAPTER  XLVn. 

A.  festive  winter— conversion  of  the  Shoshonies— visit  of  two  free  trappers — 
gayety  in  the  camp— a  touch  of  the  tender  passion — the  reclaimed  squaw — 
an  Indian  fine  lady— an  elopement— a  pursuit— market  value  of  a  bad  wife. ..  283 


CHAPTER  XLVUI. 

Breaking  up  of  winter  quarters— move  to  Green  River— a  trapper  and  his  rifle — 
an  arrival  in  camp — a  free  trapper  and  his  squaw  in  distress— story  of  a  Black- 
foot  beUe 287 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

Rendezvous  at  Wind  River— campaign  of  Montero  and  his  brigade  in  the  Crow 
country— wars  between  the  Crovis  and  the  Blackfeet— death  of  Arapooish— 
Blackfeet  lurkers— sagacity  of  the  horse— dependence  of  the  hunter  on  his 
horse— return  to  the  settlements 291 


APPENDIX. 

Nathaniel  J.  "Wyeth  and  the  trade  of  the  Far  West 298 

Wreck  of  a  Japanese  Junk  on  the  Northwest  Coast 300 


Adventures  of  Captain  Bonneville. 


CHAPTER  I. 

STATE  OF  THE  FUR  TRADE  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS— AJIERI- 
CAN  ENTERPRISES— GENERAL  ASHLEY  AND  HIS  ASSOCIATES— 
SUBLETTE,  A  FAIMOUS  LEADER— YEARLY  RENDEZVOUS  AMONQ 
THE  MOUNTAINS — STRATAGEMS  AND  DANGERf  OF  THE  TRADE — 
BANDS  OF  TRAPPERS— INDIAN  BANDITTI — CROWS  AND  BLACK- 
FEET — MOUNTAINEERS — TRADERS  OF  THE  FAR  AVEST— CHARAC- 
TER AND   HABITS    OF  THE   TRAPPER. 

In  a  recent  Avork  we  have  given  on  acconnt  of  the  grand  enter- 
prise of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Aster,  to  estabhsh  an  Anioricnn  empo- 
riuni  for  the  fur  trade  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Columbia,  orOi'cgon 
River;  of  the  failure  of  that  enterprise  through  the  capture  of 
Astoria  by  the  British,  in  1814;  and  of  the  way  in  which  the 
control  of  the  trade  of  the  Columbia  and  its  dependencies  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Northwest  Compony.  We  have  stated, 
Hkewise,  the  unfortimate  sii]'>ineness  of  the  American  Govern- 
ment, in  neglecting  the  application  of  Mr.  Astor  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  American  flag,  and  a  small  military  force,  to  enable 
1  im  to  reinstate  himself  in  the  possession  of  Astoria  at  the  re- 
turn of  peace;  when  the  post  was  formallj- given  up  by  the 
British  Government,  though  still  occupied  by  the  Northwest 
Company.  By  that  supiueness  the  sovereignty  in  the  country 
has  been  virtually  lost  to  the  United  States ;  and  it  will  cost 
both  governments  much  trouble  and  difficulty  to  settle  matters 
on  that  just  and  rightful  footing,  on  which  they  would  readily 
have  been  placed,  had  the  proposition  of  Mr.  Astor  been  a4;- 
tcnded  to  We  shall  now  state  a  few  particulars  of  £ub.se(]ucnt 
event?,  6<  as  to  lead  the  reader  up  to  the  period  of  x^'hidi  we 


18  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

are  about  to  treat,  and  to  prepare  Wm  for  the  circumstances  of 
our  narrative. 

In  conseiiuence  of  the  apathy  and  neglect  of  the  American 
Government,  Mr.  Astor  abandoned  all  thoughts  of  regaining 
Astoria,  and  made  no  further  attempt  to  extend  his  enterprises 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains;  and  the  Northwest  Company 
considered  themselves  the  lords  of  the  country.  They  did  not 
Icng  enjoy  unmolested  the  sway  which  they  had  somewhat  sur- 
reptitiously attained.  A  fierce  competition  ensued  between  them 
and  their  old  rivals,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  wliich  was 
carried  oii  at  great  cost  and  sacrifice,  and  occasionally  with 
the  loss  of  life.  It  ended  in  the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners  of 
the  Northwest  Company ;  and  the  merging  of  the  relics  of  that 
establisliment,  in  1821,  in  the  rival  association.  From  thau 
time,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  enjoyed  a  monopoly  of  the 
Indian  trade  from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  for  a  considerable  extent  north  and  south.  They 
removed  their  emporium  from  Artoria  to  Fort  Vancouver,  a 
strong  post  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia  River,  about  sixty 
miles  from  its  mouth;  whence  they  furnished  their  interior 
posts,  and  sent  forth  their  brigades  of  trappers. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  formed  a  vast  barrier  between  them 
and  the  United  States,  and  their  stern  and  awful  defiles,  their 
rugged  valleys,  and  the  great  western  plains  watered  by  their 
rivers,  remained  almost  a  terra  incognita  to  the  American 
trapper.  The  difficulties  experienced  in  1808,  by  Mr.  Henry,  of 
the  Missouri  Company,  the  first  American  who  trapped  upon 
the  head- waters  of  the  Columbia ;  and  the  frightful  hardships 
sustained  by  Wilson  P.  Hunt,  Ramsay  Crooks,  Robert  Stuart, 
and  other  intrepid  Astorians,  in  their  ill-fated  expeditions 
across  the  mountains,  appeared  for  a  time  to  check  all  further 
enterprise  in  that  direction.  The  American  traders  contented 
themselves  with  following  up  the  head  branches  of  the  Mis- 
souri, the  Yellowstone,  and  other  rivers  and  streams  on  the 
Atlantic  side  of  the  mountains,  but  forbore  to  attempt  those 
great  snow-crowned  sierras. 

One  of  the  first  to  revive  these  tramontane  expeditions  was 
General  Ashley,  of  ]\Iissouri,  a  man  whose  courage  and  achieve- 
ments in  the  prosecution  of  his  enterprises  have  rendered  him 
famous  in  the  Far  West.  In  conjunction  with  Mr.  Henry,  al- 
read^r  mi^ntioned,  he  establishod  a  post  on  the  banks  of  the 
Yellowstone  River,  in  182i^,  and  in  the  following  year  pushed  a 
resolute  band  of  trappera  across  the  mountains  to  the  banks  of 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  19 

the  Green  River  or  Colorado  of  the  West,  often  known  by  the 
iiidiau  name  of  th--^  Sceds-ke-deo  Agie.*  This  attempt  was  fol- 
lowed up  and  sustidnod  by  others,  until  in  1825  a  footmg  was 
recured,  and  a  co^aplete  system  of  trapping  organized  beyond 
the  moimtains. 

It  is  difficult  to  do  justice  to  the  courage,  fortitude,  and  per- 
severance of  the  pioneers  of  the  fur  trade,  who  conducted  tlieso 
early  expeditions,  and  fii-st  broke  their  way  thi-ough  a  wilder-' 
ness  where  everytliing  was  calculated  to  deter  and  dismay 
them.  They  had  to  traverse  the  most  dreary  and  desolate 
mountains,  and  barren  and  trackless  wastes,  uninhabited  by 
man,  or  occasionally  infested  by  predatory  and  cruel  savages. 
They  knew  nothing  of  the  country  beyond  the  verge  of  their 
horizon,  and  had  to  gather  information  as  they  wandeio.... 
They  beheld  volcanic  plains  stretching  around  them,  and 
ranges  of  moimtains  piled  up  to  the  clouds  and  glistening  mth 
eternal  frost;  but  knew  nothmg  of  their  defiles,  nor  how  they 
were  to  be  penetrated  or  traversed.  They  launched  themselves 
in  frail  canoes  on  rivers,  without  knowing  whither  their  swift 
currents  would  carry  them,  or  what  rocks,  and  shoals,  and 
rapids,  they  might  encounter  in  their  course.  They  had  to  be 
continually  on  the  alert,  too,  against  the  mountain  tribes,  who 
be.set  every  defde,  laid  ambuscades  in  their  path,  or  attacked 
them  in  their  night  encampments;  so  that,  of  the  hardy  bands 
of  trappers  that  first  entered  into  these  regions,  three  fifths  are 
said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  savage  foes. 

In  this  wild  and  wailike  school  a  number  of  leaders  have 
spinmg  up,  originally  in  the  employ,  subsequently  partners  of 
Ashley;  among  these  we  may  mention  Smith,  Fitzpatrick, 
Bridger,  Robert  Campbell,  and  AVilliam  Sublette :  whose  adven- 
tures and  exploits  partake  of  the  wildest  spirit  of  romance. 
The  association  commenced  by  General  Ashley  undenvcnt  va- 
rious modifications.  Tliat  gentleman  having  acquired  liUiH- 
cient  fortune,  sold  out  his  interest  and  retired;  and  the  lea  ling 
spirit  that  succeeded  him  was  Captain  William  Sublette ;  a  man 
worthy  of  note,  as  his  name  has  become  renowned  in  frontier 
story.  He  is  a  native  of  Kentucky,  and  of  game  descent; 
his  maternal  grandfather.  Colonel  Wheatley,  a  companion  of 
Boone,  having  been  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  West,  celebrated 
in  Indian  warfare,  and  killed  in  one  of  the  contests  of  the 
"  Bloody  Ground."  We  sliall  frequently  have  occasion  to  speak 

*  i.e.  Ths  Piairi©  IIou  Rivor.    Agie  in  the  Crow  language  Eignifles  river. 


20  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNBYILLE. 

of  tWs  Sublette,  and  al^rays  to  the  credit  of  his  game  qualities. 
In  1830,  the  association  took  the  name  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Fur  Company,  of  wliich  Captain  Sublette  and  Eobert  Campbell 
were  prominent  members. 

In  the  meantime,  the  success  of  this  company  attracted  the 
attention  and  excited  the  emulation  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany and  brought  them  once  more  into  the  field  of  their  ancient 
enterprise.  Mr.  Astor,  the  founder  of  the  association,  had  re- 
tired fi'om  busy  life,  and  the  concerns  of  the  company  were 
ably  managed  by  Mr.  Eamsay  Crooks,  of  Snake  River  renown, 
who  still  oflBciates  as  its  president.  A  competition  immediate- 
ly ensued  between  the  two  companies,  for  the  trade  with  the 
mountain  tribes,  and  the  trapping  of  the  head-waters  of  the 
Columbia  and  the  other  great  tributaries  of  the  Pacific.  Be- 
side the  regular  operations  of  these  formidable  rivals,  there 
have  been  from  time  to  time  desultory  enterprises,  or  rather 
experiments,  of  minor  associations,  or  of  adventurous  indi- 
viduals, beside  roving  bands  of  independent  trappers,  who 
either  hunt  for  themselves,  or  engage  for  a  single  season  in  the 
service  of  one  or  other  of  the  main  companies. 

The  consequence  is,  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  ulte- 
rior regions,  from  the  Russian  possessions  in  the  north  down  to 
the  Spanish  settlements  of  California,  have  been  traversed  and 
ransacked  in  every  direction  by  bands  of  huntere  and  Indian 
traders;  so  that  there  is  scarcely  a  mountain  pass,  or  defile, 
that  is  not  known  and  threaded  in  their  restless  migrations, 
nor  a  nameless  stream  that  is  not  haunted  by  the  lonely 
trapper. 

The  American  fur  companies  keep  no  established  posts  beyond 
the  mountains.  Everything  there  is  regulated  by  resident  part- 
ners; that  is  to  say,  partners  who  reside  in  the  tramontane 
country,  but  who  move  about  from  place  to  place,  either  with 
Indian  tribes,  whose  traffic  they  wish  to  monopoli::c,  or  with 
main  bodies  of  their  own  men,  whom  they  e:nploy  in  trading 
and  trapping.  In  the  r meantime,  they  detach  bands,  or  "bri- 
gades" as  they  are  tei-med,  of  trappers  in  various  cTirecticn.:,  as- 
signing to  each  a  portion  of  country  as  p  hunting  or  trapping 
ground.  In  the  months  of  June  and  July,  when  there  is  an  in- 
terval between  the  hunting  seasons,  a  c:eneral  rendezvous  is 
held,  at  some  designated  place  in  the  mountains,  where  the  af- 
fairs of  the  past  year  are  settled  by  the  resident  partners,  and 
the  plans  for  the  following  year  axranged. 

To  tliiG  rendez%'ouB  repair  the  various  brigades  of  trappers 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  21 

from  their  widely  separated  huntinp:  prrounds,  bringing  in  tho 
products  of  their  year's  campaign,  liither  also  repair  the  In- 
dian tribes  accustomed  to  traffic  their  peltries  with  the  com- 
pany. Bands  of  free  trappers  resort  hither  also,  to  sell  the 
furs  they  have  collected ;  or  to  engage  their  services  for  the 
next  hunting  season. 

To  this  rendezvous  the  company  sends  annually  a  convoy  of 
supplies  from  its  establishment  on  the  Atlantic  frontier,  under 
the  guidance  of  some  experienced  partner  or  officer.  On  tho 
arrival  of  this  convoy,  the  resident  partner  at  the  rendezvous 
depends,  to  set  all  his  next  year's  machinery  in  motion. 

Now  as  the  rival  companies  keep  a  vigilant  eye  upon  each 
other,  and  are  anxious  to  discover  each  other's  plans  and  move- 
ments, they  generally  contrive  to  hold  their  annual  assein- 
blages  at  no  great  distance  apart.  An  eager  competition  ex- 
ists also  between  their  respective  convoys  of  supphes,  which 
shall  first  reach  its  place  of  rendezvous.  For  this  purpose  they 
set  off  with  the  first  appearance  of  gi-ass  on  the  Atlantic  fron- 
tier, and  push  with  all  diligence  for  the  mountains.  The  com- 
pany that  can  first  open  its  tempting  supplies  of  coffee,  tobac- 
co, ammunition,  scarlet  cloth,  blankets,  bright  shawls,  and 
glittering  trinkets,  has  the  greatest  chance  to  get  all  the  peltries 
and  furs  of  the  Indians  and  free  trappers,  and  to  engage  their 
services  for  the  next  season.  It  is  able,  also,  to  fit  out  and  dis- 
patch its  own  trappers  the  soonest,  so  as  to  get  the  start  of  its 
competitors,  and  to  have  the  first  dash  into  the  himting  and 
trapping  grounds. 

A  new  species  of  strategy  has  sprung  out  of  this  hunting  and 
trapping  competition.  The  constant  study  of  the  rival  bands 
is  to  forestall  and  outwit  each  other ;  to  supplant  each  other  in 
the  good-wUl  and  custom  of  the  Indian  tribes ;  to  cross  each 
other's  plans;  to  mislead  each  other  as  to  routes;  in  a  word, 
next  to  his  own  advantage,  the  study  of  the  Indian  trader  is  the 
disadvantage  of  his  competitor. 

The  influx  of  this  wandering  trade  has  had  its  effects  on  the 
habits  of  the  mountain  tribes.  They  have  found  the  trapping 
of  the  beaver  their  most  profitable  species  of  hunting;  and  the 
traffic  with  the  white  man  has  opened  to  them  sources  of  lux- 
ury of  which  they  previously  had  no  idea.  The  introduction 
of  firearms  has  rendered  them  more  successful  hunters,  but  at 
the  same  time  more  formidable  foes;  some  of  them  incorrigibly 
savage  and  warlike  in  their  nature  have  found  the  expeditions 
of  the  fur  traders  grand  objects  of  profitable  adventure.     To . 


22  ABVENTUllES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

waylay  and  harass  a  band  of  trappers  with  their  pack-horscsr, 
when  embarrassed  in  the  rujrged  defiles  of  the  mountains,  has 
become  as  favorite  an  exploit  with  these  Indians  as  the  plimdor 
of  a  caravan  to  the  Arab  of  the  desert.  The  Crows  and  Black- 
feet,  who  were  such  terrors  in  the  path  of  the  early  adventurers 
to  Astoria,  still  continue  their  predatory  habits,  but  seem  to 
have  brought  them  to  greater  system.  They  know  the  routes 
and  resorts  of  the  trappers;  where  to  waylay  them  on  their 
journeys;  where  to  find  them  in  the  hunting  seasons,  and 
where  to  hover  about  them  in  winter  quarters.  The  life  of  a 
trapper,  therefore,  is  a  perpetual  state  militant,  and  he  must 
sleep  with  his  weapons  in  his  hands. 

A  new  order  of  trappers  and  traders,  also,  has  grown  out  of 
this  system  of  things.  In  the  old  times  of  the  great  North- 
west Company,  when  the  trade  in  furs  was  pursued  chiefly 
about  the  lakes  and  rivers,  the  expeditions  were  carried  on  in 
batteaux  and  canoes.  The  voyageurs  or  boatmen  were  the 
rank  and  file  in  the  service  of  the  trader,  and  even  the  hardy 
"men  of  the  north,"  those  great  rufflers  and  game  birds,  were 
faui  to  be  paddled  from  point  to  point  of  their  migrations. 

A  totally  different  class  has  now  sprung  up;— "the  Moun- 
taineers," the  traders  and  trappers  that  scale  the  vast  moun- 
tain chains,  and  pursue  their  hazardous  vocations  amid  their 
wild  recesses.  They  move  from  place  to  place  on  horseback. 
The  equestrian  exercises,  therefore,  in  which  they  are  en- 
gaged, the  nature  of  the  countries  they  traverse,  vast  plains 
and  mountains,  pure  and  exhilarating  in  atmospheric  qualities, 
seem  to  make  them  physically  and  mentally  a  more  lively  and 
mercurial  race  than  the  fin-  traders  and  trappers  of  former 
days,  the  self -vaunting  "men  of  the  north."  A  man  who  be- 
strides a  horse  must  be  essentially  different  from  a  man  who 
cowers  in  a  canoe.  We  find  them,  accordingly,  hardy,  lithe, 
vigorous,  and  active ;  extravagant  in  word,  and  thought,  and 
deed;  heedless  of  hardship;  daring  of  danger;  prodigal  of  the 
present,  and  thoughtless  of  the  future. 

A  difference  is  to  be  perceived  even  between  these  mountain 
hmiters  and  those  of  the  lower  regions  along  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri.  The  latter,  generally  French  Creoles,  live  comfor- 
tably in  cabins  and  log-huts,  well  sheltered  from  the  inclem- 
encies of  the  seasons.  They  are  within  the  reach  of  frequent 
Bupphes  from  the  settlements ;  their  life  is  comparatively  free 
from  danger,  and  from  most  of  the  vicissitudes  of  the  upper 
wilderness.    The  consequence  is,  that  they  are  less  hardy,  self- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  liON NEVILLE.  23 

dopendont  and  game-spirited,  than  tbe  mountaineer.  If  tho 
latter  by  chance  comes  among  them  on  his  way  to  and  from 
the  settlements,  he  is  hke  a  game-cock  among  the  common 
roosters  of  the  poultry-j-ard.  Accustonaed  to  live  in  tents,  or 
to  bivouac  in  the  open  air,  he  despises  the  comforts  and  is  im- 
patient of  the  confinement  of  the  log-house.  If  his  meal  is 
not  ready  in  season,  he  takes  his  rilie,  hies  to  the  forest  or 
prairie,  shoots  his  own  game,  lights  his  fire,  and  cooks  his 
repast.  With  his  horse  and  his  rille,  he  is  independent  of  tho 
Avorld,  and  spurns  at  all  its  restraints.  The  very  superintend- 
ents at  the  lower  posts  will  not  put  him  to  mess  with  the  com- 
mon men,  the  hirelings  of  the  establishment,  but  treat  him  as 
something  superior. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  of  men  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
says  Captain  Bonneville,  who  led  a  life  of  more  continued  ex- 
ei'tion,  peril,  and  excitement,  and  who  are  more  enamored  of 
their  occupations,  than  the  free  trappers  of  the  West.  No  toil, 
no  danger,  no  privation  can  turn  the  trapper  from  his  pursuit. 
His  passionate  excitement  at  times  resembles  a  mania.  In  vain 
may  the  most  vigilant  and  cruel  savages  beset  his  path;  in 
vain  may  rocks  and  preeijiices,  and  wintry  torrents  oppose  his 
progress ;  let  but  a  single  track  of  a  beaver  meet  liis  eye,  and 
he  forgets  all  dangers  and  defies  all  difficulties.  At  tunes,  he 
may  be  seen  with  his  traps  on  his  shoulder,  buffeting  his  way 
across  rapid  streams,  amid  floating  blocks  of  ice;  at  other 
times,  he  is  to  be  found  with  his  traps  swung  on  his  back 
climbing  the  most  rugged  mountains,  scaling  or  descending 
the  most  frightful  precipices,  searching,  by  routes  inaccessible 
to  the  horse,  and  never  before  trodden  by  white  man,  for 
springs  and  lakes  unknown  to  his  comrades,  and  where  he 
may  meet  with  liis  favorite  game.  Such  is  the  mountaineer, 
the  hardy  trapper  of  the  West;  and  such,  as  we  have  slightly 
sketched  it,  is  the  wild,  Robin  H(jod  kind  of  life,  with  all  its 
strange  and  motley  populace,  now  existing  in  full  vigor  among 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Having  thus  given  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  actual  state  of 
the  fur  trade  in  the  interior  of  our  vast  continent,  and  made 
him  acquainted  with  the  wild  chivalry  of  tho  mountains,  we  will 
no  longer  delay  the  introduction  of  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
band  into  this  field  of  their  enterpi'ise.  but  launch  them  at 
once  upon  the  perilous  plains  of  the  Far  West. 


24  ADVENTURES  OF  0 ATTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  n. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  FORT  OSAGE — MODES  OF  TRANSPORTATION- 
PACK-HORSES — WAGONS — WALKER  AND  CERRE  ;  THEIR  CHAR- 
ACTERS— BUOYANT  FEELINGS  ON  LAUNCHING  UPON  THE  PRAI- 
RIES— WILD  EQUIPMENTS  OF  THE  TRAPPERS — THEIR  GAMBOLS 
AND  ANTICS— DIFFERENCE  OF  CHARACTER  BETWEEN  THE  AMER- 
ICAN AND  FRENCH  TRAPPERS  —  AGENCY  OF  THE  KANSAS — 
GENERAL  CLARKE — WHITE  PLUME,  THE  KANSAS  CHIEF— NIGHT 
SCENE  IN  A  trader's  CAMP— COLLOQUY  BETWEEN  WHITE  PLUME 
AND  THE  CAPTAIN— BEE-HUNTERS— THEIR  EXPEDITIONS — THEIR 
FEUDS  WITH  THE  INDIANS — BARGAINING  TALENT  OF  WIUTE 
PLUME. 

It  was  on  the  first  of  May,  1832,  that  Captain  Bonneville 
took  his  departure  from  the  frontier  post  of  Fort  Osage,  on  the 
Missouri.  He  had  enlisted  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  ten 
men,  most  of  whom  had  been  in  the  Indian  country,  and  some 
of  whom  were  experienced  hunters  and  trappei*s.  Fort  Osage, 
and  other  places  on  the  borders  of  the  western  wilderness, 
abound  with  characters  of  the  kind,  ready  for  any  expedition. 

The  ordinary  mode  of  transportation  in  these  great  inland 
expeditions  of  the  fur  traders  is  on  mules  and  pack-horses ;  but 
Captain  Bonneville  substituted  wagons.  Though  he  was  to 
travel  through  a  trackless  wilderness,  yet  the  greater  part  of 
his  route  would  he  across  open  plains,  destitute  of  forests,  and 
where  wheel  carriages  can  pass  in  every  direction.  The  chief 
difficulty  occurs  in  passing  the  deep  ravines  cut  through  the 
prairies  by  streams  and  winter  torrents.  Here  it  is  often 
necessary  to  dig  a  road  down  the  banks,  and  to  make  bridges 
for  the  wagons.  ^ 

In  transporting  his  baggage  in  vehicles  of  this  kind.  Captain 
Bonneville  thought  he  would  save  the  great  delay  caused  every 
morning  by  packing  the  horses,  and  the  labor  of  unpacking  in 
the  evening.  Fewer  horses  also  would  be  required,  and  less  risk 
incurred  of  their  wandering  away,  or  being  frightened  or  car- 
ried off  by  the  Indians.  The  wagons,  also,  would  be  more 
easily  defended,  and  might  form  a  Sind  of  fortification  in  case 
of  attack  m  the  open  prairies.      A  train  of  twenty  wagons, 


I 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  2^ 

drawn  by  oxen,  or  by  four  mules  or  horses  eaxjh,  and  laden 
with  merchandise,  ammunition,  and  provisions,  were  disposed 
in  two  columns  in  the  centre  of  the  party,  which  was  equally 
divided  into  a  van  and  a  rear-guard.  As  sub-leaders  or  lieu- 
tenants in  his  expedition.  Captain  Bonneville  had  made  choice 
oC  Mr.  I.  R.  Walker  and  Mr.  M.  S.  Cerre.  The  former  was  n 
native  of  Tennessee,  about  six  feet  high,  strong  built,  dark 
complexioned,  brave  in  spirit,  though  mild  in  manners.  IJe 
had  resided  for  many  years  in  Missouri,  on  the  frontier;  had 
been  among  the  earliest  adventurers  to  Santa  Fc,  where  he 
went  to  ti-ap  beaver,  and  was  taken  by  the  Spaniards.  Being 
liberated,  he  engaged  with  the  Spaniards  and  Sioux  Indians  in 
a  war  against  the  Pawnees ;  then  retui-ned  to  Missoiu-i,  and  had 
acted  by  turns  as  sheriff,  trader,  trapper,  until  he  was  enhsted 
as  a  loader  by  Captain  Bonneville. 

Cerre,  his  other  leader,  had  likewise  been  in  expeditions  to 
Santa  Fe,  in  which  he  had  endured  much  hardship.  He  was 
of  the  middle  size,  light  complexioned,  and  though  but  about 
twenty-five  years  of  age,  was  considered  an  experienced  In- 
dian trader.  It  was  a  great  object  with  Captain  Bonneville  to 
got  to  the  mountains  before  the  summer  heats  and  summer 
flies  should  render  the  travelling  across  the  prairies  distress- 
ing; and  before  the  annual  assemblages  of  people  connected 
with  tlie  fur  trade  shoidd  have  broken  up,  and  dispersed  to  the 
hunting  grounds. 

The  two  rival  associations  already  mentioned,  the  American 
Fur  Company  and  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  had 
their  several  places  of  rendezvous  for  the  present  year  at  no 
great  distance  apart,  in  Pierre's  Hole,  a  deep  valley  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  and  thither  Captain  Bonneville  in- 
tended to  shape  his  course. 

It  is  not  easy  to  do  justice  to  the  exulting  feelings  of  the 
worthy  captain,  at  finding  himself  at  the  head  of  a  stout  band 
of  hunters,  trappers,  and  woodmen;  fairly  launched  on  the 
broad  prairies,  with  his  face  to  the  boundless  west.  The 
tamest  inhabitant  of  cities,  the  veriest  spoiled  child  of  civili- 
zation, feels  his  heart  dilate  and  his  pulse  beat  high  on  finding 
himself  on  horseback  in  the  glorious  wilderness;  what  then 
must  be  the  excitement  of  one  whose  imagination  had  been 
stimulated  by  a  residence  on  the  frontier,  and  to  whom  the 
wilderness  was  a  region  of  romance  I 

His  hfird}^  followers  partook  of  his  excitement.  !Most  of 
them  had  already  experienced  the  "wild  freedom  of  savage  life. 


26  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  looked  forward  to  a  renewal  of  past  scenes  of  adventure 
and  exploit.  Their  very  appearance  and  equipment  exhibited 
a  piebald  mixture,  half  civilized  and  half  savage.  Many  of 
them  looked  more  like  Indians  than  white  men,  in  their  garbs 
and  accoutrements,  and  their  very  horses  were  caparisoned  in 
barbaric  style,  with  fantastic  trappings.  The  outset  of  a  band 
of  adventurers  on  one  of  these  expeditions  is  always  animated 
and  joyous.  The  Asrelkin  rang  with  their  shouts  and  yelps, 
after  the  manner  of  the  savages ;  and  with  boisterous  jokes 
and  hght- hearted  laughter.  As  they  passed  the  straggling 
hamlets  and  solitary  cabins  that  fringe  the  skirts  of  the  fron- 
tier, they  would  startle  their  inmates  by  Indian  yells  and  war- 
whoops,  or  regale  them  with  grotesque  feats  of  hjorsemanship 
well  suited  to  their  half  savage  appearance.  Most  of  these 
abodes  were  inhabited  by  men  who  had  themselves  been  in 
similar  expeditions;  they  welcomed  the  travellers,  therefore, 
as  brother  trappers,  treated  them  with  a  hunter's  hospitality, 
and  cheered  them  with  an  honest  God  speed  at  parting. 

And  here  we  would  remark  a  great  difEerence,  in  point  of 
character  and  quality,  between  the  two  classes  of  trappers,  the 
"  American"  and  "French,"  as  they  are  called  in  contradis- 
tinction. The  latter  is  meant  to  designate  the  French  Creole 
of  Canada  or  Louisiana;  the  former  the  trapper  of  the  old 
American  stock,  from  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and  others  of  the 
Western  States.  The  French  trapper  is  represented  as  a 
lighter,  softer,  more  self-indulgent  kind  of  man.  He  must 
have  his  Indian  wife,  liis  lodge,  and  his  petty  conveniences. 
He  is  gay  and  thoughtless,  takes  little  heed  of  landmarks,  de- 
pends upon  his  leaders  and  companions  to  think  for  the  com- 
mon weal,  and,  if  left  to  himself,  is  easily  perplexed  and  lost. 

The  American  trapper  stands  by  himself,  and  is  peerless  for 
the  service  of  the  wilderness.  Drop  him  in  the  midst  of  a 
prairie,  or  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  and  he  is  never  at 
a  loss.  He  notices  every  landmark;  can  retrace  his  route 
through  the  most  monotonous  plains,  or  the  most  perplexed 
labyrijiths  of  the  mountains ;  no  danger  nor  difficulty  can  ap- 
pall him,  and  he  scorns  to  complain  under  any  privation.  In 
equipping  the  two  kinds  of  trappers,  the  Creole  and  Canadian 
are  apt  to  prefer  the  light  fusee ;  the  American  always  grasps 
his  rifle;  he  despises  what  he  caUs  the  "shot-gun."  We  give 
these  estimates  on  the  authority  of  a  trader  of  long  experience, 
and  a  foreigner  by  birth.  "  I  consider  one  American,"  said  he, 
"equal  to  three  Canadians  in  point  of  sagacity,  aptness  at 


ADVEJ^TURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  27 

resources,  self-dependence,  and  fearlessness  of  spirit.  In  fact, 
no  one  can  cope  with  hiui  as  a  stark  traniper  of  the  wilder- 
ness." 

Beside  the  two  classes  of  trappers  just  mentioned,  Captain 
Bonneville  had  enlisted  several  Delaw^are  Indians  in  his  em- 
ploy, on  whose  hunting  qualifications  he  placed  great  i-eliance. 

On  the  Gtli  of  May  the  travellers  passed  the  last  border  habi- 
tation, and  bade  a  long  farcw-ell  to  the  case  and  security  of 
civilization.  The  buoyant  and  clamorous  spirits  with  which 
they  liad  conimonced  their  march  gradually  subsided  as  they 
entered  upon  its  difficulties.  They  found  the  prairies  saturated 
witJi  the  heavy  cold  rains  prevalent  m  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the  wagon  wheels  sank  deep 
in  the  mire,  the  horses  were  often  to  the  fetlock,  and  both 
steed  and  rider  were  completely  jaded  by  the  evening  of  the 
12th.  wiien  they  reached  the  Kansas  River;  a  fine  stream 
about  three  hundred  yards  wide,  entering  the  Missouri  from 
the  south.  Though  fordable  in  almost  ever}'  part  at  the  end  of 
summer  and  during  the  autumn,  yet  it  was  necessary  to  con- 
struct a  raft  for  the  transportation  of  the  wagons  and  effects. 
All  this  was  done  in  the  course  of  the  following  day,  and  by 
evening  the  w^hole  party  arrived  at  the  agency  of  the  Kansas 
tribe.  This  was  under  the  superintendence  of  General  Clarke, 
brother  of  the  celebrated  traveller  of  the  same  name,  who, 
with  Lewis,  made  the  firet  expedition  down  the  waters  of  the 
Columbia.  He  was  living  like  a  patriarch,  surrounded  by 
laborers  and  interpreters,  all  snugly  housed,  and  provided  with 
excellent  farms.  The  functionary  next  in  consequence  to  the 
agent  was  the  blacksmith,  a  most  important,  and,  indeed,  in- 
dispensable personage  in  a  frontier  community.  The  Kansas 
resemble  the  Osages  in  featin*es,  dress,  and  language;  they 
raise  corn  and  hunt  the  buffalo,  ranging  the  Kansas  River  and 
its  tributary  streams ;  at  the  time  of  the  captain's  visit  they 
w(^re  at  war  with  the  Pawnees  of  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte 
River. 

The  unusual  sight  of  a  train  of  wagons  caused  quite  a  sensa- 
tion among  these  savages;  who  thronged  about  the  caravan, 
examining  everything  minutely,  and  asking  a  thousand  ques- 
tions; exhibiting  a  degree  of  excitability,  and  a  lively  curi- 
osity, totally  opposite  to  that  apathy  with  which  their  race  is 
so  often  reproached. 

The  personage  who  most  attracted  the  captain's  attention  at 
this  place  was  "White  Plume,"  the  Kansas  chief,  and  they 


28  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

soon  became  good  friends.  Wliite  Plume  (we  are  pleased  Avith 
liis  chivalrous  soubriquet)  inhaljited  a  large  stone  house,  built 
for  him  by  order  of  the  American  Government ;  but  the  estab- 
lishment had  not  been  carried  out  in  corresponding  style. 
It  might  be  palace  without,  but  it  was  wigwam  within;  so 
that,  between  the  stateliness  of  his  mansion  and  the  squahd- 
ness  of  his  furniture,  the  gallant  White  Plume  presented  soma 
such  whunsical  incongruity  as  we  see  in  the  gala  equipments 
of  an  Indian  chief  on  a  treaty-making  embassy  at  Wasliing- 
ton,  who  has  been  generously  decked  out  in  cocked  hat  and 
military  coat,  in  contrast  to  his  breech-clout  and  leathern 
leggins ;  being  grand  oflBcer  at  top,  and  ragged  Indian  at  bot- 
tom. 

White  Plume  was  so  taken  with  the  courtesy  of  the  captain, 
and  pleased  with  one  or  two  presents  received  from  him,  that 
he  accompanied  him  a  day's  journey  on  his  march,  and  passed 
a  night  in  his  camp,  on  the  margin  of  a  small  stream.  The 
method  of  encamping  generally  observed  by  the  caj^tain  was 
as  follows :  The  twenty  Avagons  were  disposed  in  a  square,  at 
the  distance  of  thirty-three  feet  from  each  other.  In  every 
interval  there  was  a  mess  stationed;  and  each  mess  hai  its 
fii-e,  where  tke  men  cooked,  ate,  gossiped,  and  slept.  The 
horses  were  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  with  a  guard 
stationed  over  them  at  night. 

The  horses  were  "side  Imed,"  as  it  is  termed;  that  is  to  say, 
the  fore  and  hind  foot  on  the  same  side  of  the  animal  were 
tied  together,  so  as  to  be  within  eighteen  inches  of  each  other. 
A  horse  thus  fettered  is  for  a  time  sadly  embarrassed,  but  soon 
becomes  sufficiently  accustomed  to  the  restraint  to  move  about 
slowly.  It  prevents  his  wandering;  and  liis  being  easily  car- 
ried off  at  night  by  lurking  Indians.  When  a  horse  that  is 
"foot  free"  is  tied  to  pne  thus  secured,  the  latter  forms,  as  it 
were,  a  pivot,  roimd  which  the  other  runs  and  curvets,  in  case 
of  alarm. 

The  encampment  of  which  we  are  speaking  presented  a 
striking  scene.  The  various  mess-fires  were  surrouiided  by 
picturesque  groups,  standing,  sitting,  and  reclining;  some 
busied  in  cooking,  others  in  cleaning  their  weapons;  while 
the  frequent  laugh  told  that  the  rough  joke  or  merry  story 
was  going  on.  In  the  middle  of  the  camp,  before  the  principal 
lodge,  sat  the  two  chieftains.  Captain  Bonneville  and  White 
Plume,  in  soldier-like  communion,  the  captain  delighted  with 
the  opportunity  of  meeting,  on  social  terms,  with  one  of  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  29 

red  waiTiors  of  the  -wilderness,  the  unsophisticated  children  of 
nature.  Tlie  latter  was  squatted  on  his  buffalo  robe,  his  strong 
ieatures  and  red  skin  glaring  in  the  broad  light  of  a  blazing 
fire,  while  he  recounted  astounding  tales  of  the  bloody  exploits 
of  his  tribe  and  himself  in  their  wars  with  the  Pawnees ;  for 
there  are  no  old  soldiers  more  given  to  long  campaigning 
stories  than  Indian  "braves." 

The  feuds  of  White  Plume,  however,  had  not  been  corfined 
to  the  red  men ;  he  had  much  to  say  of  brushes  with  bee  hunt- 
ere,  a  class  of  offenders  for  whom  ho  seemed  to  cherish  a 
particular  abhorrence.  As  the  species  of  hunting  prosecuted 
by  these  worthies  is  not  laid  down  in  any  of  the  ancient  books 
of  venerie,  and  is,  in  fact,  pecuhar  to  our  western  frontier,  a 
Avord  or  two  on  the  subject  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  the 
reader. 

The  bee  hunter  is  generally  some  settler  on  the  verge  of  the 
prairies;  a  long,  lank  fellow,  of  fever  and  ague  complexion, 
acquired  from  living  on  new  soil,  and  in  a  hut  built  of  green 
logs.  In  the  autumn,  when  the  harvest  is  over,  these  frontier 
settlers  form  parties  of  two  or  three,  and  prepare  for  a  bee 
hunt.  Having  provided  themselves  with  a  wagon,  and  a  num- 
ber of  empty  casks,  they  sally  off,  armed  with  their  rifles, 
into  the  wilderness,  directing  their  course  east,  west,  north,  or 
south,  without  any  regard  to  the  ordinance  of  the  American 
Govermnent  which  strictly  forbids  all  trespass  upon  the  lands 
belonging  to  the  Indian  tribes. 

The  belts  of  woodland  that  traverse  the  lower  prairies  and 
border  the  rivers  are  peopled  by  innumerable  swarms  of  Avild 
bees,  which  make  their  hives  in  hollow  trees,  and  fill  them 
with  honey  tolled  from  the  rich  flowers  of  the  prairies.  The 
bees,  according  to  popular  assertion,  are  migrating,  like  the 
f^ettiers,  to  the  west.  An  Indian  trader,  well  experienced  in 
Ithe  country,  informs  us  that  within  ten  years  that  he  has 
passed  in  the  Far  West,  the  bee  has  advanced  westward  above 
a  hundred  miles.  It  is  said  on  the  Missouri  that  the  wild  tur- 
key and  the  wild  bee  go  up  the  river  together ;  neither  is  found 
in  the  upper  regions.  It  is  but  recently  that  the  wild  tuikey 
has  been  killed  on  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte ;  and  his  travelling 
competitor,  the  wild  bee,  appeared  there  about  the  same  time. 

Be  all  this  as  it  may;  the  course  of  our  party  of  bee  huntci'S 
is  to  make  a  wide  circuit  through  the  woody  river  bottoms, 
and  the  patches  of  forest  on  the  pi-aii'ies,  marking,  as  they  go 
out,  G^'ory  tree  in  ^hich  they  iave  dotoctcd  a  hive.     Thoso 


30  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

marks  are  generally  respected  by  any  other  bee  hunter  that 
should  come  upon  their  ti'ack.  When  they  have  marked  cufFi- 
cient  to  fill  all  their  casks,  they  turn  their  faces  homeward,  cut 
down  the  trees  as  they  proceed,  and  ha\ang  loaded  their 
■wagon  with  honey  and  wax,  return  well  pleased  to  the  settle- 
ments. 

Now  it  so  happens  that  the  Indians  relish  wild  honey  as 
highly  as  do  the  white  men,  and  are  tlie  more  deliglited  with 
this  natural  luxury  from  its  having,  in  many  instances,  but 
recently  made  its  appearance  in  their  lands.  The  consequence 
is  numberless  disputes  and  conflicts  between  them  and  the  bee 
hunters ;  and  often  a  party  of  the  latter,  returning,  laden  with 
rich  spoil  from  one  of  their  forays,  are  apt  to  be  waylaid  by  the 
native  lords  of  the  soil ;  their  honey  to  be  seized,  their  harness 
cut  to  pieces,  and  themselves  left  to  find  their  way  home  the 
best  way  they  can,  happy  to  escape  with  no  greater  personal 
harm  than  a  sound  rib-roasting. 

Such  were  the  marauders  of  whose  offences  the  gallant 
White  Plume  made  the  most  bitter  complaint.  They  were 
chiefly  the  settlers  of  the  western  part  of  Missouri,  who  are 
the  most  famous  bee  hiuiters  on  the  frontier,  and  w^hose  fa- 
vorite hunting  ground  lies  within  the  lands  of  the  Kansas 
tribe.  According  to  the  account  of  White  Plume,  however, 
matters  were  pretty  fairly  balanced  between  Mm  and  the  of- 
fenders; he  having  as  often  treated  them  to  a  taste  of  the 
bitter,  as  they  had  robbed  him  of  the  sweets. 

It  is  but  justice  to  this  gallant  chief  to  say  that  he  gave 
proofs  of  having  acquired  some  of  the  hghts  of  ciWlization 
from  his  proximity  to  the  whites,  as  was  evinced  in  his  knowl- 
edge of  driving  a  bargain.  He  required  hard  cash  in  return 
for  some  corn  with  which  he  supplied  the  worthy  captain,  and 
left  the  latter  at  a  loss  which  most  to  admire,  his  native  chiv- 
alry as  a  brave  or  his  acquired  adroitness  as  a  trader. 


ADVJ£2fTUEES  OF  CAPTAI2{  B02i NEVILLE.  31 


CHAPTER  III.    • 

WIDE  PRAIRIES -VEGETABLE  PRODUCTIONS — TABULAR  HILLS- 
SLABS  OF  SANDSTONE— KEBPASKA  OR  PLATTE  RIVER— SCANTY 
FARE -BUFFALO  SKULLS -WAGONS  TURNED  INTO  BOATS- 
HERDS  OF  BUFFALO— CLIFFS  RESEMBLING  CASTLES— THE  CHIM- 
NEY— SCOTT'S  BLUFFS — STORY  CONNECTED  AVITH  THEM— THE 
BIGHORN  OR  AHSAHTA— ITS  NATURE  AND  HABITS — DIFFERENCE 
BETWEEN  THAT  AND  THE  "WOOLLY  SHEEP,"  OR  GOAT  OF  THE 
MOUNTAINS. 

From  the  middle  to  the  end  of  May,  Captain  Bonneville  pur- 
sued a  western  course  over  vast  undulating  plains,  destitute  of 
tree  or  shrub,  rendered  niirj^  by  occasional  rain,  and  cut  up  by 
deep  water-courses  where  they  had  to  dig  roads  for  their 
wagons  down  the  soft  crumbling  banks,  and  to  throw  bridges 
across  the  streams.  The  weather  had  attained  the  summer 
heat ;  the  thermometer  standing  about  fifty-seven  degrees  in 
the  morning,  early,  but  rising  to  about  ninety  degi-ees  at  noon. 
The  incessant  breezes,  however,  wliich  sweej)  tliese  vast  plains, 
render  the  heats  endurable.  Game  was  scanty,  and  they  had 
to  eke  out  their  scanty  fare  with  Avild  roots  and  vegetables,  such 
as  the  Indian  potato,  the  wild  onion,  and  the  prairie  tomato,  and 
thoy  met  with  quantities  of  "  red  root,"  from  which  the  himt- 
ers  make  a  very  palatable  beverage.  The  only  human  being 
that  crossed  their  path  was  a  Kansas  warrior,  returning  from 
some  soUtary  expedition  of  bravado  or  revenge,  bearing  a 
Pawnee  scalp  as  a  trophy. 

The  country  gradually  rose  as  they  proceeded  westward,  and 
their  route  took  them  over  liigh  ridges,  commanding  wide  and* 
beautiful  prospects.  The  vast  pkiin  was  studded  on  the  west 
with  innumerable  hills  of  conical  shape,  such  as  are  seen  north 
of  the  Arkansas  River.  These  hills  have  their  summits  appar- 
ently cut  off  about  the  same  elevation,  so  as  to  leave  flat  surfaces 
at  top.  It  is  conjectured  by  some  that  the  Avliole  country  may 
originally  have  been  of  the  altiiude  of  these  tabular  hills,  but 
through  some  process  of  nature  may  have  sunk  to  its  present 
level ;  these  insulated  eminences  being  protected  by  broad  foun- 
dations of  solid  rock. 


32  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

Captain  Bonneville  mentions  another  geological  phenomenon 
north  of  Rod  River,  where  the  surface  of  the  earth,  in  consid- 
erable tracts  of  country,  is  covered  with  broad  slabs  of  sand- 
stone, having  the  form  and  position  of  grave-stones,  and  look- 
ing as  ^f  they  had  been  forced  up  by  some  subterranean 
agitation.  "The  resemblance,"  says  he,  "which  these  very 
remarkable  spots  have  in  many  places  to  old  churchyards  is 
curious  in  the  extreme.  One  might  almost  fancy  himsclt 
among  the  tombs  of  the  pre- Adamites. " 

On  the  2d  of  June  they  arrived  on  the  main  stream  of  the 
Nebraska  or  Platte  River ;  twenty -five  miles  below  the  head  of 
the  Great  Island.  The  low  banks  of  this  river  give  it  an  ap- 
pearance of  great  width.  Captain  Bonneville  measured  it  in 
one  place,  and  found  it  twenty-two  hundred  yards  from  bank 
to  bank.  Its  depth  was  from  three  to  six  feet,  the  bottom  full 
of  quicksands.  The  Nebraska  is  studded  with  islands  covered 
with  that  species  of  poplar  called  the  cotton-wood  tree.  Keep- 
ing up  along  the  course  of  this  river  for  several  days,  they 
were  obliged,  from  the  scarcity  of  game,  to  piit  themselves 
upon  short  allowance,  and  occasionally  to  kill  a  steer.  They 
bore  their  daily  labors  and  privations,  however,  with  great 
good  humor,  taking  their  tone,  in  all  probability,  from  the 
buoyant  spirit  of  their  leader.  ' '  If  the  weather  was  inclem- 
ent, "  says  the  captain,  ' '  we  watched  the  clouds,  and  hoped  for 
a  sight  of  the  blue  sky  and  the  merry  sun.  If  food  was  scanty, 
we  regaled  ourselves  with  the  hope  of  soon  falling  in  with  herds 
of  buffalo,  and  having  nothing  to  do  but  slay  and  eat."  We 
doubt  whether  the  gonial  captain  is  not  describing  the  cheeri- 
ness  of  his  own  breast,  which  gave  a  cheery  aspect  to  every- 
thing around  him. 

There  certainly  were  evidences,  however,  that  the  country 
was  not  always  equally  destitute  of  game.  At  one  place  they 
observed  a  field  decorated  with  buffalo  skulls,  arranged  in  cir- 
cles, curves,  and  other  mathematical  figures,  as  if  for  some 
mystic  rite  or  ceremony.  They  were  almost  innumerable,  and 
seemed  to  have  been  a  vast  hecatomb  offered  up  in  thanks- 
giving to  the  Great  Spirit  for  some  signal  success  in  the  chase. 

On  the  11th  of  June  they  came  to  the  fork  of  the  Nebraska, 
where  it  divides  itself  into  two  equal  and  beautiful  streams. 
One  of  these  branches  rises  in  the  west-southwest,  near  the 
head- waters  of  the  Arkansas.  Up  the  course  of  this  branch,  as 
Captain  Bonneville  was  well  aware,  lay  the  route  to  the  Ca- 
mancho  and  Kioway  Indians,  and  to  the  northern  Mexican  set- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIX  BOXXEVILLE.  33 

tlcments;  of  the  other  branch  he  knew  nothmp;.  Its  sources 
might  he  among  Avild  and  inaccessible  chits,  and  tmnble 
and  foam  down  rugged  defiles  and  over  craggy  precipices;  but 
its  direction  was  in  the  ti'ue  course,  and  up  tliis  stream  he  de- 
termined to  prosecute  his  route  to  the  Rocky  a^fountains.  Find- 
ing it  impossible,  from  quicksands  and  otlier  dangerous  impedi- 
ments, to  cross  the  river  in  this  neighborhood,  he  kept  up 
along  the  south  fork  for  two  days,  merely  seeking  a  safe  fording 
place.  At  length  he  encamped,  caused  the  bodies  of  the  wagons 
to  be  dislodged  from  the  wheels,  covered  with  buffalo  hides, 
and  besmeared  with  a  compound  of  tallow  and  ashes;  thus 
forming  rude  boats.  In  these  they  ferried  their  effects  across 
the  stream,  which  was  six  hundred  yards  wide,  with  a  swift 
and  strong  current.  Three  men  Avere  in  each  boat,  to  manage 
it;  others  waded  across,  pushing  the  barks  before  them.  Thus 
all  ci'osscd  in  safety.  A  march  of  nine  miles  took  them  over 
high  rolling  prairies  to  the  north  fork ;  their  eyes  being  regaled 
Avith  the  welcome  sight  of  herds  of  buffalo  at  a  distance,  some 
careering  the  plain,  others  grazing  and  reposing  in  the  natural 
meadows. 

Skirting  along  the  north  fork  for  a  day  or  two,  excessively 
annoj'ed  by  musquitoes  and  buffalo  gnats,  thej^  reached,  in  the 
evening  of  the  17th,  a  small  but  beautiful  grove,  from  which 
issued  the  confused  notes  of  singing  birds,  the  first  they  had 
heai'd  since  crossing  the  boundary  of  ^Missouri.  After  so  many 
days  of  weary  travelling,  through  a  naked,  monotonous  and 
silent  country,  it  was  delightful  once  more  to  hear  the  song  of 
the  bird,  and  to  behold  the  verdure  of  the  grove.  It  was  a 
beautiful  sunset,  and  a  sight  of  the  glowing  rays,  manthng  the 
tree-tops  and  rustling  branches,  gladdened  every  heart.  They 
pitched  their  camp  in  the  grove,  kindled  their  fires,  partook 
merrily  of  their  rude  fare,  and  resigned  themselves  to  tlie 
sweetest  sleep  they  had  enjoyed  since  theii*  outset  upon  the 
prairies. 

The  country  now  became  rugged  and  broken.  High  bluffs 
advanced  upon  the  river,  and  forced  the  travellei'S  occasionally 
to  leave  its  banks  and  wind  their  course  into  the  interior. 
In  one  of  the  wild  and  solitary  passes  they  were  startled  by 
the  trail  of  four  or  five  pedestrians,  whom  they  supposed  to  be 
spies  from  some  predatory  camp  of  either  Arickara  or  Crow 
Indians.  This  obliged  them  to  redouble  their  vigilance  at 
night,  and  to  keep  especial  watch  upon  their  horses.  In  these 
rugged  and  elevated  regions  they  began  to  see  the  black- 


Si '         AD  VENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

tailed  deer,  a  species  larger  than  the  ordinary  kind,  and  chiefly 
found  in  rocky  and  mountainous  countries.  They  had  reached 
also  a  great  buffalo  range;  Captain  Bonneville  ascended  a 
high  bluff,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  suriounding 
plains.  As  far  as  his  eye  could  reach,  the  country  seemed 
absolutely  blackened  by  innumerable  herds.  No  language,  he 
says,  could  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  vast  living  mass 
thus  presented  to  his  eye.  He  remarked  that  the  bulls  and 
cows  generally  congregated  in  separate  herds. 

Opposite  to  the  camp  at  this  place  Avas  a  singular  phenom- 
enon, which  is  among  the  curiosities  of  the  country.  It  is 
called  the  chimney.  The  lower  part  is  a  conical  mound,  rising 
out  of  the  naked  plain ;  from  the  summit  shoots  up  a  shaft  or 
column,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  from 
which  it  derives  its  name.  The  height  of  the  vv'hole,  according 
to  Captain  Bonneville,  is  a  hundred  and  seventy-five  yards. 
It  is  composed  of  indurated  clay,  with  alternate  layere  of  red 
and  white  sandstone,  and  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  up- 
ward of  thirty  miles. 

On  the  21st  they  encamped  amid  high  and  beetling  chffs  of 
indurated  clay  and  sandstone,  bearing  the  semblance  of 
towers,  castles,  churches  and  fortified  cities.  At  a  distance  it 
was  scarcely  i)ossible  to  persuade  one's  self  that  the  works  of 
art  wore  not  mingled  with  these  fantastic  freaks  of  nature. 
They  have  received  the  name  of  Scott's  Bluffs  from  a  melan- 
choly circumstance.  A  number  of  years  since,  a  party  were 
descending  the  upper  part  of  the  river  in  canoes,  when  their 
frail  barks  were  overturned  and  all  their  powder  spoiled. 
Their  rifles  being  thus  rendered  useless,  they  were  unable  to 
procure  food  by  hunting  and  had  to  depend  upon  roots  and 
wild  fiiiits  for  subsistence.  After  suffering  extremely  from 
hunger,  they  arrived  at  Laramie's  Fork,  a  small  tributary  of 
the  north  livanch  of  the  Nebraska,  about  sixty  miles  above  the 
cliffs  just  mentioned.  Here  one  of  the  party,  by  the  name  of 
Scott,  was  taken  ill ;  and  his  companions  came  to  a  halt,  until 
he  should  recover  health  and  strength  sufficient  to  proceed. 
While  they  were  searching  round  in  quest  of  edible  roots  they 
discovered  a  fresh  trail  of  white  men,  who  had  evidently  but 
recently  preceded  them.  What  was  to  be  done?  By  a  forced 
march  they  might  overtake  this  party,  and  thus  be  able  to 
reach  the  settlements  in  safety.  Should  they  linger  they 
might  all  perish  of  famine  and  exhaustion.  Scott,  however, 
was  incapable  of  moving ;  they  were  too  feeble  to  aid  him  for- 


ABVENTURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BOXM'JVII.I.E.  35 

•ward,  and  dreaded  that  such  a  clog  would  prevent  their  com- 
ing up  willi  the  advance  party.  Tliey  determined,  therefore, 
to  al)andon  him  to  his  fate.  Accord in^^dy,  under  pretence  of 
seeking  food,  and  such  simples  as  might  be  efhcacious  in  his 
malady,  they  deserted  him  and  hastened  forward  upon  the 
trail.  They  succeeded  in  overtaking  the  party  of  which  they 
were  in  quest,  but  concealed  their  faithless  desertion  of  Scott; 
alleging  that  he  had  died  of  disease. 

On  the  ensuing  summer,  these  very  individuals  visiting 
these  parts  in  company  with  others,  came  suddenly  upon  tlie 
bleached  bones  and  grinning  skull  of  a  human  skeleton,  which, 
by  certain  signs  they  recognized  for  the  remains  of  Scott. 
This  was  sixty  long  miles  from  the  place  where  they  had 
abandoned  liim ;  and  it  appeared  that  the  wretched  man  had 
crawled  that  immense  distance  before  death  put  an  end  to  his 
miseries.  The  wild  and  picturesque  bluffs  in  the  neighborhood 
of  his  lonely  grave  have  ever  since  borne  his  name. 

Amid  this  wild  and  sti'iking  scenery.  Captain  Bonneville, 
for  the  first  time,  beheld  iiocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  an 
animal  which  frequents  these  cliffs  in  great  numbers.  They 
accord  with  the  nature  of  such  scenery,  aqd  add  much  to  its 
romantic  effect ;  bounding  like  goats  from  crag  to  crag,  often 
trooping  along  the  lofty  shelves  of  the  mountains,  under  the 
guidance  of  some  venerable  patriarch,  with  horns  twisted 
lower  than  his  muzzle,  and  sometimes  peering  over  the  edge  of 
a  precipice,  so  high  that  they  appear  scarce  bigger  than  crows ; 
indeed,  it  seems  a  pleasiu-e  to  them  to  seek  the  most  rugged 
and  frightful  situations,  doubtless  from  a  feeling  of  security. 

This  animal  is  commonly  called  the  nioimtain  sheep,  and  is 
often  confounded  with  another  animal,  the  "  woolly  sheep," 
found  more  to  the  northward,  about  the  country  of  the  Flat- 
heads.  The  latter  likewise  inhabits  cliffs  in  summer,  but 
descends  into  the  valleys  in  the  winter.  It  has  white  wool, 
like  a  sheep,  mingled  with  a  thin  growth  of  long  hair ;  but  it 
has  short  legs,  a  deep  belly,  and  a  beard  like  a  goat.  Its  horns 
are  about  five  inches  long,  slightly  curved  backward,  black  as 
jet,  and  beautifully  polished.  Its  hoofs  are  of  the  same  color. 
This  animal  is  by  no  means  so  active  as  the  bighorn,  it  does 
not  bound  much,  but  sits  a  good  deal  upon  its  haunches.  It  is 
not  so  plentiful  either;  rarely  more  than  two  or  three  are  seen 
at  a  time.  Its  wool  alone  gives  a  resemblance  to  the  sheep ;  it 
is  more  properly  of  the  goat  genus.  The  flesh  is  said  to  have  a 
musty  flavor;  some  have  thought  the  fleece  might  be  valuable. 


86  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

as  it  is  said  to  be  as  fine  as  that  of  the  goat  of  Cashmere,  but  it 
is  not  to  be  procured  in  sufficient  quantities. 

The  ahsahta,  argaH,  or  bighorn,  on  the  contrary,  has  short 
hair  hke  a  deer,  and  resembles  it  in  shape,  but  has  the  head 
and  horns  of  a  sheep,  and  its  flesh  is  said  to  be  dehcious 
mutton.  The  Indians  consider  it  more  sweet  and  dehcate 
than  any  other  kind  of  venison.  It  abounds  in  the  Rocky 
]\Iountains,  from  the  fiftieth  degree  of  north  latitude  quite 
down  to  California ;  generally  in  the  highest  regions  capable  of 
vegetation ;  sometimes  it  ventures  into  the  valleys,  but  on  the 
least  alarm,  regains  its  favorite  cliffs  and  precipices,  where  it 
is  perilous,  if  not  impossible  for  the  hmiter  to  follow.* 


CHAPTER  IV. 

AN  ALA?.!I— CROW  INDIA^"S— THEIR  APPEARANCE— MODE  OF  AP- 
PROACH—THEIR VENGEFUL  ERRAND— THEIR  CURIOSITY— HOS- 
TILITY BETWEEN  THE  CROWS  AND  BLACKFEET— LOVING  CONDUCT 
OF  THE  CROWS— LARAMIE'S  FORK — FIRST  NAVIGATION  OF  THE 
NEBRASKA— GREAT  ELEVATION  OF  THE  COUNTRY— RARITY  OF 
THE  ATMOSPHERE— ITS  EFFECT  ON  THE  WOODWORK  OF  WAGONS 
— BLACK  HILLS  — THEIR  WILD  AND  BROKEN  SCENERY — INDIAN 
DOGS — CROW  TROPHIES — STERLE  AND  DREARY  COUNTRY— BANKS 
OF  THE  SWEET  WATER— BUFFALO  HUNTING — ADVEi^TURE  OF 
TOM  CAIN,    THE  IRISH  COOK. 

When  on  the  march.  Captain  Bonneville  always  sent  some 
of  his  best  hunters  in  the  advance  to  reconnoitre  the  country, 
as  weU  as  to  look  out  for  game.  On  the  24th  of  May,  as  the 
caravan  was  slowly  journeying  up  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska, 
the  hunters  came  galloping  back,  waving  their  caps,  and  giving 
the  alarm  cry,  Indians !  Indians ! 

The  captain  immediately  ordered  a  halt :  the  hunters  now 
came  up  and  announced  that  a  large  war-party  of  Crow  In- 
dians were  just  above,  on  the  river.  The  captain  knew  the 
character  of  these  savages;  one  of  the  most  roving,  warlike, 


*  Dimensions  of  a  male  of  this  species:  from  the  nose  to  the  base  of  the  tail,  five 
feet;  lenerth  of  the  tail,  four  inches;  pirth  of  the  body,  four  feet;  height,  three  feet 
eight  inches;  the  horn,  three  feet  six  inches  long;  one  foot  three  inches  in  circum- 
ference at  base. 


ABVENTURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  ;n 

crafty,  and  predatory  tribes  of  the  mountains;  horse-stealers 
of  the  first  order,  and  easily  provoked  to  acts  of  sanp^Jinary 
violence.  Orders  were  accordingly  given  to  prepare  for  action, 
and  every  one  promptly  took  the  jiost  that  had  been  assigned 
him,  in  the  general  order  of  the  march,  in  all  cases  of  warlike 
emergency. 

Everything  being  put  in  battle  array,  the  captain  took  the 
lead  of  his  little  band,  and  moved  on  slowly  and  warily.  In 
a  little  while  he  beheld  the  Crow  warriors  enierginjO:  from 
among  the  bluffs.  There  were  about  sixty  of  them;  fine  mar- 
tial-looking fellows,  painted  and  ari-ayed  for  war,  and  mounted 
on  horses  decked  out  Avith  all  kinds  of  wild  trappings.  They 
came  prancing  along  in  gallant  style,  with  many  wild  and 
dexterous  evolutions,  for  none  can  surpass  them  in  horseman- 
ship: and  their  bright  colors,  and  flaunting  and  fantastic  em- 
bellishments, glaring  and  sparkling  in  the  morning  sunshine, 
gave  them  reallj^  a  striking  appearance. 

Their  mode  of  ai>proach,  to  one  not  acquainted  with  the  tac- 
tics and  ceremonies  of  this  rude  chivalry  of  the  wilderness, 
had  an  air  of  direct  hostility.  They  came  galloping  forward 
in  a  body,  as  if  about  to  make  a  furious  charge,  but,  when 
close  at  hand,  opened  to  the  right  and  left,  and  wheeled  in  wide 
circles  round  the  travellers,  Avhooping  and  yelling  like  maniacs. 

This  done,  their  mock  fury  sank  into  a  calm,  and  the  chief, 
approaching  the  ca]>tain,  ^vho  had  remained  warily  drawn  up, 
thougii  informed  of  the  pacific  nature  of  the  man(puvre,  ex- 
tended to  him  the  hand  of  friendship.  The  pipe  of  peace  was 
smoked,  and  now  all  was  good  fellowship. 

The  Crows  -were  in  pursuit  of  a  ban<l  <»f  Cheyennes,  wlio  had 
attacked  their  village  in  the  night  and  killed  one  of  their  peo- 
ple. They  had  already  been  five  and  twenty  days  on  the  track 
of  the  marauders,  and  were  determined  not  to  return  home 
until  they  had  sated  their  revenge. 

A  few  days  previously,  some  of  their  scouts,  -who  were  rang- 
ing the  country  at  a  distance  from  the  main  body,  had  discov- 
ered the  party  of  Captain  Bonneville.  Th(\y  had  dogged  it  for 
a  time  in  secret,  astonished  at  the  long  train  of  wagons  and 
oxen,  and  especially  struck  with  the  sight  of  a  cow  atid  calf, 
quietly  following  the  caravan;  supposing  them  to  be  some  kind 
of  tame  buffalo.  Having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  car- 
ried back  to  their  chief  intelligence  of  all  that  they  had  scon. 
He  had,  in  consequence,  diverged  from  his  pursuit  of  ven- 
geance, to  behold  the  wor.dor';  d'^^cribed  to  him.     "Now  that 


38  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVIl.LE. 

we  have  met  you,"  said  he  to  Captain  Bonne\alle,  "and  have 
seen  these  marvels  with  our  own  eyes,  our  hearts  are  glad." 
In  i'act,  nothing  could  exceed  the  curiosity  evinced  by  those 
people  as  to  the  objects  before  them.  Wagons  had  never 
be(^]i  seen  by  them  before,  and  they  exaiaiined  tiicm  with 
the  greatest  minuteness;  but  the  calf  was  the  peculiar  object 
of  their  admiration.  They  watched  it  with  intense  interest  as 
it  licked  the  hands  accustomed  to  feed  it,  and  were  struck  with 
the  mild  expression  of  its  countenance,  and  its  perfect  docDity. 

After  much  sage  consultation,  they  at  length  determined  that 
it  must  be  the  "  great  medicine"  cf  the  white  party ;  an  appella- 
tion given  by  the  Indians  to  anything  of  supernatural  and 
mysterious  power,  that  is  guarded  as  a  talisman.  They  were 
completely  thrown  out  in  their  conjecture,  however,  by  an  offer 
of  the  white  men  to  exchange  the  calf  for  a  horse ;  their  esti- 
mation of  the  great  medicine  sank  in  an  instant,  and  they  de- 
clined the  bargain. 

At  the  request  of  the  Crow  chieftain  the  two  parties  en- 
camped together,  and  passed  the  residue  of  the  day  in  company. 
The  captain  was  well  pleased  with  every  opportunity  to  gain  a 
knowledge  of  the  "unsophisticated  sons  of  nature,"  who  had 
so  long  been  objects  of  his  poetic  speculations;  and  indeed  tliis 
wild,  horse-stealing  tribe  is  one  of  the  most  notorious  of  the 
mountains.  The  chief,  of  course,  had  his  scalps  to  show  and  his 
battles  to  recount.  The  Blackfoot  is  the  hereditary  enemy  of 
the  Crow,  toward  whom  hostility  is  like  a  cherished  princi- 
ple of  religion ;  for  every  tribe,  besides  its  casual  antagonists, 
has  some  enduring  foe  with  whom  there  can  be  no  permanent 
reconciliation.  The  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  upon  the  whole,  are 
enemies  worthy  of  each  other,  bemg  rogues  and  ruffians  of  the 
fii'st  water.  As  their  predatory  excursions  extend  over  the 
same  regions,  they  often  come  in  contact  with  each  other,  and 
these  casual  conflicts  serve  to  keep  their  wits  awake  and  their 
jjassions  alive. 

The  present  party  of  Crows,  however,  evinced  nothing  of  the 
invidious  character  lor  which  they  are  renoAvned.  During  the 
day  and  night  that  they  were  encamped  in  company  with  the 
travellers,  their  conduct  was  friendly  in  the  extreme.  They 
were,  in  fact,  quite  irksome  in  their  attentions,  and  had  a  caress- 
ing manner  at  times  quite  importunate.  It  was  not  until  after 
separation  on  the  following  morning,  that  the  captain  and  his 
men  ascertained  the  secret  oi:  all  this  loving-kindness.  In  the 
course  of  their  fraternal  caresses,  the  Crows  had  contrived  to 


ADVKNTUlll'JS   OF  CAl'TAIX  BOXNI'JVJ LLIJ.  39 

empty  the  pockets  of  their  white  brothers ;  to  abstract  the  very 
buttons  h'om.  their  coats,  and,  above  all,  to  make  free  with 
their  hmiting  knives. 

By  equal  altitudes  of  the  sun,  taken  at  this  last  encampment, 
Captain  Bonneville  ascertained  his  latitude  to  be  41"  47'  north. 
The  thermometer,  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  stood  at  fiity- 
nine  degrees;  at  two  o'clock,  p.m.,  at  ninety-two  degrees;  and 
at  six  o'c;lock  in  the  evening,  at  seventy  degrees. 

The  Black  Hills,  or  Mountains,  now  began  to  be  seen  at  a 
distance,  printing  the  horizon  with  their  rugged  and  broken 
outlines ;  and  threatenuig  to  oppose  a  difficult  barrier  in  the 
way  of  the  travellers. 

On  the  2()th  of  May,  the  travellers  encamped  at  Laramie's 
IFork,  a  clear  and  beautiful  sti'oam,  rising  in  the  west-south- 
west, maintaining  an  average  width  of  twenty  yards,  and 
winding  through  broad  meadows  abounding  in  currants  and 
gooseberries,  and  adorned  with  groves  and  clumps  of  trees. 

By  an  observation  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  with  a  Dolland 
reflecting  telescope,  Captain  Bonneville  ascertained  the  longi- 
tude to  be  102^  57'  west  of  Greenwich. 

We  will  here  step  ahead  of  our  narrative  to  observe,  that 
about  three  years  after  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating,  ]\Ir. 
Robert  Campbell,  formei-l\^  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany, descended  the  Platte  from  this  fork,  in  skin  canoes, 
thus  proving,  what  had  always  been  discredited,  that  the  river 
was  navigable.  About  the  same  time,  he  built  a  fort  or  trad- 
ing post  at  Laramie's  Fork,  which  he  named  Fort  William, 
after  his  friend  and  partner,  Mr.  Wilham  Sublette.  Since 
that  time,  the  Platte  has  become  a  highway  for  the  fur 
traders. 

For  some  days  past,  Captain  Bonneville  had  been  made 
sensible  of  the  great  elevation  of  country  into  which  he  was 
gradually  ascending,  by  the  effect  of  the  dryness  and  rare- 
f;iction  of  the  atmosphere  upon  his  wagons.  The  woodwork 
shrunk ;  the  paint  boxes  of  the  wheels  were  continually  work- 
ing out,  and  it  was  necessary  to  support  the  spokes  by  stout 
props  to  prevent  theii-  falling  asunder.  The  travellers  were 
now  entering  one  of  those  great  steppes  of  the  Far  West, 
where  the  prevalent  aridity  of  the  atmosphere  renders  the 
country  unfit  for  cultivation.  In  these  regions  there  is  a 
fresh  sweet  growth  of  grass  in  the  spring,  but  it  is  scanty  and 
short,  and  parches  up  in  the  course  of  the  summer,  so  that 
there  i^?  none  for  the  Imnters  to  =:ct  fire  to  in  tlie  autumn.     It 


40  ADVLWTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

is  a  common  observation  that  ' '  above  the  forks  of  the  Platte 
the  grass  does  not  burn."  All  attempts  at  agrieiilturo  and 
gardening  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  WHliam  have  been 
attended  with  very  little  success.  The  grain  and  vegetables 
raised  there  have  been  scanty  in  quantity  and  poor  in  quality. 
The  great  elevation  of  these  plains,  and  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere,  will  tend  to  retain  these  immense  regions  in  a 
state  of  pristine  wUdness. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  more,  the  travellers  entered 
that  wild  and  broken  tract  of  the  Crow  country  called  the 
Black  Hills,  and  here  their  journey  became  toilsome  in  the 
extreme.  Rugged  steeps  and  deep  ravines  incessantly  ob- 
structed their  progress,  so  that  a  great  part  of  the  day  was 
spent  in  the  painful  toil  of  digging  through  banks,  filling  up 
ravines,  forcing  the  wagons  iip  the  most  forbidding  ascents,  or 
swinging  them  with  ropes  down  the  face  of  dangerous  preci- 
pices. The  shoes  of  their  horses  were  worn  out,  and  their  feet 
injured  by  the  rugged  and  stony  roads.  The  travellers  were 
annoyed  also  by  frequent  but  brief  storms,  which  would  come 
hurrying  over  the  hills,  or  through  the  mountain  defiles,  rage 
with  great  fury  for  a  short  time,  and  then  pass  off,  leaving 
everything  calm  and  serene  again. 

For  several  nights  the  camp  had  been  infested  by  vagabond 
•  Indian  dogs,  prowling  about  in  quest  of  food.  They  were 
about  the  size  of  a  large  pointer;  with  ears  short  and  erect, 
and  a  long  bushy  tail — altogether,  they  bore  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  a  wolf.  These  skulking  visitors  would  keep  about 
the  purlieus  of  the  camp  until  daylight ;  when,  on  the  first  stir 
of  life  among  the  sleepers,  they  would  scamper  off  until  they 
reached  some  rising  ground,  where  they  would  take  their 
seats,  and  keep  a  sharp  and  hungry  watch  upon  every  move- 
ment. The  moment  the  travellers  were  fairly  on  the  march, 
and  the  camp  was  abandoned,  these  starveling  hangers-on 
would  hasten  to  the  deserted  fires  to  seize  upon  the  half-picked 
bones,  the  offal  and  garbage  that  lay  about ;  and,  having  made 
a  hasty  meal,  with  many  a  snap  and  snarl  and  growl,  would 
follow  leisurely  on  the  trail  of  the  caravan.  Many  attempts 
were  made  to  coax  or  catch  them,  but  in  vain.  Their  quicic 
and  suspicious  eyes  caught  the  slightest  sinister  movement,  and 
they  turned  and  scami^ered  off.  At  length  one  was  taken. 
He  was  terribly  alarmed,  and  crouched  and  trembled  as  if 
expecting  instant  death.  Soothed,  however,  by  caresses,  he 
began  after  a  time  to  gather  confidence  and  wag  his  tail,  and 


ADVi:yruRi:s  of  captaix  noyyEViLLE.        ^\ 

at  length  was  brought  to  follow  close  at  the  heels  of  his 
captors,  still,  however,  darting  around  furtive  and  suspicious 
glances,  and  evincing  a  disposition  to  scamper  off  upon  the 
least  alarm. 

On  the  first  of  July  the  band  of  Crow  warriors  again  crossed 
their  path.  They  came  in  vaunting  and  vainglorious  style; 
displaying  five  Cheyenne  scalps,  the  trophies  of  their  ven- 
geance. They  were  now  bound  homeward,  to  appease  the 
manes  of  their  comrade  by  these  proofs  that  his  death  had 
been  revenged,  and  intended  to  have  scalp  dances  and  other 
triumphant  rejoicings.  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men,  how- 
ever, were  by  no  means  disposed  to  renew  their  confiding 
intimacy  with  these  crafty  savages,  and  above  all,  took  care 
to  avoid  their  i)ilfering  caresses.  They  remarked  one  pre- 
caution of  the  Crows  with  respect  to  their  horses ;  to  protect 
their  hoofs  from  the  sharp  and  jagged  rocks  among  which 
they  had  to  pass,  they  had  covered  them  with  shoes  of  buffalo 
liide. 

The  route  of  the  travellers  lay  generally  along  the  course  of 
the  Nebraska  or  Platte,  but  occasionally,  where  steep  prom- 
ontories advanced  to  the  margin  of  the  stream,  they  were 
obliged  to  make  inland  circuits.  One  of  these  took  them 
through  a  bold  and  stern  coimtry,  bordered  by  a  range  of  low 
mountains,  running  east  and  west.  Everything  around  bore 
traces  of  some  fearful  convulsion  of  nature  in  times  long  past. 
Hitherto  the  various  strata  of  rock  had  exhibited  a  gentle 
elevation  toward  the  southwest,  but  here  everything  appeared 
to  have  been  subverted,  and  thrown  out  of  place.  In  many 
places  there  were  heavy  beds  of  white  sandstone  resting  upon 
red.  Immense  strata  of  rocks  jutted  up  into  crags  and  clifTs ; 
and  sometimes  formed  perpendicular  walls  and  overhanging 
precipices.  An  air  of  sterility  prevailed  over  these  savage 
wastes.  The  valleys  Avere  destitute  of  herbage,  and  scantily 
clothed  with  a  stunted  species  of  wormwood,  generally  known 
among  traders  and  trappers  by  the  name  of  sage.  From  an 
elevated  point  of  their  march  through  this  region,  the  travel- 
lers caught  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Powder  Peck  Mountains 
away  to  the  north,  strt^tching  along  the  very  verge  of  the 
horizon,  and  seeming,  from  the  snow  with  which  they  were 
mantled,  to  be  a  chain  of  small  white  clouds  connecting  sky 
and  earth. 

Though  the  thermometer  at  mid-day  ranged  from  eighty  to 
ninety,  and  even  sometimes  rose  to  ninoty-thrcc  degrees,  vf  t 


42  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

occasional  spots  of  snow  were  to  be  seen  on  the  tops  of  the 
low  mountains,  among  which  the  traveUers  were  journeying; 
proois  of  the  great  elevation  of  the  whole  region. 

Tlie  Nehraslca,  in  its  passage  through  the  Black  Hills,  is 
confined  to  a  much  narrower  channel  than  that  through  which 
it  flows  in  the  plains  below ;  but  it  is  deeper  and  clearer,  and 
rushes  with  a  stronger  current.  The  scenery,  also,  is  more 
varied  and  beautiful.  Sometunes  it  glides  rapidly  but  smoothly 
through  a  picturesque  valley,  between  wooded  banks;  then, 
forcing  its  way  into  the  bosom  of  rugged  motmtains,  it  rushes 
impetuously  through  narrow  defiles,  roaring  and  foaming  down 
rocks  and  rapids,  until  it  is  again  soothed  to  rest  in  some  peace- 
ful valley. 

On  the  12th  of  July  Captain  Bonneville  abandoned  the  main 
stream  of  the  Nebraska,  which  was  continually  shouldered  by 
rugged  promontories,  and  making  a  bend  to  the  southwest,  for 
a  couple  of  days,  part  of  the  time  over  plains  of  loose  sand,  en- 
camped on  the  14th  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  a  stream 
about  twenty  yards  in  breadth,  and  four  or  five  feet  deep, 
flowing  betAveen  low  banks  over  a  sandy  soil,  and  forming  one 
of  the  forks  or  upper  branches  of  the  Nebraska.  Up  this 
stream  they  now  shaped  their  course  for  several  successive 
days,  tending  generally  to  the  west.  The  soil  was  light  and 
sandy ;  the  country  much  diversified.  Frequently  the  plains 
were  studded  with  isolated  blocks  of  rock,  sometunes  in  the 
shape  of  a  half  globe,  and  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet  high. 
These  singular  masses  had  occa^ionallj'  a  very  imposing,  and 
even  sublime  appearance,  rising  from  the  midst  of  a  savage  and 
lonely  landscape. 

As  the  travellers  continued  to  advance,  they  became  more 
and  more  sensible  of  the  elevation  of  the  country.  The  hills 
around  were  more  generally  capped  with  snow.  The  men 
complained  of  cramps  and  colics,  sore  hps  and  mouths,  and  vio- 
lent headaches.  The  wood-work  of  the  wagons  also  shrank  so 
much  that  it  was  with  difficulty  the  wheels  wei'e  kept  from 
falling  to  pieces.  The  country  bordering  upon  the  river  w.as 
fi'cquently  gashed  with  deep  ravines,  or  traversed  by  high 
bluffs,  to  avoid  which  the  travellers  were  obliged  to  make  wide 
circuits  through  the  plains.  In  the  course  of  these,  they  came 
upon  immense  herds  of  buffalo,  which  kept  scouring  off  in  the 
van,  like  a  retreating  aiTny. 

Among  the  motley  retainers  of  the  camp  was  Tom  Cain,  a 
raw  Irishman,  who  ofliciated  as  cook,  whose  vai'ious  blunders 


ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTATX  BONNEVILLE.  43 

and  expedients  in  his  novel  situation,  and  in  the  wild  scenes 
and  wild  kind  of  lite  into  wliicli  lie  had  siiddeidy  bc(!n  tlirown, 
had  made  him  a  kind  of  butt  or  dn^ll  of  the  camp.  Tom,  how- 
c\er,  began  to  discover  an  ambition  superior  to  his  station; 
and  the  conversation  of  the  hunters,  and  their  stories  of  their 
exploits,  mspired  him  with  a  desire  to  elevate  himself  to  the 
dignity  of  their  order.  The  buffalo  in  such  immense  droves 
presented  a  tempting  opportunity  for  making  his  first  essay. 
He  rode,  in  the  luie  ol  march,  all  prepared  for  action:  his 
powder  llask  and  shot-pouch  knowingly  slung  at  the  pommel 
of  his  saddle,  to  beat  hand;  his  rifle  balanced  on  his  shoulder. 
While  in  this  plight  a  troop  of  buffalo  came  trotting  by  in  great 
alarna.  In  an  instant,  Tom  sprang  from  his  horse  and  gave 
chase  on  foot.  _  Fmding  they  were  leaving  hmi  behind,  ho 
levelled  his  rifle  and  pulled  trigger.  His  shot  produced  no 
other  effect  than  to  increase  the  speed  of  the  buffalo,  and  to 
frighten  his  own  horse,  who  took  to  his  heels,  and  scampered 
off  with  oil  the  ammunition.  Tom  scampered  after  him,  hal- 
looing witli  might  and  main,  and  the  wild  horse  and  wild  Irish- 
man soon  disappeared  among  the  ravines  of  the  prairie.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  line,  and  had  seen 
the  transaction  at  a  distance,  detached  a  party  in  pursuit  of 
Tom.  A  fter  a  long  interval  they  returned,  leading  the  fright- 
ened horse;  but  though  they  had  scoured  the  country,  and 
loolced  out  and  shouted  from  every  height,  they  had  soon 
nothing  of  his  rider. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  knew  Tom's  utter  awkwardness  and 
inexperience,  and  the  dangers  of  a  bewildered  Irishman  in  the 
midst  of  a  prairie,  he  halted  and  encamped  at  an  early  hour, 
that  there  might  bo  a  rogidar  hunt  for  him  in  the  morning. 

At  early  dawn  on  the  following  day  scouts  were  sent  off  ia 
every  direction,  while  the  main  body,  after  breakfast,  pro- 
ceeded slowly  on  its  course.  It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon  that  the  hunters  returned,  Avitli  honest  Tom  mounted 
behind  one  of  them.  They  had  found  him  in  a  complete  state 
of  perplexity  and  amazement.  His  appearance  caused  shouts 
of  merriment  in  the  camp;  but  Tom  for  once  could  not  join 
in  the  mirth  raised  at  his  expense ;  he  was  completely  chap- 
fallen,  and  apparently  cured  of  the  hunting  mania  for  the  roet 
of  hit;  life. 


44  ADVEXTURKS   OF  CAPTAlN  BOXJS'EVILLE. 


CHAPTER  V. 

MAGNIFICENT  SCENERY— WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS— TREASURY  OF 
WATERS — A  STRAY  HORSE — AN  INDIAN  TRAIL— TROUT  STREA3IS 
— THE  GREAT  GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY — AN  ALARM — A  BAND  OP 
TRAPPERS— FONTENELLE,  HIS  INFORMATION— SUFFERINGS  OF 
THIRST — ENCAMPMENT  ON  THE  SEEDS-KE-DEE — STRATEGY  OF 
RIVAL    TRADERS — FORTIFICATION    OF    THE    CAMP — THE    BLACK- 

\  FEET — BANDITTI  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS — THEIR  CHARACTER  AND 
HABITS. 

It  was  on  the  20th  of  July  that  Captain  Bonneville  first  came 
in  sight  of  the  grand  region  of  his  hopes  and  anticipations,  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  He  had  been  making  a  bend  to  the  south, 
to  avoid  some  obstacles  along  the  river,  and  had  attained  a 
high,  rocky  ridge,  when  a  magnificent  prospect  burst  upon  his 
sight.  To  the  west  rose  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  with  their 
bleached  and  snowy  summits  towering  into  the  clouds.  Those 
stretched  far  to  the  north-northwest,  until  they  melted  away 
into  what  appeared  to  be  faint  clouds,  but  which  the  experi- 
enced eyes  of  the  veteran  hunters  of  the  party  recognized  for 
the  rugged  mountains  of  the  Yellowstone ;  at  the  feet  of  Avhicli 
extended  the  wild  Crow  country :  a  perilous,  though  profitable 
region  for  the  trapper. 

To  the  southwest  the  eye  ranged  over  an  immense  extent  of 
wilderness,  with  what  appeared  to  be  a  snowy  vapor  resting 
upon  its  horizon.  This,  however,  was  pointed  out  as  another 
branch  of  the  great  Chippewyan,  or  Rocky  chain ;  being  the 
Eutaw  Mountains,  at  whose  basis  the  wandering  tribe  of  hunt- 
ers of  the  same  name  pitch  their  tents. 

We  can  imagine  the  enthusiasm  of  the  worthy  captain,  when 
he  beheld  the  vast  and  mountainous  scene  of  his  adventurous 
enterjDrise  thus  suddenly  unveiled  before  him.  We  can  imagine 
with  what  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration  he  must  have  con- 
templated the  Wind  River  Sierra,  or  bed  of  mountains ;  that 
great  fountain-head  from  whose  springs,  and  lakes,  and  melted 
snows  some  of  those  mighty  rivers  take  their  rise,  which  wan- 
"ier  over  hundreds  of  miles  of  varied  country  and  clime,  and 
rind  their  way  to  the  opposite  waves  of  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Pacific. 


ADVENT URIiS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  45 

Tlie  Wind  River  IMountains  are,  in  fact,  among  the  most 
remarkable  of  the  whole  Rocky  chain ;  and  would  appear  to  be 
among  the  loftiest.  They  form,  as  it  were,  a  great  bed  of 
mountains,  about  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  from  twenty  to 
thirty  in  breadth;  with  rugged  peaks,  covered  with  eternal 
snows,  and  deep,  narrow  valleys,  full  of  springs,  and  brooks, 
and  rock-bound  lakes.  From  this  great  treasury  of  Avaters 
issue  forth  limpid  streams  which,  augmenting  as  they  descend, 
become  mam  ti'ibutaries  of  the  Missouri  on  the  one  side,  and 
the  Columbia  on  the  other ;  and  give  rise  to  the  Seeds-ke-dee 
Agie,  or  Green  River,  the  great  Colorado  of  the  West,  that 
empties  its  current  into  the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are  notorious  m  hunters'  and 
trappers'  stories:  their  rugged  defiles,  and  the  rough  tracts 
about  their  neighborhood,  having  been  lurking  places  for  the 
predatory  hordes  of  the  mountains,  and  scenes  of  rough  en- 
counter with  Crows  and  Blackfeet.  It  Avas  to  the  west  of 
these  mountams,  in  the  vallej'-  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or 
Green  River,  that  Captain  Bonneville  intended  to  make  a  halt, 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  repose  to  his  people  and  his  horses, 
after  their  Aveary  journeying ;  and  of  collecting  information 
as  to  his  fviture  course.  This  Green  River  Valley,  and  its  im- 
mediate neighborhood,  as  we  have  already  observed,  formed 
the  main  point  of  rendezvous,  for  the  present  year,  of  the  rival 
fur  companies,  and  the  motley  populace,  civilized  and  savage, 
connected  with  them.  Severed  days  of  rugged  travel,  how- 
ever, yet  remained  for  the  captain  and  his  men  before  they 
should  encamp  in  this  desired  resting-place. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  as  they  wei^e  pursuing  their  course 
through  one  of  the  meatlows  of  the  Sweet  Water,  they  beheld 
a  horse  grazing  at  a  little  distance.  He  showed  no  alai'm  at 
'their  approach,  but  suftored  himself  quietly  to  be  taken,  evinc- 
ing a  perfect  state  of  tameness.  The  scouts  of  the  party  w^ere 
instantly  on  the  look-out  for  the  owners  of  this  animal,  lest 
some  dangerous  band  of  savages  might  be  lurking  in  the  A-icin- 
ity.  After  a  narroAv  search,  they  discovered  tlie  trail  of  an 
Indian  party,  which  had  cA'idently  passed  through  that  neigh- 
borhood but  recently.  The  horse  Avas  accordingly  taken  pos- 
session of,  as  an  estray ;  but  a  more  vigilant  watch  than  usual 
was  kept  round  the  camp  at  nights,  lest  his  former  owners 
should  be  upon  the  proAvl. 

The  travellers  had  now  attained  so  high  an  elevation,  that 
on  the  23d  of  July,  at  daybreak,  there  was  considerable  ice  in 


46  ADVENTURliS   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  water-buckets,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  twenty-two 
degrees.  The  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  continued  to  affect  the 
wood-work  of  the  wagons,  and  the  wheels  were  incessantly 
falling  to  pieces.  A  remedy  was  at  length  devised.  The  tire 
of  each  wheel  was  taken  oft";  a  band  of  wood  was  nailed  round 
the  exterior  of  the  felloes,  the  tire  was  then  made  red  hot,  re- 
placed round  the  wheel,  and  suddenly  cooled  with  water.  By 
this  means,  the  whole  was  bound  together  with  great  compact- 
ness. 

The  extreme  elevation  of  these  great  steppes,  which  range 
along  the  feet  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  takes  away  from  the 
seeming  height  of  their  peaks,  which  yield  to  few  in  the 
known  world  in  point  of  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

On  the  24th,  the  travellers  took  final  leave  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  and  keeping  westwardly,  over  a  low  and  very  rocky 
ridge,  one  of  the  most  southern  spurs  of  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains, they  encamped,  after  a  march  of  seven  hours  and  a  half, 
on  the  banks  of  a  small  clear  stream,  running  to  the  south,  in 
which  they  caught  a  number  of  fine  trout. 

The  sight  of  these  fish  was  hailed  with  pleasure,  as  a  sign 
that  they  had  reached  the  waters  winch  flow  into  the  Pacific ; 
for  it  is  only  on  the  western  streams  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
that  trout  are  to  be  taken.  The  stream  on  which  they  had 
thus  encamped  proved,  in  effect,  to  be  tributary  to  the  Seeds- 
ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green  River,  into  which  it  flowed,  at  some  dis- 
tance to  the  south. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  considered  himself  as  having  fairly 
passed  the  crest  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  felt  some  degree  of 
exultation  in  being  the  first  individuol  that  had  crossed,  north 
of  the  settled  provinces  of  Mexico,  from  the  waters  of  the  At- 
lantic to  those  of  the  Pacific,  with  wagons.  Mr.  William  Sub- 
lette, the  enterprising  leader  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany, had,  two  or  three  years  previously,  reached  the  vaUey  of 
the  Wind  River,  which  lies  on  the  northeast  of  the  mountains; 
but  had  proceeded  with  them  no  further. 

A  vast  valley  now  spread  itself  before  the  travellers, 
bounded  on  one  side  by  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  and  to  the 
west  by  a  long  range  of  high  hills.  This,  Captain  Bonneville 
was  assured  by  a  veteran  hunter  in  his  company,  was  the  great 
valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee;  and  the  same  informant  would  have 
fain  persuaded  him  that  a  small  stream,  three  feet  deei'),  which 
he  came  to  on  the  25th,  was  that  river.  The  captain  was  con- 
vinced, however,  that    the  stream  was  too  insignificant  to 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  47 

drain  so  wido  a  valley  and  the  adjacent  mountains:  he  en- 
camped, therefore,  at  an  early  hour,  on  its  borders,  that  ho 
might  take  the  whole  of  the  next  day  to  reach  the  main  river; 
which  he  presimied  to  flow  between  him  and  the  distant  range 
of  western  hills. 

On  the  20th  of  July  he  commenced  his  march  at  an  early 
hour,  making  directly  across  the  valley,  toward  the  hills  in  the 
west ;  proceeding  at  as  bi'isk  a  rate  as  the  jaded  condition  of 
his  horses  Avould  permit.  About  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning 
a  gi'eat  cloud  of  dust  was  descried  in  the  rear,  advancing 
directly  on  the  trail  of  the  party.  The  alarna  was  given;  they 
all  came  to  a  halt,  and  held  a  council  of  war.  Some  conjec- 
tured that  the  band  of  Indians,  whose  trail  they  had  discovered 
in  the  neighborht)od  of  the  stray  horse,  had  been  lying  in  wait 
for  them,  in  some  secret  fastness  of  the  mountains ;  and  were 
about  to  attack  them  on  the  open  plain,  w-here  they  would 
have  no  shelter.  Preparations  wei-e  inunediately  made  for  de- 
fence; and  a  scouting  party  sent  off  to  reconnoitre.  They 
soon  came  galloping  back,  making  signals  that  all  was  Avell. 
The  cloud  of  dust  was  made  by  a  band  of  fifty  or  sixty  mounted 
trappers,  belonging  to  the  American  Fur  Company,  who  soon 
came  up.  leading  their  pack-horses.  They  were  headed  by  Mr. 
Fontenelle,  an  experienced  leader,  or  "  partisan,"  as  a  chief  of 
a  party  is  called  in  the  technical  language  of  the  trappers. 

Mr.  Fontenelle  informed  Captain  Bonneville  that  he  was  on 
his  way  from  the  company's  trading  post  on  the  Yellowstone  to 
the  yearly  rendezvous,  wath  reinforcements  and  supplies  for 
their  hunting  and  trading  parties  beyond  the  mountains;  and 
that  he  expected  to  meet,  by  appointment,  with  a  band  of  free 
trappers  in  that  very  neighborhood.  He  had  fallen  upon  the 
trail  of  Captain  Bonneville's  party,  just  after  leaving  the  Ne- 
braska ;  and,  finding  that  they  had  frightened  off  all  the  game, 
had  been  obliged  to  push  on,  by  forced  marches,  to  avoid 
famine;  both  men  and  horses  were,  therefore,  much  travel- 
worn;  bvit  this  was  no  place  to  halt;  the  plain  before  them  lie 
said,  was  destitute  of  grass  and  water,  neither  of  w^hich  would 
be  met  with  short  of  the  Green  River,  which  Avas  yet  at  a  con- 
siderable distaiice.  He  hoped,  he  added,  as  his  party  were  all 
on  horsebaclc,  to  reach  the  river,  with  hard  travelling,  by 
nightfall;  but  he  doubted  the  possibility  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville's arrival  there  with  his  wagons  before  the  day  following. 
Having  imparted  tliis  information,  ho  pushed  forward  with  all 
speed. 


4S  ADVEM'UUES   OF  CAPTA12^   B02s SEVILLE. 

Captain  Bonneville  followed  on  as  fast  as  circumstances 
Avoiild  permit.  The  ground  was  firm  and  gravelly;  but  the 
horses  were  too  much  fatigued  to  move  rapidly.  After  a  long 
and  harassing  day's  march,  without  pausing  for  a  noontide 
meal,  they  were  compelled  at  nine  o'clock  at  night  to  encamp 
in  an  open  plain,  destitute  of  water  or  pasturage.  On  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  the  horses  were  turned  loose  at  the  peep  oi' 
day,  to  slake  their  tliirst,  if  possible,  from  the  dew  collected 
on  the  sparse  grass,  here  and  thei'e  springing  up  among  dry 
sand-banks.  The  soil  of  a  great  part  of  tliis  Green  Eiver 
vaUcy  is  a  whitish  clay,  into  which  the  rain  cannot  penetrate, 
but  which  dries  and  cracks  with  the  sun.  In  some  places  it 
produces  a  salt  weed,  and  grass  along  the  margins  of  the 
streams ;  but  the  wider  expanses  of  it  are  desolate  and  barren. 
It  was  not  until  noon  that  Captain  Bonneville  reached  the 
banks  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Colorado  of  the  West;  in  the 
mean  time,  the  sufferings  of  both  men  and  horses  had  been 
excessive,  and  it  was  with  almost  fi'antic  eagerness  that  they 
hurried  to  allay  their  burning  thirst  m  the  limpid  current  of 
the  river. 

Fontenolle  and  his  party  had  not  fared  much  better;  the 
chief  part  had  managed  to  reach  the  river  by  nightfall,  but 
were  nearly  knocked  up  by  the  exertion ;  the  horses  of  others 
sank  under  them,  and  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  upon 
the  road. 

On  the  folloning  morning,  July  27,  Fontenelle  moved  his 
camp  across  the  river,  while  Captain  Bonneville  proceeded 
some  little  distance  below,  where  there  was  a  small  but  fresh 
meadow,  yielding  abundant  pasturage.  Here  the  poor  jaded 
horses  Avere  turned  out  to  graze,  and  take  their  rest:  the 
weary  journey  up  the  mountains  had  worn  them  down  in 
flesh  and  spirit ;  but  this  last  march  across  the  thirsty  plain 
had  nearly  finished  them. 

The  captain  had  here  the  first  taste  of  the  boasted  strategy 
of  the  fur  trade.  During  his  brief  but  social  encampment  in 
company  with  Fontenelle,  that  experienced  trapper  had  man- 
aged to  win  over  a  number  of  Delaware  Indians  whom  the 
captain  had  brought  with  him,  by  offering  them  four  hundred 
dollars  each,  for  the  ensuing  autumnal  hunt.  The  captain  was 
some^vhat  astonished  when  he  saw  these  hunters,  on  whose 
services  he  had  calcidated  securely,  suddenly  pack  up  their 
traps,  and  go  over  to  the  rival  camp.  That  he  might  in 
some  measure,  however,  be  even  with  his  competitor,  he  dis- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIX  BONNEVILLE.  49 

patched  two  scouts  to  look  out  for  the  band  of  free  trappers 
who  were  to  meet  Fonteucllo  in  tliis  neighborhood,  and  to  en- 
deavor to  brmg  them  to  his  camp. 

As  it  would  be  necessary  to  remain  some  time  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, that  both  men  and  horses  might  repose,  and  recruit 
their  strength ;  and  as  it  was  a  region  full  of  danger.  Captain 
Bonneville  proceeded  to  fortify  his  camp  with  breastworks  of 
logs  and  jDickets. 

These  precautions  were,  at  that  time,  peculiarly  necessary 
from  the  bands  of  Blackfeet  Indians  which  were  roving  about 
the  neighborhood.  These  savages  are  the  most  dangerous  ban- 
ditti of  the  mountains,  and  the  inveterate  foe  of  the  trappers. 
Tliey  are  Ishmaelites  of  the  first  order ;  always  with  weapon 
in  hand,  ready  for  action.  The  young  braves  of  the  tribe,  wdio 
are  destitute  of  property,  go  to  war  for  booty ;  to  gain  horses, 
and  acquire  the  means  of  setting  up  a  lodge,  supporting  a 
family,  and  entitling  themselves  to  a  seat  in  tlie  public  coun- 
cils. The  veteran  Avarriors  fight  merely  for  the  love  of  the 
thing,  and  the  consequence  which  success  gives  them  among 
their  people. 

They  are  capital  horsemen,  and  are  generally  well  moimted 
on  short,  stout  horses,  similar  to  the  prairie  ponies  to  be  met 
with  at  St.  Louis.  When  on  a  war  party,  however,  they  go 
on  foot,  to  enable  them  to  skulk  through  the  country  with 
greater  secrecy ;  to  keep  in  thickets  and  ravines,  and  use  more 
adroit  subterfuges  and  stratagems.  Their  mode  of  w^arfare  is 
entirely  by  ambush,  surprise,  and  sudden  assaults  in  the  night 
time.  If  they  succeed  in  causing  a  panic,  thoy  dash  forward 
with  headlong  fury :  if  the  enemj^  is  on  the  alert,  and  shows 
no  signs  of  fear,  they  become  wary  and  deliberate  in  their 
movements. 

Some  of  them  are  ai-med  in  the  primitive  style,  with  bows 
and  arrows;  the  greater  part  have  American  fusees,  made 
after  the  fasliion  of  those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
These  they  prociire  at  the  trading  post  of  the  Am.erican  Fur 
Company,  on  iMarias  Eiver,  where  they  trafiic  their  peltries 
for  arms,  ammimition,  clothing,  and  trinkets,  Thcj'  are  ex- 
tremelj'  fond  of  spirituous  liquors  and  tobacco;  for  wliich 
nuisances  they  are  ready  to  exchange,  not  merolj'  their  guns 
and  horses,  but  even  their  wives  nnd  daup:hters.  As  they  are 
a  ti'eacherous  race,  and  have  cherished  a  lurking  hostility  to 
the  whites  ever  since  one  of  their  tribe  was  killed  by  Mr. 
LeAvis,  the  associate  of  General  Clarke  in  his  exploring  expcdi- 


50  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

tio»  across  the  Eocky  Mountains,  the  American  Fur  Company- 
is  obliged  constantly  to  keep  at  that  post  a  garrison  of  sixty  or 
seventy  men. 

Under  the  general  name  of  Blackfeet  are  comprehended  sev- 
eral tribes :  such  as  the  Siu-cies,  the  Peagans,  the  Blood  Indians, 
and  the  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Prairies:  who  roam  about  the 
southern  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri  Rivers, 
together  with  some  other  tribes  further  north. 

The  bands  infesting  the  Wind  Eiver  Mountains,  and  the 
country  adjacent,  at  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating,  were 
Gros  Ventres  of  the  Prairies,  which  are  not  to  be  confounded 
with  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Missouri,  who  keep  about  the  loicer 
part  of  that  river,  and  are  friendly  to  the  white  men. 

Tliis  hostile  band  keeps  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  numbers  about  nine  hundred  fighting  men.  Once 
in  the  course  of  two  or  three  years  they  abandon  their  usual 
abodes,  and  make  a  visit  to  the  Arapahoes  of  the  Arkansas. 
Their  route  lies  either  through  the  Crow  country,  and  the 
Black  Hills,  or  through  the  lands  of  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads, 
Bannacks,  and  Shoshonies.  As  tiicy  enjoy  their  favorite  state 
of  hostility  with  all  these  tribes,  their  expeditions  are  prone  to 
be  conducted  in  the  most  lawless  and  predatory  style ;  nor  do 
they  hesitate  to  extend  their  maraudings  to  any  party  of  white 
men  they  meet  with;  following  their  trails;  hovering  about 
their  camps ;  waylaying  and  dodging  the  caravans  of  the  free 
traders,  and  murdering  the  solitary  trapper.  The  conse- 
quences are  frequent  and  desperate  fights  between  them  and 
the  ' '  mountaineers, "  in  the  wUd  defiles  and  fastnesses  of  the 
Eocky  Mountains. 

Tlie  band  in  question  was,  at  this  time,  on  their  way  home- 
ward from  one  of  their  customary  visits  to  the  Arapahoes; 
and  in  the  ensuing  chapter  ive  shall  treat  of  some  bloody  en- 
counters between  them  and  the  trappers,  which  had  taken 
place  just  before  the  arrival  of  Captain  Bonneville  among  the 
mountains. 


ADVENTURi:S  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  51 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SUBLETTE  AOT)  HIS  BAND  — ROCERT  CAMPBELL — MR.  WYETR  AND 
A  BAND  OP  "  DOWN-EASTERS"— YANKEE  ENTERPRISE — FITZ- 
PATRICK— HIS  ^VDVENTURE  WITH  THE  BLACKFEET— A  RENDEZ- 
VOUS OF  MOUNTAINEERS— THE  BATTLE  OF  PIERRE'S  HOLE— AN 
INDIAN  AMBUSCADE— SUBLETTE'S  RETURN. 

Leaving  Captain  Bonnovillo  and  his  band  ensconced  within 
thoir  fortitiod  camp  in  the  Green  River  valley,  we  shall  step 
back  and  accompany  a  party  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany in  its  progress,  with  supplies  from  St.  Louis,  to  the 
annual  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole.  This  party  consisted  of 
sixty  men,  well  mounted,  and  conducting  a  line  of  pack-horses. 
Th'^y  Avcre  commanded  by  Captain  William  Sublette,  a  part- 
ner in  the  company,  and  one  of  the  most  active,  intrepid,  and 
renowned  leaders  in  this  half  military  kind  of  service.  He 
was  accompanied  by  his  associate  in  business,  and  tried  com- 
panion in  danger,  Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  one  of  the  pioneers  of 
the  trade  beyond  the  mountains,  who  had  commanded  trap- 
ping parties  there  in  times  of  the  gi'catest  peril. 

At  these  worthy  compeers  were  on  their  route  to  the  fron- 
tier, they  fell  in  with  another  expedition,  likewise  on  its  way 
to  the  mountains.  This  was  a  party  of  regular  "  down- 
easters,"  that  is  to  say,  people  of  New  England  who,  with  the 
all-penetrating  and  all-pervading  spirit  of  their  race  were  now 
pushing  thoir  way  mto  a  new  field  of  enterprise  Avith  which 
they  were  totally  unacquainted.  The  party  had  been  fitted 
out  and  was  maintained  and  commanded  by  Mr.  Nathani'^l  J. 
Wyeth,  of  Boston.*  This  gentleman  had  conceived  an  idea 
that  a  profitable  fishery  for  sahnoii  might  be  established  on  the 
Columbia  River,  and  connected  with  the  fur  trade.  He  had, 
accordingly,  invested  caiiital  in  goods,  calculated,  as  he  fup- 
posed,  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  had  enlisted  a  number  of 
eastcra  men  in  liis  employ,  who  had  never  been  in  the  Far 
West,  nor  knew  anything  of  "the  wilderness.  With  these  he 
was  bravely  steering  his  way  across  the  continent,  undismayed 


*  Tn  the  fornipr  nditions  of  this  work  we  have  erroneously  given  this  enterprising 
individual  the  title  of  cap»ain. 


62  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

by  danger,  difficulty,  or  distance,  in  the  same  way  that  a  New 
England  coaster  and  his  neighbors  will  coolly  launch  forth  on 
a  voyage  to  the  Black  Sea  or  a  whaling  cruise  to  the  Pacific. 

With  all  their  national  aptitude  at  expedient  and  resoux'ce, 
Wyeth  and  his  men  felt  themselves  completely  at  a  loss  when 
they  reached  the  frontier,  and  found  that  the  wilderness  re- 
quired experience  and  habitudes  of  which  they  were  totally 
deficient.  Not  one  of  the  party,  excepting  the  leader,  had  ever 
seen  an  Indian  or  handled  a  rifle ;  they  were  without  guide  or 
interpreter,  and  totally  unacquainted  with  "wood  craft  "and 
the  modes  of  making  their  way  among  savage  hordes,  and  sub- 
sisting themselves  during  long  marches  over  wild  mountains 
and  barren  plains. 

In  this  predicament,  Captain  Sublette  found  them,  in  a  man- 
ner becalmed,  or  rather  lam  aground,  at  the  little  frontier  town 
of  Independence  in  Missouri,  and  kindly  took  them  in  tow. 
The  two  parties  travelled  amicably  together ;  the  f I'ontier  men 
of  Sublette's  party  gave  their  Yankee  comrades  some  lessons 
in  hunting,  and  some  insight  into  the  art  and  mystery  of  deal- 
ing with  the  Indians,  and  they  all  arrived  without  accident  at 
the  upper  branches  of  the  Nebraska  or  Flatte  River. 

In  the  course  of  their  march,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  the  partner  of 
the  company  who  was  resident  at  that  time  beyond  the  moun- 
tains, came  down  from  the  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole,  to 
meet  them  and  hurry  them  forward.  He  travelled  in  company 
with  them  until  they  reached  the  Sweet  Water ;  then  taking  a 
couple  of  horses,  one  for  the  saddle  and  the  other  as  a  pack- 
horse,  he  started  off  express  for  Pierre's  Hole,  to  make  arrange- 
ments against  their  arrival,  that  he  might  commence  his 
hunting  campaign  before  the  rival  company. 

Fitzpatrick  was  a  hardy  and  experienced  mountaineer,  and 
knew  all  the  passes  and  defiles.  As  he  was  pursuing  his  lonely 
course  up  the  Green  River  valley,  he  descried  several  horse- 
men at  a  distance,  and  came  to  a  halt  to  reconnoitre.  He  sup- 
posed them  to  be  some  detachment  from  the  rendezvous,  or  a 
party  of  friendly  Indians.  They  pei'ceived  him,  and  setting 
up  the  war-whoop,  dashed  forward  at  fuU  speed;  he  saw  at 
once  his  mistake  and  his  peril  -  they  were  Blackfeet.  Spring- 
ing upon  his  fleetest  horse,  and  abandoning  the  other  to  the 
enemy,  he  made  for  the  mountains  and  succeeded  in  escaping 
up  one  of  the  most  dangerous  defiles.  Hero  ho  concealed 
himself  imtil  he  thought  the  Indians  had  go.ae  off,  when  he 
returned    into  the  valley.    He  was  again  pursued,  lost    his 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  63 

remaining  horse,  and  only  escaped  by  scrambling  up  among 
the  dill's.  For  several  days  he  remained  lurking  among  rocks 
and  precipices  and  almost  famished,  having  but  one  remain- 
ing charge  in  his  rifle,  which  he  kept  for  self-deience. 

In  the  meantime,  Sublette  and  Campbell,  with  their  felloAv- 
traveller,  Wyetli,  had  ])ursued  their  march  immolested,  and 
arrived  in  the  Green  River  valley,  totally  unconscious  that 
there  was  any  lurking  enemy  at  hand.  They  had  encamped 
one  night  on  the  banks  of  a  small  streaan,  which  came  doAvn 
from  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  when  about  midnight  a  band 
of  Indians  burst  upon  their  camp,  with  horrible  yells  and 
whoops,  and  a  discharge  of  guns  and  ari'ows.  Happily  no 
other  harm  was  done  than  wounding  one  mule,  and  causing 
several  horses  to  break  loose  from  their  pickets.  The  camj) 
was  instantly  in  arms ;  but  the  Indians  retreated  with  yells  of 
exultation,  carrying  off  several  of  the  horses  under  covert  of 
the  night. 

This  was  somewhat  of  a  disagi*eeable  foretaste  of  mountain 
life  to  some  of  Wycth's  band,  accustomed  only  to  the  regular 
and  peaceful  life  of  New  England ;  nor  was  it  altogether  to  the 
taste  of  Captain  Sublette's  men,  who  were  chiefly  Creoles  and 
townsmen  from  St.  Louis.  They  continued  their  march  the 
next  morning,  keeping  scouts  ahead  and  upon  their  flanks,  and 
arrived  without  further  molestation  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

The  first  inquiry  of  Captain  Sublette,  on  reacliing  the  ren- 
dezvous, was  for  Fitzpatrick.  He  had  not  arrived,  nor  had 
any  intelhgence  been  received  concerning  him.  Great  uneasi- 
ness was  now  entertained,  lest  he  should  have  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  the  Blackfeet  who  had  made  the  midnight  attack 
upon  the  camp.  It  was  a  matter  of  general  joy,  therefore, 
when  he  made  his  appearance,  conducted  by  tAvo  half-breed 
Iroquois  hunters.  He  had  lurked  for  several  days  among  the 
mountains  until  almost  starved ;  at  length  he  escaped  the  vigi- 
lance of  his  enemies  in  the  night,  and  was  so  fortunate  as  to 
meet  the  two  Iroquois  hunters  who,  being  on  horseback,  con- 
veyed him  without  further  difficulty  to  the  rendezvous.  He 
arrived  thei*e  so  emaciated  that  he  could  scarcely  be  recog- 
nized. 

The  valley  called  Pierre's  Hole  is  about  thiriy  miles  in  length 
and  fifteen  in  width,  bounded  to  the  w-est  and  south  by  low 
and  broken  riflgcs,  and  overlooked  to  the  east  by  three  lofty 
mountains  called  the  three  Tetons,  which  domineer  as  land- 
marks over  a  vast  extent  of  country. 


5-1  ADVE^TUREti  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

A  fine  stream,  fed  by  rivulets  and  mountain  springs,  pours 
through  the  valley  toward  the  noith,  dividing  it  into  nearly 
equal  parts.  The  meadows  on  its  borders  are  broad  and  ex- 
tensive, covered  with  willow  and  Cottonwood  trees,  so  closely 
interlocked  and  matted  together  as  to  be  nearly  impassable. 

In  this  valley  was  congregated  the  motley  populace  connected 
with  the  fur  trade.  Here  the  two  rival  companies  had  their 
encampments,  with  their  retainers  of  all  kinds:  traders,  trap- 
pers, hunters,  and  half-breeds,  assembled  from  all  quarters, 
awaiting  their  yearly  supplies,  and  their  orders  to  start  off  in 
new  du-ections.  Here,  also,  the  savage  tribes  connected  with 
the  trade,  the  Nez  Perces  or  Chopunnish  Indians,  and  Flat- 
heads,  had  pitched  their  lodges  beside  the  streams,  and  Avith 
their  squaws,  awaited  the  distribution  of  goods  and  fineiy. 
There  was,  moreover,  a  band  of  fifteen  free  t]  appers,  com- 
manded by  a  gallant  leader  from  Arkansas,  named  Sinclair, 
who  held  their  encampment  a  little  apart  from  the  rest.  Such 
was  the  wild  and  heterogeneous  assemblage,  amounting  to 
several  hundred  men,  civilized  and  savage,  distributed  in  tents 
and  lodges  in  the  several  camps. 

The  arrival  of  Captain  Sublette  with  supplies  put  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  in  full  activity.  The  wares  and  mer- 
chandise were  quickly  opened,  and  as  quickly  disposed  of  to 
trappers  and  Indians ;  the  usual  excitement  and  revelry  took 
place,  after  which  all  hands  began  to  disperse  to  their  several 
destinations. 

On  the  17th  of  July,  a  small  brigade  of  fourteen  trappers,  led 
by  INIilton  Sublette,  brother  of  the  captain,  set  out  with  the  in- 
tention of  proceeding  to  the  southwest.  They  were  accompa- 
nied by  Sinclair  and  his  fifteen  free  trappers;  "Wyeth,  also,  and 
his  New  England  band  of  beaver  hunters  and  salmon  fishers, 
now  dwindled  down  to  eleven,  took  this  opportunity  to  prose- 
cute their  cruise  in  the  wilderness,  accomiDanied  with  such 
experienced  pilots.  On  the  first  day  they  proceeded  about 
eight  miles  to  the  southeast,  and  encamped  for  the  night,  still 
hi  the  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole.  On  the  folio-wing  morning,  just 
as  they  were  raising  their  camp,  they  observed  a  long  line  of 
people  pouring  down  a  defile  of  the  mountains.  They  at  first 
supposed  them  to  be  Fontenelle  and  his  party,  whose  arrival 
had  been  daily  expected.  Wyeth,  however,  reconnoitred  them 
with  a  spy-glass,  and  soon  perceived  they  were^  Indians.  They 
were  divided  into  two  parties,  forming,  in  the  whole,  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  persons,  men,  women  and  children. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  55 

Some  were  on  horsebaclc,  fantastically  painted  and  arrayed, 
•with  scarlet  blankets  fluttering  in  the  wind.  The  greater  ]jart, 
however,  wei-e  on  loot.  They  had  perceived  the  trappei-s 
before  they  were  themselves  discovered,  and  came  down  yell- 
ing and  whooping  into  the  plain.  On  nearer  approach  thev 
•were  ascertained  to  be  Blackf  eet. 

One  of  the  trappers  of  Sublette's  brigade,  a  half-breed, 
named  Antoinc  Godin,  now  mounted  his  horse,  and  rode  forth 
as  if  to  hold  a  conference.  He  wiis  the  son  of  an  Iioquois 
hunter,  who  liad  been  crueUy  nmrdercd  by  the  Blackfeet  at  a 
small  stream  below  the  mountains,  which  still  bears  his  name. 
In  company  with  Antome  rode  forth  a  P^'lathead  Indian,  whose 
once  ix)werful  tribe  had  been  complett^ly  broken  down  in  their 
•wars  with  the  Blackfeet.  Both  of  them,  therefore,  cherished 
the  most  vengeful  hostility  against  these  marauders  of  the 
mountains.  The  Blackfeet  came  to  a  lialt.  One  of  the  chiefs 
advanced  singly  and  unarmed,  beai-ing  the  pipe  of  peace. 
This  overture  was  certainty  pacific;  but  Antoine  and  the  Flat- 
head were  pi^disposed  to  hostihty,  and  pretended  to  consider 
it  a  treacherous  movement. 

"Is  vour  piece  charged?"  said  Antoine  to  his  red  companion. 

"Itk" 

"Then  cock  it  and  follow  me.'" 

They  met  the  Blackfoot  chief  half-way,  who  extended  his 
hand  in  friendship.     Antoine  gi"asped  it. 

"Fire!"  cried  he. 

The  Flathead  levelled  his  piece,  and  broiight  the  Blackfoot 
to  the  ground,  Antoine  snatched  off  his  scarlet  blanket,  which 
■was  richly  ornamented,  and  galloped  off  with  it  as  a  trophy 
to  the  camp,  the  bullets  of  the  enemy  whistUng  after  him. 
The  Indians  immediately  threw  themselves  into  the  edge  of  a 
fiwamp,  among  w^illows  and  cotton  wood  trees,  interwoven  with 
vines.  Here  they  began  to  fortify  themselves;  the  women 
digging  a  trench,  and  throwing  up  a  breastwork  of  logs  and 
branches,  deep  hid  in  the  bosom  of  the  w^ood,  while  the  war- 
riors skirmished  at  the  edge  to  keep  the  trappers  at  bay. 

Tlio  latter  took  their  station  in  a  ra\ine  in  front,  whence 
they  kept  up  a  scattcrmg  fire.  As  to  Wyoth,  and  his  little 
band  of  "  do^vn-easters,"  they  were  perfectly  astoimued  by  tliis 
second  specimen  of  life  in  the  wHdemess ;  the  men,  being  es- 
pecially unused  to  bush-fighting  and  the  use  of  the  rifle,  were 
at  a  loss  how  to  proceed.  Wyoth,  however,  acted  as  a  skilful 
commander.     He  got  all  his  horses  into  camp  and  secui^d 


56  AD  VENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

them;  then,  making  a  breastwork  of  his  packs  of  goods,  he 
charged  his  men  to  remain  in  garrison,  and  not  to  stir  out  of 
their  fort.  For  himself,  he  mingled  with  the  other  leaders, 
determined  to  take  his  share  in  the  conflict. 

In  the  meantime,  an  express  had  been  sent  ofE  to  the  rendez- 
vous for  reinforcements.  Captain  Sublette  and  his  associate, 
Campbell,  were  at  their  camp  when  the  express  came  galloping 
across  the  plain,  waving  his  cap,  and  giving  the  alai^m ;  ''Black- 
feet!  Blackfeet!  a  fight  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley!— to 
arms !  to  arms !" 

The  alarm  was  passed  from  camp  to  camp.  It  was  a  com- 
mon cause.  Every  one  turned  out  with  horse  and  rifle.  The 
Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads  joined.  As  fast  as  horseman  could 
arm  and  mount  he  galloped  oft' ;  the  valley  was  soon  alive  with 
white  men  and  red  men  scouring  at  full  speed. 

Sublette  ordered  liis  men  to  keep  to  the  camp,  being  recruits 
from  St.  Louis,  and  unused  to  Indian  warfare.  He  and  liis 
friend  Campbell  prepared  for  action.  Throwing  off  their 
coats,  rollmg  up  their  sleeves,  and  arming  themselves  with 
pistols  and  rifles,  they  mounted  their  horses  and  dashed  for- 
ward among  the  first.  As  they  rode  along,  they  made  their 
wills  in  soldier-like  style ;  each  stating  how  his  effects  should 
be  disposed  of  in  case  of  his  death,  and  appointing  the  other 
his  executor. 

The  Blackfeet  warriors  had  supposed  the  brigade  of  Milton 
Sublette  all  the  foes  they  had  to  deal  with,  and  were  aston- 
ished to  behold  the  whole  valley  suddenly  swarming  with 
horsemen,  galloping  to  the  field  of  action.  They  withdrew 
into  their  fort,  which  was  completely. hid  from  sight  in  the 
dark  and  tangled  wood.  Most  of  their  women  and  children 
had  retreated  to  the  mountains.  The  trappers  now  sallied 
forth  and  approached  the  swamp,  firing  into  the  thickets  at 
random ;  the  Blackfeet  had  a  better  sight  at  their  adversaries, 
who  were  in  the  open  field,  and  a  half-breed  was  wounded  in 
the  shoulder. 

When  Captain  Sublette  aiTived.  he  urged  to  penetrate  the 
swamp  and  storm  the  fort,  but  all  hung  back  in  awe  of  the 
dismal  horrors  of  the  place,  and  the  danger  of  attacking  such 
desperadoes  in  their  savage  den.  The  very  Indian  alhes, 
though  accustomed  to  bush-fighting,  regarded  it  as  almost 
impenetrable,  and  full  of  frightful  danger.  Sublette  was  not 
to  be  turned  from  his  purpose,  but  offered  to  lead  the  way  into 
the  swamp.     Campbell  stepped  forward  to  accompany  him. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  57 

Before  entering  the  perilous  wood,  Sublette  took  his  brothers 
aside,  and  told  them  that  in  case  he  fell,  Campbell,  who  knew 
his  will,  was  to  bo  his  executor.  This  done,  he  grasped  his  riflo 
and  pushed  into  the  thickets,  followed  by  Campbell,  Sinclair, 
the  partisan  from  Arkansas,  was  at  the  edge  of  the  wood  with 
liis  brother  and  a  few  of  his  men.  Excited  by  the  gallant  ex- 
ample of  the  two  friends,  he  pressed  forward  to  sliare  their 
dangers. 

The  swamp  was  produced  by  the  labors  of  the  beaver,  which, 
by  damming  up  a  stream,  had  inundated  a  portion  of  the  val- 
ley. The  place  was  all  overgrown  with  woods  and  thickets, 
so  closely  matted  and  entangled  that  it  was  impossible  to  see 
ten  paces  ahead,  and  the  three  associates  in  peril  had  to  crawl 
along  one  after  another,  making  their  way  by  putting  the 
branches  and  vines  aside ;  but  doing  it  with  caution,  lest  they 
should  attract  the  eye  of  some  lurking  marksman.  They  took 
the  lead  by  turns,  each  advancing  about  twenty  yards  at  a 
time,  and  now  and  then  halloomg  to  their  men  to  follow. 
Some  of  the  latter  gradually  entered  the  swamp,  and  followed 
a  little  distance  in  their  rear. 

They  had  now  reached  a  more  open  part  of  the  wood,  and 
had  glimpses  of  the  rude  fortress  from  between  the  trees.  It 
was  a  mere  breastwork,  as  we  have  said,  of  logs  and  branches, 
with  blankets,  buiTalo  robes,  and  the  leathern  covers  of  lodges 
extended  round  the  top  as  a  screen.  The  movements  of  the 
leaders,  as  they  groped  their  way,  had  been  descried  by  the 
sharp-sighted  enemy.  As  Sinclair,  who  was  in  the  advance, 
was  putting  some  branches  aside,  he  Avas  shot  thi-ough  the 
body.  He  fell  on  the  spot.  ''Take  me  to  my  brother,"  said 
he  to  Campbell.  The  latter  gave  him  in  charge  to  some  of  the 
men,  who  conveyed  him  out  of  the  swamp. 

Sublette  now  took  the  advance.  As  he  was  reconnoitring 
the  fort,  he  perceived  an  Indian  peeping  through  an  aperture. 
In  an  instant  his  rifle  was  levelled  and  discharged,  and  the  ball 
struck  the  savage  in  the  eye.  While  he  was  reloading,  he 
called  to  Campbell,  and  pointed  out  to  him  the  hole ;  ' '  Watch 
that  place,"  said  he,  "  and  you  will  soon  have  a  fair  chance  for 
a  shot."  Scarce  had  he  uttei-ed  the  words,  when  a  ball  struck 
him  in  the  shoiilder,  and  almost  wheeled  him  round.  His  first 
thought  was  to  take  hold  of  his  arm  with  his  other  hand,  and 
move  it  up  and  down.  He  ascei'taincd,  to  his  satisfaction, 
that  the  bone  was  not  broken.  The  next  moment  ho  was  so 
faint  that  he  could  not  stand.     Campbell  took  hun  in  his  arms 


nS  ADVEyi^UBES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  cai'ried  him  oiit  of  the  thicket.  The  same  shot  that  struck 
Sublette  wounded  another  man  in  the  head. 

A  brisk  fire  was  now  opened  by  the  mountaineers  from  the 
wood,  answered  occasionally  from  the  fort.  Unluckily,  the 
trappers  and  their  aUies,  in  searching  for  the  fort,  had  got 
scattered  so  that  Wyeth  and  a  number  of  Nez  Perces  ap- 
proached the  fort  on  the  northwest  side,  while  others  did  the 
same  on  the  opposite  quarter.  A  cross-fire  thus  took  place 
which  occasionally  did  mischief  to  friends  as  well  as  foes.  An 
Indian  was  shot  down  close  to  Wyeth,  by  a  baU  which,  he  was 
convmced,  had  been  sped  from  the  rifle  of  a  trapper  on  the 
other  side  of  the  fort. 

The  number  of  whites  and  then-  Indian  allies  had  by  this 
time  so  much  increased  by  arrivals  from  the  rendezvous,  that 
the  Blackfeet  were  completely  overmatched.  They  kept  dog- 
gedly in  their  fort,  however,  making  no  offer  of  surrender. 
An  occasional  firing  into  the  breastwork  was  kept  up  during 
the  day.  Now  and  then  one  of  the  Indian  allies,  in  bravado, 
would  rush  up  to  the  fort,  fire  over  the  ramparts,  tear  off  a 
buffalo  robe  or  a  scarlet  blanket,  and  return  with  it  in  triumph 
to  his  comrades.  Most  of  the  savage  garrison  that  fell,  how- 
ever, were  killed  in  the  first  part  of  the  attack. 

At  one  time  it  was  resolved  to  set  fire  to  the  fort ;  and  the 
squaws  belonging  to  the  allies  were  employed  to  collect  com- 
bustibles. This,  however,  was  abandoned;  the  Nez  Perces 
being  unwilling  to  destroy  the  robes  and  blankets,  and  other 
spoils  of  the  enemy,  w^hich  they  felt  sure  would  fall  into  their 
hands. 

Tlie  Indians,  when  fighting,  are  prone  to  taunt  and  revile 
each  other.  During  one  of  the  pauses  of  the  battle  the  voice 
of  the  Blackfeet  chief  was  heard. 

"  So  long,"  said  he,  "as  we  had  powder  and  ball,  we  fought 
you  in  the  open  field:  when  those  were  spent,  Ave  retreated 
here  to  die  with  our  women  and  children.  You  may  burn  us 
in  our  fort ;  but,  stay  by  our  ashes,  and  you  who  are  so  lumgry 
for  fighting  will  soon  have  enough.  There  are  four  hundred 
lodges  of  our  brethren  at  hand.  They  will  soon  be  here — their 
arms  are  strong — their  hearts  are  big — they  will  avenge  us !" 

This  speech  was  translated  two  or  three  times  by  Nez  Perce 
and  Creole  interpreters.  By  the  time  it  was  rendered  into 
English,  the  cliief  was  made  to  say  that  four  hundred  lodges 
of  his  tribe  were  attacking  tlie  encampment  at  the  other  end 
of  the  valley.     Every  one  now  was  for  hurrying  to  the  de- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  m 

fence  of  the  rendezvous.  A  pnrty  was  left  to  keep  watch  upon 
tlie  lort;  the  rest  galloped  off  to  the  camp.  As  night  came  on, 
the  trai>pers  di'cw  out  of  the  swamp,  and  remained  about  the 
skirts  of  the  wood.  By  morning,  their  companions  returned 
from  the  rendezvous,  with  the  report  that  all  was  safe.  As 
the  day  opened,  they  ventured  within  the  swamp  and  ap- 
proaclied  the  fort.  All  was  silent.  Tliey  advanced  up  to  it 
without  opposition.  They  entered:  it  had  been  abandoned  in 
the  night,  and  the  Blackfeet  had  elfected  their  retreat,  cai-ry- 
ing  olf  their  wounded  on  litters  made  of  branches,  leaving 
bloody  traces  on  the  herbage.  The  bodies  of  ten  Indians  were 
found  within  the  fort ;  among  them  the  one  shot  in  the  eye  by 
Bublette.  The  Blackfeet  alterwai'd  reported  that  they  had  lost 
twenty-six  warriors  in  this  battle.  Thirty -two  horses  were 
likewise  found  killed;  among  them  were  some  of  those  re- 
cent I3  carried  oil  from  Sublette's  party,  in  the  night;  wliich 
showed  that  these  were  the  very  savages  that  had  attacked 
him.  They  proved  to  be  an  advance  party  of  the  main  body 
of  Blackfeet,  which  had  been  upon  the  trail  of  Sublette's  party. 
Five  white  men  and  one  half-breed  were  killed,  and  several 
wounded.  Seven  of  the  Nez  Perccs  were  also  killed,  and  six 
wounded.  They  had  an  old  chief  who  was  reputed  as  invul- 
nerable. In  the  course  of  the  action  he  was  hit  by  a  spent 
ball,  and  threw  up  blood ;  but  his  skin  was  unbroken.  His 
people  vv^ere  now  fully  convinced  that  he  was  proof  against 
powder  and  ball. 

A  strilcing  circumstance  is  related  as  having  occuri-ed  the 
morning  after  the  battle.  As  soHie  of  the  trappers  and  their 
Indian  allies  were  approaching  the  fort,  through  the  woods, 
they  beheld  an  Indian  woman,  of  noble  form  and  features, 
leaning  against  a  tree.  Their  surprise  at  her  lingering  here 
alone,  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  her  enemies,  was  dispelled, 
when  they  saw  the  corpse  of  a  warrior  at  her  feet.  Either 
she  was  so  lost  in  grief  as  not  to  perceive  theii*  approach;  or  a 
proud  spirit  kept  her  silent  and  motionless.  The  Indians  set 
up  a  yell,  on  discovering  her,  and  before  the  trappers  could  in- 
terfere, her  mangled  body  fell  upon  the  corpse  which  she  had 
refused  to  abandon.  "We  have  heard  this  anecdote  discredited 
by  one  of  the  leaders  who  had  been  in  the  battle:  but  the  fact 
may  have  taken  place  without  his  seeing  it,  and  been  con- 
cealed from  liim.  It  is  an  instance  of  female  devotion,  even  to 
the  death,  which  we  are  well  disposed  to  believe  and  to  record. 

After  the  battle,  the  brigade  of  Milton  Sublette,  together 


60  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

with  the  free  trappers,  and  Wyeth's  New  England  band,  re- 
mained some  days  at  the  rendezvous,  to  see  if  the  main  body 
of  Blackfeet  intended  to  make  an  attack ;  nothing  of  the  kind 
occuri'ing,  they  once  more  put  themselves  in  motion,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  their  route  toward  the  southwest. 

Captain  Sublette  having  distributed  his  supplies,  had  in- 
tended to  set  ofE  on  his  return  to  St.  Louis,  taking  with  liim 
the  peltries  collected  from  the  trappers  and  Indians.  His 
wound,  however,  obliged  him  to' postpone  his  departure.  Sev- 
eral who  were  to  have  accompanied  liim  became  impatient 
of  this  delay.  Among  these  was  a  young  Bostonian,  Mr. 
Joseph  More,  one  of  the  followers  of  Mr.  Wyeth,  who  had  seen 
enough  of  mountain  life  and  savage  warfare,  and  was  eager  to 
return  to  the  abodes  of  civilization.  He  and  six  others,  among 
whom  were  a  Mr.  Foy,  of  Mississippi,  Mr.  Alfred  K.  Stephens, 
of  St.  Louis,  and  two  grandsons  of  the  celebrated  Daniel 
Boone,  set  out  together,  in  advance  of  Sublette's  party,  think- 
ing they  would  make  their  own  way  through  the  mountains. 

It  was  just  five  days  after  the  battle  of  the  swamp,  that 
these  seven  companions  were  making  their  way  through  Jack- 
son's Hole,  a  valley  not  far  from  the  three  Tetons,  when,  as 
they  were  descending  a  hill,  a  party  of  Blackfeet  that  lay  in 
ambush  started  up  with  terrific  yells.  The  horee  of  the  young 
Bostonian,  who  was  in  front,  wheeled  round  with  affright,  and 
threw  his  unskilful  rider.  The  young  man  scrambled  up  the 
side  of  the  hill,  but,  unaccustomed  to  such  wild  scenes,  lost 
his  presence  of  mind,  and  stood,  as  if  paralyzed,  on  the  edge 
of  a  bank,  until  the  Blackfeet  came  up  and  slew  him  on  the 
spot.  His  comrades  had  fled  on  the  first  alarm;  but  two  of 
them,  Foy  and  Stephens,  seeing  his  danger  paused  when  they 
got  half  way  up  the  liiD,  turned  back,  dismounted,  and  has- 
tened to  his  assistance.  Foy  was  instantly  killed.  Stephens 
wa3  severely  wounded,  but  escaped  to  die  five  days  afterward. 
The  survivors  returned  to  the  camp  of  Captain  Sublette,  bring- 
ing tidings  of  this  new  disaster.  That  hardy  learler,  as  soon  as 
he  could  bear  the  journey,  set  out  on  his  return  to  St.  Louis, 
accompanied  by  Campbell.  As  they  had  a  number  of  pack- 
horses  richly  laden  with  peltries  to  convoy,  they  chose  a  dif- 
ferent route  through  the  mountains,  out  of  the  way,  as  they 
hoped,  of  the  litrking  bands  of  Blackfeet.  They  succeeded  in 
making  the  frontier  in  safety.  We  remember  to  have  seen 
them  with,  thoir  band,  about  two  or  three  months  afterward, 
passing  through  a  skirt  of  woodland  in  the  upper  part  of  Mis- 


ADVFjNTURES  of  captain  BONNEVILLE.  6X 

souri.  Thoir  long;  cavalcade  stretched  in  sint^^le  file  Tor  nearly 
half  a  mile.  Sublette  still  wore  his  arm  in  a  sling.  The  moun- 
taineers in  their  rude  hunting  dresses,  armed  with  lifles  and 
roughly  mounted,  and  leading  their  pack-horses  down  a  hill  of 
the  forest,  looked  like  banditti  returning  with  plunder.  On 
the  top  of  some  of  the  packs  were  perched  several  half-breed 
children,  perfect  little  imps,  with  wild  black  eyes  glaring  from 
among  elf  locks.  These,  I  was  told,  were  children  of  the 
trappers;  pledges  of  love  from  their  squaw  spouses  in  the 
wilderness. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


RETREAT  OF  THE  CLACICFEET — FONTENELLE'S  CAMP  IN  DANGER 
— CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  AND  THE  BLACKFEET — FREE  TRAPI'ERS 
-••THEIR  CHARACTER,  HABITS,  DRESS,  EQUIPMENTS,  HORSES — 
GAME  FELLOWS  OP  THE  MOUNTAINS — THEIR  VISIT  TO  THE 
CAMP— GOOD  FELLOWSHIP  AND  GOOD  CHEER— A  CAROUSE — A 
SWAGGER,   A  BRA\VL,,   AND  A  RECONCILIATION. 

The  Blackfeet  warriors,  Avhen  they  effected  their  midnight 
retreat  from  their  wild  fastness  in  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  back  into 
the  valley  of  the  Seeds-kc-dee,  or  Green  Piver,  where  they 
joined  the  main  body  of  their  band.  The  whole  force 
amounted  to  several  hundred  fighting  men,  gloomy  and  exas- 
perated by  their  late  disaster.  They  had  with  them  their 
wives  and  children,  which  incapncitated  them  from  any  bold 
and  extensive  entei-prise  of  a  warlike  nature ;  but  when,  in  the 
course  of  their  wanderings,  they  came  in  sight  of  the  encamp- 
ment of  Fontonelle,  wlio  lind  rnoved  some  distance  up  Green 
River  valley  in  search  of  the  free  trappers,  they  put  up  tre- 
mondons  war-cries,  and  advanced  fiercely  as  if  to  attack  it. 
Second  thoTic:hts  caused  them  to  moderate  their  fury.  They 
recollected  the  severe  lesson  just  received,  and  could  not  but 
remark  the  strength  of  Fontenelle's  position ;  which  had  b'^en 
chosen  with  grent  .judgment.  A  formal  talk  ensued.  Tlio 
Blnr-kfeet  said  nothing  of  the  late  bnttle,  of  which  Fontonello 
hnd  ns  yet  received  no  accounts;  the  latter,  however,  knew  the 
hostile  and  perfidious  nature  of  these  savages,  and  took  care  to 
i'-'form  them  of  the  enenmpment  of  Gnptnin  Ponneville,  that 
they  might  know  there  were  more  white  men  in  the  neighbor- 
iiood. 


62        ADVi':yTunES  of  cAPTArx  bonnevtllii:. 

The  conferencG  ended,  Fontenclle  sent  ,a  Delaware  Indian  of 
his  party  to  conduct  fifteen  of  the  Blackfeet  to  the  camp  of 
Captain  BonneviUe.  There  were  at  that  time  two  Crow  In- 
dians in  the  captain's  camp  who  had  i-eccntly  arrived  there. 
They  looked  with  dismay  upon  this  deputation  from  their  im- 
placable enemies,  and  gave  the  captain  a  terrible  character  of 
them,  assuring  him  that  the  best  thing  he  could  possibly  do 
was  to  put  those  Blackfeet  deputies  to  death  on  the  spot.  The 
captain,  however,  who  had  heard  nothing  of  the  conflict  at 
Pierre's  Hole,  declined  all  compliance  with  this  sage  counsel. 
He  treated  the  grim  warriors  with  his  usual  urbanity.  They 
passed  some  little  time  at  the  camp ;  saw,  no  doubt,  that  every- 
thing was  conducted  with  military  skill  and  ^dgilance ;  and 
that  such  an  enemy  was  not  to  be  easily  surj^rised,  nor  to  be 
molested  with  impunity,  and  then  departed,  to  report  all  that 
they  had  seen  to  their  comrades. 

The  two  scouts  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  sent  oift  to 
seek  for  the  band  of  free  trappers,  expected  by  FonteneUe,  and 
to  invite  them  to  his  camp,  had  been  successful  in  their  search, 
and  on  the  12th  of  August  those  vf  orthies  made  their  appear- 
ance. 

To  explain  the  meaning  of  the  appellation  free  trapper  it  is 
necessary  to  state  the  terms  on  which  the  men  enlist  in  the 
service  of  the  fur  companies.  Some  have  regular  wages  and 
are  furnished  with  weapons,  horses,  traps,  and  other  requisites. 
Tliese  are  under  command,  and  bound  to  do  every  duty  re- 
quired of  them  connected  with  the  service ;  such  as  hunting, 
trapping,  loading  and  unloading  the  horses,  mounting  guard ; 
and,  in  short,  all  the  drudgery  of  the  camp.  These  are  the 
hii'cd  ti'appers. 

The  free  trappers  are  a  more  independent  class ;  and  in  do- 
scribing  them  Ave  shall  do  little  more  than  transcribe  the  gi'a- 
phic  description  of  them  by  Captain  Bonneville.  "They  come 
and  go,"  says  he,  "when  and  where  they  please;  provide  their 
r>wn  horses,  arms,  and  other  equipments:  trap  and  trade  on 
their  own  account,  and  dispose  of  their  skins  and  peltries  to 
the  highest  bidder.  Sometimes,  in  a  dangerous  hunting 
ground,  they  attach  themselves  to  the  camp  of  some  trader 
for  protection.  Here  they  come  under  some  restrictions ;  they 
have  to  conform  to  the  ordinary  rules  for  trapping,  and  to  sub- 
mit to  such  restraints  and  to  take  part  in  such  general  duties 
as  are  established  for  the  good  order  and  safety  of  the  camp. 
In  return  for  this  protection,  and  for  their  camp  keeping,  they 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  63 

are  bound  to  dispose  of  all  the  beaver  they  take  to  the  trader 
who  commands  the  camp,  at  a  certain  rate  per  skin ;  or,  should 
they  prefer  seekinu;  a  market  elsewhere,  they  are  to  make  him 
an  allowance  of  Irom  thirty  to  forty  dollars  for  the  whole 
hunt." 

There  is  an  inferior  order  who,  cither  from  prudence  or 
povoriy,  come  to  these  dangerous  hunting  grounds  without 
horses  or  accoutrements,  and  are  furnished  by  the  traders. 
These,  like  the  hired  trappers,  are  bound  to  exert  themselves 
to  the  utmost  in  taking  beaver,  which,  without  skinning,  they 
render  in  at  the  trader's  lodge,  where  a  stipulated  price  for 
each  is  placed  to  their  credit.  These,  though  gonei'ally  in- 
cluded in  the  generic  name  of  free  trappere,  have  the  more 
specific  title  of  skin  trappers. 

The  wandering  whites  who  mingle  for  any  length  of  time 
with  the  savages  have  invariably  a  proneness  to  adopt  savage 
habitudes ;  but  none  more  so  than  the  free  trappers.  It  is  a 
matter  of  vanity  and  ambition  with  them  to  discard  every- 
thing that  may  bear  the  stamp  of  civilized  life,  and  to  adopt 
the  manners,  habits,  dress,  gesture,  and  even  walk  of  the  In- 
dian. You  cannot  pay  a  free  trapper  a  greater  compliment 
than  to  pei'suade  him  you  have  mistaken  him  for  an  Indian 
brave;  and  in  truth  the  counter feit  is  com]:)lete.  His  hair, 
suffered  to  attain  to  a  great  length,  is  carefully  combed  out, 
and  either  left  to  fail  carelessly  over  his  shoulders,  or  plaited 
neatly  and  tied  up  in  otter  skins  of  parti -colored  ribbons.  A 
hunting-shirt  of  rufHod  calico  of  bright  dyes,  or  of  ornamented 
leather,  falls  to  his  knee:  below  which,  curiously  fashioned 
leggins.  ornamented  with  strings,  fringes,  and  a  profusion  of 
hawks'  bells,  reach  to  a  costly  pair  of  mocrasons  of  the  finest 
Indian  fabric,  richly  embroidered  with  beads.  A  blanket  of 
scarlet,  or  some  other  briglit  color,  hangs  from  his  shoulders. 
and  is  girt  round  his  waist  with  a  red  sash,  in  which  he  be- 
stows his  pistols,  knife,  and  the  stem  of  his  Indian  pipe ;  pre- 
parations either  for  peace  or  war.  His  gun  is  lavishly  deco- 
rated with  brass  tacks  and  vcmiilion,  and  provided  with  a 
fringed  cover,  occasionally  of  buckskin,  ornamented  here  and 
there  with  a  feather.  Flis  horse,  the  noble  minister  to  tho 
pride,  pleasure,  and  profit  of  the  mountaineer,  is  selected  for 
his  speed  and  spirit  and  pranciiig  gait,  and  holds  a  place  in  his 
estimation  second  only  to  himself.  Ho  shares  largely  of  his 
bounty,  and  of  his  pride  and  pomp  of  trapping.  lie  is  ca- 
parisoned in  tho  most  dashing  and  fantastic  style ;  tho  bridles 


64  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTJJy  BONNEVILLE. 

and  crupper  are  weightily  embossed  with  beads  and  cockades; 
and  head,  mane  and  tail  are  interwoven  with  abundance  of 
eagles'  plumes  which  flutter  in  the  wind.  To  complete  this 
grotesque  equipment,  the  proud  animal  i.5  bestreaked  and  be- 
spotted  with  vermilion,  or  with  white  clay,  whichever  presents 
the  most  glaring  contrast  to  his  real  color. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  these 
rangers  of  the  wilderness,  and  their  appearance  at  the  camj) 
was  strikingly  characteristic.  They  came  dashing  forward  at 
full  speed,  firing  their  fusees  and  yelling  in  Indian  style.  Their 
dark  sunburned  faces,  and  long  flowing  hair,  their  leggms, 
flags,  moccasons,  and  richly-dyed  blankets,  and  their  painted 
horses  gaudily  caparisoned,  gave  them  so  much  the  air  and 
appearance  of  Indians  that  it  was  diflBcult  to  persuade  one's 
self  that  they  were  white  men,  and  had  been  brought  up  in 
civilized  life. 

Captain  Bonneville,  who  was  dehghted  with  the  game  look 
of  these  cavahers  of  the  mountains,  welcomed  them  heartily  to 
his  camp,  and  ordered  a  free  allowance  of  grog  to  regale  them, 
which  soon  put  them  in  the  most  braggart  spirits.  They  pro- 
nounced the  captain  the  finest  fellow  m  the  world,  and  his 
men  all  bons  garcons,  jovial  lads,  and  swore  they  would  pass 
the  day  with  them.  They  did  so;  and  a  day  it  was,  of  boast, 
and  swagger,  and  rodomontade.  The  prime  bullies  and  braves 
among  the  free  trappers  had  each  his  circle  of  novices,  from, 
among  the  captain's  band;  mere  greenhorns,  men  unused  to 
Indian  life;  mangeurs  cle  lard,  or  pork-eaters;  as  such  new- 
comers are  superciliously  called  by  the  \'eterans  of  the  wilder- 
ness. These  he  would  astonish  and  delight  by  the  hour,  with 
prodigious  tales  of  his  doings  among  the  Indians ;  and  of  the 
wonders  he  had  seen,  and  the  wonders  he  had  performed,  ia 
his  adventurous  ^peregrinations  among  the  mountains. 

In  the  evening,  the  free  trappers  drew  off,  and  returned  to  the 
camp  of  Fontenelle,  highly  delighted  with  their  visit,  and  v/ith 
their  new  acquaintances,  and  promising  to  return  the  follow- 
ing day.  They  kept  their  word;  day  after  day  their  visits 
Avere  repeated;  they  became  "hail  fellow  weU  met"  with 
Captain  Bonneville's  men;  treat  after  treat  succeeded,  until 
both  parties  got  most  potently  convinced,  or  rather  con- 
founded, by  liquor.  Now  came  on  confusion  and  uproar.  The 
free  trappers  were  no  longer  suffered  to  have  all  the  swagger 
to  themselves.  The  ca,mp  bullies  and  prime  trappers  of  the 
party  began  to  ruffle  up  and  to  brag,  in  tiu-n,  of  their  perils 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAVTaIn  BONNEVILLE. 


G5 


and  achieveraents.  Each  now  tried  to  out-boast  and  out- 
talk  the  othei" ;  a  quarrel  ensued,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  a 
general  fight,  according  to  frontier  usage.  The  two  factions 
drew  out  their  forces  for  a  pitched  battle.  They  fell  to  work 
and  belabored  each  other  with  might  and  main;  kicks  and 
cuffs  and  dry  bloAvs  wei-e  as  well  bestowed  as  they  were 
well  merited,  until,  having  fought  to  their  hearts'  content, 
and  been  drubbed  mto  a  familiar  acquaintance  with  each 
other's  prowess  and  good  quahties,  they  ended  the  fight  by  be- 
coming firmer  friends  than  they  could  have  been  rendei-cd  by 
a  year's  peaceable  companionship. 

While  Captain  Bonneville  amused  himself  by  observing  the 
habits  and  characteristics  of  this  singular  class  of  men,  and  in- 
dulged them,  tor  the  time,  in  all  their  vagaries,  he  profited  by 
the  opportunity  to  collect  from  them  information  concerning 
the  different  pai'ts  of  the  country  about  which  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  range ;  the  characters  of  the  tribes,  and,  in  short, 
everything  important  to  his  entorprise.  He  also  succeeded  in 
securing  the  services  of  several  to  guide  and  aid  him  in  his 
peregrinations  among  the  mountains,  and  to  trap  f(jr  him 
during  the  ensuing  season.  Having  strengthened  his  party 
with  such  valuable  recruits,  he  felt  in  some  measure  consoled 
for  the  loss  of  the  Delaware  Indians,  decoyed  from  him  by  Mr. 
Fontenclle. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

PLANS  FOR  THE  WINTER — SALMON  RIVER— ABUNDANCE  OF  SAL- 
MON WEST  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS — NEW  ARRANGEMENTS— CACHES 
^CERRE'S  detachment— MOVEMENTS  IN  FONTENELLE'S  CAMP 
— DEPARTURE  OF  THE  BLACKFEET— THEIR  FORTUNHS— WIND 
MOUNTAIN  STREAMS— BUCKEYE,  THE  DELAWARE  HUNTEK,  AND 
THE  GRIZZLY  BEAR — BONES  OF'  MURDERED  TRAVELLERS — VISIT 
TO  PIERRE'S  HOLE- TRACES  OF  THE  BATTLE— NEZ  PERCE  IN- 
DIANS—ARRIVAL AT  SALMON  RIVKR. 

The  information  derived  from  the  free  tra])pera  determined 
Captain  Bonneville  as  to  his  further  movements.  He  learned 
that  in  the  G  reen  River  valley  the  "winters  were  severe,  the 
snow  frequently  falling  to  the  depth  of  several  feet ;  and  that 
there  was  no  good  wintering  ground  in  the  neighborhood. 


66  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

The  upper  part  of  Salmon  River  was  represented  as  far  more 
eligible,  besides  being  in  an  excellent  beaver  country;  and 
thither  the  captain  resolved  to  bend  his  course. 

The  Salmon  Eiver  is  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the  Oregon 
or  Columbia ;  and  takes  its  rise  from  various  sources,  among  a 
group  of  mountains  to  the  northwest  of  the  Wind  River  chain. 
It  owes  its  name  to  the  immense  shoals  of  salmon  which  as- 
cend it  in  the  months  of  September  and  October.  The  salmon 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are,  hke  the  buffalo 
on  the  eastern  plans,  vast  migratory  supplies  for  the  wants  of 
man,  that  come  and  go  with  the  seasons.  As  the  buffalo  in 
countless  throngs  find  their  certain  way  in  the  transient  pas- 
turage on  the  prairies,  along  the  fresh  banks  of  the  rivers,  and 
up  every  valley  and  green  defile  of  the  mountains,  so  the  sal- 
mon, at  their  allotted  seasons,  regulated  by  a  subhme  and  all- 
seeing  Providence,  swarm  in  myriads  up  the  great  rivers,  and 
find  their  way  up  their  main  branches,  and  into  the  minutest 
tributary  streams;  so  as  to  pervade  the  great  arid  j)lains,  and 
to  penetrate  even  among  barren  mountains.  Thus  wandering 
tribes  are  fed  in  the  desert  places  of  the  wilderness,  where  there 
is  no  herbage  for  the  animals  of  the  chase,  and  where,  but  for 
these  periodical  supplies,  it  would  be  impossible  for  man  to 
subsist. 

The  rapid  currents  of  the  rivers  which  run  into  the  Pacific 
render  the  ascent  of  them  very  exhausting  to  the  salmon. 
When  the  fish  first  run  up  the  rivers,  they  are  fat  and  in  fine 
order.  The  struggle  against  impetuous  streams  and  frequent 
rapids  gradually  renders  them  thin  and  weak,  and  great  num- 
bers are  seen  floating  down  the  rivers  on  their  backs.  As  the 
season  advances  and  the  water  becomes  chilled,  they  are  flung 
in  myriads  on  the  shores,  where  the  wolves  and  bears  assem- 
ble to  banquet  on  them.  Often  they  rot  in  such  quantities 
along  the  river  banks,  as  to  taint  the  atmosphere.  They  are 
commonly  from  two  to  three  feet  long. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  made  his  arrangements  for  the 
autumn  and  the  winter.  The  nature  of  the  country  through 
wliich  he  was  about  to  travel  rendered  it  impossible  to  proceed 
with  wagons.  He  had  more  goods  and  supplies  of  various 
kinds,  also,  than  were  required  for  present  purposes,  or  than 
could  be  conveniently  transported  on  horseback ;  aided,  there- 
fore, by  a  few  confidential  men,  he  made  caches^  or  secret  pits, 
during  the  night,  when  all  the  rest  of  the  camp  were  asleep, 
and  in  these  deposited  the  superfluous  effects,  together  with 


ADVJ:NTUHI:s   of  CAl'lAiy  BO^^NKVILr.E.  67 

the  wagons.  All  traces  of  the  caches  were  then  carefully 
obliterated.  This  is  a  common  expedient  with  the  traders  and 
trappers  of  the  mountains.  Havuig  no  established  posts  and 
magazines,  they  make  these  caches  or  deposits  at  certain 
points,  whither  they  repair  occasionally,  for  sujjplies.  It  is  an 
expedient  derived  from  the  wandering  tribes  of  Indians. 

Many  of  the .  horses  were  stiU  so  weak  and  lame  as  to  be 
imfit  for  a  long  scramble  through  the  mountains.  These  were 
collected  into  one  cavalcade,  and  given  in  charge  to  an  experi- 
enced trapper,  of  the  name  of  Matthieu.  He  was  to  proceed 
westward,  with  a  brigade  of  trappers,  to  Bear  River;  a  stream 
to  the  west  of  the  Green  River  or  Colorado,  Avhere  there  was 
good  pasturage  for  the  horses.  In  this  neighborhood  it  was 
expected  he  would  meet  the  Shoshonie  villages  or  bands,*  on 
their  yearly  migrations,  with  whom  he  was  to  trade  for  peltries 
and  provisions.  After  he  had  traded  with  these  people,  finished 
his  trapping,  and  recruited  the  strength  of  the  horses,  he  was 
to  proceed  to  Salmon  River,  and  rejoin  Captain  Bonneville, 
who  intended  to  fix  his  quarters  there  for  the  winter. 

While  these  arrangements  were  in  progress  in  the  camp  of 
Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  a  sudden  bustle  and  stir  in  the 
camp  of  Fontenelle.  One  of  the  partners  of  the  American  Fur 
Company  had  arrived,  in  all  haste,  from  the  rendezvous  at 
Pierre's  Hole,  in  quest  of  the  supplies.  The  competition  be- 
tween the  two  rival  companies  was  just  now  at  its  height,  and 
prosecuted  with  unusual  zeal.  The  tramontane  concerns  of 
the  Rocky  ]\Iountain  Fur  Company  were  manajred  by  two 
resident  partners,  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger;  those  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  by  Vanderburgh  and  Dripps.  The 
latter  were  ignorant  of  the  mountain  regions,  but  trusted  to 
make  up  by  vigilance  and  activity  for  their  Avant  of  knoAvledge 
of  the  country. 

Fitzpatrick,  an  experienced  trader  and  trapper,  knew  the 
evils  of  competition  in  the  same  hunting  grounds,  and  had 
proposed  that  tlie  two  companies  should  divide  the  coimtry,  so 
as  to  hunt  in  different  directions:  this  proposition  being  re- 
jected, he  had  exerted  himself  to  get  first  into  the  field.  His 
exertions,  as  have  already  been  shoAvn,  were  effectual.    The 

*  .\  village  of  Indians,  in  trappers'  lanfT'iapp.  dors  not  always  imply  a  fixed  oom- 
r.iniiity:  hut  often  a  wanderinp  horde  or  band.  The  Shoshonies.  like  most  of  the 
mountain  tribes,  have  no  settled  residences;  but  are  a  nomadic  people,  dwelling  in 
tents  or  lodges,  and  shifting  their  encampments  from  place  to  place,  according  as 
fish  and  game  abound. 


68  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

early  arrival  of  Sublette,  with  supplies,  had  enabled  the  vari- 
ous brigades  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company  to  start  ott"  to 
their  respective  hunting  grounds.  Fitzpatrick  himself,  with 
liis  associate,  Bridger,  had  pushed  off  with  a  strong  party  of 
trappers,  for  a  prime  beaver  country  to  the  north-northwest. 

This  had  put  Vanderburgh  ui^on  his  mettle.  He  had  lias- 
tened  on  to  meet  Fontenelle.  Finding  him  at  his  camp  in 
Green  Eiver  valley,  he  immediately  furnished  himself  with 
the  supplies ;  put  himseK  at  the  head  of  the  free  trappers  and 
Delawares,  and  set  off  with  all  speed,  determined  to  follow 
hard  upon  the  heels  of  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger.  Of  the  ad- 
ventures of  these  parties  among  the  mountains,  and  the  dis- 
astrous effects  of  their  competition,  we  shall  have  occasion  to 
treat  in  a  future  chapter. 

FonteneUe,  having  now  delivered  his  supplies  and  accom- 
plished his  errand,  struck  his  tents  and  set  oft'  on  his  return  to 
the  Yellowstone.  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  band,  therefore, 
reaiained  alone  in  the  Green  River  valley ;  and  their  situation 
might  have  been  perilous,  had  the  Blackfeet  band  still  ling- 
ered in  the  vicinity.  Those  marauders,  however,  had  been 
dismayed  at  finding  so  many  resolute  and  well-appointed  par- 
ties of  wdiite  men  in  this  neighborhood.  They  had,  therefore, 
abandoned  this  part  of  the  country,  passing  over  the  head- 
watei's  of  the  Green  River,  and  bending  their  course  toward 
the  Yellowstone.  Misfortune  pursued  them.  Their  route  lay 
through  the  country  of  their  deadly  enemies,  the  Crows.  In 
the  Wind  River  valley,  which  lies  east  of  the  mountains,  they 
were  encountered  by  a  powerful  war  party  of  that  tribe,  and 
completely  put  to  rout.  Forty  of  them  were  killed,  many  of 
their  women  and  chOdren  captured,  and  the  scattered  fugitives 
hunted  hke  wild  beasts,  until  they  w^ere  completely  chased  out 
of  the  Crow  country. 

On  the  22d  of  August  Captain  Bonneville  broke  up  his 
camp,  and  set  out  on  his  route  for  Salmon  River.  His  bag- 
gage was  arranged  in  packs,  three  to  a  mule,  or  pack-horse; 
one  being  disposed  on  each  side  of  the  animal,  and  one  on 
the  top ;  the  three  forming  a  load  of  from  one  hundred  and 
eighty  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  pounds.  This  is  the  trap- 
pers' style  of  loading  their  pack-horses.  His  men,  however, 
were  inexpert  at  adjiisting  the  packs,  which  were  prone  to  get 
loose  and  slip  off,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  keep  a  rear-guard 
to  assist  in  reloading.  A  few  days'  experience,  however, 
brought  them  into  proper  training. 


•       ADVENTURES  OF  CAVTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  CO 

Their  march  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dco,  over- 
looked to  the  right  by  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Wind  River 
Mountains.  tVom  bi'ight  httlo  lakes  and  fountain-heads  of 
this  remarkable  bod  of  mountains  poured  forth  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee.  Some  came  rushing  down  gullies 
and  ravines;  others  tumbling  in  ci-ystal  cascades  from  in- 
acH?ossible  clefts  and  roclcs,  and  others  winding  their  way  in 
rapid  and  pellucid  currents  across  the  valley,  to  throw  them- 
selves into  the  main  river.  So  transparent  were  these  waters 
that  the  trout  with  which  they  abounded  could  be  seen  gliding 
about  as  if  in  the  air ;  and  their  pebbly  beds  were  distinctly 
visible  at  the  depth  of  many  feet.  This  beautiful  and  diaph- 
anous quality  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  streams  prevails  for  a 
long  time  after  they  have  mingled  theu*  waters  and  swollen 
uato  important  rivers. 

Issuing  from  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville continued  to  the  east-northeast,  across  rough  and  lol'ty 
ridges,  and  deep  rocky  defiles,  extremely  fatiguing  both  to 
man  and  horse.  Among  his  hunters  was  a  Delaware  Indian 
who  had  remained  faithful  to  him.  His  name  was  Buck- 
eye. He  had  often  ju-ided  hmiself  on  his  skiU  and  success 
in  coping  with  the  grizzly  bear,  that  terror  of  the  hunters. 
Though  crippled  in  the  left  arm,  he  declared  he  had  no  hesita- 
tion to  close  with  a  wounded  bear,  and  attack  him  with  a 
sword.  If  arm(3d  with  a  rifle,  he  was  willing  to  bi"avo  the 
animal  when  in  full  force  and  fury.  He  had  twice  an  oppor- 
tunity of  proving  his  prowess,  in  the  course  of  this  jno»intain 
journey,  and  was  each  time  successful.  liis  mode  was  to  seat 
himself  upon  the  ground,  with  his  rifle  cocked  and  resting  on 
his  lame  ai*m.  Thus  prepared,  he  would  await  the  approaeh 
of  the  bear  with  perfect  coolness,  nor  pull  trigger  imtil  he 
was  close  at  hand.  In  each  instance,  he  laid  the  monster  dead 
ui)oa  the  spot. 

A  march  of  three  or  four  days,  through  savage  and  lonely 
scenes,  brought  Captain  Bonneville  to  the  fatal  defile  of  Jack- 
son's Hole,  where  poor  More  and  Foy  had  been  surprised  and 
murdered  by  the  Blackfeet.  The  feelings  of  the  captain  were 
sho  >kofl  at  beholding  the  bones  of  these  unfortimate  young 
men  bl'"  '  ing  among  the  rocks;  and  he  caused  them  to  bo 
decently  mterred. 

On  the  ,3d  of  September  he  arrived  on  the  sumniit  of  a  moun- 
tain wliich  commanded  a  full  view  of  the  eventful  valley  of 
Pierre's  Hole ;  w^hencc  he  could  trace  the  winding  of  its  stream 


70  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.     ■ 

through  green  meadows  and  forests  of  willow  and  Cottonwood, 
and  have  a  prospect,  between  distant  mountains,  of  the  lava 
plains  of  Snake  River,  dimly  spread  forth  like  a  sleeping  ocean 
below. 

After  enjoying  this  magnificent  prospect,  he  descended  into 
the  valley,  and  visited  the  scenes  of  the  late  desperate  conflict. 
There  were  the  remains  of  the  rude  fortress  in  the  swamp, 
shattered  by  rifle  shot,  and  strewed  with  the  mingled  bones  of 
savages  and  horses.  There  was  the  late  populous  and  noisy 
rendezvous,  with  the  traces  of  trappers'  camps  and  Indian 
lodges ;  but  their  fires  w^ere  extinguished,  the  motley  assem- 
blage of  trappers  and  hunters,  white  traders  and  Indian 
braves,  had  aU  dispersed  to  different  points  of  the  wilder- 
ness, and  the  valley  had  relapsed  into  its  pristine  sohtude 
and  silence. 

That  night  the  captain  encamped  upon  the  battle  gi^ound ; 
the  next  day  he  resumed  his  toilsome  peregrinations  through 
the  mountains.  For  upward  of  two  weeks  he  continued  his 
painful  march ;  both  men  and  horses  suffering  excessively  at 
times  from  hunger  and  thirst.  At  length,  on  the  19th  of  Sep- 
tember, he  reached  the  upper  waters  of  Salmon  River. 

The  weather  was  cold,  and  there  were  symptoms  of  an  im- 
pending storm.  The  night  set  in,  but  Buckeye,  the  Delaware 
Indian,  was  missing.  He  had  left  the  party  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  hunt  by  himself,  according  to  his  custom.  Fears  were 
entertained  lest  he  should  lose  Ms  way  and  become  bewildered 
in  tempestuous  weather.  Tliese  fears  increased  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  when  a  violent  snow-storm  came  on,  which  soon 
covered  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  several  inches.  Captain 
Bonneville  immediately  encamped,  and  sent  out  scouts  in 
every  direction.  After  some  search  Buckeye  was  discovered, 
quietly  seated  at  a  considerable  distance  in  the  rear,  waiting 
the  expected  approach  of  the  party,  not  knowing  that  they  had 
passed,  the  snow  having  covered  their  trail. 

On  the  ensuing  morning  they  resumed  their  march  at  an 
early  hour,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  hunters,  wlio 
were  beating  up  the  country  in  the  advance,  came  gallop- 
ing back,  makmg  signals  to  encamp,  and  crying  Indians! 
Indians ! 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  struck  into  a  skirt  of  wood 
and  prepared  for  action.  The  savages  were  now  seen  trooping 
over  the  hills  in  great  numbers.  One  of  them  left  the  main 
body  and  cauic  forward  smglj',  making  signals  of  peace.     He 


ADVE2iTUliKS  OF  CAPTAJy  BO^'JS'EVILLE.  71 

announced  them  as  a  band  of  Nez  Perces,*  or  Pierced -nose  In- 
dians, friendly  to  the  whites,  wliorcupon  an  invitation  was  re- 
turned by  Captain  Bonneville  for  them  to  come  and  encamp 
with  him.  They  halted  for  a  short  time  to  make  their  toilet,  an 
operation  as  important  with  an  Indian  warrior  as  with  r.  fash- 
ionable beauty.  This  done  they  arranged  themselves  in 
martial  style,  the  chiefs  leading  the  van,  the  braves  following 
in  a  long  line,  painted  and  decorated,  and  topped  olf  with  lliit- 
tering  plumes.  In  this  way  they  advanced,  siiouting  and 
singing,  firing  oflt"  their  fusees,  and  clashing  their  shields.  The 
two  parties  encamped  hard  by  each  other.  The  Nez  Perces 
were  on  a  hunting  expedition,  but  had  been  almost  famished 
or.  their  march.  They  had  no  provisions  left  but  a  few  di-ied 
salmon;  yet,  finding  the  white  men  equally  in  want  they 
generously  offered  to  share  even  this  meagre  pittance,  and 
frequently  repeated  the  offer  with  an  earnestness  that  left  no 
doubt  of  their  sincerity.  Their  generosity  won  the  heart  of 
Captain  Bonneville,  and  produced  the  most  cordial  good-will 
on  the  part  of  his  men.  For  two  days  that  the  parties 
remained  in  company,  the  most  amicable  intercourse  pre- 
vailed, and  they  parted  the  best  of  friends.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville detached  a  few  men  under  ]\Ir.  Cerre,  an  able  leader,  to 
accompany  the  Nez  Perces  on  their  hunting  expedition,  and  to 
trade  with  them  for  meat  for  the  wintci-'s  supply.  After  this, 
he  proceeded  down  the  river  about  five  miles  below  the  forks, 
w^hen  he  came  to  a  halt  on  the  2Gth  of  September,  to  establish 
his  winter  quarters. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

HORSES  TURNED  LOOSE— PREPARATIONS  FOR  WINTER  QUARTERS 
—-HUNGRY  TIMES  — NEZ  PERCES,  THEIR  HONESTY,  PIETY, 
PACIFIC  HABITS,  RELIGIOUS  CEREMONIES — CAPTAIN  BONNE- 
VILLE'S CONVERSATJONS  WITH  THEM— THEIR  LOVE  OF  GAM- 
BUNG. 

It  w^as  gratifying  to  Captain  Bonnevillo,  after  so  long  and 
toilsome  a  course  of  travel,  to  reheve  his  poor  jaded  horses  of 


*  We  should  observe  that  this  tribe  is  nniversnlly  called  by  its  French 
name,  which  is  pronounced  by  tlie  trappers.  S-jwrry.  There  are  t\v*>  main 
branches  of  this  tribe,  the  upper  Nepercys  aud  the  lower  Nepercys,  as  we 
Btaall  show  hereafter. 


72  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  burdens  under  which  they  were  almost  ready  to  give  out, 
and  to  behold  them  rolhng  upon  the  grass,  and  taking  a  long 
repose  after  all  their  sulierings.  Indeed,  so  exhausted  were 
they,  that  those  employed  under  the  saddle  were  no  longer 
capable  of  hunting  for  the  daily  subsistence  of  the  camp. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  a  winter  cantonment. 
A  temporary  fortification  was  thrown  up  for  the  protection  of 
the  party ;  a  secure  and  comfortable  pen,  into  which  the  horses 
could  be  driven  at  night ;  and  huts  were  built  for  the  reception 
of  the  merchandise. 

This  done.  Captain  Bonneville  made  a  distribution  of  his 
forces ;  twenty  men  were  to  remain  with  laim  in  garrison  to 
protect  the  property ;  the  rest  were  organized  into  three  bri- 
gades, and  sent  off  in  different  tUrections,  to  subsist  them- 
selves by  hunting  the  buffalo,  until  the  snow  should  become 
too  deep. 

Indeed,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  provide  for  the 
whole  party  in  this  neighborhood.  It  was  at  the  extreme  wes- 
tern limit  of  the  buffalo  range,  and  these  anunals  had  recently 
been  completely  hunted  out  of  the  neighborhood  by  the  Nez 
Forces,  so  that,  that,  although  the  hunters  of  the  garrison  were 
continually  on  the  alert,  ranging  the  country  roimd,  they 
brought  in  scarce  game  sufficient  to  keep  famine  from  the 
door.  Now  and  then  there  was  a  scanty  meal  of  fish  or  wild- 
fowl, occasionally  an  antelope;  but  frequently  the  cravings  of 
hunger  had  to  be  appeased  with  roots,  or  the  flesh  of  wolves 
and  musk-rats.  Rarely  could  the  inmates  of  the  cantonment 
boast  of  having  made  a  full  meal,  and  never  of  having  where- 
withal for  the  morrow.  In  this  way  they  starved  along  until 
the  8th  of  October,  when  they  were  joined  by  a  party  of  five 
families  of  Nez  Forces,  who  in  some  measure  reconciled  them 
to  the  hardships  of  their  situation,  by  exhibiting  a  lot  still  more 
destitute.  A  more  forlorn  set  they  had  never  encountered; 
they  had  not  a  morsel  of  meat  or  fish ;  nor  anything  to  subsist 
on,  exceptmg  roots,  wild  rosebuds,  the  barks  of  certain  plants, 
and  other  vegetable  productions ;  neither  had  they  any  weapon 
for  hunting  or  defense,  excepting  an  old  spear.  Yet  the  poor 
fellows  made  no  murmur  nor  complaint ;  but  seemed  accus- 
tomed to  their  hard  fare.  If  they  could  not  teach  the  white 
men  their  practical  stoicism,  they  at  least  made  them  ac- 
quainted with  the  edible  properties  of  roots  and  wild  rosebiids. 
and  furnished  them  a  supply  fi'om  their  own  store.  The 
necessities  of  the  camp  at  length  became  so  urgent  that  Cap- 


ADVENTUUKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNI'JVILLE.  73 

tain  Bonneville  determined  to  dispatch  a  party  to  the  Horeo 
Prairie,  a  plain  to  the  north  of  his  cantonment,  to  procure  a 
supply  of  provisions.  When  the  men  were  about  to  depart,  he 
proposed  to  the  Nez  Perces  that  they,  or  some  of  them,  should 
join  the  hunting  party.  To  his  surprise  they  promptly  de- 
clined. He  inquired  the  reason  for  their  refusal,  seeing  that 
they  were  in  nearly  as  starving  situation  as  his  own  people. 
They  replied  that  it  was  a  sacred  day  with  them,  and  the  Great 
Spirit  would  be  angiy  should  they  devote  it  to  hunting.  They 
ottered,  however,  to  accompany  the  party  if  it  would  delay  its 
departure  until  the  following  day;  but  this  the  pincliing  de- 
mands of  hunger  Avould  not  X->ei'niit,  and  the  detachment  pro- 
ceeded. A  few  days  afterward,  four  of  them  signified  to 
Captain  Bonneville  that  they  were  about  to  hunt.  "What!" 
exclaimed  ho,  "without  gims  or  arrows;  and  with  only  one 
old  spear?  What  do  you  expect  to  kill?"  They  smiled  among 
themselves,  but  made  no  answer.  Preparatory  to  the  chase, 
they  performed  some  religious  rites,  and  offered  up  to  the 
Great  Spirit  a  few  short  prayers  for  safety  and  success;  then, 
having  received  the  blessings  of  thou-  wives,  they  leaped  upon 
their  horses  and  departed,  leaving  the  whole  pai"ty  of  Chi'is- 
tian  spectators  amazed  and  rebuked  by  this  lesson  of  faith  and 
dependence  on  a  supronie  and  benevolent  Being.  "Accus- 
tomed," adds  Captain  Bonneville,  "as  I  had  heretofore  been, 
to  find  the  wretched  Indian  revelling  in  blood  and  stained  by 
every  vice  which  can  degrade  human  nature,  I  could  scarcely 
realize  the  scene  which  I  had  witnessed.  Wonder  at  such  un- 
affected tenderness  and  piety,  where  it  was  least  to  have  been 
sought,  contended  in  all  oiu'  bosoms  with  shame  and  confusion, 
at  receiving  such  pure  and  wholesome  instructions  from  crea- 
tures so  far  beloAv  us  in  the  arts  and  comforts  of  life."  The 
simple  prayers  of  the  poor  Indians  were  not  unheard.  In  the 
course  of  four  or  five  days  they  returned,  laden  with  meat. 
Captain  Bonneville  was  curious  to  know  how  they  had 
attained  such  success  with  such  scanty  means.  They  gave  him 
to  understand  that  they  had  chased  the  herds  of  buffalo  at  full 
speed,  until  they  tired  them  down,  when  they  easily  dispatched 
them  with  the  spear,  and  made  use  of  the  same  weapon  to  flay 
the  carcasses.  To  carry  through  their  lessons  to  their  Chris- 
tian friends,  the  poor  savages  Avere  as  charitable  as  they  had 
been  pious,  and  generously  shared  with  them  the  spoils  of  their 
hunting;  giving  them  food  enough  to  last  for  several  days. 
A  further  and  more  intimate  intercourse  with  this  tribe  gave 


74  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

Captain  Bonneville  still  greater  cause  to  admire  their  strong 
devotional  feeling.  "Simply  to  call  these  people  religious," 
says  he,  ' '  would  convey  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  deep  hue  of 
piety  and  devotion  which  pervades  then-  whole  conduct.  Their 
honesty  is  immaculate,  and  their  purity  of  purpose,  and  their 
observance  of  the  i*ites  of  their  religion,  are  most  uniform  and 
remarkable.  They  are,  certainly  more  like  a  nation  of  saints 
than  a  horde  of  savages." 

In  fact,  the  antibeUigerent  policy  of  this  tribe  may  have 
sprung  from  the  doctrines  of  Christian  chai'ity,  for  it  would 
appear  that  they  had  imbibed  some  notions  of  the  Christian 
faith  from  Catholic  missionaries  and  traders  who  had  been 
among  them.  They  even  had  a  rude  calendar  of  the  fasts  and 
festivals  of  the  Romish  Church,  and  some  traces  of  its  cere- 
monials. These  have  become  blended  with  their  own  wild 
rites,  and  present  a  strange  medley ;  civilized  and  barbarous. 
On  the  Sabbath,  men,  women,  and  cliildren  array  themselves 
in  their  best  style,  and  assemble  round  a  pole  erected  at  the 
head  of  the  camp.  Here  they  go  through  a  wild  fantastic 
ceremonial;  strongly  resembling  the  rehgious  dance  of  the 
Shaking  Quakers ;  but  from  its  enthusiasm,  much  more  strik- 
ing and  impressive.  During  the  intervals  of  the  ceremony, 
the  principal  chiefs,  v/ho  officiate  as  priests,  instruct  them  in 
their  duties,  and  exhort  them  to  \drtue  and  good  deeds. 

"There  is  something  antique  and  patriarchal,"  observes  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  "in  this  union  of  the  offices  of  leader  and 
priest ;  as  there  is  in  many  of  their  customs  and  manners, 
which  are  all  strongly  imbued  with  religion." 

The  worthy  captain,  indeed,  appears  to  have  been  strongly 
interested  by  this  gleam  of  unlooked-for  light  amid  the  dark- 
ness of  the  wilderness.  He  exerted  himself,  during  his  sojourn 
among  this  simple  and  well-disposed  people,  to  inculcate,  as  far 
as  he  was  able,  the  gentle  and  humanizing  precepts  of  the 
Christian  faith,  and  to  make  them  acquainted  with  the  lead- 
ing points  of  its  history ;  and  it  speaks  highly  for  the  purity 
and  benignity  of  his  heart,  that  he  derived  unmixed  happiness 
from  the  task. 

"Many  a  time,"  says  he,  "was  my  little  lodge  thronged,  or 
rather  piled  with  hearers,  for  they  lay  on  the  ground,  one  lean- 
ing over  the  other,  until  there  was  no  further  room,  all  listening 
with  greedy  ears  to  the  wonders  which  the  Great  Spirit  had 
revealed  to  the  white  man.  No  other  subject  gave  them  half 
the  satisfaction,  or  commanded  half  the  attention;   and  but 


A'DVEyTL'llES   or  CAPTAjy  BONNKVILLK.  75 

few  scenes  in  my  life  remain  so  freshly  on  my  memory,  or  are 
6')  ploasurably  recalled  to  my  contemplation,  as  these  houi-s  of 
intercourse  with  a  distant  and  benighted  race  in  the  midst  of 
the  desert." 

The  only  excesses  indulged  in  by  this  temperate  and  exem- 
plary people,  appear  to  be  gambling  and  horscracing.  In  these 
they  engage  with  an  eagerness  that  amounts  to  iiifatuation. 
Knots  of  gamblers  will  assemble  before  one  of  their  lodge  fires, 
early  in  the  evening,  and  remain  absorbed  in  the  chances  and 
changes  of  the  game  until  long  after  dawn  of  the  following 
day.  As  the  night  advances,  they  wax  warmer  and  warmer. 
Bets  increase  in  amount,  one  loss  only  serves  to  lead  to  a  greater, 
until  in  the  course  of  a  single  night's  gambling,  the  richest 
chief  may  become  the  poorest  varlet  in  the  camp. 


CHAPTER  X. 

BLACKFEET  IN  THE  HORSE  PRAHIIE — SEARCH  AFTER  THE  HUNT- 
ERS— DIFFICULTIES  AND  DANGERS — A  CARD  PARTY  IN  THE  WIL- 
DERNESS—THE CARD  PARTY  INTERRUPTED— "  OLD  SLEDGE"  A 
LOSING  GAME— VISITORS  TO  THE  CAMP — IROQUOIS  HUNTERS — 
HANGING-EARED  INDIANS. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  two  young  Indians  of  the  Nez  Perce 
tribe  arrived  at  Captain  Bonneville's  encampment.  They  were 
on  their  way  homeward,  but  had  been  obliged  to  swerve  from 
their  ordinary  route  through  the  mountains,  by  deep  snows. 
Their  new  route  took  them  through  the  Horse  Prairie.  In 
traversing  it,  they  had  been  attracted  by  the  distant  smoke  of 
a  camp  fire,  and  on  stealing  near  to  reconnoitre,  had  discovered 
a  war  party  of  Blackfcet.  They  had  serwral  horses  with  them; 
and,  as  they  generally  go  on  foot  on  warli»ke  excursions,  it  was 
concluded  that  these  horses  had  been  captui-ed  in  the  course  of 
their  maraudings. 

This  intelligence  awakened  solicitude  on  the  mind  of  Captain 
Bonneville  for  the  party  of  himtors  whom  he  had  sent  to  that 
neighborhood ;  and  the  Nez  Perzes.  when  informed  of  the  cir- 
cumstance, shook  their  heads,  and  declared  their  belief  that 
the  horses  they  had  se-^jn  had  been  stolen  from  that  very  pai'ty. 

Anxious  for  information  on  the  subject.  Captain  Bonne- 
vjJIo  dispatched  two  hunters  to  beat  up  the  comitry  in  that 


76  ADVE2iTUHES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

direction.  They  searched  in  vain;  not  a  trace  of  the  men 
could  be  found ;  but  they  got  into  a  region  destitute  of  game, 
where  they  were  woU-nigh  famished.  At  one  tune  thej^  were 
three  entire  days  without  a  mouthful  of  food ;  at  length  they 
beheld  a  buffalo  grazing  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  After 
manoeuvring  so  as  to  get  within  shot,  they  lired,  but  merely 
v/ounded  him.  He  took  to  flight,  and  they  followed  Lim  over 
hiU  and  dale,  \\ath  the  eagerness  and  perseverance  of  starving 
men.  A  more  lucky  shot  brought  him  to  the  ground.  Stan- 
field  sprang  upon  him,  plunged  his  knife  into  his  throat,  and 
allayed  his  raging  hunger  by  drinking  his  blood.  A  fire  was 
instantly  kindled  beside  the  carcass,  when  the  two  hunters 
cooked,  and  ate  again  and  again,  tuitil,  perfectly  gorged,  they 
sank  to  sleep  before  their  hunting  fire.  On  the  following 
morning  they  rose  early,  made  another  hearty  meal,  then 
loading  themselves  with  buffalo  meat,  set  out  on  their  return 
to  the  camp,  to  report  the  fruitlessness  of  their  mission. 

At  length,  after  six  weeks'  absence,  the  hunters  made  their 
appearance,  and  were  received  with  joy  proportioned  to  the 
anxiety  that  had  been  felt  on  their  account.  They  had  hunted 
with  success  on  the  prairie,  but,  while  busy  drying  buffalo 
meat,  were  joined  by  a  few  panic-stricken  Flatheads,  Avho 
informed  them  that  a  powerful  band  of  Blackfeet  were  at 
hand.  The  hunters  immediately  abandoned  the  dangerous 
hunting  ground,  and  accompanied  the  Flatheads  to  their 
village.  Here  they  found  Mr.  Cerre,  and  the  detachment  of 
hunters  sent  with  him  to  accompany  the  hunting  party  of  the 
Nez  Perces. 

After  remaining  some  time  at  the  village,  until  they  sup- 
posed the  Blackfeet  to  have  loft  the  neighborhood,  they  set  off 
with  some  of  Mr.  Cerre's  men  for  the  cantonment  at  Salmon 
River,  where  they  arrived  v.'ithout  accident.  They  informed 
Captain  Bonneville,  however,  that  not  far  from  his  quarters 
they  had  found  a  wallet  of  fi-esh  meat  and  a  cord,  wMch  they 
supposed  had  been  left  by  some  prowling  Blackfeet.  A  few 
days  afterward  ]\Ir.  Cerre,  with  the  remainder  of  liis  men, 
likewise  arrived  at  the  cantomnent. 

]Mr.  Walker,  one  of  his  subleaders,  who  had  gone  with  a 
band  of  twenty  hunters  to  range  the  countiy  just  beyond  the 
Horse  Prairie,  had  likewise  his  share  of  adventures  with  the 
all-pervading  Blackfeet.  At  one  of  his  encampments  the 
guard  stationed  to  keep  watch  round  the  camp  grew  weary  of 
their  duty,  and  feeling  a  little  too  secure,  and  too  much  at 


ADVhWTURh'-S   OF  VAPJALX  JU).\ SKVI LLI'.  77 

home  on  these  prairies,  retired  to  a  small  grove  of  willuws  to 
amuse  themselves  with  a  social  game  of  cards  called  "old 
sledge,"  which  is  as  popiUar  among  these  trampers  of  the 
prairies  as  whist  or  ecarte  aniong  the  polite  circles  of  the 
cities.  From  the  midst  of  their  sport  they  were  suddenly 
roused  by  a  discharge  of  firearms  and  a  shriU  war-whoop. 
Starting  on  their  feet,  and  snatching  up  their  rifles,  they 
beheld  in  dismay  their  horses  and  mides  already  in  possession 
of  the  enemy,  who  had  stolen  upon  the  camp  imperceived, 
while  they  were  spell-bound  by  the  magic  of  old  sledge.  The 
Indians  sprang  upon  the  animals  barebacked,  and  endeavored 
to  urge  tliem  off  under  a  galling  fire  that  did  some  execution. 
The  mules,  however,  confounded  by  the  hurly-burly  and  dis- 
liking tlieir  new  riders  kicked  up  Iheir  heels  and  dismounted 
half  of  them,  in  spite  of  their  hoi'semanship.  This  threw  the 
rest  into  con  fusion;  they  endeavored  to  protect  their  unhorsed 
comrades  from  the  furious  assaults  of  the  wliitcs;  but,  after  a 
scene  of  "confusion  worse  confounded,"  horses  and  mules 
were  abandoned,  and  the  Indians  betook  themselves  to  the 
bushes.  Here  they  quickly  scratched  holes  in  the  earth  about 
two  feet  deep,  in  which  they  prostrated  themselves,  and  while 
thus  screened  from  the  shots  of  the  white  men,  Avere  enabled 
to  make  such  use  of  their  bows  and  arrows  and  fusees,  as  to 
repulse  their  assailants  and  to  effect  their  retreat.  This 
adventure  threw  a  temporary  stigma  upon  the  game  of  "old 
sledge." 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn,  four  Iroquois  hunters,  dri\'en 
by  the  snow  from  their  hunting  gi'ounds,  made  their  appear- 
ance at  the  cantonment.  They  were  kindly  welcomed,  and 
during  their  sojourn  made  themselves  useful  in  a  variety  of 
ways,  being  excellent  trappei'S  and  first-rate  woodsmen.  They 
were  of  the  remnants  of  a  pai-ty  of  Iroquois  hunters  that  came 
from  Canada  into  these  mountain  regions  many  years  previ; 
ously,  in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They 
were  led  by  a  brave  chieftain,  named  Pierre,  who  fell  by  the 
hands  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  gave  his  name  to  the  fated  valley 
of  Pierre's  Hole.  This  branch  of  the  Iroquois  tribe  has  ever 
since  remained  among  these  mountains,  at  mortal  enmity 
Avith  the  Blackfeet,  and  have  lost  many  of  their  prinu^  buntci-s 
in  their  feuds  with  that  ferocious  race.  Some  of  th(Mn  fell  in 
with  General  Ashley,  in  the  course  of  one  of  his  gnllant  excur- 
sions into  the  wilderness,  and  have  continued  ever  since  in  the 
employ  of  the  company. 


78  ADVE2iTUliES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

Among  the  motley  visitors  to  the  winter  quarters  of  Captain 
Bonneville  was  a  party  of  Pends  Oreilles  (or  Hanging-ears) 
and  their  chief.  These  Indians  have  a  strong  resemblance,  in 
character  and  customs,  to  the  Nez  Perces.  They  amount  to 
about  three  hundred  lodges,  are  well  armed,  and  possess  great 
numbers  of  horses.  Dui'ing  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn, 
they  hunt  the  buffalo  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri, 
Henry's  Fork  of  the  Snake  Eiver,  and  the  northern  branches 
of  Salmon  Eiver.  Their  winter  quarters  are  upon  the  Racine 
Amere,  where  thoy  subsist  upon  roots  and  dried  buffalo  meat. 
Upon  this  river  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  established 
a  trading  post,  where  the  Pends  Oreilles  and  the  Flatheads 
bring  their  peltries  to  exchange  for  arms,  clothmg,  and 
trinkets. 

This  tribe,  like  the  Nez  Perez,  evince  strong  and  peculiar 
feelings  of  natural  piety.  Their  religion  is  not  a  mere 
superstitious  fear,  like  that  of  most  savages ;  they  evince  ab- 
stract notions  of  morality ;  a  deep  reverence  for  an  overruling 
spirit,  and  a  respect  for  the  rights  of  their  fellowmen.  In  one 
respect  their  religion  partakes  of  the  pacific  doctrines  of  the 
Quakers.  They  hold  that  the  Great  Spirit  is  displeased  with 
all  nations  who  wantonly  engage  in  war;  they  abstain,  there- 
fore, from  all  aggressive  hostilities.  But  though  thus  un- 
offending in  their  policy,  they  are  called  upon  continually  to 
wage  defensive  warfare;  especially  wilh  the  Blackfeet;  with 
whom,  in  the  course  of  their  hunting  expeditions,  they  come 
in  frequent  collision  and  have  desperate  battles.  Their  con- 
duct as  warriors  is  without  fear  or  reproach,  and  they  can 
never  be  driven  to  abandon  their  hunting  grounds. 

Like  most  savages  they  are  firm  believers  in  dreams,  and  in 
the  power  and  efl&cacy  of  charms  and  amulets,  or  medicines  as 
they  term  them.  Some  of  their  braves,  also,  who  have  had 
numerous  hairbreadth  'scapes,  like  the  old  Nez  Perce  chief  in 
the  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  are  believed  to  wear  a  charmed 
life,  and  to  be  bullet-proof.  Of  these  gifted  beings  marvellous 
anecdotes  are  related,  which  are  most  potently  believed  by 
their  fellow  savages,  and  sometimes  almost  credited  by  the 
white  hunters. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  79 


CHAPTER  XI. 

RIVAL  TRAPPING  PARTIES— MANCEUVRINQ — A  DESPERATE  GAME — 
VANDERBURGH  AND  THE  BLACKFEET— DESERTED  CAMP  FIRE — 
A  DARK  DEFILE — AN  INDIAN  AMBUSH— A  FIERCE  MELEE— FATAL 
CONSEQUENCES— FITZPATRICK  AND  BRIDGER— TRAPPERS'  PRE- 
CAUTIONS—MEETING WITH  THE  BLACKFEET— MORE  FIGHTING — 
ANECDOTE  OF  A  YOUNG  MEXICAN  AND  AN  INDIAN  GIRL. 

"While  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  are  sojourning 
among  the  Nez  Perces,  on  Salmon  River,  we  will  inquire  after 
the  fortunes  of  "^hose  doifghty  rivals  of  the  Rocky  ]\Iountains 
and  American  ifur-  Companies,  who  started  off  for  the  trap- 
ping grounds  to  the  north-northwest. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of  the  former  company,  as  we  have 
already  shown,  having  received  their  supplies,  had  taken  the 
lead,  and  hoped  to  have  the  fii'st  sweep  of  the  hunting  grounds. 
Vanderburgh  and  Dripps,  however,  the  two  resident  partners 
of  the  opposite  company,  by  extraordinary  exertions  were  en- 
abled soon  to  put  themselves  upon  their  traces,  and  pressed 
forward  with  such  speed  as  to  overtake  thom  just  as  they  had 
reached  the  heart  of  the  beaver  country.  In  fact,  being  ignor- 
ant of  the  best  trapping  grounds,  it  was  their  object  to  follow 
on,  and  profit  by  the  superior  knowledge  of  the  other  party. 

Nothing  coidd  equal  the  chagrin  of  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger 
at  being  dogged  by  their  inexperienced  rivals,  especially  after 
their  offer  to  divide  the  country  with  them.  They  tried  in 
every  way  to  blind  and  baffle  them;  to  steal  a  march  upon 
tliem,  or  lead  them  on  a  "wrong  scent;  but  all  in  vain.  Van- 
derburgh made  up  by  activity  and  intelligence  for  his  ignor- 
ance of  the  country ;  was  always  wary,  always  on  the  alert ; 
discovered  every  movement  of  his  rivals,  however  secret,  and 
was  not  to  be  eluded  or  misled, 

Fitzpatrick  and  his  colleague  now  lost  all  patience;  since 
the  others  persisted  in  following  them,  they  determined  to  give 
them  an  unprofitable  chase,  and  to  sacrifice  the  lumting  season 
rather  than  share  the  products  with  their  rivals.  They  ac- 
cordingly took  up  their  line  of  march  down  the  course  of  the 
Missouri,  keeping  the  main  Blackfoot  trail,  and  tramping  dog- 


80  ADVEJSTURKS   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

gedly  forward,  without  stopping  to  set  a  single  trap.  The 
others  beat  the  hoof  after  them  for  some  time,  but  by  degrees 
began  to  perceive  that  they  were  on  a  wild-goose  chase,  and 
getting  into  a  country  perfectly  barren  to  the  trapper.  They 
now  came  to  a  halt,  and  bethought  themselves  how  to  make 
up  for  lost  time,  and  improve  the  remainder  of  the  season.  It 
was  thought  best  to  divide  their  forces  and  try  different  trap- 
ping grounds.  While  Dripps  went  in  one  direction,  Vander- 
burgh, with  about  fifty  men,  proceeded  in  another.  The  latter, 
in  his  headlong  march  had  got  into  the  very  heart  of  the  Black- 
foot  country,  yet  seems  to  have  been  unconscious  of  his  danger. 
As  his  scouts  were  out  one  day,  they  came  upon  the  traces  of 
a  recent  band  of  savages.  There  were  the  deserted  fires  still 
smoking,  surrounded  by  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes  just  killed. 
It  was  evident  a  party  of  Blackfeet  had  been  frightened  from 
theii'  hunting  camp,  and  had  retreated,  probf^.dy  to  seek  rein- 
forcements. The  scouts  hastened  back  to  the  camp,  and  told 
Vanderburgh  what  they  had  seen.  He  made  light  of  the 
alarm,  and,  taking  nine  men  with  him,  galloped  off  to  recon- 
noitre for  himself.  He  found  the  deserted  hunting  camp  just 
as  they  had  represented  it ;  there  lay  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes, 
partly  dismembered;  there  were  the  smouldering  fires,  still 
sending  up  their  wreaths  of  smoke ;  everything  bore  traces  of 
recent  and  hasty  retreat ;  and  gave  reason  to  beUeve  that  the 
savages  were  still  Ixu-king  in  the  neighborhood.  With  heed- 
less daring,  Vanderburgh  put  himself  upon  their  trail,  to  trace 
them  to  their  place  of  concealment.  It  led  bun  over  prairies, 
and  through  skirts  of  woodland,  until  it  entered  a  dark  and 
dangerous  ravine.  Vanderburgh  pushed  in,  without  hesita- 
tion, followed  by  liis  little  band.  They  soon  fovmd  themselves 
in  a  gloomy  dell,  between  steep  banks  overhung  with  trees, 
where  the  profound  silence  was  only  broken  by  the  tramp  of 
their  oavh  horses. 

Suddenly  the  horrid  war-whoop  burst  on  their  ears,  mingled 
with  the  sharp  report  of  rifles,  and  a  legion  of  savages  sprang 
from  their  concealments,  yelling,  and  shaking  their  buffalo 
robes  to  frighten  the  horses.  Vanderburgh's  horse  fell,  mor- 
tally wounded  by  the  first  discharge.  In  his  fall  he  pinned  his 
rider  to  the  ground,  who  called  in  vain  upon  his  men  to  assist 
in  extricating  him.  One  was  shot  down  scalped  a  few  paces 
distant ;  most  of  the  others  were  severely  woimded,  and  sought 
their  safety  in  flight.  The  savages  approached  to  dispatch 
the  unfortunate  leader,  as  he  lay  struggling  beneath  liis  horse. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  81 

He  had  still  his  rifle  in  his  hand  and  his  pistols  in  his  belt. 
The  first  savage  that  advanced  received  the  contents  of  the 
rifle  in  his  breast,  and  fell  dead  upon  the  spot ;  but  before  Van- 
derburgh coiUd  draw  a  pistol,  a  blow  from  a  tomahawk  laid 
him  prostrate,  and  he  was  dispatched  by  repeated  wounds. 

Such  was  the  fate  of  Major  Hem*y  Vanderburgh,  one  of  the 
best  and  worthiest  leaders  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
who  by  his  manly  bearing  and  dauntless  courage  is  said  to 
have  made  himself  universally  popular  among  the  bold-hearted 
rovers  of  the  wilderness. 

Those  of  the  little  band  who  escaped  fled  in  consternation  to 
the  camp,  and  spread  direful  reports  of  the  force  and  ferocity 
of  the  enemy.  The  party,  being  without  a  head,  were  in  com- 
plete confusion  and  dismay,  and  made  a  precipitate  retreat, 
without  attempting  to  recover  the  remains  of  their  butchered 
leader.  They  made  no  halt  until  they  reached  the  enciimp- 
ment  of  the  Pends  Oreilles,  or  Hanging-eare,  where  they  of- 
fered a  reward  for  the  recovery  of  the  body,  but  without  suc- 
cess; it  never  could  be  found. 

In  the  meantime  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company,  fared  but  little  better  than  their  rivals. 
In  their  eagerness  to  mislead  them  they  betrayed  themselves 
into  danger,  and  got  into  a  region  infested  with  the  Blackfeet. 
They  soon  fovmd  that  foes  were  on  the  watch  for  them ;  but 
they  were  experienced  in  Indian  warfare,  and  not  to  be  sur- 
prised at  night,  nor  drawn  into  an  ambush  in  the  daytime. 
As  the  evening  advanced,  the  horses  were  all  brought  in  and 
picketed,  and  a  guard  was  stationed  roimd  the  camp.  At  the 
earliest  streak  of  day  one  of  the  leaders  would  moinit  his 
horse,  and  gallop  off  full  speed  for  about  half  a  mile;  then 
look  round  for  Indian  trails,  to  ascertain  whether  there  had 
been  any  lurkers  round  the  camp ;  returning  slowly,  he  would 
reconnoitre  every  ravme  and  thicket  where  there  might  be  an 
ambush.  Tliis  done,  he  would  gallop  off  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion and  repeat  the  same  scrutiny.  Finding  all  tliincs  safe, 
the  horses  would  be  turned  loose  to  graze,  but  always  under 
the  eye  of  a  guard. 

A  caution  equally  vigilant  was  observed  in  the  marcli,  on 
approaching  any  defile  or  place  where  an  enemy  might  lie  in 
wait;  and  scouts  were  always  kept  in  the  advance,  or  along 
the  ridges  and  rising  grounds  on  the  flanks. 

At  length,  one  day,  a  large  band  of  Blackfeet  ap]>eared  in 
the  open  field,  but  in  the  vicinity  of  recks  and  cliffs.     They 


82  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

kept  at  a  wary  distance,  but  made  friendly  signs.  The  trap- 
pers replied  in  the  same  way,  but  likewise  kept  aloof.  A 
small  party  of  Indians  now  advanced,  bearing  the  pipe  of 
peace ;  they  were  met  by  an  equal  number  of  white  men,  and 
they  formed  a  group  midway  between  the  two  bands,  where 
the  pipe  was  circulated  from  hand  to  hand,  and  smoked  wath 
all  due  ceremony.  An  instance  of  natural  affection  took  place 
at  this  pacific  meeting.  Among  the  free  trappers  in  the  Eocky 
Mountain  band  was  a  spirited  young  Mexican  named  Loretto, 
who,  in  the  course  of  liis  wanderings,  had  ransomed  a  beauti- 
ful Blackfoot  girl  from  a  band  of  Crows  by  whona  she  had 
been  captiu-ed.  He  made  her  his  wife,  after  the  Indian  style, 
and  she  had  followed  his  fortunes  ever  since,  with  the  most 
devoted  affection. 

Among  the  Blackfeet  warriors  who  advanced  with  the  calu- 
met of  peace  she  recognized  a  brother.  Leaving  her  infant 
with  Loretto  she  rushed  forward  and  threw  herself  upon  her 
brother's  neck,  who  clasped  Ms  long-lost  sister  to  his  heart 
with  a  warmth  of  affection  but  little  compatible  with  the 
reputed  stoicism  of  the  savage. 

\Vliile  this  scene  was  taking  place,  Bridger  left  the  main  body 
of  trappers  and  rode  slowly  toward  the  group  of  smokers,  with 
his  rifle  resting  across  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  The  chief  of 
the  Blackfeet  stepped  forward  to  meet  him.  From  some  un- 
fortunate feeling  of  distriist  Bridger  cocked  his  rifle  just  as  the 
chief  was  extending  his  hand  in  friendship.  The  quick  ear  of 
the  savage  caught  the  click  of  the  lock;  in  a  twinkling  he 
grasped  the  barrel,  forced  the  muzzle  downward,  and  the 
contents  were  discharged  into  the  earth  at  his  feet.  His  next 
movement  was  to  wrest  the  weapon  from  the  hand  of  Bridger 
and  fell  him  with  it  to  the  earth.  He  might  have  found  this 
no  easy  task  had  not  the  unfortunate  leader  received  two 
arrows  in  his  back  during  the  struggle. 

The  chief  now  sprang  into  the  vacant  saddle  and  galloped  off 
to  Ms  band.  A  wild  hurry-skurry  scene  ensued ;  each  party 
took  to  the  banks,  the  rocks  and  trees,  to  gain  favorable  posi- 
tions, and  an  irregular  firing  was  kept  up  on  either  side,  with- 
out much  effect.  The  Indian  girl  had  been  huiTied  off  by 
her  people  at  the  outbreak  of  the  affray.  She  would  have 
returned,  through  the  dangers  of  the  fight,  to  her  husband  and 
her  child,  but  was  prevented  by  her  brother.  The  young 
Mexican  saw  her  struggles  and  her  agony,  and  heard  her 
piercing  cries.    With  a  generous  impulse  he  caught  up  the 


adve:nturks  of  captain  bonneville.        83 

child  in  his  arms,  rushed  forward,  regardless  of  Indian  shaft 
or  rifle,  and  placed  it  in  safety  upon  her  bosom.  Even  the 
savage'heart  of  the  Blackfoot  chief  was  reached  by  this  noble 
deed.  He  pronounced  Loretto  a  madman  for  his  temerity,  but 
bade  him  depart  in  peace.  The  young  Mexican  hesitated ;  he 
urged  to  have  his  wife  restored  to  him,  but  her  brother  inter- 
fered, and  the  countenance  of  the  chief  grew  dark.  The  girl, 
he  said,  belonged  to  his  tribe — she  must  remain  with  her  peo- 
ple. Loretto  would  still  have  lingered,  but  liis  wife  implored 
him  to  depart,  lest  his  life  should  be  endangered.  It  was  with 
the  greatest  reluctance  that  he  returned  to  his  companions. 

The  approach  of  night  put  an  end  to  the  skirmishing  fire  of 
the  adverse  parties,  and  the  savages  drew  off  without  renew- 
ing their  hostilities.  We  cannot  but  remark  that  both  in  this 
affair  and  that  of  Pierre's  Hole  the  affray  commenced  by  a 
hostile  act  on  the  part  of  white  men  at  the  moment  when  the 
Indian  warrior  was  extending  the  hand  of  amity.  In  neither 
instance,  as  far  as  circumstances  have  been  stated  to  us  by 
different  persons,  do  we  see  any  reason  to  suspect  the  savage 
chiefs  of  perfidy  in  then'  overtures  of  friendship.  They  ad- 
vanced in  the  confiding  way  usual  among  Indians  when  they 
bear  the  pipe  of  peace,  and  consider  themselves  sacred  from 
attack.  If  we  violate  the  sanctity  of  this  ceremonial,  by  any 
hostile  movement  on  our  part,  it  is  we  who  incur  the  charge  of 
faithlessness ;  and  we  doubt  not  that  in  both  these  instances 
the  white  men  have  been  considered  by  the  Blackfeet  as  the 
aggressors,  and  have,  in  consequence,  been  held  up  as  men  not 
to  be  tinisted. 

A  word  to  conclude  the  romantic  incident  of  Loretto  and  his 
Indian  bride.  A  few  months  subsequent  to  the  event  just 
related,  the  young  Mexican  settled  his  accounts  with  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Company,  and  obtained  liis  discharge.  He 
then  left  his  comrades  and  set  off  to  rejoin  his  wife  and  cliild 
among  her  people ;  and  we  understand  that,  at  the  time  we  arc 
writing  these  pages,  he  resides  at  a  trading-house  estabhshed 
of  late  by  the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  Blackfoot  coun- 
try, where  he  acts  as  an  interpreter,  and  has  his  Indian  girl 
with  him. 


84  AD  VJi'iy TUBES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTEE  XII. 

k  WINTER  CAMP  IN  THE  WILDERNESS — MEDLEY  OF  TRAPPERS, 
HUNTERS,  AND  INDIANS— SCARCITY  OF  GAME— NEW  ARRANGE- 
MENTS IN  THE  CAMP — DETACHMENTS  SENT  TO  A  DISTANCE  — 
CARELESSNESS  OF  THE  INDIANS  WHEN  ENCAMPED — SICKNESS 
AMONG  THE  INDIANS— EXCELLENT  CHARACTER  OP  THE  NEZ 
PERCES— THE  CAPTAIN'S  EFFORT  AS  A  PACIFICATOR— A  NEZ 
PERCE'S  ARGUJIENT  IN  FAVOR  OF  WAR  — ROBBERIES  BY  THE 
BLACKFEET— LONG  SUFFERING  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCES — A  HUN- 
TER'S ELYSIUJI  AMONG  THE  MOUNTAINS— MORE  ROBBERIES — 
THE  CAPTAIN  PREACHES  UP  A  CRUSADE— THE  EFFECT  UPON 
HIS  HEARERS. 

For  the  greater  part  of  the  month  of  November  Captain 
Bonneville  remained  in  his  temporary  post  on  Salmon  River. 
He  was  now  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  wishes;  leading  a 
hunter's  Ufe  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  with  all  its  wild 
populace  around  hmi.  Beside  his  own  people,  motley  in  char- 
acter and  costume  —  Creole,  Kentuckian,  Indian,  half-breed, 
hired  trapper,  and  free  trapper — he  was  surrounded  by  en- 
campments of  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads,  with  their  droves  of 
horses  covering  the  hills  and  plains.  It  was,  he  declai'es,  a 
wild  and  busthng  scene.  The  hunting  parties  of  white  men 
and  red  men,  continually  sallying  forth  and  returning;  the 
groups  at  the  various  encampments,  some  cooking,  some 
working,  some  amusing  themselves  at  different  games;  the 
neighing  of  horses,  the  braying  of  asses,  the  resounding 
strokes  of  the  axe,  the  sharp  report  of  the  rifle,  the  whoop, 
the  halloo,  and  the  frequent  burst  of  laughter,  all  in  the  midst 
of  a  region  suddenly  roused  from  perfect  silence  and  loneliness 
by  this  transient  hunters'  sojourn,  realized,  he  says,  the  idea 
of  a  "populous  solitude." 

The  kind  and  genial  character  of  the  captain  had.  evidently, 
its  influence  on  the  opposite  races  thus  fortuitously  congregated 
together.  The  most  perfect  harmony  prevailed  between  them. 
The  Indians,  he  says,  were  friendly  in  their  dispositions,  and  hon- 
est to  the  most  scrupulous  degree  in  their  intercoiu'se  with  the 
white  men.     It  is  true  they  were  somewhat  importunate  in 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  85 

their  curiosity,  and  apt  to  be  continually  in  the  way,  examining 
everything  with  keen  and  prying  eye,  and  watching  every 
movement  of  the  white  men.  All  tliis,  however,  was  borne 
with  great  good-humor  by  the  captain,  and  through  bis  exam- 
ple by  his  men.  Indeed,  throughout  all  his  transactions  he 
shows  himself  the  friend  of  the  poor  Indians,  and  his  conduct 
toward  them  is  above  all  praise. 

The  Nez  Perces,  the  Flatheads,  and  the  Hang^ing-ears  pride 
themselves  upon  the  number  of  their  hordes,  of  whicli  they  pos- 
sess more  in  proportion  than  any  other  of  the  mountain  tribes 
within  the  buffalo  range.  Many  of  the  Indian  warriors  and 
hunters  encamped  around  Captain  Bonneville  possess  from 
thirty  to  forty  horses  each.  Their  horses  are  stout,  well-built 
ponies,  of  great  wind,  and  capable  of  enduring  the  severest 
hardsbip  and  fatigue.  The  swiftest  of  them,  however,  are 
those  obtained  from  the  Avhites  while  sufficiently  young  to  be- 
come acclimated  and  inured  to  the  rough  service  of  the  moun- 
tains. 

By  degrees  the  popidousness  of  this  encampment  began  to 
produce  its  inconveniences.  The  immense  droves  of  horees 
owned  by  the  Indians  consumed  the  herbage  of  the  surround- 
ing hills;  while  to  drive  them  to  any  distant  pasturage,  in  a 
neighborhood  abounding  with  lurking  and  deadlj^  enemies, 
would  be  to  endanger  the  loss  both  of  man  and  beast.  Game, 
too,  began  to  grow  scarce.  It  w-as  soon  hunted  and  frightened 
out  of  the  vicinity,  and  though  the  Indians  made  a  wide  cir- 
cuit through  the  moimtains  in  the  hoj^e  of  driving  the  buffalo 
toward  the  cantonnaent,  their  expedition  was  unsuccessful.  It 
was  plain  that  so  large  a  party  could  not  subsist  themselves 
there,  nor  in  any  one  place  throughout  the  winter.  Captain 
Bonneville,  therefore,  altered  his  whole  arrangements.  He  de- 
tached fifty  men  toward  the  south  to  winter  upon  Snake  River, 
and  to  trap  about  its  w^aters  in  the  spring,  with  orders  to  rejoin 
him  in  the  month  of  July  at  Horse  Creek,  in  Green  River  val- 
ley, wliich  he  had  fixed  upon  as  the  general  rendezvous  of  his 
company  for  the  ensuing  year. 

Of  all  his  late  partj^  he  now  retained  with  him  merely  a 
small  number  of  free  trappers,  with  whom  he  intended  to  so- 
journ among  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads,  and  adopt  the 
Indian  mode  of  moving  with  the  game  and  gra.ss.  Those 
bands,  in  effect,  shortly  afterward  broke  uj)  their  encamp- 
ments and  set  off  for  a  less  beaten  neighborhood.  Captain 
Bonneville  remained  behind  for  a  few  days,  that  he  might  se* 


86  ADVENTUIIKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

cretly  prepare  caches,  in  which  to  deposit  everything  not  re- 
quired for  current  use.  Thus  hghtened  of  all  superfluous 
incumbrance,  he  set  off  on  the  20th  of  November  to  rejoin  his 
Indian  allies.  He  found  them  encamped  in  a  secluded  part  of 
the  country,  at  tlie  head  of  a  small  stream.  Considering  thein- 
selves  out  of  all  danger  in  tins  sequestered  spot  from  their  old 
enemies,  the  Blackfeet,  their  encami^ment  manifested  the  most 
negligent  security.  Their  lodges  were  scattered  in  every  direct 
tion,  and  their  horses  covered  every  hill  for  a  great  distance 
I'ound,  grazing  upon  the  upland  bunch  grass  which  grew  in 
great  abundance,  and  though  dry,  retained  its  nutritious  prop- 
erties instead  of  losmg  them  like  other  grasses  in  the  autumn. 

When  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  and  Pends  Oreilles  are  en- 
cam])ed  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  says  Captain  Bonneville, 
the  greatest  care  is  taken  of  their  horses,  those  prime  articles 
of  Indian  wealth,  and  objects  of  Indian  depredation.  Each 
warrior  has  his  horse  tied  by  one  foot  at  night  to  a  stake  plant- 
ed before  his  lodge.  Here  they  remain  until  broad  daylight ; 
by  that  time  the  young  men  of  the  camp  are  already  ranging 
over  the  surrounding  hills.  Each  family'  then  drives  its  horses 
to  some  eligible  spot,  where  they  are  loft  to  graze  imattended. 
A  young  Indian  repairs  occasionally  to  the  pasture  to  give 
them  water,  and  to  see  that  all  is  well.  So  accustomed  are  the 
horses  to  this  management,  that  they  keep  together  in  the  pas- 
ture where  they  have  been  left.  As  the  sun  sinks  behind  the 
hills,  they  may  be  seen  moving  from  all  points  toward  the 
camp,  where  they  surrender  themselves  to  be  tied  up  for  the 
night.  Even  in  situations  of  danger,  the  Indians  rarely  set 
guards  over  their  camp  at  night,  intrusting  that  office  entirely 
to  their  vigilant  and  well-trained  dogs. 

In  an  encampment,  however,  of  such  fancied  security  as  that 
in  which  Captain  Bonneville  found  his  Indian  friends,  much 
of  these  precautions  with  respect  to  their  horses  are  omitted. 
They  merely  drive  them,  at  nightfall,  to  some  sequestered  lit- 
tle dell,  and  leave  them  there,  at  perfect  liberty,  until  the 
morning. 

One  object  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  wintering  among  these 
Indians  was  to  procure  a  supply  of  horses  against  the  spring. 
They  were,  however,  extremely  unwilling  to  part  with  any, 
and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  he  purchased,  at  the  rate 
of  twenty  dollars  each,  a  few  for  the  use  of  some  of  his  free 
trappers  who  were  on  foot  and  dependent  on  him  for  their 
equipment. 


ABVE^'TURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  87 

In  this  encampment  Captain  Bonneville  remained  from  the 
21st  of  November  to  the  9th  of  December.  During  this  period 
the  thennometer  ranged  from  thu-teen  to  forty -two  dcgi-ees. 
There  were  occasional  falls  of  snow;  but  it  generally  melted 
away  almost  immediately,  and  the  tender  blades  of  new  grass 
began  to  shoot  up  among  the  old.  On  the  7th  of  December, 
however,  the  thermometer  fell  to  seven  degrees. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that,  on  distributing  his  forces  when 
in  Green  River  valley.  Captain  Bonneville  had  detached  a 
party,  headed  by  a  leader  of  the  name  of  Matthieu,  with  all  the 
weak  and  disabled  horses,  to  sojourn  about  Bear  River,  meet 
the  Shoshonie  bands,  and  afterward  to  rejoin  him  at  his  winter 
camp  on  Salmon  River. 

More  than  sufhcient  time  had  elapsed,  yet  Matthieu  failed  to 
make  his  appearance,  and  uneasiness  began  to  be  felt  on  his 
account.  Captain  Bonneville  sent  out  four  men,  to  range  the 
country  through  which  he  would  have  to  pass,  and  endeavor  to 
get  some  information  concerning  him ;  for  his  route  lay  across 
the  great  Snake  River  plain,  which  spreads  itself  out  like  an 
Arabian  desert,  and  on  which  a  cavalcade  could  be  descried  at 
a  great  distance.  The  scouts  soon  returned,  having  proceeded 
no  further  than  the  edge  of  the  plain,  pretending  that  their 
horees  were  lame ;  but  it  was  evident  they  had  feared  to  ven- 
ture, with  so  small  a  force,  into  these  exposed  and  dangerous 
regions. 

A  disease,  which  Captain  Bonneville  supposed  to  be  pneu- 
monia, now  appeared  among  the  Indians,  carrying  off  num- 
bers of  them  after  an  illness  of  three  or  four  days.  The 
worthy  captain  acted  as  physician,  prescribing  profuse  sweat- 
ings and  copious  bleedings,  and  uniformly  with  success,  if  the 
patient  were  subsequently  treated  with  proper  care.  In  extra- 
ordinary cases,  the  poor  savages  caUed  in  the  aid  of  their  own 
doctors  or  conjurors,  who  officiated  with  great  noise  and  mum- 
mery, but  with  little  benefit.  Those  who  died  during  this 
epidemic  were  buried  in  graves,  after  the  manner  of  the 
whites,  but  without  any  regard  to  the  direction  of  the  head. 
It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  notice  that,  while  this  malady  made  such 
ravages  among  the  natives,  laot  a  single  wliite  man  had  the 
slightest  symptom  of  it. 

J  A  familiar  intercourse  of  some  standing  -with  the  Pierced- 
nose  and  Flathead  Indians  had  now  convinced  Captain  Bonne- 
ville of  their  amicable  and  inoffensive  character ;  he  began  to 
take  a  strong  interest  in  them,  and  conceived  the  idea  of  be- 


88  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIX  BOyM:VILLE. 

coming  a  pacificator,  and  healing  the  deadly  feud  between 
them  and  the  Blackfect,  in  which  they  were  so  deplorably  the 
sufferci-s.  He  proposed  the  matter  to  some  of  the  leaders,  and 
virged  that  they  should  meet  the  Blackfeet  chiefs  in  a  grand 
pacific  conference,  offei'ing  to  send  two  of  his  men  to  the 
enemy's  camp  with  pipe,  tobacco  and  flag  of  truce,  to  nego- 
gotiate  the  proposed  meeting. 

•The  Nez  Pei-ces  and  Flathead  sages  upon  this  held  a  council 
of  war  of  two  days'  duration,  in  which  there  was  abundance  of 
hard  smoking  and  long  talking,  and  both  eloquence  and  to- 
bacco were  nearly  exhausted.  At  length  they  came  to  a  deci- 
sion to  reject  the  worthy  captain's  proposition,  and  upon 
pretty  substantial  grounds,  as  the  reader  may  judge. 

"War,"  said  the  chiefs,  "is  a  bloody  business,  and  full  of 
evil;  but  it  keeps  the  eyes  of  the  chiefs  always  open,  and 
makes  the  limbs  of  the  young  men  strong  and  supple.  In  war, 
every  one  is  on  the  alert.  If  we  see  a  trail  we  know  it  must  be 
an  enemy ;  if  the  Blackfeet  come  to  us,  we  know  it  is  for  war, 
and  we  are  ready.  Peace,  oa  the  other  hand,  sounds  no  alarm ; 
the  eyes  of  the  chiefs  are  closed  in  sleep,  and  the  young  men 
are  sleek  and  lazy.  The  horses  stray  into  the  mountains ;  the 
women  and  their  Httle  babes  go  about  alone.  But  the  heart  of 
a  Blackfoot  is  a  lie,  and  liis  tongue  is  a  trap.  If  he  says  peace 
it  is  to  deceive;  he  comes  to  us  as  a  brother;  he  smokes  his 
pipe  with  us ;  but  when  he  sees  us  weak,  and  off  our  guard,  he 
will  slay  and  steal.  We  will  have  no  such  peace ;  let  there  be 
war  1" 

With  this  reasoning  Captain  Bonneville  was  fain  to  ac- 
quiesce; but,  since  the  sagacious  Flatheads  and  their  allies 
were  content  to  remain  in  a  state  of  warfare,  he  wished  them 
at  least  to  exercise  the  boasted  vigilance  which  war  was  to 
produce,  and  to  keep  their  eyes  open.  He  represented  to  them 
the  impossibility  that  two  such  considerable  clans  could  move 
about  the  coimtry  without  leaving  trails  by  which  they  might 
be  traced.  Besides,  among  the  Blackfeet  braves  were  several 
Nez  Perces,  who  had  been  taken  prisoners  in  early  youth, 
adopted  by  their  captors,  and  trained  up  and  imbued  with 
warhke  and  predatory  notions ;  these  had  lost  aU  sympathies 
Avith  their  native  tribe,  and  would  be  prone  to  lead  the  enemy 
to  their  secret  haunts.  He  exhorted  them,  therefore,  to  keep 
upon  the  alert,  and  never  to  remit  their  vigilance  while  within 
the  range  of  so  crafty  and  cruel  a  foe.  All  these  counsels  were 
lost  upon  his  easy  and  simple-minded  hearers.    A  careless  in- 


ADVEyrURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  89 

difference  reigned  throughout  their  encampments,  and  then 
horses  were  permitted  to  range  the  hills  at  night  in  perrect 
freedom.  Captain  Bonneville  had  his  own  horses  brought  in 
at  night,  and  properly  piclvoted  and  guarded.  The  evil  he  ap- 
prehended soon  took  i»lace.  In  a  single  night  a  swoop  was 
made  through  the  neighboring  pastures  by  the  Ulackfeet,  and 
eighty-six  of  the  linest  horses  carried  off.  A  whip  and  a  rope 
were  left  in  a  conspicuous  situation  by  the  robbers,  as  a  taunt 
to  the  simpletons  they  had  unhorsed. 

Long  before  sunrise  the  news  of  this  calamity  spread  like 
wildfire  through  the  different  encampments.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, whose  own  horses  remained  safe  at  their  jiickets,  watched 
in  momentary  expectation  of  an  outbreak  of  warriors,  Pierced- 
nose  and  Flathead,  in  furious  pursuit  of  the  marauders;  but 
no  such  thing — they  contented  themselves  with  searching  dili- 
gently over  hill  and  dale,  to  glean  up  such  horses  as  had 
escaped  the  hands  of  the  marauders,  and  then  resigned  them- 
selves to  their  loss  with  the  most  exemplary  quiescence. 

Some,  it  is  true,  who  were  entirely  unhorsed,  set  out  on  a 
begging  visit  to  their  cousins,  as  they  called  them,  the  Lower 
Nez  Forces,  who  inhabit  the  lower  country  about  the  Colum- 
bia, and  possess  horses  in  abundance.  To  these  they  repair 
when  in  difficulty,  and  seldom  fail,  by  dint  of  begging  and  bar- 
tering, to  get  themselves  once  more  mounted  on  horseback. 

Game  had  now  become  scarce  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
camp,  and  it  was  necessary,  according  to  Indian  custom,  to 
move  off  to  a  less  beaten  ground.  Captain  Bonneville  pro- 
posed the  Horse  Prairie ;  but  his  Indian  friends  objected  that 
many  of  the  Nez  Perces  had  gone  to  visit  their  cousins,  and 
that  the  whites  were  few  in  number,  so  that  their  united  force 
was  not  sufficient  to  venture  upon  the  buffalo  grounds,  which 
were  infested  by  bands  of  Blackfeet. 

They  now  spoke  of  a  place  at  no  great  distance,  which  they 
represented  as  a  perfect  lumter's  elj'sium.  It  was  on  the  right 
branch,  or  head  stream  of  the  river,  locked  up  among  cliffs  and 
precipices  where  there  was  no  danger  from  roving  bands,  and 
where  the  Blackfeet  dare  not  enter.  Here,  they  said,  the  elk 
aboimded,  and  the  mountain  sheep  were  to  be  seen  troopmg 
upon  the  rocks  and  hills.  X  little  distance  beyond  it,  also, 
herds  of  buffalo  were  to  be  met  with,  out  of  the  range  of  dan- 
ger.    Thither  they  proposed  to  move  their  camp. 

The  proposition  pleased  the  captain,  who  was  desirous, 
through  the  Indians,  of   becoming  acquainted  with  all   the 


90  ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

secret  places  of  the  land.  Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  Decem- 
ber, they  struck  their  tents,  and  moved  forward  by  short 
stages,  as  many  of  the  Indians  were  yet  feeble  from  the  late 
malady. 

Following  up  the  right  fork  of  the  river  they  came  to  where 
it  entered  a  deep  gorge  of  the  mountains,  up  which  lay  the  se- 
cluded region  so  much  valued  by  the  Indians.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville halted  and  encamped  for  three  days  before  entering  the 
gorge.  In  the  meantime  he  detached  five  of  his  free  trappers 
to  scour  the  hills,  and  kill  as  many  elk  as  possible,  before  the 
main  body  should  enter,  as  they  would  then  be  soon  frightened 
away  by  the  various  Indian  hunting  parties. 

While  thus  encamped,  they  were  still  liaV.e  to  the  marauds 
of  the  Blackfeet,  and  Captain  Bonneville  admonished  his 
Indian  friends  to  be  upon  their  guard.  The  Nez  Perces,  how- 
ever, notwithstanding  their  recent  loss,  were  still  careless  of 
their  horses ;  merely  driving  them  to  some  secluded  spot,  and 
leaving  them  there  for  the  night,  without  sotting  any  guard 
upon  them.  The  consequence  Avas  a  second  swoop,  in  which 
forty-one  were  carried  o^.  This  was  borne  with  equal  philoso- 
phy with  the  first,  and  no  effort  was  made  either  to  recover 
the  horses,  or  to  take  vengeance  on  the  thieves. 

The  Nez  Perces,  however,  grew  more  cautious  with  respect 
to  their  remaining  horses,  driving  them  regularly  to  the  camp 
every  evening,  and  fastening  them  to  pickets.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, however,  told  them  that  this  was  not  enough.  It  was 
evident  they  were  dogged  by  a  daring  and  persevering  enemy, 
who  was  encouraged  by  past  impunity;  they  should,  there- 
fore, take  more  than  usual  precautions,  and  post  a  guard  at 
night  over  their  cavalry.  They  could  not,  however,  be  per- 
suaded to  depart  from  their  usual  custom.  The  horse  once 
picketed,  the  care  of  the  owner  was  over  for  the  night,  and  he 
slept  profoundly.  None  waked  in  the  camp  but  the  gamblers, 
who,  absorbed  in  their  play,  were  more  difficult  to  be  roused 
to  external  circumstances  than  even  the  sleepers. 

The  Blackfeet  are  bold  enemies,  and  fond  of  hazardous  ex- 
ploits. The  band  that  were  hovering  a'bout  the  neighborhood, 
finding  that  they  had  such  pacific  people  to  deal  with,  re- 
doubled their  daring.  The  horses  being  now  picketed  before 
the  lodges,  a  number  of  Blackfeet  scouts  penetrated  in  the 
early  part  of  the  night  into  the  very  centre  of  the  camp.  Here 
they  went  about  among  the  lodges  as  calmly  and  deliberately  as 
if  at  home,  quietly  cutting  loose  the  horses  that  stood  picketed 


ADVENTURED   OF  GAPTMX  EOXNEVILLE.  01 

by  the  lodges  of  their  sleeping  owners.  One  of  these  prowlers, 
more  adventurous  than  the  rest,  approaelied  a  fire  round  which 
a  gi'0ui>  of  Nez  Percys  were  gambling  with  the  most  intense 
eagerness.  Here  he  stood  for  some  time,  muffled  up  in  his 
robe,  peering  over  the  shoulders  of  the  players,  watching  the 
changes  of  their  countenances  and  the  fluctuations  of  the 
game.  So  completely  engrossed  were  they,  that  the  presence 
of  tliis  muffled  eaves-dropper  was  unnoticed  and,  having  exe- 
cuted his  bravado,  he  retired  undiscovered. 

Having  cut  loose  as  many  horses  as  they  could  conveniently 
carry  off,  the  Blackfeet  scouts  rejoined  their  comrades,  and 
all  remained  patiently  round  the  camp.  By  degrees  the 
horses,  finding  themselves  at  hbci-ty,  took  their  route  toward 
theu"  customary  grazing  ground.  As  they  emerged  from  the 
camp  they  were  silently  taken  possession  of,  until,  having 
secured  about  thirty,  the  Blackfeet  sprang  on  their  backs 
and  scampered  off.  The  clatter  of  hoofs  sta^-tled  the  gam- 
blers from  their  game.  They  gave  the  alarm,  which  soon 
roused  the  sleepers  from  every  lodge.  Still  aU  was  quiescent ; 
no  marshalling  of  forces,  no  saddling  of  steeds  and  dashing 
off  in  pursuit,  no  talk  of  retribution  for  their  repeated  out- 
rages. The  patience  of  Captain  Bonneville  was  at  length  ex- 
hausted. He  had  played  the  part  of  a  pacificator  Avithout 
success ;  he  now  altered  his  tone,  and  resolved,  if  possible,  to 
rouse  their  war  spirit. 

Accordingly,  convoking  their  chiefs,  he  inveighed  against 
their  craven  policy,  and  urged  the  necessity  of  vigorous  and 
retributive  measures  that  would  check  the  confidence  and 
presumpti»n  of  their  enemies,  if  not  inspire  them  vnih.  awe. 
For  this  purpose,  he  advised  that  a  war  party  should  be  imme- 
diately sent  off  on  the  trail  of  the  marauders,  to  follow  them, 
if  necessary,  into  the  very  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  country,  and 
not  to  leave  them  until  they  had  taken  signal  vengeance.  Be- 
side this,  he  recommended  the  organization  of  minor  war 
parties,  to  make  reprisals  to  the  extent  of  the  losses  sustained. 
"Unless  you  rouse  yourselves  from  your  apathy,"  said  he, 
"and  strike  some  bold  and  decisive  blow,  you  will  cease  to  be 
considered  men,  or  objects  of  manly  warfare.  The  very 
squaws  and  children  of  the  Blackfeet  wiU  be  set  against  you,' 
while  their  warriors  reserve  themselves  for  nobler  antag- 
onists." 

This  harangue  had  evidently  a  momentary  effect  upon  the 
pride  of  the  hearers.    After  a  short  pause,  however,  one  of  the 


92  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

orators  arose.  It  was  bad,  he  said,  to  go  to  war  for  mere  re- 
venge. The  Great  Spirit  had  given  them  a  heart  for  peace, 
not  for  war.  They  had  lost  horses,  it  was  true,  but  they  could 
easily  get  others  from  their  cousins,  the  Lower  Nez  Perces, 
without  incurring  any  risk ;  Avhereas,  in  war  they  should  lose 
men,  who  were  not  so  readily  replaced.  As  to  their  late  losses, 
an  increased  watclifulness  would  prevent  any  more  misfor- 
tunes of  the  kind.  He  disapproved,  therefore,  of  all  hostile 
measures ;  and  all  the  other  chiefs  concurred  in  his  '^pinion. 

Captain  Bonneville  again  took  up  the  point.  "It  is  true," 
said  he,  ' '  the  Great  Spirit  has  given  you  a  heart  to  love  your 
friends;  but  he  has  also  given  you  an  arm  to  strike  your 
enemies.  Unless  you  do  something  speedily  to  put  an  end  to 
this  continual  plundering,  I  must  say  farewell.  As  yet  I  have 
sustained  no  loss ;  thanks  to  the  precautions  which  you  have 
slighted ;  but  my  property  is  too  unsafe  here ;  my  turn  will 
come  next ;  I  and  my  people  will  share  the  contempt  you  are 
bringing  upon  yourselves,  and  will  be  thought,  like  you,  poor- 
spirited  beings,  who  may  at  any  time  be  plundered  with  im- 
punity." 

The  conference  broke  up  with  some  signs  of  excitement  on 
the  part  of  the  Indians.  Early  the  next  morning,  a  party  of 
thirty  men  set  off  in  pursuit  of  the  foe,  and  Captain  Bonne- 
ville hoped  to  hear  a  good  account  of  the  Blackfeet  marau- 
ders. To  his  disappointment,  the  war  party  came  lagging 
back  on  the  following  day,  leading  a  few  old,  sorry,  broken- 
down  horses,  which  the  f  ree-booters  had  not  been  able  to  urge 
to  sufficient  speed.  Tliis  effort  exhausted  the  martial  spirit, 
and  satisfied  the  woimded  pride  of  the  Nez  Forces,  and  they 
relapsed  into  their  usual  state  of  passive  indifference. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

STORY  OP    KOSATO,    THE   RENEGADE  BLACKFOOT. 

If  the  meekness  and  long-suffering  of  the  Pierced-noses 
grieved  the  spirit  of  Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  another  in- 
dividual in  the  camp  to  whom  they  were  stiU  more  annoying. 
This  was  a  Blackfoot  renegado,  named  Kosato,  a  fiery  hot- 
blooded  youth  who,  with  a  beautiful  girl  of  the  same  tribo, 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  UONMJVILLE.  93 

had  taken  refuge  among  the  Nez  Perces.  Though  adopted 
mto  the  tribe,  he  still  retained  the  warlike  spirit  of  his  race, 
and  loathed  the  peaceful,  inoffensive  habits  of  those  around 
him.  The  hunting  of  the  deer,  the  elk,  and  the  buffalo,  which 
was  the  height  of  their  ambition,  was  too  tame  to  satisfy  his 
wild  and  restless  natiu-e.  His  heart  burned  for  the  foraj',  the 
ambush,  the  skirmish,  the  scamper,  and  all  the  haps  and 
hazards  of  roving  and  predatory  warfare. 

The  recent  hoverings  of  the  Blackfeet  about  the  camp,  their 
nightly  prowls  and  daring  and  successful  marauds,  had  kept 
him  in  a  fever  and  a  flutter,  like  a  hawk  in  a  cage  who  hears 
his  late  companions  swooping  and  screaming  in  wild  liberty 
above  him.  The  attempt  of  Captain  Bonneville  to  rouse  the 
war  spirit  of  the  Nez  Perces,  and  i^rompt  them  to  retaliation, 
was  ardently  seconded  by  Kosato.  For  several  days  he  was 
incessantly  devising  schemes  of  vengeance,  and  endeavoring  to 
set  on  foot  an  expedition  that  should  cany  dismay  and  desola- 
tion into  the  Blackfeet  town.  All  his  art  was  exerted  to  touch 
upon  those  springs  of  human  action  with  which  ho  was  most 
familiar.  He  drew  the  listening  savages  round  him  by  his  ner- 
vous eloquence;  taunted  them  with  recitals  of  past  wrongs  and 
insults;  drew  glowing  pictures  of  triumphs  and  trophies  Avithin 
their  reach;  recounted  tales  of  daring  and  romantic  enterprise, 
of  secret  marchings,  covert  lurkings,  midnight  surprisals,  sack- 
ings, burnings,  plunderings,  scalpings;  together  with  the  tri 
umphant  return,  and  the  feasting  and  rejoicing  of  the  victors. 
These  wild  tales  were  intermingled  wath  the  beating  of  the 
dinim,  the  yell,  the  war-whoop  and  the  war-dance,  so  inspiring 
to  Indian  valor.  All,  however,  were  lost  upon  the  peaceful 
spirits  of  his  hearers;  not  a  Nez  Perce  was  to  be  roused  to  ven- 
geance, or  stimulated  to  glorious  war.  In  the  bitterness  of  his 
heart,  the  Blackfoot  renegado  repined  at  the  mishap  which  had 
severed  him  from  a  race  of  congenial  spirits,  and  driven  him  to 
take  refuge  among  beings  so  destitute  of  martial  fire. 

The  character  and  conduct  of  this  man  attracted  the  atten- 
tion of  Captain  Bonneville,  and  he  was  anxious  to  hoar  the 
reason  why  he  had  deserted  his  tribe,  and  why  he  looked  back 
upon  them  with  such  deadly  hostility.  Kosato  told  him  his 
own  story  briefly :  it  gives  a  picture  of  the  deep,  strong  pas- 
sions that  work  in  the  bosoms  of  these  miscalled  stoics. 

"You  see  my  wife,"  said  he,  "  she  is  good;  she  is  beautiful — 
I  love  her.  Yet  she  has  been  the  cause  of  all  my  troubles. 
She  was  the  wife  of  my  chief.     I  loved  her  more  than  he  did ; 


94  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  she  knew  it.  We  talked  together ;  we  laughed  together ;  we 
were  always  seeking  each  other's  society ;  but  we  were  as  inno- 
cent as  cliildren.  The  chief  grew  jealous,  and  commanded  her 
to  speak  with  me  no  more.  His  heart  became  hard  toward  her ; 
his  jealousy  grew  more  furious.  He  beat  her  without  cause  and 
without  mercy ;  and  threatened  to  kill  her  outright  if  she  even 
looked  at  me.  Do  you  want  traces  of  his  fury  ?  Look  at  that  scar ! 
His  rage  against  me  was  no  less  persecuting.  War  parties  of 
the  Crows  were  hovering  round  us ;  our  young  men  had  seen 
their  trail.  All  hearts  were  roused  for  action ;  my  horses  were 
before  my  lodge.  Suddenly  the  chief  came,  took  them  to  his 
own  pickets,  and  called  them  his  own.  What  could  I  do?  he 
was  a  chief.  I  durst  not  speak,  but  my  heart  was  burning.  T 
joined  no  longer  in  the  council,  the  hunt,  or  the  war-feast. 
What  had  I  to  do  there?  an  unhorsed,  degraded  warrior.  1 
kept  by  myself,  and  thought  of  notliing  but  these  wrongs  and 
outrages. 

' '  I  was  sitting  one  evening  upon  a  knoll  that  overlooked  the 
meadow  where  the  horses  were  pastured.  I  saw  the  horses  that 
were  once  mine  grazing  among  those  of  the  chief.  This  mad- 
dened me,  and  I  sat  brooding  for  a  time  over  the  injviries  I  had 
suffered,  and  the  cruelties  which  she  I  loved  had  endvired  for 
my  sake,  until  my  heart  swelled  and  grew  sore,  and  my  teeth 
were  clinched.  As  I  looked  down  upon  the  meadow  I  saAv  the 
chief  walking  among  his  horses.  I  fastened  my  eyes  upon  him 
as  a  hawk's ;  my  blood  boiled ;  I  drew  my  breath  hard.  He  went 
among  the  willows.  In  an  instant  I  was  on  my  feet;  my  hand 
was  on  my  knife  —I  flew  rather  than  ran — before  he  was  aware 
I  sprang  upon  him,  and  with  two  blows  laid  him  dead  at  my 
feet.  I  covered  his  body  with  earth,  and  strewed  bushes  over 
the  place ;  then  I  hastened  to  her  I  loved,  told  her  what  I  had 
done,  and  urged  her  to  fly  with  me.  She  only  answered  me 
with  tears.  I  reminded  her  of  the  wrong;?  I  had  suffered,  and 
of  the  blows  and  stripes  she  had  endured  from  the  deceased;  I 
had  done  nothing  but  an  act  of  justice.  I  again  urged  her  to 
fly ;  but  she  only  wept  the  more,  and  bade  me  go.  My  heart 
was  heavy,  but  my  eyes  were  dry.  I  folded  my  arms.  '  'Tis 
well,'  said  I;  '  Kosato  will  go  alone  to  the  desert.  None  will 
be  with  him  but  the  wild  beasts  of  the  desert.  The  seekers 
of  blood  may  follow  on  his  trail.  They  may  come  upon  him 
when  he  sleeps  and  glut  their  revenge ;  but  you  will  be  safe. 
Kosato  will  go  alone. ' 

"I  turned  away.    She  sprang  after  me,  and  strained  me  in 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  95 

her  arras.  '  No, '  cried  she,  '  Kosato  shall  not  go  alone  1  Wher- 
ever he  goes  I  will  go — ho  shall  never  part  from  nie. ' 

*'  We  hastily  took  in  onr  hands  such  things  as  wo  most 
needed,  and  stealing  (juietly  from  the  village,  mounted  the  firet 
horses  we  encountered.  Speeding  day  and  night,  we  soon 
reached  this  tribe.  They  received  us  with  welcome,  and  wo 
have  dwelt  with  them  in  peace.  They  are  good  and  kind ;  they 
are  honest;  but  tlieir  hearts  are  the  hearts  of  women." 

Such  was  the  story  of  Kosato,  as  related  by  him  to  Captain 
Bonneville.  It  is  of  a  kind  that  often  occiu's  in  Indian  life ; 
where  love  elopements  from  tribe  to  tribe  are  as  frequent  as 
among  the  novel-read  heroes  and  heroines  of  sentimental 
civiliisatioh,  and  often  give  rise  to  bloody  and  lasting  feuds. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE  PARTY  ENTERS  THE  MOUNTAIN  GORGE — A  WILD  FASTNESS 
AMONG  HILLS— MOUNTAIN  MUTTON — PEACE  AND  PLENTY— THE 
A3IOROUS  TRAPPER— A  PIEBALD  WEDDING— A  FREE  TRAPPER'S 
WIFE— HER  GALA  EQUIP3IENTS— CHRISTMAS  IN  THE  WILDER- 
NESS. 

On  the  19th  of  December  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  con- 
federate Indians  raised  their  camp,  and  entered  tlie  narrow 
gorge  made  by  the  north  fork  of  Salmon  River.  Up  this  lay 
the  secure  and  plenteous  hunting  region  so  temptingly  described 
by  the  Indians. 

Since  leaving  Green  River  tlie  plains  had  invariably  been  of 
loose  sand  or  coarse  gravel,  and  the  rocky  fdiniation  of  th(^ 
mountains  of  iirimitive  limestone.  The  livere,  in  general, 
were  skirted  with  willows  and  bitter  cotton-wood  trees,  and 
the  prairies  covered  with  wormwood.  In  the  hollow  breast  of 
the  mountains  which  they  were  now  penetrating,  the  surround- 
ing heights  Avere  clothed  with  pine;  while  the  declivities  of  tho 
lower  hills  afforded  abundance  of  bunch  grass  for  the  laorses. 

As  the  Indians  had  represented,  they  were  now  in  a  natural 
fastness  of  the  mountains,  the  ingress  and  egress  of  which  was 
by  a  deep  gorge,  so  narrow,  ruc-ged,  and  difficult  as  to  prevent 
socT-et  approacli  or  rapid  retreat,  and  to  admit  of  easj'  defence. 
The  Biackfoct,  therefore,  refrained  from  venturing  in  after  tho 


96  AJJVBu\'TUIihti  OF  CAPTAiy  BONNEVILLE. 

Ncz  Perces,  awaitinjr  a  better  cliance,  when  they  should  once 
more  emerge  into  the  open  country. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  found  that  the  Indians  had  not  ex- 
aggerated the  advantages  of  this  region.  Besides  the  numer- 
ous gangs  of  elk,  large  flocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  the 
mountain  sheep,  were  to  be  seen  bounding  among  the  preci- 
pices. These  simple  animals  Avere  easily  circumvented  and 
destroyed.  A  few  huntei-s  may  surround  a  flock  and  kill  as 
many  as  they  please.  Nrunbers  were  daily  brought  into 
camp,  and  the  flesh  of  those  which  were  young  and  fat  was 
extolled  as  superior  to  the  finest  mutton. 

Here,  then,  there  was  a  cessation  from  toil,  from  hunger, 
and  alarm.  Past  ills  and  dangers  were  forgotten.  •  The  hunt, 
the  game,  the  song,  the  story,  the  rough  though  good-hu- 
mored joke,  made  time  pass  joyously  away,  and  plenty  and 
security  reigned  throughout  the  camp. 

Idleness  and  ease,  it  is  said,  lead  to  love,  and  love  to  matri- 
mony, in  civilized  life,  and  the  same  procass  takes  place  in  the 
wilderness.  Filled  with  good  cheer  and  mountain  mutton, 
one  of  the  free  trappers  began  to  repine  at  the  solitude  of  his 
lodge,  and  to  experience  the  force  of  that  great  law  of  nature, 
"  it  is  not  meet  for  man  to  live  alone." 

After  a  night  of  grave  cogitation  he  repaired  to  Kowsoter, 
the  Pierced-nose  chief,  and  unfolded  to  him  the  secret  work- 
ings of  his  bosom. 

"  I  want,"  said  he,  "a  wife.  Give  me  one  from  among  your 
tribe.  Not  a  young,  giddy-pated  girl,  that  will  think  of  noth- 
ing but  flaunting  and  finery,  but  a  sober,  discreet,  hard-work- 
ing squaw ;  one  that  wiU  share  my  lot  without  flinching,  how- 
ever hard  it  may  be ;  that  can  take  care  of  my  lodge,  and  be 
a  companion  and  a  helpmate  to  me  in  the  wilderness."  Kow- 
soter promised  to  look  round  among  the  females  of  his  tribe, 
and  procure  such  a  one  as  he  desired.  Two  days  were  requi- 
site for  the  search.  At  the  expiration  of  these,  Kowsoter 
called  at  his  lodge,  and  informed  him  that  he  would  bring 
his  bride  to  him  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon.  He  kept  his 
word.  At  the  appointed  time  he  approached,  leading  the 
bride,  a  comely  copper-colored  dame  attired  in  her  Indian 
finery.  Her  father,  mother,  brothers  by  the  half  dozen  and 
cousins  by  the  score,  all  followed  on  to  grace  the  ceremony 
and  greet  the  new  and  important  relative. 

The  trapper  received  his  new  and  numerous  family  connec- 
tion with  proper  solemnity;  he  placed  his  bride  beside  him, 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLK.  97 

and,  fiUinp:  the  pipe,  the  great  symbol  of  peace,  with  his  best 
tobacco,  took  two  or  three  whiffs,  then  handed  it  to  the  chief 
who  transferred  it  to  the  father  of  the  bride,  from  whom  it 
was  passed  on  from  hand  to  hand  and  mouth  to  mouth  of  the 
whole  circle  of  kinsmen  round  the  fire,  all  maintaining  the 
most  profound  and  becoming  silence. 

After  several  pipes  had  been  filled  and  emptied  in  this  sol- 
emn ceremonial,  the  chief  addressed  the  bride,  detailing  at 
considerable  length  the  duties  of  a  wife  which,  among  In- 
dians, are  little  less  onerous  than  those  of  the  pack-horse; 
this  done,  he  turned  to  her  friends  and  congratulated  them 
upon  the  great  alliance  she  had  made.  They  showed  a  due 
sense  of  their  good  fortune,  especially  when  the  nuptial  pres- 
ents came  to  be  distributed  among  the  chiefs  and  relatives, 
amounting  to  about  one  himdred  and  eightj^  dollars.  The 
company  soon  retired,  and  now  the  worthy  trapper  found 
indeed  that  he  had  no  green  girl  to  deal  with ;  for  the  know  • 
ing  dame  at  once  assumed  the  style  and  dignity  of  a  trapper's 
wife:  taking  possession  of  the  lodge  as  her  undisputed  em- 
pire, arranging  everything  according  to  her  own  taste  and 
nabitudes,  and  appearing  as  much  at  home  and  on  as  easy 
terms  with  the  trapper  as  if  thcj^  had  been  man  and  wife  for 
years. 

We  have  already  given  a  picture  of  a  free  trapper  and  his 
hoi'se,  as  fui'nished  by  Captain  J^onneville :  we  shall  here  sub- 
join, as  a  companion  picture,  his  description  of  a  free  trap- 
per's wife,  that  the  reader  may  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  kind 
of  blessing  the  worthy  hunter  in  question  had  invoked  to  so- 
lace him  in  the  wilderness. 

"  The  free  trapper,  whde'a  bachelor,  has  no  greater  pet  than 
his  horse ;  but  the  moment  he  takes  a  wife  (a  sort  of  brevet 
rank  in  matrimony  occasionallj'  bestowed  upon  some  Indian 
fair  one,  like  the  heroes  of  ancient  chivalry  in  the  open  field), 
he  discovers  that  he  has  a  still  more  fanciful  and  capricious 
animal  on  which  to  lavish  his  expenses. 

"  No  sooner  does  an  Indian  belle  experience  this  promotion, 
than  all  her  notions  at  once  rise  and  expand  to  the  dignity  of 
her  situation,  and  the  purse  of  her  lover,  and  his  credit  into 
the  bargain,  are  taxed  to  the  iitmost  to  fit  her  out  in  becoming 
style.  The  wife  of  a  free  trapper  to  be  equipped  and  ai-rayed 
like  any  oi'dinary  and  undistinguished  squaw?  Perish  tbj 
grovelling  thought  I  In  the  first  place,  she  must  have  a  horse 
for  her  own  riding;  but  no  jaded,  sorry,  cai'th-spirited  hack. 


98  ADVENTURES   OB'  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

such  as  is  sometimes  assigned  by  an  Indian  husband  for  the 
transportation  of  his  squaw  and  her  pappooses :  the  wife  of  a 
free  trapper  must  have  the  most  beautiful  animal  she  can  lay 
her  eyes  on.  And  then,  as  to  his  decoration:  headstall,  breast- 
bands,  saddle  and  crupper  are  lavishly  embroidered  with  beads, 
and  hung  with  thimbles,  hawks'  bells,  and  bunches  of  ribbons. 
From  each  side  of  the  saddle  hangs  an  csquimoot,  a  sort  of 
pocket,  in  which  she  bestows  the  residue  of  her  trinkets  and 
nick-nacks,  which  cannot  be  crowded  on  the  decoration  of  her 
horse  or  herself.  Over  this  she  folds,  with  great  care,  a 
drapery  of  scarlet  and  bright-colored  calicoes,  and  now  con- 
siders the  caparison  of  her  steed  complete. 

"As  to  her  own  person,  she  is  even  still  more  extravagant. 
Her  hair,  esteemed  beautiful  in  proportion  to  its  length,  is 
carefully  plaited,  and  made  to  fall  with  seeming  negligence 
over  either  breast.  Her  riding  hat  is  stuck  full  of  party-col- 
ored feathers ;  her  robe,  fashioned  somewhat  after  that  of  the 
"whites,  is  of  red,  green,  and  sometimes  gray  cloth,  but  always 
of  the  finest  texture  that  can  be  procured.  Her  leggins  and 
moccasins  are  of  the  most  beautiful  and  expensive  workman- 
ship, and  fitted  neatly  to  the  foot  and  ankle,  which  with  the 
Indian  women  are  generally  well  formed  and  delicate.  Then 
as  to  jewelry :  in  the  way  of  fmger-rings,  ear-rings,  necklaces, 
and  other  female  glories,  nothing  within  roach  of  the  trapper's 
nienns  is  omitted  that  can  tend  to  impress  the  beholder  with 
an  idea  of  the  lady's  high  estate.  To  finish  the  whole,  she  se- 
lects from  among  her  blankets  of  various  dyes  one  of  some 
glowing  color,  and  throwing  it  over  her  shoulders  with  a  na- 
tive grace,  vaults  into  the  saddle  of  her  gay.  prancing  steed, 
and  is  ready  to  follow  her  mountaineer  '  to  the  last  gasp  with 
love  and  loyalty.' " 

Such  is  the  general  picture  of  the  free  trapper's  wife,  given 
by  Captain  Bonneville;  how  far  it  applied  in  its  details  to  the 
one  in  question  does  not  altogether  appear,  though  it  would 
seem  from  the  outset  of  her  connubial  career,  that  she  was 
ready  to  avail  herself  of  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  her 
new  condition.  It  is  worthy  of  mention  that  wherever  there 
are  several  wives  of  free  trappers  in  a  camp,  the  keenest  rival- 
ry exists  between  them,  to  the  sore  detriment  of  their  hus- 
bands' purses.  Their  whole  time  is  expended  and  their  inge- 
nuity tasked  by  endeavors  to  eclipse  each  other  in  dress  and 
decoration.  The  jealousies  and  heart-burnings  thus  occasioned 
among  these  so-styled  children  of  nature  are  equally  intense 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  99 

with  those  of  the  rival  loaders  of  style  and  fashion  in  the  luxu- 
rious abodes  of  civilized  life. 

The  genial  festival  of  Christinas,  which  throughout  all  Chris- 
tendom lights  up  the  fireside  of  home  with  niirlh  and  jollity, 
followed  hard  upon  the  wedding  just  described.  Though  tar 
from  kindred  and  friends,  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  handfiil 
of  free  trappers  were  not  disposed  to  suffer  the  festival  to  pass 
unenjoyed ;  they  were  in  a  region  of  good  cheer,  and  were  dis- 
posed to  be  joyous;  so  it  was  determined  to  "  light  up  the  yule 
clog,"  and  celebrate  a  merry  Christmas  in  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness. 

On  Christmas  eve,  accordingly,  they  began  their  rude  fetes 
and  rejoicings.  In  the  course  of  the  night  the  free  trappers 
surrounded  the  lodge  of  the  Pierced-nose  chief  and  in  lieu  of 
Christmas  carols,  saluted  him.  with  a/eit  dcjoie. 

Kowsoter  received  it  in  a  truly  Christian  spirit,  and  after  a 
speech,  in  which  he  expressed  his  high  gratification  at  the 
honor  done  him,  invited  the  whole  company  to  a  feast  on  the 
following  day.  His  invitation  was  gladly  accepted.  A  Christ- 
mas dinner  in  the  wigwam  of  an  Indian  chief !  There  was  nov- 
elty in  the  idea.  Not  one  failed  to  be  present.  The  banquet 
was  served  up  in  primitive  style :  skins  of  various  kinds,  nicely 
dressed  for  the  occasion,  were  spread  upon  the  ground ;  upon 
these  were  heaped  up  abundance  of  venison,  elk  meat,  and 
mountain  mutton,  with  various  bitter  roots  which  the  Indians 
Use  as  condiments. 

After  a  short  prayer,  the  company  all  seated  themselves 
cross-logged,  in  Turkish  fashion,  to  the  banquet,  which  passed 
off  with  gi-eat  hilarity.  After  Avhich  various  games  of  strength 
and  agility  by  both  -white  men  and  Indians  closed  the  Chi'ist- 
mas  festivities. 


100         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTEE  XV. 

k  HUNT  AFTER  HUNTERS— HUNGRY  TIMES— A  VORACIOUS  RE- 
PAST—WINTRY WEATHER — GODIN's  RIVER— SPLENDID  WINTER 
SCENE  ON  THE  GREAT  LAVA  PLAIN  OP  SNAKE  RIVER— SEVERE 
TRAVELLING  AND  TRAMPING  IN  THE  SNOW— MANCEUVRES  OF  A 
SOLITARY  INDIAN  HORSEMAN — ENCAJIPMENT  ON  SNAKE  RIVER 
— BANNECK   INDIANS— THE   HORSE   CHIEF — HIS  CHARMED   LIFE. 

The  continued  absence  of  Matthieu  and  his  party  had,  by  this 
time,  caused  great  uneasiness  in  the  mind  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville ;  and,  finding  there  was  no  dependence  to  be  placed  upon 
the  perseverance  and  courage  of  scouting  parties  in  so  perilous 
a  quest,  he  determined  to  set  out  himself  on  the  search,  and  to 
keep  on  until  he  should  ascertain  something  of  the  object  of 
his  soKcitude. 

Accordingly  on  the  26th  December  he  left  the  camp,  ac- 
companied by  thirteen  stark  trappers  and  hunters,  all  well 
mounted  and  armed  for  dangerous  enterprise.  On  the  follow- 
ing morning  they  passed  out  at  the  head  of  the  mountain  gorge 
and  sallied  forth  into  the  open  plain.  As  they  confidently  ex- 
pected a  brush  with  the  Blackfeet,  or  some  other  predatory 
horde,  they  moved  with  great  circumspection,  and  kept  vigi- 
lant watch  in  their  encampments. 

In  the  course  of  another  day  they  left  the  main  branch  of 
Salmon  River,  and  proceeded  south  toward  a  pass  called  John 
Day's  defile.  It  was  severe  and  arduous  travelling.  The 
plains  were  swept  by  keen  and  bitter  blasts  of  wintry  wind ; 
the  ground  was  generally  covered  with  snow,  game  was  scarce, 
so  that  hunger  generally  prevailed  in  the  camp,  while  the  want 
of  pasturage  soon  began  to  manifest  itself  in  the  declining  vigor 
of  the  horses. 

The  party  had  scarcely  encamped  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
2Sth,  when  two  of  the  hunters  who  had  sallied  forth  in  quest 
of  game  came  galloping  back  in  great  alarm.  While  hunting 
they  had  perceived  a  party  of  savages,  evidently  manoeuvring 
to  cut  them  off  from  the  camp ;  and  nothing  had  saved  them 
from  being  entrapped  but  the  speed  of  their  horses. 

These  tidings  struck  dismay  into  the  camp.     Captain  Bonne' 


ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         ]01 

ville  endeavored  to  reassure  his  men  by  representing  the  posi- 
tion ot  their  eneanipnient,  and  its  capahihty  of  defence.  He 
then  ordered  tlie  liorses  to  be  driven  in  and  picketed,  and 
threw  up  a  rough  breastwork  of  fallen  trunks  of  trees  and  the 
vegetable  rubbish  of  the  wilderness.  Within  this  barrier  was 
maintained  a  vigilant  watch  throughout  the  night,  "which 
passed  away  without  alarm.  At  early  dawn  they  scrutinized 
the  surrounding  plain,  to  discover  whether  any  enemies  had 
been  lurking  about  dm-ing  the  night;  not  a  foot-print,  however, 
was  to  bo  <liscovered  in  the  coarse  gi'avel  with  w-hich  the  plain 
was  covered. 

Hunger  now  began  to  cause  more  uneasiness  than  the  appre- 
hensions of  surrounding  enemies.  After  marching  a  few  miles 
they  encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  in  hopes  of  finding 
buffal-o.  It  was  not  until  the  next  day  that  they  discovered  a 
pair  of  fine  bulls  on  the  edge  of  the  plain,  among  rocks  and  ra- 
vines. Having  now  been  two  days  and  a  half  Avithout  a  mouth- 
ful of  food,  they  took  especial  care  that  these  animals  should 
not  escape  them.  While  some  of  the  surest  marksmen  ad- 
vanced cautiously  with  their  rifles  into  the  roiigli  ground,  foia* 
of  the  best  mounted  horsemen  took  their  stations  in  tlie  plain, 
to  nm  the  bulls  down  should  they  only  be  maimed. 

The  buffalo  were  wounded  and  set  off  in  headlong  flight. 
The  half-famished  horses  were  too  weak  to  overtake  them  on 
the  frozen  ground,  but  succeeded  in  driving  them  on  the  ice, 
where  they  slipped  and  fell,  and  were  easily  dis])atched.  The 
hunters  loaded  themselves  with  beef  for  present  and  future 
suppl3^  and  then  returned  and  encamped  at  the  last  night's 
fire.  Here  they  passed  the  remainder  of  the  day,  cooking  and 
eating  with  a.  voracity  pro]>ortioned  to  previous  starvationi, 
forgetting  in  the  hearty  revel  of  the  moment  the  certain  dan- 
gers with  which  they  were  environed. 

The  cravings  of  hunger  being  satisfied,  they  now  began  to 
debate  about  their  furtlier  progress.  The  men  were  much  dis- 
heartened by  the  hardships  they  had  already  endm-ed.  Indee«l, 
two  who  had  been  in  the  rear  guard,  taking  advantage  of  their 
position,  had  deserted  and  returned  to  the  lodges  of  the  Nez 
Perces.  The  prospect  ahead  was  enough  to  stagger  the  stout- 
est heart.  They  were  in  the  dead  of  winter.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  the  wild  landscape  was  wrapped  in  snow,  wiiich 
was  evidently  deepening  as  they  advanced.  Over  this  they 
woifld  have  to  toil,  with  the  icy  wind  Ijlowing  in  their  fares: 
their  horses  might  give  out  through  want  of  ])asturage,  and 


102         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

they  themselves  must  expect  intervals  of  horrible  famine  hke 
that  they  had  already  experienced. 

With  Captain  Bonneville,  however,  perseverance  was  a  mat- 
ter of  pride ;  and,  having  undertaken  this  enterprise,  nothing 
could  turn  him  back  until  it  was  accomplished :  tiiough  he  de- 
clares that,  had  he  anticipated  the  difficidties  and  sufferings 
which  attended  it,  he  should  have  flinched  from  the  undertak- 
ing. 

Onward,  therefore,  the  little  band  urged  their  way,  keeping 
along  the  course  of  a  stream  called  John  Day's  Creek.  The 
cold  was  so  intense  that  they  had  frequently  to  dismount  and 
travel  on  foot,  lest  they  shoidd  freeze  in  their  saddles.  The 
days  which  at  this  season  are  short  enovigh  even  in  the  open 
prairies,  were  narrowed  to  a  few  hours  by  the  liigh  mountains, 
which  allowed  the  travellers  but  a  brief  enjoyment  of  the 
cheering  rays  of  the  sun.  The  snow  was  generally  at  least 
twenty  inches  in  depth,  and  in  many  places  much  more:  thone 
who  dismounted  had  to  beat  their  way  with  toilsome  steps. 
Eight  miles  were  considered  a  good  day's  journey.  The  horses 
■were  almost  famished;  for  the  herbage  was  covered  by  the 
deep  snow,  so  that  they  had  nothing  to  subsist  upon  but  scanty 
wisps  of  the  dry  buneii  grass  which  peered  above  the  surface, 
and  the  small  branches  and  twigs  of  frozen  willows  and  worm- 
wood. 

In  this  way  they  urged  their  slow  and  painful  course  to  the 
south  down  John  Day's  Creek,  until  it  lost  itself  in  a  swamp. 
Here  they  encamped  upon  the  ice  among  stiffened  willows, 
where  they  were  obliged  to  beat  down  and  clear  away  the 
snow  to  procure  pasturage  for  their  horses. 

Hence,  they  toiled  on  to  Godin  Eiver ;  so  called  after  an  Iro- 
quois hunter  in  the  service  of  Sublette,  who  w'as  murdered 
there  by  the  Blackfeet.  Many  of  the  features  of  this  remote 
wilderness  are  thus  named  after  scenes  of  violence  and  blood- 
shed that  occurred  to  the  early  pioneers.  It  was  an  act  of 
lilial  vengeance  on  the  part  of  Godin's  son  Antoine  that,  as  the 
reader  may  recollect,  brought  on  the  recent  battle  at  Pierre's 
Hole. 

From  Godin's  Eiver,  Captain  Bonneville  and  Ms  followers 
came  out  upon  the  plain  of  the  Three  Butes,  so  called  fi'om 
three  singular  and  isolated  hills  that  rise  from  the  midst.  It 
is  a  part  of  the  great  desert  of  Snake  River,  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable tracts  beyond  the  mountains.  Could  they  have  ex- 
perienced a  respite  from  their  sufferings  and  anxieties,  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         103 

immense  landscape  spread  out  before  them  was  calculated  to 
inspire  admiration.  Winter  has  its  beauties  and  gloi-ies  as 
well  as  summer;  and  Captain  Bonnovillo  had  the  soul  to  ap- 
preciate them. 

Far  away,  says  ho,  over  the  vast  plains,  and  up  the  steep 
sides  of  the  lofty  mountains,  the  snow  lay  spread  in  dazzling 
whiteness:  and  Avh(>never  the  sun  emerged  in  the  morning 
above  the  giant  peaks,  or  burst  forth  from  among  clouds  in  his 
mid-day  course,  mountain  and  dell,  glazed  rock  and  frosted 
tree,  glowed  and  sparkled  Avith  suri)assing  lustre.  The  tall 
pines  seemed  sprinkled  Avith  a  silver  dust,  and  the  willows, 
studded  with  minute  icicles  reflecting  the  prismatic  rays, 
brought  to  mind  the  fairy  trees  conjured  up  by  the  caliph's 
story-teller  to  adorn  his  vale  of  diamonds. 

The  poor  wanderers,  however,  nearly  starved  with  hunger 
and  cold,  were  in  no  mood  to  enjoy  the  glories  of  these  brilliant 
scenes ;  though  they  stamped  pictures  on  their  memory  which 
have  been  recalled  with  delight  in  more  genial  situations. 

Encamping  at  the  west  Bute,  they  found  a  place  swept  by 
the  winds,  so  that  it  was  bare  of  snow,  and  there  was  abun- 
dance of  bunch  grass.  Here  the  horses  were  turned  loose  to 
graze  thi-oughout  the  night.  Though  for  once  they  had  ample 
l^asturage,  yet  the  keen  winds  were  so  intense  that,  in  the 
morning,  a  mule  was  found  frozen  to  death.  The  trappei'S  gath- 
ered round  and  mourned  over  him  as  over  a  cherished  friend. 
Tlioy  feared  their  half-famished  hoi-ses  would  soon  share 
his  fate,  for  there  seemed  scarce  blood  enough  left  in  their 
Veins  to  withstand  the  freezing  cold.  To  beat  the  way  further  ' 
through  the  snow  with  these  enfeebled  animals  seemed  next  to 
impossible;  and  despondency  began  to  creep  over  their  hearts, 
when,  fortunately,  they  discovered  a  trail  made  by  some  hunt- 
ing party.  Into  this  they  immediately  entered,  and  proceeded 
with  less  difficulty.  Shortly  afterward,  a  fine  bulFalo  bull 
came  bounding  across  the  snow  and  Avas  instantly  brought 
down  by  the  hunters.  A  fire  was  soon  blazing  and  crackling, 
and  an  amjile  repast  soon  cooked,  and  sooner  dispatched ;  after 
which  they  made  some  further  progress  and  then  encamped. 
One  of  the  men  reached  the  camp  nearly  frozen  to  dcatli ;  but 
good  cheer  and  a  blazing  fire  gradually  restored  life,  and  put 
his  blood  in  circulation. 

Having  now  a  l)eaton  patii,  they  proceeded  the  next  morning 
with  more  facility;  indeed,  the  snow  decreased  in  depth  as 
they  receded  from  the  mountains,  and  the  temperature  became 


104         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

more  mild.  In  the  course  of  the  day  they  discovered  a  soli- 
tary horseman  hovering  at  a  distance  before  them  on  the 
plain.  They  spurred  on  to  overtake  him ;  but  he  was  better 
mounted  on  a  fresher  steed,  and  kept  at  a  wary  distance,  re- 
connoitring them  with  evident  distrust ;  for  the  wild  dress  of 
the  free  trappers,  their  leggins,  blankets,  and  cloth  caps  gar- 
nished with  fur  and  topped  off  with  feathers,  even  their  very 
elf-locks  and  weather-bronzed  complexions,  gave  them  the 
look  of  Indians  rather  than  white  men,  and  made  him  mistake 
them  for  a  war  party  of  some  hostile  tribe. 

After  much  manoeuvring,  the  wild  horseman  was  at  length 
brought  to  a  parley;  but  even  then  he  conducted  himself  with 
the  caution  of  a  knowing  prowler  of  the  prairies.  Dismount- 
ing from  his  horse,  and  using  him  as  a  breastwork,  he  levelled 
his  gun  across  his  back,  and,  thus  prepared  for  defence  like  a 
wary  cruiser  upon  the  high  seas,  he  permitted  himself  to  be 
approached  within  speaking  distance. 

He  proved  to  be  an  Indian  of  the  Banncck  tribe,  belonging 
to  a  band  at  no  great  distance.  It  was  some  time  before  he 
could  be  persuaded  that  he  was  conversing  with  a  party  of 
white  men,  and  induced  to  lay  aside  his  reserve  and  join  them. 
He  then  gave  them  the  interesting  intelligence  that  there  were 
two  companies  of  white  men  encamped  in  the  neighborhood. 
This  was  cheering  news  to  Captain  Bonneville ;  who  hoped  to 
find  in  one  of  them  the  long-sought  party  of  Matthieu.  Push- 
ing forward,  therefore,  with  renovated  spirits,  he  reached 
Snake  River  by  nightfall,  and  there  fixed  his  encampment. 

Early  the  next  morning  (13th  January,  1833),  dilige«it  search 
was  made  about  the  neighborhood  for  traces  of  the  reported 
parties  of  white  men.  An  encampment  was  soon  discovered 
about  four  miles  further  up  the  river,  in  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville to  his  great  joy  found  two  of  Matthieu's  men,  from  whom 
he  learned  that  the  rest  of  his  party  woidd  be  there  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days.  It  was  a  matter  of  great  pride  and  self- 
gratulation  to  Captain  Bonneville  that  he  had  thus  accom- 
plished his  dreary  and  doubtful  enterprise ;  and  he  determined 
to  pass  some  time  in  this  encampment,  both  to  await  the  return 
of  Matthieu,  and  to  give  needful  repose  to  men  and  horses. 

It  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  most  eligible  and  delightful  winter- 
ing grounds  in  that  whole  range  of  country.  The  Snake  River 
here  wound  its  devious  way  between  low  banks  through  the 
great  plain  of  the  Three  Butes ;  and  was  bordered  by  wide  and 
fertile  meadows.    It  was  studded  with  islands  which,  like  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTALY  BOXXEVFLLE.         105 

alluvial  bottoms,  were  covered  with  gi'ovcs  of  cotton-wood, 
thickets  of  willow,  tracts  of  good  lowland  grass,  and  abinidance 
of  green  rushes.  The  adjacent  plains  were  so  vant  in  extent 
that  no  single  band  of  Indians  could  drive  the  buffalo  out  of 
them;  nor  was  the  snow  of  sufficient  depth  to  give  any  sei-ious 
inconvenience.  Indec.1,  during  the  sojom-n  of  (Captain  Bonne- 
ville in  this  neighborhood,  which  was  in  the  heart  of  winter, 
he  found  the  weather,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  cold  and 
stormy  days,  generally  mild  and  pleasant,  freezing  a  little  at 
night  but  invariably  thawing  Avith  the  morning's  sun — resem- 
bling the  spring  weather  in  the  middle  parts  of  the  United 
States. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Three  Tetons,  those  great  landmarks 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  rising  in  the  east  and  circling  away  to 
the  north  and  Avest  of  the  great  plain  of  Snake  River,  and  the 
mountains  of  Salt  River  and  Portneuf  towai'd  the  south,  catch 
the  earliest  falls  of  snow.  Their  white  robes  lengthen  as  the 
winter  advances,  and  spread  themselves  far  into  the  plam, 
driving  the  buffalo  in  herds  to  the  banks  of  the  river  in  quest 
of  food ;  whore  they  are  easily  slain  in  great  numbers. 

Such  were  the  palpable  advantages  of  this  winter  encamp- 
ment; added  to  which,  it  was  secure  from  the  prowlings  and 
plunderings  of  any  petty  band  of  roving  Blackfcet,  the  diffi- 
culties of  retreat  rendering  it  unwise  for  those  crafty  depre- 
dators to  venture  an  attack  unless  with  an  overpowering 
force. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  encampment  lay  the  Banneck 
Indians;  numbering  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  lodges. 
They  are  brave  and  cunning  Avarriors  and  deadly  foes  of  the 
Blackfeet,  whom  they  easily  overcome  in  battles  Avliere  their 
forces  are  equal.  They  are  not  vengeful  and  enterprising  in 
warfare,  boAvever;  seldom  sending  Avar  parties  to  attack  the 
Blackfeet  tOAvns,  but  contenting  themselves  Avith  defending 
their  own  territories  and  house.  About  one  third  of  their  Avar- 
riors are  armed  Avith  fusees,  the  I'cst  Avith  bows  and  arrows. 

As  soon  as  the  spring  opens  they  move  doAvn  the  right  bank 
of  Snake  River  and  encamp  at  the  heads  of  the  Boisee  and 
Payette.  Here  their  horses  Avax  fat  on  good  pasturage,  Avhilo 
the  ti-ibe  rcA-els  in  plenty  upon  the  flesh  of  deer,  elk,  bear,  and 
beaver.  They  then  descend  a  little  further,  and  are  met  by  the 
LoAver  Nez  Ferces,  with  AA'hom  they  trade  for  Ixii'ses;  giving  in 
exchange  beaver,  buffalo,  and  buffalo  robes.  Hence  they  strike 
upon  the  tributary  streams  on  the  left  bank  of  Snake  River. 


106         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  encamp  at  the  lise  of  the  Portneuf  and  Blaclcfoot  streams, 
in  the  buffalo  range.  Their  horses,  although  of  the  Nez  Perce 
breed,  are  inferior  to  the  parent  stock  from  being  ridden  at  too 
early  an  age,  being  often  bought  when  but  two  years  old  and 
immediately  put  to  hard  work.  They  have  fewer  horses,  also, 
than  most  of  these  migratory  tribes. 

At  the  time  that  Captain  Bonneville  came  into  the  neigh- 
borhood of  these  Indians,  they  were  all  in  mourning  for  their 
chief,  surnamed  The  Horse.  This  chief  was  said  to  possess  a 
chai'med  hfe,  or  rather,  to  be  invulnerable  to  lead;  no  bullet 
having  ever  hit  him,  though  he  had  been  in  repeated  battles, 
and  often  shot  at  by  the  surest  mai^ksmen.  He  had  shown 
great  magnanimity  in  his  intercourse  with  the  white  men. 
One  of  the  great  men  of  liis  family  had  been  slain  in  an  attack 
upon  a  band  of  trappers  passing  through  the  territories  of  liis 
tribe.  Vengeance  had  been  sworn  by  the  Bannecks ;  but  The 
Horse  interfered,  declaring  himself  the  friend  of  white  men 
and,  having  great  influence  and  authority  among  his  people,  he 
compelled  them  to  forego  all  vindictive  plans  and  to  conduct 
themselves  amicably  whenever  they  came  in  contact  with  the 
traders. 

This  chief  had  bravely  fallen  in  resisting  an  attack  made  by 
the  Blackfeet  upon  his  tribe,  while  encamped  at  the  head  of 
Godin  River.  His  fall  in  nowise  lessened  the  faith  of  his  people 
in  his  charmed  life ;  for  they  declared  tliat  it  was  not  a  iDuIlet 
which  laid  him  low,  but  a  bit  of  horn  which  had  been  shot  into 
him  by  some  Blackfoot  marksman  aware,  no  doubt,  of  the  in- 
efficacy  of  lead.  Since  his  death  there  was  no  one  with  suffi- 
cient influence  over  the  tribe  to  restrain  the  wild  and  predatory 
propensities  of  the  young  men.  The  consequence  w^as  they  had 
become  troublesome  and  dangerous  neighbors,  openly  friendly 
for  the  sake  of  traffic,  but  disposed  to  commit  secret  depreda- 
tions and  to  molest  any  small  party  that  might  fall  within 
their  reach. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIX  BO^'NEVILLE.         107 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

MISADVENTURES  OF  MATTHIEU  AXD  HIS  PARTY—RETURN  TO  THE 
CACHES  AT  SALMON  RIVER — BATTLE  BETWEEN  NEZ  PERCES 
AND  BLACKFEET— HEROISM  OF  A  NEZ  PERCE  WOMAN— EN- 
ROLLED AMONG  THE   BRAVES. 

On  the  3d  of  February  Matthieii,  with  the  residue  of  his  band, 
arrived  in  camp.  He  had  a  disastrous  story  to  relate.  After 
parting  with  Captain  Bv:)nneville  in  Green  River  valley  he  had 
proceeded  to  the  westward,  keeping  to  the  north  of  the  Eutaw 
Mountains,  a  spur  of  the  great  Rocky  chain.  Hei-e  he  expori- 
enced  the  most  rugged  travelling  for  his  horses,  and  soon  dis- 
covered that  there  was  but  little  chance  of  meeting  the  Sho- 
shonie  bands.  He  now  proceeded  along  Bear  River,  a  stream 
much  frequented  by  trappers,  intending  to  shape  his  course  to 
Salmon  River  to  rejoin  Captain  Bonneville. 

He  was  misled,  however,  either  through  the  ignorance  or 
treachery  of  an  Indian  guide,  and  conducted  into  a  wild  valley 
where  he  lay  encamped  during  the  autumn  and  the  early  part 
of  the  winter,  nearly  buried  in  snow  and  almost  starved. 
Early  in  the  season  he  detached  five  men,  with  nine  horses,  to 
proceed  to  the  neighborhood  of  the  Sheep  Rock,  on  Bear 
River,  where  game  was  plenty,  and  there  to  procure  a  supply 
for  the  camp.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  on  their  expedition 
wlien  their  trail  was  discovered  by  a  party  of  nine  or  ten  In- 
dians, who  immediately  commenced  a  lurking  pursuit,  dogging 
them  secretly  for  five  or  six  daj's.  So  long  as  their  encamp- 
ments were  well  chosen  and  a  proper  watch  maintained  the 
wary  savages  kept  aloof ;  at  length,  observing  that  they  were 
badly  encamped,  in  a  situation  where  they  might  be  approached 
with  secrecy,  the  enemy  crept  stealthily  along  under  cover  of 
the  river  bank,  preparing  to  burst  suddenly  upon  their  prey. 

Tliey  had  not  advanced  within  striking  distance,  however, 
before  they  were  discovered  by  one  of  the  trappers.  He  im- 
mediately but  silently  gave  the  alarm  to  his  companions. 
They  all  sprang  upon  their  horses  and  prepared  to  reti-eat  to  a 
safe  position.  One  of  the  party,  however,  named  Jennings, 
doubted  the  correctness  of  the  alarm,  and  before  he  mounted 
his  horso  wanted  to  ascertain  the  fact.     His  companions  urered 


108         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

him  to  mount,  but  in  vain ;  he  was  incredulous  and  obstinate. 
A  volley  of  firearms  by  the  savages  dispelled  his  doubts,  but 
GO  overpo^vered  his  nerves  that  he  was  unable  to  get  into  his 
saddle.  His  comrades,  seeing  his  peril  and  confusion,  gener- 
ously leaped  from  their  horses  to  protect  him.  A  shot  from  a 
rifle  brought  him  to  the  earth;  in  his  agony  he  called  upon  the 
others  not  to  desert  him.  Two  of  them,  Le  Roy  and  Ross, 
after  fighting  desperately,  were  captured  by  the  savages ;  the 
remaining  two  vaulted  into  their  saddles  and  saved  themselves 
by  headlong  flight,  being  pursued  for  nearly  thirty  miles. 
They  got  safe  back  to  Matthieu's  camp,  where  their  story  in- 
spired such  dread  of  larking  Indians  that  the  hunters  could 
not  be  prevailed  upon  to  imdertake  another  foray  in  quest  of 
provisions.  They  remained,  therefore,  almost  starving  in 
their  camp ;  now  and  then  killing  an  old  or  disabled  horse  for 
food,  while  the  elk  and  the  mountain  sheep  roamed  unmo- 
lested among  the  surrounding  mountains. 

The  disastrous  surprisal  of  this  hunting  party  is  cited  by 
Captain  Bonneville  to  show  the  importance  of  vigilant  watch- 
ing and  judicious  encampments  in  the  Indian  country.  Most 
of  this  kind  of  disasters  to  traders  and  trappers  arise  from 
some  careless  inattention  to  the  state  of  their  arms  and  ammu- 
nition, the  placing  of  their  horses  at  night,  the  position  ol  their 
camping  ground,  and  the  posting  of  their  night  watches.  The 
Indian  is  a  vigilant  and  crafty  foe,  by  no  means  given  to  hair- 
brained  assaults;  he  seldom  attacks  when  he  finds  his  foe  well 
prepared  and  on  the  alert.  Caution  is  at  least  as  efficacious  a 
protection  against  him  as  courage. 

The  Indians  who  made  this  attack  were  at  first  supposed  to 
be  Blackfeet;  until  Captain  Bonneville  found  subsequently,  in 
the  camp  of  the  Bannecks,  a  horse,  saddle,  and  bridle,  which 
he  recognized  as  having  belonged  to  one  of  the  hunters.  The 
Bannecks,  however,  stoutly  denied  having  taken  these  spoils 
in  fight,  and  persisted  in  aflirming  that  the  outrage  had  been 
perpetrated  by  a  Blackfoot  band. 

Captain  Bonneville  remained  on  Snake  River  nearly  three 
weeks  after  the  arrival  of  Matthieu  and  his  party.  At  length 
his  horses  having  recovered  stren.gth  sufficient  for  a  journey, 
he  prepared  to  return  to  the  Nez  Perces,  or  rather  to  visit  his 
caches  on  Salmon  River;  that  he  might  take  thence  goods  and 
equipments  for  the  opening  season.  Accoi'dingly,  leaving  six- 
teen men  at  Snake  River,  he  set  out  on  the  19th  of  February 
with  sixteen  others  on  his  journey  to  the  caches. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         109 

Fording  the  rivor,  he  proceeded  to  the  borders  of  the  deep 
pnow,  when  he  encamped  under  tlie  lee  of  immenKc  piles  of 
Inirned  rock.  On  the  2Jst  ho  was  again  lloundering  through 
the  snow,  on  the  great  Snake  River  plain,  where  it  lay  to  the 
depth  of  thirty  inches.  It  was  suflBciently  incrusted  to  bear  a 
pedestrian,  but  the  poor  horses  broke  through  the  crust,  and 
plunged  and  strained  at  every  step.  So  lacerated  were  they 
by  the  ice  that  it  was  necessary  to  change  the  front  every 
hundred  j^ards,  and  put  a  different  one  in  advance  to  break 
the  way.  The  open  prairies  were  swept  by  a  piercing  and 
biting  wind  from  the  northwest.  At  night,  thej^  had  to  task 
their  ingenuity  to  provide  shelter  and  keep  from  freezing.  In 
the  first  place,  they  dug  deep  holes  in  the  snow,  piling  it  up  in 
ramparts  to  windward  as  a  protection  against  the  blast.  Be- 
neath these  they  spread  buffalo  skins,  upon  which  they 
stretched  themselves  in  full  dress,  with  caps,  cloaks,  and  moc- 
casins, and  covered  themselves  with  numerous  blankets:  not- 
withstanding all  wliich  they  were  often  severely  pinched  with 
the  cold. 

On  the  2Sth  of  February  they  arrived  on  the  banks  of  Godin 
River.  This  stream  emerges  from  the  mountains  opposite  an 
eastern  branch  of  the  ]\Ialade  River,  running  southeast,  forms 
a  deep  and  swift  cuiTcnt  about  twenty  yards  Avide,  passing 
rapidly  through  a  defile  to  which  it  gives  its  name,  and  then 
enters  the  great  plain  where,  after  meandering  about  forty 
miles,  it  is  finalh"  lost  in  the  region  of  the  Burned  Rocks. 

On  the  banks  of  this  river  Captain  Bonneville  was  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  come  upon  a  buffalo  trail.  Following  it  up,  he  en- 
tered the  defile,  where  he  remained  encamped  for  two  days  to 
allow  the  hunters  time  to  kill  and  dry  a  supply  of  buffalo  beef. 
In  this  sheltered  defile  the  weather  was  moderate  and  grass 
was  already  sprouting  more  than  an  inch  in  height.  There 
was  abundance,  too,  of  the  salt  weed  wdiich  grows  most  plen- 
tiful in  clayey  and  gravelly  barrens.  It  resembles  pennyroyal, 
and  derives  its  name  from  a  partial  saltness.  It  is  a  nourish- 
ing food  for  the  horses  in  the  winter,  but  they  reject  it  the 
moment  the  young  gi'ass  affords  sufficient  pasturage. 

On  the  Gth  of  March,  having  cured  sufficient  meat,  the  pai'ty 
resumed  their  march,  and  moved  on  with  comparative  ease, 
excepting  where  they  had  to  make  their  way  through  snow- 
drifts which  had  been  piled  up  by  the  wind. 

On  the  11th,  a  small  clcnid  of  smoke  was  observed  rising  in  a 
deep  part  of  the  defile.     An  encampment  was  instantly  formed 


110         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  scouts  were  sent  out  to  reconnoitre.  They  returned  with 
intelligence  that  it  was  a  hunting  party  of  Flatheads,  return- 
ing from  the  buffalo  range  laden  with  meat.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville joined  them  the  next  day,  and  persuaded  thenx  to  pro- 
ceed with  his  party  a  few  miles  below  to  the  caches,  whither 
ho  proposed  also  to  invite  the  Nez  Perces,  whom  he  hoped  to 
find  somewhere  in  this  neigi  borhood.  In  fact,  on  the  13th,  he 
was  rejoined  by  that  friendly  tribe  who,  since  he  separated 
from  them  on  Salmon  River,  had  likewise  been  out  to  hunt 
the  buffalo,  but  had  continued  to  be  haunted  and  harassed  by 
their  old  enemies  the  Blackfeet,  who,  as  usual,  had  contrived 
to  carry  off  many  of  their  horses. 

In  the  course  of  this  hunting  expedition,  a  small  band  of  ten 
lodges  separated  from  the  main  body  in  search  of  better  pas- 
turage for  their  horses.  About  the  1st  of  March,  the  scattered 
parties  of  Blackfoot  banditti  united  to  the  number  of  three 
hundred  fighting  men,  and  determined  upon  some  signal  blow. 
Proceeding  to  the  former  camping  ground  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
they  found  the  lodges  deserted ;  upon  which  they  hid  them- 
selves among  the  willows  and  thickets,  watching  for  some 
straggler  wiio  might  guide  them  to  the  present  "  whereabout" 
of  their  intended  victims.  As  fortune  would  have  it  Kosato, 
the  Blackfoot  renegade,  was  the  first  to  pass  along,  accom- 
panied by  his  blood-bought  bride.  He  w^as  on  his  way  from 
the  main  body  of  hunters  to  the  Httle  band  of  ten  lodges.  The 
Blackfeet  knew  and  marked  hmi  as  he  passed ;  he  was  within 
bowshot  of  their  ambuscade ;  yet,  much  as  they  thirsted  for 
his  blood,  they  forbore  to  launch  a  shaft;  sparing  him  for  the 
moment  that  he  might  lead  them  to  their  prey.  Secretly  fol- 
lowing liis  trail,  they  discovered  the  lodges  of  the  unfortunate 
Nez  Perces,  and  assailed  them  with  shouts  and  yellings.  The 
Nez  Perces  numbered  only  twenty  men,  and  but  nine  were 
armed  with  fusees.  They  showed  themselves,  however,  as 
brave  and  skilful  in  Avar  as  they  had  been  mild  and  long-suf- 
fering in  peace.  Their  first  care  was  to  dig  holes  inside  of 
their  lodges ;  thus  ensconced  they  fought  desperately,  laying 
several  of  the  enemy  dead  upon  the  ground;  while  they, 
though  some  of  them  were  wounded,  lost  not  a  single  warrior. 

During  the  heat  of  the  battle,  a  woman  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
seeing  her  warrior  badly  wounded  and  unable  to  fight,  seized 
his  bow  and  arrows,  and  bravely  and  successfully  defended  his 
person,  contributiiig  to  the  safety  of  the  whole  party. 

In  another  part  of  the  field  of  action,  a  Nez  Perce  had 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         \\\ 

crouched  behind  the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree,  and  Icept  up  a  gall- 
ing fire  from  his  covert.  A  Blackfoot  seeing  this,  prociu-ed  a 
round  log,  and  placing  it  before  him  as  he  lay  prostrate,  I'oUed 
it  forward  toward  the  trunk  of  the  tree  behind  which  his  enemy- 
lay  crouched.  It  was  a  moment  of  breathless  interest ;  who- 
ever first  showed  himself  would  be  in  danger  of  a  shot.  The 
Nez  Perce  put  an  end  to  the  suspense.  The  moment  the  logs 
touched  he  sprang  upon  his  feet  and  discharged  the  contents 
of  liis  fusee  into  the  back  of  his  antagonist.  By  this  time  the 
Blackfeet  had  got  possession  of  the  horses,  several  of  their  war- 
riors lay  dead  on  the  field,  and  the  Nez  Perces,  ensconced  in 
tlieir  lodges,  seemed  resolved  to  defend  themselves  to  the  last 
gasp.  It  so  happened  that  the  chief  of  the  Blackfeet  party  was 
a  renegade  from  the  Nez  Perces;  unlike  Kosato,  however,  he 
had  no  viiidictiv^e  rage  against  his  native  tribe,  but  was  rather 
disposed,  now  he  had  got  the  booty,  to  spare  all  imnecessary 
effusion  of  blood.  He  held  a  long  parley,  therefore,  with  the 
l)esieged,  and  finally  drew  ofi^  his  warriors,  taking  with  him 
seventy  horses.  It  appeared,  afterward,  that  the  bullets  of  the 
Blackfeet  had  been  entirely  expended  in  the  course  of  the  bat- 
tle, so  that  they  were  obliged  to  make  use  of  stones  as  substi- 
tute. 

At  the  outset  of  the  fight  Kosato,  the  renegade,  fought  with 
fury  rather  than  valor,  animating  the  others  by  word  as  well 
as  deed.  A  wound  in  the  head  from  a  rifle  ball  laid  him  sense- 
less on  the  earth.  There  his  body  remained  when  the  battle 
was  over,  and  the  victors  were  leading  off  the  horses.  His  wife 
hung  over  him  with  frantic  lamentations.  The  conquerors 
paused  and  urged  her  to  leave  the  lifeless  renegade,  and  return 
with  them  to  her  kindred.  She  refused  to  listen  to  their  solici- 
tations, and  they  ]\assed  on.  As  she  sat  watching  the  features 
of  Kosato,  and  giving  Avay  to  passionate  grief,  she  thought  she 
perceived  him  to  breathe.  She  was  not  mistaken.  The  ball, 
which  had  been  nearly  spent  before  it  struck  him,  had  stunned 
instead  of  killing  him.  By  the  ministry  of  his  faithful  Avife  he 
gradually  recovered,  reviving  to  a  redoubled  love  for  her,  and 
hatred  of  his  tribe. 

As  to  the  female  Avho  had  so  bravely  defended  her  husband, 
she  was  elevated  by  the  tribe  to  a  rank  far  above  her  sex,  and 
beside  other  honoi'able  distinctions,  was  thenceforAvard  per- 
mitted to  take  a  part  iu  the  war  dances  of  the  braves  1 


112         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

OPENING  OF  THE  CACHES— DETACHMENTS  OF  CERRE  AND  HODGN 
KISS— SALMON  RIVER  MOUNTAINS — SUPERSTITION  OF  AN  INDIAN 
TRAPPER — GODIN's  RIVER — PREPARATIONS  FOR  TRAPPING — AN 
ALARM — AN  INTERRUPTION— A  RIVAL  BAND— PHENOMENA  OP 
SNAKE  RIVER  PLAIN — VAST  CLEFTS  AND  CHASMS — INGULFED 
STREAMS — SUBLIME  SCENERY— A   GRAND    BUFFALO   HUNT, 

Captain  Bonneville  found  his  caches  perfectly  secure,  and 
having  escretly  opened  them  he  selected  such  articles  as  were 
necessary  to  equip  the  free  trappers  and  to  supply  the  incon- 
siderable trade  with  the  Indians,  after  which  he  closed  them 
again.  The  free  trappers,  being  newly  rigged  out  and  supplied, 
were  in  high  spirits,  and  swaggered  gayly  about  the  camp.  To 
compensate  all  hands  for  past  sufferings,  and  to  give  a  cheer- 
ful spur  to  further  operations,  Captain  Bonneville  now  gave 
the  men  what,  in  frontier  phrase,  is  termed  "  a  regular  blow 
out."  It  was  a  day  of  uncouth  gambols  and  fi-olics  and  rude 
feasting.  The  Indians  joined  in  the  sports  and  games,  and  all 
was  mirth  and  good-fellowship. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  March,  and  Captain  BonneviUe 
made  preparations  to  open  the  spring  campaign.  He  had 
pitched  upon  Malade  River  for  his  main  trapping  ground  for 
the  season.  This  is  a  stream  which  rises  among  the  gi'eat  bed 
of  mountains  north  of  the  Lava  Plain,  and  after  a  winding 
course  falls  into  Snake  River.  Previous  to  his  departure  the 
captain  dispatched  Mr.  Cerre,  with  a  few  men,  to  visit  the 
Indian  vUlages  and  purchase  horses;  he  furnished  his  clerk, 
Mr.  Hodgkiss,  also,  with  a  small  stock  of  goods,  to  keep  up  a 
trade  with  the  Indians  during  the  spring,  for  such  jDeltries  as 
they  might  collect,  appointing  the  caches  on  Salmon  River  as 
the  point  of  rendezvous,  where  they  were  to  rejoin  him  on  the 
15th  of  June  following. 

This  done  he  set  out  for  Malade  River,  with  a  band  of  twenty- 
eight  men  composed  of  hired  and  free  trappers  and  Indian 
hunters,  together  with  eight  squaws.  Their  route  lay  up  along 
the  right  fork  of  Salmon  River,  as  it  passes  through  the  deep 
defile  of  the  mountains.  They  travelled  very  slowly,  not  above 
five  nailcs  a  day,  for  many  of  the  horses  were  so  weak  that  they 


ADVENTURES  Oh'  VAPTAIN  BOi\AJ(:VJJJJi;.         ni-i 

faltered  and  staggered  as  they  walked.  Pasturage,  howe%'er, 
"vvas  now  growing  plentiiul.  There  was  abiuulance  of  fresh 
grass,  which  in  some  places  had  attained  such  height  as  to 
wave  in  the  wind.  The  native  flocks  of  the  wilderness,  the 
mountain  sheep,  as  they  arc  called  by  the  trappers,  were  con- 
tinually to  be  seen  upon  the  hills  between  which  they  passed, 
and  a  good  supply  of  mutton  was  provided  by  the  hunters,  as 
they  were  advancing  toward  a  region  of  scarcity. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey  Captain  Bonneville  bad  occasion 
to  remark  an  instance  of  the  many  notions,  and  almost  super- 
stitions, which  prevail  among  the  Indians,  and  among  some  of 
the  white  men,  with  respect  to  the  sagacitj*  of  the  beaver. 
The  Indian  hunters  of  his  party  were  in  the  habit  of  exploring 
all  the  streams  along  which  they  passed,  in  search  of  "beaver 
lodges,"  and  occasionally  set  their  traps  with  some  success. 
One  of  them,  however,  though  an  experienced  and  skilfid  trap- 
per, was  invariably  unsuccessful.  Astonished  and  mortified  at 
such  unusual  bad  luck,  he  at  length  conceived  the  idea  that 
there  Avas  some  odor  about  his  person  of  which  the  beaver  got 
scent  and  retreated  at  liis  approach.  He  immediately  set  about 
a  thorough  purification.  Making  a  rude  sweating-house  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  he  Avoujd  shut  hunself  up  untd  in  a  reeking 
perspiration,  and  then  suddenly  emerging,  would  plunge  into 
the  river.  A  number  of  these  sweatings  and  plungings  ha\-ing, 
as  he  supposed,  rendered  his  person  perfectly  "inodorous,"  he 
resumed  his  trapping  with  renovated  hope. 

About  the  beginning  of  Ai)ril  they  encamped  upon  Godin's 
River,  where  they  found  the  swamp  full  of  "  musk-rat  houses." 
Here,  therefore.  Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  remain  a 
few  daj's  and  make  his  first  regular  attemi^t  at  trapping.  That 
his  maiden  campaign  might  open  with  spirit,  he  promised  the 
Indians  and  free  trappers  an  extra  price  for  every  musk-rat 
they  should  take.  All  now  set  to  woik  for  the  next  day's  sport. 
The  utmost  animation  and  gayety  prevailed  throughout  the 
camp.  Evcrjthing  looked  auspicious  for  their  spring  campaign. 
The  abundance  of  musk-rats  in  the  swamp  was  but  an  earnest 
of  the  nobler  game  they  were  to  fmd  when  they  should  reach 
the  ]\Ialade  Eiver,  and  have  a  capital  beaver  country  all  to 
themselves,  where  they  might  trap  at  their  leisure  without 
molestation. 

In  the  midst  of  their  gayety  a  hunter  came  galloping  into 
the  camp,  shouting,  or  rather  yelling,  "A  trail!  a  trails-- ' 
lodge  poles !  lodge  poles  1" 


114         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

These  were  words  full  of  meaning  to  a  trapper's  ear.  They 
intimated  that  there  was  some  band  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
probably  a  hunting  party,  as  they  had  lodge  poles  for  an  en- 
campment. The  hunter  came  up  and  told  his  story.  He  had 
discovered  a  fresh  trail,  in  which  the  traces  made  by  the  drag- 
ging of  lodge  poles  were  distinctly  visible.  The  buffalo,  too, 
had  just  been  driven  out  of  the  neighborhood,  which  showed 
that  the  hunters  had  already  been  on  the  range. 

The  gayety  of  the  camp  was  at  an  end;  all  preparations  for 
musk-rat  trapping  were  suspended,  and  all  hands  sallied  forth 
to  examine  the  trail.  Their  worst  fears  were  soon  confirmed. 
Infallible  signs  showed  the  unknown  party  in  the  advance  to  be 
white  men ;  doubtless,  some  rival  band  of  trappers !  Here  was 
competition  when  least  expected;  and  that  too  by  a  party 
already  in  the  advance,  who  were  driving  the  game  before 
them.  Captain  Bonneville  had  now  a  taste  of  the  sudden  tran- 
sitions to  which  a  trapper's  hfe  is  subject.  The  buoyant  confi- 
dence in  an  uninterrupted  hunt  was  at  an  end ;  every  counte- 
nance lowered  with  gloom  and  disappointment. 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  dispatched  two  spies  to  over- 
take the  rival  party,  and  endeavor  to  learn  their  plans;  in  the 
meantime,  he  turned  his  back  upon  the  swamp  and  its  musk- 
rat  houses  and  followed  on  at ' '  long  camps, "  which  in  trapper's 
language  is  equivalent  to  long  stages.  On  the  6th  of  April  he 
met  his  spies  returning.  They  had  kept  on  the  trail  like  hounds 
until  they  overtook  the  party  at  the  south  end  of  Godin's  defile. 
Here  they  found  them  comfortably  encamped:  twenty-two 
prime  trappers,  aU  well  appointed,  with  excellent  horses  in 
capital  condition  led  by  J^Iilton  Sublette,  and  an  able  coadjutor 
named  Jarvie,  and  in  full  march  for  the  ]\Ialade  hunting  ground. 
This  was  stunning  news.  The  Malade  River  was  the  only  trap- 
ping ground  within  reach ;  but  to  have  to  compete  there  with 
veteran  trappers,  perfectly  at  home  among  the  mountains,  and 
admirably  moimted,  while  they  were  so  poorly  provided  with 
horses  and  trappers,  and  had  but  one  man  in  their  party  ac- 
quainted with  the  country — it  was  out  of  the  question. 

The  only  hope  that  now  remained  was  that  the  snoAv,  which 
still  lay  deep  among  the  moimtains  of  Godin  River  and  blocked 
up  the  usual  pass  to  the  Malade  country,  might  detain  the  other 
party  until  Captain  Bonneville's  horses  should  get  once  more 
into  good  condition  in  their  present  ample  pasturage. 

The  rival  pai'ties  now  encamped  together,  not  out  of  com- 
panionship, but  to  keep  an  eye  upon  each  other.     Day  after 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         HH 

day  passed  by  without  any  possibility  of  getting  to  the  Malado 
country.  Sublette  and  Jarvie  endeavored  to  force  their  woy 
across  the  mountain ;  but  the  snows  lay  so  deep  as  to  obhgo 
them  to  turn  b'-ck.  In  the  meantime  the  captain's  hors-es  were 
daily  gaining  strength,  and  their  hoofs  imi)roving,  which  had 
been  worn  and  battered  by  moimtain  sei'vice.  The  captain, 
also,  was  increasing  his  stock  of  provisions;  so  that  the  delay 
was  all  in  his  favor. 

To  any  one  who  merely  contemplates  a  map  of  the  country 
this  difficulty  of  getting  from  Godin  to  Malade  Eiver  \\dll  ap- 
pear inexplicable,  as  the  intervening  mountains  terminate  in 
the  great  Snaice  Eiver  plain,  so  that,  ajiparently,  it  would  be 
perfectly  easy  to  proceed  round  their  bases. 

Hero,  however,  occur  some  of  the  striking  phenomena  of 
this  wild  and  sublime  region.  The  great  loAver  plain  which  ex- 
tends to  the  feet  of  these  mountains  is  broken  uj)  near  their 
bases  into  crests,  and  ridges  resembhng  the  surges  of  the  ocean 
breaking  on  a  rocky  shore. 

In  a  line  with  the  mountains  the  plain  is  gashed  with  numer- 
ous and  dangerous  chasms,  from  four  to  ten  feet  wide,  and  of 
great  depth.  Captain  Bonneville  attempted  to  sound  some  of 
these  openings,  but  without  any  satisfactory  result.  A  stone 
dropped  into  one  of  them  reverberated  against  the  sides  for 
apparently  a  very  great  depth,  and,  by  its  sound,  indicated  the 
same  kind  of  substance  with  the  surface,  as  long  as  the  strokes 
could  be  heard.  The  horse,  instinctively  sagacious  in  avoiding 
danger,  shrinks  back  in  alarm  from  the  least  of  these  chasms, 
pricking  up  his  ears,  snorting  and  pawing,  until  permitted  to 
turn  away. 

We  have  been  told  by  a  person  well  acquainted  with  the 
country  tliat  it  is  sometimes  necessarj'  to  travel  fifty  and  sixty 
miles  to  get  round  one  of  these  tremendous  ravines.  Con.^ider- 
able  streams,  like  that  of  Godin's  River,  that  run  with  a  bold, 
free  current,  lose  themselves  in  this  plain ;  some  of  them  end 
in  swamps,  others  suddenly  disappear,  finding,  no  doubt,  sub- 
terranean outlets. 

Opposite  to  these  chasms  Snake  River  makes  two  desperate 
leaps  over  precipices,  at  a  short  distance  from  each  other;  one 
twent}',  the  other  foi-ty  feet  in  height. 

The  volcanic  plain  in  question  forms  an  area  of  aboiit  sixty 
miles  in  diameter,  where  nothing  meets  the  eye  but  a  desolate 
and  awful  waste ;  where  no  grass  gi'ows  nor  water  runs,  and 
where  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  lava.     Ranges  of  mountains 


116         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE 

skirt  this  plain,  and,  in  Captain  Bonneville's  opinion,  were 
formei'ly  connected,  until  rent  asunder  by  some  convidsion  of 
nature.  Far  to  the  east  the  Three  Tetons  lift  their  heads  sub- 
limely, and  dominate  this  wide  sea  of  lava— one  oi  the  most 
striking  features  of  a  wDderness  where  everything  seems  on  a 
scale  of  stern  and  simijle  grandeur. 

We  look  forward  with  impatience  for  some  able  geologist  to 
explore  this  sublime  but  almost  unknown  region. 

It  was  not  until  the  25th  of  April  that  the  two  parties  of 
trappers  broke  up  their  encampments,  and  undertook  to  cross 
over  the  southwest  end  of  the  mountain  by  a  pass  explored  by 
their  scouts.  From  various  points  of  the  mountain  they  com- 
manded boundless  prospects  of  the  lava  plain,  stretching  away 
in  cold  and  gloomy  barrenness  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
On  the  evening  of  the  2tJth  they  reached  the  plain  west  of  the 
mountain,  watered  by  the  Malade,  the  Bcisee,  and  other 
streams,  which  comprised  the  contemplated  trapping-ground. 

The  country  about  the  Boisee  (or  Woody)  River  is  extolled 
by  Captain  Bonneville  as  the  most  enchanting  he  had  seen  in 
the  Far  West,  presenting  the  mingled  grandeur  and  beauty  of 
mountain  and  plain,  of  bright  rinming  streams  and  vast  grassy 
meadows  waving  to  the  breeze. 

We  shall  not  follow  the  captain  throughout  his  trapping 
campaign,  which  lasted  until  the  beginning  of  June,  nor  detail 
all  the  manoeuvres  of  the  rival  trapping  parties  and  their  vari- 
ous schemes  to  outwit  and  out-trap  each  other.  Suffice  it  to 
say  that,  after  having  visited  and  camped  about  various 
streams  with  various  success,  Captain  Bonneville  set  forward 
early  in  June  for  the  appointed  rendezvous  at  the  caches.  On 
the  way,  he  treated  his  party  to  a  grand  buffalo  hunt.  The 
scouts  had  reported  numerous  herds  in  a  plain  beyond  an  in- 
tervening height.  There  was  an  immediate  halt;  the  fleetest 
horses  were  forthwith  mounted  and  the  party  advanced  to  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  Plence  they  beheld  the  great  plain  below 
absolutely  swarming  with  buffalo.  Captain  Bonneville  now 
appointed  the  place  Avhere  he  would  encamp;  and  toward 
which  the  hunters  were  to  drive  the  game.  He  cautioned  the 
latter  to  advance  slowly,  reserving  the  strength  and  speed  of 
the  horses  until  within  a  moderate  distance  of  the  herds. 
Twenty-two  horsemen  descended  cautiously  into  the  plain, 
conformably  to  these  directions.  "  It  wgs  a  beautiful  sight," 
says  the  captain,  "to  see  the  runners,  as  they  are  callod,  ad- 
vancing in  column,  at  a  slow  trot,  until  within  two  hundred 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         117 

and  fifty  yards  of  the  outskirts  of  the  herd,  then  dashing:  on  at 
full  speed  until  lost  in  the  immense  multitude  oi  huffaloes 
scouring:  the  \)\a\n  in  every  direction."  All  was  now  tumult 
and  wild  confusion.  In  the  meantime  Captain  Bonneville  and 
the  residue  of  the  party  moved  on  to  the  appointed  camping 
ground;  thither  the  most  expert  runners  succeeded  in  driving 
numbers  of  buffalo,  which  were  killed  hard  by  the  camp,  and 
the  flesh  transported  thither  without  difficulty.  In  a  little 
while  the!  whole  camp  looked  like  one  great  slaughter-house; 
the  carcasses  were  skilfully  cut  up,  great  fires  were  made, 
scaffolds  erected  for  drying  and  jerking  beef,  and  an  ample 
provision  was  made  for  future  subsistence.  On  the  15th  of 
June,  the  precise  day  appointed  for  the  rendezvous.  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  party  arrived  safely  at  the  caches. 

Here  he  was  joined  by  the  other  detachments  of  his  main 
party,  all  in  good  health  and  spirits.  The  caches  were  again 
opened,  supplies  of  various  kinds  taken  out,  and  a  hberal 
allowance  of  aqua  vitoe  distributed  throughout  the  camp,  to 
celebrate  with  proper  conviviality  this  mei'ry  meeting. 


CHAPTER  XVni. 

MEETING  WITH  HODGKISS— MISFORTUNES  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCEf3— 
SCHEMES  OF  KOSATO,  THE  RENEGADO— HIS  FORAY  INTO  THE 
HORSE  PRAIRIE— INVASION  OF  BLACKFEET— BLUE  JOHN  AND 
HIS  FORLORN  HOPE — THEIR  GENEROUS  ENTERPRISE— THEIR  FATE 
— CONSTERNATION  AND  DESPAIR  OF  THE  VILLAGE— SOLEMN 
OBSEQUIES— ATTEMPT  AT  INDIAN  TRADE— HUDSON'S  BAY  COM- 
PANY'S MONOPOLY— ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  AUTUMN — BREAKING 
UP  OF  AN  ENCAMPMENT. 

Having  now  a  pretty  strong  party,  well  armed  and  equipped, 
Captain  Bonneville  no  longer  felt  the  necessity  of  fortifying 
himself  in  the  secret  places  and  fastnesses  of  the  mountains; 
but  sallied  forth  boldly  into  the  Snal^e  River  plain,  in  search 
of  his  clerk,  Hodgkiss,  Avho  had  remained  -with  the  Xt^z  Pei'ces. 
He  found  him  on  the  24th  of  June,  and  learned  from  him  an- 
otlier  chapter  of  misfortunes  which  had  recently  befallen  that 
ill-fated  race. 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  !March,  Kosato. 


lis         ADVENTURKS   OF  CAI'TAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  renegade  Blackfoot,  had  recovered  from  the  wound  re- 
ceived in  battle ;  and  with  his  strength  revived  all  his  deadly- 
hostility  to  his  native  tribe.  He  now  resinned  his  efforts  to 
stir  lip  the  Nez  Perces  to  reprisals  upon  their  old  enemies ;  re- 
minding them  incessantly  of  all  the  outrages  and  robberies 
they  had  recently  experienced,  and  assuring  them  that  such 
would  continue  to  be  their  lot  until  they  proved  themselves 
men  by  some  signal  retaliation. 

The  impassioned  eloquence  of  the  desperado  at  length  pro- 
duced an  effect ;  and  a  band  of  braves  enlisted  under  his  guid- 
ance, to  penetrate  into  the  Blackfoot  country,  harass  theii-  vil- 
lages, cax-ry  off  their  horses,  and  commit  all  kinds  of  depreda- 
tions. 

Kosato  pushed  forward  on  his  foray  as  far  as  the  Horse 
Prairie,  where  he  came  upon  a  strong  party  of  Blackfeet. 
Without  waiting  to  estimate  their  force,  he  attacked  them 
with  characteristic  fury,  and  was  bravely  seconded  by  his 
followers.  The  contest,  for  a  time,  was  hot  and  bloody;  at 
length,  as  is  customary  with  these  two  tribes,  they  paused,  and 
held  a  long  parley,  or  rather  a  war  of  words. 

"What  need,"  said  the  Blackfoot  chief,  tauntingly,  "have 
the  Nez  Perces  to  leave  their  homes,  and  sally  forth  on  war 
parties,  when  they  have  danger  enough  at  their  own  doors?  If 
you  want  fighting,  return  to  your  villages;  you  will  have 
plenty  of  it  there.  The  Blackfeet  warriors  have  hitherto  made 
war  upon  you  as  children.  They  are  now  coming  as  men.  A 
great  force  is  at  hand ;  they  are  on  their  way  to  your  towns, 
and  are  determined  to  rub  out  the  very  name  of  the  Nez 
Perces  from  the  mountains.  Return,  I  say,  to  your  towns, 
and  fight  there,  if  you  wish  to  live  any  longer  as  a  people. " 

Kosato  took  him  at  his  word ;  for  he  knew  the  character  of 
his  native  tribe.  Hastening  back  with  his  biind  to  the  Nez 
Perces  village,  he  told  all  that  he  had  seen  and  heard,  and 
urged  the  most  prompt  and  strenuous  measures  for  defence. 
The  Nez  Perces,  however,  heard  him  with  their  accustomed 
phlegm;  the  threat  of  the  Blackfeet  had  been  often  made,  and 
as  often  had  proved  a  mere  bravado ;  such  they  pronounced  it 
to  be  at  present,  and,  of  course,  took  no  precautions. 

They  were  soon  convinced  that  it  was  no  empty  menace.  In 
a  few  days  a  Tbf.ncl  cf  three  hundred  Blackfeet  warriors  ap- 
peared upon  the  hills.  Ail  now  was  consternation  in  the 
village.  Tlie  force  of  the  Nez  Perces  was  too  small  to  coi^e  with 
the  enemy  in  open  fight ;  manj'  of  the  young  men  having;  gone 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         119 

to  their  relatives  on  the  Cohmibia  to  procure  horses.  The  sages 
met  in  hurried  council.  What  was  to  be  done  to  ward  off  a 
blow  which  threatened  annihilation?  In  this  moment  of  im- 
minent peril,  a  Pierccd-nose  chief,  named  Blue  John  by  tho 
whites,  offered  to  approach  seci'c;tly  with  a  small,  but  chosen 
band,  through  a  defile  which  led  to  the  encampment  of  the 
enemy,  and,  by  a  sudden  onset,  to  drive  off  the  horses.  Should 
this  blow  be  successful,  the  spirit  and  strength  of  the  invaders 
would  be  broken,  and  the  Nez  Perces,  having  horses,  would  be 
more  than  a  match  for  them.  Should  it  fail,  the  village  would 
not  be  Avorse  off  than  at  present,  when  destiuction  appeared 
inevitable. 

Twenty-nine  of  the  choicest  Tvarriors  instantly  volunteered 
to  follow  Blue  John  m  this  hazardous  enterprise.  They  pre- 
pared for  it  with  the  solemnity  and  devotion  peculiar  to  the 
tribe.  Blue  John  consulted  his  medicine,  or  talismanic  charm, 
such  as  every  chief  keeps  in  his  lodge  as  a  supernatural  pro- 
tection. The  oracle  assured  him  that  his  enterprise  Avould  bo 
completely  successful,  provided  no  rain  shoidd  fall  before  he 
had  passed  through  the  defile;  but  should  it  rain,  his  band 
would  be  utterly  cut  off. 

The  day  was  clear  and  bright;  and  Blue  John  anticipated 
that  the  skies  wovdd  be  propitious.  He  departed  in  high 
spirits  with  his  forlorn  hope;  juid  never  did  band  of  braves 
make  a  more  gallant  display — horsemen  and  horses  being  dec- 
orated and  equipped  in  the  fiercest  and  most  glaring  style — 
glittering  with  arms  and  ornaments,  and  fluttering  with 
feathers. 

The  weather  continued  serene  until  they  reached  the  defile ; 
but  just  as  they  were  entering  it  a  black  cloud  rose  over  the 
mountain  crest,  and  there  was  a  sudden  shower.  The  warriors 
turned  to  their  leader,  as  if  to  read  his  opinion  of  this  unlucky 
omen;  but  the  countenance  of  Blue  John  remained  unchanged, 
and  they  continued  to  press  forward.  It  was  their  hope  to 
make  their  w^ay  undiscovered  to  the  very  vicinity  of  the  Black- 
foot  camp ;  but  they  had  not  proceeded  far  in  the  defile,  when 
they  met  a  scouting  })arty  of  the  enemy.  They  attaolced  and 
drove  them  among  the  hills,  and  were  pursuing  them  with 
great  eagerness  when  they  heard  shouts  and  yells  behind  them, 
and  beheld  the  main  body  of  the  Blackfeet  advancing. 

The  second  chief  wavered  a  little  at  the  sight  and  proposed 
an  instant  retreat.  "We  came  to  fight!"  replied  Blue  John, 
sternly.     Then  giving  his  war-whoop,  he  sprang  forward  to 


120         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  conflict.  His  braves  followed  him.  They  made  a  head- 
long charge  upon  the  enemy;  not  %vith  the  hope  of  victory, 
but  the  determination  to  sell  their  lives  dearly.  A  frightful 
carnage,  rather  than  a  regular  battle,  succeeded.  The  forlorn 
band  laid  heaps  of  their  enemies  dead  at  their  feet,  but  were 
overwhelmed  with  numbers  and  pressed  into  a  gorge  of  the 
mountain ;  where  they  continued  to  fight  until  they  were  cut 
to  pieces.  One  only,  of  the  thirty,  survived.  He  sprang  on 
the  horse  of  a  Blackf  oot  warrior  whom  he  had  slain,  and  escap- 
ing at  full  speed,  brought  home  the  balefid  tidings  to  his 
village. 

Who  can  paint  the  horror  and  desolation  of  the  inhabitants? 
The  flower  of  their  warriors  laid  low,  and  a  ferocious  enemy  at 
their  doors.  The  air  was  rent  by  the  shrieks  and  lamentations 
of  the  women,  who,  casting  off  their  ornaments  and  tearing 
their  hair,  wandered  about,  frantically  bewailing  the  dead 
and  predicting  destruction  to  the  living.  The  remaining  war- 
riors armed  themselves  for  obstinate  defence;  but  showed  by 
their  gloomy  looks  and  sullen  silence  that  they  considered  de- 
fence hopeless.  To  their  surprise  the  Blackfeet  refrained  from 
pursuing  their  advantage;  perhaps  satisfied  with  the  blood 
already  shed,  or  disheartened  by  the  loss  they  had  themselves 
sustained.  At  any  rate,  they  disappeared  from  the  hills,  and 
it  was  soon  ascertained  that  they  had  returned  to  the  Horse 
Prairie. 

The  imf  ortunate  Nez  Perces  noAv  began  once  more  to  breathe. 
A  few  of  their  warriors,  taking  pack-horses,  repaired  to  the 
defile  to  bring  away  the  bodies  of  their  slaughtered  brethren. 
They  found  them  mere  headless  trunks ;  and  the  wounds  with 
which  they  were  covered  showed  how  bravely  they  had 
fought.  Their  hearts,  too,  had  been  torn  out  and  carried  off; 
a  proof  of  their  signal  valor ;  for  in  devouring  the  heart  of  a 
foe  renowned  for  bravery,  or  who  has  distinguished  himself  in 
battle,  the  Indian  victor  tliinks  he  appropriates  to  himself  the 
courage  of  the  deceased. 

Gathering  the  mangled  bodies  of  the  slain,  and  strapping 
them  across  their  pack-horses,  the  warriors  returned,  in  dis- 
mal procession,  to  the  village.  The  tribe  came  forth  to  meet 
them;  the  women  with  piercing  cries  and  wailings;  the  men 
with  downcast  countenances,  in  which  gloom  and  sorrow 
seemed  fixed  as  if  in  marble.  The  mutOated  and  almost  undis- 
tinguishable  bodies  were  placed  in  rows  upon  the  ground,  in 
the  midst  of  the  assemblage;  and  the  scene  of  heart-rending 


ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAiy  BONNEVILLE.         121 

angiiish  and  lamentation  that  ensued  would  have  confounded 
those  who  insist  on  Indian  stoicism. 

Such  was  the  disastrous  event  that  had  overwhelmed  the 
Nez  Perces  tribe  during  the  absence  of  Captain  Jionneville; 
and  he  was  informed  that  Kosato,  the  renegade,  who,  being 
stationed  in  the  village,  had  been  prevented  from  going  on  the 
forlorn  hope,  was  again  striving  to  rouse  the  vindictive  feel- 
ings of  his  adopted  brethren,  and  to  prompt  them  to  revenge 
the  slaughter  of  their  devoted  braves. 

During  his  sojourn  on  the  Snake  lliver  plain.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville made  one  of  his  first  essays  at  the  strategy  of  the  fur 
trade.  There  was  at  this  time  an  assemblage  of  Nez  Perces, 
Flatheads,  and  Cottonois  Indians  encamped  together  upon  the 
I>lain;  well  provided  with  beaver,  which  they  had  collected 
during  the  spring.  These  they  were  waiting  to  traffic  with  a 
a  resident  trader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  was 
stationed  among  them,  and  with  Avhom  they  were  accustomed 
to  deal.  As  it  happened,  the  trader  was  almost  entirely  desti- 
tute of  Indian  goods ;  his  spring  supply  not  having  yet  reached 
him.  Captain  Bonneville  had  secret  intelligence  that  the  sup- 
plies were  on  their  way,  and  woidd  soon  arrive ;  he  hoped,  how- 
ever, by  a  prompt  move,  to  anticipate  their  arrival,  and  secure 
the  market  to  himself.  Throwing  himself,  therefore,  among  the 
Indians,  he  opened  his  packs  of  merchandise  and  displayed  the 
most  tempting  wares :  bright  cloths,  and  scarlet  blankets,  and 
glittering  ornaments,  and  everything  gay  and  glorious  in  the 
eyes  of  warrior  or  squaw;  all,  however,  was  in  vain.  The  Hud- 
son's Bay  trader  was  a  perfect  master  of  his  business,  thor- 
rougly  acquainted  Avith  the  Indians  he  had  to  deal  with,  and 
held  such  control  over  them  that  none  dared  to  act  openly  in 
opposition  to  liis  Avishes ;  nay,  more— he  came  nigh  turning  the 
tables  upon  the  captain,  and  shaking  the  allegiance  of  some 
of  his  free  trappers,  by  distributing  liquors  among  them.  The 
latter,  therefore,  was  glad  to  give  up  a  competition,  where  the 
war  was  hkely  to  be  carried  into  his  own  camp. 

In  fact,  the  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  ad- 
vantages over  all  competitors  in  the  trade  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  That  huge  monopoly  centres  within  itself  not 
merely  its  own  hereditary  and  long-established  power  and  in- 
fluence ;  but  also  those  of  its  ancient  rival,  but  now  integral 
part,  the  famous  Northwest  Company.  It  has  thus  its  races  of 
traders,  trappers,  hunters,  and  voj-ageurs,  born  and  brought 
up  in  its  service,  and  inheriting  from  preceding  generations  a 


122  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

knowledge  and  aptitude  in  everything  connected  with  Indian 
Ufc,  and  Indian  traflic.  In  the  process  of  years,  this  company 
has  heen  enabled  to  spread  its  ramifications  in  every  direction ; 
its  system  of  intercourse  is  founded  upon  a  long  and  intimate 
knoAvledge  of  the  character  and  necessities  of  the  various  tribes ; 
and  of  all  the  fastnesses,  defiles,  and  favorable  hunting  gi-ounds 
of  the  country.  Their  capital,  also,  and  the  manner  in  which 
their  supplies  ai-e  disti-ibuted  at  various  posts,  or  forwarded  by 
regular  caravans,  keep  their  traders  well  supplied,  and  enable 
them  to  furnish  their  goods  to  the  Indians  at  a  cheap  rate. 
Their  men,  too,  being  chiefly  drawn  from  the  Canadas,  where 
they  enjoy  great  influence  and  control,  are  engaged  at  the  most 
trifling  wages,  and  supported  at  little  cost;  the  provisions 
w^hieh  they  take  with  them  being  little  more  than  Indian  com 
and  grease.  They  are  brought  also  into  the  most  perfect  dis- 
cipline and  subordination,  especially  when  their  leaders  have 
once  got  them  to  their  scene  of  action  in  the  heart  of  the  wil- 
derness. 

These  circumstances  combine  to  give  the  leaders  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  a  decided  advantage  over  all  the  American 
companies  that  come  within  their  range;  so  that  any  close 
competition  with  them  is  almost  hopeless. 

Shortly  after  Captain  Bonneville's  ineffectual  attempt  to 
participate  in  the  trade  of  the  associated  camp,  the  supplies  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  arrived;  and  the  resident  trader 
w^as  enabled  to  monopolize  the  market. 

It  was  now  the  beginning  of  July ;  in  the  latter  part  of  which 
month  Captain  Bonneville  had  appointed  a  rendezvous  at  Horse 
Creek  m  Green  Eiver  valley,  with  some  of  the  parties  which 
he  had  detached  in  the  preceding  year.  He  now  turned  his 
thoughts  in  that  direction,  and  prepared  for  the  journey. 

The  Cottonois  were  anxious  for  him  to  proceed  at  once  to 
their  country ;  w-hich,  they  assured  him,  abounded  in  beaver. 
The  lands  of  this  tribe  lie  immediately  north  of  those  of  the 
Flatheads  and  are  open  to  the  inroads  of  the  Blackfeet.  It  is 
true,  the  latter  professed  to  be  their  allies ;  but  they  had  been 
guilty  of  so  many  acts  of  perfidy,  that  the  Cottonois  had,  lat- 
terly, renounced  theu*  hollow  friendship  and  attached  them 
selves  to  the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Forces.  These  they  had  accom- 
panied in  their  migrations  rather  than  remain  alone  at  home, 
exposed  to  the  outrages  of  the  Blackfeet.  Tliey  were  now  ap- 
prehensive that  tliese  marauders  would  range  their  country 
during:  their  absence  and  destroy  the  beaver;  this  was  their 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         ]23 

reason  for  urging  Captain  Bonneville  to  make  it  his  autumnal 
hunting  ground.  The  latter,  however,  was  not  to  be  tempted; 
his  engagements  required  his  presence  at  the  rendezvous  in 
Green  River  valley;  and  he  had  already  formed  his  ulterior 
plans. 

An  imexpected  difficulty  now  arose.  The  free  trappers  sud- 
denly made  a  stand,  and  declined  to  accompany  him.  It  was 
a  long  and  Aveary  journey;  the  route  lay  througli  Pierre's  Hole, 
and  other  mountain  passes  infested  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  re- 
cently the  scenes  of  sanguinary  confii(;ts.  They  were  not  dis- 
posed to  undertake  such  unnecessary  toils  and  dangers,  when 
they  had  good  and  secure  trapping  grounds  nearer  at  hand,  on 
the  head-waters  of  Salmon  River. 

As  these  were  free  and  independent  fellows,  whose  will  and 
whhn  were  apt  to  be  law — who  had  the  whole  wilderness  be- 
fox-e  them,  "where  to  choose,'' and  the  trader  of  a  rival  com- 
pany at  hand,  ready  to  pay  for  their  services— it  was  necessary 
to  bend  to  their  wishes.  Captain  Bonneville  fitted  them  out, 
therefore,  for  the  hunting  ground  in  question;  appointing  Mr. 
Hodgkiss  to  act  as  their  partisan,  or  leader,  and  fixing  a  ren- 
dezvous wh§re  he  should  meet  them  in  the  course  of  the  ensu- 
ing winter.  The  brigade  consisted  of  twen-ty-one  free  trappers 
and  four  or  five  hired  men  as  camp-k(>epers.  This  was  not  the 
exact  arrangement  of  a  trapping  party ;  which  when  accurately 
organized  is  composed  of  two  thirds  trappers  whose  duty  leads 
them  continually  abroad  in  pursuit  of  game;  and  one  third 
camp-keepers  who  cook,  pack,  and  unpack;  set  up  the  tents, 
take  care  ol'  the  horses  and  do  all  other  duties  usually  assigned 
by  the  Ip'^ians  to  their  women.  This  part  of  the  service  is  apt 
to  be  fulfilled  by  French  Creoles  from  Canada  and  the  valley  of 
the  Mississippi. 

In  the  meantime  the  associated  Indians  having  completed 
their  trade  and  received  their  supplies,  were  all  ready  to  dis- 
])erse  in  various  directions.  As  there  was  a  formidable  band 
of  Blackfeet  just  over  a  mountain  to  the  northeast,  by  which 
Hodgkiss  and  his  free  trappers  would  have  to  pass ;  and  as  it 
was  known,  that  those  sharp-sighted  marauders  had  then* 
scouts  out  watching  every  movement  of  the  encampments,  so 
as  to  cut  off  stragglers  or  weak  detachments,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville prevailed  upon  the  Noz  Perces  to  accomjiany  Hodgkiss 
and  his  party  until  they  should  be  beyond  the  range  of  the 
enemy. 

The  Cottonois  and  the  Fends  Oreilles  determined  to  move 


124        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

together  at  the  same  time,  and  to  pass  close  under  the  moun- 
tain infested  by  the  Blackf eet ;  while  Captain  Bonneville,  with 
his  party,  was  to  strike  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  south- 
east, bending  his  course  for  Pierre's  Hole,  on  his  way  to  Green 
River. 

Accordingly,  on  the  6th  of  July,  all  the  camps  were  raised  at 
the  same  moment ;  each  party  taking  its  separate  route.  The 
scene  was  wild  and  picturesque ;  the  long  line  of  traders,  trap- 
pers, and  Indians,  with  their  rugged  and  fantastic  dresses  and 
accoutrements ;  their  varied  weapons,  their  innumerable 
horses,  some  under  the  saddle,  some  burdened  with  packages, 
others  following  in  droves;  all  stretching  in  lengthening  caval- 
cades across  the  vast  landscape,  and  making  for  different 
points  of  the  plains  and  mountains. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

PRECAUTIONS     IN     DANGEROUS     DEFILES— TRAPPERS'     MODE      OF 

DEFENCE   ON    A  PRAIRIE A  MYSTERIOUS  VISITOR — ARRIVAL  IN 

GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY — ADVENTURES    OP    THE  DETACHMENTS-- 
THE  FORLORN  PARTISAN — HIS   TALE   OF  DISASTERS. 

As  the  route  of  Captain  Bonneville  lay  through  what  was 
considered  the  most  perilous  part  of  this  region  of  dangers,  he 
took  all  his  measures  with  military  skill,  and  observed  the 
strictest  circumspection.  When  on  the  march,  a  small  scout- 
ing party  was  thrown  in  the  advance  to  reconnoitre  the  coun- 
try through  which  they  were  to  pass.  The  encampments  were 
selected  with  great  care,  and  a  watch  was  kept  up  night  and 
day.  The  horses  were  brought  in  and  picketed  at  night,  and 
at  daybreak  a  party  was  sent  out  to  scour  the  neighborhood  for 
half  a  mile  round,  beating  up  every  grove  and  thicket  that 
could  give  shelter  to  a  lurking  foe.  When  all  was  reported 
safe,  the  horses  were  cast  loose  and  turned  out  to  graze.  Were 
such  precautions  generally  observed  by  traders  and  hunters, 
we  should  not  so  often  hear  of  parties  being  surprised  by  the 
Indians. 

Having  stated  the  military  arrangements  of  the  captain,  we 
may  here  mention  a  mode  of  defence  on  the  open  prairie, 
■wliich  we  have  heard  from  a  veteran  in  the  Indian  trade. 


ADVENTURED   OF   CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         125 

When  a  party  of  trappers  is  on  a  journey  with  a  convoy  of 
goods  or  peltries,  eveiy  man  has  tlirce  pack-horses  under  his 
care;  each  horse  laden  Avith  three  packs.  Every  man  is  pro 
vided  with  a  picket  Avith  an  iron  head,  a  mallet,  and  hobbles, 
or  leathern  fetters  for  the  horses.  The  trappers  proceed  across 
the  prairie  in  a  long  hue ;  or  sometimes  three  parallel  lines, 
sufficiently  distant  from  each  other  to  prevent  the  packs  from 
interfering.  At  an  alarm,  when  there  is  no  covei-t  at  hand, 
the  hne  Avheels  so  as  to  bring  the  front  to  the  rear  and  form 
a  circle.  All  then  dismount,  drive  their  pickets  into  the 
ground  in  the  centre,  fasten  the  horses  to  them,  and  hobble 
their  forelegs,  so  that,  in  case  of  alarm,  they  cannot  break 
away.  Then  they  unload  them,  and  dispose  of  their  packs  as 
breastAvorks  on  the  periphery  of  the  circle ;  each  man  haA'ing 
nine  packs  behind  Avhich  to  shelter  himself.  In  this  promptly- 
formed  fortress,  they  await  the  assault  of  the  enemy,  and  are 
enabled  to  set  large  bands  of  Indians  at  defiance. 

The  first  night  of  his  march,  Ca^itain  Bonneville  encamped 
upon  Henry's  Fork ;  an  upper  branch  of  Snake  River,  called 
after  the  first  American  trader  that  erected  a  fort  beyond  the 
mountains.  Abovit  an  hour  after  all  hands  had  come  to  a 
halt  the  clatter  of  hoofs  was  heard,  and  a  sohtary  female,  of 
the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  came  galloping  up.  She  Avas  mounted 
on  a  mustang  or  half  Avild  horse,  Avhich  she  managed  by  a 
long  rope  hitched  round  the  under  jaw  by  Avay  of  bridle. 
Dismounting,  she  Avalked  silently  into  the  midst  of  the  camp, 
and  there  seated  herself  on  the  ground,  still  liolding  her  horse 
by  the  long  halter. 

The  sudden  and  lonely  apparition  of  this  woman,  and  her 
calm  yet  resolute  demeanor,  aAvakened  universal  curiosity. 
The  hunters  and  trappers  gathered  round,  and  gazed  on  her 
as  somethmg  mysterious.  She  remained  sih^nt,  but  main- 
tained her  air  of  calmness  and  self-possession.  Captain  Bonne- 
A'ille  a])proached  and  interrogated  her  as  to  the  object  of  her 
mysterious  visit.  Her  ansAver  Avas  brief  but  earnest— "  I  loA'e 
the  whites— I  Avill  go  Avith  them."  She  Avas  fortliAvith  iuA-ited 
to  a  lodge,  of  which  she  readily  took  possession,  and  from  that 
time  forward  was  considered  one  of  the  camp. 

In  consequence,  A^ery  probably,  of  the  mihtary  precautions 
of  Captain  BonncA-ille,  he  conducted  his  party  in  safety 
through  this  hazardous  region.  No  accident  of  a  disastrous 
kind  occiUTod.  excepting  the  loss  of  a  horse.  Avliicli,  in  passing 
along  the  giddy  edge  of  a  precipice,  called  the  Cornice,  a  dan- 


12G         ADVENTUIIES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

gerous  pass  between  Jackson's  and  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  over  the 
brink,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces. 

On  the  13th  of  July  (18.33),  Captain  Bonneville  arrived  at 
Green  Eiver.  As  lie  entered  the  valley,  ho  beheld  it  strewed  in 
every  direction  with  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes.  It  was  evident 
that  Indians  had  recently  been  there,  and  in  great  numbers. 
Alarmed  at  this  sight,  he  came  to  a  halt,  and  as  soon  as  it  was 
dark,  sent  out  spies  to  his  place  of  rendezvous  on  Horse  Creek, 
where  ho  had  expected  to  meet  with  his  detached  parties  of 
trappers  on  the  following  day.  Early  in  the  morning  the  spies 
made  their  appearance  in  the  camp,  and  with  them  came  three 
trappers  of  one  of  his  bands,  from  the  rendezvous,  who  told 
him  his  people  were  all  there  expecting  hun.  As  to  the 
slaughter  among  the  buffaloes,  it  had  been  made  by  a  friendly 
band  of  ShoshoF 'es,  who  had  fallen  in  with  one  of  his  trapping 
parties,  and  accompanied  them  to  the  rendezvous.  Having 
imparted  this  intelligence,  the  three  worthies  from  the  ren- 
dezvous broached  a  small  keg  of  "  alcohol, "  which  they  had 
brought  with  them,  to  enliven  this  merry  meeting.  The  liquor 
went  briskly  round ;  all  absent  friends  were  toasted,  and  the 
party  moved  forward  to  the  rendezvous  in  high  sjiirits. 

The  meeting  of  associated  bands,  who  have  been  separated 
from  each  other  on  these  hazardous  enterprises,  is  always  in- 
teresting; each  having  its  tales  of  perils  and  adventui-es  to 
relate.  Such  Avas  the  case  with  the  various  detaclnnents  of 
Captain  Bonneville's  company,  thus  brought  together  on  Horse 
Creek.  Here  was  the  detachment  of  fifty  men  Avhich  he  had 
sent  from  Salmon  River,  in  the  preceding  month  of  November, 
to  winter  on  Snake  River.  They  had  met  Avith  many  crosses 
and  losses  in  the  course  of  their  spring  hunt,  not  so  much  from 
Indians  as  from  white  men.  They  had  come  in  competition 
Avith  rival  trapping  parties,  particularly  one  belonging  to  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company ;  and  they  had  long  stories  to 
relate  of  their  manoeuvres  to  forestall  or  distress  each  other. 
In  fact,  in  these  virulent  and  sordid  competitions,  the  trappers 
of  each  party  were  more  intent  upon  injuring  their  rivals, 
than  benefitting  themseH^es ;  breaking  each  other's  traps,  tramp- 
ling and  tearing  to  pieces  tlio  beaver  lodges,  and  doing  every- 
thing in  their  poAA'er  to  mar  the  success  of  the  hunt.  We  for- 
bear to  detail  these  pitiful  contentions. 

The  most  lamentable  tale  of  disasters,  hoAA'^CA^er,  that  Captain 
Bonneville  had  to  hear,  was  from  a  partisan,  whom  he  had 
detached  in  the  preceding  year,  Avith  twenty  men,  to  hunt 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         107 

through  the  outskirts  of  the  Crow  country,  and  on  the  tribu- 
tary streams  ot  the  Yellowstone;  whence  he  was  to  proceed 
and  joui  him  in  liis  winter  quarters  on  Salmon  River.  This 
partisan  appeared  at  the  rendezvous  witlioiit  his  party,  and  a 
soiTowful  tale  of  disasters  had  he  to  relate.  In  huntuig  tho 
Crow  country,  he  fell  in  with  a  village  of  that  tribe;  hf)t<)rious 
rogues,  jockeys,  and  horse  stealei's,  and  errant  scamperers  of 
the  mountains.  These  decoyed  most  of  his  men  to  desert,  and 
carry  olf  horses,  traps,  and  accoutrements.  Wlien  he  at- 
tempted to  retake  the  deserters,  the  Crow  warrioi-s  ruffled  up 
to  him  and  declared  the  deserters  v^ere  their  good  friends,  hod 
determined  to  remain  among  them,  and  should  not  be  mo- 
lested. The  poor  partisan,  therefore,  was  fain  to  leave  his 
vagabonds  among  these  birds  of  their  own  feather,  and  being 
too  weak  in  numbei-s  to  attempt  the  dangerous  pass  across  the 
mountains  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  on  Salmon  River,  he 
made,  with  the  few  that  remained  faithful  to  him,  for  the 
neighborhood  of  Tullock  s  Fort,  on  the  Yellowstone,  under  the 
protection  of  which  he  went  into  winter  quarters. 

He  soon  found  out  that  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort  was 
nearly  as  bad  as  the  neighborhood  of  the  Crows.  His  men 
were  continually  stealing  away  thither,  Avith  whatever  beaver 
skins  they  could  secrete  or  lay  their  han<is  on.  These  they 
would  exchange  with  the  hangers-on  of  the  fort  for  whiskey, 
and  then  revel  in  drunkenness  and  debauchery. 

The  unlucky  pai-tisan  made  another  move.  Associating  with 
his  party  a  few  free  trappers,  whom  he  met  with  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, he  started  off  early  in  the  spring  to  trap  on  the  head 
waters  of  Powder  River.  In  the  course  of  the  joiu-ney,  his 
horses  were  so  much  jaded  in  traversing  a  steep  mountain, 
that  he  was  indiiced  to  turn  them  loose  to  graze  during  tho 
night.  The  place  was  lonely;  the  path  was  rugge<l;  there  was 
not  the  sign  of  an  Indian  in  the  neighborhood;  not  a  blade  of 
grass  that  had  been  turned  by  a  footstep.  But  who  can  calcu- 
late on  security  in  the  midst  of  the  Indian  country,  where  the 
foe  lurks  in  silence  and  secrecy,  and  seems  to  come  and  go  on 
the  wings  of  the  Avind?  Tlie  horses  had  scarce  been  turned 
loose,  Avdien  a  couple  of  Arickara  (or  Rifkaree)  warriors  en- 
tered the  camp.  Tliey  affected  a  frank  and  friendly  demeanor; 
but  their  ayipearance  and  movements  awakened  the  sus])icion8 
of  some  of  the  veteran  trappers,  well  versed  in  Indian  wiles. 
ConA-inced  that  they  were  spies  sent  on  some  sinister  errand, 
they  took  them  in  custody,  and  set  to  work  to  drive  in  the 


128         ADVENTURES   OF   CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

horses.  It  was  too  late — the  horses  were  already  gone.  In 
fact,  a  war  party  of  Arickaras  had  been  hovering  on  their  trail 
for  several  days,  watching  with  the  patience  and  perseverance 
of  Indians,  for  some  moment  of  negligence  and  fancied  secu- 
rity, to  make  a  successful  swoop.  The  two  spies  had  evidently 
been  sent  into  the  camp  to  create  a  diversion,  while  their  con- 
federates carried  ofE  the  spoil. 

The  unlucky  partisan,  thus  robbed  of  his  horses,  turned  furi- 
ously on  his  prisoners,  ordered  them  to  be  bound  hand  and 
foot,  and  swore  to  put  them  to  death  unless  his  property  were 
restored.  The  robbers,  who  soon  found  that  theu-  spies  were 
in  captivity,  now  made  their  apiDearance  on  horseback,  and 
held  a  parley.  The  sight  of  them,  mounted  on  the  very  horses 
they  had  stolen,  set  the  blood  of  the  mountaineers  in  a  fer- 
ment ;  but  it  was  useless  to  attack  them,  as  they  would  have 
but  to  turn  their  steeds  and  scamper  out  of  the  reach  of  pedes- 
trians. A  negotiation  was  now  attempted.  The  Arickaras 
offered  what  they  considered  fair  terms ;  to  barter  one  horse, 
or  even  two  horses,  for  a  prisoner.  The  mountaineers  spurned 
at  their  offer,  and  declared  that,  unless  all  the  horses  were  re- 
linquished, the  prisoners  should  be  burnt  to  death.  To  give 
force  to  their  threat,  a  pyre  of  logs  and  fagots  was  heaped  up 
and  kindled  into  a  blaze. 

The  parley  continued;  the  Arickaras  released  one  horse  and 
then  another,  in  earnest  of  their  proposition ;  finding,  hoAvever, 
that  nothing  short  of  the  relinquishment  of  all  their  spoils 
would  purchase  the  lives  of  the  captives,  they  abandoned  them. 
to  their  fate,  moving  off  with  many  parting  words  and  lament- 
able bowlings.  The  prisoners  seeing  them  depart,  and  know- 
ing the  horrible  fate  that  awaited  them,  made  a  desperate 
effort  to  escape.  They  partially  succeeded,  but  were  severely 
wounded  and  retaken ;  then  dragged  to  the  blazing  pyre,  and 
burnt  to  death  in  the  sight  of  their  retreating  comrades. 

Such  are  the  savage  cruelties  that  white  men  learn  to  prac- 
tise, who  mingle  in  savage  life ;  and  such  are  the  acts  that  lead 
to  terrible  recrimination  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Should 
we  hear  of  any  atrocities  committed  by  the  Arickaras  upon 
captive  white  men,  let  this  signal  and  recent  provocation  be 
borne  in  mind.  Individual  cases  of  the  kind  dwell  in  the  recol- 
lections of  whole  tribes;  and  it  is  a  point  of  honor  and  con- 
science to  revenge  them. 

The  loss  of  his  horses  completed  the  ruin  of  the  Unlucky  par- 
tisan.    It  was  out  of  his  power  to  prosecute  his  hunting,  or  to 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         129 

maintain  his  party ;  the  only  thought  now  was  how  to  got  hack 
to  civiUzed  hfo.  At  the  first  water-course,  his  men  built  canoes, 
and  committed  themselves  to  the  stream.  Some  engaged  them- 
selves at  various  ti'ading  estabhshments  at  which  they  touched, 
others  got  hack  to  the  settlements.  As  to  the  partisan,  he  found 
an  opportunity  to  make  his  way  to  the  rendezvous  at  Green 
River  valley ;  which  he  reached  in  time  to  render  to  Captain 
Bonneville  this  forlorn  account  of  his  misadventures. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

GATHERINQ  IN  GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY— VISITINGS  AND  FEASTINGS 
OF  LEADERS  —  ROUGH  WASSAILING  AMONG  THE  TRAPPERS  — 
WILD  BLADES  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS — INDIAN  BELLES— POTENCY 
OF  BRIGHT  BEADS  AND  RED  BLANKETS — ARRIVAL  OF  SUPPLIES 
—  REVELRY  AND  EXTRAVAGANCE  —  MAD  WOLVES  —  THE  LOST 
INDLAN. 

The  Green  River  valley  was  at  this  time  the  scene  of  one  of 
those  general  gatherings  of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians,  that 
we  have  already  mentioned.  The  three  rival  companies,  which, 
for  a  year  past  had  been  endeavoring  to  out- trade,  out-trap, 
and  outwit  each  other,  were  here  encamped  in  close  proximity, 
awaiting  their  annual  supplies.  About  four  miles  from  the 
rendezvous  of  Captain  Bonne %'ille  was  that  of  the  American 
Fur  Company,  hard  by  which,  was  that  also  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company. 

After  the  eager  rivalry  and  almost  hostility  displayed  by 
these  companies  in  their  late  campaigns,  it  might  be  expected 
that,  when  thus  brought  in  juxta]iosition,  they  would  hold 
themselves  warily  and  sternly  aloof  from  each  other,  and, 
should  they  happen  to  come  in  contact,  brawl  and  bloodshed 
would  ensue. 

No  such  thing !  Never  did  rival  lawyers  after  a  wrangle  at 
the  bar  meet  with  more  social  go(,)d-hinnor  at  a  circuit  dinner. 
The  lumting  season  over,  all  past  tricks  and  manoeuvres  are 
forgotten,  all  feuds  and  bickerings  buried  in  obliviou.  From 
the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  Septenilior,  all  trapping  is 
suspended;  for  the  beavers  are  then  shedding  their  furs  and 
their  skins  are  of  little  value.     Tliis,  then,  is  the  trapper's  holi- 


130         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

day  when  he  is  all  for  fun  and  frolic,  and  ready  for  a  satur- 
nalia among  the  mountains. 

At  the  present  season,  too,  all  parties  were  in  good  humor. 
The  year  had  been  productive.  Competition,  by  threatening 
to  lessen  their  profits,  had  quickened  their  wits,  roused  their 
energies,  and  made  them  turn  every  favorable  chance  to  the 
best  advantage;  so  that,  on  assembling  at  their  respective 
places  of  rendezvous,  each  company  found  itseK  in  possession 
of  a  rich  stock  of  peltries. 

The  leaders  of  the  ditferent  companies,  therefore,  mingled  on 
terms  of  perfect  good-fellowship;  interchanging  visits,  and  re- 
galing each  other  in  the  best  style  their  respective  camps  af- 
forded. But  the  rich  treat  for  the  worthy  captain  was  to  see 
the  "  chivalry"  of  the  various  encampments  engaged  m  contests 
of  skill  at  running,  jumping,  wresthng,  shooting  with  the  rifle, 
and  running  horses.  And  then  their  rough  hunters'  feastings 
and  carousals.  They  drank  together,  they  sang,  they  laughed, 
they  whooped ;  they  tried  to  outbrag  and  outlie  each  other  in 
stories  of  their  adventures  and  achievements.  Here  the  free 
trappers  were  in  all  their  glory;  they  considered  themselves 
the  "cocks  of  the  walk,"  and  always  carried  the  highest  crests. 
Now  and  then  familiarity  was  pushed  too  far,  and  would  effer- 
vesce into  a  brawl,  and  a  "  rough  and  tumble"  fight;  but  it  all 
ended  in  cordial  reconciliation  and  maudlin  endearment. 

The  presence  of  the  Shoshonie  tribe  contributed  occasionally 
to  cause  temporary  jealousies  and  feuds.  The  Shoshonie  beau- 
ties became  objects  of  rivalry  among  some  of  the  amorous 
mountaineers.  Happy  was  the  trapper  who  coidd  muster  up  a 
red  blanket,  a  string  of  gay  beads,  or  a  paper  of  precious  ver- 
milion, with  which  to  win  the  smiles  of  a  Shoshonie  fair  one. 

The  caravans  of  supplies  arrived  at  the  valley  just  at  this 
period  of  gallantry  and  good-fellowship.  Now  commenced  a 
scene  of  eager  competition  and  wild  prodigality  at  the  different 
encampments.  Bales  were  hastily  ripped  open,  and  their  motley 
contents  poured  forth.  A  mania  for  purchasing  spread  itself 
throughout  the  several  bands — munitions  for  war,  for  hunting, 
for  gallantry,  were  seized  upon  with  equal  avidity — rifles, 
hunting  knives,  traps,  scarlet  cloth,  red  blankets,  garish  beads, 
and  glittering  trinkets,  were  bought  at  any  price,  and  scores 
run  up  without  any  thought  how  they  were  ever  to  be  rubbed 
off.  The  free  trappers  especially  were  extravagant  in  their 
purchases.  For  a  free  mountaineer  to  pause  at  a  paltry  con- 
sideration of  dollars  and  cents,  in  the  attainment  of  any  object 


ADVKyrURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         \\\\ 

that  might  strike  his  fancy,  would  stamp  him  with  the  mark 
of  the  beast  in  tiie  estimation  of  his  comrades.  For  a  trader  to 
refuse  one  of  these  free  and  flourishing  blades  a  credit,  what- 
ever unpaid  scores  might  stare  him  in  the  face,  would  be  a  fla- 
grant affront,  scarcely  to  be  forgiven. 

Now  succeeded  another  outbi-eak  of  revelry  and  extrava- 
gance. The  trappers  were  newly  fitted  out  and  ari-ayed,  and 
dashed  about  with  their  horses  caparisoned  in  Indian  st3'le. 
The  Shoshonie  beauties  also  flaunted  about  in  all  the  colors  of 
the  rainbow.  Every  freak  of  prodigality  was  indulged  to  its 
fullest  extent,  and  in  a  little  while  most  of  the  trappers,  having 
squandered  away  all  their  wages,  and  perhaps  run  knee-deep 
in  debt,  were  ready  for  another  hard  campaign  in  the  wilder- 
ness. 

During  this  season  of  folly  and  frolic,  there  was  an  alarm  of 
mad  wolves  in  the  two  lower  camps.  One  or  more  of  these 
animals  entered  the  camps  for  three  nights  successively,  and 
bit  several  of  the  people. 

Captain  Bonneville  relates  the  case  of  an  Indian  who  was  a 
universal  favorite  in  the  lower  camp.  He  had  been  bitten  by 
one  of  these  animals.  Being  out  with  a  party  shortly  afterward 
he  grew  silent  and  gloomy,  and  lagged  behind  the  rest,  as  if 
he  wished  to  leave  them.  They  halted  and  lu-ged  liim  to  move 
faster,  but  he  entreated  them  not  to  approach  him,  and,  leap- 
ing from  his  horse,  began  to  roll  frantically  on  the  earth,  gnash- 
ing his  teeth  and  foaming  at  the  mouth.  Still  he  retained  his 
senses,  and  warned  his  companions  not  to  come  near  him,  as 
he  should  not  be  able  to  restrain  himself  from  biting  them. 
They  hurried  off  to  obtain  relief;  but  on  their  return  he  was 
nowhere  to  be  found.  His  horse  and  his  accoutrements  re- 
mained upon  the  spot.  Three  or  four  days  afterAvard,  a  soli- 
tary Indian,  believed  to  be  the  same,  was  obsei-ved  crossing  a 
valley,  and  pursued ;  but  he  darted  away  into  the  fastnesses  of 
the  mountains,  and  was  seen  no  more. 

Another  instance  we  have  from  a  different  person  who  was 
present  in  the  encampment.  One  of  the  men  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  had  been  bitten.  He  set  out  shortly 
afterward  in  company  with  two  white  men.  on  his  retin*n  to  the 
settlements.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  h(>  showed  symptoms 
of  hydrophobia,  and  became  raving  toward  night.  At  length, 
breaking  away  from  his  companions,  he  rushed  into  a  thicket 
of  willows,  where  they  left  him  to  his  fate! 


132         ADVE^s'TURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

SCHEMES  OP  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE— THE  GEEAT  SALT  LAKE— EX- 
PEDITION TO  EXPLORE  IT — PREPARATIONS  FOR  A  JOURNEY  TO 
THE    BIGHORN. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  found  himself  at  the  head  of  a 
hardy,  well-seasoned  and  well-appointed  company  of  trappers, 
all  benefited  by  at  least  one  year's  experience  among  the  moun- 
tains, and  capable  of  protecting  themselves  from  Indian  ^viles 
and  stratagems,  and  of  providing  for  their  subsistence  wherever 
game  was  to  be  found.  He  had,  also,  an  excellent  troop  of 
horses,  in  prime  condition,  and  fit  for  hard  service.  He  deter- 
mined, therefore,  to  strike  out  into  some  of  the  bolder  parts  of 
his  scheme.  One  of  these  was  to  carry  his  expeditions  into 
some  of  the  unknown  tracts  of  the  Far  West,  beyond  what  is 
generally  termed  the  buffalo  range.  This  would  have  some- 
thing of  the  merit  and  charm  of  discovery,  so  dear  to  every 
brave  and  adventurous  spirit.  Another  favorite  project  was 
to  establish  a  trading  post  on  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia 
River,  near  the  Multnomah  vaUey,  and  to  endeavor  to  re- 
trieve for  his  country  some  of  the  lost  trade  of  Astoria. 

The  first  of  the  above  mentioned  views  was,  at  present, 
uppermost  in  his  mind — the  exploring  of  unknown  regions. 
Among  the  grand  features  of  the  wilderness  about  which  he 
was  roaming,  one  had  made  a  vivid  impression  on  his  mind, 
and  been  clothed  by  his  imagination  with  vague  and  ideal 
chai'ms.  This  is  a  great  lake  of  salt  water,  laving  the  feet  of  the 
mountaias,  but  extending  far  to  the  west-southwest,  into  one 
of  those  vast  and  elevated  plateaus  of  land,  which  range  high 
above  the  level  of  the  Pacific. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  striking  account  of  the  lake  when 
seen  from  the  land.  As  you  ascend  the  mountains  about  its 
shores,  says  he,  you  behold  this  immense  body  of  water  spread- 
ing itself  before  you,  and  stretching  further  and  further,  in.  one 
wide  and  fai'-reaching  expanse,  until  the  eye,  wearied  with 
continued  and  strained  attention,  rests  in  the  blue  dimness  of 
distance,  upon  lofty  ranges  of  mountains,  confidently  asserted 
to  rise  from  the  bosom  of  the  waters.    Nearer  to  you,  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         133 

smooth  and  unruffled  surface  is  studded  with  little  islands, 
where  the  mountain  sheep  roam  in  considerable  numbers. 
What  extent  of  lowland  may  be  encompassed  by  the  high 
peaks  beyond,  must  remain  for  the  present  matter  of  mere 
conjecture;  though  from  the  form  of  the  summits,  and  the 
breaks  which  may  be  discovered  among  them,  there  can  bo 
little  doubt  that  they  are  the  sources  of  streams  calculated  to 
water  large  tracts,  which  are  probably  concealed  from  view  by 
the  rotundity  of  the  lake's  surface.  At  some  future  day,  iu 
all  probability,  the  rich  harvest  of  beaver  fur,  which  may  be 
reasonably  anticipated  in  such  a  spot,  will  tcmi^t  adventurers 
to  reduce  all  this  doubtful  region  to  the  palpable  certainty  of  a 
beaten  track.  At  present,  however,  destitute  of  the  means  of 
making  boats,  the  trapper  stands  upon  the  shore,  and  gazes 
upon  a  promised  land  which  his  feet  are  never  to  tread. 

Such  is  the  somewhat  fanciful  view  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville gives  of  this  great  body  of  water.  He  has  evidently 
taken  part  of  his  ideas  concerning  it  from  the  representations 
of  others,  who  have  somewhat  exaggerated  its  features.  It  is 
reported  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and 
fifty  miles  broad.  The  ranges  of  mountain  peaks  which  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  speaks  of,  as  rising  from  its  bosom,  are  prob- 
ably the  summits  of  mountains  beyond  it,  which  may  be 
visible  at  a  vast  distance,  when  viewed  from  an  eminence,  in  the 
transparent  atmosphere  of  these  lofty  regions.  Sevei*al  large 
islands  certainly  exist  in  the  lake ;  one  of  which  is  said  to  be 
mountainous,  but  not  by  any  means  to  the  extent  required  to 
furnish  the  series  of  peaks  above  mentioned. 

Cajjtain  Sublette,  in  one  of  his  earlj-  expeditions  across  the 
mountains,  is  said  to  have  sent  four  men  in  a  skin  canoe,  to 
explore  the  lake,  who  professed  to  have  navigated  all  round  it ; 
but  to  have  suffered  excessively  from  thirst,  the  ^Yater  of  the 
lake  being  extremely  salt,  and  there  being  no  fresh  strcarais 
running  into  it. 

Captain  Bonneville  doubts  this  report,  or  that  the  men  ac- 
complished the  circumnavigation,  because,  he  says,  the  lake 
receives  several  large  streams  from  the  mountains  which 
bound  it  to  the  east.  In  the  spring,  when  the  streams  are 
swollen  by  rain  and  by  the  melting  of  the  snows,  the  lake  rises 
several  feet  above  its  ordinaiy  level;  during  the  summer,  it 
gradually  subsides  again,  leaving  a  sparkling  zone  of  the  finest 
salt  upon  its  shores. 

The  elevation  of  the  vast  plateau  on  which  this  lake  is  situ- 


134         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

ated,  is  estimated  by  Captain  Bonneville  at  one  and  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  The  admirable 
purity  and  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  in  this  region,  al- 
lowing objects  to  be  seen,  and  the  report  of  firearms  to  be 
heard  at  an  astonishing  distance;  and  its  extreme  drj'ness, 
causing  the  wheels  of  wagons  to  fall  in  pieces,  as  instanced  in 
former  passages  of  this  work,  are  proofs  of  the  great  altitude 
of  the  "kocky  Mountain  plains.  That  a  body  of  salt  water 
should  exist  at  such  a  height,  is  cited  as  a  singular  phenome- 
non by  Captain  Bonneville,  though  the  salt  lake  of  Mexico  is 
not  much  inferior  in  elevation.* 

To  have  this  lake  properly  explored,  and  all  its  secrets  re- 
vealed, was  the  grand  scheme  of  the  captain  for  the  present 
year ;  and  while  it  was  one  in  Avhich  his  imagination  evidently 
took  a  leading  part,  he  believed  it  would  be  attended  with  great 
profit,  from  the  numerous  beaver  streams  with  which  the  lake 
must  be  fringed. 

This  momentous  undertaking  he  confided  to  his  lieutenant, 
Mr.  Walker,  in  whose  experience  and  ability  he  had  gi-eat  con- 
fidence. He  instructed  him  to  keep  along  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  and  trap  in  all  the  streams  on  his  route ;  also  to  keep  a 
journal,  and  minutely  to  record  the  events  of  his  journey,  and 
everything  curious  or  interesting,  making  maps  or  charts  of 
his  route,  and  of  the  surrounding  country. 

No  pains  nor  expense  were  spared  in  fitting  out  the  party,  of 
forty  men,  which  he  was  to  command.  They  had  complete 
supplies  for  a  year,  and  were  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  in 
the  ensuing  summer,  in  the  valley  of  Bear  River,  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Salt  Lake,  which  was  to  be  his  point  of  general 
rendezvous.  i 

The  next  care  of  Captain  Bonneville,  was  to  arrange  for  the 
safe  transpprtation  of  the  peltries  which  he  had  collected,  to 
the  Atlantic  States.  Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  the  partner  of  Sub- 
lette, was  at  this  time  in  the  rendezvous  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company,  having  brought  up  their  supplies.  He  was 
about  to  set  off  on  liis  return,  with  the  peltries  collected  during 
the  year,  and  intended  to  proceed  through  the  Crow  country, 
to  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Bighorn  River,  and  to  descend 


*  The  lake  of  Tezcnco,  which  surrnimds  the  city  of  Mexico,  the  largrest  and  lowest 
of  the  five  lakes  in  the  Mexican  plateau,  and  one  of  the  most  impregnated  with  saline 
particles,  is  seven  thoiisMnd  four  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet,  or  nearly  one  mile 
and  a  half  above  thj  level  of  the  sea. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         135 

in  boats  down  that  river,  the  Missouri,  and  the  Yellowstone,  to 
St.  Louis. 

Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  forward  his  peltries  by 
the  same  route,  under  the  especial  care  of  Mr.  Cerre.  By  way 
of  escort,  he  would  accompany  Cerre  to  the  point  of  cmbarka 
tion  and  then  make  an  autmimal  liunt  in  the  Crow  country. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

rilE  CROW  COUNTRY — A  CROW  PARADISE —HABITS  OF  TIIR  CROWS 
— ANECDOTES  OP  ROSE,  THE  RENEGADE  WHITE  MAN — HIS  FKillTS 
WITH  THE  BLACKFEET — HIS  ELEVATION— HIS  DEATH— ARAroO- 
ISH,  THE  CROW  CHIEF — HIS  EAGLE — ADVENTURE  OF  ROBERT 
CAMPBELL — HONOR  AMONG   CROWS. 

Before  we  accompany  Captain  Bonneville  into  the  Crow 
country,  we  will  impart  a  few  facts  about  this  wild  region, 
and  the  wild  people  who  inhabit  it.  We  are  not  aware  of  the 
precise  boundaries,  if  there  are  any,  of  the  country  claimed  by 
the  Crows;  it  appears  to  extend  from  the  Black  Hills  to  the 
Eocky  Mountains,  including  a  part  of  their  lofty  rangers,  and 
embracing  many  of  the  plains  and  valleys  watered  by  the 
Wind  River,  the  Yellowstone,  the  Powder  River,  the  Little 
Missouri,  and  the  Nebraska.  The  country  varies  in  soil  and 
climate;  there  are  vast  plains  of  sand  and  clay,  studded  with 
large  red  sand-hills;  other  parts  are  mountainous  and  pictu- 
resque ;  it  possesses  warm  springs,  and  coal  mines,  and  abounds 
with  game. 

But  let  us  give  the  account  of  the  country  as  rendered  by 
Arapooisli,  a  Crow  chief,  to  Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company. 

"The  Crow  country,"  said  he,  "is  a  good  country.  The 
Great  Spirit  has  put  it  exactly  in  the  right  place;  while  you 
are  in  it  you  fare  well;  whenever  you  go  out  of  it,  whichever 
way  you  travel,  you  fare  woi'se. 

"  If  yoTi  go  to  the  south  you  have  to  wander  over  great 
barren  plains ;  the  water  is  warm  and  bad,  and  you  meet  the 
fever  and  ague. 

"To  the  noi-th  it  is  cold;  the  winters  are  long  and  bitter, 


136         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

with  no  grass ;  you  cannot  keep  horses  there,  but  must  travel 
Avith  dogs.     What  is  a  country  without  horses? 

' '  On  the  Columbia  they  are  poor  and  dirty,  paddle  about  in 
canoes,  and  eat  fish.  Their  teeth  are  worn  out;  they  are  al- 
wtiys  taking  fish-bones  out  of  their  mouths.     Fish  is  poor  food. 

' '  To  the  east,  they  dwell  in  villages ;  they  live  well ;  but  they 
drink  the  muddy  water  of  the  Missouri  —  that  is  bad.  A 
Crow's  dog  would  not  drink  such  water. 

"About  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  is  a  fine  country;  good 
water ;  good  grass ;  plenty  of  bufiialo.  In  summer,  it  is  almost 
as  good  as  the  Crow  country;  but  in  winter  it  is  cold;  the 
grass  is  gone ;  and  there  is  no  salt  weed  for  the  horses. 

"The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right  place.  It  has 
snowy  mountains  and  sunny  plains;  all  kinds  of  climates 
and  good  iliiiigvj  for  every  season.  When  the  suixuner  heats 
scorch  the  praii'ies,  you  can  draw  up  under  the  mountains) 
where  the  air  is  sweet  and  cool,  the  grass  fresh,  and  the  bright 
streams  come  tumbling  out  of  the  snow-banks.  There  you 
can  hunt  the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  when  their  skins 
are  fit  for  dressing;  there  you  wUl  find  plenty  of  white  bears 
and  mountain  sheep. 

"  In  the  autumn,  when  your  horses  are  fat  and  strong  from 
the  mountain  pastures,  you  can  go  down  into  the  plains  and 
hunt  the  buffalo,  or  trap  beaver  on  the  streams.  And  when 
winter  comes  on,  you  can  take  shelter  in  the  woody  bottoms 
along  the  rivers ;  there  you  will  find  buffalo  meat  for  your- 
selves, and  cotton- wood  bark  for  your  horses;  or  you  may 
winter  in  the  Wind  River  vaUey,  where  there  is  salt  weed  in 
abundance. 

"The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right  place.  Every- 
thing good  is  to  be  found  there.  There  is  no  country  like  the 
Crow  country." 

Such  is  the  eulogium  on  his  country  by  Arapooish. 

We  have  had  repeated  occasions  to  speak  of  the  restless  and 
predatory  habits  of  the  Crows.  They  can  muster  fifteen  hun- 
dred fighting  men ;  but  their  incessant  wars  with  the  Black- 
feet,  and  their  vagabond,  predatory  habits,  are  gradually 
wearing  them  out. 

In  a  recent  work,  we  related  the  circumstance  of  a  white 
man  named  Rose,  an  outlaw,  and  a  designing  vagabond,  who 
acted  as  guide  and  interpreter  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  on 
their  journey  across  the  mountains  to  Astoria,  who  came  near 
betraying  them  into  the  hands  of  the  Crows,  and  who   re- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         i:;7 

raained  amonp;  the  tribe,  marrying  one  of  their  Avomen,  and 
adopting  their  congenial  liabits.*  A  few  anecdotes  of  the  sub- 
sequent fortunes  of  that  renegade  may  not  be  uninteresting, 
especially  as  they  are  comiected  with  the  fortunes  of  the 
tribe. 

Rose  was  powerful  in  frame  and  fearless  in  spirit;  and  soon 
by  his  daring  deeds  took  his  rank  among  the  first  braves  of 
the  tribe.  He  aspired  to  command,  and  knew  it  was  only  to 
be  attained  by  desperate  exploits.  He  distinguished  hunself  in 
repeated  actions  with  Blackfeet.  On  one  occasion,  a  band  of 
those  savages  had  fortified  themselves  within  a  breastwork, 
and  could  not  be  harmed.  Rose  proposed  to  storm  the  work, 
"Who  will  take  the  lead?"  was  the  demand.  "Il"  cried  he: 
and  putting  himself  at  their  head,  rushed  forward.  The  first 
Blackioot  that  opposed  him  he  shot  down  with  hi-s  rifle,  and 
snatching  up  the  war-club  of  his  victim  killed  four  others 
within  the  fort.  The  victory  was  complete,  and  Rose  returned 
to  the  Crow  village  covered  with  glory,  and  bearing  five  Black- 
foot  scalps,  to  be  erected  as  a  trophy  before  his  lodge.  From 
this  time  he  was  known  among  the  Crows  by  the  name 
of  Che-ku-kaats,  or  "the  man  who  killed  five."  He  became 
chief  of  the  village,  or  rather  band,  and  for  a  time  was  the 
popular  idol.  His  popularity  soon  awakened  envy  among  the 
native  braves;  he  was  a  stranger,  an  intmider;  a  Avhite  man. 
A  party  seceded  from  his  command.  Feuds  and  civil  wars 
succeeded  that  lasted  for  two  or  three  years,  until  Rose,  hav- 
ing contrived  to  set  his  adopted  brethren  by  the  ears,  left 
them,  and  went  down  the  Missouri  in  1!^23.  Here  he  fell  in 
with  one  of  the  earhest  trapping  expeditions  sent  by  General 
Ashley  across  the  mountains.  It  Avas  conducted  by  Smith, 
Fitzpatrick,  and  Sublette.  Rose  enlisted  with  them  os  guide 
and  interpreter.  When  he  got  them  among  the  Crows,  he 
;was  exceedingly  generous  with  their  goods;  making  presents 
to  the  braves  of  his  adopted  tribe,  as  became  a  high-minded 
chief. 

This  doubtless,  helped  to  revive  his  populai-ity.  In  that  ex- 
pedition, Smith  and  Fitzpatrick  wore  robbed  of  their  horses  in 
Green  River  valley;  the  place  where  the  robbery  took  place 
still  bears  the  name  of  Horse  Creek.  We  are  not  informed 
whether  the  horses  were  stolen  thr(Migh  the  instigation  and 
management  of  Rose;  it  is  not  improbable,  for  such  was  the 

*  See  Astoria. 


138         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

perfidy  he  had  intended  to  pn^ctise  on  a  former  occasion 
toward  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  part}-. 

The  last  anecdote  we  have  of  Rose  is  from  an  Indian  trader. 
When  General  Atkinson  made  his  mihtary  expedition  up  the 
Missouri,  in  1825,  to  protect  the  fur  trade,  he  held  a  conference 
with  the  Crow  nation,  at  which  Eose  figured  as  Indian  dig- 
nitary and  Crow  interpreter.  The  military  were  stationed  at 
some  little  distance  from  the  scene  of  the  "big  talk."  While 
the  general  and  the  chiefs  were  smoking  pipes  and  making 
speeches,  the  officers,  supposing  all  was  friendly,  left  the 
troops  and  drew  near  the  scene  of  ceremonial.  Some  of  the 
more  knowing  Crows,  perceiving  this,  stole  quietly  to  the 
camp,  and,  unobserved,  contrived  to  stop  the  touch-holes  of 
the  field  pieces  with  dirt.  Shortly  after  a  misunderstanding 
occurred  in  the  conference ;  some  of  the  Indians  knowing  the 
cannon  to  be  useless,  became  insolent.  A  tumult  arose.  In 
the  confusion  Colonel  O'Fallan  snapped  a  pistol  in  the  face  of 
a  brave,  and  knocked  him  down  with  the  butt  end.  The 
Crows  were  all  in  a  fury.  A  chance  medley  fight  was  on  the 
point  of  taking  place,  when  Rose,  his  natural  sympathies  as  a 
white  man  suddenly  recurring,  broke  the  stock  of  his  fusee 
over  the  head  of  a  Crow  warrior,  and  laid  so  vigorously  about 
him  with  the  baiTcl,  that  he  soon  put  the  whole  throng  to 
flight.  Luckily,  as  no  lives  had  been  lost,  this  sturdy  rib- 
roasting  calmed  the  fury  of  the  Crows,  and  the  tmnult  ended 
without  serious  consequences. 

What  was  the  ultimate  fate  of  this  vagabond  hero  is  not 
distinctly  known.  Some  report  him  to  have  fallen  a  victim  to 
disease,  brought  on  by  his  licentious  life;  others  assert  that  he 
was  murdered  in  a  feud  among  the  Crows.  After  all,  his  resi- 
dence among  these  savages,  and  the  influence  he  acquired  over 
them  had,  for  a  time,  some  beneficial  effects.  He  is  said,  not 
merely  to  have  rendered  them  more  formidable  to  the  Black- 
feet,  but  to  have  opened  their  eyes  to  the  policy  of  cultivating 
the  friendship  of  the  white  men. 

After  Rose's  death,  his  policy  continued  to  be  cultivated, 
with  indifferent  success,  by  Arapooish,  the  chief  already  men- 
tioned, who  had  been  his  great  friend,  and  whose  character  he 
had  contributed  to  develope.  This  sagacious  chief  endeavored, 
on  every  occasion,  to  restrain  the  predatory  propensities  of  his 
tribe  when  directed  against  the  white  men.  "If  we  keep 
friends  with  them,"  said  he,  "we  have  nothing  to  fear  from 
the  Blackfeet,  and  can  rule  the  mountains."    Arapooish  pre- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         139 

tended  to  be  a  {?reat  "medicine  man;''  a  character  amonj?  the 
Indians  which  is  a  compound  of  i)riest,  doctor,  prophet,  and 
conjurer.  He  carried  about  with  him  a  tame  eagle,  as  his 
"medicine,"  or  familiar.  With  the  white  men,  he  acknowl- 
edged that  this  was  all  charlatanism ;  but  said  it  was  necessary, 
to  give  him  weight  and  influence  among  his  people.      , 

Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  from  whom  we  have  most  of  these 
facts,  in  the  course  of  one  of  his  trapping  expeditions,  was 
quartered  in  the  village  of  Arapooish,  and  a  guest  in  the  lodge 
of  the  chieftain.  He  had  collected  a  large  quantity  of  furs, 
and,  fearful  of  being  plundered,  deposited  but  a  part  in  the 
lodge  of  the  chief ;  the  rest  he  buried  in  a  cache.  One  night, 
Arapooish  came  into  the  lodge  with  a  cloudy  brow,  and  seated 
himself  for  a  time  without  saying  a  word.  At  length,  turning 
to  Campbell,  "You  have  more  furs  with  you,"  said  he,  "  than 
you  have  brought  into  my  lodge?" 

"I  have,"  replied  Campbell. 

"Where  are  they?" 

Campbell  knew  the  uselessness  of  any  prevarication  with  an 
Indian;  and  the  importance  of  complete  frankness.  He  de- 
scribed the  exact  place  where  he  had  concealed  his  peltries. 

"'Tis  well,"  replied  Arapooish;  "you  speak  straight.  It  is 
just  as  you  say.  But  your  cache  has  been  robbed.  Go  and 
see  how  many  skins  have  been  taken  from  it." 

Campbell  examined  the  cache,  and  estimated  his  loss  to  be 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  beaver  skins.  Arapooish  now 
summqned  a"  meeting  of  the  village.  He  bitterly  reproached 
his  people  for  robbing  a  stranger  who  had  confided  to  their 
honor;  and  commanded  that  whoever  had  taken  the  skins, 
should  bring  them  back ;  declaring  that,  as  Campbell  was  his 
guest  and  inmate  of  his  lodge,  he  woidd  not  eat  nor  drink  until 
every  skin  was  restored  to  him. 

The  meeting  broke  up,  and  every  one  dispersed.  Arapooish 
now  charged  Campbell  to  give  neither  reward  nor  thanks  to 
any  one  who  should  bring  in  the  beaver  skins,  but  to  keep 
count  as  they  were  delivered. 

In  a  little  while  the  skins  began  to  make  their  appearance,  a 
few  at  a  time;  they  were  laid  down  in  the  lodge,  and  those 
who  brought  them  departed  without  saying  a  word.  The  day 
passed  away.  Arapooish  sat  in  one  corner  of  his  lodge, 
wrapped  up  in  his  robe,  scarcely  moving  a  muscle  of  his  coun- 
tenance. When  night  arrived,  he  demanded  if  aU  the  skins  had 
been  brought  in.     Above  a  hundred  had  been  given  up,  and 


140         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

Campbell  expressed  himself  contented.  Not  so  the  Crow  chief- 
tain. He  fasted  all  that  night,  nor  tasted  a  drop  of  water.  In 
the  morning  some  more  skins  were  brought  in,  and  continued 
to  come,  one  and  two  at  a  time,  throughout  the  day ;  until  but 
a  few  were  wanting  to  make  the  number  complete.  Campbell 
^vas  now  anxious  to  put  an  end  to  this  fasting  of  the  old  chief, 
and  again  declared  that  he  was  perfectly  satisfied.  Arapooish 
demanded  what  number  of  skins  were  yet  wanting.  On  being 
told,  he  whispered  to  some  of  his  people,  who  disappeared. 
After  a  time  the  number  were  brought  in,  though  it  was  evi- 
dent they  were  not  any  of  the  skins  that  had  been  stolen,  but 
others  gleaned  in  the  village. 

"  Is  all  right  now?"  demanded  Arapooish. 

"All  is  right,"  re phed  Campbell. 

"  Good !     Now  bring  me  meat  and  drink !" 

When  they  were  alone  together,  Arapooish  had  a  conversa- 
tion with  his  guest. 

' '  When  you  come  another  time  among  the  Crows, "  said  he, 
"  don't  hide  your  goods;  trust  to  them  and  they  will  not  wrong 
you.  Put  your  goods  in  the  lodge  of  a  chief,  and  they  are 
sacred;  hide  them  in  a  cache,  and  any  one  who  finds  will  steal 
them.  My  people  have  now  given  up  your  goods  for  my  sake ; 
but  there  are  some  foohsh  young  men  in  the  village  who  may 
be  disposed  to  be  troublesome.  Don't  hnger,  therefore,  but 
pack  your  horses  and  be  off." 

Campbell  took  his  advice,  and  made  his  way  safely  out  of  the 
Crow  country.  He  has  ever  since  maintained  that  the  Crows 
are  not  so  black  as  they  are  painted.  "Trust  to  their  honor," 
says  he,  "and  you  are  safe;  trust  to  their  honesty,  and  they 
will  steal  the  hair  off  your  head." 

Having  given  these  few  prehminary  particulars,  we  will  re- 
sume the  coui'se  of  our  narrative. 


ADVEj^TURES  of  captain  BONNEVILLE.         HI 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY — POPO  AGIE— ITS  COURSE 
— THE  RIVERS  INTO  WHICH  IT  RUNS— SCENERY  OF  THE  BLUFFS 
— THE  GREAT  TAR  SPRING— VOLCANIC  TRACTS  IN  THE  CROW 
COUNTRY — BURNING  MOUNTAIN  OF  POWDER  RIVER— SULPHUR 
SPRINGS— HIDDEN  FIRES -COLTER'S  HELL— WIND  RIVER -CAMP- 
BELL'S PARTY  —  FITZPATRICK  AND  HIS  TRAPPERS  —  CAPTAIN 
STEWART,  AN  AMATEUR  TRAVELLER  —  NATHANIEL  WYETH  — 
ANECDOTES  OF  HIS  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  FAR  WEST— DISASTER 
OF  CAMPBELL'S  PARTY -A  UNION  OF  BANDS — THE  BAD  PASS — 
THE  RAPIDS— DEPARTURE  OF  FITZPATRICK — EMBARKATION  OP 
PELTRIES— WYETH  AND  HIS  BULL  BOAT — ADVENTURES  OF  CAP- 
TAIN BONNEVILLE  IN  THE  BIGHORN  MOUNTAINS — ADVENTURES 
IN  THE  PLAIN — TRACES  OF  INDIANS — TRAVELLING  PRECAUTIONS 
— DANGERS   OF  M.\£ING  A  SMOKE— THE   RENDEZVOUS. 

On  the  25tli  of  July  Captain  Bonneville  struck  his  tents,  and 
set  out  on  his  route  for  the  Bighorn,  at  the  head  of  a  party  of 
fifty-six  men,  including  those  who  were  to  embark  with  CeiTe. 
Crossing  the  Green  River  valley,  he  proceeded  along  the  south 
point  of  the  Wind  River  range  of  mountains,  and  soon  fell 
upon  the  track  of  Mr.  Robert  Campbell's  party,  which  had  pre- 
ceded him  by  a  day.  This  he  pursued,  until  he  perceived  that 
it  led  down  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water  to  the  southeast. 
As  this  was  different  from  his  proposed  direction,  he  left  it; 
and  turning  to  the  northeast,  soon  cam©  upon  the  Avaters  of  the 
Popo  Agio.  This  stream  takes  its  rise  in  the  Wind  River 
Mountains.  Its  name,  like  most  Indian  names,  is  characteris- 
tic. Popo,  in  the  Crow  language  signifying  head ;  and  Acjie, 
river.  It  is  the  head  of  a  long  river,  extending  from  the  south 
end  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains  in  a  northeast  direction, 
until  it  falls  into  the  Yellowstone.  Its  course  is  generally 
through  plains,  but  is  twice  crossed  by  chains  of  mountains ; 
the  first  called  the  Littlehorn,  the  second  the  Bighorn.  After 
it  has  forced  its  way  through  the  first  chain,  it  is  called  the 
Horn  River.  After  the  second  chain  it  is  called  the  Bighorn 
River.  Its  passage  tliidugli  iJiis  last  chain  is  rougli  and  vio- 
lent; making  repeated  falls,  ami  rushing  down  long  and  furious 


142         ADVENT Ulih'S   OF  CAPTAIN'  BO^'M'JVILLhJ. 

rapids,  which  threaten  destruction  to  the  navigator ;  though  a 
hardy  trapper  is  said  to  have  shot  down  them  in  a  canoe.  At 
the  foot  of  these  rapids,  is  the  head  of  navigation,  where  it  was 
the  intention  of  the  parties  to  construct  boats,  and  embark. 

Proceeding  down  along  the  Popo  Agie,  Captain  Bonneville 
came  again  in  full  view  of  the  "Bluffs,"  as  they  are  called,  ex- 
tending from  the  base  of  tiie  Wind  River  Mountains  far  away 
to  the  east,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  confusion  of  hills  and 
cUffs  of  red  sandstone,  some  peaked  and  angular,  some  round, 
some  broken  into  crags  and  precipices,  and  piled  up  in  fantas- 
tic masses ;  but  all  naked  and  sterile.  There  appeared  to  be  no 
soil  favorable  to  vegetation,  nothing  but  coarse  gravel;  yet, 
over  all  this  isolated,  barren  landscape,  were  diffused  such  at- 
mospherical tints  and  hues,  as  to  blend  the  whole  into  har- 
mony and  beauty. 

In  this  neighborhood,  the  captain  made  search  for  "the 
great  Tar  Spring,"  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  mountains;  the 
medicinal  properties  of  which,  he  had  heard  extravagantly 
lauded  by  the  trappers.  After  a  toilsome  search,  he  found  it 
at  the  foot  of  a  sand-bluff,  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Wind 
Eiver  Mountains;  where  it  exuded  in  a  small  stream  of  the 
color  and  consistency  of  tar.  The  men  immediately  hastened 
to  collect  a  quantity  of  it,  to  use  as  an  ointment  for  the  galled 
backs  of  their  horses,  and  as  a  balsam  for  their  own  pains  and 
aches.  From  the  description  given  of  it,  it  is  evidently  the 
bituminous  oil,  called  petroleum  or  naphtha,  which  forms  a 
principal  ingredient  in  the  potent  medicine  called  British  Oil. 
It  is  found  in  various  parts  of  Europe  and  Asia,  in  several  of 
the  West  India  islands,  and  in  some  places  of  the  United 
States.  In  the  State  of  New  York,  it  is  called  Seneca  Oil,  from 
being  found  near  the  Seneca  lake. 

The  Crow  country  has  other  natural  curiosities,  which  are 
held  in  superstitious  awe  by  the  Indians,  and  considered  great 
marvels  by  the  trappers.  Such  is  the  Burning  Mountain,  on 
Powder  Eiver,  abounding  with  anthracite  coal.  Hei-e  the 
earth  is  hot  and  cracked ;  in  many  places  emitting  smoke  and 
sulphurous  vapors,  as  if  covering  concealed  fires.  A  volcanic 
tract  of  similar  character  is  found  on  Stinking  River,  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  the  Bighorn,  which  takes  its  unhappy  name  from 
the  odor  derived  from  sulphurous  springs  and  streams.  This 
last  mentioned  place  was  first  discovered  by  Colter,  a  hunter 
belonging  to  Lewis  and  Clarke's  exploring  party,  who  came 
upon  it  in  the  course  of  his  lonely  wanderings,  and  gave  such 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         I4;j 

an  account  of  its  gloomy  terrors,  its  hidden  fires,  smoking  pits, 
noxious  streams,  and  the  all-pervading  "smell  of  brimstone," 
that  it  received,  and  has  ever  since  retained  among  trappers, 
the  name  of  "Colter's  Hell!" 

Resuming  his  descent  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Popo  Agie, 
Captain  Bonneville  soon  reached  the  plains;  where  he  found 
several  large  streams  entering  from  the  west.  Among  these 
was  Wind  River,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  mountains 
among  which  it  takes  its  rise.  This  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant streams  of  the  Crow  cotmtry.  The  river  being  much 
swollen.  Captain  Bonneville  halted  at  its  mouth,  and  sent  out 
scouts  to  look  for  a  fording  place.  While  thus  encamped,  he 
beheld  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  a  long  line  of  horsemen 
descending  the  slope  of  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Popo  Agie.  His  first  idea  was,  that  they  were  Indians ;  he 
soon  discovered,  however,  that  they  were  white  men,  and,  by 
the  long  line  of  pack-horses,  ascertained  them  to  be  the  con- 
voy of  Campbell,  which,  having  descended  the  Sweet  Water, 
was  now  on  its  way  to  the  Horn  River. 

The  two  parties  came  together  two  or  three  days  afterward, 
on  the  4th  of  August,  after  having  passed  through  the  gap  of 
the  Littlehom  Mountain.  In  company  with  Campell's  convoy, 
was  a  trapping  party  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  headed 
by  Fitzpatrick;  who,  after  Campbell's  embarkation  on  the 
Bighorn,  was  to  take  charge  of  all  the  horses,  and  proceed  on 
a  trapping  campaign.  There  were,  moreover,  two  chance 
companions  in  the  rival  camp.  One  was  Captain  Stewart,  of 
the  British  army,  a  gentleman  of  noble  connections,  who  was 
amusing  himself  by  a  wandering  tour  in  the  Far  West;  in  the 
course  of  which,  he  had  lived  in  hunter's  style ;  accompanying 
various  bands  of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians;  and  manifest- 
ing that  relish  for  the  wilderness  that  belongs  to  men  of  game 
spirit. 

The  other  casual  inmate  of  Mr.  Campbell's  camp  was  Mr. 
Nathaniel  Wyeth;  the  self-same  leader  of  the  band  of  New 
England  salmon  fishers,  with  whom  we  parted  company  in  the 
valley  of  Pierre's  Hole,  after  the  battle  with  the  Blackfeet.  A 
few  days  after  that  affair,  he  again  set  out  from  the  rendez- 
vous in  company  with  Milton  Sublette  and  liis  brigade  of  trap- 
pers. On  his  march,  he  visited  the  battle  groimd,  niid  pene- 
trated to  the  deserted  fort  of  the  Blackfeet  in  the  midst  of  the 
wood.  It  was  a  dismal  scene.  The  fort  Avas  streAved  with  the 
paouldering  bodies  of  the  slain ;  wliile  vultures  soared  aloft,  or 


144         ADFJ^WTUllES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONJsEVILLE. 

sat  brooding  on  the  trees  around;  and  Indian  dogs  howled 
about  the  place,  as  if  bewailing  the  death  of  their  masters. 
Wyeth  travelled  for  a  considerable  distance  to  the  southwest, 
in  company  with  Milton  Sublette,  when  they  separated;  and 
the  former,  with  eleven  men,  the  remnant  of  his  band,  pushed 
on  for  Snake  River;  kept  down  the  course  of  that  eventful 
stream ;  traversed  the  Blue  Mountains,  trapping  beaver  occa- 
sionally by  the  way,  and  finally,  after  hardships  of  all  kinds, 
arrived  on  the  29th  of  October,  at  Vancouver,  on  the  Colum- 
bia, the  main  factory  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

He  experienced  hospitable  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
agents  of  that  company ;  but  his  men,  heartily  tired  of  wan- 
dering in  the  wilderness,  or  tempted  by  other  prospects,  re- 
fused, for  the  most  part,  to  continue  any  longer  in  his  service. 
Some  set  off  for  the  Sandwich  Islands ;  some  entered  into  other 
employ.  Wyeth  found,  too,  that  a  great  part  of  the  goods  he 
had  brought  with  him  were  unfitted  for  the  Indian  trade ;  in  a 
word,  his  expedition,  undertaken  entirely  on  his  own  resources, 
proved  a  failure.  He  lost  everything  invested  in  it,  but  his 
hopes.  These  were  as  strong  as  ever.  He  took  note  of  every- 
thing, therefore,  that  could  be  of  service  to  him  in  the  further 
prosecution  of  his  project ;  collected  all  the  information  within 
his  reach,  and  then  set  off,  accompanied  by  merely  two  men, 
on  his  return  journey  across  the  continent.  He  had  got  thus 
far  "by  hook  and  by  crook,"  a  mode  in  wliich  a  New  England 
man  can  make  his  way  all  over  the  world,  and  through  all 
kinds  of  difficulties,  and  was  now  bound  for  Boston;  in  fuU 
confidence  of  being  able  to  form  a  company  for  the  salmon 
fishery  and  fur  trade  of  the  Columbia. 

The  partj^  of  Mr.  Campbell  had  met  with  a  disaster  in  the 
course  of  their  route  from  the  Sweet  Water.  Three  or  four  of 
the  men,  who  were  reconnoitring  the  country  in  advance  of  the 
main  body,  were  visited  one  night  in  their  camp,  by  fifteen  or 
twenty  Shoshonies.  Considering  this  tribe  as  perfectly  friend- 
ly, they  received  them  in  the  most  cordial  and  confiding  man- 
ner. In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  man  on  guard  near  the 
horses  fell  sound  asleep ;  upon  wliich  a  Shoshonie  shot  him  in 
the  head,  and  nearly  killed  him.  The  savages  then  made  off 
with  the  horses,  leaving  the  rest  of  the  party  to  find  their  way 
to  the  main  body  on  foot. 

The  rival  companies  of  Captain  Bonneville  a7id  Mr.  Camp- 
bell, thus  fortuitously  brought  together,  now  prosecuted  their 
journey  in  gi-eat  good  fellowship;   forming  a  joint  camp  of 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIS  BONNEVILLE.         145 

about  a  hundred  men.  The  captain,  however,  began  to  enter- 
tain doubts  that  Fitzpatrick  and  his  trappers,  who  kept  pro- 
found silence  as  to  their  future  movements,  intended  to  hunt 
the  same  grounds  which  he  had  selected  for  his  autumnal  cam- 
paign ;  which  lay  to  the  west  of  the  Horn  River,  on  its  tributiiry 
streams.  In  the  course  of  liis  march,  therefore,  he  secretly  de- 
tached a  small  party  of  trappers,  to  make  their  way  to  those 
hunting  grounds,  while  he  continued  on  Avith  the  main  body ; 
appointing  a  rendezvous  at  the  next  full  moon,  about  the  2Sth 
of  August,  at  a  place  called  the  Medicine  Lodge. 

On  reaching  the  second  chain,  called  the  Bighorn  Monnt':i_is, 
where  the  river  forced  its  impetuous  way  through  a  precipi- 
tous defile,  with  cascades  and  rapids,  the  travellers  were 
obliged  to  leave  its  banks,  and  traverse  the  mounts 'as  by  a 
rugged  and  frightful  route  emphatically  called  the  "  Bad  Pass." 
Descending  the  opposite  side,  they  again  made  for  the  river 
banks;  and  about  the  middle  of  August,  reached  the  point 
below  the  rapids,  where  the  river  becomes  navigable  for  boats. 
Here  Captain  BonneviUe  detached  a  second  party  of  trappers, 
consisting  of  ten  men,  to  seek  and  join  those  whom  he  had  de- 
tached while  on  the  route,  appointing  for  them  the  same  ren- 
dezvous (at  the  Medicine  Lodge),  on  the  28th  of  August. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  construct  "bull  boats,"  as  they 
are  technically  called;  alight,  fragile  kind  of  bark,  character- 
istic of  the  expedients  and  inventions  of  the  A^-ildernoss ;  being 
formed  of  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  frames.  They  are  some- 
times, also,  called  skin  boats.  Wyeth  Avas  the  first  ready;  and, 
Avith  his  usual  promptness  and  hardiliood  launched  his  frail 
bark  singly,  on  this  wild  and  hazardous  voyage,  down  an 
almost  interminable  succession  of  rivera,  winding  through 
countries  teeming  with  savage  hordes.  Milton  SubU'tte.  his 
former  fellow  traveller,  and  his  companion  in  the  battlf^  scc'.u's 
of  Pierre's  Hole,  took  passage  in  his  boat,  llis  (^rew  consisted 
of  two  white  men,  and  two  Indians.  We  shall  hear  fui-ther  of 
Wyeth,  and  his  wild  voyage  in  the  course  of  our  wanderings 
about  the  Far  West. 

The  remaining  parties  soon  completed  their  several  amia- 
ments.  That  of  Captain  Bonneville  was  composed  of  three  bull 
boats,  in  wliich  he  embarked  all  his  peltries,  giving  them  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Cerrd,  with  a  party  of  thirty -six  men.  Mr.  Camp- 
bell took  command  of  his  own  boats,  and  the  little  squadrons 
were  soon  gliding  down  the  bright  current  of  the  Bighorn. 

The  secret  precautions  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  taken 


146         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

to  throw  his  men  first  into  the  trapping  ground  west  of  the 
Bighorn,  were,  probably,  superfluous.  It  did  not  appear  that 
Fitzj)atrick  had  intended  to  hunt  in  that  direction.  The  mo- 
ment Mr.  Campbell  and  his  men  embarked  with  the  peltries 
Fitzpatrick  took  charge  of  all  the  horses,  amounting  to  above 
a  hundred,  and  struck  off  to  the  east,  to  trap  upon  Littlehorn, 
Powder  and  Tongue  Rivers.  He  was  accompanied  by  Captain 
Stewart,  who  was  desirous  of  having  a  range  about  the  Crow 
country.  Of  the  adventures  they  met  with  in  that  region  of 
vagabonds  and  horse  stealers,  we  shall  have  something  to  re- 
late hereafter. 

Captain  Bonneville  being  now  left  to  prosecute  his  trapping 
campaign  without  rivalry,  set  out,  on  the  17th  of  August,  for 
the  rendezvous  at  Medicine  Lodge.  He  had  but  four  men  re- 
maining with  him,  and  forty-six  horses  to  take  care  of;  with 
these  he  had  to  make  his  way  over  mountain  and  plain,  through 
a  marauding,  horse-stealing  region,  full  of  peril  for  a  numerous 
cavalcade  so  slightly  manned.  He  addressed  himself  to  his 
difRcidt  journey,  however,  with  his  usual  alacrity  of  spirit. 

In  the  afternoon  of  his  first  day's  journey,  on  drawmg  near 
to  the  Bighorn  Mountain,  on  the  summit  of  which  he  intended 
to  encamp  for  the  night,  he  observed,  to  his  disquiet,  a  cloiid 
of  smoke  rising  from  its  base.  He  came  to  a  halt,  and  watched 
it  anxiously.  It  was  very  irregular ;  sometimes  it  would  almost 
die  away ;  and  then  would  mount  up  in  heavy  volumes.  There 
was,  apparently,  a  large  party  encamped  there ;  probably,  some 
ruffian  horde  of  Blackfeet.  At  any  rate,  it  would  not  do  for  so 
small  a  number  of  men,  with  so  numerous  a  cavalcade,  to  ven- 
ture within  sight  of  any  wandering  tribe.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  companions,  therefore,  avoided  this  dangerous 
neighborhood;  and,  proceeding  with  extreme  caution,  reached 
the  summit  of  the  mountain,  apparently  without  being  discov- 
ered. Here  they  found  a  deserted  Blackfoot  fort,  in  which 
they  ensconced  themselves ;  disposed  of  everything  as  securely 
as  possible,  and  passed  the  night  without  molestation.  Early 
the  next  morning  they  descended  the  south  side  of  the  moun- 
tain into  the  great  plain  extending  between  it  and  the  Little- 
horn  range.  Here  they  soon  came  upon  numerous  footprints, 
and  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes;  by  whi<;h  they  knew  there 
must  be  Indians  not  far  off.  Captain  Bonneville  novv-  becran  to 
feel  solicitude  about  the  two  small  parties  of  trappers  which  he 
had  detached,  lest  the  Indians  should  have  come  upon  them 
before  they  had  united  their  forces.    But  he  felt  still  more 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         147 

solicitude  about  his  own  party ;  for  it  was  hardly  to  be  expectec^ 
he  could  traverse  these  naked  plains  undiscovered,  when  In- 
dians were  abroad;  and  should  he  be  discovered,  his  chance 
would  be  a  desperate  one.  Everytliing  now  depended  upon 
the  greatest  circumspection.  It  was  dangerous  to  discharge  a 
gun  or  light  a  fire,  or  make  the  least  noise,  where  such  quick- 
eared  and  quick-sighted  enemies  were  at  hand.  In  the  course 
of  the  day  they  saw  indubitable  signs  that  the  buffalo  had  been 
roaming  there  in  gi-eat  numbers,  and  had  recently  been  fright- 
ened away.  That  night  they  encamped  with  the  greatest  care; 
and  threw  up  a  strong  breastwork  for  their  protection. 

For  the  two  succeeding  days  they  pressed  forward  rapidly, 
but  cautiously,  across  the  great  plain;  fording  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Horn  River;  encamping  one  night  among 
thickets;  the  next,  on  an  island;  meeting,  repeatedly,  with 
traces  of  Indians;  and  now  and  then,  in  passing  through  a 
defile  experiencing  alarms  that  induced  them  to  cock  their 
rifles. 

On  the  last  day  of  their  march  hunger  got  the  better  of  their 
caution,  and  they  shot  a  fine  buffalo  bull  at  the  risk  of  being 
betrayed  by  the  report.  They  did  not  halt  to  make  a  meal, 
but  carried  the  meat  on  Avith  them  to  the  place  of  rendezvous, 
the  Medicine  Lodge,  whei'e  they  arrived  safely,  in  the  evening, 
celebrated  their  arrival  by  a  hearty  supper. 

The  next  morning  they  ei-eoted  a  strong  pen  for  the  horses, 
and  a  fortress  of  logs  for  themselves;  amd  continued  to  observe 
the  greatest  caution.  Their  cooking  was  all  done  at  mid-day, 
when  the  fire  makes  no  glare,  and  a  moderate  smoke  cannot 
be  perceived  at  any  great  distance.  In  the  morning  and  the 
evening  when  the  wind  is  lulled,  the  smoke  rises  perpendicu- 
larly in  a  blue  column,  or  floats  in  light  clouds  above  the  tree- 
tops,  and  can  be  discovered  from  afar. 

In  this  way  the  little  party  remained  for  several  days,  cau- 
tiously encamped,  until,  on  the  29th  of  August,  the  two  detach- 
ments they  had  been  expecting,  arrived  together  at  the  ren- 
dezvous. They,  as  usual,  hod  tlioir  several  tales  of  adventures 
to  relate  to  the  captain,  which  we  will  furnish  to  the  reader  ui 
the  next  chapter. 


148         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

ADVENTURES  OF  THE  PARTY  OF  TEN — THE  BALAAMITE  MULE— A 
DEAD  POINT— THE  MYSTERIOUS  ELKS —A  NIGHT  ATTACK— ARE- 
TREAT— TRAVELLING  UNDER  AN  ALARM — A  JOYFUL  MEETING- 
ADVENTURES  OF  THE  OTHER  PARTY — A  DECOY  ELK — RETREAT 
TO  AN  ISLAND— A  SAVAGE  DANCE  OF  TRIUMPH — ARRIVAL  AT 
WIND  RIVER. 

The  adventures  of  the  detachment  of  ten  are  the  first  in 
order.  Tliese  trappers,  when  they  separated  from  Captain 
Bonneville  at  the  place  where  the  furs  were  embarked,  jDro 
ceeded  to  the  foot  of  the  Bighorn  Mountain,  and  having  en- 
camped, one  of  ttiem  mounted  his  mule  and  Avent  out  to  set  Ms 
trap  in  a  neighboring  stream.  He  had  not  proceeded  far  Avhen 
his  steed  came  to  a  full  stop.  The  trapper  kicked  and  cud- 
gelled, but  to  every  blow  and  tick  the  mule  sno'/ted  and  kicked 
up,  but  stm  refused  to  budge  an  inch.  The  rider  now  cast  his 
eyes  warily  around  in  search  oi  some  cause  for  this  demur, 
when,  to  his  dismay,  he  discovered  an  Indian  fort  within  gun- 
shot distance,  lowering  through  the  twilight.  In  a  twinklmg 
he  wheeled  about ;  his  mule  now  seemed  as  eager  to  get  on  as 
himself,  and  in  a  few  moments  brought  him,  clattering  with 
his  traps,  among  his  comrades.  He  was  jeered  at  for  his 
alacrity  in  retreating;  his  report  was  treated  as  a  false  alarm; 
his  brother  trappers  contented  themselves  with  reconnoitring 
the  fort  at  a  distance,  and  pronounced  that  it  was  deserted. 

As  night  set  in,  the  usual  precaution,  enjoined  by  Captain 
Bonneville  on  his  men  was  observed.  The  horses  were  brought 
in  and  tied,  and  a  guard  stationed  over  them.  This  done,  the 
men  wrapped  themselves  in  their  blankets,  stretched  them- 
selves before  the  fire,  and  being  fatigued  with  a  long  day's 
march,  and  gorged  with  a  hearty  supper,  were  soon  in  a  pro- 
found sleep. 

The  camp  fires  gradually  died  away ;  all  was  dark  and  silent ; 
the  sentinel  stationed  to  watch  the  horses  had  marched  as  far, 
and  supped  as  heartily  as  any  of  his  companions,  and  while 
they  snored,  he  began  to  nod  at  his  post.  After  a  time,  a  low 
trampling  noise  reached  his  ear.     He  half  opened  his  closing 


ADVE2JTURES  OF  CAPTAIX  BONIJEVILLK.         J 49 

eyes,  and  beheld  two  or  throe  elks  moving  about  the  lodgers, 
picking,  and  smelling,  and  gi-azing  here  and  there.  The  sight 
of  elk  within  the  purUeus  of  the  camp  caused  some  little  sur- 
prise ;  but,  iiaving  had  his  supper,  he  cared  not  for  elk  meat, 
and,  suffering  them  to  graze  about  umuolested,  soon  relapsed 
into  a  doze. 

Suddenly,  before  daybreak,  a  discharge  of  firearms,  and  a 
struggle  and  tramp  of  hoi-ses,  made  every  one  start  to  his  feet. 
The  fii"st  move  was  to  secure  the  horses.  Some  were  gone; 
others  were  struggling,  and  kicking,  and  trembhng,  for  there 
■was  a  horrible  uproar  of  whoops,  and  yells,  and  firearms. 
Several  trappers  stole  qmetly  from  the  camp,  and  succeeded  in 
driving  m  the  horses  whick  had  broken  away ;  the  rest  were 
tethered  still  more  strongly.  A  breastwork  was  thrown  up  of 
saddles,  baggage,  and  camp  furniture,  and  all  hands  waited 
anxiously  for  daylight.  The  Indians,  in  the  meantime,  col- 
lected on  a  neighboring  height,  kept  up  the  most  horrible  cla- 
mor, in  hopes  of  striking  a  jmnic  into  the  camp,  or  frightening 
off  the  horses.  When  the  day  dawned,  the  trappers  attacked 
them  briskly  and  drove  them  to  some  distance.  A  desultory 
fire  was  kept  up  for  an  hour,  when  the  Indians,  seeing  nothing 
was  to  be  gained,  gave  uj  the  contest  and  retired.  They 
proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet,  who,  while  in  search  of 
the  Crow  tribe,  had  fallen  upon  the  trail  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville on  the  Popo  Agie,  and  dogged  him  to  the  Bighorn ;  but 
had  been  completely  baffled  by  his  vigilance.  They  had  then 
waylaid  the  present  detachment,  and  were  actually  housed  in 
perfect  silence  within  their  fort,  when  the  mule  of  the  trapper 
made  such  a  dead  point. 

The  savages  went  off  uttering  the  wildest  denunciations  of 
hostOity,  mingled  Avith  opprobrious  terms  in  broken  English, 
and  gesticulations  of  the  most  insiUting  kind. 

In  this  melee,  one  white  man  was  wounded,  and  two  horses 
were  killed.  On  preparing  the  morning's  meal,  however,  a 
number  of  cups,  knives,  and  other  articles  were  missing,  which 
had,  doubtless,  been  carried  off  by  the  fictitious  elk,  diu-ing  the 
slumber  of  the  very  sagacious  sentinel. 

As  the  Indians  had  gone  off  in  the  direction  which  the  trap- 
pers had  intended  to  travel,  the  latter  changed  their  route,  and 
pushed  forward  rapidly  through  the  "Bad  Pass. "nor  halted 
until  night;  when,  supp(,>sing  themselves  out  of  the  reach  of 
the  enemy,  they  contented  themselves  Avith  tying  up  their 
horees  and  posting  a  guard.     They  had  scarce  laid  down  to 


150         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

sleep,  when  a  dog  strayed  into  the  canap  with  a  small  pack  of 
moccasins  tied  upon  his  back ;  for  dogs  are  made  to  carry  bur- 
dons  among  the  Indians.  The  sentinel,  more  knowing  than  he 
oT  the  preceding  night,  awoke  his  companions  and  reported  the 
circumstance.  It  was  evident  that  Indians  were  at  hand.  Ail 
were  instantly  at  work ;  a  strong  pen  was  soon  constructed  for 
the  horses,  after  completing  which,  they  resumed  their  slum 
bers  with  the  composure  of  men  long  inured  to  dangers. 

In  the  nsxt  night,  the  prowling  of  dogs  about  the  camp  and 
various  suspicious  noises  showed  that  Indians  were  still  hover- 
ing about  them.  Hurrying  on  by  long  marches,  they  at  length 
feu  upon  a  trail,  which,  with  the  experienced  eye  of  veteran 
woodmen,  they  soon  discovered  to  be  that  of  the  party  of  trap- 
pers detached  by  Captain  Bonneville  when  on  his  march,  and 
which  they  were  sent  to  join.  They  likewise  ascertained  from 
various  signs  that  this  party  had  suffered  some  maltreatment 
from  the  Indians.  They  now  pursued  the  trail  with  intense 
anxiety;  it  carried  them  to  the  banks  of  the  stream  called 
the  Gray  BuU,  and  down  along  its  course,  until  they  came  to 
where  it  empties  into  the  Horn  River.  Here,  to  their  great  joy, 
they  discovered  the  comrades  of  whom  they  were  in  search,  all 
strongly  fortified,  and  in  a  state  of  great  watchfulness  and 
anxiety. 

We  now  take  up  the  adventures  of  this  first  detachment  of 
trappers.  These  men,  after  parting  with  the  main  body  under 
Captain  BonneviUe,  had  proceeded  slowly  for  several  days  up 
the  course  of  the  river,  trapping  beaver  as  they  went.  One 
morning,  as  they  were  about  to  visit  their  traps,  one  of  the 
camp  keepers  pointed  to  a  fine  elk,  grazing  at  a  distance,  and 
requested  them  to  shoot  it.  Three  of  the  trappers  started  off 
for  the  purpose.  In  passing  a  thicket,  they  were  fired  upon  by 
some  savages  in  ambush,  and  at  the  same  time,  the  pretended 
elk,  throwing  off  his  hide  and  his  horn,  started  forth  an  Indian 
warrior. 

One  of  the  three  trappers  had  been  brought  down  by  the 
volley;  the  others  fled  to  the  camp,  and  all  hands,  seizing  up 
whatever  they  could  carry  off,  retreated  to  a  small  island  in 
the  river,  and  took  refuge  among  the  willows.  Here  they 
were  soon  joined  by  their  comrade  who  had  fallen,  but  who 
had  merely  been  wounded  in  the  neck. 

In  the  meantime  the  Indians  took  possession  of  the  deserted 
camp,  with  all  the  traps,  accoutrements,  and  horses.  While 
Ihey  were  busy  among  the  spoils,  a  solitary  trapper,  who  had 


ADVhWTUJiJiJS   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLb.         151 

been  absent  at  bis  \v(^rk,  came  sauntering  to  the  camp  with  his 
traps  on  his  back.  He  had  approached  near  by  when  an  In- 
dian came  forward  and  motioned  him  to  keep  away ;  at  the 
same  moment,  he  was  perceived  by  his  comrades  on  the  island, 
and  warned  of  his  danger  with  loud  cries.  The  poor  fellow 
stood  for  a  moment,  bewildered  and  aghast,  then  dropping  liis 
traps,  wheeled  and  made  off  at  full  speed,  quickened  by  a 
sportive  voUey  which  the  Indians  rattled  after  him. 

In  high  good  hmnor  with  their  easy  triimiph  the  savages 
now  formed  a  circle  round  the  fire  and  performed  a  war  dance, 
with  the  v.nlucky  trappers  for  rueful  spectators.  This  done, 
emboldened  by  what  they  considered  cowardice  on  the  part  of 
the  white  men,  they  neglected  then-  usual  mode  of  bush-fight- 
ing, and  advanced  openly  withm  twenty  paces  of  the  widows. 
A  sharp  volley  from  the  trappers  brought  them  to  a  sudden 
halt,  and  laid  three  of  them  breathless.  The  chief,  who  had 
stationed  himself  on  an  eminence  to  direct  all  the  movements 
of  his  people,  seeing  three  of  his  warriors  laid  low,  ordofcd  the 
rest  to  retire.  They  immediately  did  so,  and  the  whole  band 
soon  disappeared  behind  a  point  of  woods,  carrying  off  with 
them  the  horees,  traps,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  baggage. 

It  was  just  after  this  misfortune  that  the  party  of  ten  men 
discovered  this  forlorn  band  of  trappers  in  a  fortress  which 
they  had  thrown  up  after  their  disaster.  They  were  so  per- 
fectly dismayed,  that  they  could  not  be  induced  even  to  go  in 
quest  of  their  traps,  which  they  had  set  in  a  neighboring 
stream.  The  two  parties  now  joined  their  forces,  and  made 
their  way  without  further  misfortune,  to  the  rendezvous. 

Captain  Bonneville  perceived  from  the  reports  of  these  par- 
ties, as  well  as  from  what  he  had  observed  himself  in  his  re- 
cent march,  that  he  was  in  a  neighborhood  teeming  with 
danger.  Two  wandering  Snake  Indians,  also,  who  visited  th3 
camp,  assured  him  that  there  were  two  large  bands  of  Crows 
marching  rapidly  upon  him.  He  broke  up  his  encampment, 
therefore,  on  the  first  of  September,  made  his  way  to  the 
south,  across  the  Littlehorn  Mountain,  imtil  he  reached  Wind 
River,  and  then  turning  Avestward,  moved  slowly  up  the  banks 
of  that  otroam,  giving  time  for  his  men  to  trap  as  he  proceeded. 
As  it  was  not  in  the  plan  of  the  present  himting  campaign  to 
go  near  the  caches  on  Green  River,  and  as  the  trappers  Avere 
in  want  of  traps  to  replace  those  they  had  lost,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville undercook  to  visit  the  caches,  and  procm-e  a  supply.  To 
accompany  him  in  tliis  hazardous  expedition,  which  would 


152         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

take  him  through  the  defiles  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
and  up  the  Green  River  valley,  he  took  but  three  men ;  tho 
main  party  were  to  continue  on  trapping  up  tov^-ard  tlie  head 
of  Yv7"ind  River,  near  which  he  was  to  rejoin  them,  just  about 
tiie  place  where  that  stream  issues  from  the  mountains.  We 
shall  accompany  the  captain  on  liis  adventurous  errand 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

CAPTAIN  B0NNEVILL3  SETS  OUT  FOR  GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY — 
JOURNEY  UP  THE  FOPO  AGIE— BUFFALOES— THE  STARING 
WHITE  BEARS— THE  SMOKE — THE  WARM  SPRINGS — ATTEMPT  TO 
TRAVERSE  THE  WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS— THE  GREAT  SLOPE- 
MOUNTAIN  DELLS  AND  CHASSIS — CRYSTAL  LAKES — ASCENT  OF 
A  SNO^VY  PEAK — SUBLIME  PROSPECT— A  PANORAMA — "  LES 
DIGNES  DE  PITIE,"   OR  WILD  MEN  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Having  forded  Wind  River  a  little  above  its  mouth,  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  three  companions  proceeded  across  a  grav- 
elly plain,  untU  they  fell  upon  the  Popo  Agie,  up  the  left  bank 
of  which  they  held  their  course,  nearly  in  a  southerly  direc- 
lion.  Here  they  came  upon  numerous  droves  of  buffalo,  and 
halted  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  supply  of  beef.  As  the 
hunters  were  stealing  cautiously  to  get  within  shot  of  the 
game,  two  small  white  bears  suddenly  presented  themselves 
in  their  path,  and,  rising  upon  their  hind  legs,  contemplated 
them  for  some  time  with  a  whimsically  solemn  gaze.  The 
hunters  remained  motionless;  whereupon  the  bears,  having 
apparently  satisfied  their  curiosity,  lowered  themselves  upoa 
all  fours,  and  began  to  Avithdraw.  The  hunters  new  advanced, 
upon  which  the  bears  turned,  rose  again  upon  their  haunches, 
and  repeated  their  serio-comic  examination.  This  was  re- 
peated several  times,  until  the  hunters,  piqued  at  their  un- 
mannerly staring,  rebuked  it  with  a  discharge  of  their  rifles. 
The  bears  made  an  awkward  bound  or  two,  as  if  wounded,  and 
then  walked  off  with  great  gravity,  seeming  to  commune  to- 
gether, and  every  now  and  then  turning  to  take  another  look 
at  the  hunters.  It  was  well  for  the  latter  that  the  bears  were 
but  half  grown,  and  had  not  yet  acquired  the  ferocity  of  their 
kind. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         153 

The  buffalo  were  some-what  startled  at  the  report  of  the  fire- 
arms; but  the  hunters  suceeeded  in  killing  a  couple  of  fine 
cows,  and,  having  secured  the  best  of  the  moat,  continued  for- 
ward until  some  time  after  dark,  when,  encamping  in  a  large 
thicket  of  willows,  they  made  a  great  fire,  roasted  buffalo  beef 
enough  for  half  a  score,  disposed  of  the  whole  of  it  with  keen 
relish  and  high  glee,  and  then  "  turned  in"  for  the  night  and 
slept  soimdly,  like  weary  and  well-fed  hunters. 

At  daylight  they  wore  in  the  saddle  again,  and  skirted  along 
the  river,  passing  through  fresh  grassy  meadows,  and  a  succes- 
sion of  beautiful  groves  of  willows  and  cotton-wood.  Toward 
evening,  Captain  Bonneville  observed  smoke  at  a  distance  ris- 
ing from  among  hills,  directly  in  the  route  he  was  pursuing. 
Apprehensive  of  some  hostile  band,  he  cmicealed  the  horses  in 
a  thicket,  and,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  men,  crawled  cau- 
tiously up  a  height,  from  which  he  could  overlook  the  scene 
of  danger.  Here,  with  a  spy-glass,  he  reconnoitred  the  sur- 
rounding countrj^  but  not  a.  lodge  nor  fire,  not  a  man,  horse, 
nor  dog,  was  to  be  discovered ;  in  short,  the  smoke  which  had 
caused  such  alarm  proved  to  be  the  vapor  from  several  warm, 
or  rather  hot  springs  of  considerable  magnitude,  pouring  forth 
streams  in  eveiy  direction  over  a  bottom  of  white  clay.  One 
of  the  springs  was  about  twenty-five  yards  in  diameter,  and  so 
deep  that  the  water  was  of  a  bright  green  color. 

They  were  now  advancing  diagonally  upon  the  chain  of  Wind 
River  Mountains,  which  lay  between  them  and  Green  River 
valley.  To  coast  round  their  southern  points  would  be  a  wide 
circuit;  whereas,  could  they  force  their  way  through  them, 
they  might  proceed  in  a  straight  line.  The  mountains  were 
lofty,  with  snowy  peaks  and  cragged  sides ;  it  was  hoped,  how- 
ever, that  some  practicable  defile  might  be  found.  They  at- 
tempted, accordingly,  to  penetrate  the  moiuatains  by  following 
up  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Popo  Agie,  but  soon  found  them- 
selves in  the  midst  of  stupendous  crags  and  precipices,  that 
barred  all  progress.  Retracing  their  steps,  and  falling  back 
upon  the  river,  they  consulted  where  to  make  another  attempt. 
They  were  too  close  beneath  the  mountains  to  scan  them  gener- 
ally, but  they  now  recollected  having  noticed,  from  the  plain, 
a  beautiful  slope,  rising  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty  degi-ees, 
and  apparently  without  any  break,  until  it  reached  the  snowy 
region.  Seeking  this  gentle  accli\ity,  they  began  to  ascend  it 
-with  alacrity,  trusting  to  find  at  the  top  one  of  those  elevated 
plains  which  prevail  among  the  Rocky  Mountains.     The  slope 


154         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

was  covered  with  coarse  gravel,  interspersed  with  plates  of 
freestone.  The^  attained  the  summit  with  some  toil,  but 
found,  instead  of  a  level,  or  rather  undulating  plain,  that  they 
were  on  the  brink  of  a  deep  and  precipitous  ravine,  from  the 
bottom  of  which  rose  a  se«ond  slope,  similar  to  the  one  they 
had  just  ascended.  Down  into  this  profound  ravine  they  made 
their  way  by  a  rugged  path,  or  rather  fissure  of  the  rocks,  and 
then  labored  up  the  second  slope.  They  gained  the  summit 
only  to  find  themselves  on  another  ravine,  and  now  perceived 
that  this  vast  mountain,  which  had  presented  such  a  sloping 
and  even  side  to  the  distant  beholder  on  the  plain,  was  shagged 
by  fi'ightful  precipices,  and  seamed  with  longitudinal  chasms, 
deep  and  dangerous. 

In  one  of  these  wild  dells  they  passed  the  night,  and  slept 
soundly  and  sweetly  after  their  fatigues.  Two  days  more  of 
arduous  climbing  and  scrambling  only  served  to  admit  them 
into  the  heart  of  this  mountainous  and  a^vf ul  solitude ;  where 
difficulties  increased  as  they  proceeded.  Sometimes  they 
scrambled  from  rock  to  rock,  up  the  bed  of  some  mountain 
stream,  dashing  its  bright  way  down  to  the  plains ;  sometimes 
they  availed  themselves  of  the  paths  made  by  the  deer  and  the 
mountain  sheep,  which,  however,  often  took  them  to  the  brink 
of  fearful  precipices,  or  led  to  rugged  defiles,  impassable  for 
their  horses.  At  one  place  they  were  obliged  to  slide  their 
horses  down  the  face  of  a  rock,  in  which  attempt  some  of  the 
poor  animals  lost  their  footing,  rolled  to  the  bottom,  and  came 
near  being  dashed  to  pieces. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  the  travellers  attained 
one  of  the  elevated  valleys  locked  up  in  this  singular  bed  of 
mountains.  Here  were  two  bright  and  beautiful  little  lakes, 
set  like  mirrors  in  the  midst  of  stern  and  rocky  heights,  and 
surrounded  by  grassy  meadows,  inexpressibly  refreshing  to 
the  eye.  These  probably  were  among  the  sources  of  those 
mighty  streams  which  take  their  rise  among  these  moun- 
tains, and  wander  hundreds  of  miles  through  the  plains. 

In  the  green  pastures  bordering  upon  these  lakes,  the  trav- 
ellers halted  to  repose,  and  to  give  their  weary  horses  time 
to  crop  the  sweet  and  tender  herbage.  They  had  now  as- 
scended  to  a  great  height  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  yet 
they  beheld  huge  crags  of  granite  piled  one  upon  another, 
and  beetling  like  battlements  far  above  them.  While  two  of 
the  men  remained  in  the  camp  with  the  horses.  Captain 
Bonneville,  accompanied  by  the  other  men,  set  out  to  climb 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         155 

a  neighboring  height,  hoping  to  gain  a  commanding  pros- 
pect, and  discern  some  practicable  route  through  this  stu- 
pendons  labyrinth.  After  much  toil,  he  reached  the  summit 
of  a  lofty  clilf,  but  it  was  only  to  behold  gigantic  peaks  ris- 
ing all  around,  and  towering  far  into  the  snowy  regions  of 
the  atmosphere.  Selecting  one  which  appeared  to  l)e  the 
liighest,  he  crossed  a  narrow  intervening  vtdley,  and  began 
to  scale  it.  He  soon  found  that  he  had  undertaken  a  tre- 
mendous task ;  but  the  pride  of  man  is  never  more  obstinate 
than  when  climbing  mountr:itis.  The  ascent  was  so  steep 
and  rugged  that  he  and  his  companions  were  fi*equently 
obliged  to  clamber  on  hands  and  knees,  with  their  guns  slung 
upon  their  backs.  Frecjuently,  exhausted  with  fatigue,  and 
dripping  with  perspiration,  they  threw  themselves  upon  the 
snow,  and  took  handfuls  of  it  to  allay  their  parching  thirst. 
At  one  place  they  even  stripped  off  their  coats  and  hung 
them  upon  the  bushes,  and  thus  lightly  clad,  proceeded  to 
scramble  over  these  eternal  snows.  As  they  ascended  still 
higher,  there  were  cool  breezes  that  refreshed  and  braced 
them,  and  springing  with  new  ardor  to  their  task,  they  at 
length  attained  the  summit. 

"  Here  a  scene  burst  upon  the  view  of  Captain  Bonneville,  that 
for  a  time  astonished  and  overwhelmed  him  with  its  immensi- 
ty. He  stood,  in  fact,  upon  that  dividing  ridge  which  Indians 
regard  as  the  crest  of  the  world;  and  on  each  side  of  which 
the  landscape  may  be  said  to  decline  to  the  two  cardinal  oceans 
of  the  globe.  Whichever  way  he  turned  his  eye,  it  was  con- 
founded by  the  vastness  and  variety  of  objects.  Beneath  him, 
the  Rocky  Mountains  seemed  to  open  all  their  secret  recesses; 
deep,  solemn  valleys;  treasured  lakes;  dreary  passes;  rugged 
defiles  and  foaming  torrents;  while  beyond  their  savage  pre- 
cincts, the  eye  was  lost  in  an  almost  immeasurable  landscape, 
stretching  on  every  side  into  dim  and  hazy  distance,  like  the 
expanse  of  a  summer's  sea.  Whichever  way  he  looked,  he  be- 
held vast  plains  glimmering  with  reflected  sunshine;  mighty 
streams  wandering  on  their  shining  course  toward  either  ocean, 
and  snowy  mountains,  chain  beyond  chain,  and  peak  beyond 
peak,  till  thev  melted  hke  clouds  into  the  horizon.  For  a  time, 
the  Indian  fable  seemed  realized ;  he  had  attained  that  height 
from  which  the  Blackfoot  warrior,  after  death,  first  catches  a 
view  of  the  land  of  souls,  and  beholds  the  happy  huntmg 
gi'ounds  spread  out  below  him,  brightening  with  the  abodes  of 
the  free  and  generous  spirits.     The  captain  stood  for  a  long 


156         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

while  gazing  upon  this  scene,  lost  in  a  crowd  of  vague  and  in- 
definite ideas  and  sensations.  A  long-drawn  inspiration  at 
length  reheved  him  from  this  enthralment  of  the  mind,  and  he 
began  to  analyze  the  parts  of  this  vast  panorama.  A  simple 
enumeration  of  a  few  of  its  features  may  give  some  idea  of  its 
collective  grandeur  and  magnificence. 

The  peak  on  which  the  captain  had  taken  his  stand  com- 
manded the  whole  Wind  Eiver  chain;  which,  in  fact,  may 
rather  be  considered  one  immense  mountaiu,  broken  into 
snowy  peaks  and  lateral  spurs,  and  seamed  with  naiTow  val- 
leys. Some  of  these  valleys  glittered  with  sUver  lakes  and 
gushing  streams ;  the  fountain-heads,  as  it  were,  of  the  mighty 
tributaries  to  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans.  Beyond  the 
snowy  peaks,  to  the  south,  and  far,  far  below  the  mountain 
range,  the  gentle  river,  called  the  Sweet  Water,  was  seen  pur- 
suing its  tranquil  waj^  through  the  rugged  regions  of  the  Black 
Hills.  In  the  east,  the  head-waters  of  Wind  River  wandered 
through  a  plain,  until,  mingling  in  one  powerful  current,  they 
forced  their  way  through  the  range  of  Horn  Mountains,  and 
were  lost  to  view.  To  the  north  were  caught  glimpses  of  the 
upper  streams  of  the  Yellowstone,  that  great  tributary  of  the 
Missouri.  In  another  direction  were  to  be  seen  some  of  the 
sources  of  the  Oregon,  or  Columbia,  flowing  to  the  northwest, 
past  those  towering  landmarks,  the  Three  Tetons,  and  pouring 
down  into  the  great  lava  plain ;  while,  almost  at  nhe  captain's 
feet,  the  Green  River,  or  Colorado  of  the  West,  sot  forth  on  its 
wandering  pilgrimage  to  the  Gulf  of  Cahfornia ;  at  first  a  mere 
mountain  torrent,  dashing  northward  over  crag  and  precipice, 
in  a  succession  of  cascades,  and  tumbling  into  the  plain,  Avhere, 
expanding  into  an  ample  river,  it  circled  away  to  the  south, 
and  after  alternately  shining  out  and  disappearing  in  the 
mazes  of  the  vast  landscape,  was  finally  lost  in  a  horizon  of 
mountains.  The  day  was  calm  and  cloudless,  and  the  atmos- 
phere so  pure  that  objects  were  discernible  at  an  astonishing 
distance.  The  whole  of  this  immense  area  waa  inclosed  by  an 
outer  range  of  shadowy  peaks,  some  of  them  faintly  marked 
on  the  horizon,  which  seemed  to  waU  it  in  frorii  the  rest  of  the 
earth. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  Captain  Bonneville  had  no  instru- 
ments with  him  with  which  to  ascertain  the  altitude  of  this 
peak.  He  gives  it  as  his  opinion,  that  it  is  the  loftiest  point  of 
the  North  American  continent ;  but  of  this  we  have  no  satis- 
factory proof.     It  is  certain  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  of 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         157 

an  altitude  vastly  superior  to  what  was  formerly  supposed. 
"We  rather  incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  highest  peak  is  fur- 
ther to  the  northward,  and  is  tlie  same  measured  by  Mr. 
Thompson,  sui'veyor  to  the  Northwest  Conipany;  who,  by  11k; 
joint  means  of  tlie  barometer  and  trigonometric  measurement, 
ascertained  it  to  be  twenty-five  thousand  feet  above  tlie  level 
of  the  sea;  an  elevation  only  inferior  to  that  of  the  Hmi- 
alayas.* 

For  a  long  time,  Captain  Bonneville  remained  gazing  around 
him  with  wonder  and  enthusiasm;  at  length  the  chill  and 
wintry  winds,  whirhng  about  the  snow-clad  height,  admon- 
ished him  to  descend.  He  soon  regained  the  spot  where  he 
and  his  companions  had  thrown  ofi"  their  coats,  which  were 
now  gladly  resumed,  and,  retracing  their  course  down  the 
peak,  they  safely  rejoined  their  companions  on  the  border  of 
the  lake. 

Notwithstanding  the  savage  and  almost  inaccessible  nature 
of  these  mountains,  they  have  theii*  inhabitants.  As  one  of 
the  party  was  out  hunting,  he  came  upon  the  track  of  a  man, 
in  a  lonely  valley.  Following  it  up,  ho  reached  the  brow  of  a 
cliff,  whence  he  beheld  three  savages  rimning  across  the  vaUcy 
below  him.  He  fired  his  gun  to  ^all  their  attention,  hoping  to 
induce  them  to  turn  back.  They  only  fled  the  faster,  and  dLs- 
appeared  among  the  rocks.  The  hunter  returned  and  re]iortef] 
what  he  had  seen.  Captain  Bonneville  at  once  concluded  tha( 
these  belonged  to  a  kind  of  hermit  race,  scanty  in  number, 
that  inhabit  the  highest  and  most  inaccessible  fa.stnesses. 
They  speak  the  Shoshonie  language,  and  probably  are  offsets 
from  that  tribe,  though  they  have  peculiarities  of  their  own 
which  distinguish  them  from  all  other  Indians.  They  are 
miserably  poor,  own  no  horses,  and  ai-e  destitute  of  every  con- 
venience to  be  derived  from  an  intercourse  with  the  whites. 
Their  weapons  are  bows  and  stone-pointed  arrows,  with  which 
they  hunt  the  deer,  the  elk,  and  the  mountain  sheep.  They 
are  to  be  foimd  scattered  about  the  countries  of  the  Shoshonie, 
Flathead,  Crow,  and  Blackfeet  tribes;  but  their  residences  are 
always  in  lonely  places,  and  the  clefts  of  the  rocks. 

Their  footsteps  are  often  seen  by  the  trappers  in  the  high 
and  solitary  valleys  among  the  mountains,  and  the  smokes  of 
their  fires  descried  among  the  prec'pices,  but  they  themselves 


*  See  the  letter  of  Professor  Renwick,  ia  the  Appendix  to  Astoria. 


158        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

are  rarely  met  with,  and  still  more  rarely  brought  to  a  parley, 
so  frreat  is  their  shyness  and  their  dread  of  strangers. 

As  their  poverty  offers  no  temptation  to  the  marauder,  and 
as  they  are  inoffensive  in  their  habits,  they  are  never  the  ob- 
jects of  warfare;  should  one  of  them,  however,  fall  into  the 
hands  of  a  war  party,  he  is  sure  to  be  made  a  sacrifice,  for  the 
sake  of  that  savage  trophy,  a  scalp,  and  that  barbarous  cere- 
mony, a  scalp  dance.  These  forlorn  beings,  forming  a  mere 
link  between  human  nature  and  the  brute,  have  been  looked 
down  upon  with  pity  and  contempt  by  the  creolo  trappers, 
who  have  given  them  the  appellation  of  ' '  les  dignes  do  pitic, " 
or  "the  objects  of  pity."  They  appear  more  worthy  to  be 
called  the  wild  men  of  tiie  mountains. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A  RETROGRADE  MOVE  —  CHANNEL  OF  A  MOUNTAIN  TORRENT  — 
ALPINE  SCENERY— CASCADES— BEAVER  VALLEYS — BEAVERS  AT 
WORK — THEIR  ARCHITECTURE — THEIR  MODES  OF  FELLING  TREES 
—MODE  OF  TRAPPING  BEAVER— CONTESTS  OF  SKILL — A  BEAVER 
"up  to  trap"— arrival  at  the  green  RIVER  CACHES. 

The  view  from  the  snowy  peak  of  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tain, while  it  had  excited  Captain  Bonneville's  enthusiasm, 
had  satisfied  him  that  it  would  be  useless  to  force  a  passage 
westward,  through  niultiplying  barriers  of  cliffs  and  preci- 
pices. Turning  his  face  eastward,  therefore,  he  endeavored 
to  regain  the  plains,  intending  to  make  the  circuit  round  the 
southern  point  of  the  mountain.  To  descend  and  to  extricate 
himself  from  the  heart  of  this  rock-piled  wilderness,  was  al- 
most as  difficult  as  to  penetrate  it.  Taking  his  course  down 
the  ravine  of  a  tumbling  stream,  the  commencement  of  sonic 
future  river,  he  descended  from  rock  to  rock,  and  shelf  to 
shelf,  between  stupendous  cliffs  and  beetling  crags  that 
sprang  up  to  the  sky.  Often  he  had  to  cross  and  recroea 
the  rushing  torrent,  as  it  wound  foaming  and  roaring  down 
its  broken  channel,  or  was  walled  by  perpendicular  precipices; 
and  imminent  was  the  hazard  of  breaking  the  legs  of  the 
horses  in  the  clefts  and  fissures  of  slippery  rocks.  The  whole 
scenery  of  this  deep  ravine  was  of  Alpine  wildness  and  sub- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         159 

limity.  Sometimes  the  travellci*s  passed  beneath  cascades 
which  pitched  from  such  lol'ty  heights  that  the  water  fell 
into  the  stream  like  heavy  rain.  In  other  places  torrents 
came  tumbling  from  ci-ag  to  crag,  dashing  into  foam  and 
spray,  and  making  tremendous  din  and  uproar. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  descent,  the  travellers,  having 
got  beyond  the  steepest  pitch  of  the  mountains,  came  to  where 
th-^  deep  and  rugged  ravine  began  occasionally  to  expand  into 
small  levels  or  valleys,  and  the  stream  to  assume  for  short 
intervals  a  more  peaceful  character.  Here  not  merely  the 
river  itself,  but  every  rivulet  flowing  into  it,  was  dammed 
up  by  communities  of  industrious  beavers,  so  as  to  inundate 
the  neighborhood  and  make  continual  swamps. 

During  a  mid-day  halt  in  one  of  these  beaver  valleys.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  left  his  companions,  and  strolled  down  the 
course  of  the  stream  to  reconnoitre.  He  had  not  proceeded 
far  when  he  came  to  a  beaver  pond,  and  caught  a  glimpse 
of  one  of  its  painstaking  inhabitants  busily  at  work  upon  the 
dam.  The  curiosity  of  the  captain  was  aroused,  to  behold  the 
mode  of  operating  of  this  far-famed  architect ;  he  moved  for- 
ward, therefore,  with  the  utmost  caution,  parting  the  branches 
of  the  water  willows  without  making  any  noise,  until  having 
attained  a  position  conamanding  a  view  of  the  whole  pond,  he 
stretched  himself  fiat  on  the  ground,  and  watched  the  solitary 
workman.  In  a  httle  while  three  others  appeared  at  the  head 
of  the  dam,  bringing  sticks  and  bushes.  With  these  they  pro- 
ceeded directly  to  the  barrier,  which  Captain  Bonneville  per- 
ceived was  in  need  of  repair.  Having  deposited  their  loads 
upon  the  broken  part,  they  dived  into  the  water,  and  shortly 
reappeared  at  the  surface.  Each  now  brought  a  quantity  of 
mud,  with  which  he  would  plaster  the  sticks  and  bushes  just 
deposited.  This  kind  of  masonry  was  continued  for  some 
time,  repeated  supplies  of  wood  and  mud  being  brought,  and 
treated  in  the  same  manner.  This  done,  the  industrious 
beavers  indulged  in  a  little  recreation,  chasing  each  other 
about  the  pond,  dodging  and  whisking  about  on  the  surface, 
or  diving  to  the  bottom;  and  in  their  frolic  often  slapping 
their  tails  on  the  water  with  a  loud  clacking  sound.  While 
they  were  thus  amusing  themselves,  another  of  the  fraternitj' 
made  his  appearance,  and  looked  gravely  on  their  sports  for 
some  time,  without  offering  to  join  in  them.  He  then  climbed 
the  bank  close  to  where  the  captain  was  concealed,  and,  rear- 
ing liimself  on  his  hind  quartei's,  in  a  sitting  position,  put  his 


160         ADVENTURES  OB'  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

fore  paws  against  a  yoiing  pine  tree,  and  began  to  cut  the  bark 
with  his  teeth.  x\t  times  he  would  tear  off  a  small  piece,  and 
holding  it  between  his  paws,  and  retaining  his  sedentary  posi- 
tion, would  feed  himself  with  it,  after  the  fashion  of  a  monkey. 
The  object  of  the  beaver,  however,  was  e\idently  to  cut  down 
the  tree ;  and  he  was  proceeding  with  his  work,  when  he  was 
alarmed  by  the  approacli  of  Captain  Bonneville's  men,  who, 
feeling  anxious  at  the  protracted  absence  of  their  leader,  were 
coming  in  search  of  him.  At  the  sound  of  their  voices,  all  the 
beavers,  busy  as  well  as  idle,  dived  at  once  beneath  the  sur- 
face, and  were  no  more  to  be  seen.  Captain  Bonneville  re- 
gretted this  interruption.  He  had  heard  much  of  the  sagacity 
of  the  beaver  in  cutting  down  trees,  in  which,  it  is  said,  they 
manage  to  make  them  fall  into  the  water,  and  in  such  a  posi- 
tion and  direction  as  may  be  most  favorable-  for  conveyance  tn 
the  desired  pomt.  In  the  present  instance,  the  tree  was  a  tall, 
straight  pine,  and  as  it  grew  perpendicularly,  and  there  was 
not  a  l)reath  of  air  stii'ring,  the  beaver  could  have  felled  it  in 
any  direction  he  pleased,  if  really  capable  of  exercising  a  dis- 
cretion in  the  matter.  He  was  evidently  engaged  in  ' '  belting" 
the  tree,  and  his  first  incision  had  been  on  the  side  nearest  to 
the  water. 

Captain  Bonneville,  however,  discredits,  on  the  whole,  the 
alleged  sagacity  of  the  beaver  in  this  particular,  and  thinks 
the  animal  has  no  other  aim  than  to  get  the  tree  down,  without 
any  of  the  subtle  calculation  as  to  its  mode  or  direction  of  fall- 
ing. This  attribute,  he  thinks,  has  been  ascribed  to  them  from 
the  circumstance  that  most  trees  growing  near  water-courses, 
either  lean  bodily  toward  the  stream,  or  stretch  their  largest 
limbs  in  that  direction,  to  benefit  by  the  space,  the  light,  and 
the  air  to  be  found  there.  The  beaver,  of  course,  attacks  those 
trees  which  are  nearest  at  hand,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
stream  or  pond.  He  makes  incisions  round  them,  or,  in  tech- 
nical phrase,  belts  them  with  his  teeth,  and  when  they  fall, 
they  naturally  take  the  direction  in  which  their  trunks  or 
branches  preponderate. 

"I  have  often,"  says  Captain  Bonneville,  "seen  trees 
measuring  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  at  the  places  vviiere 
they  had  been  cut  through  by  the  beaver,  but  they  lay  in 
all  directions,  aad  often  very  inconveniently  for  the  after 
purposes  of  the  animal.  In  fact,  so  little  ingenuity  do  they 
at  times  display  in  this  particular,  that  at  one  of  our  camps  on 
Snake  River  a  beaver  was  found  with  liis  head  wedged  into 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         Id 

the  cut  which  ho  had  made,  the  tree  having  fallen  upon  him 
and  held  him  nrisoner  until  lie  died." 

Great  choice,  according  to  tlio  captain,  is  certainly  displayed 
by  the  beaver  in  selecting  the  wood  whicli  is  to  furnish  bark 
for  winter  provision.  The  whole  beaver  household,  old  and 
young,  set  out  upon  this  business,  and  will  often  make  long 
journeys  before  they  are  suited.  Sftmetinies  they  cut  down 
trees  of  the  largest  size  and  then  cull  the  branches,  the  bark  of 
which  is  most  to  their  taste.  These  they  cut  into  lengtbs  of 
about  three  feet,  convey  them  to  the  water,  and  float  them  to 
their  lodges,  where  they  are  stored  away  for  winter.  They 
are  studious  of  cleanliness  and  comfort  in  their  lodges,  and 
after  their  repasts,  will  carry  out  the  sticks  from  which  they 
have  eaten  the  bark,  and  throw  them  into  the  current  beyond 
the  barrier.  They  are  jealous,  too,  of  their  territories,  and 
extremely  pugnacious,  never  permitting  a  strange  beaver  to 
enter  their  premises,  and  often  fighting  with  such  virulence  as 
almost  to  tear  each  other  to  pieces.  In  the  spring,  which  is 
the  breeding  season,  the  male  leaves  the  female  at  home,  and 
sets  off  on  a  tour  of  plea':ure,  rambling  often  to  a  great 
distance,  recreating  liimself  in  every  clear  nnd  quiet  expanse 
of  water  on  his  way,  and  climbing  the  b.mks  occasionally  to 
feast  upon  the  tender  sprouts  of  the  young  willows.  As  sum- 
mer advances,  he  gives  up  liis  bachelor  rambles,  and  bethuik- 
ing  himself  of  housekeeping  duties,  returns  home  to  his  mate 
and  his  new  progeny,  and  marshals  them  all  for  the  foraging 
expedition  in  quest  of  winter  provisions. 

After  having  shown  the  public  s])irit  of  this  praiseworthy 
little  animal  as  a  memljer  of  a  community,  and  his  amiable  and 
exemplary  conduct  as  the  father  of  a  family,  we  grieve  to  re- 
cord the  perils  with  which  he  is  environed,  and  the  snares  set 
for  him  and  his  painstaking  household. 

Practice,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  has  given  such  a  quick- 
ness of  eye  to  the  experienced  trapper  in  all  that  relates  to  his 
pursuit,  that  he  can  detect  the  slightest  sign  of  beaver,  how- 
ever wild;  and  although  the  lodge  may  be  concealed  by  close 
thickets  and  overhanging  willows,  he  can  generally,  at  a  single 
glance,  make  an  accurate  guess  at  the  number  of  its  inmates. 
He  now  goes  to  work  to  set  his  trap;  planting  it  upon  the 
shore,  in  some  chosen  place,  two  or  three  inches  below  the  sm*- 
facc  of  the  water,  and  secures  it  by  a  chain  to  a  pole  set  deep 
in  the  mud.  A  small  twig  is  then  stinppcd  of  its  bark,  nnd  one 
end  is  dipped  in  the  "medicine,"  as  the  trappers  term  the 


162         ^J^  VK^TUIIKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE 

peculiar  bait  which  thoy  employ.  This  end  of  the  stick  rises 
about  four  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  the  other  end 
is  planted  between  the  jaws  of  the  trap.  The  beaver,  possess- 
ing an  acute  sense  of  smell,  is  soon  attracted  by  the  odor  of  the 
bait.  As  he  raises  his  nose  toward  it,  his  foot  is  caught  in  tha 
trap.  In  his  fright  he  throws  a  somerset  into  the  deep  water. 
The  trap  being  fastened  to  the  pole,  resists  all  his  efforts  to 
drag  it  to  the  shore ;  the  chain  by  which  it  is  fastened  defies 
lib  teeth ;  he  struggles  for  a  time,  and  at  length  sinks  to  the 
bottom  and  is  drowned. 

Upon  rocky  bottoms,  where  it  is  not  possible  to  plant  the 
pole,  it  is  thrown  into  the  stream.  The  beaver  when  entrapped 
often  gets  fastened  by  the  chain  to  sunken  logs  or  floating 
timber ;  if  he  gets  to  shore,  he  is  entangled  in  the  thickets  of 
brook  willows.  In  such  cases,  however,  it  costs  the  trapper 
diMgent  search,  and  sometimes  a  bout  at  swimming,  before  he 
finds  his  game. 

Occasionally  it  happens  that  several  members  of  a  beaver 
family  are  trapped  in  succession.  The  survivors  then  become 
extremely  shy,  and  can  scarcely  be  "brought  to  medicine,"  to 
use  the  trapper's  phrase,  for  "  taking  the  bait."  In  such  case, 
the  trapper  gives  up  the  use  of  the  bait  and  conceals  his  traps 
in  the  iisual  paths  and  crossing-places  of  the  household.  Tlie 
beaver  now  being  completely  "up  to  trap, "  approaches  themi 
cautiously,  and  springs  them  ingeniously  with  a  stick.  At 
other  times  he  turns  the  traps  bottom  upward  by  the  same 
means,  and  occasionally  even  drags  them  to  the  barrier  and 
conceals  them  in  the  mud.  The  trapper  now  give  up  the  con- 
test of  ingenuity,  and  shouldering  his  traps  marches  off,  ad- 
mitting that  he  is  not  yet  "  up  to  beaver." 

On  the  day  following  Captain  Bonneville's  supei'vision  of  the 
industrious  and  frolicsome  community  of  beavers,  of  which  he 
has  given  so  edifying  an  account,  he  succeeded  in  extricating 
himself  from  the  Wind  Eiver  Mountains,  and  regaming  the 
plain  to  the  eastward,  made  a  great  bend  to  the  south,  so  as  to 
go  round  the  bases  of  the  mountains,  and  arrived,  without 
further  incident  of  importance,  at  tb.e  old  place  of  rendezvous 
in  Green  River  valley,  on  the  17th  of  September. 

He  found  the  caches,  in  which  he  had  deposited  his  superflu- 
ous goods  and  equipments,  all  safe,  and  having  opened  and 
taken  from  them  the  necessary  supplies,  he  closed  them  again, 
taking  care  to  obliterate  all  traces  that  might  betray  them  to 
the  keen  eyes  of  Indian  marauders. 


ADVEMUni£6   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         103 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 

ROUTE  TOWARD  WIND  RIVER  — DANGEROUS  NEIOnRORTIOOD — 
ALARMS  AND  PRECAUTIONS— A  SHAM  ENCAMPMENT — APPARITION 
OF  AN  INDIAJf  SPY— MIDNIGHT  MOVE— A  MOUNTAIN  DEFILE— 
THE  WIND  RIVER  VALLEY — TRACKING  A  PARTY— DESERTED 
CAMPS — SYMPTOMS  OF  CROWS  —  MEETING  OF  COMRADES— A 
TRAPPER  ENTRAPPED— CROW  PLEASANTRY— CROW  SPIES — A 
DECAMPMENT— RETURN  TO  GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY  — MEETING 
WITH  FITZPATRICK'S  PARTY— TUEIR  ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE 
CROWS— ORTHODOX  CROWS. 

On  the  18th  0£  September,  Qaptain  Bonneville  and  his  three 
companions  set  out,  bright  and  early,  to  rejoin  the  main  party, 
from  wliich  they  had  parted  on  Wind  River.  Their  route  lay 
up  the  Green  River  vallej',  with  that  stream  on  their  right 
hand,  and  beyond  it  the  range  of  Wind  River  Mountains.  At 
the  head  of  the  valley  they  were  to  pass  through  a  do  file  which 
would  bring  them  out  beyond  the  northern  end  of  I'.icse  moun- 
tains, to  the  head  of  Wind  River ;  where  they  expected  to  meet 
the  main  party  according  to  arrangement. 

We  have  already  adverted  to  the  dangerous  nature  of  this 
neighborhood,  infested  by  roving  bands  of  Crows  and  Black- 
feet,  to  whom  the  numerous  defiles  and  passes  of  the  coimtry 
afford  capital  places  for  ambush  and  surprise.  Tlie  travellei-s, 
therefore,  kept  a  vigilant  eye  upon  everything  that  might  give 
intimation  of  lurking  danger. 

About  two  hours  after  mid-daj',  as  they  reached  the  smnmit 
of  a  liill,  they  discovered  buffalo  on  the  plain  below,  runuiug 
in  every  direction.  One  of  the  men,  too,  fancied  ho  heard  the 
report  of  a  gun.  It  was  concluded,  therefore,  that  there  was 
some  part}''  of  Indians  below,  himting  the  buffalo. 

The  horses  were  immediately  concealed  in  a  narrow  ravine ; 
and  the  captain,  mounting  an  eminence,  but  concealing  him- 
self from  view,  reconnoitred  the  whole  neighborhood  with  a 
telescope.  Not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen;  so,  after  halting 
abovit  an  hour,  he  resumed  his  journey.  Convinced,  however, 
that  he  was  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  he  ad^  anced  with 
the  utmost  caution;  winding  liis  way  through  hollows  and 


1^4         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

ravines,  and  avoiding,  as  much  as  possible,  any  open  tract  or 
rising  ground  that  might  betray  his  Httlo  party  to  the  watchful 
eye  of  an  Indian  scout. 

Arriving  at  length  at  the  edge  of  the  open  meadow  land 
bordering  on  the  river,  he  again  observed  the  buffalo,  as  far  as 
he  could  see,  scampering  in  great  alarm.  Once  more  conceal- 
ing the  hoi'ses,  he  and  his  companions  remained  for  a  long 
time  watching  the  various  groups  of  the  animals,  as  each 
caiight  the  panic  and  started  off ;  but  they  sought  in  vain  to 
discover  the  cause. 

They  were  now  about  to  enter  the  mountain  defile,  at  the 
head  of  Green  River  valley,  where  they  might  be  waylaid  and 
attacked ;  they  therefore  arranged  the  packs  on  their  horses,  in 
the  manner  most  secure  and  convenient  for  sudden  flight, 
should  such  be  necessary.  This  done,  they  again  set  forward, 
keeping  the  most  anxious  look-out  in  every  direction. 

It  was  now  drawing  toward  evening;  but  they  could  not 
think  of  encamping  for  the  night  in  a  place  so  full  of  danger. 
Captain  Bonneville,  therefore,  determined  to  halt  about  sim> 
set,  kindle  a  fire,  as  if  for  encampment,  cook  and  eat  supper ; 
but,  as  soon  as  it  was  sufficiently  dai'k,  to  make  a  rapid  move 
for  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and  seek  some  secluded  spot 
for  their  night's  lodgings. 

Accordingly,  as  the  sun  went  down,  the  little  party  came  to 
a  halt,  made  a  large  fire,  spitted  their  buffalo  meat  on  wooden 
sticks,  and,  when  sufficiently  roasted,  planted  the  savory 
viands  before  them ;  cutting  off  huge  slices  with  their  hunting 
knives,  and  supping  with  a  hunter's  appetite.  The  light  of 
their  fire  w^ould  not  fail,  as  they  knew,  to  attract  the  attention 
of  any  Indian  horde  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  they  trusted  to 
be  off  and  away  before  any  prowlers  could  reach  the  place. 
While  they  were  supping  thus  hastily,  however,  one  of  their 
party  suddenly  started  up  and  shouted  "Indians!"  AU  were 
instantly  on  their  feet,  with  their  rifles  in  their  hands ;  but 
could  see  no  enemy.  The  man,  however,  declared  that  he 
had  seen  an  Indian  advancing  cautiously  along  the  trail  which 
they  had  made  in  coming  to  the  encampment,  who,  the  mo- 
ment he  was  perceived  had  thrown  himself  on  the  ground  and 
disappeared.  He  urged  Captain  Bonneville  instantly  to  de- 
camp. The  captain,  however,  took  the  matter  more  coolly. 
The  single  fact  that  the  Indian  had  endeavored  to  hide  himself, 
convinced  him  that  he  was  not  one  of  a  party  on  the  advance 
to  make  an  attack.    He  was,  probably,  some  scout,  who  had 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         \iy,\ 

followed  up  their  trail  iintil  he  came  in  sight  of  their  fire. 
He  would,  in  such  case,  retui'n,  and  re])oi-t  wliat  he  had  soon 
to  his  companions.  These,  supposing  tlic  white  men  had  en- 
camped for  the  night,  would  keep  aloof  until  very  late,  when 
all  should  be  asleep.  They  would  then,  according  to  Indian 
tactics,  make  their  stealthy  approaches,  and  place  themselves 
in  ambush  around,  preparatory  to  their  attack  at  the  usual 
hour  of  daylight. 

Such  was  Captain  Bonneville's  conclusion ;  in  consequence 
of  which,  he  counselled  his  men  to  keep  perfectly  quiet,  and 
act  as  if  free  fi-om  alarm,  until  the  prijper  time  arrived  for  a 
movement.  They,  accordingly,  continued  their  repast  with 
pretended  appetite  and  jollity;  and  then  trimmed  and  re- 
plenished their  fire,  as  if  .for  a  bivouac.  As  soon,  however,  as 
the  night  had  completely  set  in,  they  left  their  fire  blazing, 
walked  quietly  amoiig  the  willows,  and  then  leaping  into  their 
saddles,  made  off  as  noiselessly  as  possible.  In  pro])(»rtion  as 
they  left  the  point  of  danger  behind  them,  the^^  relaxed  in 
their  rigid  and  anxious  taciturnity,  and  began  to  joke  at  the 
expense  of  their  enemy,  whom  they  pictiu-ed  to  themselves 
mousing  in  the  neighborhood  of  their  deserted  fire,  waiting  for 
the  proper  time  of  attack,  and  preparing  for  a  grand  dis- 
appointment. 

About  midnight,  feeling  satisfied  that  they  had  gained  a 
secure  distance,  they  posted  one  of  their  number  to  keep 
watch,  in  case  the  enemy  should  follow  on  their  trail,  and 
then,  turning  abruptly  into  a  dense  and  matted  thicket  of 
willows,  halted  for  the  night  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  in- 
stead of  making  for  the  summit,  as  they  had  originally  in- 
tended. 

A  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  like  a  sailor  on  the  ocean, 
snatches  morsels  of  enjoyment  in  the  midst  of  trouble,  and 
sleeps  soundly  when  siuTOunded  by  danger.  The  little  party 
now  made  their  arrangements  for  sleep  with  perfect  calmness; 
tho}""  did  not  venture  to  make  a  fire  and  cook,  it  is  true,  though 
generally  done  by  hunters  whenever  they  come  to  a  halt,  and 
have  provisions.  They  comforted  themselves,  however,  by 
smoking  a  tranquil  pipe;  and  then  calling  in  the  watch,  and 
turning  loose  the  horses,  stretched  themselves  on  their  pallets, 
agreed  that  whoever  shoiUd  first  awake  should  rouse  the  rest, 
and  in  a  little  while  were  all  in  as  sound  sleep  as  though  in  the 
midst  of  a  fortress. 

A  little  before  day,  they  were  all  on  the  alert ;  it  was  the 


166         ADVIC^TUIIES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

hour  for  Indian  maraud.  A  sentinel  was  immediately  de- 
tached, to  post  himself  at  a  little  distance  on  their  trail,  and 
give  the  alarm,  should  he  see  or  hear  an  enemy. 

With  the  first  blink  of  dawn  the  rest  sought  the  horses, 
brought  them  to  the  camp,  and  tied  them  up  until  an  hour 
after  sunrise,  when,  the  sentinel  having  reported  that  all  was 
well,  they  sprang  once  more  into  their  saddles,  and  pursued 
the  most  covert  and  secret  paths  up  the  mountain,  avoiding 
the  direct  route. 

At  noon  they  halted  and  made  a  hasty  repast,  and  then  bent 
their  course  so  as  to  regain  the  route  from  which  they  had 
diverged.  They  were  now  made  sensible  of  the  danger  from 
which  they  had  just  escaped.  There  were  tracks  of  Indians, 
who  had  evidently  been  in  pursuit  of  them,  but  had  recently 
returned,  baffled  in  their  search. 

Trusting  that  they  had  now  got  a  fair  start,  and  could  not 
be  overtaken  before  night,  even  in  case  the  Indians  should  re- 
new the  chase,  they  pushed  briskly  forward,  and  did  not  en- 
camp until  late,  when  they  cautiously  concealed  themselves  in 
a  secure  nook  of  the  momitains. 

Without  any  further  alarm,  they  made  their  way  to  the 
head- waters  of  Wind  River ;  and  i-eached  the  neighborhood  in 
which  they  had  appointed  the  rendezvous  with  their  com- 
panions. It  was  within  the  precincts  of  the  Crow  country; 
the  Wind  River  valley  being  one  of  the  favorite  haunts  of  that 
restless  tribe.  After  much  searching,  Captain  Bonneville  came 
upon  a  trail  which  had  evidently  been  made  by  his  main  party. 
It  was  so  old,  however,  that  he  feared  his  people  might  have 
left  the  neighborhood ;  driven  off,  perhaps,  by  some  of  those 
war  parties  which  were  on  the  prowl.  He  continued  his 
search  with  great  anxiety,  and  no  little  fatigue ;  for  his  horses 
were  jaded,  and  almost  crippled,  by  their  forced  marches  and 
scramblings  through  rocky  defiles. 

On  the  following  day,  about  noon,  Captain  BonneviUe  came 
upon  a  deserted  camp  of  his  people,  from  which  they  had  evi- 
dently turned  back;  but  he  could  find  no  signs  to  indicate 
why  they  had  done  so ;  whether  they  had  met  with  misfortune, 
or  molestation,  or  in  what  direction  they  had  gone.  He  was 
now  more  than  ever  perplexed. 

On  the  following  day  he  resumed  his  march  with  increasing 
anxiety.  The  feet  of  his  horses  had  by  this  time  become  so 
worn  and  wounded  by  the  rocks,  that  he  had  to  make  mocca- 
sins for  them  of  bufiEalo  hide.    About  noon  he  came  to  another 


ADVhWTLIlh-S  OF  CAPJAJy  liO^^MiVlLLl-:.         ](;7 

deserted  camp  of  his  men ;  but  soon  after  lost  their  trail.  After 
great  search,  he  once  more  found  it,  turning  in  a  southerly  di- 
rection along  the  eastern  bases  of  the  Wind  Kiver  Mountains, 
wliich  towered  to  the  right.  He  now  pushed  forward  with  all 
possible  speed,  in  hopes  of  overtaking  the  party.  At  niglit  ho 
slept  at  another  of  their  camps,  from  which  they  had  but  re- 
ccntly  departed.  When  the  day  dawned  sufficiently  to  distin- 
guish objects,  he  perceived  the  danger  that  must  be  dogging 
the  heels  of  his  main  party.  All  about  the  camp  were  traces 
of  Indians  who  must  have  been  prowlmg  about  it  at  the  time 
his  people  had  passed  the  night  there ;  and  who  must  still  be 
hovering  about  them.  Convinced  now  that  the  mam  party 
could  not  be  at  any  great  distance,  he  mounted  a  scout  on  the 
best  horse,  and  sent  him  forward  to  overtake  them,  to  warn 
them  of  their  danger,  and  to  order  them  to  halt,  until  he  should 
rejoin  them. 

In  the  afternoon,  to  his  great  joy,  he  met  the  scout  return- 
ing, with  six  comrades  from  the  main  party,  leading  fresh 
horses  for  his  accommodation ;  and  on  the  following  day  (Sep- 
tember 25th),  all  hands  were  once  more  reunited,  after  a  sepa- 
ration of  nearly  three  weeks.  Their  meeting  was  hearty  and 
joyous ;  for  they  had  both  experienced  dangers  and  perplexi- 
ties. 

The  main  party,  in  pursuing  their  course  Tip  the  Wind  River 
valley,  had  been  dogged  the  whole  way  hy  a  Avar  part}'  of 
Crows.  In  one  place  they  had  been  fired  upon,  but  without 
injury;  in  another  place,  one  of  their  horses  had  been  cut 
loose,  and  carried  off.  At  length,  they  were  so  closely  l)cset 
that  they  were  obliged  to  make  a  retrograde  move,  lest  they 
should  be  surprised  and  overcome.  This  was  the  movement 
■which  had  caused  such  perplexity  to  Captain  Bonneville, 

The  whole  party  now  remained  encamped  for  two  or  three 
days,  to  give  repose  to  both  men  and  horees.  Some  of  the 
trai^pei's,  however,  pui-sued  their  vocations  about  the  neigh- 
boring streams.  While  one  of  them  was  setting  his  traps,  he 
heard  the  tramj)  of  horses,  and  loolcing  up,  beheld  a  party  of 
Crow  braves  moving  along  at  no  great  distance,  with  a  consid- 
erable cavalcade.  The  trapper  hastened  to  conceal  himself, 
but  was  discerned  by  the  quick  eye  of  the  savages.  With 
whoops  and  yells,  they  dragged  him  from  his  hiding-place, 
flourished  over  his  head  their  tomahawks  and  sealping-knivee, 
and  for  a  time  the  poor  trapper  gave  himself  up  for  lost.  For- 
timntely  the  Crows  were  in  a  jocose  rather  th.an  a  sanguinary 


ICS       AnvKyrunics  of  captain  bonneville. 

mood.  They  amused  themselves  heartily  for  a  while  at  the 
expense  of  his  terrors,  and  after  having  played  oft"  divers 
Crow  pranks  and  pleasantries,  suffered  him  to  depart  un- 
harmed. It  is  true,  they  stripped  him  completely,  one  tak- 
ing his  horse,  another  his  gun,  a  third  his  traps,  a  fourth 
his  blanket,  and  so  on  through  all  his  accoutrements,  and  even 
his  clothing,  until  he  was  stark  naked ;  but  then  they  genei"- 
ou  ly  made  him  a  present  of  an  old  tattered  buffalo  robe,  and 
dismissed  him,  with  many  v.  Dmplimentary  speeches  and  much 
laughter.  When  the  trapper  returned  to  the  camp  in  such 
sorry  plight,  he  was  greeted  with  peals  of  laughter  from  his 
comrades,  and  seemed  more  mortified  by  the  style  in  which  he 
had  been  dismissed,  than  rejoiced  at  escaping  with  his  life.  A 
circumstance  which  he  related  to  Captain  Bonneville  gave 
some  insight  into  the  cause  of  this  extreme  jocularity  on  the 
part  of  the  Crows.  They  had  evidently  had  a  jun  of  luck, 
and,  like  winnmg  gamblers,  were  in  high  good  humor.  Among 
twenty-six  fine  horses,  and  some  mules,  which  composed  their 
cavalcade,  the  trap^^sr  recognized  a  number  which  had  be- 
longed to  Fitzpatrick's  brigade,  when  they  parted  company  on 
the  Bighorn.  It  was  supposed,  therefore,  that  these  vaga- 
bonds had  been  on  his  trail,  and  robbed  him  of  part  of  his 
cavalry. 

On  the  day  following  this  affair,  three  Crows  came  into  Cap- 
tain Bonneville's  camp,  with  the  most  easy,  innocent,  if  not 
impudent  air  imaginable;  walking  about  with  that  impertur- 
bable coolness  and  unconcern  in  which  the  Indian  rivals  the 
fine  gentleman.  As  they  had  not  been  of  the  set  which 
stripped  the  trapper,  though  evidently  of  the  same  band, 
they  were  not  molested.  Indeed,  Captain  Bonneville  treated 
them  with  his  usual  kindness  and  hospitality ;  permitting  them 
to  remain  all  day  in  the  cami),  and  even  to  pass  the  night 
there.  At  the  same  time,  however,  he  caused  a  strict  watch 
to  be  maintained  on  all  their  movements  and  at  night  sta- 
tioned an  armed  sentinel  near  them.  The  Crows  remonstrated 
against  the  latter  being  armed.  This  only  made  the  captain 
suspect  them  to  be  spies,  who  meditated  treachery;  he  re- 
doubled, therefore,  his  precautions.  At  the  same  time  he  as- 
sured his  guests  that  while  they  were  perfectly  welcome  to  the 
shelter  and  comfort  of  his  camp,  yet,  should  any  of  their  tribe 
venture  to  approach  during  the  night,  they  would  certainly  be 
shot,  which  Avould  be  a  xerj  unfortunate  circumstance,  and 
much  to  be  deplored.      To  the  latter  x*emark  they  fully  as- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         HJQ 

sen  ted,  and  shoi'tly  aftiTward  commenced  a  wild  song  or 
chant,  which  they  kept  up  for  a  Ion;:;  time,  and  in  which 
thoy  very  probably  gave  tlioir  friends,  who  might  be  prowl- 
ing round  the  camp,  notice  that  the  white  men  were  on  the 
alert.  The  night  passed  away  without  disturbance.  In  the 
morning  the  three  Crow  guests  were  very  pressing  that  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  and  his  party  should  accompany  them  to  their 
camp,  which  they  said  was  close  by.  Instead  of  accepting 
their  invitation  Captain  Bonneville  took  his  departure  with 
all  possible  dispatch,  eager  to  be  out  of  the  vicinity  of  such 
a  piratical  horde;  nor  did  he  relax  ihe  diligence  of  his  march 
until,  on  the  second  day,  he  reached  the  banks  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Crow  country,  and  a  heavy 
fall  of  snow  had  obliterated  aU  traces  of  his  course. 

He  now  continued  on  for  some  few  days,  at  a  slower  pace, 
round  the  point  of  the  mountain  towai'd  Green  River,  and  ar- 
rived once  more  at  the  caches,  on  the  14th  of  October. 

Here  they  found  traces  of  the  band  of  Indians  who  had 
hunted  them  in  the  defile  toward  the  head-waters  of  Wind 
River.  Having  lost  all  trace  of  them  on  their  way  over  the 
mountains,  they  had  turned  and  followed  back  their  trail 
down  the  Green  River  valley  to  the  caches.  One  of  these 
they  had  discovered  and  broken  open,  but  it  fortimately  con- 
tained nothing  b\it  fragments  of  old  iron,  which  thoy  had 
scattered  about  in  all  directions,  and  then  dopnrted.  In  e.v- 
amining  their  deserted  camp,  Captain  Bonneville  discovered 
that  it  numbered  thirty-nine  fires,  and  had  more  reason  than 
ever  to  congratulate  himself  on  having  escaped  the  clutches  of 
such  a  formidable  band  of  freebooters. 

He  now  turned  his  course  southward,  imder  cover  of  the 
mountains,  and  on  the  25th  of  October  reached  Libergo's  Ford, 
a  tributary  of  the  Coloi-ado,  where  he  came  suddenly  upon  the 
trail  of  this  same  war  ])arty,  Avhich  had  crossed  the  stream  so 
recently  that  the  banks  wore  yet  wet  with  the  water  that  had 
been  splashed  upon  them..  To  judge  from  their  tracks,  they 
could  not  be  less  than  three  hundred  warriors,  and  a])parsntly 
of  the  Crow  nation. 

Ca])tain  Bonneville  was  extremely  uneasy  lest  this  over- 
powering force  should  come  upon  him  in  some  place  where  he 
would  not  have  the  means  of  fortifying  himself  promptly.  He 
now  moved  toward  Hane's  Fork,  another  tributary  of  the  Col- 
orado, where  he  encamped,  and  remained  durmg  the  26th  of 
October.    Seeing  a  large  cloud  of  smoke  to  the  south,  he  nip- 


170         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

posed  it  to  arise  from  some  encampment  of  Shoshonies,  and 
sent  scouts  to  procure  information,  and  to  purchase  a  lodge. 
It  was,  in  fact,  a  band  of  Shoshonies,  but  with  them  were  en- 
camped Fitzpatrick  and  his  party  of  trappers.  That  active 
leader  had  an  eventful  story  to  relate  of  his  fortunes  in  the 
country  of  the  Crows.  After  parting  with  Captain  Bomieville 
on  the  banks  of  the  Bighorn,  he  made  for  the  west,  to  trap 
upon  Powder  and  Tongue  Rivers.  He  had  between  twenty 
and  thirty  men  wath  him,  and  about  one  hundred  horses.  So 
large  a  cavalcade  could  not  pass  through  the  Crow  countiy 
without  attracting  the  attention  of  its  f  reebooting  hordes.  A 
large  band  of  Crows  were  soon  on  their  traces,  and  came  up 
with  them  on  the  5th  of  September,  just  as  they  had  reached 
Tongue  Eiver.  The  Crow  chief  came  forward  with  great  ap- 
pearance of  friendship,  and  proposed  to  Fitzpatrick  that  they 
should  encamp  together.  The  latter,  however,  not  having  any 
faith  in  Crows,  declined  the  invitation,  and  pitcTied  his  camp 
three  miles  off.  He  then  rode  over  with  two  or  three  men,  to 
visit  the  Crow  chief,  by  whom  he  was  received  with  great  ap- 
parent cordiahty.  In  the  meantime,  however,  a  party  of 
young  braves,  who  considered  them  absolved  by  his  distrust 
from  all  scruples  of  honor,  made  a  circuit  privately,  and 
dashed  into  his  encampmeni.  Captain  Stewart,  who  had  re- 
mained there  in  the  absence  of  Fitzpatrick,  behaved  with  great 
spirit ;  but  the  Crows  were  too  numerous  and  active.  They 
had  got  possession  of  the  camp,  and  soon  made  booty  of  every- 
thing— carrying  off  all  the  horses.  On  their  way  back  they 
met  Fitzpatrick  returning  to  his  camp ;  and  finished  their  ex- 
ploit by  rifling  and  nearly  stripping  him. 

A  negotiation  took  place  between  the  plundered  white  men 
and  the  triumphant  Crows ;  what  eloquence  and  management 
Fitzpatrick  made  use  of  we  do  not  know,  but  he  succeeded  in 
prevaihng  upon  the  Crow  chieftain  to  return  him  his  horses 
and  many  of  his  traps,  together  with  his  rifles  and  a  few 
rounds  of  ammunition  for  each  man.  He  then  set  out  with  all 
speed  to  abandon  the  Crow  country,  before  he  should  meet 
with  any  fresh  disasters. 

After  his  departure,  the  consciences  of  some  of  the  most 
orthodox  Crows  pricked  them  sorely  for  ha\dng  suffered  such 
a  cavalcade  to  escape  out  of  their  hands.  Anxious  to  wipe  off 
so  foul  a  stigma  on  the  reputation  ot  the  Crow  nation,  they 
followed  on  his  trail,  nor  quit  hovering  about  him  on  his 
inarch  until  they  had  stolen  a,  number  of  his  best  horses  and 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         17[ 

mules.  It  was,  doubtless,  this  same  band  which  came  u]ion 
the  lonely  trapper  on  the  Popo  Apie,  and  generously  gave  him 
an  old  bulfalo  robe  in  exchange  for  his  rifle,  his  traps,  and  all 
his  accoutrements.  With  these  anecdotes,  we  shall,  for  the 
present,  take  our  leave  of  the  Crow  country  and  its  vagabond 
chivalry. 


I 


CHAPTER  XXVni. 

A  REGION  OF  NATURAL  CURIOSITIES— THE  PLAIN  OP  WHITE  CLAY 
— HOT  SPRINGS— THE  BEER  SPRING  — DEPARTURE  TO  SEEK  THE 
FREE  TRAPPERS — PLAIN  OF  PORTNEUF — LAVA— CHASMS  AND 
GULLIES— BANNECK  INDIANS— TFIEIR  HUNT  OF  THE  BUFFALO— 
HUNTERS'  FEAST  —  TRENCHER  HEROES  —  BULLYING  OF  AN  AB- 
SENT FOE— THE  DA3IP  COMRADE  —  THE  INDIAN  SPY  —  MEETING 
WITH  HODGKISS  — HIS  ADVENTURES  —  POORDEVIL  INDIANS  — 
TRIUMPH  OF  THE  BANNECKS— BLACKFEET  POLICY    IN  WAR, 

Crossing  an  elevated  ridge,  Captain  Bonneville  now  came 
Upon  Bear  River,  which,  from  its  source  to  its  entrance  into 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  describes  the  figures  of  a  horse-shoe. 
One  of  the  principal  head  waters  of  this  river,  although  sup- 
posed to  abound  with  beaver,  has  never  been  visited  by  the 
trapper;  rising  among  rugged  mountains,  and  being  barri- 
cadoed  by  fallen  pine  trees  and  tremendous  precipices. 

Proceeding  down  this  river,  the  party  encamped,  on  the  Gth 
of  November,  at  the  outlet  of  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  long, 
and  from  two  to  three  miles  in  width,  completely  imbedded  in 
low  ranges  of  mountains,  and  connected  with  Bear  River  by 
nn  impassable  swamp.  It  is  called  the  Little  Lake,  to  distin- 
(juish  it  from  tlie  great  one  of  salt  water. 

On  the  10th  of  November,  Cq^tain  Bonneville  visited  a  ]ilace 
in  the  neighborhood  which  is  quite  a  region  of  natural  cin-iosi- 
ties.  An  area  of  about  half  a  mile  square  presents  a  level  sur- 
face of  white  clay  or  fuller's  earth,  perfectly  spotless,  resem- 
bling a  great  slab  of  Parian  marble,  or  a  sheot  of  dazzling 
snow.  The  effect  is  strikingly  b(^autiful  at  all  times;  in  sum- 
mer, when  it  is  surrounded  with  verdure,  or  in  autiunn.  when 
it  contrasts  its  bright  inunaculate  surface  with  the  witiiered 
herbage.  Seen  from  a  distant  eminence,  it  then  shines  like  .a 
nii.ror,  set  in  the  l)'.-o>vn  landscape     Aro'.ind   tbi-^  plain  rro 


172         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

clustered  numerous  springs  of  various  sizes  and  temperatures. 
One  of  them  of  scalding  heat,  boils  furiously  and  incessantly, 
rising  to  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet.  In  another  place  there 
is  an  aperture  in  the  earth  from  which  rushes  a  column  of 
steam  that  forms  a  perpetual  cloud.  The  ground  for  some  dis- 
tance ai'ound  sounds  hollow,  and  startles  the  solitary  trapper, 
as  he  hears  the  tramp  of  his  horse  giving  the  sound  of  a 
muffled  drum.  He  pictures  to  himself  a  mysterious  gulf  be- 
low, a  place  of  hidden  fires,  and  gazes  round  him  with  awe  and 
uneasiness. 

The  most  noted  curiosity,  however,  of  this  singular  region  is 
the  Beer  Spring,  of  which  trappers  give  wonderful  accounts. 
They  are  said  to  turn  aside  from  their  route  through  tha 
country  to  drink  of  its  waters,  with  as  much  eagerness  as  the 
Arab  seeks  some  famous  well  of  the  desert.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville describes  it  as  having  the  taste  of  beer.  His  men  drank 
it  with  avidity,  and  in  copious  draughts.  It  did  not  appear  to 
him  to  possess  any  medicinal  properties,  or  to  produce  any 
peculiar  effects.  The  Indians,  however,  refuse  to  taste  it,  and 
endeavor  to  persuade  the  white  men  from  doing  so. 

We  have  heard  this  also  called  the  Soda  Spring,  and  de- 
scribed as  containing  iron  and  sulphur.  It  probably  possesses 
some  of  the  properties  of  the  Ballston  water. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  for  Captain  Bonneville  to  go  in 
quest  of  the  party  of  free  trappers,  detached  in  the  beginning 
of  July,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Hodgkiss  to  trap  upon  the 
head  waters  of  Salmon  River.  His  intention  was  to  unite 
them  with  the  party  with  which  he  was  at  present  travelling, 
that  all  might  go  into  quarters  together  for  the  winter.  Ac- 
cordingly, on  the  11th  of  November,  he  took  a  temporary 
leave  of  his  band,  appointing  a  rendezvous  on  Snake  River, 
and,  accompanied  by  three  men,  set  out  upon  his  journey.  His 
route  lay  across  the  plain  of  the  Portneuf ,  a  tributary  stream 
of  Snake  River,  called  after  an  unfortunate  Canadian  trapper 
murdered  by  the  Indians.  The  whole  country  through  which 
he  passed,  bore  evidence  of  volcanic  convulsions  and  confla- 
grations in  the  olden  time.  Great  masses  or  lava  lay  scattered 
about  in  every  direction :  the  crags  and  cliffs  had  apparently 
been  imder  the  action  of  fire;  the  rocks  in  some  places  seemed 
to  have  been  in  a  state  of  fusion ;  the  plain  was  rent  and  split 
with  deep  chasms  and  gullies,  some  of  which  were  partly  filled 
with  lava. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  they  saw  a 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         173 

party  of  horsemen  galloping  fiill  tilt  toward  thoni.  Tliey 
instantly  turned,  and  made  full  speed  for  the  covert  of  a 
woody  stream,  to  fortify  themselves  among  the  trees.  The 
Indians  came  to  a  halt,  and  one  of  them  came  forward  alone. 
He  reached  Captain  I>onne\allo  and  his  men  just  as  they  were 
dismoimting  and  about  to  post  themselves.  A  few  words 
dispelled  all  uneasiness.  It  was  a  party  of  twentj'-five  Ban- 
neck  Indians,  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  they  proposed, 
through  their  envoy,  that  both  parties  should  encamp  to- 
gether, and  hunt  the  buffalo,  of  which  they  had  discovered 
several  large  herds  hard  by.  Ca]itain  Bonneville  cheerfully 
assented  to  their  i^roposition,  being  curious  to  see  theii*  man- 
ner of  hunting. 

Both  parties  accordingly  encamped  together  on  a  convenient 
spot,  and  prepared  for  the  hunt.  The  Indians  first  posted  a 
boy  on  a  small  hill  near  the  camp,  to  keep  a  lookout  for 
eneinies.  The  "runners,"  then,  as  they  are  called,  mounted 
on  fleet  horses,  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  moved 
slowly  and  cautiously  toward  the  buifalo,  keejiing  as  much  as 
possible  out  of  sight,  in  hollows  and  ravines.  When  within 
a  proper  distance,  a  signal  was  given,  and  they  all  opened  at 
once  like  a  pack  of  hounds,  with  a  full  chorus  of  yells,  dashing 
into  the  midst  of  the  herds,  and  launching  their  arrows  to  the 
right  and  left.  The  plain  seemed  absolutely  to  shake  under 
the  tramp  of  the  bullalo,  as  they  scoured  off.  The  cows  in 
headlong  panic,  the  buUs  furious  with  rage,  uttering  deep 
roars,  and  occasionally  turning  with  a  desperate  rush  iipon 
their  pursuers.  Nothing  could  sm-pass  the  sjiirit,  grace,  and 
dexterity,  with  which  the  Indians  managed  their  horses; 
wheeling  and  coursing  among  the  affrighted  herd,  and  launch- 
ing their  arrows  with  unerring  aim.  In  the  midst  of  the 
apparent  confusion,  they  selected  their  victims  with  perfect 
judgment,  generally  aiming  at  the  fattest  of  the  cows,  the 
flesh  of  the  bull  being  nearly  worthless  at  this  season  oi'  the 
year.  In  a  few  minutes,  each  of  the  hunters  had  crip])led 
three  or  four  cows.  A  single  shot  was  suflicient  for  llie  pur- 
pose, and  the  animal,  once  maimed,  was  left  to  be  comjilelely 
dispatched  at  the  end  of  the  chase.  Frequently  a  cow  was 
killed  on  the  spot  by  a  single  arrow.  In  one  instance,  Captain 
Bonneville  saw  an  Indian  shoot  his  arrow  completely  through 
the  body  of  a  cow,  so  that  it  struck  in  the  ground  beyond. 
The  bulls,  however,  are  not  so  easily  killed  as  the  cows,  and 
always  cost  the  hunter  several  arrows,  sometimes  making 


174         ADVKXTURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

battle  upon  tlic  horses,  and  cbasinp;  them  furiously,  thoTigh 
sevtMvly  wounded,  with  the  darts  still  sticking  in  their  fl(>sh. 

The  grand  scamper  of  the  hunt  being  over,  the  Indians 
proceeded  to  dispatch  the  animals  that  had  been  disabled; 
then  cutting  up  the  carcasses,  they  returned  with  loads  of 
meat  to  the  camp,  where  the  choicest  pieces  were  soon  roast- 
ing before  large  fires,  and  a  hunters'  feast  succeeded ;  at  which 
Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  were  quahfied,  by  previous 
fasting,  to  perform  their  parts  with  ^reat  vigor. 

Some  men  are  said  to  wax  valorous  upon  a  full  stomach, 
and  such  seemed  to  be  the  case  with  the  Lanneck  braves, 
who,  in  proportion  as  they  crannned  themselves  with  buffalo 
meat,  grew  stout  of  heart,  until,  the  supper  at  an  end,  they 
began  to  chant  war  songs,  setting  forth  their  mighty  deeds, 
and  the  victories  they  had  gained  over  the  Blackfeet.  Warm- 
ing with  the  theme,  and  inflating  themselves  with  their  own 
eulogies,  these  magnanimous  heroes  of  the  trencher  would 
start  up,  advance  a  short  distance  beyond  the  light  of  the 
fires,  and  apostrophize  most  vehemently  their  Blackfeet 
enemies,  as  though  they  had  been  within  hearing.  Ruffling 
and  swelling,  and  snorting,  and  slapping  their  breasts,  and 
brandishing  their  arms,  thoy  would  vociferate  all  their  ex- 
ploits; reminding  the  Blackfeet  how  thoy  had  drenched  tlieir 
tov/ns  in  tears  and  blood;  enumerate  the  blows  they  had 
inflicted,  the  warriors  they  had  slain,  the  scalps  they  had 
brought  off  in  triumph.  Then,  having  said  everything  that 
coifld  stir  a  man's  spleen  or  pique  his  valor,  they  would  dare 
their  imaginary  hearers,  now  that  the  Bannecks  were  few^  in 
number,  to  come  and  take  their  revenge — receiving  no  rej^ly 
to  this  valorous  bravado,  they  would  conclude  by  all  kinds  of 
sneers  and  insults,  deriding  the  Blackfeet  for  dastards  and 
poltroons,  that  dared  not  accept  their  challenge.  Such  is  the 
kind  of  swaggering  and  I'hodomontade  in  which  the  "red 
men"  are  prone  to  indulge  in  their  vainglorious  moments ;  for, 
with  all  their  vaunted  taciturnity,  they  are  vehemently  prone 
at  times  to  become  eloquent  about  their  exploits,  and  to  sound 
their  own  trimipet. 

Having  vented  their  valor  in  this  fierce  effervescence,  the 
Banneck  braves  gradually  calmed  down,  lowered  their  crests, 
smootluMl  their  ruffled  feathere,  and  betook  themselves  to 
sleep,  without  placing  a  single  guai'd  over  their  camp;  so  that, 
had  the  Blackfeet  taken  them  at  their  word,  but  few  of  these 
braggart  heroes  might  have  survived  for  any  further  boasting. 


ADVKNrURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         175 

On  the  following  morning,  Captain  Bonneville  purchased  a 
supply  of  butfnlo  meat  from  his  braggadocio  friends;  who, 
with  all  their  vaporing,  were  in  fact  a  very  forlorn  horde, 
destitute  of  firearms,  and  of  almost  everything  that  consti- 
tiites  riches  in  savage  life.  The  bargain  concluded,  the  Ban- 
necks  set  off  for  their  village,  which  was  situated,  they  said, 
at  the  minith  of  the  Portneuf,  and  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
com]ianions  shaped  their  course  toward  Snake  River. 

Arrived  on  the  banks  of  that  river,  he  found  it  ra]^id  and 
boisterous,  but  not  too  deep  to  be  forded.  In  traversing  it.  how- 
ever, one  of  the  horses  was  swept  suddenly  from  his  footing, 
and  his  rider  was  tlung  from  the  saddle  into  the  midst  of  the 
stream.  Both  horse  and  horseman  were  extricated  without  any 
damage,  excepting  that  the  latter  was  completely  drenched,  so 
that  it  was  necessary  to  kindle  a  lire  to  dry  him.  While  they 
were  thus  occupied,  one  of  the  party  looking  up,  perceived  an 
Indian  scout  cautioiisly  reconnoitring  them  irom  the  sununit 
of  a  neighboring  hill.  The  moment  he  found  himself  discov- 
ered, he  disappeared  behind  the  hill.  From  liis  furtive  move- 
ments, Captain  Bonneville  suspected  him  to  be  a  scout  from 
the  Blackfeet  camj),  and  that  he  had  gone  to  report  what  he 
had  seen  to  his  companions.  It  woidd  not  do  to  loiter  in  such 
a  neighborhood,  so  the  kindling  of  the  fire  was  abandoned,  the 
drenched  horseman  mounted  in  drip]iing  condition,  and  the 
little  band  pushed  fcn-Avnrd  directly  into  the  jtlain.  going  at  a 
smart  pace,  luUil  they  had  gained  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  place  of  supposed  danger.  Here  encamping  for  the  night, 
in  the  midst  of  abundance  of  sage,  or  wormwood,  which  af- 
forded fodder  for  their  horses,  they  kindled  a  huge  fire  for  the 
benefit  of  their  damp  comrade,  and  then  proceeded  to  prepare  a 
s\unptuous  siuiper  of  buffalo  humps  and  ribs,  and  other  choice 
bits,  which  they  had  brought  ^\^th  them.  After  a  hearty  re- 
past, relished  with  an  appetite  unknown  to  city  e])icures,  tbey 
stretched  themselves  upon  their  couches  of  skins,  and  mid(>r 
the  starry  canopy  of  heaven,  enjoyed  the  sound  anil  sweet  sleep 
of  hardy  and  well-fed  mountaineers. 

They  continued  on  their  journey  for  several  days,  without 
any  incident  worthy  of  notice,  and  on  the  19th  of  November, 
came  upo.i  traces  of  the  party  of  which  they  were  in  search; 
such  as  burned  patches  of  prairie,  and  deserted  camping 
grounds.  All  these  w(>re  carefully  examined,  to  discover,  by 
their  freshness  or  antiiiuity  the  probable  time  that  the  trap- 
pers had  left  them;  at  length,  after  much  Avandering  and  in- 


376         ADVENTUllES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONMCVILLE. 

vcstigating,  they  came  upon  the  regular  trail  of  the  hunting 
party,  which  led  into  the  mountains,  and  following  it  up 
briskly,  came  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  20th, 
upon  the  encampment  of  Hodgkiss  and  liis  band  of  free  trap- 
pers, in  the  bosom  of  a  mountain  valley. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  these  free  trappers,  who  were 
masters  of  themselves  and  their  movements,  had  refused  to 
accompany  Captain  Bonneville  back  to  Green  River  in  the 
preceding  month  of  July,  preferring  to  trap  about  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Salmon  River,  where  they  expected  to  find 
plenty  of  beaver,  and  a  less  dangerous  neighborhood.  Their 
hunt  had  not  been  very  successful.  They  had  penetrated  the 
great  range  of  mountains  among  which  some  of  the  upper 
branches  of  Salmon  River  take  their  rise,  but  had  become  so 
entangled  among  immense  and  almost  impassable  barricades 
of  fallen  pines,  and  so  impeded  by  tremendous  precipices,  that 
a  great  part  of  their  season  had  been  wasted  among  these 
mountains.  At  one  time  they  had  made  their  way  through 
them,  and  reached  the  Boisee  River ;  but  meeting  with  a  band 
of  Banneck  Indians,  from  whom  they  apprehended  hostilities, 
they  had  again  taken  shelter  among  the  moimtains,  where 
they  were  found  by  Captain  Bonneville.  In  the  neighborhood 
of  their  encampment,  the  captain  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet 
with  a  family  of  those  wanderers  of  the  mountains,  emphatically 
called  "les  dignej  de  pitie,"  or  Poordevil  Indians.  These,  hoAv- 
ever,  appear  to  have  forfeited  the  title,  for  they  had  with  them 
a  fine  lot  of  skins  of  beaver,  elk,  deer,  and  mountain  sheep. 
These,  Captain  Bonneville  purchased  from  them  at  a  fair  valua- 
tion, and  sent  them  off  astonished  at  their  own  Avealth,  and  no 
doubt  objects  of  envj-  to  all  their  pitiful  tribe. 

Being  now  reinforced  by  Hodgkiss  and  his  band  of  free  trap- 
pers. Captain  Bonneville  put  himself  at  the  head  of  the- united 
parties,  and  set  out  to  rejoin  those  he  had  recently  left  at  the 
Beer  Spring  that  they  might  all  go  into  winter  quarters  on 
Snake  River.  On  this  route,  he  encountered  many  heavy  falls 
of  snow,  which  melted  almost  immediately,  so  as  not  to  impede 
his  march,  and  on  the  4th  of  December,  he  found  his  other 
party,  encamped  at  the  very  place  where  he  had  partaken  in 
the  buffalo  hunt  with  the  Bannecks. 

That  braggart  horde  was  encamped  but  about  three  miles  off, 
and  were  just  then  in  high  glee  and  festivity,  and  more  swag- 
gering than  ever,  celebrating  a  prodigious  victory.  It  appeared 
that  a  party  of  their  braves  being  out  on  a  hunting  excm-sion, 


ABVl'jyrURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         \'}J 

discovered  a  band  of  Blackfoet  moving,  as  they  thought,  to 
surprise  their  hunting  camp.  The  Bannecks  immediately- 
posted  themselves  on  each  side  of  a  dark  ravine,  throwgh 
which  the  enemy  must  pass,  and,  just  as  they  were  entangled 
in  the  midst  of  it,  attacked  them  with  great  fury.  The  Black- 
feet,  struck  with  sudden  panic,  threw  off  their  buffalo  robes 
and  fled,  leaving  one  of  their  warriors  dead  on  the  spot.  The 
victors  eagerly  gathered  up  the  spoils ;  but  their  greatest  prize 
was  the  scalp  of  the  Blackfoot  brave.  This  they  bore  off  in 
triumph  to  the  village,  where  it  had  ever  since  been  an  object 
of  the  greatest  exultation  and  rejoicing.  It  had  been  elevated 
upon  a  pole  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  where  the  warriors 
had  celebrated  the  scalp  dance  round  it,  with  war  feasts,  war 
songs,  and  warlike  harangues.  It  had  then  been  given  up  to 
the  women  and  boys ;  who  had  paraded  i  j  up  and  down  the 
village  with  shouts  and  chants  aiid  antic  dances;  occasionally 
saluting  it  with  all  kinds  of  taunts,  invectives,  and  revilingt;. 

The  Blackfeet,  in  this  affair,  do  not  appear  to  have  acted  up 
to  the  character  which  has  rendered  them  objects  of  such  ter- 
ror. Indeed,  their  conduct  in  war,  to  the  inexperienced  ob- 
server is  full  of  inconsistencies;  at  one  time  they  are  headlong 
in  courage,  and  heedless  of  danger;  a.t  another  time  cautious 
almost  to  cowardice.  To  understand  these  ap]")arent  incongni- 
ities,  one  must  know  their  principles  of  warfare.  A  war  party, 
however  triumphant,  if  they  lose  a  warrior  in  the  fight,  bring 
back  a  cause  of  mourning  to  their  people,  which  casts  a  shade 
over  the  glory  of  their  achievement.  Hence,  the  Indian  is 
often  less  fierce  and  reckless  in  general  battle  than  he  is  in  a 
private  brawl;  and  the  chiefs  are  checked  in  their  boldest  un- 
dertakings by  the  fear  of  sacrificing  their  Avarriors. 

This  peculiarity  is  not  confined  to  the  Blackfeet.  Among  the 
Osages,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  when  a  warrior  falls  in  battle, 
his  comrades,  though  they  have  fought  with  consummate  valor, 
and  won  a  glorious  victory,  will  leave  their  arms  upon  the  field 
of  battle,  and  returning  home  with  dejected  coimtenances,  will 
halt  without  the  encampment,  and  wait  until  the  relatives  of 
the  slain  come  forth  and  invite  them  to  mingle  again  with 
their  people. 


178         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

WINTER  CAMP  AT  TEE  PORTNEUF— FINE  SPRINGS— THE  BANNECK 
INDL\NS— THEIR  HONESTY— CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  PREPARES 
FOR  AN  EXPEDITION— CHRISTMAS -THE  AMERICAN  FALLS— WILD 
SCENERY — FISHING  FALLS — SNAKE  INDIANS — SCENERY  ON  THE 
BRUNEAU — VIEW  OF  VOLCANIC  COUNTRY  FROM  A  MOUNTAIN — 
POWDER  RIVER— SHOSHOKOES,  OR  ROOT  DIGGERS — THEIR  CHAR- 
ACTER, HABITS,  HABITATIONS,  DOGS — VANITY  AT  ITS  LAST  SHIFT. 

In  establishing  his  winter  camp  near  the  Portneuf.  Captain 
Bonneville  had  drawn  off  to  some  little  distance  from  his  Ban- 
neck  friends,  to  avoid  all  annoyance  from  their  intimacy  or 
intrusions.  In  so  doing,  however,  he  had  been  obliged  to  take 
up  his  quarters  on  the  extreme  edge  of  the  flat  land,  where  he 
was  encompassed  with  ice  and  snow,  and  had  nothing  better 
for  his  horses  to  subsist  on  than  wormwood.  The  Bannecks, 
on  the  contrary,  were  encamped  among  fine  springs  of  water, 
where  there  was  grass  in  abundance.  Some  of  these  springs 
gush  out  of  the  earth  in  sufficient  quantity  to  turn  a  mill ;  and 
furnish  beautiful  streams,  clear  as  crystal,  and  full  of  trout  of 
a  large  size ;  which  may  be  seen  darting  about  the  transparent 
water. 

Winter  now  set  in  regularly.  The  snow  had  fallen  fre- 
quently, and  in  large  quantities,  and  covered  the  ground  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot ;  and  the  continued  coldness  of  the  weather  pre- 
vented any  thaw. 

By  degrees,  a  distrust  which  at  first  subsisted  between  the 
Indians  and  the  trappers,  subsided,  and  gave  way  to  mutual 
confidence  and  good-will.  A  few  presents  convinced  the  chiefs 
that  the  wliite  men  were  their  friends;  nor  Avere  the  white  men 
wanting  in  proofs  of  the  honesty  and  good  faith  of  their  savage 
neighbors.  Occasionally,  the  deep  snow  and  the  want  of  fod- 
der obliged  them  to  turn  their  weakest  horses  out  to  roam  in 
quest  of  sustenance.  If  they  at  any  time  strayed  to  the  camp 
of  the  Bannecks,  they  were  immediately  brought  back.  It 
must  bo  confessed,  however,  that  if  the  stray  horse  happened, 
by  any  chance,  to  be  in  vigorous  plight  and  good  condition, 
though  he  was  equally  sure  to  be  returned  by  the  honest  Ban- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         179 

necks,  yet  it  was  always  aftci-  the  lapse  of  several  days,  and  in 
a  very  gaunt  and  jaded  state;  and  always  with  the  remark 
that  they  had  found  him  a  long  way  off.  The  unchnritnhle 
were  apt  to  surmise  that  he  liad,  in  tlie  interim,  been  well  tised 
up  in  a  buffalo  hunt ;  but  those  accustomed  to  Indian  morality 
in  the  matter  of  horseflesh,  considered  it  a  singular  evidence  of 
honesty  that  he  should  be  brought  back  at  all. 

Being  convinced,  therefore,  from  these,  and  other  circum- 
stances, that  his  people  were  encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of 
a  tribe  as  honest  as  they  were  vaUant,  and  satisfied  that  they 
would  pass  their  winter  unmolested,  Captain  Bonneville  pre- 
pared for  a  reconnoitring  expedition  of  great  extent  and  peril. 
This  was,  to  penetrate  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  establishments  on 
the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  and  to  make  himself  acquainted 
with  the  country  and  the  Indian  tribes;  it  being  one  part  of  his 
scheme  to  establish  a  trading  post  somewhere  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  river,  so  as  to  participate  in  the  trade  lost  to  the 
United  States  by  the  capture  of  Astoria.  This  expedition 
would,  of  course,  take  him  through  the  Snake  River  country, 
and  across  the  Blue  Momitains,  the  scenes  of  so  much  hardship 
and  disaster  to  Hunt  and  Crooks,  and  their  Astorian  bands, 
who  first  explored  it,  and  he  would  have  to  pass  through  it  in 
the  same  friglitful  season,  the  depth  of  winter. 

The  idea  of  risk  and  hardshi]i,  however,  only  served  to  stim- 
ulate the  adventurous  spirit  of  the  captain.  He  chose  three 
companions  for  his  journey,  put  up  a  small  stock  of  necessaries 
in  the  most  portable  form,  and  selected  five  horses  and  mules 
for  themselves  and  their  baggage.  He  proposed  to  rejoin  his 
band  in  the  early  part  of  March,  at  the  winter  encampment 
near  the  Portncnif.  All  these  arrangcrrents  being  completed, 
he  mounted  his  horse  on  Cliristmas  morning,  and  set  off  with 
his  three  comrades.  They  halted  a  little  beyond  tlie  Banneck 
camp,  and  made  their  Christmas  dinner,  which,  if  not  a  very 
merry,  was  a  very  hearty  one,  a  iter  which  they  resumed  their 
joiirney. 

They  were  obliged  to  travel  slowly,  to  spare  their  horses ;  for 
the  snow  had  increased  in  dei)th  to  eighteen  inches;  and 
though  somewhat  packed  and  frozen,  was  not  sufficiently  so  to 
yield  fii-m  footing.  Their  route  lay  to  the  west,  down  along 
the  left  side  of  Snake  Riv'er;  and  they  were  several  days  in 
reaching  the  first,  or  American  Falls.  The  Ixuiks  of  the  livor, 
for  a  considerable  distance,  both  above  and  below  the  falls, 
have  a  volcanic  character ;  masses  of  basaltic  rock  are  piled 


ISO         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

one  upon  another;  the  water  makes  its  way  through  their 
broken  chasms,  boihng  through  narrow  channels,  or  pitching 
in  beautiful  cascades  over  ridges  of  basaltic  columns. 

Beyond  these  falls,  they  came  to  a  picturesque,  but  incon- 
siderable stream,  called  the  Cassie.  It  runs  through  a  level 
valley,  about  four  miles  wide,  where  the  soil  is  good;  bat  the 
prevalent  coldness  and  dryness  of  the  climate  is  unfavoraljle  to 
vegetation.  Near  to  this  stream  there  is  a  small  mountain  of 
mica  slate,  including  garnets.  Granite,  in  small  blocks,  is 
likewise  seen  in  this  neighborhood,  and  white  sandstone. 
From  this  river,  the  traveUers  had  a  prospect  of  the  snowy 
heights  of  the  Salmon  River  Mountains  to  the  north;  the 
nearest,  at  least  fifty  mUes  distant. 

In  pursuing  his  course  westward.  Captain  Bonneville  gener- 
ally kept  several  miles  from  Snake  Eiver,  crossing  the  heads 
of  its  tributary  streams ;  though  he  often  found  the  open  coun- 
try so  encumbered  by  volcanic  rocks,  as  to  render  travelling 
extremely  difiicult.  Whenever  he  approached  Snake  River, 
he  found  it  running  through  a  broad  chasm,  with  steep,  per- 
pendicular sides  of  basaltic  rock.  After  several  days'  travel 
across  a  level  plain,  he  came  to  a  part  of  the  river  which  filled 
him  with  astonishment  and  admiration.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  the  river  was  walled  in  by  perpendicular  cliffs 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  liigh,  beetling  hke  dark  and  gloomy 
battlements,  while  blocks  and  fragments  lay  in  masses  at  their 
feet,  in  the  midst  of  the  boihng  and  wlxirling  current.  Just 
above,  the  whole  stream  pitched  in  one  cascade  above  forty 
feet  in  height,  with  a  thundering  sound,  casting  up  a  volume 
of  spray  that  hung  in  the  air  hke  a  silver  mist.  These  are 
called  by  some  the  Fishing  Falls,  as  the  salmon  are  taken  here 
in  immense  quantities.     They  cannot  get  by  these  falls. 

After  encamping  at  this  place  all  night.  Captain  Bonneville, 
at  sunrise,  descended  with  his  party  through  a  narrow  ravine, 
or  rather  crevice,  in  the  vast  wall  of  basaltic  rock  which  bor- 
dered the  river ;  this  being  the  only  mode,  for  many  miles,  of 
getting  to  the  margin  of  the  stream. 

The  snow  lay  in  a  thin  crust  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  so 
tliat  their  travelhng  was  much  more  easy  than  it  had  been 
hitherto.  There  were  foot  tracks,  also,  made  by  the  natives, 
which  greatly  facilitated  their  progress.  Occasionally,  they 
met  the  inhabitants  of  this  wUd  region ;  a  timid  race,  and  but 
scantily  provided  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  mantle  about  four  feet  square,  formed  of  strips  of 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE!.         lyi 

rabbit  skins  sewed  togethor;  this  therhun?  over  their  shoul- 
di^rs,  in  the  ordinary  Indian  mode  of  wearing  the  blank(>t. 
Their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows;  the  latter  tipi)('d  wjlh 
obsidian,  which  abounds  in  the  neighborhood.  Tlieir  huts  were 
shaped  hke  haystaclcs,  and  constructed  of  branches  of  willow 
covered  with  long  grass,  so  as  to  be  warm  and  comfortable. 
Occasionally,  they  were  surrounded  by  small  inclosures  of 
wormwood,  about  three  feet  high,  which  gave  them  a  cottage- 
like appearance.  Three  or  four  of  these  tenements  were  oc- 
casionally grouped  together  in  some  wild  and  striking  situa- 
tion, and  had  a  picturesque  effect.  Sometimes  they  were  in 
sufficient  number  to  form  a  small  hamlet.  From  these  people 
Captain  Bonneville's  party  frequently  purchased  salmon,  dried 
in  an  admirable  manner,  as*  were  likewise  the  roes.  This 
seemed  to  be  their  prime  article  of  food;  but  they  were  ex- 
tremely anxious  to  get  buffalo  meat  in  exchange. 

The  high  walls  and  rocks,  within  which  the  travellers  had 
been  so  long  inclosed,  now  occasionally  presented  openings, 
through  winch  they  were  enabled  to  ascend  to  the  plain,  and 
to  cut  off  considerable  bends  of  the  river. 

Throughout  the  whole  extent  of  this  vast  and  singular  chasm, 
the  scenery  of  the  river  is  said  to  be  of  the  most  \\'ild  and  ro- 
mantic character.  The  rocks  present  every  variety  of  masses 
and  grouping.  Niuncrous  small  streams  come  rushing  and 
boiling  through  narrow  clefts  and  ravines ;  one  of  a  considerable 
size  issued  from  the  face  of  a  i)recipice,  within  twenty- Five  feet 
of  its  summit;  and  after  running  in  nearly  a  horizontal  line  for 
about  one  hundred  feet,  fell,  by  numerous  small  cascades,  to 
the  rocky  bank  of  the  river. 

In  its  career  through  this  vast  and  singular  defile,  Snake 
River  is  upward  of  three  hundred  yards  Avide,  and  as  clear  as 
spring  water.  Sometimes  it  steals  along  with  a  tranquil  and 
noiseless  course;  at  other  times,  for  miles  and  miles,  it  dashes 
on  in  a  thousand  rapids,  wild  and  beautiful  to  the  eye,  and 
hdling  the  ear  with  the  soft  tumult  of  plashing  waters. 

!Many  of  the  tributary  streams  of  Snake  River,  rival  it  in  the 
wildness  and  pictures(iueness  of  their  scenery.  That  called  the 
Bruneau  is  particiflarly  cited.  It  runs  through  a  tremendous 
chasm,  rather  than  a  valley,  extending  upward  of  a  hundred 
and  fifty  miles.  You  come  upon  it  on  a  sudden,  in  traversing 
a  level  plain.  It  seems  as  if  you  could  throw  a  stone  across 
from  cliff  to  cliff;  yet,  the  valley  is  near  two  thousand  feet 
deep;  so  that  the  river  looks  like  an  inconsiderable  stream. 


182         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

Basaltic  rocks  rise  perpendicularly,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to 
get  from  the  fjlain  to  the  water,  or  from  the  river  margin  to 
the  plain.  The  current  is  bright  and  limpid.  Hot  springs  are 
found  on  the  borders  of  this  river.  One  bursts  out  of  the  cliffs 
forty  feet  above  the  river  in  a  stream  sufficient  to  turn  a  mill, 
and  sends  up  a  cloud  of  vapor. 

We  find  a  characteristic  picture  of  this  volcanic  region  of 
mountains  and  streams,  furnished  by  the  journal  of  Mr. 
Wyetn,  which  lies  before  us;  who  ascended  a  peak  in  the 
neighborhood  we  are  describing.  From  this  sununit,  the  coun- 
try, he  says,  appears  an  indescribable  chaos;  the  tops  of  the 
hills  exliibit  the  same  strata  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach ;  and 
appear  to  have  once  formed  the  level  of  the  country ;  and  the 
valleys  to  be  formed  by  the  sinking  of  the  earth,  rather  than 
the  rising  of  the  hills.  Through  the  deep  cracks  and  chasms 
thus  formed,  the  rivers  and  brooks  make  their  way,  which 
renders  it  difficult  to  follow  them.  All  these  basaltic  channels 
are  called  cut  rocks  by  the  trappers.  Many  of  the  mountain 
streams  disappear  in  the  plains;  either  absorbed  by  their 
thirsty  soil,  and  by  the  porous  siu-face  of  the  lava,  or  swallowed 
up  in  gulfs  and  chasms. 

On  the  12th  of  January  (1834),  Captain  Bonneville  reached 
Powder  River ;  much  the  largest  stream  that  he  had  seen  since 
leaving  the  Portneuf.  He  struck  it  about  three  miles  above 
its  entrance  into  Snake  River.  Here  he  found  himself  above 
the  lower  narrows  and  defiles  of  the  latter  riv^er,  and  in  an 
open  and  level  country.  The  natives  now  made  their  appear- 
ance in  considerable  numbers,  and  evinced  the  most  insatiable 
curiosity  respecting  the  white  men ;  sitting  in  groups  for  hours 
together,  exposed  to  the  bleakest  winds,  merely  for  the  pleas- 
ure of  gazing  upon  the  strangers,  and  watching  every  move- 
ment. These  are  of  that  branch  of  the  great  Snake  tribe 
called  Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggei's,  from  their  subsisting,  in  a 
great  measure,  on  the  roots  of  the  earth ;  thoiigh  they  hkcAvise 
take  fish  in  great  quantities,  and  hunt,  in  a  small  way.  They 
are,  in  general,  very  poor ;  destitute  of  most  of  the  comforts  of 
life,  and  extremely  indolent;  but  a  mild,  inoffensive  race. 
Tliey  differ,  in  many  respects,  from  the  otTier  branch  of  the 
Snake  tribe,  the  Shoshonies;  who  possess  horses,  are  more 
roving  and  adventurous,  and  hunt  the  buffalo. 

On  the  follo^\'ing  day,  as  Captain  Bonneville  approached  the 
mouth  of  Powder  River,  he  discovered  at  least  a  hundred  fami- 
lies of  these  Diggers,  as  they  are  familiarly  called,  assembled 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         183 

in  one  place.  Tlie  women  and  children  kept  at  a  distance, 
perched  among  the  rocks  and  cliffs ;  their  eager  curiosity  being 
somewhat  dashed  with  fear.  From  their  elevated  posts,  they 
scrutinized  the  strangers  with  the  most  intense  earnestness; 
regarding  them  with  almost  as  much  awe  as  if  they  had  been 
beings  of  a  supernatural  order. 

Tlie  men,  however,  were  by  no  means  so  shy  and  reserved ; 
but  importuned  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  exces- 
sively by  their  curiosity.  Nothing  escaped  their  notice;  and 
any  thing  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  underwent  the  most 
minute  examination.  To  get  rid  of  such  inquisitive  neighbors, 
the  travellci's  kept  on  for  a  considerable  distance,  before  they 
encamped  tor  the  night. 

The  country,  hereabout,  was  generally  level  and  sandy ;  pro- 
ducing very  little  grass,  but  a  considerable  quantity  of  sage  or 
wormwood.  The  plains  were  diversified  by  isolated  hills,  all 
cut  off  as  it  were,  about  the  same  height,  so  as  to  have  tabular 
summits.  In  tliis  they  resembled  the  isolated  hills  of  the  great 
prairies,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  especially  those  found 
on  the  plains  of  the  Arkansas. 

The  high  precipices  wliich  had  hitherto  walled  in  the  chan- 
nel of  Snake  River  had  now  disappeared ;  and  the  banks  were 
of  the  ordinary  height.  It  should  be  observed,  that  the  great 
vaUej^s  or  plains,  through  which  the  Snake  River  wound  its 
course,  were  generally  of  great  breadth,  extending  on  each  side 
from  tliirty  to  forty  miles;  where  the  view  was  bounded  by 
unbroken  ridges  of  mountains. 

The  travellers  found  but  little  snow  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Powder  River,  though  the  weather  continued  intensely  cold. 
They  learned  a  lesson,  however,  from  their  forlorn  friends,  the 
Root  Diggers,  which  they  subsequently  found  of  great  service 
in  their  wintry  wanderings.  They  frequently  observed  them 
to  be  furnished  with  long  ropes,  twisted  from  the  bark  of  the 
woi-mwood.  This  they  used  as  a  slow  match,  carrying  it 
always  lighted.  Whenever  they  wished  to  warm  themselves, 
they  would  gather  together  a  little  dry  wormwood,  apply  the 
match,  and  in  an  instant  produce  a  cheering  blaze. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  cheerless  account  of  a  villnge  of 
these  Diggere,  which  he  saw  in  crossing  the  plain  below  Pow- 
der River.  '"They  live,"  says  he,  "without  any  fiu'ther  pro- 
tection from  the  inclemency  of  the  season,  than  a  sort  of 
breakweather,  about  three  feet  high,  composed  of  sage  (or 
wormwood),  and  erected  around  thorn  in  the  shape  of  a  half 


184         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

moon."  Whenever  he  met  with  them,  however,  they  had  al- 
ways a  large  suite  of  half -starved  dogs ;  for  these  animals,  in 
sanv-age  as  well  as  in  civilized  life,  seem  to  be  the  concomitants 
of  beggary. 

These  dogs,  it  must  be  allowed,  were  of  more  use  than  the 
be,c:garly  curs  of  cities.  The  Indian  children  used  them  in 
hunting  the  small  game  of  the  neighborhood,  such  as  rabbits 
and  prairie  dogs;  in  which  mongrel  kind  of  chase  they  ac- 
quitted themselves  with  some  credit. 

Sometimes  the  Diggers  aspire  to  a  nobler  game,  and  succeed 
in  entrapping  the  antelope,  the  fleetest  animal  of  the  prairies. 
The  process  by  which  tliis  is  effected  is  somewhat  singular. 
When  the  snow  has  disappeared,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  and 
the  ground  become  soft,  the  women  go  into  the  thickest  fields 
of  wormwood,  and  pulling  it  up  in  great  quantities,  construct 
with  it  a  hedge  about  three  feet  high,  inclosing  about  a  hundred 
acres.  A  single  opening  is  left  for  the  admission  of  the  game. 
This  done,  the  women  conceal  themselves  behind  the  worm- 
wood, and  wait  patiently  for  the  coming  of  the  antelopes: 
which  sometimes  enter  this  spacious  trap  in  considerable  num- 
bers. As  soon  as  they  are  in,  the  women  give  the  signal,  and 
the  men  hasten  to  play  their  part.  But  one  of  them  enters  the 
pen  at  a  time ;  and,  after  chasing  the  terrified  animals  round 
the  inclosure,  is  relieved  by  one  of  his  companions.  In  this 
way  the  hunters  take  their  turns,  relieving  each  other,  and 
keeping  up  a  continued  pursuit  by  relays,  without  fatigue  to 
themselves.  The  poor  antelopes,  in  the  end,  are  so  wearied 
down,  that  the  whole  party  of  men  enter  and  dispatch  them 
with  clubs ;  not  one  escaping  that  has  entered  the  inclosure. 
The  most  curious  circumstance  in  this  chase  is,  that  an  animal 
so  fleet  and  agile  as  the  antelope,  and  straining  for  its  life, 
should  range  round  and  round  tiiis  fated  inclosure,  without 
attempting  to  overleap  the  low  barrier  which  surrounds  it. 
Such,  however,  is  said  to  be  the  fact;  and  such  their  only  mode 
of  hunting  the  antelope. 

Notwithstanding  the  absence  of  all  comfort  and  convenience 
in  their  habitations,  and  the  general  squalidness  of  their  appear- 
ance, the  Shoshokoes  do  not  appear  to  be  destitute  of  ingenuity. 
They  manufacture  good  ropes,  and  even  a  tolerably  fine  thread, 
from  a  sort  of  weed  found  in  their  neighborhood ;  and  construct 
bowls  and  jugs  out  of  a  kind  of  basket-work  formed  from  small 
strips  of  wood  plaited ;  these,  by  the  aid  of  a  little  wax,  they 
render  perfectly  water  tight.    Beside  the  roots  on  which  they 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         185 

mainly  depend  for  Gultsistence,  they  collect  great  quantities  of 
seed,  of  various  kinds,  beaten  with  one  hand  out  of  the  tops  of 
the  plants  into  wooden  bowls  held  for  that  jmrpose.  The  seed 
thus  collected  is  winnowed  and  parched,  and  ground  between 
two  stones  into  a  kind  of  meal  or  Hour;  whicli,  when  mixed 
with  water,  forms  a  very  palatable  paste  or  gruel. 

Some  of  these  people,  more  provident  and  industrious  than 
the  rest,  lay  up  a  stock  of  dried  salmon,  and  other  fish,  for 
winter;  with  these,  they  were  ready  to  traffic  with  the  travel- 
lei's  for  any  objects  of  utility  in  Indian  life;  giving  a  largo 
quantity  in  exchange  for  an  awl,  a  knife,  or  a  fish-hook. 
Others  were  in  the  most  abject  state  of  want  and  starvation ; 
and  would  even  gather  up  the  fish-bones  which  the  travellers 
threw  away  after  a  repast,  warm  them  over  again  at  the  fire, 
and  pick  them  with  the  gi-eatest  a^'idity. 

The  farther  Captain  Bonneville  advanced  into  the  country 
of  these  Root  Diggers,  the  more  evidence  he  perceived  of  their 
rude  and  forlorn  condition.  "They  were  destitute,"  says  he, 
*'  of  the  necessary  covering  to  protect  them  from  the  weather; 
and  seemed  to  be  in  the  most  unsophisticated  ignorance  of  any 
other  propriety  or  advantage  in  the  use  of  clothing.  One  old 
dame  had  abt;olutelynothing  on  her  person  but  a  thread  round 
her  neck,  from  which  was  pendant  a  solitary  bead." 

What  stage  of  human  destitution,  however,  is  too  destitute 
for  vanity!  Though  theno  naked  and  forlorn-looking  beings 
had  neither  toilet  to  arrange,  nor  beauty  to  contemplate,  theh* 
greatest  passion  was  for  a  Miirror.  It  was  a  "  great  medicine,' 
in  their  eyes.  The  sight  of  one  was  suflBcient,  at  any  time,  to 
throw  them  into  a  jxaroxysm  of  eagerness  and  delight;  and 
they  were  ready  to  give  anything  they  had  for  the  smallest 
fragment  in  which  they  might  behold  their  squalid  features. 
With  this  simple  instance  of  vanity,  m  its  primitive  but  vigor- 
ous state,  we  shall  close  our  remarks  on  the  Root  Diggers. 


18G        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

TEMPERATURE  OF  THE  CLIMATE — ROOT  DIGGERS  ON"  HORSEBACK 
— AN  INDIAN  GUIDE — MOUNTAIN  PROSPECTS — THE  GRAND  ROND 
— DIFFICULTIES  ON  SNAKE  RIVER— A  SCRAMBLE  OVER  THE 
BLUE  MOUNTAINS— SUFFERINGS  FROM  HUNGER— PROSPECT  OF 
THE  IMMAHAH  VALLEY — THE  EXHAUSTED  TRAVELLER. 

The  temperature  of  the  regions  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
is  much  milder  than  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  Atlantic  side ; 
the  upper  plains,  however,  which  lie  at  a  distance  fi"om  the  sea- 
coast  are  subject  in  winter  to  considerable  vicissitude ;  being 
traversed  by  lofty  "sierras,"  crowned  with  perpetual  snow, 
which  often  produce  flaws  and  streaks  of  intense  cold.  This 
was  experienced  by  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  in 
their  progress  westward.  At  the  time  when  they  left  the 
Bannecks,  Snake  River  was  frozen  hard;  as  they  proceeded, 
the  ice  became  broken  and  floating ;  it  gradually  disappeared, 
and  the  weather  became  warm  and  pleasant,  as  they  ap- 
proached a  tributary  stream  called  the  Little  Wyer ;  and  the 
soil,  which  was  generally  of  a  watery  clay,  with  occasional  in- 
tervals of  sand,  was  soft  to  the  tread  of  the  horses.  After  a 
time,  however,  the  mountains  approached  and  flanked  the 
river,  the  snow  lay  deep  in  the  valleys,  and  the  current  was 
once  moi-e  icebound. 

Here  they  were  visited  by  a  party  of  Root  Diggers,  who 
were  apparently  rising  in  the  world,  for  they  had  "  a  horse  to 
ride  and  weapon  to  wear,"  and  were  altogether  better  clad  and 
equipped  than  any  of  the  tribe  that  Captain  Bonneville  had 
met  with.  They  were  just  from  the  plain  of  Boisee  River, 
where  they  had  left  a  number  of  their  tribe,  all  as  well  pro- 
vided as  themselves,  having  gims,  horses,  and  comfortable 
clotliing.  All  these  they  obtained  from  the  Lower  Nez  Perces, 
with  whom  they  were  in  habits  of  frequent  traffic.  They  ap- 
peared to  have  imbibed  from  that  tribe  their  non-combative 
principles,  being  mild  and  inoffensive  in  their  manners.  Like 
them,  also,  they  had  something  of  religious  feelings;  for  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  observed  that,  before  eating  thoy  washed  their 
hands  and  made  a  short  prayer;  which  he  understood  was 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         187 

their  invariable  custom.  From  these  Indians  he  obtained  a 
considerablo  siippi}'  of  fish,  and  an  excellent  and  well-condi- 
tioned horse,  to  replace  one  which  had  become  too  weak  for 
the  journey. 

The  travellers  now  moved  forward  with  renovated  spirits ; 
the  snow,  it  is  true,  lay  deeper  and  deeper  as  they  advanced, 
but  they  trudged  on  merrily,  considering  themselves  avcII 
provided  for  the  journey,  which  could  not  be  of  much  longer 
duration. 

They  had  intended  to  proceed  up  the  banks  of  Gun  Creek,  a 
stream  which  flows  into  Snake  River  from  the  west ;  but  w-ere 
assured  by  the  natives  that  the  route  in  that  dii'ection  was 
impracticable.  The  latter  advised  them  to  keep  along  Snake 
River,  where  they  would  not  be  impeded  by  the  snow.  Tak- 
ing one  of  the  Diggers  for  a  guide  they  set  off  along  the  river, 
and  to  their  joy  soon  found  the  country  free  from  snow,  as 
had  been  pretlicted,  so  that  their  horses  once  more  had  the 
benefit  of  tolerable  pasturage.  Their  Digger  proved  an  excel- 
lent guide,  trudging  cheerily  in  the  advance.  He  made  an 
unsuccessful  shot  or  two  at  a  deer  and  a  beaver ;  but  at  night 
found  a  rabbit  liole,  whence  he  extracted  the  occupant,  upon 
which,  with  the  addition  of  a  fish  given  by  the  travellers,  he 
made  a  hearty  supper,  and  retired  to  rest,  filled  with  good 
cheer  and  good  humor. 

The  next  day  the  travellers  came  to  where  the  hills  closed 
upon  the  river,  leaving  here  and  there  intci'vals  of  undulating 
meadow  land.  The  river  w^as  sheeted  with  ice,  broken  into 
hills  at  long  intervals.  The  Digger  kept  on  ahead  of  the  party, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  river  in  pursuit  of  game,  until, 
unluckily,  encountering  a  brother  Digger,  he  stole  off  with 
him,  without  the  ceremony  of  leave-taking. 

Being  now  left  to  themselves,  they  proceeded  untQ  they 
came  to  some  Indian  huts,  the  inhabitants  of  which  spoke 
a  language  totally  different  from  any  they  had  yet  heard. 
One,  however,  understood  the  Nez  Perce  language,  and 
through  him  they  made  inqm"ries  as  to  their  route.  These 
Indians  were  extremely  kind  and  honest,  and  furnished  them 
with  a  small  quantity  of  meat ;  but  none  of  them  coidd  be  m- 
duced  to  act  as  guides. 

Immediately  in  the  route  of  the  travellers  lay  a  high  momi- 
tain,  which  they  ascended  with  some  difficulty.  The  prospect 
from  the  summit  was  grand  but  disheartening.  Directly  be- 
fore them  towered  the  loftiest  peaks  of  Immahah  rising  far 


188        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

higher  than  the  elevated  ground  on  which  they  stood ;  on  the 
other  hand,  they  were  enabled  to  scan  the  course  of  the  river, 
dashing  along  through  deep  chasms,  between  rocks  and  preci- 
pices, until  lost  in  a  distant  wilderness  of  mountains,  which 
closed  the  savage  landscape. 

They  remained  for  a  long  time  contemplating,  with  per- 
plexed and  anxious  eye,  this  wild  congregation  of  mountain 
barriers,  and  seeking  to  discover  some  pi'acticable  passage. 
The  appi-oach  of  evening  obliged  them  to  give  up  the  task,  and 
to  seek  some  camping  ground  for  the  night.  Moving  briskly 
forward,  and  plunging  and  tossing  through  a  succession  of 
deep  snow-drifts,  they  at  length  reached  a  valley  known 
among  trappers  as  the  "Grand  Eond,"  which  they  found 
entirely  free  from  snow. 

This  is  a  beautiful  and  very  fertile  valley,  about  twenty 
miles  long  and  five  or  six  broad ;  a  bright  cold  stream  called 
the  Fourche  de  Glace,  or  Ice  River,  runs  through  it.  Its 
sheltered  situation,  embosomed  in  mountains,  renders  it  good 
pasturing  ground  in  the  winter  time ;  when  the  elk  come  down 
to  it  in  great  nujnbers,  driven  out  of  the  mountains  by  the 
snow.  The  Indians  then  resort  to  it  to  hunt.  They  likewise 
come  to  it  in  the  summer  to  dig  the  camash  root,  of  which  it 
produces  immense  quantities.  When  this  plant  is  in  blossom, 
the  whole  valley  is  tinted  by  its  blue  flowers,  and  looks  like 
the  ocean  when  overcast  by  a  cloud. 

After  passing  a  night  in  this  valley,  the  travellers  in  the 
morning  scaled  the  neighboring  hills,  to  look  out  for  a  more 
eligible  route  than  that  upon  which  they  had  unluckily  fallen; 
and,  after  much  reconnoitring  determined  to  make  their  way 
once  more  to  the  river,  and  to  travel  upon  the  ice  when  the 
banks  should  prove  impassable. 

On  the  second  day  after  this  determination,  they  were  again 
upon  Snake  River,  but,  contrary  to  their  expectations,  it  was 
nearly  free  from  ice.  A  narrov/  ribbon  ran  along  the  shore, 
and  sometimes  there  was  a  kind  of  bridge  across  the  stream, 
formed  of  old  ice  and  snow.  For  a  short  time,  they  jogged 
along  the  bank,  with  tolerable  facility,  but  at  length  came  to 
where  the  river  forced  its  way  into  the  heart  of  the  mountains, 
winding  between  tremendous  walls  of  basaltic  rock,  that  rose 
perpendicularly  from  the  water's  edge,  fro"vvning  in  bleak  and 
gloomy  grandeur.  Here  difficulties  of  all  kinds  beset  their 
path.  The  snow  was  from  two  to  three  feet  deep,  but  soft  and 
yieldmg,  so  that  the  horses  had  no  foothold,  but  kept  plunging 


ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.  189 

forward,  straininp:  tlicmsclvcs  by  perpotunl  eflForts.  Some- 
times the  cra.c,^  and  promontories  iorced  them  upon  the 
narrow  ribbon  of  ice  that  bordered  the  shore;  sometimes  they 
had  to  scramble  over  vast  masses  of  rock  which  had  tumbled 
from  the  impending  precipices;  sometimes  they  had  to  cross 
the  strctuii  upon  the  hazardous  bridges  of  ice  and  snow,  sink- 
ing to  the  knee  at  every  step ;  sometimes  they  had  to  scale 
slippery  acclivities,  and  to  pass  along  narrow  cornices,  glazed 
with  ice  and  sleet,  a  shouldering  wail  of  rock  on  one  side,  a 
yawning  precipice  on  the  other,  whore  a  single  false  step  would 
have  been  fatal.  In  a  lower  and  less  dangerous  pass,  two  of 
their  horses  actually  fell  into  the  river;  one  was  saved  with 
much  difficulty,  but  the  boldness  of  the  shore  prevented  their 
rescuing  the  other,  and  he  was  swept  away  by  the  rapid 
current. 

In  this  way  they  struggled  forward,  manfully  braving  diffi- 
culties and  dangers,  until  they  came  to  where  the  bed  of  the 
river  was  narrowed  to  a  mere  chasm,  with  perpendicidar 
walls  of  rock  that  defied  all  further  progress.  Turning  their 
faces  noAv  to  the  mountain,  they  endeavored  to  cross  dii-ectly 
over  it;  but,  after  clambering  nearly  to  the  smnmit,  found 
their  path  closed  by  insunnoim table  barriers. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  retrace  their  steps.  To 
descend  a  cragged  mountain,  however,  was  more  difficult  and 
dangerous  than  to  ascend  it.  Tliey  had  to  lower  themselves, 
cautiously  and  slowly,  from  steep  to  steep;  and.  wliile  they 
managed  with  difficulty  to  maintain  their  own  footing,  to  aid 
their  horses  by  holding  on  firmly  to  the  rope  halters,  as  the 
poor  animals  stumbled  among  slippery  rocks,  or  slid  down  icy 
declivities.  Thus,  after  a  day  of  intense  cold,  and  severe  and 
incessant  toil,  amid  the  wildest  of  scenery,  they  managed, 
about  ni^ihtfall,  to  reach  the  camping  groimd  from  which  they 
had  started  in  the  morning,  and  for  the  first  time  in  the  course 
of  their  rugged  and  perilous  expedition,  felt  their  hearts  quail- 
ing under  their  multi]ilied  hardsliips. 

A  hearty  supper,  a  tranquillizing  pipe,  and  a  sound  night's 
sleep,  put  them  all  in  better  mood,  and  in  the  morning  they 
held  a  consultation  as  to  their  future  movements.  About  four 
miles  behind,  they  had  remarked  a  small  ridge  of  mountains 
approaching  closely  to  the  river.  It  was  determined  to  scale 
this  ridge,  and  seek  a  passage  into  the  valley  wliieh  must  lie 
beyond.  Sh  mid  tliey  fail  in  this,  but  one  alternative  re- 
mained.   To  kill  their  horses,  dry  the  flesh  for  provisions. 


190         ADVKyTUHl-JS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLli:. 

make  boats  of  the  hides,  and,  in  these,  commit  themselves  to 
the  stream,  a  measure  hazardous  in  the  extreme. 

A  short  march  brought  them  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
but  its  steep  and  cragged  sides  ahiiost  discouraged  hope.  The 
only  chance  of  scahng  it  was  by  broken  masses  of  rock,  piled 
one  upon  another,  which  formed  a  succession  of  crags,  reach- 
ing nearly  to  the  summit.  Up  these  they  wrought  their  way 
with  indescribable  difficulty  and  peril,  in  a  zigzag  course, 
climbing  from  rock  to  rock,  and  helping  their  horses  up  after 
them ;  which  scrambled  among  the  crags  like  mountain  goats ; 
now  and  then  dislodging  some  huge  stone,  which,  the  moment 
they  had  left  it,  would  roll  down  the  mountain,  crashing  and 
rebounding  with  terrific  din.  It  was  some  time  after  dai'k 
before  they  reached  a  Idnd  of  platform  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  where  they  could  venture  to  encamp.  The  winds, 
which  swept  this  naked  height,  had  whirled  all  the  snow  into 
the  valley  beneath,  so  that  the  horses  found  tolerable  winter 
pasturage  on  the  dry  grass  which  remained  exposed.  The 
travellers,  though  hungry  in  the  extreme,  were  lain  to  make  a 
very  frugal  supper;  for  they  saw  their  journey  was  likely  to 
be  prolonged  much  beyond  the  anticipated  term. 

In.  fact,  on  the  following  day  they  discerned  that,  although 
already  at  a  great  elevation,  they  were  only  as  yet  upon  the 
shoulder  of  the  mountain.  It  proved  to  be  a  great  sierra,  or 
ridge,  of  immense  height,  running  parallel  to  the  course  of 
the  river,  swelling  by  degrees  to  lofty  peaks,  but  the  outline 
gashed  by  deep  and  precipitous  ravines.  This,  in  fact,  was  a 
part  of  the  chain  of  Blue  Mountains,  in  which  the  first  adven- 
turers to  Astoria  experienced  such  hardships. 

We  will  not  pretend  to  accompany  the  travellers  step  by 
step  in  this  tremendous  mountain  scramble,  into  which  they 
had  unconsciously  betrayed  themselves.  Day  after  day  did 
their  toil  continue;  peak  after  peak  hod  they  to  traverse, 
struggling  with  difficulties  and  hardships  known  cnly  to  the 
mountain  trapper.  As  their  course  lay  north,  they  had  to 
ascend  the  southern  faces  of  the  heights,  where  the  sun  had 
melted  the  snow,  so  as  to  render  the  ascent  wet  and  slippery, 
and  to  keep  both  men  and  horses  continually  on  the  strain; 
while  on  the  northern  sides,  the  snow  lay  in  such  heavy  masses 
that  it  was  necessary  to  beat  a  track  down  which  the  horses 
might  be  led.  Evciy  now  and  then,  also,  their  way  was  im- 
peded by  tall  and  numerous  pines,  some  of  which  had  fallen, 
and  lay  in  every  direction. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         VM 

In' the  midst  of  those  toils  and  hardshijjs,  tiieir  provisions 
gave  out.  For  three  days  they  were  without  food,  and  so  re- 
duced that  they  could  scarcely  drag  themselves  along.  At 
length,  one  of  the  mules  being  about  to  give  out  from  fatigue 
and  famine,  they  hastened  to  dispatch  him.  Husbanding  this 
miserable  supply,  they  dried  the  llesh,  and  for  three  days  sub- 
sisted upon  the  nutriment  extracted  from  the  bones.  As  to 
the  meat,  it  was  packed  and  preserved  as  long  as  they  could 
do  without  it,  not  knowing  how  long  they  might  remain  be- 
wildered in  these  desolate  I'egions. 

One  of  the  men  was  now  dispatched  ahead,  to  reconnoitre 
the  country,  and  to  discover,  if  possible,  some  more  pi-acti- 
cable  route.  In  the  meantime,  the  rest  of  the  party  moved 
on  slowly.  After  a  lapse  of  three  days,  the  scout  rejoined 
them.  He  informed  them  that  Snake  River  ran  immediately 
below  the  sierra  or  mountainous  ridge  upon  which  they  were 
travelling;  that  it  was  free  from  precipices,  and  was  at  no 
great  distance  from  them  in  a  direct  line;  but  that  it  would  be 
impossible  for  them  to  reach  it  without  making  a  weary  cir- 
cuit. Their  only  course  would  be  to  cross  the  moimtain  ridge 
to  the  left. 

Up  this  mountoin,  therefore,  the  weary  travellers  directed 
their  steps;  and  the  ascent,  in  their  present  weak  and  ex- 
hausted state,  was  one  of  the  severest  parts  of  this  most  pain- 
ful journey.  For  two  days  were  they  toiling  slowly  from  cliff 
to  cliff,  beating  at  every  step  a  path  through  the  snow  for  their 
faltering  horses.  At  length  they  reached  the  summit,  where 
the  snow  was  blown  off;  but  in  descending  on  the  opposite 
side  they  were  often  plunging  through  deep  drifts  piled  in  the 
hollows  and  ravines. 

Their  provisions  were  now  exhaiif-ted,  and  they  and  their 
horses  almost  ready  to  give  out  with  fatigue  and  hunger;  wlion 
one  afternoon,  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  a  blue  hue 
of  distant  mountain,  they  came  to  the  brow  of  a  height  from 
which  they  beheld  the  smooth  valley  of  the  Immahah  stretched 
out  in  smihng  verdure  below  them. 

The  sight  inspired  almost  a  frenzy  of  delight.  Roused  to 
new  ardor,  they  forgot  for  a  time  their  fatigues,  and  hurried 
down  the  mountain,  dragging  their  jaded  horses  after  them, 
and  sometimes  compelling  thi'm  to  slide  a  distance  of  thirty  or 
forty  feet  at  a  time.  At  length  they  7'eached  the  banks  of  the 
Inmiahah.  The  young  grass  was  just  beginnuig  to  sprout,  and 
the  whole  valley  wore  an  aspect  of  softness,  verdure,  and  re- 


192         ADVBNTUJiES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

pose,  heightened  by  the  contrast  of  the  frightful  region  from 
which  they  had  just  descended.  To  add  to  their  joy.  they  ob- 
served Indian  trails  along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  and  other 
signs,  wliich  gave  them  reason  to  believe  that  there  was  an  en- 
campmcni  of  the  Lower  Nez  Perces  in  the  neighborhood,  as  it 
was  within  the  accustomed  range  of  that  pacitic  and  hospitable 
tribe. 

The  prospect  of  a  supply  of  food  stimulated  them  to  ncAV 
exertion,  and  they  continued  on  as  fast  as  the  enfeebled  state 
of  themselves  and  their  steeds  would  permit.  At  length,  one 
of  the  men,  more  exhausted  than  the  rest,  threw  himself  upon 
the  grass,  and  declai-ed  he  could  go  iio  further.  It  was  in  vain 
to  attempt  to  arouse  him ;  his  spirit  had  given  out,  and  his  re- 
pUes  only  showed  the  dogged  apathy  of  despair.  His  com- 
panions, therefore,  encamped  on  the  spot,  kindled  a  blazing 
fire,  and  searched  about  for  roots  with  which  to  strengthen 
and  revive  him.  They  all  then  made  a  starveling  repast  ; 
but  gathering  roimd  the  fire,  talked  over  past  dangers  and 
troubles,  soothed  themselves  with  the  persuasion  that  all  were 
now  at  an  end,  and  went  to  sleep  with  the  comforting  hope 
that  the  morrow  would  bring  them  into  plentiful  quarters. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

PROGRESS  IN  THE  VALLEY— AN  INDIAN  CAVALIER— THE  CAPTAIN 
FALLS  INTO  A  LETHARGY — A  NEZ  PERCE  PATRIARCH— HOSPITA- 
BLE TREATMENT — THE  BALD  HEAD — BARGAINING  -VALUE  OF  AN 
OLD  PLAID  CLOAK--  THE  FAMILY  HORSE — THE  COST  OF  AN  IN- 
DIAN PRESENT. 

A  TRANQUIL  night's  rest  had  suffioiently  restored  the  broken 
down  traveller  to  enable  him  to  resume  his  wayfaring,  and  all 
hands  set  forward  on  the  Indian  trail.  With  all  their  eager- 
ness to  arrive  within  reach  of  succor,  such  was  their  feeble  and 
emaciated  condition  that  they  advanced  but  slowly.  Nor  is  it 
a  matter  of  surprise  that  they  should  almost  have  lost  heart,  as 
well  as  strength.  It  was  now  (the  16th  of  February)  fifty-three 
days  that  they  had  been  travelling  in  the  midst  of  winter,  ex- 
posed to  all  kinds  of  privations  and  hardships ;  and  for  the  last 
twenty  days  they  had  been  entangled  in  the  wild  and  desolate 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         ]0:3 

labyrintliK  of  the  snowy  mountains ;  climlnnp:  and  descending 
icy  precipices,  and  nearly  starved  with  cold  and  hunger. 

All  the  morning  they  continued  following  the  Indian  trail, 
without  seeing  a  hiunan  being,  and  were  beginning  to  be  dis- 
couraged when,  about  nof)n,  they  discovered  a  horsemen  at  a 
distance.  He  Avas  coming  directly  toward  them;  but  on  dis- 
covering them,  suddenly  reined  up  his  steed,  came  to  a  halt, 
and,  after  reconnoitring  tliem  for  a  time  with  great  earnest- 
ness, seemed  about  to  make  a  cautious  Betrcat.  They  eageily 
made  signs  of  peace,  and  endeavored,  with  the  utmost  anxiety, 
to  induce  him  to  approach.  He  remained  for  some  time  in 
doubt;  but  at  length,  having  satisfied  himself  that  they  were 
not  enemies,  came  galloping  up  to  them.  Ho  was  a  fine, 
haughty-looking  savage,  fancifully  decorated,  and  moimted  on 
a  high-mettled  steed,  with  gaudy  trappings  and  equij)ments. 
It  was  evident  that  he  was  a  warrior  of  some  conseciuence 
among  his  tribe.  His  whole  deportment  had  something  in  it 
of  barbaric  dignity;  he  felt  perhaps  his  temporary  superioi-ity 
in  personal  array,  and  in  the  spirit  of  his  steed,  to  the  poor, 
ragged,  travel-worn  trappers  and  their  half-starved  horses. 
Approaching  them  with  an  air  of  protection,  he  gave  them  his 
hand,  and,  in  the  Nez  Perce  language  invited  them  to  his 
camp,  which  was  only  a  few  miles  distant;  where  ho  had  plenty 
to  eat,  and  plenty  o1'  horses,  and  would  cheerfully  share  his 
good  things  with  them. 

His  hospitable  invitation  was  joyfully  accepted ;  he  lingered 
but  a  moment,  to  give  directions  by  which  they  might  find  his 
camp,  and  then,  wheeling  round,  and  giving  the  reins  to  his 
mettlesome  steed,  Avas  soon  out  of  sight.  The  travellei-s  fol- 
lowed, with  gladdened  hearts,  but  at  a  snail's  pace;  for  their 
poor  horses  could  scarcely  drag  one  leg  after  the  other.  Caji- 
tain  Bonneville,  however,  experienced  a  sudden  and  sintrilar 
change  of  feeling.  Hitherto,  the  necessity  of  conducting  his 
party,  and  of  providing  against  every  emergency,  had  ke])t  his 
mind  upon  the  stretch,  and  his  whole  system  braced  and  ex- 
cited. In  no  one  instance  had  he  flagged  in  spirit  or  felt  dis- 
posed to  succmnb.  Now,  however,  that  all  danger  was  over, 
and  the  march  of  a  few  miles  would  bring  them  to  repose  and 
abundance,  his  energies  suddenly  d(>s(M'ted  him;  and  every 
faculty,  mental  and  physical,  was  totally  relaxed.  He  had  not 
proceeded  two  miles  from  the  point  where  he  had  had  the  in- 
terview with  the  Nez  Perce  chief,  when  he  threw  himself  upon 
the  earth,  without  the  power  or  will  to  move  a  muscle,  or  exert 


194        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

a  thought,  and  sank  almost  instantly  into  a  prcfound  and 
dreamless  sleep.  His  companions  again  came  to  a  halt,  and 
encamped  beside  him,  and  tliere  they  passed  the  night. 

The  next  morning  Captain  Bonneville  awakened  i'rom  his 
long  and  heavy  sleep,  much  refreshed ;  and  they  all  resumed 
their  creeping  progress.  They  had  not  long  been  on  the  march 
when  eight  or  ten  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe  came  galloping  to 
meet  them,  leading  fresh  horses  to  bear  them  to  their  camp. 
Thus  gallantly  mounted,  they  felt  now  life  infused  into  their 
languid  frames,  and  dashing  forward,  were  soon  at  the  lodges 
of  tlie  Nez  Pei'ces.  Here  they  found  about  twelve  families  hv- 
ing  together,  under  the  patriarchal  sway  of  an  ancient  and 
venerable  chief.  He  received  them  with  the  hospitality  of  the 
golden  age,  and  with  something  of  the  same  kind  of  fare ;  for, 
while  he  opened  his  arms  to  make  them  welcoi.ie,  the  only  re- 
past he  set  before  them  consisted  of  roots.  They  could  have 
wished  for  something  more  hearty  and  substantial;  but,  for 
want  of  better,  made  a  voracious  meal  on  these  humble  viands. 
The  repast  being  over,  the  best  pipe  was  lighted  and  sent 
round ;  and  this  was  a  most  welcome  luxury,  having  lost  their 
smoking  apparatus  twelve  days  before,  among  the  moiuitains. 

While  they  were  thus  enjoying  themselves,  their  poor  horses 
were  led  to  the  best  pastures  in  the  neighborhood,  where  they 
were  turned  loose  to  revel  on  the  fresh  sprouting  grass;  so  that 
they  had  better  fare  than  their  masters. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  felt  himself  quite  at  home  among 
th'"'^^e  quiet,  inoffensive  people.  His  long  residence  among  their 
cousins,  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  had  made  him  conversant  with 
their  language,  modes  of  expression,  and  all  their  habitudes. 
He  soon  found,  too,  that  he  was  well  knoAvn  among  them,  by 
report,  at  least,  from  the  constant  interchange  of  visits  and 
messages  between  the  two  branches  of  the  tribe.  They  at  first 
addressed  him  by  his  name ;  giving  him  his  title  of  captain, 
with  a  French  accent ;  but  they  soon  gave  him  a  title  of  their 
own  vv'hii  h,  as  usual  with  Indian  titles,  had  a  peculiar  signifi- 
cation. In  the  case  of  the  captain,  it  had  somewhat  of  a  whim- 
sical origin. 

As  he  sat  chatting  and  sraoldng  in  the  midst  of  them,  he 
would  occasionally  take  off  his  cap.  "Whenever  he  did  so, 
there  was  a  sensation  in  the  surrounding  circle.  The  Indians 
would  half  rise  from  their  recumbent  posture,  and  gaze  upon 
his  imcovered  head  with  their  usual  exclamation  of  astonish- 
ment.   The  worthy  captain  was  completely  bald;  a  phenom- 


ADVENTURES  OF  C APT  A  IN  BONNEVILLE.         195 

enon  very  surprising  in  their  eyes.  They  were  at  a  loss  to 
know  whether  he  had  been  scalped  in  battle,  or  enjoyed  a  nat- 
ural immunity  from  that  belligerent  iniliction.  In  a  littlo 
wliilo  he  became  known  among  them  by  an  Indian  name,  sig- 
nifying ' '  the  bald  chief. "  "A  sobriquet, "  observes  the  captain, 
"for  which  I  can  find  no  parallel  in  history  since  the  days  of 
Charles  the  Bald." 

Although  the  travellers  had  banqueted  on  roots,  and  been  re- 
galed with  tobacco  smoke,  yet  their  stomachs  craved  moro 
generous  fare.  In  approaching  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces 
they  had  indulged  in  fond  anticipations  of  venison  and  dried 
salmon;  and  dreams  of  the  kind  still  haunted  their  imagina- 
tions, and  could  not  be  conjui'ed  down.  The  keen  appetites 
of  mountain  trappers,  quickened  by  a  fortnight's  fasting,  at 
lengtli  got  the  better  of  all  scruples  of  pride,  and  they  fairly 
begged  some  fish  or  flesh  from  the  hospitable  savages.  The 
latter,  however,  were  slow  to  break  in  upon  their  winter  store, 
which  Avas  very  limited ;  but  were  ready  to  furnish  roots  in 
abundance,  which  they  pronounced  excellent  food.  At  length, 
Captain  Bonneville  thought  of  a  means  of  attaining  the  much- 
coveted  gi-atification. 

He  had  about  him,  he  says,  a  trusty  plaid ;  an  old  and  valued 
travelling  companion  and  comforter;  upon  which  the  rains  had 
descended,  and  the  snows  and  winds  beaten,  without  further 
elTect  than  somewhat  to  tarnish  its  primitive  lustre.  This  oat 
of  many  colors  had  excited  the  admiration,  and  inflamed  the 
covetousncss  of  both  warriors  and  squaws  to  an  extravagant 
degree.  An  idea  now  occiu-red  to  Captain  Bonneville,  to  con- 
vert this  rainbow  garment  into  the  savory  viands  so  much  de- 
sired. There  was  a  momentary  struggle  in  his  mind  between 
old  associations  and  projected  indulgence ;  and  his  decision  in 
favor  Of  the  latter  was  made,  he  s^iys,  with  a  greater  prompt- 
ness perhaps,  than  true  taste  and  sentiment  nupht  have  re- 
quired. In  a  few  moments  his  plaid  cloak  Avas  cut  into 
numerous  strips.  '  Of  these,"  continues  he,  "  Avith  the  newly 
developed  talent  of  a  man-milliner,  I  speedily  constructed 
turbans  d  la  Turqiie,  and  fanciful  head-gears  of  divers  confor- 
mations. These,  judiciously  distributed  among  sucli  of  tho 
womenkind  as  seemed  of  most  conse{|uence  and  interest  in 
the  eyes  of  the7)oYre.s'  con.scn'pfi,  brought  us.  in  a  little  while, 
abundance  of  dried  salmon  and  deei's'  hearts,  on  Avliidi  avo 
made  a  sumptuous  supper.  Another,  and  a  more  satisfactory 
smoke,  succeeded  this  repast,  and  SAveet  slmnbers  answering 


196         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVTLLE. 

the  peaceful  invocation  of  our  pipes,  wrapped  us  in  that  deli 
cious  rest  which  is  only  won  hy  toil  and  travail.'" 

As  to  Captain  Bonne villo,  he  slept  in  the  lodge  of  the  vener 
ahle  patriarch,  who  had  evidently  conceived  a  most  disin- 
terested affection  for  him;  as  was  shown  on  the  following 
morning.  The  travellers,  invigorated  by  a  good  supper,  and 
"fresh  from  the  bath  of  repose,"  wore  about  to  resume  their 
journey,  when  this  affectionate  old  chief  took  the  captain 
aside,  to  let  him  know  how  much  he  loved  him.  A.s  a  proof  of 
his  regard,  he  had  determined  to  give  Inm  a  fine  horse,  which 
would  go  farther  than  words,  and  put  his  good-will  beyond  all 
question.  So  saying,  he  made  a  signal,  and  forthwith  a  beau- 
tiful young  hort-e,  oi  a  brown  color,  was  led,  prancing  and 
snorting,  to  the  place.  Captain  Bonneville  was  suitably  affected 
by  this  mark  of  friendship ;  but  his  experience  m  what  is  pro- 
vcrbiaDy  called  "  Indian  giving,''  made  him  aware  that  a  part- 
ing pledge  was  necessary  on  liis  own  part,  to  prove  that  Ins 
friendship  was  reciprocated.  He  accordingly  placed  a  hand- 
some rifle  in  the  hands  of  the  venerable  chief,  whose  benevo- 
lent heart  was  evidently  touched  and  gratified  by  this  outward 
and  visible  sign  of  amity. 

Having  now,  as  he  thought,  balanced  this  little  account  of 
friendship,  the  captain  was  about  to  shift  his  saddle  to  this 
noble  gift-horse,  when  the  affectionate  patriarch  plucked  him 
by  the  sleeve,  and  introduced  to  him  a  whimpering,  whming, 
leathern- skinned  old  squaw,  that  might  have  passed  for  an 
Egyptian  mummy  without  drying.  '"This,"  said  ho,  "is  my 
wife;  she  is  a  good  wife— I  love  her  very  much. — She  loves  the 
horse— she  loves  him  a  great  deal — she  will  cry  very  much  at 
losing  him. — I  do  not  know  how  I  shall  comfort  her— and  that 
makes  my  heart  very  sore." 

What  could  the  worthy  captain  do  to  console  the  tender- 
hearted old  squaw  and,  peradventure,  to  save  the  venerable 
patriarch  from  a  curtain  lecture  ?  He  bethought  himself  of  a 
pair  of  ear-bobs ;  it  was  true,  the  patriarch's  better  half  was  of 
an  age  and  appearance  that  seemed  to  put  personal  vanity  out 
of  the  question,  but  when  is  personal  vanity  extincfc  ?  The  mo- 
ment he  produced  the  glittering  ear-bobs,  the  whimpering  and 
whining  of  the  sempiternal  beldame  was  at  an  end.  She 
eagerly  placed  the  precious  baubles  in  her  ears,  and,  though  as 
ugly  as  the  Witch  of  Endor,  went  off  with  a.  sideling  gait,  and 
coquettish  air,  as  though  she  had  been  a  perfect  Scmiramis. 

The  captain  had  now  saddled  his  newly  acquired  steed,  and 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         ]07 

his  foot  was  in  the  stirnip,  when  the  affectionate  patriarch 
again  stepped  forward,  and  presented  to  hini  a  young  Pierced- 
nose,  who  had  a  pecuharly  sulky  look.  "This,"  said  the  ven- 
erable chief,  "is  my  son;  he  is  very  good,  a  great  horseman — 
he  always  took  care  o'i  this  very  fine  horse— he  brought  him  up 
from  a  colt,  and  made  him  what  he  is.  He  is  very  fond  of  this 
fine  horse — he  loves  him  like  a  brother — his  heart  will  be  very 
heavy  when  this  fine  horse  leaves  the  camp." 

What  coidd  the  captain  do,  to  reward  the  youthful  hope  of 
tliis  venerable  pair,  and  comfort  him  for  the  loss  oi  his  foster- 
brother,  the  horse?  He  bethought  him  of  a  hatchet,  which 
might  be  spared  from  his  slender  stores.  No  sooner  did  he 
place  the  mstrument  into  the  hands  of  the  young  hopeful,  than 
his  countenance  brightened  up,  and  he  went  off  rejoicing  in  his 
hatchet  to  the  full  as  much  as  did  his  respectable  mother  in 
her  ear-bobs. 

The  captain  was  now  in  the  saddle,  and  about  to  start,  when 
the  affectionate  old  patriarch  stei>ped  forward  for  the  third 
time,  and,  while  he  laid  one  hand  gently  on  the  mane  of  the 
horse,  held  up  the  rifle  in  the  other.  "This  rifle,"  said  he. 
"shall  be  my  gi-eat  medicine.  I  will  hug  it  to  my  heart— I 
will  always  love  it,  for  the  sake  ot  my  good  friend,  the  bald- 
headed  chief.  But  a  rifle,  by  itself,  is  dumb— I  cannot  make  it 
speak.  If  I  had  a  little  powder  and  ball,  I  would  take  it  out 
with  me,  and  Avould  now  and  then  shoot  a  deer;  and  when  I 
brought  the  meat  home  to  my  hungry  family,  I  would  say — 
This  was  killed  by  the  rifle  of  my  friend,  the  bald-headed  cliief, 
to  whom  I  gave  that  very  fine  hor.se." 

There  was  no  resisting  this  appeal;  the  captain  forthwith 
furnished  the  coveted  supj)ly  of  powder  and  ball;  but  at  the 
t^AWv  time  put  .-purs  to  his  very  fine  gift-horse,  and  the  fb'st 
trial  of  his  speed  was  to  get  out  ol  all  finther  manifestation  of 
friendship  on  the  part  of  the  affectionate  old  patriarch  and  his 
iii;inuatiug  family. 


198         ADVENTURES  OF  UArTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

NEZ  PERCK  CAMP— A  CHIEF  WITH  A  HARD  NAME— THE  BIG 
HEARTS  OF  THE  EAST— HOSPITABLE  TREATMENT — THE  INDIAN 
GUIDES— MYSTERIOUS  COUNCILS— THE  LOQUACIOUS  CHIEF— IN- 
DIAN TOMB— GRAND  INDIAN  RECEPTION — AN  INDIAN  FEAST — 
TOWN-CRIERS —HONESTY  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCES— THE  CAPTAIN'S 
ATTEMPT  AT  HEALING. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Immahah,  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  three  companions  soon  reached  the  vicinity  of  Snake 
River.  Their  route  now  lay  over  a  succession  of  steep  and  iso- 
lated hills,  with  profound  valleys.  On  the  second  day  after 
taking  leave  of  the  affectionate  old  patriarch,  as  they  were 
descending  into  one  of  those  deep  and  abrupt  intervals,  they 
descried  a  smoke,  and  shortly  afterward  came  in  sight  of  a 
small  encampment  of  Nez  Perces. 

The  Indians,  when  they  ascertained  that  it  was  a  party  of 
white  men  approaching,  greeted  them  with  a  salute  of  firearms, 
and  invited  them  to  encamp.  This  band  was  likewise  under 
the  sway  of  a  venerable  chief  named  Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut ;  a 
name  which  we  shall  be  careful  not  to  inflict  oftener  than  is 
necessary  upon  the  reader.  This  ancient  and  hard-named 
chieftain  welcomed  Captain  Bonneville  to  his  camp  with  the 
same  hospitality  and  loving  kindness  that  he  had  experienced 
from  his  predecessor.  He  told  the  captain  he  had  often  heard 
of  the  Americans  and  their  generous  deeds,  and  that  his  buf- 
falo brethren  (the  Upper  Nez  Perces)  had  always  spoken  of 
them  as  the  Big-hearted  whites  of  the  East,  the  very  good 
friends  of  the  Nez  Perces. 

Captain  Bonneville  felt  somewhat  uneasy  under  the  responsi- 
bihty  of  this  magnanimous  but  costly  appellation;  and  began 
to  fear  he  might  be  involved  in  a  second  interchange  of 
pledges  of  friendship.  He  hastened,  therefore,  to  let  the  old 
chief  know  his  poverty-stricken  state,  and  how  little  there  was 
to  be  expected  from  him. 

He  informed  hiin  that  he  and  his  comrades  had  long  resided 
among  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  and  loved  them  so  much  that 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         199 

they  had  thrown  their  arms  around  them,  and  now  held  them 
close  to  their  hearts.  That  lie  had  received  such  good  accounts 
from  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  of  their  cousins,  the  Lower  Nez 
Perces,  that  he  had  become  desirous  of  knowing  them  as 
friends  and  brothers.  That  he  and  his  companions  had  accord- 
ingly loaded  a  mule  with  presents  and  set  oif  for  the  country 
of  the  Lower  Nez  Perces;  but,  unfortunately,  had  been  en- 
trapped for  many  days  among  the  snowy  mountains;  and 
that  the  mule  with  all  the  presents  had  fallen  into  Snake 
River,  and  been  swept  away  by  the  rapid  current.  That  in- 
stead, therefore,  of  arriving  among  their  friends,  the  Nez 
Perces,  with  light  hearts  and  full  hands,  they  came  naked, 
hungry,  and  broken  down ;  and  mstead  of  making  them  pres- 
ents, must  depend  upon  them  even  for  food.  "But,"  con- 
cluded he,  "  we  are  going  to  the  white  men's  fort  on  the  Wal- 
lah Wallah,  and  will  soon  return ;  and  then  we  will  meet  our 
Nez  Perce  friends  like  the  true  Big  Hearts  of  the  East." 

Whether  the  hint  thrown  out  in  the  latter  pait  of  the  speech 
had  any  effect,  or  whether  the  old  chief  acted  from  the  hospita- 
ble feelings  which,  according  to  the  captain,  are  really  inhe- 
rent in  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  he  certainly  showed  no  disposition 
to  relax  his  friendshii)  on  learning  the  destitute  circumstances 
of  his  guests.  On  the  contrary,  he  urged  the  captain  to  re- 
main with  them  until  the  following  day,  when  he  would  accom- 
pany him  on  his  journey,  and  make  him  acquainted  with  all 
his  people.  In  the  meantime  he  would  have  a  colt  killed,  and 
cut  up  for  travelling  provisions.  This,  he  carefully  explained, 
was  intended  not  as  an  article  of  traffic,  but  as  a  gift;  for  he 
saw  that  his  guests  were  hungry  and  in  need  of  food. 

Captain  Bonneville  gladly  assented  to  tliis  hospitable  ar- 
rangement. The  carcass  of  the  colt  was  forthcoming  in  due 
season,  but  the  captain  insisted  that  one  half  of  it  should  be  set 
apart  for  the  use  of  the  chieftain's  family. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  following  morning  the  little  party 
resmned  their  journey,  accompanied  by  the  old  chief  and  an 
Indian  guide.  Their  route  was  over  a  nigged  and  broken 
country;  where  the  hills  were  slippery  with  ice  and  snow. 
Their  horses,  too,  were  so  weak  and  jaded  that  they  could 
scarcely  climb  the  steep  ascents  or  maintain  their  footliold  on 
the  frozen  declivities.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the  journey, 
the  old  chief  and  the  guide  were  unremitting  in  their  good  of- 
fices, and  continually  on  the  alert  to  select  the  best  roads,  and 
assist  them  thi'ough  all  dilhculties.    Indeed  the  cai)tain  and 


200         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

his  comrades  had  to  be  dependent  on  their  Indian  friends  for 
ahnost  everything,  for  they  had  lost  tlieir  tobacco  and  pipes, 
those  great  comforts  of  the  trapper,  and  had  but  a  few  charges 
of  powder  left,  which  it  was  necessary  to  husband  for  tlie  pur- 
pose of  hghting  their  fires. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  the  old  chief  had  several  private 
consultations  with  the  guide,  and  showed  evident  signs  of 
being  occupied  with  some  mysterious  matter  of  mighty  im- 
port. What  it  was.  Captain  BonneviUe  could  not  fathom,  nor 
did  he  make  much  effort  to  do  so.  From  some  casual  sen- 
tences that  he  overheard,  he  perceived  that  it  was  something 
from  which  the  old  man  i:)romised  himself  nnich  satisfaction, 
and  to  which  he  attachec"  a  little  vainglory,  but  which  he 
wished  to  keep  a  secret;  so  he  suffered  him  to  spin  out  his 
petty  plans  unmolested. 

In  the  evening  when  they  encamped,  the  old  chief  and  his 
privy  counsellor,  the  guide,  had  another  mysterious  colloquy, 
after  which  the  guide  mounted  his  horse  and  departed  on 
some  secret  mission,  while  the  chief  resumed  his  scat  at  the 
fire,  and  sat  humming  to  himself  in  a  pleasing  but  mystic  rev- 
erie. 

The  next  morning  the  travellers  descended  into  the  valley  of 
the  Way- lee-way,  a  considerable  tributary  of  Snake  River. 
Here  they  met  the  gTiide  returning  from  his  secret  errand. 
Another  private  conference  was  held  between  him  and  the  old 
managing  chief,  who  now  seemed  more  inflated  than  ever 
with  mystery  and  self-importance.  Numerous  fresh  trails, 
and  various  other  signs  persuaded  Captain  Bonneville  that 
there  must  be  a  considerable  village  of  Nez  Perces  in  the 
neighborhood;  but  as  his  worthy  companion,  the  old  chief, 
said  nothing  on  the  subject,  and  as  it  appeared  to  be  in  some 
way  connected  with  his  secret  operations,  he  asked  no  ques- 
tions, but  patiently  awaited  the  development  of  his  naystery. 

As  they  journeyed  on  they  came  to  where  two  or  three  Indi- 
ans were  bathing  in  a  small  stream.  The  good  old  chief  imme- 
diately came  to  a  halt,  and  had  a  long  conversation  with  them, 
in  the  course  of  which  he  repeated  to  them  the  whole  history 
which  Captain  Bonneville  had  related  to  him.  In  fact,  he 
seems  to  have  been  a  very  sociable,  communicative  old  man; 
by  no  means  af.licted  with  that  taciturnity  generally  charged 
upon  the  Indians.  On  the  contrary,  he  was  fond  of  long  talks 
and  long  smokings,  and  evidently  was  proud  of  his  new  friend, 
the  bald-headed  chief,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  sounding  his 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         201 

praises,  and  setting  forth  the  power  and  glory  of  the  Big 
Hearts  of  the  East. 

Having  disburdened  himself  of  everything  he  had  to  relate 
to  his  batliing  friends,  he  left  them  to  their  aquatic  disports, 
and  proceeded  onwai'd  with  the  captain  and  his  companions. 
As  they  approached  the  Way-lee-way,  however,  the  commimi- 
cativ^e  old  chief  mot  with  another  and  a  very  different  occasion 
to  exert  his  collocpiial  i)owers.  On  the  banlcs  of  the  river  stood 
an  isolated  mound  covered  with  graps.  He  pointed  to  it  with 
some  emotion.  "  The  big  henrt  and  the  strong  arm,"  said  he, 
"  lie  buried  beneath  that  sod." 

It  was,  in  fact,  the  grave  of  one  of  his  friends;  a  chosen 
warrior  of  the  tribe;  ^vllo  had  been  slain  on  this  spot  when  in 
piireuit  of  a  war  party  of  Shoshokoes,  who  had  stolen  the 
norses  of  the  village.  The  enemy  bone  off  his  scalp  as  a 
trophy;  but  his  friends  found  his  body  in  this  lonely  place,  and 
commfttcd  it  to  the  earth  with  ceremonials  characteristic  of 
their  pious  and  reverential  feelings.  They  gathered  i-oimd  the 
grave  and  mourned;  the  warriors  were  silent  in  their  grief; 
but  the  women  and  children  bewailed  their  loss  with  loud 
lamentations.  "  For  three  days,"  said  the  old  man,  "we  per- 
formed the  solemn  dances  for  the  dead,  and  prayed  the  Great 
Spirit  that  our  brother  might  be  happj''  in  the  land  of  brave 
"varriors  and  hunters.  Then  we  killed  at  his  grave  fifteen  of 
our  best  and  strongest  horses,  to  serve  him  when  he  shoidd 
arrive  at  the  happy  hunting  grounds;  and  having  done  all 
this,  we  returned  sorrowfully  to  our  homes." 

While  the  chief  was  still  talking  an  Indian  scout  came  gal- 
loping up  and,  presenting  him  with  a  powder  horn,  wheeled 
round,  and  was  speedily  out  of  sight.  The  eyes  of  the  old 
chief  now  brightened;  and  all  his  self-importance  returned. 
His  petty  mystery  was  about  to  explode.  Turning  to  Captain 
Bonneville,  he  pointed  to  a  hill  hord  by,  and  informed  him 
that  behind  it  was  a  village  governed  by  a  little  chief,  Avhom 
he  had  notified  of  the  approach  of  the  bald-headed  chief,  and 
a  part}/  of  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East,  and  that  he  was  pre- 
pared to  receive  them  in  becoming  style.  As,  among  other 
ceremonials,  ho  intended  to  salute  them  with  a  dis(^harge  of 
firearms,  he  had  sent  the  horn  of  gunpowder  that  they  might 
return  the  salute  in  a  manner  correspondent  to  his  dignity. 

They  now  proceeded  on  tmtil  they  doubled  the  point  of  the 
hill,  when  the  whole  population  of  the  village  broke  upon  their 
view,  drawn  out  in  the  most  imposing  style,  and  arrayed  in  all 


202         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE 

their  finery.  The  effect  of  the  whole  was  wild  and  fantastic, 
yet  singularly  striking.  In  the  front  rank  wei'e  the  chiefs  and 
principal  warriors,  glaringly  painted  and  decorated;  behind 
them  were  arranged  the  rest  of  the  people,  men,  women,  and 
children. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  lais  party  advanced  slowly,  exchang- 
ing salutes  of  firearms.  "When  arrived  within  a  respectful 
distance  they  dismounted.  The  chiefs  then  came  forward  suc- 
cessively, according  to  their  respective  characters  and  conse- 
quence to  offer  the  hand  of  good-fellowship ;  each  filing  off 
when  he  had  shaken  hands,  to  make  way  for  his  successor. 
Those  in  the  next  rank  followed  in  the  same  order,  and  so  on, 
until  all  had  given  the  pledge  of  friendship.  During  all  this 
time,  the  chief,  according  to  custom,  took  his  stand  beside  the 
guests.  If  any  of  his  people  advanced  whom  he  judged  rni- 
worthy  of  the  friendship  or  confidence  of  the  white  men,  he 
motioned  them  off  by  a  wave  of  the  hand,  and  they  woidd  sub- 
missively walk  away.  When  Captain  Bonneville  turned  upon 
him  an  inquiring  look,  he  would  observe,  ' '  he  was  a  bad  man," 
or  something  quite  as  concise,  and  there  was  an  end  of  the 
matter. 

Mats,  poles,  and  other  materials  were  now  brought,  and  a 
comfortable  lodge  was  soon  erected  for  the  strangers,  where 
they  were  kept  constantly  supplied  with  wood  and  water,  and 
other  necessaries;  and  all  their  effects  were  placed  in  safe- 
keeping. Their  horses,  too,  were  unsaddled,  and  tinned  loose 
to  gTaze  and  a  guard  set  to  keep  watch  upon  them. 

All  this  being  adjusted  they  were  conducted  to  the  main 
building  or  council  house  of  the  \dllage,  where  an  ample  repast, 
or  rather  banquet,  was  spread,  which  seemed  to  realize  all  the 
gastronomical  dreams  that  had  tantahzed  them  during  their 
long  starvation ;  for  here  they  beheld  not  merely  fish  and  roots 
in  abundance,  but  the  flesh  of  deer  and  elk,  and  the  choicest 
pieces  of  buffalo  meat.  It  is  needless  to  say  how  vigorously 
they  acquitted  themselves  on  this  occasion,  and  how  unneces- 
sary it  was  for  their  hosts  to  practise  the  usual  cramming  prin- 
ciple of  Indian  hospitality. 

When  the  repast  was  over  a  long  talk  ensued.  The  chief 
showed  the  same  curiosity  evinced  by  his  tribe  generally,  to 
obtain  information  concerning  the  United  States,  of  which 
they  knew  little  but  what  they  derived  through  their  cousins, 
the  Upper  Nez  Perces;  as  their  traffic  is  almost  exclusively 
with  the  Bntish  traderr;  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.     Cap- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         203 

tain  Bonneville  did  his  bert  to  sot  forth  the  merits  of  his 
nation,  and  the  iniportaiice  of  their  friendship  to  the  red  men, 
in  which  he  was  ably  seconded  by  his  wcrthy  friend,  the  old 
chief  with  the  hard  name,  who  did  all  that  he  could  to  glorify 
the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East. 

The  chief  and  all  present  listened  with  profound  attention, 
and  evidently  Avith  great  interest;  nor  were  the  important 
facts  thus  set  forth  confined  to  the  audience  in  the  lodge;  lor 
sentence  after  sentence  was  loudly  repeated  by  a  crier  for  the 
benefit  of  the  whole  village. 

This  custom  of  promulgating  everything  by  criers  is  not 
confined  to  the  Nez  Perces,  but  prevails  among  many  other 
tribes.  It  has  its  advantage  where  there  are  no  gazettes  to 
publish  the  news  of  the  day,  or  to  report  the  proceedings  of 
important  meetings.  And  in  fact,  reports  of  this  kind,  viva 
voce,  made  in  the  hearing  of  all  parties,  and  liable  to  be  con- 
tradicted or  corrected  on  the  spot,  are  more  likely  to  convey 
accurate  information  to  the  public  mind  than  those  circulated 
through  the  press.  The  office  of  crier  is  generally  filled  by 
some  old  man,  who  is  good  for  little  else.  A  village  has  gener- 
ally several  of  these  walking  newspapers,  as  they  are  termed 
by  the  whites,  who  go  about  proclaiming  the  news  of  the  day, 
giving  notice  of  public  councils,  expeditions,  dances,  feasts, 
%nd  other  ceremonials,  and  advertising  anything  lost.  While 
Captain  Bonneville  remained  among  the  Nez  Perces,  if  a  glove, 
handkerchier,  or  anything  of  similar  value,  was  lost  or  mislaid, 
it  was  carried  by  the  finder  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  and  proc- 
lamation was  made  by  one  of  their  criers,  for  the  owner  to 
come  and  claim  his  property. 

How  difficult  it  is  to  get  at  the  true  character  of  these  wan- 
dering tribes  of  the  v/ildcrness !  In  a  recent  work,  we  have 
had  to  speak  of  this  tribe  of  Indians  from  the  experience  of 
other  traders  who  had  casually  been  among  them,  and  who 
represented  them  as  selfish,  inhospitable,  exorbitant  in  their 
dealings  and  much  addicted  to  thieving.*  Captain  Bonneville, 
on  the  contrary,  who  resided  much  among  them,  and  had  re- 
peated opportunities  of  ascertaining  their  real  character,  in- 
variably speaks  of  them  as  kind  and  hos])itab1e,  scrupulously 
honest,  and  rentarkable  above  all  other  Indians  that  ho  had 
met  with  for  a  strong  feeling  of  religion.  In  fact,  so  enthusi- 
astic is  he  in  their  praise,  that  he  pronounces  them,  all  igno- 


♦  Vide  Astoria,  chap.  lii. 


204         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

rant  and  barbarous  as  they  are  by  their  condition,  one  of  the 
purest-hearted  people  on  the  face  of  tlio  earth. 

Some  cures  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  erfoctcrl  in  simple 
cases,  among  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  had  reached  the  ears  of 
their  cousins  here,  and  gained  for  him  the  reputation  of  a 
great  medicine  man.  He  had  not  been  long  in  the  village, 
therefore,  before  his  lodge  began  to  be  the  resort  of  the  sick 
and  the  infirm.  The  captain  felt  the  value  of  the  reputation 
thus  accidentally  and  cheaply  acquired,  and  endeavored  to 
sustain  it.  As  he  had  arrived  at  that  age  when  every  man  is, 
experimentally,  something  of  a  physician,  he  was  enabled  to 
turn  to  advantage  the  httle  knowledge  in  the  healing  art 
wliich  he  had  casually  picked  up;  and  was  sufficiently  suc- 
cessful in  two  or  three  cases,  to  convince  the  simple  Indians 
that  report  had  not  exaggerated  his  medical  talents.  The  only 
patient  that  effectually  baffled  his  skill,  or  rather  discouraged 
any  attempt  at  relief,  was  an  antiquated  squaw  with  a  church- 
yard cough,  and  one  leg  in  the  grave ;  it  being  shrunk  and  ren- 
dered useless  by  a  rheumatic  affection.  This  was  a  case  beyond 
his  mark ;  however,  he  comforted  the  old  woman  with  a  promise 
that  he  would  endeavor  to  procure  something  to  relieve  her,  at 
the  fort  on  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  would  bring  it  on  his 're- 
turn ;  with  which  assurance  her  husband  was  so  weU  satisfied 
that  he  presented  the  captain  with  a  colt,  to  be  killed  as  pr<^ 
visions  for  the  journey;  a  medical  fee  which  was  thankfully 
accepted. 

While  among  these  Indians  Captain  BonneviUe  unexpectedly 
found  an  owner  for  the  horse  which  he  had  purchased  from  a 
Root  Digger  at  the  Big  Wyer.  The  Indian  satisfactorily  proved 
that  the  horse  had  been  stolen  from  him  some  time  previous, 
by  some  unknown  thief.  "However,"  said  the  considerate 
savage,  "you  got  him  in  fair  trade— you  are  more  in  want  of 
horses  than  I  am ;  keep  him ;  he  is  yours — he  is  a  good  horse ; 
use  him  well." 

Thus,  in  the  continual  experience  of  acts  of  kindness  and 
generosity,  which  his  destitute  condition  did  not  allow  him  to 
reciprocate,  Captain  Bonneville  passed  some  short  time  among 
these  good  people,  more  and  more  impressed  with  the  general 
excellence  of  their  charactei-. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         20:J 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

SCENERY  OF  THE  WAY-LEE- WAY— A  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  TORACCO — 
SUBLIME  SCENERY  OF  SNAIvE  RIVER  —  TEE  GARRULOUS  OLD 
CHIEF  AND  HIS  COUSIN— A  NEZ  PERCE  MEETING — A  STOLEN 
SKIN— THE  SCAPEGOAT  DOG- -MYSTERIOUS  CONFERENCES— THE 
LITTLE  CHIEF— HIS  HOSPITALITY— THE  CAPTAIN'S  ACCOUNT  OP 
THE  UNITED  STATES— HIS  HEALING  SKILL. 

In  resuming  his  joumey,  Captain  Bonneville  was  conducted 
by  the  same  Nez  Perce  guide,  whose  knowledge  o "  the  country 
was  important  in  choosing  the  routes  and  resting-places.  He 
also  continued  to  be  accompanied  by  the  worthy  old  chief  with 
the  hard  name,  who  seemed  bent  upon  doing  the  honors  of  the 
country,  and  introducing  him  to  every  branch  of  his  tribe. 
The  AV  ay -lee-way,  down  the  banks  of  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  companions  were  now  travelling,  is  a  considera- 
ble stream  winding  through  a  succession  of  bold  and  beautiful 
rcenes.  Sometimes  the  landscape  towered  into  bold  and  moun- 
tainous heights  that  partook  of  sublimity;  'at  other  times  it 
stretched  along  the  water  side  in  fresh  smilmg  meadows  and 
grateful  undulating  vaUeys. 

Frequently  in  their  route  they  encountered  small  parties  of 
the  Nez  Perces,  with  whom  they  invariably  stopped  to  shako 
hands;  and  who,  generally,  evinced  great  curiosity  concerning 
them  and  their  adventures ;  a  curiosit j"  which  never  failed  to 
be  thoroughly  satisfied  by  the  replies  of  the  worthy  Yo-mus- 
ro-y-e-cut,  who  kindly  took  upon  himself  to  be  spokesman  of 
the  party. 

The  incessant  smoking  of  pipes  incident  to  the  long  talks  of 
this  excellent,  but  somewhat  garrulous  old  chief,  at  length  ex- 
hausted all  his  stock  of  tobacco,  so  that  he  had  no  longer  a 
whilT  with  which  to  regale  his  white  companions.  In  this 
emergency  ho  cut  up  the  stem  of  his  pipe  into  fine  sha\-ings, 
which  he  mixed  with  certain  herbs,  and  thus  mnmifactured  a 
temporarj  succedaneum  tij  enal>le  him  to  accompany  his  long 
colloquies  and  harangues  with  the  customary  fragrant  cloud. 

If  the  scenery  of  the  Way-lee- way  had  charmed  the  travel- 
lers with  its  mingled  amenity  and  grandeur,  that  wliich  broke 


^06         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

\ipon  tlicm  on  once  more  reaching  Snake  River,  filled  tbem 
with  admiration  and  astonishment.  At  times,  the  river  was 
overhung  by  dark  and  stupendous  rocks,  rising  Hke  gigantic 
walls  and  battlements ;  these  would  be  rent  by  wide  and  yawn- 
ing chasms,  that  seemed  to  speak  of  past  convulsions  of  nature. 
Sometimes  the  river  was  of  a  glassy  smoothness  and  placidit}", 
at  other  times  it  roared  along  in  impetuous  rapids  and  foaming 
cascades.  Here,  the  rocks  were  piled  in  the  most  fantastic 
crags  and  precipices;  and  in  another  place  they  were  suc- 
ceeded by  delightful  valleys  carpeted  with  greensward.  The 
whole  of  this  wild  and  varied  scenery  was  dominated  by  im- 
mense mountains  rearing  their  distant  peaks  into  the  clouds. 
"The  grandeur  and  originality  of  the  views  presented  on 
every  side,"  says  Captain  Bonneville,  "beggar  both  the  pencil 
and  the  pen.  Nothing  we  had  ever  gazed  upon  in  any  other 
region  could  for  a  moment  compare  in  wUd  majesty  and  im- 
pressive sternness  with  the  series  of  scenes  which  here  at 
every  turn  astonished  our  senses  and  filled  us  with  awe  and 
delight." 

Indeed,  from  all  that  we  can  gather  from  the  journal  before 
us,  and  the  accounts  of  other  travellei's,  who  passed  through 
these  regions  in  the  memorable  enterprise  of  Astoria,  we  are 
inclined  to  think  that  Snake  River  must  be  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable for  varied  and  striking  scenery  of  all  the  rivers  of 
this  continent.  From  its  head-waters  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, to  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  its  windings  are  up- 
ward of  six  hundred  mUes  through  every  variety  of  landscape. 
Rising  in  a  volcanic  region,  amid  extinguished  craters,  and 
mountains  awful  with  the  traces  of  ancient  fires,  it  makes  its 
way  through  great  plains  of  lava  and  sandy  deserts,  penetrates 
vast  sierras  or  mountainous  chains,  broken  into  romantic  and 
often  frightful  precipices,  and  crowned  with  eternal  snows; 
and  at  other  times  careers  through  green  and  smiling  mead- 
ows and  wide  landscapes  of  Itahan  grace  and  beauty.  Wild- 
ness  and  subUmity,  however,  appear  to  be  its  prevailing  char- 
acteristics. 

Captain  BonneviUe  and  his  companions  had  pursued  their 
journey  a  considerable  distance  down  the  course  of  Snake 
River,  when  the  old  chief  halted  on  the  banlc,  and  dismounting, 
recommended  that  they  should  turn  their  horses  loose  to  graze, 
while  he  summoned  a  cousin  of  his  from  a  group  of  lodges  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  stream.  His  summons  was  quickly 
aiaswered.    An  Indian,  of  an  active,  elastic  form,  leaped  into  a 


ABVENTUUES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         007 

light  canoe  of  cotton-wood,  and  vigorously  plying  the  paddlo, 
soon  shot  across  the  river.  Bounding  on  shore,  he  advanced 
with  a  buoyant  air  and  irank  demeanor,  and  gave  his  right 
hand  to  eacli  of  tlie  party  in  turn.  The  old  chief,  whose  hard 
name  we  forbear  to  repeat,  now  presented  Captain  Bonneville, 
in  form,  to  his  cousin,  whoso  name,  we  regret  to  say,  was  no 
less  hard,  being  ni^thing  less  than  Hay-she-in-cow-cow.  The 
latter  evinced  the  usual  curiosity'  to  know  all  about  the  stran- 
gers, whence  they  came,  whither  they  were  going,  the  object 
of  their  jouniey,  and  the  adventures  they  had  experienced. 
All  these,  of  course,  were  amply  and  eloquently  set  forth  by 
the  communicative  old  chief.  To  all  his  grandiloquent  account 
of  the  bald-headed  chief  and  his  countrymen,  the  Big  Hearts 
of  the  East,  his  cousin  listened  with  great  attention,  and  replied 
in  the  customary  style  of  Indian  Avelcome.  He  then  desired 
the  party  to  await  his  return,  and,  sponging  into  his  canoe, 
darted  across  the  river.  In  a  httle  while  he  returned,  bringing 
a  most  welcome  supply  of  tobacco,  and  a  smoll  stock  of  pro- 
visions for  the  read,  declaring  his  intention  of  accompanying 
the  party.  Having  no  horse,  he  mounted  behind  one  of  the 
men,  observing  that  he  should  procure  a  steed  for  himself  on 
the  following  day. 

They  all  now  jogged  on  very  sociably  and  cheerily  together. 
Not  many  miles  beyond,  they  met  others  of  the  tribe,  among 
whom  was  one  whom  Caj^tain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades 
had  known  during  their  residence  among  the  Upper  Nez 
Perces,  and  who  welcomed  them  with  open  arms.  In  this 
neighborhood  was  the  home  of  their  guide,  who  took  leavo  of 
them  with  a  profusion  of  good  wishes  for  their  safety  and  hap- 
piness. That  night  they  put  up  in  the  hut  of  a  Nez  Perce, 
where  they  were  visited  by  several  warriors  from  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  friends  of  the  old  chief  and  his  cousin,  who 
came  to  have  a  talk  and  a  smoke  with  the  white  men.  The 
heart  of  the  good  old  chief  was  overflo^ving  with  good-will  at 
thus  being  surrounded  by  his  new  and  old  friends,  and  he 
talked  with  more  spirit  and  vivacity  than  ever.  The  evening 
passed  away  in  i^erfect  harmony  and  good-hnmor,  and  it  was 
not  until  a  late  hoiu-  that  the  visitors  took  their  leave  and  re- 
crossed  the  river. 

After  this  constant  picture  of  worth  and  virtue  on  the  pnrt 
of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  wo  grieve  to  have  to  record  a  circiun- 
stance  calculated  to  throw  a  temporary  shade  upon  the  name. 
In  the  course  of  the  social  and  harmonious  evening  just  men- 


208         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

tioned,  one  of  the  captain's  men,  who  happened  to  be  some- 
thing of  a  virtuoso  in  his  way,  and  fond  of  collecting  cnriosi- 
ties,  produced  a  small  skin,  a  great  rarity  in  the  eyes  of  men 
conversant  in  peltries.  It  attracted  much  attention  among  the 
visitors  from  beyond  the  river,  who  passed  it  from  one  to  the 
other,  exaixiined  it  with  looks  of  lively  admiration,  and  pro- 
nounced it  a  great  medicine. 

In  the  morning,  when  the  captain  and  his  party  were  about 
to  set  off,  the  precious  skin  was  missing.  Search  was  made 
for  it  in  the  hut,  but  it  was  nowhere  to  be  found ;  and  it  was 
strongly  suspected  that  it  had  been  purloined  by  some  of  the 
connoisseurs  from  the  other  side  of  the  river. 

The  old  chief  and  his  cousin  were  indignant  at  the  supposed 
delinquency  of  their  friends  across  the  water,  and  called  out 
for  them  to  come  over  and  answer  for  their  shameful  conduct. 
The  others  answered  to  the  call  with  all  the  promptitude  of 
perfect  innocence,  and  spurned  at  the  idea  of  their  being  capa- 
ble of  such  outrage  upon  any  of  the  Big-hearted  nation.  All 
were  at  a  loss  on  whom  to  fix  the  crime  of  abstracting  the  in- 
valuable skin,  when  by  chance  the  eyes  of  the  worthies  from 
beyond  the  water  fell  upon  an  unhappy  cur,  belonging  to  the 
owner  of  the  hut.  He  was  a  gallows-looking  dog,  but  not  more 
so  than  most  Indian  dogs  who,  take  them  in  the  mass,  arc  little 
better  than  a  generation  of  vipers.  Be  that  as  it  may,  he  was 
instantly  accused  of  having  devoured  the  skin  in  question.  A 
dog  accused  is  generally  a  dog  condemned;  and  a  dog  con- 
demned is  generally  a  dog  executed.  So  was  it  in  the  present 
instance.  The  unfortunate  cur  was  arraigned;  his  thievish 
looks  substantiated  his  guilt,  and  he  was  condemned  by  his 
judges  from  across  the  river  to  be  hanged.  In  vain  the  In- 
dians of  the  hut,  with  whom  he  was  a  great  favorite,  interceded 
in  his  behalf.  In  vain  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades 
petitioned  that  his  hf :)  might  be  spared.  His  judges  were  inex- 
orable. He  was  doubly  guilty ;  first,  in  having  robbed  their 
good  friends,  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East ;  secondly,  in  having 
brought  a  doubt  on  the  honor  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe.  He  was, 
accordingly,  swung  aloft,  and  pelted  with  stones  to  make 
his  death  more  certain.  The  sentence  of  the  judges  being 
thoroughly  executed,  a  post  mortem  examination  of  the  body 
of  the  dog  was  held  to  establish  his  delinquency  beyond  all 
doubt,  and  to  leave  the  Nez  Perces  without  a  sliadow  of  suspi- 
cion. Great  interest,  of  course,  was  manifested  by  all  present, 
during  this  operation.    The  body  of  the  dog  was  opened,  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         209 

intestines  rigorously  scrniinizod,  but,  to  the  horror  of  all  con- 
cerned, not  a  particle  of  the  skin  was  to  be  found — the  dog  had 
been  unjustly  executed. 

A  great  clamor  now  ensued,  but  the  most  clamorous  w-as  tho 
party  from  across  the  river,  whose  jealousy  of  their  good  name 
now  prompted  them  to  the  most  vociferous  vindications  of 
their  innocence.  It  VN-as  w  ith  the  utmost  difficulty  that  tho 
captain  and  his  comrades  could  calm  their  lively  scnsihihtics, 
by  accounting  for  tho  disappearance  of  the  skin  in  a  dozen 
different  ways,  until  all  idea  of  its  having  been  stolen  was 
entirel}^  out  of  the  question. 

The  meeting  now  broke  up.  The  warriors  returned  across 
the  river,  the  captain  and  his  comrades  proceeded  on  their 
journey;  but  the  spirits  of  the  commimicative  old  chief,  Yo- 
mus-ro-y-e-cut,  w^ere  for  a  time  completely  dampened,  and  he 
evinced  great  mortification  at  Avhat  had  just  occurred.  He 
rode  on  in  silence,  excoi>t  that  now  and  then  he  would  give 
way  to  a  burst  of  indignation,  and  exclaim,  with  a  sliako  of  the 
head  and  a  toss  of  the  hand  toward  the  opposite  shore — "bad 
men,  very  bad  men  across  the  river ;"  to  each  of  wliich  brief 
exclamations,  his  woi-thy  cousin,  Hay-she-in-cow-cow,  would 
respond  by  a  deep  guttin-al  soimd  of  acquiescence,  ccjuivalent 
to  an  amen. 

After  some  time  the  countenance  of  the  old  chief  again 
cleared  up,  and  he  fell  into  repeated  conferences,  in  an  mider- 
tono,  with  his  cousin,  which  ended  in  the  departure  of  the  lat- 
ter, who,  applying  the  lash  to  his  horse,  dashed  forward  and 
was  soon  out  of  sight.  In  fact,  they  were  drawing  near  to  the 
village  of  another  chief,  likewise  distinguished  by  an  appella- 
tion of  some  longitude,  0-push-y-e-cut,  but  commonly  known 
as  the  gi-eat  chief.  The  cousin  had  been  sent  ahead  to  give 
notice  of  their  approach ;  a  herald  appeared  as  before,  bearing 
a  powder-horn,  to  enable  them  to  respond  to  the  intended  sa- 
hite.  A  scene  ensued,  on  their  approach  to  the  village,  similar 
to  that  which  had  occurred  at  the  village  of  the  little  chief. 
The  whole  population  appeared  in  the  field,  drawn  up  in  lines, 
arrayed  with  the  customary  regard  to  rank  and  dignity.  Tbcn 
came  on  the  firing  of  salutes,  and  the  shaking  of  hands,  in 
which  last  ceremonial  every  indiAadual,  man,  woman,  and 
child,  participated ;  for  the  Indians  have  an  idea  that  it  is  as 
indispensable  an  overture  of  friendship  among  the  whites  as 
smoking  of  the  pipe  is  among  the  red  men.  Tlie  travellers 
were  next  ushered  to  the  banquet,  where  all  the  choicest  vi- 


210         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

ands  that  the  village  could  furnish,  were  served  up  in  rich  pro- 
fusion. They  were  afterAvard  ontei'tained  by  feats  of  agility 
and  horse-races ;  indeed  their  visit  to  the  village  seemed  the 
signal  for  complete  festivity.  In  the  meantime,  a  skin  lodge 
had  been  spread  for  their  accommodation,  their  horses  and 
baggage  were  taken  care  of,  and  wood  and  water  supplied  in 
abundance.  At  night,  therefore,  they  retired  to  their  quar- 
ters, to  enjoy,  as  they  supposed,  the  repose  of  which  they 
♦;tood  in  need.  No  such  thing,  however,  was  in  store  for  them. 
A-  crowd  of  visitors  awaited  their  appearance,  all  eager  for  a 
i;moke  and  a  talk.  The  pipe  was  immediately  lighted,  and 
4!onstantly  replenished  and  kept  alive  until  the  night  was  far 
advanced.  As  usual,  the  utmost  eagerness  was  evinced  by  the 
guests  to  learn  everything  within  the  scope  of  their  compre- 
hension respecting  the  Americans,  for  whom  they  professed 
the  most  fraternal  regai'd.  The  captain,  in  his  replies,  made 
use  of  fairdliar  illustrations  calculated  to  strike  their  minds, 
iind  impress  them  with  such  an  idea  of  the  might  of  his  nation 
as  would  induce  them  to  treat  with  kindness  and  respect  all 
stragglers  that  might  fall  in  their  path.  To  their  inquiries  as 
to  the  numbers  of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  he  assured 
them  that  they  were  as  countless  as  the  blades  of  grass  in  the 
prairies,  and  that,  great  as  Snake  River  was,  if  they  were  all 
encamped  upon  its  banks  they  would  drink  it  dry  in  a  single 
day.  To  these  and  similar  statistics  they  listened  with  pro- 
found attention  and  apparently  implicit  belief.  It  was,  indeed, 
a  striking  scene :  the  captain,  with  his  hunter's  dress  and  bald 
head  in  the  midst,  holding  forth,  and  his  wild  auditors  seated 
around  like  so  many  statues,  the  fire  lighting  up  their  painted 
faces  and  muscular  figures,  all  fixed  and  motionless,  excepting 
when  the  pipe  was  passed,  a  question  propounded,  or  a  start- 
ling fact  in  statistics  received  with  a  movement  of  surprise  and 
a  half-suppressed  ejaculation  of  wonder  and  delight. 

The  fame  of  the  captain  as  a  healer  of  diseases  had  accom- 
panied him  to  this  village,  and  the  great  chief  0-push-y-e-cut 
now  entreated  him  to  exert  his  skill  on  his  daughter,  who  had 
been  for  three  days  racked  with  pains,  for  -which  the  Pierced- 
nose  doctors  could  devise  no  alleviation.  The  captain  found 
her  extended  on  a  pallet  of  mats  in  excruciating  pain.  Her 
father  manifested  the  strongest  paternal  affection  for  her,  and 
assured  the  captain  that  if  he  would  but  cure  her,  he  would 
place  the  Amei-icans  near  his  heai't.  The  w^orthy  captain 
needed  no  such  inducement.     His  kind  heart  was   already 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         211 

touched  by  the  sufforinps  of  the  poor  girl,  and  his  sympatliins 
quickened  by  her  appearance;  for  she  Avas  but  about  sixteen 
years  of  age,  and  uncommonly  beautiful  in  form  and  feature. 
The  only  difficulty  with  the  captain  was  that  he  knew  nothing 
of  her  malady,  and  tliat  his  medical  science  was  of  a  most  hap- 
hazard kind.  After  considering  and  cogitating  for  some  time, 
as  a  man  is  apt  to  do  when  in  a  maze  of  vague  ideas,  he  made 
a  desperate  dash  at  a  remedy.  By  his  directions  the  girl  was 
placed  in  a  sort  of  rude  vapor  bath,  much  used  by  the  Nez 
Perces,  where  she  was  kept  imtil  near  fainting.  He  then  gave 
her  a  dose  of  gunpowder  dissolved  in  cold  water,  and  ordered 
her  to  be  wrapped  in  buft'alo  robes  and  put  to  sleep  luider  a 
load  of  furs  and  blankets.  The  remedy  succeeded;  the  next 
morning  she  was  free  from  pain,  though  extremely  languid; 
whereupon  the  captain  prescribed  for  her  a  bowl  of  colt  s  head 
broth,  and  that  she  should  be  kept  for  a  time  on  simple  diet. 

The  great  cliief  was  unboimdod  in  his  expressions  of  grati- 
tude for  the  recovery  of  his  daughter.  He  would  fain  have 
detained  the  captain  a  long  time  as  his  guest,  but  the  time  for 
departure  had  arrived.  When  the  captain's  horse  was  brought 
for  him  to  mount,  the  chief  declared  that  the  steed  was  not 
worthy  of  him,  and  sent  for  one  of  his  best  horses,  which  he 
presented  in  its  stead ;  declaring  that  it  made  his  heart  glad  to 
see  his  friend  so  well  mounted.  He  then  appointed  a  young 
Nez  Perce  to  accompany  his  guest  to  the  next  village,  and  ' '  to 
carry  his  talk"  concerning  them;  and  the  two  parties  separated 
with  mutual  expressions  of  kindness  and  feelings  of  good-will. 

The  vapor  bath  of  which  we  have  made  mention  is  in  fre- 
qiient  use  among  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  chiefly  for  cleanliness. 
Their  sweating-houses,  as  they  call  them,  are  small  and  close 
lodges,  and  the  vapor  is  produced  by  water,  poured  slowly  upon 
red-hot  stones. 

On  passing  the  limits  of  D-push-y-e-cut's  domains,  the  travel- 
lers left  the  elevated  table-lands,  and  all  the  wild  and  romantic 
scenery  which  has  just  been  described.  They  now  traversed  a 
gently  undulating  country,  of  such  fertility  that  it  excited  the 
rapturous  admiration  of  two  of  the  captain's  followers,  a  Ken- 
tuckian  and  a  native  of  Ohio.  They  declared  that  it  siirpassed 
any  land  that  they  had  ever  seen,  and  often  exclaimed  wliat  a 
delight  it  would  be  just  to  run  a  plough  through  such  a  rich 
and  teeming  soil,  and  see  it  ojien  its  bountiful  promise  before 
the  share. 

Another  halt  and  sojourn  of  a  night  was  made  at  the  village 


212         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

of  a  chief  named  He-mim-cl-pilp,  where  similar  ceremonies 
were  observed  and  hospitality  experienced  as  at  the  preced- 
ing villages.  They  now  pursued  a  west-southwest  course 
through  a  beautiful  and  fertile  region,  better  wooded  than  most 
of  the  tracts  through  which  they  had  passed.  In  their  pro- 
gress, they  met  with  several  bands  of  Nez  Perces,  by  whom 
they  were  invariably  treated  with  the  utmost  kindness.  With- 
in seven  days  after  leaving  the  domain  of  He-mim.-el-pilp,  they 
struck  the  Columbia  River  at  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  where  they 
axrived  on  the  4th  of  March,  1834. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

FORT  WALLAH-WALLAH  —  ITS  COMMANDER  —  LNDIANS  IN  ITS 
NEIGHBORHOOD  —  EXERTIONS  OF  MR.  PAMBRUNE  FOR  THEIR 
IMPROVEMENT  —  RELIGION — CODE  OF  LAWS  —  RANGE  OF  THE 
LOWER  NEZ  PERCES— CAMASH,  AND  OTHER  ROOTS — ^NEZ  PERCE 
HORSES — PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE — REFUSAL  OF  SUP- 
PLIES—DEPARTURE— A  LAGGARD  AND  GLUTTON. 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah  is  a  trading-post  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  situated  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia.  It  is 
built  of  drift-wood,  and  calculated  merely  for  defence  against 
any  attack  of  the  natives.  At  the  time  of  Captain  Uonneville's 
arrival,  the  whole  garrison  mustered  but  sb:  or  eight  men: 
and  the  post  was  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Pambrune, 
an  agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

The  great  post  and  fort  of  the  company,  forming  the  em- 
porium of  its  trade  on  the  Pacific,  is  Fort  Vancouver;  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  about  sixty  miles  from  the 
sea,  and  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamut.  To  this  point 
the  company  removed  its  estabhshment  from  Astoria,  in  1821, 
after  its  coahtion  with  the  Northwest  Company. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades  experienced  a  polite 
reception  from  Mr.  Pambrune,  the  superintendent:  for,  how- 
ever hostUe  the  membeis  of  the  British  Company  may  be  to 
the  enterprises  of  American  traders,  they  have  always  mani- 
fested great  courtesy  and  hospitality  to  the  traders  themselves. 

Fort  Wallah- Wallah  is  surrounded  b^-  the  tribe  of  the  same 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPrMN  BONNEVILLE.         013 

name,  as  well  as  by  the  Skynses  and  the  Ncz  Perrcs ;  Avho 
bring  to  it  the  furs  and  peltries  eoUected  in  tbeir  hunting  ex- 
peditions. The  Wallali-Wallahs  arc  a  degenerate,  wornout 
tribe.  The  Nez  Perces  are  tlie  most  numerous  and  tractable 
of  the  three  tribes  just  mentioned.  Mr.  Pambrune  informed 
Captain  Bonneville  that  ho  had  been  at  some  pains  to  intro- 
duce the  Christian  religion,  in  the  Roman  Catholic  form, 
among  them,  where  it  had  evidently  taken  root ;  but  had  be- 
come altered  and  modified  to  suit  their  pecuhar  habits  of 
thought  and  motives  of  action ;  retaining,  however,  the  princi- 
pal points  of  faith  and  its  entire  precepts  of  morality.  The 
same  gentleman  had  given  them  a  code  of  laws,  to  which  they 
conformed  with  scrupulous  fidelity.  Polygamy,  which  once 
prevailed  among  them  to  a  great  extent,  was  now  rarely  in- 
dulged. All  the  crimes  denounced  by  the  Chaistian  faith  met 
with  severe  punishment  among  them.  Even  theft,  so  venial  a 
crime  among  the  Indians,  had  recently  been  punished  with 
hanging,  by  sentence  of  a  chief. 

There  certainly  appears  to  be  a  peculiar  susceptibility  of 
moral  and  religious  improven^ent  among  tkis  tiibe,  and  they 
would  seem  to  be  one  of  the  very,  very  few  that  have  bene- 
fited in  morals  and  manners  by  an  intercourse  with  white 
men.  The  parties  which  visited  them  about  twenty  years 
previously,  in  the  expedition  fitted  out  by  Mr.  Astor,  com- 
plained of  their  selfishness,  their  extortion,  and  their  thievish 
propensities.  Tlie  very  reverse  of  those  qualities  prevailed 
among  them  during  the  prolonged  sojourns  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville. 

The  Lower  Nez  Perces  range  upon  the  Way -lee -way,  Im- 
mahah,  Yenghies,  and  other  of  the  streams  west  of  the  moun- 
tains. They  hunt  the  beaver,  elk,  deer,  white  bear,  and 
mountain  sheep.  Beside  the  flesh  of  these  animals,  they  use  a 
ninnber  of  roots  for  food  ;  some  of  which  would  be  well  worth 
transplanting  and  cultivating  in  the  Atlantic  States.  Among 
these  is  the  camash,  a  sweet  root,  about  tlio  form  and  size  of 
an  onion,  and  said  to  be  really  delicious.  The  cowish,  also,  or 
biscuit  root,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  which  they  reduce  to  a 
very  palatable  Hour ;  together  with  the  jackap  aisish,  quako, 
and  others ;  which  they  cook  by  steaming  them  in  the  ground. 
In  August  and  September,  these  Indians  keep  along  the  rivci*s, 
where  they  catch  and  dry  j^Toat  quantities  of  salmon;  Avhich, 
while  they  last,  are  their  principal  food.  In  the  winter  they 
congregate  in  villages  formed  of  comfortable  huts,  or  lodges, 


214         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

covered  with  mats.  They  are  generally  clad  in  deer  skins,  or 
woollens,  and  extremely  weU  armed.  Above  all,  they  are 
celebrated  for  owning  great  ninnbers  of  horses;  which  they 
mark,  and  then  suiter  to  range  in  droves  in  their  most  fertile 
plains.  These  horses  are  principally  of  the  pony  breed ;  but 
remarkably  stout  and  long-winded.  They  are  brought  in  gi-eat 
numbers  to  the  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  sold  for  a  mere  trifle. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  the  Nez 
Perces ;  who,  if  not  viewed  by  him  with  too  pai-tial  an  eye,  are 
certainly  among  the  gentlest  and  least  barbarous  people  of 
these  remote  wildernesses.  They  uavariably  signified  to  him 
their  earnest  w4sh  that  an  American  post  might  be  established 
among  them ;  and  repeatedly  declared  that  they  would  trade 
with  Americans  in  j) reference  to  any  other  people. 

Captain  Bonne^alle  had  intended  to  remain  some  time  in  this 
neighborhood,  to  form  an  acquaintance  with  the  natives  and 
to  collect  information,  and  establish  connections  that  might  be 
advantageous  m  the  way  of  trade.  The  delays,  however, 
which  he  had  experienced  on  his  journey,  obliged  him  to 
shorten  his  sojourn,  and  to  set  off  as  soon  as  possible,  so  as  to 
reach  the  rendezvous  at  the  Portneuf  at  the  appointed  time. 
He  had  seen  enough  to  convince  him  that  an  American  trade 
might  be  carried  on  \ni\\  advantage  in  this  quarter;  and  he 
determined  soon  to  return  with  a  stronger  party,  more  com- 
pletely fitted  for  the  purpose. 

As  he  stood  in  need  of  some  supplies  for  his  journey,  he  ap- 
plied to  purchase  thc»m  of  Mr.  Pambrune ;  but  soon  found  the 
difference  between  being  treated  as  a  guest,  or  as  a  rival 
trader.  The  worthy  superintendent,  Avho  had  extended  to 
him  all  the  genial  rites  of  hospitality,  now  suddenly  assumed 
a  ■withered  up  aspect  and  demeanor,  and  observed  that,  how- 
ever he  might  feel  disposed  to  serve  him,  personally,  he  felt 
bound  by  his  duty  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  do  noth- 
ing which  should  facilitate  or  encourage  the  visits  of  other 
traders  among  the  Indians  in  that  part  of  the  country.  He 
endeavored  to  dissuade  Captain  Bonneville  from  returning 
through  the  Blue  Mountains;  assuring  him  it  would  bo  ex- 
tremely difficult  and  dangerous,  if  not  impracticable,  at  this 
season  of  the  year;  and  advised  him  to  accompany  Mr. 
Payette,  a  leader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  was 
about  to  depart  with  a  number  of  men,  by  a  more  circuitous, 
but  safe  route,  to  carry  supplies  to  the  company's  agent,  resi- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         2]5 

dent  among  the  Upper  Nez  Perces.  Captain  Bonneville,  how- 
evex",  piqued  at  his  having  refused  to  furnish  him  with  siip- 
plies,  and  doubting  the  sincerity  of  his  advice,  determined  to 
return  by  the  more  direct  route  through  the  mountains; 
thoixgh  varying  his  course,  in  some  respects,  from  that  by 
which  ho  had  come,  in  consequence  of  information  gathered 
among  the  neighboring  Indians. 

Accordingly,  on  the  Gth  of  March  he  and  his  three  com- 
panions, accompanied  by  their  Nez  Perce  guides,  set  out  on 
their  return.  In  the  early  part  of  then-  course,  they  toudied 
again  at  several  of  the  Nez  Perce  villages,  where  they  had  ex- 
perienced such  kind  treatment  on  their  way  down.  They  were 
always  welcomed  with  cordiality;  and  everything  was  done  to 
cheer  them  on  their  journey. 

On  leaving  the  Way-lce-way  village,  they  were  joined  by  a 
Nez  Pei'ce,  whose  society  was  welcomed  on  account  of  the 
general  gratitude  and  good-will  they  felt  for  his  tribe.  Ho 
soon  proved  a  heavy  clog  upon  the  little  party,  being  doltish 
and  taciturn,  lazy  in  the  extreme,  and  a  huge  feeder.  His 
only  proof  of  intellect  was  in  shrewdly  avoiding  all  labor,  and 
availing  himself  of  the  toil  of  others.  When  on  the  mai'ch,  he 
always  lagged  behind  the  rest,  leaving  to  them  the  task  of 
breaking  a  way  through  all  difficulties  and  impediments,  and 
leisurely  and  lazily  jogging  along  the  track,  which  they  had 
beaten  through  the  snow.  At  the  evening  encampment,  when 
others  were  busy  gathering  fuel,  providing  for  the  horses,  and 
cooking  the  evening  repast,  this  worthy  Sancho  of  the  wilder- 
ness would  take  his  seat  (juietly  and  cosily  by  the  fire,  puffing 
away  at  his  pipe,  and  eyeing  in  silence,  but  with  Avistful  inten- 
sity of  gaze,  the  savory  morsels  roasting  for  sujiper. 

When  meal-time  arrived,  however,  then  came  his  seaf?on  of 
activity.  He  no  longer  hung  back,  and  waited  for  others  to 
take  the  lead,  but  distinguished  himself  by  a  brilliancy  of  on- 
set and  a  sustained  vigor  and  duration  of  attack  that  com- 
pletely sham(;d  the  etforts  of  his  competitors — albeit,  experi- 
enced trenchermen  of  no  mean  prowess.  Never  had  th(>y 
witnessed  such  power  of  mastication  and  such  marvellous 
capacity  of  stomach  as  in  this  native  and  uncidtivated  gas- 
tronome. Having,  by  repeated  and  prolonged  assaults,  at 
length  completely  gorged  himself,  he  would  wrap  himself  up, 
and  lie  with  the  torpor  of  an  anaconda,  slowly  digesting  his 
way  on  to  the  next  rej^ast. 

The  gormandizing  powers  of  this  worthy  were,  at  first,  mat- 


216         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

tors  of  surprise  and  merriment  to  the  travellers ;  but  they  soon 
became  too  serious  for  a  joke,  threatening  devastation  to  the 
fleshpots;  and  he  was  regarded  askance,  at  his  meals,  as  a 
regular  kill-crop,  destined  to  waste  the  substance  of  the  party. 
Nothing  but  a  sense  of  the  obligations  they  were  under  to  his 
nation  induced  them  to  bear  Avith  such  a  guest;  but  he  pro- 
ceeded, speedily,  to  relieve  them  from  the  weight  of  these 
obligations,  by  eating  a  receipt  m  full. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

THE  UNIlSrVITED  GUEST— FREE  AND  EASY  MANNERS — SALUTARY 
JOKES— A  PRODIGAL  SON — EXIT  OF  THE  GLUTTON— A  SUDDEN 
CHANGE  IN  FORTUNE— DANGER  OP  A  VISIT  TO  POOR  RELATIONS 
—PLUCKING  OF  A  PROSPEROUS  MAN — A  VAGABOND  TOILET— 
A  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  THE  VERY  FINE  HORSE— HARD  TRAVELLING 
— THE  UNINVITED  GUEST  AND  THE  PATRIARCHAL  COLT— A 
BEGGAR  ON  HORSEBACK— A  CATASTROPHE— EXIT  OF  THE  MERRY 
VAGABOND. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  were  encamped  one 
evening  among  the  hills  near  Snake  River,  seated  before  their 
fire,  enjoying  a  hearty  supper,  they  were  suddenly  surprised 
by  the  visit  of  an  uninvited  guest.  He  was  a  ragged,  half- 
naked  Indian  hunter,  armed  with  bow  and  arrows,  and  had 
the  carcass  of  a  fine  buck  thrown  across  his  shoulder.  Ad- 
vancing with  an  alert  step,  and  free  and  easy  air,  he  threw  the 
buck  on  the  gi'ound,  and,  without  waiting  for  an  invitation, 
seated  himself  at  their  mess,  helped  himself  without  ceremony, 
and  chatted  to  the  right  and  left  in  the  liveliest  and  most  un- 
embaiTassed  manner.  No  adroit  and  veteran  dinner  hunter  of 
a  metropolis  could  have  acquitted  himself  more  knowingly. 
The  travellers  Avere  at  first  completely  taken  by  surprise,  and 
could  not  but  admire  the  facility  with  which  this  ragged  cosmop- 
olite made  himself  at  home  among  them.  While  they  stared 
he  went  on,  making  the  most  of  the  good  cheer  upon  which  he 
had  so  fortunately  alighted;  and  w\as  soon  elbow  deep  in  "pot 
luck"  and  greased  from  the  tip  of  his  nose  to  the  back  of  his 
ears. 

As  the  company  recovered  from  their  surprise,  they  began 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         2\1 

t«  feel  annoyed  at  this  intrusion.  Their  luiinvited  guest,  lui- 
likc  the  generahty  of  his  tribe,  was  somewhat  dirty  as  well  as 
ragged  and  they  had  no  rehsh  for  sueh  a  messmate.  Heaping 
up,  therefore,  an  abundant  portion  ot  tiie  "  provaut"  upon  a 
piece  of  bark  which  served  for  a  (hsh,  they  invited  liim  to  con- 
iine  himself  thereto,  instead  of  foraging  in  the  general  mess. 

He  complied  with  the  most  accommodating  spirit  iimigi- 
nablc;  and  went  on  eating  and  chatting,  and  laughing  and 
smearing  himself,  imtil  his  whole  countenance  shone  with 
grease  and  good-humor.  In  the  course  of  his  repast,  his  at- 
tention was  caught  by  the  figure  of  the  gastronome,  who,  as 
usual,  was  gorging  himself  in  dogged  silence.  A  droll  cut  of 
the  eye  showed  either  that  he  knew  him  of  old,  or  perceived  at 
once  his  char.ncteristics.  He  immediately  made  him  the  butt 
of  his  pleasantries ;  and  cracked  off  two  or  three  good  hits, 
that  caused  the  sluggish  dolt  to  prick  up  his  ears,  and  delighted 
all  the  company.  From  this  time,  the  uninvited  guest  was 
taken  into  favor ;  his  jokes  began  to  be  relished ;  his  careless, 
free  and  easy  air,  to  be  considered  singularly  amusing;  and  in 
the  end,  he  was  pronounced  by  the  travellers  one  of  the  mer- 
riest comj^anions  and  most  entertaining  vagabonds  they  had 
met  with  in  the  wilderness. 

t5upper  being  over,  the  redoubtable  Shee-wee-she-ouaiter,  for 
such  was  the  simple  name  by  which  he  announced  himself,  de- 
clared his  intention  of  keeping  company  with  the  party  for  a 
day  or  two,  if  they  had  no  objection;  and  by  way  of  backing 
liis  self-invitation,  presented  the  carcass  of  the  buck  as  an 
earnest  of  his  hunting  abilities.  By  this  time  he  had  so  com- 
pletely effaced  the  unfavornhle  impression  made  by  his  firet 
appearance,  that  he  was  made  Aveleome  to  the  ramp,  and  the 
Nez  Perce  guide  undertook  to  give  him  lodging  for  the  night. 
The  next  morning,  at  break  of  day  he  borroAved  a  gim,  and 
was  off  among  the  hills,  nor  was  anything  more  seen  of  him 
until  a  few  minutes  after  the  party  had  encamped  for  the 
evenino;,  when  ho  again  made  his  appearance,  in  his  usual 
frank,  careless  manner,  and  threw  down  the  carcass  of  another 
noble  deer,  which  he  had  borne  on  his  back  for  a  considerable 
distance. 

This  evening  he  was  the  life  of  the  party,  and  his  open  com- 
miinicative  disposition,  free  from  all  disguise,  soon  put  them 
in  possession  of  his  history.  He  had  been  a  kind  of  prodigal 
son  in  his  native  village ;  living  a  loose,  heedless  life,  and  dis- 
regarding the  precei>ts  and  imperative  commands  of  the  cliiefs. 


218         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

He  had,  in  consequence,  been  expelled  from  the  village,  but,  in 
nowise  disheartened  at  this  banishment  had  betaken  himself 
to  the  society  of  the  border  Indians,  and  had  led  a  careless, 
liapliazard,  vagabond  life,  perfectly  consonant  to  his  humors; 
heedless  of  the  future,  so  long  as  ho  had  wherewithal  for  the 
present;  and  fearing  no  lack  of  food,  so  long  as  he  had  the  im- 
plements of  the  chase,  and  a  fair  hunting  ground. 

Finding  him  very  expert  as  a  hunter,  and  being  pleased  with 
his  eccentricities  and  his  strange  and  merry  humor.  Captain 
Bonneville  fitted  him  out  handsomely  as  the  Nimrod  of  the 
party,  who  all  soon  became  quite  attached  to  him.  One  of  the 
earliest  and  most  signal  services  he  performed,  was  to  exorcise 
the  insatiate  kill-crop  that  hitherto  oppressed  the  party.  In 
laat,  the  doltish  Nez  Perce,  who  had  seemed  so  perfectly  insen- 
sible to  rough  treatment  of  every  kind,  by  which  the  travellers 
had  endeavored  to  elbow  him  out  of  their  society,  could  not 
withstand  the  good-humored  bantering,  and  occasionally  sharp 
"wit  of  She-wee-she.  He  evidently  quailed  under  his  jokes,  and 
sat  blinki«ng  like  an  owl  in  daylight,  when  pestered  by  the 
flouts  and  peckings  of  mischievous  birds.  At  length  his  place 
was  found  vacant  at  meal-time :  no  one  know  when  he  went 
olf,  or  whither  he  had  gone,  but  he  was  seen  no  more,  and  the 
vast  surplus  that  remained  when  the  repast  was  over,  showed 
what  a  mighty  gormandizer  had  departed.  ' 

Eelieved  from  this  incubus,  the  little  party  now  went  on 
cheerily.  She-wee-she  kept  them  in  fun  as  well  as  food.  His 
hunting  was  always  successfid;  he  was  ever  ready  to  render 
any  assistance  in  the  camp  or  on  the  march ;  while  his  jokes, 
his  antics,  and  the  very  cut  of  his  countenance,  so  full  of 
whim  and  comicality,  kept  every  one  in  good-humor. 

In  this  way  they  journeyed  on  until  they  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  the  Immahah,  and  encamped  near  to  the  Nez  Perce 
lodges.  Here  She-wec-she  took  a  sudden  notion  to  visit  his 
people,  and  show  off  the  state  of  worldly  prosperity  to  which 
he  had  so  suddenly  attained.  He  accordingly  departed  in  thp 
morning,  arrayed  in  hunter's  style,  ana  well  appointed  with 
everything  befitting  his  vocation.  The  buoyancy  of  his  gait, 
the  elasticity  of  his  step,  and  the  hilarity  of  his  countenance, 
showed  that  he  anticipated,  with  chuckling  satisfaction,  the 
surprise  he  was  about  to  give  those  who  had  ejected  him  from 
their  society  in  rags.  But  what  a  change  was  there  in  his 
whole  appearance  when  he  rejoined  the  party  in  the  evening! 
He  came  skulking  into  camp  Hke  a  beaten  cur,  with  his  tail 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         219 

betvvoen  his  legs.  All  his  finery  was  gone;  he  was  naked  as 
when  lie  was  born,  with  the  exception  of  a  scanty  liap  that 
answered  the  purpose  of  a  fig  leaf.  His  fellow-travellers  at 
first  did  not  know  him,  but  supjwsed  it  to  be  some  vagrant 
Root  Digger  sneaking  into  the  camp ;  but  when  they  recognized 
in  this  forlorn  object  their  prime  wag,  She- woe-she,  whom  they 
had  seen  depart  in  the  morning  in  siuh  high  glee  and  high 
feather,  they  coidd  not  contain  their  merriment,  but  hailed  him 
with  loud  and  repeated  peals  of  laughter. 

She-wee-she  was  not  of  a  spirit  to  be  easily  cast  down ;  he 
soon  joined  in  the  merriment  as  heartily  as  any  one,  and 
seemed  to  consider  his  reverse  of  fortune  an  excellent  joke. 
Captain  Bonneville,  however,  thought  proper  to  check  his 
good-humor,  and  demanded,  with  some  degree  of  sternness, 
the  cause  of  his  altered  condition.  He  replied  in  the  most 
natural  and  self-complacent  style  imaginable,  "that  he  had 
been  among  his  cousins,  avIio  wore  very  poor;  they  had  been 
delighted  to  see  him ;  still  more  delighted  with  his  good  for- 
tune; they  had  taken  him  to  their  arms;  admired  his  equip- 
ments; one  had  begged  for  this;  another  for  that" — in  fine, 
what  with  the  poor  devil's  inherent  heedlessness  and  the  real 
generosity  of  his  disposition,  his  needy  cousins  had  succeeded 
in  stri])i)ing  him  of  all  his  clothes  and  accoutrements,  except- 
ing the  fig  leaf  with  which  he  had  retiu-ned  to  camp. 

Seeing  his  total  want  of  care  and  foretliought.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville determined  to  let  him  suffer  a  little,  in  hopes  it  might 
prove  a  salutary  lesson;  and,  at  any  rate,  to  make  him  no  nioro 
presents  wliile  in  the  neighborhood  of  his  needy  cousins.  He 
was  left,  therefore,  to  shift  for  himself  in  his  naked  condition; 
which,  however,  did  not  seem  to  give  him  any  concern,  or  to 
abate  one  jot  of  his  good-humor.  In  the  course  of  his  loung- 
ing about  the  camp,  however,  he  got  possession  of  a  deer-skin; 
whereupon,  cutting  a  slit  in  tlio  middle,  he  thrust  his  head 
through  it,  so  that  the  two  ends  hung  down  bcfoi-e  and 
behind,  something  like  a  South  American  poncho,  or  the 
tabardof  a  herald.  These  ends  he  tied  together,  under  the 
armpits ;  and  thus  arrayed  presented  liimself  once  more  before 
the  captain,  with  an  air  of  perfect  self-satisfaction,  as  though 
he  thought  it  impossible  for  any  fault  to  be  found  with  his 
toilet. 

A  little  further  journeying  brought  the  travellers  to  the  petty 
village  of  Nez  Perrcs,  governed  by  the  worthy  and  affectionate 
old  patriarch  who  had  made  Captain  Bonneville  the  costly 


220         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

present  of  a  very  fine  horse.  The  old  naan  welcomed  them 
once  more  to  his  village  with  his  usual  cordialty,  and  his  re- 
spectable squaw  and  hopeful  son,  cherishing  grateful  recollec- 
tions of  the  hatchet  and  ear-bobs,  joined  in  a  chorus  of  friendly 
gratulation. 

As  the  much- vaunted  steed,  once  the  joy  and  pride  of  this 
interesting  family,  was  now  nearly  knocked  up  by  travelling, 
and  totally  inadequate  to  the  mountain  scramble  that  lay  ahead, 
Captain  Bonneville  restored  him  to  the  venerable  patriarch, 
with  renewed  acknowledgments  for  the  invaluable  gift.  Some- 
what to  his  surpi-ise,  he  was  immediately  supplied  with  a  fine 
two  years'  old  colt  in  his  stead,  a  substitution  which,  he  after- 
ward learned,  according  to  Indian  custom  in  such  cases,  he 
might  have  claimed  as  a  matter  of  right.  We  do  not  find  that 
any  after  claims  were  made  on  account  of  this  colt.  This  dona- 
tion may  be  regarded,  therefore,  as  a  signal  punctilio  of  Indian 
honor ;  but  it  will  be  found  that  the  animal  soon  proved  an  un- 
lucky acquisition  to  the  party. 

While  at  this  village,  the  Nez  Perce  guide  had  held  consulta- 
tions with  some  of  the  inhabitants  as  to  the  mountain  tract  the 
party  were  about  to  traverse.  He  now  began  to  wear  an  anx- 
ious aspect,  and  to  indulge  ua  gloomy  forebodings.  The  snow, 
ho  had  been  told,  lay  to  a  great  depth  in  the  passes  of  the 
mountains,  and  difficulties  would  increase  as  he  proceeded. 
He  begged  Captain  Bonneville,  therefore,  to  travel  very  slowly, 
so  as  to  keep  the  horses  in  strength  and  spirit  for  the  hard 
times  they  would  have  to  encounter.  The  captain  surrendered 
the  regidation  of  the  march  entirely  to  his  discretion,  and 
pushed  on  in  the  advance,  amusing  himself  with  hunting,  so  as 
generally  to  kill  a  deer  or  two  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and 
arriving,  before  the  rest  of  the  party,  at  the  spot  designated 
by  the  guide  for  the  evening's  encampment. 

In  the  meantune,  the  others  plodded  on  at  the  heels  of  the 
giiide,  accompanied  by  that  merry  vagabond.  She-wee-she, 
The  primitive  garb  worn  by  this  droll  left  all  his  nether  man 
exposed  to  the  biting  blasts  of  the  mountains.  Still  his  wit 
was  never  frozen,  nor  his  sunshiny  temper  beclouded ;  and  his 
innumerable  antics  and  practical  jokes,  while  they  quickened 
tlie  circulation  of  his  own  blood,  kept  his  companions  in  high 
good-humor. 

So  passed  the  first  day  after  the  departure  from  the  patri- 
arch's. The  second  day  commenced  in  the  same  manner;  the 
captain  in  the  advance,  the  rest  of  the  party  following  on 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         221 

slowly.  She-wee-sho,  for  the  f^'oater  part  of  the  time,  trudged 
on  foot  over  the  snow,  keeping  himself  warm  by  hard  exercise, 
and  all  kinds  of  crazy  capers.  In  the  height  of  his  fooleiy, 
the  patriarchal  colt,  which,  unbroken  to  the  saddle,  was  suf- 
fered to  follow  on  at  large,  happened  to  come  within  his  reach. 
In  a  moment  he  was  on  his  back,  snapping  his  fingers,  and 
yelping  with  delight.  The  colt,  unused  to  such  a  burden,  and 
half  wild  by  nature,  fell  to  prancing  and  rearuig,  and  snort- 
ing, and  j)lunging,  and  kicking;  and,  at  length,  set  off  full 
speed  over  the  most  dangerous  grtnmd.  As  the  route  led  gen- 
erally along  the  steep  and  craggy  sides  on  the  liills,  both  hoi-se 
and  horseman  were  constantly  in  danger,  and  more  than  once 
had  a  hairbreadth  escape  from  deadly  peril.  Nothing,  how- 
ever, could  daunt  this  madcap  savage.  He  stuck  to  the  colt 
hke  a  plaster,  up  ridges,  down  gullies;  whooping  and  yelling 
with  the  wildest  glee.  Never  did  beggar  on  horseback  display 
more  headlong  horsemanship.  His  companions  followed  liini 
W'ith  their  eyes,  sometimes  laughing,  sometimes  holding  in 
theii'  breath  at  his  va?:aries,  until  they  saw  the  colt  make  a 
sudden  plunge  or  start,  and  pitch  his  unlucky  rider  headlong 
over  a  precipice.  There  was  a  general  cry  of  horror,  and  all 
hastened  to  the  spot.  They  found  the  poor  fellow  lying  among 
the  rocks  below,  sadly  bi'uised  and  mangled.  It  was  almost  a 
miracle  that  he  had  escaped  with  Hfe.  Even  in  this  condition 
his  merry  spirit  was  not  entirely  quelled,  and  he  summoned 
up  a  feeble  laugh  at  the  alarm  and  anxiety  of  those  who  came 
to  his  relief.  He  w^as  extricated  from  his  rocky  bed,  and  a 
messenger  dispatched  to  inform  Ciiptain  Bonneville  of  the 
accident.  The  latter  returned  with  all  speed,  and  encamped 
the  party  at  the  first  convenient  spot.  Here  the  wounded  man 
was  stretched  upon  buffalo  skins,  and  the  captain,  who  offi- 
ciated on  all  occasions  as  doctor  and  surgeon  to  the  party,  pro- 
ceeded to  examine  his  woimds.  The  principal  one  was  a  long 
and  deep  gash  in  the  thigh,  which  reached  to  the  bone.  Call- 
ing for  a  needle  and  thread,  the  captain  now  prepared  to  sew 
up  the  wound,  admonishing  the  patient  to  submit  to  the  oper- 
ation with  becoming  fortitude.  His  gayety  was  at  an  end;  he 
could  no  longer  summon  up  even  a  forced  smile;  and,  at  the 
first  puncture  of  the  needle  flinched  so  piteously  that  the  cap- 
tain was  obliged  to  pause,  and  to  order  him  a  powerful  dose  of 
alcohol.  This  somewhat  rallied  up  his  spirit  and  warmed  his 
heai't;  all  the  time  of  the  operation,  however,  he  kept  his  eyes 
riveted  on  the  wound,  with  his  teeth  set,  and  a  whimsical 


222         ADVENTUEES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

wincing  ot  the  countenance  that  occasionally  gave  his  nose 
something  of  its  usual  comic  curl. 

\\  hen  the  wound  was  fairl}'  closed,  the  captain  washed  it 
■with  rum,  and  administered  a  second  dose  of  the  same  to  the 
patient,  who  was  tucked  in  for  the  night,  and  advised  to  com- 
pose himself  to  sleep.  He  was  restless  and  uneasy,  however ; 
repeatedly  expressing  his  fears  that  his  leg  would  be  so  much 
swollen  the  next  day  as  to  prevent  his  proceeding  with  the 
party;  nor  could  he  be  quieted  until  the  captain  gave  a  de- 
cided opinion  favorable  to  his  wishes. 

Early  the  next  morning,  a  gleam  of  his  merry  humor  re- 
turned, on  finding  that  his  wounded  limb  retained  its  natural 
proportions.  On  attempting  to  use  it,  however,  he  found  him- 
self unable  to  stand.  He  made  several  efforts  to  coax  liimself 
into  a  belief  that  he  might  still  continue  forward;  but  at 
length  shook  his  head  despondingly,  and  said  that  "  as  he  had 
but  one  leg,"  it  was  all  in  vain  to  attempt  a  passage  of  the 
mountain. 

Every  one  grieved  to  part  with  so  boon  a  companion,  and 
under  such  disastrous  circumstances.  He  was  once  moi'e 
clothed  and  equipped,  each  one  making  him  some  parting  pres- 
ent. He  was  then  helped  on  a  horse,  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville presented  to  him;  and  after  many  parting  expressions 
of  good-will  on  both  sides,  set  off  on  his  return  to  his  old 
haunts ;  doubtless  to  be  once  more  plucked  by  his  affectionate 
but  needy  cousins. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI, 

THE    DIFFICULT    MOITNTAIN— A  SMOKE    AND    CONSULTATION — THE 

captain's  speech — AN    ICY  TURNPIKE— DANGER    OP    A    FALSE 

STEP — ARRIVAL     ON     SNAKE  RIVER — RETURN     TO     PORTNEUF — 
MEETING  OF  COMRADES. 

Continuing  their  journey  up  the  course  of  the  Immahah, 
the  ti-avellers  found,  as  they  approached  the  head-waters,  the 
snow  increased  in  quantity,  so  as  to  lie  two  feet  deep.  They 
were  again  obliged,  therefore,  to  beat  down  a  path  for  their 
horses,  sometimes  travelling  on  the  icy  surface  of  the  stream. 
At  length  they  reached  the  place  where  they  intended  to  scale 
the  mountains;  and,  having  broken  a  pathway  to  the  foot, 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         223 

were  af^i'ocably  surprised  to  find  that  the  wind  had  drifted  the 
snow  from  off  the  side,  so  that  they  attained  the  suniniit  with 
but  Httlc  difficulty.  Here  they  encami)ed,  with  the  intention 
of  beating  a  track  through  the  mountains.  A  short  experi- 
ment, however,  obhged  them  to  give  up  the  attempt,  the  snow 
lying  in  vast  drifts,  often  higher  than  the  horses'  heads. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  took  the  two  Indian  guides,  and  set 
out  to  reconnoitre  the  neighborhood.  Observing  a  high  peak 
which  overtopped  the  rest,  he  climbed  it,  and  discovered  from 
the  summit  a  pass  about  nine  miles  long,  but  so  heavily  piled 
with  snow  that  it  seejiied  impracticable.  He  now  lit  a  pipe, 
and,  sitting  down  with  the  two  guides,  proceeded  to  hold  a 
consultation  after  the  Indian  mode.  For  a  long  while  they  all 
smoked  vigorously  and  in  silence,  pondering  over  the  subject 
matter  beiore  them.  At  length  a  discussion  commenced,  and 
the  opinion  in  which  the  two  guides  concurred  was,  that  the 
horses  could  not  possibly  cross  the  snows.  They  advised, 
therefore,  that  the  jiarty  should  proceed  on  foot,  and  they 
should  take  the  horses  back  to  the  village,  where  they  would 
be  well  taken  care  of  until  Captain  Bonneville  shoidd  send  for 
them.  They  urged  this  advice  with  great  earnestness ;  declar- 
ing that  their  chief  would  be  extremely  angry,  and  treat  them 
severely  should  any  of  the  horses  of  his  good  friends,  the 
white  men,  be  lost  in  crossing  under  their  guidance ;  and  that, 
therefore,  it  was  good  they  should  not  attempt  it. 

Captain  Bonneville  sat  smoking  his  pipe,  and  listening  to 
them  with  Indian  silence  and  gra\'ity.  When  they  had  fin- 
ished, he  replied  to  them  in  their  own  style  of  language. 

"  My  friends,"  said  he,  "I  have  seen  the  pass,  and  have  list- 
ened to  your  words ;  you  have  little  hearts.  When  troubles 
and  dangers  lie  in  your  way,  you  turn  your  backs.  That  is 
not  the  way  with  my  nation.  When  great  obstacles  present, 
and  threaten  to  keep  them  back,  their  hearts  swell,  rmd  they 
push  forward.  They  love  to  conquer  difficulties.  B;it  enough 
for  the  present.  Night  is  coming  on;  let  us  return  to  our 
camp. " 

He  moved  on,  and  they  followed  in  silence.  On  reaching  the 
camp,  he  found  the  men  extremely  discouraged.  One  of  their 
number  had  been  surveying  the  neighborhood,  and  seriously 
assured  them  that  the  snow  was  at  least  a  hundred  feet  deep. 
The  captain  cheered  them  up,  and  diffused  fresh  spirit  in  them 
by  his  example.  Still  lie  was  much  perplexed  how  to  proceed. 
About  dark  there  was  a  slight  drizzling  rain.    An  expedient 


224         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

now  suggested  itself.  This  was  to  make  two  light  sleds,  place 
tlie  packs  on  them,  and  di-ag  them  to  the  other  side  of  the 
iiiountaiu,  thus  forming  a  road  in  the  wet  snow,  which,  should 
it  afterward  freeze,  would  be  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  tho 
horses.  This  plan  was  promptly  put  into  execution ;  the  sleds 
were  constructed,  the  heavy  baggage  was  drawn  backward 
and  forward  until  the  road  was  beaten,  when  they  desisted 
from  their  fatiguing  labor.  The  night  turned  out  clear  and 
cold,  and  by  morning  their  road  Avas  incrusted  with  ice  suffi- 
ciently strong  for  their  purpose.  They  now  set  out  on  their 
icy  turnpike,  and  got  on  well  enough,  excepting  that  now  and 
thtn  a  horse  would  shde  out  of  the  track,  and  immediately 
sink  up  to  the  neck.  Then  came  on  toil  and  difficulty,  and 
they  Avould  be  obliged  to  haul  up  the  floundering  animal  with 
ropes.  One,  more  unlucky  than  the  rest,  after  repeated  falls, 
had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  snow.  NotAvithstanding  these  re- 
peated delays,  they  succeeded,  before  the  sun  had  acquired 
sufficient  power  to  thaw  the  snow,  in  getting  all  the  rest  of 
their  horses  safely  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain. 

Their  difficulties  and  dangers,  however,  were  not  yet  at  an 
end.  They  had  now  to  descend,  and  the  whole  surface  of  the 
snow  was  glazed  with  ice.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to 
wait  until  the  warmth  of  the  sun  should  melt  the  glassy  crust 
of  sleet,  and  give  them  a  foothold  to  the  yielding  snow.  They 
had  a  frightful  warning  of  the  danger  of  any  movement  while 
the  sieet  remained.  A  wild  young  mare,  in  her  restlessness, 
strayed  to  the  edge  of  a  declivity.  One  slip  was  fatal  to  her; 
she  lost  her  balance,  -  careered  "\\4th  headlong  velocity  down 
the  slippery  side  of  the  mountain  for  more  than  two  thousand 
feet,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  at  the  bottom.  When  the  trav- 
ellers afterward  sought  the  carcass  to  cut  it  up  for  food,  they 
found  it  torn  and  mangled  in  the  most  horrible  manner. 

It  was  quite  late  in  the  evening  before  the  party  descended 
to  the  ultimate  skirts  of  the  snow.  Here  they  planted  large 
logs  below  them  to  prevent  their  sliding  down,  and  encamped 
for  the  night.  The  next  day  they  succeeded  in  bringing  down 
their  baggage  to  the  encampment;  then  packing  all  up  regu- 
larly and  loading  their  horses,  they  once  more  set  out  briskly 
and  cheerfully,  and  in  the  course  of  the  following  day  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  to  a  grassy  region. 

Here  their  Nez  Perce  guides  declared  that  all  the  difficulties 
of  the  mountains  were  at  an  end,  and  their  course  was  plain 
and  simple,  and  needed  no  further  guidance;  they  asked  leave, 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLP:.         225 

therefore,  to  return  home.  This  was  readily  granted,  >vif,h 
many  thanks  and  presents  for  their  faithful  services.  Tlioy 
took  a  long  farewell  smoke  with  their  white  friends,  after 
which  they  mounted  their  horses  and  set  off,  exchanging 
many  farewells  and  Icind  wiijhes. 

On  the  following  day,  Captain  Bonneville  completed  liis 
journey  down  the  mountain,  and  encamped  on  the  bordcre 
of  Snake  River,  where  he  found  the  grass  in  great  abundance 
and  eight  inches  in  height.  In  this  neighborhood  he  saw  on 
the  rocky  banks  of  the  river  several  prismoids  of  basaltes,  ris- 
ing to  the  height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet. 

Nothing  particularly  worthy  of  note  occurred  during  several 
days  as  the  party  proceeded  up  along  Snake  River  and  across 
its  tributary  streams.  After  crossing  Gun  Greek,  they  met 
with  various  signs  that  white  people  were  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  Captain  Bonneville  made  earnest  exertions  to  dis- 
cover whether  they  were  any  of  his  own  people,  that  he  might 
join  them.  He  soon  ascertained  that  they  had  been  starved 
out  of  this  tract  of  country,  and  had  betaken  themselves  to  the 
buffalo  region,  whither  he  now  shaped  his  course.  In  proceed- 
ing along  Pnake  River,  he  found  smaU  hordes  of  Shoshonies 
lingering  upon  the  minor  streams,  and  living  u|»on  ti'out  and 
other  fish,  which  they  catch  in  great  numbers  at  this  season  in 
fish- traps.  The  greater  part  of  the  tribe,  however,  had  pene- 
trated the  mountains  to  hunt  the  elk,  deer,  and  ahsahta  or 
bighorn. 

On  the  12th  of  May  Captain  Bonneville  reached  the  Portneuf 
River,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  he  had  left  the  winter  encamp- 
ment of  his  company  on  the  i)receding  Christmas  day.  He 
had  then  expected  to  be  back  by  the  beginning  of  March,  but 
circumstances  had  detained  him  upward  of  two  months  be- 
yond the  time,  and  the  winter  encampment  must  long  ere  this 
have  been  broken  up.  Halting  on  the  banks  of  the  Portneuf, 
he  dispatched  scouts  a  few  miles  above,  to  visit  the  old  camp- 
ing ground  and  search  for  signals  of  the  party,  or  of  their 
wliereabouts,  should  they  actually  have  abandoned  the  spot. 
They  returned  without  being  able  to  ascertain  anything. 

Being  now  destitute  of  provisions,  the  travellers  found  it 
necessary  to  make  a  short  hunting  excursion  after  buffalo. 
They  made  caches,  therefore,  in  an  island  in  the  river,  in 
which  thej^  deposited  all  their  baggage,  and  then  set  out  on 
their  expedition.  They  were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill  a  couple 
of  fine  bulls,  and  cutting  \\ '  the  carcasses,  determined  to  hus- 


226         '1-^  VENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

band  this  stock  of  provisions  with  the  most  miserly  care,  lest 
they  should  again  be  obliged  to  venture  into  the  open  and 
diingorous  hunting  grounds.  Returning  to  their  island  on  the 
18th  of  May,  they  found  that  the  wolves  had  been  at  the 
caches,  scratched  up  the  contents,  and  scattered  them  in  every 
direction.  They  now  consti-ucted  a  more  secure  one,  in  which 
they  depo5:itcd  their  heaviest  articles,  and  then  descended 
Snake  River  again,  and  encamped  just  above  the  American 
Falls.  Here  they  proceeded  to  fortify  themselves,  intending 
to  remain  here,  and  give  their  horses  an  opportunity  to  recruit 
their  strength  with  good  pasturage,  until  it  should  be  time  to 
set  out  for  the  annual  rendezvous  in  Bear  River  valley. 

On  the  first  of  June  they  descried  four  men  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  opposite  to  the  camp,  and,  having  attracted  their 
attention  by  a  discharge  of  rifles,  ascertained  to  their  joy  that 
they  were  some  of  their  own  people.  From  these  men  Captain 
Boimeville  learned  that  the  whole  party  which  he  had  left  in 
the  preceding  month  of  December  were  encamped  on  Blackfoot 
River,  a  tributary  of  Snake  River,  not  very  far  above  the  Port- 
neuf.  Thitlier  he  proceeded  with  all  possible  dispatch,  and  m 
a  little  while  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  himself  once  more 
surrounded  by  his  people,  who  greeted  his  return  among  them 
in  the  heartiest  manner;  for  his  long-protracted  absence  had 
convinced  them  that  he  and  his  three  companions  had  been  cut 
off  by  some  hostile  tribe. 

The  party  had  suffered  much  during  his  absence.  They  had 
been  pinched  by  famine  and  almost  starved,  and  had  been 
forced  to  repair  to  the  caches  at  Salmon  River.  Here  they  feU 
in  with  the  Blackfeet  bands,  and  considered  themselves  fortu- 
nate in  being  able  to  retreat  from  the  dangerous  neighborhood 
without  sustaining  any  loss. 

.  Bemg  thus  reunited,  a  general  treat  from  Captain  Bonneville 
to  his  men  was  a  matter  of  course.  Two  days,  therefore,  were 
'  given  up  to  such  feasting  and  merriment  as  their  means  and 
situation  afforded.  What  was  wanting  in  good  cheer  was  made 
up  in  good- will;  the  free  trappers  in  particular  distingxiished 
themselves  on  the  occasion,  and  the  saturnalia  was  enjoyed 
with  a  hearty  holiday  sph-it,  that  smacked  of  the  game  flavor 
of  the  wilderness. 


ADVEBTURKS  OF  CAr'l'AIi\  BO^ SEVILLE.         227 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  RENDEZVOUS — A  WAR  PARTY  OP  BLACKFEET 
—A  MOCK  BUSTLE— SHAM  FIRES  AT  NIGHT— WARLIKE  PRECAU- 
TIONS—DANGERS OF  A  NIGHT  ATTACK  -  A  PANIC  AMONG  HORSES 
—CAUTIOUS  MARCH— THE  BEER  SPRINGS—A  MOCK  CAROUSAL- 
SKIRMISHING  WITH  BUFFALOES— A  BUFFALO  BAIT— ARRIVAL  AT 
THE  RENDEZVOUS— MEETING  OF  VARIOUS  BANDS. 

After  the  two  days  of  festivo  indulgence,  Captain  Bonneville 
broke  ujd  the  encampment,  and  set  out  with  his  motley  crew  of 
hired  and  free  trappers,  half-breeds,  Indians,  and  squaws,  for 
the  main  rendezvous  in  Bear  River  valley.  Directing  his 
course  up  the  Tlackfoot  River,  he  soon  reached  the  hills  among 
which  it  takes  its  rise.  Here,  while  on  the  march,  he  descried 
from  the  brow  of  a  lull,  a  war  party  of  about  sixty  Blackfeet, 
on  the  plain  immediately  beiow  him.  His  situation  was  Jicril- 
ous;  for  the  greater  part  of  his  people  were  dispersed  in  various 
directions.  Still,  to  betray  hesitation  or  fear  would  be  to  dis- 
cover his  actual  weakness,  and  to  invite  attack.  He  assumed 
instantly,  therefore,  a  belligerent  tone ;  ordered  the  squaws  to 
lead  the  horses  to  a  small  grove  of  ashen  trees,  and  unload  and 
tie  them ;  and  caused  a  gi'eat  bustle  to  be  made  by  his  scanty 
handful;  the  leaders  riding  hither  and  thither  and  vociferating 
with  all  their  might,  as  if  a  numerous  force  were  getting  under 
way  for  an  attack. 

To  keep  up  the  deception  as  to  his  force,  he  ordered,  at  night, 
J  number  of  extra  fires  to  be  made  in  his  camp,  and  kept  up  a 
vigilant  watch.  His  men  were  all  directed  to  keep  themselves 
prepared  for  instant  action.  In  such  cases  the  experienced 
trapper  sleeps  in  his  clothes,  with  his  rifle  beside  him,  the  shot- 
belt  and  powder-flask  on  tlie  stock;  so  that,  in  case  of  alarm, 
he  can  lay  his  hand  upon  the  whole  of  his  equipment  at  once, 
and  start  up.  comjilotcly  armed. 

Captain  Bonneville  was  also  especially  careful  to  seciu'c  the 
horses,  and  set  a  vigilant  guard  ui)on  them;  for  there  lies  the. 
great  object  and  principal  danger  of  a  night  attack.  The  grand 
move  of  the  lurking  savnge  is  to  cause  a  panic  among  the 
horses.     In  such  cases  one  horse  I'riglitens  another,  imtil  all  aix) 


228         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

alarmed,  and  struggle  to  break  loose.  In  camps  where  there 
are  great  numbers  of  Indians,  with  their  horses,  a  night  alarm 
of  the  kind  is  tremendous.  The  running  of  the  horses  that 
have  broken  loose;  the  snorting,  stamping,  and  rearing  of 
those  which  remain  fast ;  the  howling  of  dogs ;  the  yelling  of 
Indians;  the  scampering  of  white  men,  and  red  men,  with 
their  guns;  the  overturning  of  lodges  and  tramphng  of  fires  by 
the  horses :  the  flashes  of  the  fires,  lighting  up  forms  of  men; 
and  steeds  dashing  through  the  gloom,  altogether  make  up  one 
of  the  wildest  scenes  of  confusion  imaginable. 

In  this  way,  sometimes,  aU  the  horses  of  a  camp  amounting 
to  several  hundred  will  be  frightened  off  in  a  single  night. 

The  night  passed  off  without  any  disturbance;  but  there  was 
no  likelihood  that  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet,  once  on  the  track 
of  a  camp  where  there  was  a  chance  for  spoils,  would  fail  to 
hover  round  it.  The  captain,  therefore,  continued  to  maintain 
the  most  vigilant  precautions;  throwing  out  scouts  in  the 
advance,  and  on  every  rising  ground. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  he  arrived  at  the  plain  of  white  clay, 
already  mentioned,  surrounded  by  the  mineral  springs,  called 
Beer' Springs,  by  the  trappers.*  Here  the  men  all  halted  to 
have  a  regale.  In  a  few  moments  every  spring  had  its  jovial 
knot  of  hard  drinkers,  with  tin  cup  in  hand,  indulging  in  a 
mock  carouse;  quaffing,  pledging,  toasting,  bandying  jokes, 
singing  drinking  songs  and  uttering  peals  of  laughter,  until  it 
seemed  as  if  their  imaginations  had  given  potency  to  the  bev- 
erage, and  cheated  them  into  a  fit  of  intoxication.  Indeed,  in 
the  excitement  of  the  moment  they  w^ere  loud  and  extravagant 
in  their  commendations  of  "the  mountain  tap;"  elevating  it 
above  every  beverage  produced  from  hops  or  malt.  It  was  a 
singular  and  fantastic  scene ;  suited  to  a  region  Avhere  every- 
thing is  strange  and  peculiar.  Those  groups  of  trappers  and 
hunters,  and  Indians,  with  their  wild  costumes  and  wilder 
countenances ;  their  boisterous  gayety  and  reckless  air ;  quaff- 

*  In  a  manuscript  journal  of  Mr.  Nathaniel  G.  Wyeth,  we  find  the  following  men- 
tirm  of  this  \vatering;-place: 

"  Tliere  is  here  a  soda  spring;  or,  I  may  say.  fifty  of  them.  These  springs  throw 
out  lime,  which  deposits  and  forms  little  hillocks  of  a  yellowish-colored  stone. 
There  is,  also,  here,  a  warm  spring,  which  tlirows  out  water,  with  a  Jet;  which  is 
like  bilge-water  in  taste.  There  are,  al.so.  here,  peat  beds,  which  sometimes  take 
fire,  and  leave,  behind  a  deep,  light  ashes;  in  which  animals  sink  deep.  .  .  .  I  as- 
cended a  mountain,  and  from  it  could  see  that  Bear  River  took  a  short  turn 
round  Sheep  Rock.  There  were,  in  tne  pl.nln,  many  hundred  mounds  of  yellowish 
Stone,  with  a  crater  on  the  top,  formed  of  the  deposits  of  the  impregnated  water." 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         229 

ing  and  making  merry  round  these  sparkling  fountains;  while 
beside  them  lay  their  weapons,  ready  to  be  sn?tched  up  for  in- 
stant service.  Painters  are  fond  of  representing  banditti  at 
their  rude  and  picturesque  carousals;  but  here  were  gi'oups 
still  more  rude  and  picturesque ;  and  it  needed  but  a  sudden 
onset  of  Blackfeet,  and  a  quick  transition  from  a  fantastic  revel 
to  a  furious  melee,  to  have  rendered  this  picture  of  a  trapper's 
life  complete. 

The  beer  frolic,  however,  passed  off  without  any  tmtoward 
circumstance;  and,  unlike  most  drinkmg  bouts,  left  neither 
headache  nor  heartache  behind.  Captain  Bonneville  now 
directed  his  course  up  along  Bear  River;  amusing  himself  oc- 
casionally with  himting  the  buffalo  with  wbich  the  country 
was  covered.  Sometimes  when  he  saw  a  huge  ball  taking  his 
repose  in  a  prairie,  he  would  steal  along  a  ravine,  until  close 
upon  him;  then  rouse  him  from  his  meditations  Avith  a  pebble, 
and  take  a  shot  at  him  as  he  started  up.  Such  is  the  quick- 
ness with  which  this  animal  springs  upon  his  legs,  that  it  is 
not  easy  to  discover  the  muscular  process  hy  which  it  is 
effected.  The  horse  rises  first  upon  his  forelegs,  and  the 
domestic  cow  upon  her  hinder  limbs,  but  the  buffalo  bounds 
at  once  from  a  couchant  to  an  erect  position  with  a  celerity 
that  baffles  the  eye.  Though  from  his  bulk  and  rolling  gait 
he  does  not  appear  to  nm  with  much  swiftness ;  yet  it  takes  a 
stanch  hoi'se  to  overtake  him,  when  at  fidl  speed  on  level 
ground;  and  a  "buffalo  cow  is  still  fleeter  in  her  motion. 

Among  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  party  were  several 
admirable  horsemen  and  bold  himters,  who  amused  them- 
selves with  a  grotesque  kind  of  buffalo  bait.  Whenever  they 
foimd  a  huge  bull  in  the  plains,  they  prepared  for  their  teas- 
ing and  barbaroiis  sport.  Surrounding  him  on  horseback, 
they  would  discharge  their  arrows  at  him  in  quick  succession, 
goading  him  to  make  an  attack;  which,  with  a  dexterous 
movt^ment  of  the  horse,  they  would  easily  avoid.  In  this  way 
they  hovered  round  him,  feathering  him  with  arrows,  as  ho 
reared  and  plunged  about,  until  he  was  bristled  aU  over  like  a 
porcupine.  When  they  perceived  in  him  signs  of  exhaustion, 
and  he  coxdd  no  longer  be  provolced  to  make  battle,  they  would 
dismoimt  from  their  horses,  approach  him  in  the  rear,  and 
seizing  him  by  the  tail,  jerk  him  from  side  to  side,  and  drag 
him  backward;  until  the  frantic  animal,  gathei'ing  fresh 
strength  from  fury,  would  break  from  them,  and  rush,  with 
flashing  eyes  and  a  hoarse  bellowing,  upon  any  enemy  in 


230         ADVENTUimS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

sight;  l)ut  in  n  little  while,  his  transient  excitement  at  an  end, 
Av^ould  pitch  headlong  on  the  ground  and  expire.  The  arrows 
were  then  plucked  forth,  the  tongue  cut  out  and  preserved  as 
a  dainty,  and  the  eai'cass  left  a  banquet  for  the  wolves. 

Pursuing  his  course  up  Bear  River,  Captain  Bonneville  ar- 
rived, on  the  13th  of  June,  at  the  Little  Snake  Lake;  where  he 
encamped  for  four  or  five  days,  that  he  might  examine  its 
shores  and  outlets.  The  latter  he  found  extremely  muddy, 
.and  so  surrovuided  by  swamps  and  quagmires  that  he  was 
obliged  to  construct  canoes  of  rushes  with  which  to  explore 
them.  The  mouths  of  all  the  streams  Avhich  fall  into  this  lake 
from  the  west  are  marshy  and  inconsiderable ;  but  on  the  east 
side-  there  is  a  beautiful  beach,  broken  occasionally  by  high 
and  isolated  bluffs,  which  advance  upon  the  lake,  and  heighten 
the  character  of  the  scenery.  The  water  is  very  shallovv,  but 
abounds  with  trout,  and  other  small  fish. 

Having  finislied  his  survey  of  the  lake.  Captain  Bonneville 
proceeded  on  his  journey,  imtil  on  the  banks  of  the  Bear  River, 
some  distance  higher  up,  he  come  upon  the  pai'ty  wdiich  he 
had  detached  a  year  before,  to  circumambulate  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  and  ascertain  its  extent,  and  the  nature  of  its  shores. 
They  had  been  encamped  here  about  twenty  days ;  and  w^ere 
greatly  rejoiced  at  meeting  once  more  with  their  comrades 
from  wdiom  they  had  so  long  been  separated.  The  first  in- 
quiry of  Captain  Bonneville  was  about  the  result  of  their 
journey,  and  the  information  they  had  procured  as  to  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  the  object  of  his  intense  curiosity  and  am- 
bition. The  substance  of  their  report  will  be  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing chajDter, 


ADVEy TURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  DONNTJVILLE.         031 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

PLAN  OF  THE  SALT  LAKE  EXPEDITION— GREAT  SANDY  DESERTS — 
SUFFERINGS  FROM  THIRST— OGDEN'S  RIVER— TRAILS  AND  SMOKE 
OF  LURKING  SAVAGES— THEFTS  AT  NIGHT— A  TRAPPERS  RE- 
VENGE—ALARMS OF  A  GUILTY  CONSCIENCE — A  MURDEROUS 
VICTORY— CALIFORNIAN  MOUNTAINS— PLAINS  ALONG  THE  PACI- 
FIC— ARRIVAL  AT  MONTEREY— ACCOUNT  OP  THE  PLACE  AND 
NEIGHBORHOOD— LOWER  CALIFORNIA — ITS  EXTENT — THE  PEN- 
INSULA—  SOIL  —  CLIMATE  —  PliODUCTION  —  ITS  SETTLEMENT  BY 
THE  JESUITS— THEIR  SWAY  OVER  THE  INDIANS— THEIR  EX- 
PULSION—  RUINS  OF  A  MISSIONARY  ESTABLISHMENT  —  SUBLIME 
SCENERY — UPPER  CALIFORNIA— MISSIONS— THEIR  POWER  AND 
POLICY— RESOURCES  OF  THE  COUNTRY— DESIGNS  OF  FOREIGN 
NATIONS. 

It  was  on  the  24th  of  July,  in  the  preoedinj?  year  (1833),  that 
the  brigade  of  forty  men  set  out  from  Green  River  valley,  to 
explore  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  They  were  to  make  the  complete 
circuit  of  it,  trapping  on  all  the  streams  which  should  ii\\l  in 
their  way,  and  to  keep  journals  and  make  charts,  calculated 
to  impart  a  knowledge  of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. All  the  resources  of  Captain  Bonneville  had  been  tasked 
to  fit  out  this  farorite  expedition.  The  country  lying  to  the 
southwest  of  the  mountains,  and  ranging  down  to  California, 
was  as  yet  almost  unknown ;  being  out  of  the  buffalo  range,  it 
was  un traversed  by  the  trapper,  who  preferred  those  parts  of 
the  wildei-ness  where  the  roaming  hei'ds  ol"  that  species  of  ani- 
mal gave  hiin  comparatively  an  abundant  and  luxurious  life. 
Still  it  was  said  that  the  deer,  the  elk,  and  the  bighorn  were  to 
be  found  there,  so  that  with  a  little  diligence  and  econom}', 
there  was  no  danger  of  lacking  food.  As  a  precaution,  how- 
ever, the  party  halted  on  Bear  River  and  hunted  for  a  few 
days,  until  they  had  laid  in  a  supply  of  dried  buffalo  meat  and 
venison;  they  then  passed  by  the  head- waters  of  the  Cassie 
River,  and  soon  found  themselves  launched  on  an  immense 
sandy  desert.  Southwardly,  on  their  left,  they  beheld  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  spread  out  like  a  sea,  but  they  found  no 
stream  running  into  it.     A  desert  extended  around  them,  and 


232         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

stretched  to  the  southwest  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  rival- 
hng  the  deserts  of  Asia  and  Africa  in  sterihty.  There  was 
neither  tree,  nor  herbage,  nor  spring,  nor  pool,  nor  running 
stream — nothing  but  parched  wastes  of  sand,  where  horse  and 
rider  were  in  danger  of  perishing. 

Their  sufferings,  at  length,  became  so  great  that  they  aban- 
doned their  intended  course,  and  made  toward  a  range  of 
snowy  mountains  brightening  in  the  north,  where  they  hoped 
to  find  water.  After  a  time,  they  came  upon  a  small  stream 
leading  directly  toward  these  mountains.  Having  quenched 
their  burning  thirst,  and  refreshed  themselves  and  their  weary 
hoi-ses  for  a  time,  they  kept  along  this  stream,  which  grad- 
ually increased  in  size,  being  fed  by  numerous  brooks.  After 
approaching  the  mountains,  it  took  a  sweep  toward  the  south- 
west, and  the  travellers  still  kept  along  it,  trapping  beaver  as 
they  went,  on  the  flesh  of  which  they  subsisted  for  the  present, 
husbanding  their  dried  meat  for  future  necessities. 

The  stream  on  which  they  had  thus  fallen  is  called  by 
some,  Mary  Eiver,  but  is  more  generally  known  as  Ogdon's 
River,  from  Mr.  Peter  Ogden,  an  enterprising  and  intrepid 
leader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  who  first  explored  it. 
The  wild  and  half  desert  region  through  which  the  travel- 
lers were  passing  is  wandered  over  hj  hordes  of  Shoshokoes, 
or  Root  Diggers,  the  forlorn  branch  of  the  Snake  tribe.  Tliey 
are  a  shy  people,  prone  to  keep  aloof  from  the  stranger.  The 
travellers  frequently  met  with  their  trails  and  saw  the  smoke 
of  their  fires  rising  in  various  parts  of  the  vast  landscape, 
so  that  they  knew  there  were  gi-eat  numbers  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, but  scarcely  ever  were  any  of  them  to  be  met  with. 

After  a  time,  they  began  to  have  vexatious  proofs  that,  if 
the  Shoshokoes  were  quiet  by  day,  they  were  busy  at  night. 
The  camp  was  dogged  by  these  eavesdroppers ;  scarce  a  morn- 
ing but  various  ai-ticles  were  missing,  yet  nothing  could  be 
seen  of  the  marauders.  What  particularly  exasperated  the 
hunters,  was  to  have  their  traps  stolen  from  the  streams. 
One  morning  a  trapper  of  a  violent  and  savage  character, 
discovering  that  his  traps  had  been  carried  off  in  the  night, 
took  a  horrid  oath  to  kill  the  first  Indian  he  should  meet, 
innocent  or  guilty.  As  he  was  returning  with  his  comrades 
to  camp,  he  beheld  two  unfortunate  Diggers,  seated  on  the 
river  bank,  fishing.  Advancing  uponthem,  he  levelled  his  rifle, 
shot  one  upon  the  spot,  and  flung  his  bleeding  body  into  the 
stream.    The  other  Indian  fled,  and  was  suffered  to  escape. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         233 

Such  is  the  indiffcrenco  with  which  acts  of  violence  are  re- 
garded in  the  wilderness,  and  sucli  the  immunity  an  anned 
ruffian  enjoys  beyond  the  barriers  of  the  laws,  that  the  only 
punishment  this  desperado  met  with,  was  a  rebuke  from 
the  leader  of  the  party. 

The  trappers  now  left  the  scene  of  this  infamous  tragedy,  and 
kept  on  westward  down  the  course  of  the  river,  which  Avound 
.along  with  a  range  of  mountains  on  the  right  hand  and  a  sandy 
but  somewhat  fertile  plain  on  the  left.  As  they  proceeded, 
they  beheld  columns  of  smoke  rising,  as  before,  in  various  di- 
rections, which  their  guilty  consciences  now  converted  into 
alann  signals,  to  arouse  the  country  and  collect  the  scattered 
bands  for  vengeance. 

After  a  time  the  natives  began  to  make  their  appearance, 
and  sometimes  in  considerable  numbers,  but  always  pacific; 
the  trappers,  however,  suspected  them  of  deep-laid  plans  to 
di'aw  them  into  ambuscades;  to  crowd  into  and  get  possession 
of  their  camp,  and  various  other  crafty  and  daring  conspiracies 
which,  it  is  probable,  never  entered  into  the  heads  of  the  poor 
savages.  In  fact,  they  are  a  simple,  timid,  inoffenGive  race, 
unpractised  in  warfare,  and  scarce  provided  with  any  weapons, 
excepting  for  the  chase.  Their  lives  are  passed  in  the  great 
sand  ])lains  and  along  the  adjacent  rivers ;  they  subsist  some- 
times on  fish,  at  other  times  on  roots  and  the  seeds  of  a  plant 
called  the  cat's-tail.  They  are  of  the  same  kind  of  people  that 
Captain  Bonnovillo  found  upon  Snake  River,  and  whom  he 
found  so  mild  and  inoffensive. 

The  trappers,  however,  had  persuaded  themselves  that  they 
were  making  their  w^ay  through  a  hostile  country,  and  that 
implacable  foes  hung  round  their  camp  or  beset  their  path, 
w'atching  for  an  opportunity  to  surprise  them.  At  length  one 
day  they  came  to  the  banks  of  a  stream  emptying  into  Ogden's 
Eiver,  which  they  were  obliged  to  ford.  Here  a  great  number 
of  Shoshokoes  were  posted  on  the  opposite  bank.  Persuaded 
they  were  there  with  hostile  intent,  they  advanced  upon  them, 
levelled  their  rifles,  and  killed  twenty-five  of  them  on  the  spot. 
The  rest  fled  to  a  short  distance,  then  halted  and  turned  about 
howling  and  whining  hke  wolves,  and  uttering  the  most  pite- 
ous wailings.  The  trappers  chased  them  in  every  direction; 
the  poor  wretches  made  no  defence,  but  fled  with  terror; 
neither  does  it  appear  from  the  accounts  of  the  boasted  victors, 
that  a  woa]ion  had  been  wielded  or  a  weapon  launrhfYl  by  the 
Indians  throughout  the  allair.    We  feel  perfectly  convinced 


234        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

that  the  poor  savages  had  no  hostile  intention,  but  had  merely 
gathered  together  through  motives  of  curiosity,  as  others  c.^ 
their  tribe  had  done  when  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  compan- 
ions passed  along  Snake  Rivoi*. 

The  trappers  continued  down  Ogden's  River,  until  they  as- 
certained that  it  lost  itself  in  a  great  swampy  lake,  to  which 
there  was  no  apparent  discharge.  They  then  struck  directly 
westward,  across  the  great  chain  of  Calif ornian  mountains  ir.- 
terv^ening  between  these  interior  plains  and  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific. 

For  three  and  twenty  days  they  were  entangled  among  these 
mountains,  the  peaks  and  ridges  of  which  are  in  many  places 
covered  with  perpetual  snow.  Their  passes  and  defiles  present 
the  wildest  scenery,  partaking  of  the  sublime  rather  than  the 
beautiful,  and  abounding  with  frightful  precipices.  The  suffer- 
ings of  the  travellers  among  these  savage  mountains  were  ex- 
treme; for  a  part  of  the  time  they  were  nearly  starved;  at 
length  they  made  their  way  through  them,  and  came  down 
upon  the  j^lains  of  New  California,  a  fertile  region  extending 
along  the  coast,  with  magnificent  forests,  verdant  savannas, 
and  pi-airies  that  looked  like  stately  parks.  Here  they  found 
deer  and  other  game  in  abundance,  and  indemnified  themselves 
for  past  famine.  They  now  turned  toward  the  south,  and 
passing  numerous  small  bands  of  natives,  posted  upon  various 
streams,  arrived  at  the  Sj^anish  village  and  post  of  Monterey. 

This  is  a  small  place,  containing  about  two  hundred  houses, 
situated  in  latitude  37"  north.  It  has  a  capacious  bay,  with  in- 
different anchorage.  The  surrounding  country  is  extremely 
fertile,  especially  in  the  valleys;  the  soil  is  richer  the  further 
you  penetrate  into  the  interior,  and  the  climate  is  described  as 
a  perpetual  spring.  Indeed,  all  California,  extending  along  the 
Pacific  Ocean  from  latitude  19°  30'  to  43'  north,  is  represented 
as  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  regions  in  North 
America. 

Lower  California,  in  length  about  seven  hundred  miles,  forms 
a  great  peninsula,  which  crosses  the  tropics  and  terminates  in 
the  torrid  zone.  It  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the  Gulf 
of  California,  sometimes  called  the  Vermilion  Sea ;  into  tliis  gulf 
empties  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green 
River,  as  it  is  also  sometimes  called.  The  peninsula  is  traversed 
1)y  stern  and  barren  mountains,  and  has  many  sandy  plains, 
where  the  only  sign  of  vegetation  is  the  cvlindrical  cactus 
grov.-mg  among  the  clefts  of  the  rocks.     Wherever  there  is 


ADVENTURES   OF  C  A  FT  A  IN  BONNEVILLE.         035 

water,  however,  and  vegetable  mould,  the  ardent  nature  of  the 
climate  quickens  everytliing  into  astonishing  iVrtility.  There 
are  valleys  luxuriant  with  the  rich  and  beautiful  productions 
of  the  tropics.  There  the  sugar-cane  and  indigo  plant  attain  a 
perfection  unequalled  in  any  other  part  of  North  America. 
There  flourish  the  olive,  the  fig,  the  date,  the  orange,  the  cit- 
ron, the  pomegranate,  and  other  fruits  belonging  to  the  volup- 
tuous climates  of  the  south;  with  grapes  in  abundance,  thrb 
yield  a  generous  wme.  In  the  interior  are  salt  plains ;  silver 
mines  and  scanty  veins  of  gold  are  said,  likewise,  to  exist; 
and  pearls  of  a  beautiful  water  are  to  be  fished  upon  the  coast. 

The  peninsula  of  California  was  settled  in  1G98,  by  the 
Jesuits,  who,  certainly,  as  far  as  the  natives  were  concerned, 
have  generally  proved  the  most  beneficent  of  colonists.  In  the 
present  instance,  they  gained  and  maintained  a  footing  in  the 
country  without  the  aid  of  military  force,  but  solely  by  reli- 
gious influence.  They  formed  a  treaty,  and  entered  into  the 
most  amicable  relations  with  the  natives,  then  numbering  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  thousand  souls,  and  gained  a  hold  upon 
their  affections,  and  a  control  over  their  minds,  that  effected 
a  complete  change  in  their  conditi(ni.  They  built  eleven  mis- 
sionary establishments  in  the  various  valleys  of  the  peninsula, 
which  formed  rallying  places  for  the  surrounding  savages, 
where  they  gathered  together  as  sheep  into  the  fold,  and  sui-- 
rendered  themselves  and  their  consciences  into  the  hands  of 
these  spiritual  pastors.  Nothing,  we  are  told,  coidd  exceed  the 
implicit  and  allectionate  devotion  of  the  Indian  converts  to  the 
Jesuit  fathers,  and  the  Catholic  faith  was  disseminated  widely 
through  the  wilderness. 

The  growing  power  and  influence  of  the  Jesuits  in  the  New 
World  at  length  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment, and  they  were  banished  from  the  colonies.  The  gover- 
nor, who  arrived  in  California  to  expel  them,  and  to  take 
charge  of  the  country,  expected  to  find  a  rich  and  powerful 
fraternity,  with  immense  treasures  hoarded  in  their  missions, 
and  an  army  of  Indians  ready  to  defend  them.  On  the  c(^n- 
trary,  he  beheld  a  few  venera])le  silver-haired  priests  coming 
humbly  forward  to  meet  liim,  followed  by  a  throng  of  weeping, 
but  submissive  natives.  The  heart  of  the  governor,  it  is  said, 
was  so  touched  by  this  unexpected  sight  that  he  shed  tears, 
but  he  had  to  execute  his  orders.  The  Jesuits  were  accom- 
panied to  the  place  of  their  embarkation  by  their  simple  and 
affectionate  parishioners,  who  took  leave  of  them  Avith  tears 


236         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  sobs.  Many  of  the  latter  abandoned  their  hereditary 
abodes,  and  wandered  off  to  join  their  southern  brethren,  so 
that  but  a  remnant  remained  in  the  peninsula.  The  Francis- 
cans immediately  succeeded  the  Jesuits,  and  subsequently  the 
Dominicans;  but  the  latter  managed  their  affairs  ill.  But  two 
or  the  missionary  establishments  are  at  present  occupied  by 
pi'iests ;  the  rest  are  all  in  ruins,  excepting  one,  which  remains 
a  monument  of  the  foriner  power  and  prosperity  of  the  order. 
This  is  a  noble  edifice,  once  the  seat  of  the  chief  of  the  resident 
Jesuits.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  about  half  way 
between  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  broad  ocean,  the  penin- 
sula being-  here  about  sixty  miles  wide.  The  edifice  is  of  hewn 
stone,  one  story  high,  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  front,  and 
about  fifty-five  feet  deep.  The  walls  are  six  feet  thick,  and 
sixteen  feet  high,  with  a  vaulted  roof  of  stone,  about  two  feet 
and  a  half  in  thickness.  It  is  now  abandoned  and  desolate ; 
the  beautiful  vaUey  is  without  an  inhabitant — not  a  human 
being  resides  within  thirty  miles  of  the  place ! 

In  approaching  this  deserted  mission-house  from  the  south, 
the  traveller  passes  over  the  mountain  of  San  Juan,  supposed 
to  be  the  highest  peak  in  the  CaHfornias.  From  this  lofty 
eminence,  avast  and  magnificent  prospect  unfolds  itself;  the 
great  G-ulf  of  Cahfornia,  with  the  dark  blue  sea  beyond,  stud- 
ded with  islands;  and  in  another  direction,  the  immense  lava 
plain  of  San  Gabriel.  The  splendor  of  the  chniate  gives  an 
Italian  effect  to  the  immense  prospect.  The  sky  is  of  a  deep 
blue  color,  and  the  sunsets  are  often  magnificent  beyond  de- 
scription. Such  is  a  slight  and  imperfect  sketch  of  this  remark- 
able peninsula. 

Upper  California  extends  from  latitude  31°  10'  to  42°  on  the 
Pacific,  and  inland,  to  the  great  chain  of  snow^-capped  moun- 
tains which  divide  it  from  the  sand  plains  of  the  interior. 
There  are  about  twenty-one  missions  in  this  province,  most  of 
which  were  established  about  fifty  years  since,  and  are  gener- 
ally imder  the  care  of  the  Franciscans.  These  exert  a  protect- 
ing sway  over  about  thirty-five  thousand  Indian  converts,  who 
reside  on  the  lands  around  the  mission  houses.  Each  of  these 
houses  has  fifteen  miles  square  of  land  allotted  to  it,  subdivided 
into  small  lots,  proportioned  to  the  number  of  Indian  con- 
verts attached  to  the  mission.  Some  are  enclosed  with  high 
walls:  but  in  gent^ral  they  are  open  hamlets,  composed  of  rows 
of  huts,  built  of  sunburned  bricks ;  in  some  instances  white- 
washed and  roofed  with  tiles.    Many  of  them  are  far  in  the 


ADVENTURED  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         237 

interior,  beyond  the  roach  of  all  military  protecti(jn,  and  de- 
pendent entirely  on  the  good- will  of  the  natives,  which  n(>ver 
fails  them.  They  have  made  considerable  j)r()gi'ess  in  teaching 
the  Indians  the  useful  arts.  There  are  native  tanners,  shoe- 
makers, weavers,  blacksmiths,  stonecutters,  and  other  artifi- 
cers attached  to  each  establishment.  Others  are  taught 
husbandry,  and  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  horses;  while  the 
females  card  and  spin  wool,  weave,  and  perform  the  other 
duties  allotted  to  their  sex  in  civilized  life.  No  social  inter- 
course is  allowed  between  the  unmarried  of  the  opposite  sexes 
after  working  hours ;  and  at  night  they  are  locked  up  in  sepa- 
rate apartments,  and  the  keys  delivered  to  the  priests. 

The  produce  of  the  lands,  and  all  the  profits  arising  from 
sales,  are  entirely  at  the  disposal  of  the  priests ;  whatever  is 
not  retjuired  for  the  support  of  the  missiojis  goes  to  augment  a 
fund  which  is  under  their  control.  Hides  and  tallow  constitute 
the  principal  riches  of  the  missions,  and,  indeed,  the  main 
commerce  of  the  country.  Grain  might  be  produced  to  an  un- 
limited extent  at  the  establishments,  were  there  a  sufficient 
market  for  it.  Olives  and  grapes  are  also  reared  at  the  mis- 
sions. 

Horses  and  hoi'ned  cattle  abound  throughout  all  this  region; 
the  former  may  be  purchased  at  from  three  to  five  dollars,  but 
they  are  of  an  inferior  breed.  Mules,  whic;h  are  here  of  a  large 
size  and  oc  valuable  qualities,  cost  from  seven  to  ten  dollars. 

There  are  several  excellent  ports  along  this  coast.  San 
r>'.ego,  San  Barbara,  Montcrej',  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and 
the  northern  port  of  Bondago;  all  afford  anchorage  for  ships 
of  the  largest  class.  The  port  of  San  Francisco  is  too  well 
known  to  require  much  notice  in  this  place.  The  entrance 
from  the  sea  is  sixty-seven  fathoms  deep,  and  within,  whole 
navies  might  ride  with  perfect  safety.  Two  large  riven;, 
which  take  their  rise  in  mountains  two  or  three  Imndred  miles 
to  the  east,  and  run  through  a  country  inisurpassed  for  soil^ 
and  climate,  empty  themselves  into  the  harbor.  The  country 
around  alfoi'ds  admirable  timber  for  shi]>building.  In  a  word, 
this  favored  port  combines  advantages  which  not  only  fit  it  for 
a  grand  naval  depot,  but  almost  render  it  capable  of  being 
made  the  dominant  military  post  of  these  seas. 

Such  is  a  feeble  outline  of  the  Californian  coast  and  country, 
the  value  of  which  is  more  and  more  attracting  the  attention 
of  naval  powers.  The  Russians  have  always  a  ship  of  war 
upon  this  station,  and  have  already  encroached  upon  the  Call- 


238         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAiy  BONNEVILLE. 

fornian  boiindnries,  by  taking  possession  of  the  port  of  Bon- 
dago,  and  fortifying  it  Avith  several  guns.  Recent  surveys 
have  likewise  been  made,  both  by  the  Russians  and  the  Eng- 
lish, and  we  have  little  doubt,  that,  at  no  very  distant  day,  this 
neglected,  and,  until  recently,  almost  unknown  region,  wiU  be 
found  to  possess  sources  of  wealth  sufficient  to  sustain  a  power- 
ful and  prosperous  empire.  Its  inhabitants  themselves  are  but 
little  aware  of  its  real  riches;  they  have  not  enterprise  suffi- 
cient to  acquaint  themselves  with  a  vast  interior  that  lies 
ahnost  a  terra  incognita;  nor  have  they  the  skill  and  industry 
to  cidtivate  propei'ly  the  fertile  tracts  along  the  coast ;  nor  to 
prosecute  that  foreign  commerce  which  brings  all  the  resourcea 
of  a  country  into  profitable  action. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

GAY  LIFE  AT  MONTEREY  -  MEXICAN  HORSEMEN— A  EOLD  DRAGOON 
—USE  OF  THE  LASSO — VAQUEROS— NOOSING  A  BEAR  — FIGHT 
BETWEEN  A  BULL  AND  A  BEAR — DEPARTURE  FROM  MONTEREY 
—INDIAN  HORSE-STEALERS— OUTRAGES  COMMITTED  BY  THE 
TRAVELLERS— INDIGNATION  OP  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

The  wandering  band  of  trappers  were  well  received  at  Mon- 
terey, the  inhabitants  "sv^ere  desirous  of  retaining  them  among 
them,  and  offered  extrnvagant  wages  to  such  as  were  ac- 
quainted with  any  mechanic  art.  When  they  went  into  the 
country,  too,  they  were  kindly  treated  by  the  pinests  at  the 
missions;  v;ho  are  always  hospitable  to  strangers,  whatever 
i.iay  be  their  rank  or  religion.  They  had  no  lack  of  provisions; 
being  permitted  to  kill  as  many  as  they  pleased  of  the  vast 
herds  of  cattle  that  graze  the  country,  on  condition,  merely, 
of  rendering  the  hides  to  the  owners.  They  attended  bull- 
ights  and  horse  races ;  forgot  all  the  purposes  of  their  expodi- 
wion;  squandered  away,  freely,  the  property  that  did  not  be 
long  to  them;  and,  in  a  word,  revelled  in  a  perfect  fool's 
paradise. 

What  especially  delighted  them  was  the  equestrian  skill  of 
the  Californians.  The  vast  number  and  the  cheapness  of  the 
horses  in  this  country  makes  every  one  a  cavalier.  The  Mexi- 
cans and  half-breeds  of  California  sDend  the  greater  part  of 


ADVF.MURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNE  VILLI-:.         2:30 

their  time  in  the  saddle.  They  are  fearless  riders ;  and  their 
daring  feats  upon  unbroken  colts  and  wild  horses  astonished 
our  trappers,  though  accustomed  to  the  bold  riders  of  the 
prairie. 

A  Mexican  horseman  has  much  resemblance,  in  many  pofnts, 
to  the  equestrians  of  Old  b'pain,  and  especially  to  the  vain- 
glorious caballero  of  Andalusia.  A  Mexican  dragoon,  lor 
instance,  is  represented  as  arrayed  in  a  round  blue  jacket,  with 
red  culfs  and  collar;  blue  velvet  breeches,  unbuttoned  at  the 
knees  to  show  his  white  stockings;  bottinas  of  deer  skin;  a 
round-crowned  Andalusian  hat,  and  his  hair  cued.  On  the 
pommel  of  his  saddle  he  carries  balanced  a  long  musket,  with 
fox-skin  round  the  lock.  He  is  cased  in  a  cuirass  of  double- 
fold  deer-skin,  and  carries  a  bull's  hide  shield;  he  is  forked  in 
a  Moorish  saddle,  high  before  and  behuid;  his  feet  are  thrust 
mto  wooden  box  stirrups,  of  Moorish  fashion,  and  a  tremen- 
dous pair  of  iron  spurs,  fastened  by  chains,  jingle  at  his  heels. 
Thus  equipped,  and  suitably  mounted,  he  considers  himself  the 
glory  of  Oalifornia  and  the  terror  of  the  universe. 

The  Californian horsemen  seldom  ride  out  without  the  lasso; 
that  is  to  say,  a  long  coil  of  cord,  with  a  slip  noose;  with  which 
they  are  expert,  almost  to  a  miracle.  The  lasso,  now  almost 
entii'cly  confined  to  Spanish  America,  is  said  to  be  of  great 
antiquity ;  and  to  have  come  originally  from  the  East.  It  was 
used,  we  are  told,  by  a  pastoral  people  of  Pei'sian  descent;  of 
whom  eight  thousand  accompanied  the  army  of  Xei'xes.  By 
the  Spanish  Americans  it  is  used  for  a  variety  of  purposes; 
an<l  among  others  for  hauling  wood.  Without  dismounting, 
they  cast  the  noose  round  a  log,  and  thus  drag  it  to  their 
houses.  The  vaqueros,  or  Indian  cattle  drivers,  have  also 
learned  the  use  of  the  lasso  fi-om  the  Spaniards,  and  employ  it 
1 )  catch  the  half-wild  cattle  by  throwing  it  round  their  horns. 
.  Tlie  lasso  is  also  of  great  use  in  furnishing  the  public  with  a 
favorite  though  barbarous  sport;  the  combat  between  a  bear 
and  a  wild  bull.  For  this  purpose,  three  or  four  horsemen 
sally  forth  to  some  wood  fre(]uented  by  bears,  and,  depositing 
the  carcass  of  a  bullock,  hide  themselves  in  the  \icinity.  The 
bears  are  soon  attracted  by  the  bait.  As  soon  as  one,  fit  for 
their  purpose,  makes  his  appearance,  they  run  out,  and  with 
the  lasso,  dexterously  noose  him  by  either  leg.  After  dragging 
him  at  fidl  speed  until  he  is  fatigued,  they  secure  him  more 
effectually ;  and  tying  him  on  the  earCass  of  the  bullock,  draw 
him  in  triimiph  to  the  scene  of  action.     By  this  time  he  is  ex- 


240         ADVPJNTUimS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

asperated  to  such  frenzy  that  they  are  sometimes  obhged  to 
throw  cold  water  on  him,  to  moderate  his  fury ;  and  dangerous 
would  it  be  for  horse  and  rider  were  he,  while  in  this  paroxysm, 
to  break  his  bonds. 

A  wild  bull,  of  the  fiercest  kind,  which  has  been  caught  and 
exasj^erated  in  the  same  manner,  is  now  produced,  and  both 
onimals  are  turned  loose  in  the  arena  of  a  small  amphitheatre. 
The  mortal  fight  begins  instantly ;  and  always,  at  first,  to  the 
disadvantage  of  Bruin;  fatigued,  as  he  is,  by  his  previous 
rough  riding.  Roused,  at  length,  by  the  repeated  goring  of  the 
bull,  he  seizes  his  muzzle  with  his  sharp  claws,  and  chnging  to 
this  most  sensitive  part,  causes  him  to  bellow  with  rage  and 
agony.  In  his  heat  and  fury,  the  bull  lolls  out  his  tongue ;  this 
is  instantly  clutched  by  the  bear ;  with  a  desperate  effort  he 
overturns  his  huge  antagonist,  and  then  dispatches  him  with- 
out difficulty. 

Beside  this  diversion,  the  travellers  were  likewise  regaled 
with  bull  fights,  in  the  genuine  style  of  Old  Spain ;  the  Cali- 
fornians  being  considered  the  best  bull- fighters  in  the  Mexican 
dominions. 

After  a  considerable  sojourn  at  Monterey,  spent  in  these 
very  edifying,  but  not  very  profitable  amusements,  the  leader 
of  this  vagabond  party  set  out  with  his  comrades  on  his  return 
journey.  Instead  of  retracing  their  steps  through  the  moun- 
tains, they  passed  round  their  southern  extremity,  and,  cross- 
ing a  range  of  low  hills,  found  themselves  in  the  sandy  plains 
south  of  Ogden's  Eiver ;  in  traversing  which,  they  again  suf- 
fered grievously  for  want  of  water. 

In  the  course  of  their  journey,  they  encountered  a  party  of 
Mexicans  in  pursuit  of  a  gang  of  natives,  who  had  been  steal- 
ing horses.  The  savages  of  this  part  of  California  are  repre- 
sented as  extremely  poor,  and  armed  only  with  stone-pointed 
arrows;  it  being  the  wise  pohcy  of  the  Spaniards  not  to  fur- 
nish them  with  firearms.  As  they  find  it  difficult,  with  their 
blunt  shafts,  to  kill  the  wild  game  of  the  mountains,  they  oc- 
casionally supply  themselves  with  food,  by  entrapping  the 
Spanish  horses.  Driving  them  stealthily  into  fastnesses  and 
ravines,  they  slaughter  them  without  difficulty,  and  dry  their 
flesh  for  provisions.  Some  they  carry  off,  to  trade  with  dis- 
tant tribes;  and  in  this  way,  the  Spanish  horses  pass  from 
hand  to  hand  among  the  Indians,  until  they  even  find  their 
way  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  Mexicans  are  continually  on  the  alert,  to  intercept  these 


ADV/:yTunr:s  of  CAriAix  Bonneville.      041 

marauders;  but  the  Indians  are  apt  to  outwit  them,  and  force 
them  to  make  long  and  wild  expeditions  in  pui-suit  of  their 
stolen  horses. 

Two  of  the  Mexican  party  just  mentioned  joined  the  band 
of  trappers,  and  proved  themselves  worthy  companions.  In 
the  course  of  their  journey  through  the  country  frequented  by 
the  poor  Root  Diggers,  there  seems  to  have  been  an  emulation 
between  them,  which  could  inflict  the  greatest  outrages  upon 
t'le  natives.  The  trappers  still  considered  them  in  t!ie  light 
of  dangerous  foes  and  the  Mexicans,  very  probably,  charged 
them  with  the  sin  of  horse-stealing;  we  have  no  other  mode  of 
accounting  for  the  infamous  barbarities  of  which,  according  to 
their  own  story,  they  were  guilty ;  hunting  the  poor  Indians 
like  wild  beasts,  and  killing  them  without  mercy.  The  i\Iexi- 
cans  excelled  at  this  savage  sport ;  chasing  their  unfortunate 
victims  at  full  speed;  noosing  them  round  the  neck  with 
their  lassoe:^,  and  then  dragging  them  to  death ! 

Such  are  the  scanty  details  of  this  most  disgraceful  expedi- 
tion; at  least,  such  are  all  that  Captain  Bonneville  had  the 
patience  to  collect,  for  he  was  so  deeply  grieved  by  the  failure 
of  his  ])lans,  and  so  indignant  at  the  atrocities  related  to  him, 
that  he  turned,  with  disgust  and  horror,  from  the  narrators. 
Had  he  exerted  a  little  of  the  Lynch  law  of  the  wilderness,  and 
hanged  those  dexterous  horeemen  in  their  own  lassoes,  it  would 
but  have  been  a  well-merited  and  salutary  act  of  retributive 
justice.  The  failure  of  this  expedition  was  a  bloAv  to  his  pride, 
and  a  still  greater  blow  to  his  purse.  The  Great  Salt  Lake 
still  remained  unexplored ;  at  the  same  time,  the  means  which 
had  been  furnished  so  liberally  to  fit  out  this  favorite  expedi- 
tion, had  all  been  squandered  at  Monterey;  and  the  peltries, 
also,  which  had  been  collected  on  the  way.  He  would  have 
but  scanty  returns,  therefore,  to  make  this  year,  to  his  asso- 
ciates in  the  United  States;  and  there  was  great  danger  of 
their  becoming  disheartened,  and  abandoning  the  enterprise. 


242        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER   XL. 

travellers'  tales— INDIAN  LURKERS— rROGNOSTICS  OF  BUCK- 
EYE—SIGNS AND  PORTENTS — THE  MEDICINE  WOLF — AN  ALARM — 
AN  AMBUSH — THE  CAPTURED  PRO V ANT— TRIUMPH  OF  BUCKEYE 
— ARRIVAL  OF  SUPPLIES — GRAND  CAROUSE— ARRANGEBIENTS  FOR 
THE  YEAR — JIR.  WYETH  AND  HIS  NEW-LEVIED  BAND. 

The  horror  and  indifniation  felt  by  Captain  Bonneville  at 
the  excesses  of  the  Californian  adventurers  Avere  not  partici- 
pated by  his  men ;  on  the  contrary,  the  events  of  that  expedi- 
tion were  favorite  themes  in  the  camp.  The  heroes  of  Mon- 
terey bore  the  palm  in  all  the  gossipings  among  the  hunters. 
Their  glowing  descriptions  of  Spanish  bear-baits  and  bull- 
fights especially,  were  listened  to  with  intense  delight;  and 
had  another  expedition  to  California  been  proposed,  the  diffi- 
culty would  have  been  to  restrain  a  general  eagerness  to 
volunteer. 

The  captain  had  not  long  been  at  the  rendezvous  when  he 
perceived,  by  various  signs,  that  Indians  were  lurking  in  the 
neighborhood.  It  was  evident  that  the  Blackfoot  band,  which 
he  had  seen  when  on  his  march,  had  dogged  his  party,  and 
were  intent  on  mischief.  He  endeavored  to  keep  his  camp  on 
the  alert;  but  it  is  as  difficult  to  maintain  discipline  among 
trappers  at  a  rendezvous  as  among  sailors  when  in  port. 

Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian,  was  scandalized  at  this 
heedlessness  of  the  hunters  when  an  enemy  was  at  hand,  and 
w^as  continually  preaching  up  caution.  He  was  a  little  prone 
to  play  the  prophet,  and  to  deal  in  signs  and  portents,  which 
occasionally  excited  the  merriment  of  his  white  comrades. 
He  was  a  great  dreamer,  and  believed  in  charms  and  talis- 
maiis,  or  medicines,  and  could  foretell  the  approach  of 
strangers  by  the  howling  or  barking  of  the  small  prairie  wolf. 
This  animal,  being  driven  by  the  larger  wolves  from  the  car- 
casses left  on  the  hunting  grounds  by  the  hunters,  foUows  the 
trail  of  the  fresh  meat  carried  to  the  camp.  Here  the  smell  of 
the  roast  and  broiled,  mingling  with  every  breeze,  keeps  them 
hovering  about  the  neighborhood ;  scenting  every  blast,  turn- 
ing up  their  noses  like  hungry  hounds,  and  testifying  their 


AVVEM'URES  OF  CAPTAIN  noyyEVJLLK         243 

pinching  hunger  by  long  whining  hoAvls  and  impatient  l)ar]c- 
ings.  These  are  interpreted  by  the  superstitious  Indians  into 
waiTiings  that  strangers  are  at  hand ;  and  one  accidental  coin- 
cidence, like  the  chance  fulfilment  of  an  almanac  prediction, 
is  sufficient  to  cover  a  thousand  failures.  This  little,  whining, 
feast-smelling  animal  is,  therefore,  called  among  Indians  the 
"medicine  wolf ;"  and  such  was  one  of  Buckeye's  infalhble 
oracles. 

One  morning  early,  the  soothsaying  Delaware  appeared  with 
a  gloomy  countenance.  His  mind  was  full  of  dismal  presenti- 
ments, whether  from  mysterious  dreams,  or  the  intimations  of 
the  medicine  wolf,  does  not  appear.  "  Danger,"  he  said,  "was 
lurking  in  their  path,  and  there  would  be  some  fighting  before 
sunset."  He  was  bantered  for  his  pro})hccy,  which  was  at- 
tributed to  his  having  supped  too  heartily,  and  been  visited  by 
bad  dreams.  In  the  course  of  the  morning  a  party  of  hunters 
set  out  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  taking  with  them  a  nude,  to  bring 
home  the  meat  they  should  procure.  They  had  been  some 
few  hours  absent,  when  they  came  clattering  at  full  speed 
into  camp,  giving  the  war  cry  of  Blackfeet !  Blackfeet !  Every 
one  seized  his  weapon,  and  ran  to  learn  the  cause  of  the  alarm. 
It  appeared  that  the  hunters,  as  they  were  returning  leisurely, 
leading  their  mule  well  laden  with  prime  pieces  of  buffalo 
meat,  passed  close  by  a  small  stream  overhang  with  trees, 
about  two  miles  from  the  camp.  Suddenly  a  party  of  Black- 
feet, who  lay  in  ambush  along  the  thickets,  sprang  up  with  a 
fearful  yell,  and  discharged  a  volley  at  the  hunters.  The  latter 
immediately  threw  themselves  flat  on  their  horses,  put  them 
to  their  speed,  and  never  paused  to  look  behind,  until  they 
found  themselves  in  camp.  Fortunately,  they  had  escaped 
without  a  wound;  but  the  mule,  with  all  the  "provant,"  had 
fallen  into  the  liands  of  the  enemy.  This  was  a  loss,  as  well 
as  an  insult,  not  to  be  borne.  Every  man  sprang  to  horse, 
and  witli  rifle  in  hand,  galloi)ed  off  to  punish  the  Blackfeet, 
and  rescue  the  buffalo  beef.  They  came  too  late;  the  maraud- 
ers were  off,  and  all  that  they  found  of  their  mule  was  the 
dents  of  his  hoofs,  as  he  had  been  conveyed  off  at  a  romid 
trot,  bearing  his  savory  cargo  to  the  hills,  to  furnish  the 
scampering  savages  with  a  banquet  of  roast  meat  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  white  men. 

The  party  rc'turned  to  camp,  balked  of  their  revenge,  but 
still  more  grievously  balked  of  their  supper.  Bucke_ye,  the 
Delawai'c,  sat  smoking  by  his  fire,  perfectly  composed.     As 


244         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  Inmtcrs  related  the  particulars  of  the  attack,  he  listened 
in  silence,  with  unruffled  countenance,  then  pointing  to  the 
west,  "the  sun  has  not  yet  set,"  said  he:  '"Buckeye  did  not 
dream  hke  a  fool !" 

All  present  now  recollected  the  prediction  of  the  Indian  at 
daybreak,  and  were  struck  with  what  appeared  to  be  its  fulfil- 
ment. They  called  to  mind,  also,  a  long  catalogue  of  foregone 
presentiments  and  predictions  made  at  various  times  by  the 
Delaware,  and,  in  their  superstitious  credulity,  began  to  con- 
sider him  a  veritable  seer ;  without  thinking  how  natural  it 
was  to  predict  danger,  and  how  likely  to  have  the  prediction 
verified  in  the  present  instance,  when  various  signs  gave  evi- 
dence of  a  lurking  foe. 

The  various  bands  of  Captain  Bonneville's  company  had  now 
been  assembled  for  some  time  at  the  rendezvous ;  they  had  had 
their  fill  of  feasting,  and  frolicking,  and  all  the  species  of  wild 
nnd  often  uncouth  merry-making,  which  invariably  take  place 
on  these  occasions.  Their  horses,  as  well  as  themselves,  had 
recovered  from  past  famine  and  fatigue,  and  were  again  fit  for 
active  service;  and  an  impatience  began  to  manifest  itself 
among  the  men  once  more  to  take  the  field,  and  set  off  on 
Gome  w^andering  expedition. 

At  this  juncture  M.  Cerre  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  at  the 
head  of  a  supply  party,  bringing  goods  and  equipments  from 
the  States.  This  active  leader,  it  will  be  recollected,  had  em- 
barked the  year  previously  in  skin -boats  on  the  Bighorn, 
frcightsd  with  the  year's  collection  of  peltries.  He  had  met 
with  misfortunes  in  the  course  of  his  voyage :  one  of  his  frail 
barks  being  upset,  and  part  of  the  furs  lost  or  damaged. 

The  arrival  of  the  supplies  gave  the  regular  finish  to  the 
annual  revel.  A  grand  outbreak  of  wild  debauch  ensued 
among  the  mountaineers;  drinking,  dancing,  swaggering, 
gambling,  quarrelling,  and  fighting.  Alcohol,  which,  from, 
its  portable  qualities,  containing  the  greatest  quantity  of 
fiery  spirit  in  the  smallest  compass,  is  the  only  liquor  carried 
across  the  mountains,  is  the  inflammatory  beverage  at  these 
carousals,  and  is  dealt  out  to  the  trappers  at  four  dollars  a 
pint.  When  inflamed  by  this  fiery  beverage,  they  cut  .all 
kinds  of  mad  pranks  and  gambols,  and  sometimes  burn  all 
their  clothes  in  their  drunken  bravadoes.  A  camp,  recovering 
from  one  of  these  riotous  revels,  presents  a  serio-comic  specta- 
cle; black  eyes,  broken  heads,  lack-lustre  visages.  Many  of 
the  trappers  have  squandered  in  one  drunken  frolic  the  hard- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTMX  JJO.\y/:VILLK         245 

earned  wages  of  a  year ;  some  have  run  in  debt,  and  must  toil 
on  to  pay  tor  past  pleasure.  All  are  sated  with  this  deep 
draught  of  pleasure,  and  eager  to  commence  another  trapping 
campaign ;  for  hardship  and  hard  work,  spiced  with  the  stim- 
ulants of  Avild  adventures,  and  topped  ott"  with  an  annual  fran- 
tic carousal,  is  the  lot  of  the  restless  trapper. 

The  captain  now  made  his  arrangements  for  the  current 
year.  Cerre  and  Walker,  with  a  number  of  men  who  had 
been  to  California,  were  to  proceed  to  St.  Louis  with  the  pack- 
ages of  furs  collected  during  the  past  year.  Another  party, 
headed  by  a  leader  named  Montero,  was  to  proceed  to  the 
Crow  country,  trap  upon  its  various  streams,  and  among  the 
Black  Hills,  and  thence  to  proceed  to  the  Arkansas,  where  ho 
was  to  go  into  winter  quarters. 

The  captain  marked  out  for  himself  a  widely  different 
course.  He  intended  to  make  another  expedition,  w^ith 
twenty-three  men  to  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  River, 
and  to  proceed  to  the  valley  of  the  Multnomah ;  after  winter- 
ing in  Irhose  parts,  and  establishing  a  trade  with  those  tribes, 
among  whosa  he  had  sojourned  on  his  first  visit,  he  would 
return  in  the  spring,  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  join 
Montero  and  his  party  in  the  month  of  July,  at  the  rendezvous 
of  the  Arkansaw;  where  he  expected  to  receive  his  annuixl  sup- 
plies from  the  States. 

If  the  reader  will  cast  his  eye  upon  a  map,  he  may  form  an 
idea  of  the  contempt  for  distance  which  a  man  acquires  in  this 
vast  wilderness,  by  noticing  the  extent  of  country  comprised 
in  these  projected  wanderings.  Just  as  the  different  parties 
were  about  to  set  out  on  the  3d  of  JiUy,  on  their  opposite 
routes.  Captain  Bonneville  received  intelligence  that  Wyeth, 
the  indefatigable  leader  of  the  salmon-fishing  enterprise,  who 
had  parted  witli  him  about  a  year  previously  on  the  banks  of 
the  Bigliorn,  to  descend  tliat  wild  river  in  a  bull  boat,  was  near 
at  hand,  with  a  new  levied  band  of  hunters  and  trappers,  and 
was  on  his  way  once  more  to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia. 

As  we  take  much  interest  in  the  novel  enterprise  of  this 
"eastern  man,"  and  are  pleased  with  his  pusliing  and  perse- 
vering spirit ;  and  as  his  movements  are  characteristic  of  life 
in  the  Avildemess,  we  will,  with  the  reader's  permission,  while 
Captain  Boimeville  is  breaking  up  his  camp  and  saddling  his 
horses,  step  back  a  year  in  time,  and  a  few  hundred  miles  in 
distance,  to  the  bank  of  the  Bighorn,  and  launch  ourselves 
with  Wyeth  in  his  bull  boat;  and  though  his  adventurous 


24G         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

voyage  -will  take  us  many  hundreds  of  miles  further  down 
wild  and  wandering  rivers;  yet  such  is  the  magic  power  of 
the  pen,  that  we  promise  to  brhig  the  reader  sale  to  Bear 
Kiver  valley,  by  the  time  the  last  horse  is  saddled. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

A  VOYAGE  IN  A  BULL  BOAT. 

It  was  about  the  middle  of  August  (1833)  that  Mr.  Nathaniel 
J.  Wyeth,  as  the  reader  may  recollect,  launched  his  bull  boat 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  the  Bighorn,  and  departed  in  ad- 
vance of  the  parties  of  Campbell  and  Captain  Bonneville.  His 
boat  was  made  of  three  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  a  light 
frame,  stitched  together,  and  the  seams  paid  with  elk  tallow 
and  ashes.  It  was  eighteen  feet  long,  and  about  five  feet  six 
inches  \vide,  sharp  at  each  end,  with  a  round  bottom,  and  drew 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  of  water— a  depth  too  great  for  these 
upper  rivers,  which  abound  with  shallows  and  sand-bars.  The 
crew  consisted  of  two  half-breeds,  who  claimed  to  be  white 
men,  though  a  mixture  of  the  French  Creole  and  the  Shawnee 
and  Potawattomie.  They  claimed,  moreover,  to  be  thorough 
mountaineers,  and  first-rate  hunters  —  the  common  boast  of 
these  vagabonds  of  the  wilderness.  Besides  these,  there  was 
a  Nez  Perce  lad  of  eighteen  years  of  age,  a  kind  of  servant  of 
aU  work,  whose  great  aim,  like  all  Indian  servants,  was  to  do 
as  little  work  as  possible;  there  Avas,  moreover,  a  half-breed 
boy,  of  thirteen,  named  Baptiste,  son  of  a  Hudson's  Bay  trader 
by  a  Flathead  beauty;  who  was  travelUng  with  Wyeth  to  see 
the  world  and  complete  his  education.  Add  to  these,  Mr.  Mil- 
ton Sublette,  who  went  as  passenger,  and  we  have  the  crew  of 
the  nttle  bull  boat  complete. 

It  certainly  was  a  slight  armament  with  which  to  run  the 
gauntlet  through  countries  swarming  with  hostile  hordes,  and 
a  sliglat  bark  to  navigate  these  endless  rivers,  tossing  and 
pitching  down  rapids,  running  on  snags  and  bumping  on  sand- 
bars; such,  however,  are  the  cockle-shells  with  which  these 
hardy  rovers  of  the  wilderness  will  attempt  the  wildest 
streams ;  and  it  is  surprising  what  rough  shocks  and  thumps 
these  boats  will  endure,  and  what  vicissitudes  they  wiU  live 


ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTATX  BOyXFA'ILLE.         247 

through.  Their  duration,  however,  is  but  limited;  thcj  re- 
quire frequently  to  be  hauled  out  of  the  water  and  dried,  to 
pi'cvent  the  hides  from  becoming  water-soaked;  and  they 
eventually  rot  and  go  to  pieces. 

The  course  of  the  river  was  a  little  to  the  north  of  east ;  it 
ran  about  five  miles  an  hour,  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  The 
banks  were  generally  alluvial,  and  thickly  grown  with  cotton- 
wood  trees,  intermingled  occasionally  with  ash  and  plum  trees. 
Now  and  then  limestone  cliffs  and  promontories  advanced 
upon  the  river,  making  picturesque  headlands.  Beyond  the 
woody  borders  rose  ranges  of  naked  hills. 

Milton  Sublette  was  the  Pelorus  of  this  adventurous  bark; 
being  somewhat  experienced  in  this  wild  kind  of  navigation. 
It  reqiiired  all  his  attention  and  skill,  however,  to  pilot  her 
clear  oi  sand-bars  and  snags  of  sunken  trees.  There  was  often, 
too,  a  i)erplexity  of  choice,  where  the  river  branched  into 
various  channels,  among  clusters  of  islands :  and  occasionally 
the  voyagers  found  themselves  aground  and  had  to  turn  back. 

It  was  necessary,  also,  to  keep  a  wary  eye  upon  the  land, 
for  they  were  passing  through  the  heart  of  the  Crow  country, 
and  were  continually  in  reach  of  any  ambush  that  might  be 
lurking  on  shore.  The  most  formidable  foes  that  they  saw, 
however,  were  three  grizzly  bears,  quietly  promenading  along 
the  bank,  who  seemed  to  gaze  at  them  with  surprise  as  they 
glided  by.  Herds  of  buffalo,  also,  were  moving  about,  or 
lying  on  the  gi'ound,  like  cattle  in  a  pasture ;  excepting  such 
inhabitants  as  these,  a  perfect  solitude  reigned  oyer  the  land. 
There  was  no  sign  of  human  habitation ;  for  the  Crows,  as  we 
have  ah-eady  shown,  are  a  wandering  people,  a  race  of  hunters 
and  warriors,  who  live  in  tents  and  on  horseback,  and  are  con- 
tinually on  the  move. 

At  night  they  landed,  hauled  up  their  boat  to  dry,  pitched 
their  tent,  and  made  a  rousing  fire.  Then,  as  it  was  the  first 
evening  of  their  voyage,  they  indulged  in  a  regale,  relishing 
their  buffalo  beef  with  inspiring  alcohol;  after  which,  they 
slept  soundly,  without  dreaming  of  Crows  or  Blackfeet.  Early 
in  the  morning,  they  again  launched  the  boat  and  committed 
themselves  to  the  sti-eam. 

In  this  way  they  voyaged  for  two  days  without  any  material 
occurrence,  excepting  a  severe  thunder  storm,  which  com- 
pelled them  to  put  to  shore,  and  wait  until  it  was  passed.  On 
the  third  morning  they  descried  some  persons  at  a  distance  on 
the  river  bank.    As  they  wei'o  now,  by  calculation,  at  no  great 


248         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

distance  from  Fort  Cass,  a  trading  post  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  they  supposed  these  might  be  some  of  its  people. 
A  nearer  approach  showed  them  to  be  Indians.  Descrying  a 
woman  apart  from  the  rest,  they  landed  and  accosted  her. 
She  informed  them  that  the  main  force  of  the  Crow  nation, 
consisting  of  five  bands,  under  their  several  chiefs,  were  but 
about  two  or  three  miles  below,  on  their  way  up  along  the 
river.  This  was  unpleasant  tidings,  but  to  retreat  was  impos- 
sible, and  the  river  afforded  no  hiding  place.  They  continued 
forward,  therefore,  trusting  that,  as  Fort  Cass  was  so  near  at 
hand,  the  Crows  might  refrain  from  any  depredations. 

Floating  down  about  two  miles  further,  they  came  in  sight 
of  the  first  band,  scattered  along  the  river  bank,  all  well 
mounted;  some  armed  with  guns,  others  with  bows  and  ar- 
rows, and  a  few  with  lances.  They  made  a  wildly  picturesque 
appearance,  managing  their  horses  with  their  accustomed  dex- 
terity and  grace.  Nothing  can  be  more  spirited  than  a  band 
of  Crow  cavaliers.  They  are  a  fine  race  of  men,  averaging  six 
feet  in  height,  hthe  and  active,  with  hawks'  eyes  and  Roman 
noses.  The  latter  feature  is  common  to  the  Indians  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Eocky  Mountains ;  those  on  the  western  side 
have  generally  straight  or  fiat  noses. 

Wyeth  would  fain  have  slipped  by  this  cavalcade  unnoticed ; 
but  the  river,  at  this  place,  was  not  more  than  ninety  yards 
across;  be  was  perceived,  therefore,  and  hailed  by  the  vaga- 
bond warriors,  and,  we  presume,  in  no  very  choice  language ; 
for,  among  t^-ieir  other  accomphshments,  the  Crows  are  famed 
for  possessing  a  Billingsgate  vocabidary  of  unrivalled  opu- 
lence, and  for  being  by  no  means  sparing  of  it  whenever  an 
occasion  offers.  Indeed,  though  Indians  are  generally  very 
lofty,  rhetorical,  and  figin'ative  in  their  language  at  all  great 
talks,  and  high  ceremonials,  yet,  if  trappers  and  traders  may 
be  believed,  they  are  the  most  unsavory  vagabonds  in  their 
ordinaiy  colloquies;  they  make  no  hesitation  to  call  a  spade  a 
spade ;  and  when  they  once  undertake  to  call  hard  names,  the 
famous  pot  and  kettle,  of  vituperating  memory,  are  not  to  be 
compared  Avith  them  for  scurrility  of  epithet. 

To  escape  the  infhctiori  of  any  compliments  of  this  kind,  or 
the  launching,  peradventure,  of  more  dangerous  missiles, 
Wyeth  landed  with  the  best  grace  in  his  power,  and  ap- 
proached the  chier  of  the  band.  It  was  Arapooish,  the  quon- 
dam friend  of  Rose  the  outlaw,  and  one  whom  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned  as  being  anxious  to  promote  a  friendly  inter- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         049 

course  between  his  tribe  and  the  white  men.  He  was  n  tall, 
stout  man,  of  good  presence,  and  received  the  voyagers  very 
graciously.  His  people,  too,  thronged  around  them,  and  were 
officiously  attentive  after  the  Crow  fashion.  One  took  a  great 
fancy  to  Baptiste  the  Flathead  boy,  and  a  still  greater  fancy 
to  a  ring  on  his  finger,  which  he  transposed  to  his  own  with 
surprising  dexterity,  and  then  disappeared  with  a  quick  step 
among  the  crowd. 

Another  was  no  less  pleased  with  the  Nez  Perce  lad,  and 
nothing  would  do  but  he  must  exchange  knives  with  him ; 
drawing  a  new  knife  out  of  the  Nez  Perce's  scabbard,  and 
putting  an  old  one  in  its  place.  Another  stepped  up  and 
replaced  this  old  knife  with  one  still  older,  and  a  third  helped 
himseK  to  knife,  scabbard  and  all.  It  was  with  much  difii- 
culty  that  Wyeth  and  his  companions  extricated  themselves 
from  the  clutches  of  these  officious  Crows  before  they  were 
entirely  plucked. 

Falling  down  the  river  a  little  further,  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  second  band,  and  sheered  to  the  opposite  side,  with  the 
intention  of  passing  them.  The  Crows  were  not  to  be  evaded. 
Some  pointed  their  guns  at  the  boat,  and  threatened  to  fire ; 
others  stripped,  plunged  into  the  stream,  and  came  swimming 
aci'oss.  Making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  Wyeth  thi'cw  a  cord  to 
the  first  that  came  within  reach,  as  if  he  wished  to  be  drawn 
to  the  shore. 

In  this  way  he  was  overhauled  by  every  band,  and  by  the 
time  he  and  his  people  came  out  of  the  busy  hands  of  the  last, 
they  were  eased  of  most  of  their  superfluities.  Nothing,  in  all 
probability,  but  the  proximity  of  the  American  trading  T»ost, 
kept  these  land  pirates  from  making  a  good  prize  of  the  bull 
boat  and  all  its  contents. 

These  bands  were  in  full  march,  equipped  for  war,  and 
evidently  full  of  mischief.  They  were,  in  fact,  the  very  bands 
that  overran  the  land  in  the  autimin  of  1S33;  partly  robbed 
Fitzpatrick  of  his  horses  and  effects;  hunted  and  harassed 
Captain  Bonneville  and  his  people;  broke  up  their  trapping 
campaigns,  and,  in  a  word,  drove  them  all  out  of  the  Crow 
country.  It  has  been  suspected  that  they  were  set  on  to  these 
pranks  by  some  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  anxious  to 
defeat  the  plans  of  their  rivals  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Com- 
pany; for  at  this  time,  their'competition  was  at  its  height,  and 
the  trade  of  the  Crow  coimtry  was  a  great  object  of  rivalry. 
What  makes  this  the  more  probable,  is.  that  the  Crows  in 


250         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

their  depredation  seemed  by  no  means  bloodthirsty,  but  intent 
chiefly  on  robbing  the  parties  of  their  traps  and  horses, 
thereby  disabling  them  from  prosecuting  their  hunting. 

AVe  should  observe  that  this  year,  ^he  Rocky  Mountain 
Company  were  pushing  their  way  up  the  rivers,  and  establish- 
ing rival  posts  near  those  of  the  American  Company;  and 
that,  at  the  very  time  of  which  we  are  speaking,  Captain  Sub- 
lette was  ascending  the  Yellowstone  with  a  keel  boat,  laden 
with  supplies;  so  that  there  was  every  prospect  of  this  cage j 
rivalsliip  being  cari'ied  to  extremities. 

The  last  band  of  Crow  warriors  had  scarce  disappeared  in 
the  cloud  of  dust  they  had  raised,  when  our  voyagers  arrived 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  glided  into  the  current  of  the 
Yellowstone.  Turning  down  this  stream,  they  made  for  Fort 
Cass,  which  is  situated  on  the  right  bank,  about  three  miles 
below  the  Bighorn.  On  the  opposite  side  they  beheld  a  party 
of  thu'ty-one  savages,  which  they  soon  ascertained  to  be 
Blackfeet.  The  width  of  the  river  enabled  tliein  to  keep  at  a 
sufficient  distance,  and  they  soon  landed  at  Fort  Cass.  This 
was  a  mere  fortification  against  Indians ;  being  a  stockade  of 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square,  -with  two  bastions 
at  the  extreme  corners.  M'Tidloch,  an  agent  of  the  American 
Company,  was  stationed  there  with  twenty  men ;  two  boats  of 
fifteen  tons  burden  were  lying  here ;  but  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year  a  steamboat  can  come  up  to  the  fort. 

They  had  scarcely  arrived,  when  the  Blackfeet  warriors 
made  their  appearance  on  the  opposite  bank,  displaying  two 
American  flags  in  token  of  amity.  They  plunged  into  the 
river,  swam  across,  and  were  kindly  received  at  the  fort. 
They  were  some  of  the  very  men  who  had  been  engaged,  the 
year  previously,  in  the  battle  at  Pierre's  Hole,  and  a  fierce- 
looking  set  of  fellows  they  were;  tall  and  hawk-nosed,  and 
very  much  resembling  the  Crows.  They  professed  to  bo  on  an 
amicable  errand,  to  make  peace  with  the  Crows,  and  set  off  in. 
all  haste,  before  night,  to  overtake  them.  Wyeth  predicted 
that  they  would  lose  their  scalps;  for  he  had  heard  the  Crov/s 
denounce  vengeance  on  them,  for  having  murdered  two  of 
their  warriors  who  had  ventured  among  them  on  the  faith  of 
a  treaty  of  peace.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  this  pacific 
errand  was  all  a  pretence,  and  that  the  real  object  of  the 
Blackfeet  braves  was  to  hang  about  the  skirts  of  the  Crow 
bands,  steal  their  horses,  and  take  the  scalps  of  stragglers. 

At  Fort  Cass,  Mr.  Wyeth  disposed   of  some   packages  of 


ADVKXTUUKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILI.E.         o.")! 

beaver,  and  a  quantity  of  bufTalo  robes.  On  tlie  following 
murniiig  (August  l^sth),  ho  once  more  launched  his  bidl  boat, 
and  proceeded  down  the  Yellowstone,  wiiich  inclined  in  an 
cast-northeast  direction.  The  river  had  alluvial  bottoms, 
fringed  with  great  quantities  of  the  sweet  cotton-wood,  and 
interrupted  occasionally  by  "bluffs"  of  sandstone.  Tlie  cur-, 
rent  occasionally  brings  down  fragments  of  granite  and  por- 
phyry. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  saw  something  moving  on  the 
bank  among  the  trees,  which  they  mistook  for  game  of  some 
kind;  and,  being  in  want  of  provisions,  pulled  toward  shoi-e. 
They  discovered,  just  in  time,  a  party  of  Blackfeet,  lurking  in 
the  thickets,  and  sheered,  with  all  speed,  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river. 

After  a  time,  they  came  in  sight  of  a  gang  of  elk.  Wyeth 
was  immediately  for  pursuing  them,  rifle  in  hand,  but  saw 
evident  signs  of  dissatisfaction  in  his  lialf-breed  hunters;  who 
considered  him  as  trenching  upon  their  province,  and  med- 
dling with  things  quite  above  his  capacity;  for  these  veterans 
of  the  wilderness  are  exceedingly  pragmatical,  on  points  of 
venery  and  woodcraft,  and  tenacious  of  their  superiority; 
looking  down  w'ith  infinite  contempt  upon  all  raw  beginners. 
The  two  worthies,  theiefore,  sallied  forth  themselves,  but 
after  a  time  returned  empty-handed.  They  laid  the  blame, 
however,  entirely  on  their  guns;  two  miserable  old  pieces 
with  flint  locks,  which,  with  all  their  picking  and  hanuTiering, 
were  continually  apt  to  miss  fire.  These  great  boasters  of  the 
wilderness,  however,  are  very  often  excee<ling  bad  shots,  and 
fortimate  it  is  for  them  when  they  have  old  Hint  guns  to  bear 
the  blame. 

The  next  day  they  passed  where  a  great  herd  of  buffalo 
were  bellowing  on  a  prairie.  Again  the  Castor  and  Pollux  of 
the  wilderness  sallied  forth,  and  again  their  flint  guns  were  at 
fault,  and  missed  fire,  and  nothing  went  off  but  the  bullalo. 
Wyeth  now  found  there  was  danger  of  losing  his  dinnin-  ii  he 
depended  ujion  his  hunters;  he  took  rifle  in  hand,  therefore, 
and  went  forth  himself.  In  the  course  of  nw  hour  he  returned 
laden  with  buffalo  meat,  to  the  great  mortification  of  the  two 
regular  hunters,  who  were  annoyed  at  being  eclipsed  by  a 
greenhorn. 

AU  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  the  midday  repast. 
A  fire  was  made  under  an  immense  cotton-wood  tree,  that 
ovenJiadowed  a  beautif\d  piece  of  meadow  land;  rich  moreels 


202         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

of  buffalo  liiimp  were  soon  roasting  before  it ;  in  a  hearty  and 
prolonged  repast,  the  two  imsuccessful  hunters  gradually 
recovered  from  tlieir  mortification;  threatened  to  discard  their 
old  flint  guns  as  soon  as  they  should  reach  the  settlements, 
and  boasted  more  than  ever  of  the  wonderful  shots  they  had 
made,  when  they  had  guns  that  never  missed  fire. 

Having  hauled  up  their  boat  to  dry  in  the  sun,  .previous  to 
making  their  repast,  the  voyagers  now  set  it  once  more  afloat, 
ji  iid  pnjceeded  on  their  way.  They  had  constructed  a  sail  out  of 
their  old  tent,  which  they  hoisted  whenever  the  wind  was  favor- 
able, and  thus  skimmed  along  down  the  stream.  Their  voy- 
age was  pleasant,  notwithstanding  the  perils  by  sea  and  land, 
with  which  they  were  environed.  Whenever  they  could  they 
encamped  on  islands  for  the  greater  security.  If  on  the  main- 
land, and  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  they  would  shift  their 
camp  after  dark,  leaving  their  fire  burning,  dropping  down  tho 
river  to  some  distance,  and  making  no  fire  at  their  second  en- 
campment. Sometimes  they  would  float  all  night  with  the 
ciu-rent ;  one  keeping  watch  and  steering  v^hile  the  rest  slept : 
in  such  case,  they  would  haul  their  boat  on  shore,  at  noon  of 
the  following  day  to  dry;  for  notwithstanding  every  precau- 
tion, she  was  gradually  getting  water-soaked  and  rotten. 

There  was  something  pleasingly  solemn  and  mysterious  in 
thus  floating  down  these  wild  rivers  at  night.  The  purity  of 
the  atmosphere  in  these  elevated  regions  gave  additional  splen- 
dor to  the  stars,  and  heightened  the  magnificence  of  the  fir- 
mament. The  occasional  rush  and  laving  of  the  waters ;  the 
vague  sounds  from  the  surrounding  wilderness;  the  dreary 
howl,  or  rather  whine  of  wolves  from  the  plains;  the  low 
gnmting  and  bellowing  of  the  buffalo,  and  the  shrill  neighing 
oi'  the  elk,  struck  the  ear  with  an  effect  unknown  in  the  day- 
1  me. 

Tho  two  knowing:  hunters  had  scarcely  recovered  from  one 
mortification  when  they  were  fated  to  experience  another.  As 
the  boat  w^as  gliding  swiftly  round  a  low  promontory,  thinly 
covered  with  trees,  one  of  them  gave  the  alarm  of  Indians. 
The  boat  was  instantly  shoved  from  shore  and  every  one 
ciinght  up  his  rifle.     "Where  are  they?"  cried  Wyeth. 

"  There  -  there !  riding  on  horseback!"  cried  one  of  the 
hunters. 

"Yes;  with  white  scarfs  on!"  cried  the  other. 

Wyeth  looked  in  the  direction  they  pointed,  but  descried 
nothing  but  two  bald  eagles,  perched  on  a  low  dry  branch 


ADVEyrURES  OF  CAPTAIX  BONNEVILLE.         253 

beyond  the  thickets,  and  sooming,  from  the  rapid  motion  of 
th3  boat,  to  bo  moving  swil'tly  in  an  opposite  direction.  The 
detection  of  this  blunder  in  the  two  veterans,  who  prided 
themselves  on  the  suroness  and  quickness  of  their  sight,  pro- 
duced a  hearty  laugh  at  their  expense,  and  put  an  end  to  their 
vauntings. 

The  Yellowstone,  above  the  confluence  of  the  Bighorn,  is  a' 
clear  stream ;  its  waters  were  now  gradually  growing  tiirbid, 
and  assuming  the  yellow  clay  color  of  the  Missouri.  The  cur- 
rent was  about  four  miles  an  hour,  with  occasional  rapids; 
some  of  them  dangerous,  but  the  voyagers  passed  them  all 
without  accident.  The  banks  of  the  river  were  in  many  places 
precipitous  wi*h  strata  of  bituminous  coal. 

They  now  entered  a  region  abounding  with  buffalo — that 
ever- journeying  animal,  which  moves  in  countless  droves  from 
point  to  point  of  the  vast  wilderness;  traversing  plains,  pour- 
ing through  the  intricate  defiles  of  mountains,  swimming 
rivers,  ever  on  the  nwve,  guided  on  its  boundless  migrations 
by  some  traditionary  knowledge,  like  the  finny  tribes  of  the 
ocean,  which,  at  certain  seasons,  find  their  mysterious  paths 
across  the  deep  and  revisit  the  remotest  shores. 

These  great  migratory  herds  of  buffalo  have  their  hereditary 
paths  and  highways,  worn  deep  through  the  country,  and 
making  for  tlie  surest  passes  of  the  mountains,  and  the  most 
practicable  fords  of  ItIio  rivers.  When  once  a  great  column 
is  in  full  career,  it  goes  straight  forward,  regardless  of  all 
obstacles;  those  in  front  being  impelled  by  t?he  mo^dng  mass 
behind.  At  such  times  they  will  break  through  a  camp, 
trampling  down  everything  in  their  course. 

It  w\as  the  lot  of  the  voyagei*s,  one  night,  to  encamp  at  one 
of  these  buffalo  landing  places,  and  exactly  on  the  trail.  They 
had  not  been  long  asleep,  when  they  were  awakened  by  a  great 
bellowing,  and  ti-amping,  and  the  rush,  and  splash,  and  snort- 
ing of  animals  in  tihe  river.  They  had  just  time  to  ascertain 
that  a  builald  army  was  entering  the  river  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  making  toward  the  landing  place.  With  all  haste  they 
moved  their  boat  and  shifted  their  camp,  by  which  time  the 
head  of  the  column  had  reached  the  shore,  and  came  pressing 
up  the  bank. 

It  was  a  singular  spectacle,  by  the  uncertain  moonlight,  to 
behold  this  countless  throng  making  their  way  across  the  river, 
blowing,  and  bellowing,  and  splashing.  Sometimes  they  pass 
in  such  dense  and  continuous  colunm  as  to  form  a  temporary 


2o4         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

(lam  ncross  tlio  river,  the  waters  of  which  rise  and  rush  over 
their  backs,  or  between  their  squadi-on;;.  The  roaring  and  rush 
ing  sound  of  one  of  these  vast  herds  crossing  a  river,  may 
sometimes  in  a  still  night  be  heard  for  miles. 

The  voyagers  now  had  game  in  profusion.  They  could  kill 
as  many  buffalo  as  they  pleased,  and,  occasionally,  were  wan- 
ton in  their  havoc;  especially  among  scattered  herds,  that 
came  swimming  near  the  boat.  On  one  occasion,  an  old  buffalo 
bull  appi'oached  so  near  that  the  half-breeds  must  fain  try  to 
noose  him  as  they  Avould  a  ^vild  horse.  The  noose  was  success- 
fully throAvn  around  his  head,  and  secured  him  by  the  horns, 
and  they  now  promised  themselves  ample  sport.  The  buffalo 
made  a  prodigious  turmoil  in  the  water,  bellowing,  and  blow- 
ing, and  floundering ;  and  they  all  floated  down  the  streaiii  to- 
gether. At  length  he  found  foothold  on  a  sandbar,  and  taking 
to  his  heels,  whirled  the  boat  after  him  like  a  whale  when  har- 
pooned ;  so  that  the  hunters  were  obliged  to  cast  off  their  rope, 
with  which  strange  head-gear  the  venerable  bull  made  off  to 
the  prairies. 

On  the  2ith  of  August,  the  bull  boat  emerged,  with  its 
adventurous  crew,  into  the  broad  bosom  of  the  mighty  Mis- 
souri. Here,  about  six  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, the  voyagers  landed  at  Fort  Union,  the  distributing  post 
of  the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  western  country.  It  was 
a  stockaded  fortress,  about  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
square,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  high  bank.  Here  they  were 
hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  the  superintendent, 
and  remained  with  him  three  days,  enjoying  the  unusual 
luxuries  of  bread,  butter,  milk,  and  cheese,  for  tiie  fort  was 
well  supplied  with  domestic  cattle,  though  it  had  no  garden. 
The  Ovtmosphere  of  these  elevated  regions  is  said  to  be  too 
dry  for  the  ciilture  of  vegetables;  yet  the  voyagers,  in  coming 
down  the  Yellowstone,  had  met  with  plums,  grapes,  cherries, 
and  currants,  and  had  observed  ash  and  elm  trees.  Where 
these  gTow  the  climate  cannot  be  incompatible  with  garden- 
ing. 

At  Fort  Union,  Wyeth  met  with  a  melancholy  memento  of 
one  of  his  men.  This  was  a  powder-flask,  which  a  clerk  had 
purchased  from  a  Blackfoot  warrior.  It  bore  the  initials  of 
poor  More,  the  unfortunate  youth  murdered  the  year  pre- 
viously, at  Jackson's  Hole,  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  whoso  bones 
had  been  subsequently  found  by  Captain  Bonneville.  This 
flask  had  either  been  passed  from  hand  to  hand  of  the  tribe, 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTALY  BOXNEVILLK         o;,5 

or,  perhaps,  had  been  brought  to  the  fort  by  the  very  savage 
who  slew  him. 

As  the  bull  boat  was  now  nearly  worn  out,  and  altogether 
unfit  for  the  broader  and  more  turbulent  stream  of  the  Mis- 
souri, it  was  given  up,  and  a  canoe  of  cotton-wood,  about 
twenty  feet  long,  fabricated  by  the  Blackfeet,  was  purchased 
to  supply  its  place.  In  this  Wyeth  hoisted  his  sail,  and  bid- 
ding adieu  to  the  hospitable  superintendent  of  Fort  Union, 
turned  his  prow  to  the  ejxst,  and  set  off  down  the  Missouri. 

Ho  had  not  proceeded  many  hours,  before,  in  the  evening,  he 
came  to  a  large  keel  boat  at  anchor.  It  proved  to  be  the  boat 
of  Captain  William  Sublette,  freighted  with  munitions  for  car- 
rying on  a  powerful  opposition  to  the  American  Fur  Company. 
The  voyagers  went  on  board,  where  they  were  treated  with 
the  hearty  hospitality  of  the  wilderness,  and  passed  a  social 
evening,  talking  over  past  scenes  and  adventures,  and  espec- 
ially the  memorable  fight  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

Here  Milton  Sublette  determined  to  give  up  further  voyag- 
ing in  the  canoe,  and  remain  witli  his  brother;  accordingly,  in 
the  morning,  the  fellow-voyagers  took  kind  leave  of  each  other, 
and  Wyeth  continued  on  his  course.  There  was  now  no  one 
on  board  of  his  boat  that  had  ever  voyaged  on  the  Missouri ;  it 
was,  however,  all  plain  sailing  down  the  stream,  without  any 
chance  of  missing  the  way. 

All  day  the  voyagers  pulled  gently  along,  and  landed  in  the 
evening  and  supped;  then  re-embarking,  they  suffered  the 
canoe  to  float  down  with  the  current ;  taking  turns  to  watch 
and  sleep.  The  night  was  calm  and  serene;  the  elk  kept  up  a 
continual  whinnying  or  squealing,  being  the  commencement  of 
the  season  when  they  are  in  heat.  In  the  midst  of  the  niglit 
the  canoe  struck  on  a  sand-bar,  and  all  hands  were  roused  by 
the  rush  and  roar  of  the  wild  waters,  which  broke  around  her. 
They  were  all  obliged  to  jump  overboard,  and  work  hard  to 
get  her  off,  wliich  was  accomplishiKl  with  much  difficulty. 

In  the  course  of  the  following  day  they  saw  three  grizzly 
bears  at  different  times  along  the  bank.  The  Inst  one  Avas  on 
a  point  of  land,  and  was  evidently  making  for  tlie  river,  to 
swim  across.  The  two  half  breed  hunters  were  now  ea!j;er  to 
repeat  the  manoeuvre  of  the  noose;  promising  to  entrap  Bi'uin, 
and  have  rare  sport  in  strangling:  and  drowninu;  him.  Tiieir 
only  fear  was,  that  he  might  take  fright  and  return  to  land 
before  they  coidd  get  between  him  and  tlie  shore.  Holding 
back,  therefore,  until  he  was  fairly  committed  in  the  centre  of 


256         ADVENTURES  Ob'  CaPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

the  stream,  they  then  pulled  forward  with  might  and  main,  so 
as  to  cut  off  his  retreat,  and  take  him  in  the  rear.  One  of  the 
wortliies  stationed  himself  in  the  bow,  with  the  cord  and  slip- 
noose,  the  other,  with  the  Ncz  Perce,  managed  the  paddles. 
There  was  nothing  further  from  the  thoughts  of  honest  Bruin, 
however,  than  to  beat  a  retreat.  Just  as  the  canoe  was  draw- 
ing near,  he  tin-ned  suddenly  round  and  made  for  it,  with  a 
horrible  snarl  and  a  tremendous  show  of  teeth.  The  affrighted 
hunter  called  to  his  comrades  to  paddle  off.  Scarce  had  they 
turned  the  boat  when  the  bear  laid  his  enormous  claws  on  the 
gunwale,  and  attempted  to  get  on  board.  The  canoe  Avas  nearly 
overtm-ned,  and  a  deluge  of  water  came  pouring  over  the  gun- 
wale. All  was  clamor,  terror,  and  confusion.  Every  one 
bawled  out — the  bear  roared  and  snarled — one  caught  up  a 
gun ;  but  water  had  i-endered  it  useless.  Others  handled  their 
paddles  more  effectually,  and  beating  old  Bruin  about  the  head 
and  claws,  obliged  him  to  rehnquish  his  hold.  They  now  plied 
their  paddles  with  might  and  main,  the  bear  made  the  best  of 
his  way  to  shore,  and  so  ended  the  second  exploit  of  the  noose ; 
the  hunters  determining  to  have  no  more  naval  contests  with 
grizzly  bears. 

The  voyagers  were  now  out  of  the  range  of  Crows  and  Black- 
feet  ;  but  they  were  approaching  the  country  of  the  Rees,  or 
Arickaras ;  a  tribe  no  less  dangerous ;  and  who  were,  generally, 
hostile  to  small  parties. 

In  passing  through  their  country,  Wyeth  laid  by  all  day, 
and  drifted  quietly  down  the  river  at  night.  In  this  way  he 
passed  on,  until  he  supposed  himself  safely  through  the  region 
of  danger;  when  he  resumed  his  voyaging  in  the  open  day. 
On  the  3d  of  September  ho  had  landed,  at  midday,  to  dine; 
and  while  some  were  making  a  fire,  one  of  the  hunters 
mounted  a  high  bank  to  look  out  for  game.  He  had  scarce  ■ 
glanced  his  eye  round,  when  he  perceived  horses  grazing  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Crouching  down  he  slunk  back 
to  the  camp,  and  reported  what  he  had  seen.  On  further 
reconnoitrmg,  the  voyagers  counted  twenty-one  lodges ;  and, 
from  the  number  of  horses,  computed  that  there  must  be 
nearly  a  hundred  Indians  encamped  there.  They  now  drew 
their  boat,  with  all  speed  and  caution,  into  a  thicket  of  water 
willov^^s,  and  remained  closely  concealed  all  day.  As  soon  as 
the  night  closed  in  they  re-embarked.  The  moon  would  rise 
early ;  so  that  they  had  but  about  two  hours  of  darkness  to  get 
past  the  camp.    The  night,  however,  was  cloudy,  with  a  blus- 


ADVE2iTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         2j7 

tering  vrind.  Silently,  and  -with  miiflled  oars,  they  glided  dowTi 
the  river,  keeping  close  under  the  shore  opposite  to  the  camp; 
"watching  its  various  lodges  and  fires,  and  the  dark  forms  ]iass- 
iug  to  and  fro  between  them.  Suddenly,  on  turning  a  point  of 
land,  they  found  themselves  close  upon  a  camp  on  their  own 
side  of  the  river.  It  appeared  that  not  more  than  one  half  of 
the  band  had  crossed.  They  were  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
shore ;  they  saw  distuictly  the  savages— some  standing,  some 
lymg  round  the  fire.  Horses  were  grazing  around.  Some 
lodges  wei'e  set  up,  othei's  had  been  sent  across  the  river.  The 
red  glare  of  the  fires  upon  these  wild  groups  and  harsh  faces, 
contrasted  with  the  surrounding  darkness,  had  a  startling 
effect,  as  the  voyagers  suddenly  came  upon  the  scene.  The 
dogs  of  the  camp  perceived  them,  and  barked ;  but  the  Indians, 
fortunately,  took  no  heed  of  their  clamor.  Wycth  mstantly 
sheered  his  boat  out  into  the  stream ;  when,  unluckily  it  struck 
upon  a  sand-bar,  and  stuck  fast.  It  was  a  perilous  and  trying 
situation ;  for  he  was  fixed  between  the  two  camps,  and  within 
rifle  range  of  both.  All  hands  jumped  out  into  the  water,  and 
tried  to  get  the  boat  off ;  but  as  no  one  dared  to  give  the  word, 
they  could  not  pull  together,  and  their  labor  was  in  vain.  In 
this  way  they  labored  for  a  long  time ;  imtil  Wyeth  thought  of 
giving  a  signal  for  a  general  heave,  by  lifting  his  hat.  The  ex- 
pedient succeeded.  They  launched  tlieir  canoe  again  into  deep 
water,  and  getting  in,  had  the  delight  of  seeing  the  camp  fires 
of  the  savages  soon  fading  in  the  distance. 

They  continued  under  way  the  gi'eater  part  of  the  night,  until 
far  bej'ond  all  danger  from  this  band,  when  they  pulled  to 
shore,  and  encamped. 

The  following  day  was  windy,  and  they  came  near  upsetting 
their  boat  in  Ciirrying  sail.  Toward  evening,  the  wind  subsid- 
ed and  a  beautiful  calm  night  succeeded.  They  floated  along 
with  the  current  throughout  the  niglit,  tiiking  turns  to  watch 
and  steer.  The  deep  stillness  of  the  night  v/o.'^  occasionally 
interrupted  by  the  neighing  of  the  elk,  the  lioarse  lowing  of 
the  buffalo,  the  hooting  of  large  owls,  and  the  screeching  of 
the  small  ones,  now  and  then  the  splash  of  a  beaver,  or  the 
gong-like  sound  of  the  swan. 

Part  of  their  voyage  Avas  extremely  tempestuous;  with  high 
winds,  tremendous  thunder,  and  soaking  rain;  and  they  were 
repeatedly  in  extreme  danger  from  drift-wood  and  sunken 
trees.  On  one  occasion,  having  continued  to  float  at  night, 
after  the  moon  was  down,  they  ran  under  a  gi-eat  snag,  or 


258        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

sunken  tree,  with  dry  branches  above  the  water.  These  caught 
the  mast,  while  the  boat  swung  round,  broadside  to  the  stream, 
and  began  to  fill  with  water.  Nothing  saved  her  from  total 
wreck,  but  cutting  away  the  mast.  She  then  drove  down  the 
stream,  but  left  one  of  the  unlucky  half-breeds  clinging  to  the 
snag,  like  a  monkey  to  a  pole.  It  was  necessary  to  run  in 
shore,  toil  up,  laboriously,  along  the  eddies  and  to  attain  some 
distance  above  the  snag,  when  they  launched  forth  again  into 
the  stream,  and  floated  down  with  it  to  his  rescue. 

We  forbear  to  detail  aU  the  circumstances  and  adventures  of 
upward  of  a  month's  voyage,  down  the  windings  and  doublings 
of  this  vast  river ;  in  the  course  of  which  they  stopped  occa- 
sionally at  a  post  of  one  of  the  rival  fur  companies,  or  at  a 
government  agency  for  an  Indian  tribe.  Neither  shall  we 
dwell  upon  the  changes  of  chmate  and  productions,  as  the 
voyagers  swept  down  from  north  to  south,  across  several  de- 
grees of  latitude;  arriving  at  the  regions  of  oaks  and  syca- 
mores ;  of  mulberry  and  basswood  trees ;  of  paroquets  and  wild 
turkeys.  This  is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  the  iniddle  and 
lower  part  of  the  Missouri ;  but  still  more  so  of  the  Mississippi, 
whose  rapid  current  traverses  a  sviccession  of  latitudes  so  as  in 
a  few  days  to  float  the  voyager  almost  from  the  frozen  regions 
to  the  tropics. 

The  voyage  of  Wyeth  shows  the  regular  and  unobstructed 
flow  of  the  rivers,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in 
contrast  to  those  of  the  western  side ;  where  rocks  and  rapids 
continually  menace  and  obstruct  the  voyager.  We  find  him 
in  a  frail  bark  of  skins,  launching  himself  in  a  stream  at  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  floating  down  from  river  to 
river,  as  they  empty  themselves  into  each  other;  and  so  he 
might  have  kept  on  upward  of  two  thousand  miles,  until  his 
little  bark  should  drift  into  the  ocean.  At  present  we  shall 
stop  with  him  at  Cantonment  Leavenworth,  the  frontier  post 
of  the  United  States ;  where  he  arrived  on  the  27th  of  Septem- 
ber. 

Here  his  first  care  was  to  have  his  Nez  Perce  Indian,  and  his 
half-breed  boy,  Baptiste,  vaccinated.  As  they  approached  the 
fort,  they  were  hailed  by  the  sentinel.  The  sight  of  a  soldier 
in  fuU  array,  with  what  appeared  to  be  a  long  knife  glittering 
on  the  end  of  a  musket,  struck  Baptiste  with  such  affright  that 
he  took  to  his  heels,  bawhng  for  mercy  at  the  top  of  his  voice. 
The  Nez  Perce  would  have  followed  him,  had  not  Wyeth  as- 
sured him  of  his  safety.    When  they  underwent  the  operation 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         259 

of  the  lancet,  the  doctor's  wife  and  another  lady  were  present ; 
both  beautiful  women.  They  were  the  first  white  women  that 
they  had  seen,  and  tliey  could  not  keep  their  eyes  off  of  them. 
On  returning  to  the  boat,  they  recounted  to  their  companions 
all  that  they  had  observed  at  the  fort ;  but  were  especially  elo- 
quent about  the  white  squaws,  who,  they  said,  were  white  as 
snow,  and  more  beautiful  than  any  hmnan  being  they  had  ever 
beheld. 

We  shall  not  accompany  the  captain  any  further  in  his  voy- 
age; but  Av ill  simply  state  that  he  made  liis  way  to  Boston, 
where  he  succeeded  in  organizing  an  association  under  the 
name  of  "  The  Columbia  River  Fishing  and  Trading  Company," 
for  his  original  objects  of  a  salmon  fishery  and  a  trade  in  furs. 
A  brig,  the  May  Dacres,  had  been  dispatched  for  the  Columbia 
with  supplies ;  and  he  was  now  on  his  way  to  the  same  point, 
at  the  head  of  sixty  men,  whom  he  had  enhsted  at  St.  Louis ; 
some  of  whom  were  experienced  hunters,  and  all  more  habitu- 
ated to  the  life  of  the  wilderness  than  his  first  band  of  "  down- 
easters. " 

We  will  now  return  to  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party, 
whom  we  left,  making  up  their  packs  and  saddling  their  horses, 
in  Bear  River  valley. 


CHAPTER  XLn. 

DEPARTURE  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  FOR  THE  COLUMBIA— AD- 
VANCE OF  WYETII— EFFORTS  TO  KEEP  THE  LEAD— HUDSON'S 
BAY  PARTY — A  JUNKETING — A  DELECTABLE  BEVERAGE— HONEY 
AND  ALCOHOL— HIGH  CAROUSING — THE  CANADIAN  "BON  VI- 
VANT"— A  CACHE— A  RAPID  MOVE— WYETII  AND  HIS  PLANS— 
HIS  TRAVELLING  COMPANIONS— BUFFALO  HUNTING— MORE  CON- 
VIVIALITY—AN INTERRUPTION. 

It  was  the  3d  of  July  that  Captain  Bonneville  set  out  on  his 
second  visit  to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  at  the  head  of 
twenty-three  men.  He  travelled  leisurely,  to  keep  his  hoi-ses 
fresh,  until  on  the  10th  of  July  a  scout  brought  word  that 
Wyeth,  with  his  band,  was  but  fifty  miles  in  the  rear,  and 
pushing  forward  with  all  speed.  This  caused  some  bustle  in 
the  camp ;  for  it  was  important  to  get  first  to  the  buffalo  ground 


260         ADVKyTVliES   OF  CAl'TMN  BOAAhTlLLK 

to  secure  provisions  for  the  journey.  As  the  horses  were  too 
heavily  laden  to  travel  fast,  a  cache  was  digged,  as  promptly 
as  possible,  to  receive  all  superfluous  baggage.  Just  as  it  was 
finished,  a  spring  burst  out  of  the  earth  at  the  bottoui.  Another 
cache  was  tlaerefore  digged,  about  two  miles  further  on;  when, 
as  they  were  about  to  bury  the  effects,  a  line  of  horsemen  with 
pack-horses,  were  seen  streaking  over  the  plain,  and  encamped 
close  by. 

It  proved  to  be  a  small  band  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  under  the  command  of  a  veteran  Canadian; 
one  of  those  petty  leaders,  who,  with  a  small  party  of  men,  and 
a  small  supply  of  goods,  are  employed  to  follow  up  a  band  of 
Indians  from  one  himting  ground  to  another,  and  buy  up  their 
peltries. 

Having  received  numerous  civilities  from  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  the  captain  sent  an  invitation  to  the  officers  of  the 
party  to  an  evening  regale ;  and  set  to  work  to  make  jovial 
preparations.  As  the  night  air  in  these  elevated  regions  is  apt 
to  be  cold,  a  blazing  fire  was  soon  made,  that  would  have  done 
credit  to  a  Christmas  dinner,  instead  of  a  midsummer  banquet. 
The  parties  met  in  high  good-fellowship.  There  was  abundance 
of  such  hunters'  fare  as  the  neighborhood  furnished ;  and  it  was 
all  discussed  with  mountain  appetites.  They  talked  over  all 
the  events  of  their  late  campaigns;  but  the  Canadian  veteran 
had  been  unlucky  in  some  of  his  transactions ;  and  his  brow 
began  to  grow  cloudy.  Captain  Bonneville  remarked  his  rising 
spleen,  and  regretted  that  he  had  no  juice  of  the  grape  to  keep 
it  down. 

A  man's  ^\at,  however,  is  quick  and  inventive  in  the  wilder- 
ness; a  thought  suggested  itself  to  the  captain,  how  he  might 
brew  a  delectable  beverage.  Among  his  stores  was  a  keg  of 
honey  but  half  exhausted.  This  ho  filled  up  with  alcohol,  and 
stirred  the  fiery  and  mollifluous  ingredients  together.  The 
glorious  results  may  readUy  be  imagined ;  a  happy  compound 
of  strength  and  sweetness,  enough  to  soothe  the  most  ruffled 
temper  and  unsettle  the  most  solid  understanding. 

The  beverage  worked  to  a  charm ;  the  can  circulated  merrily ; 
the  first  deep  draught  washed  out  every  care  from  tlie  mind  of 
the  veteran;  the  second  elevated  his  spirit  to  the  clouds.  He 
was,  in  fact,  a  boon  companion ;  as  all  veteran  Canadian  traders 
are  apt  to  be.  He  now  became  glorious ;  talked  over  all  his  ex- 
ploits, bis  huntings,  his  fightings  with  Indian  braves,  his  loves 
with  Indian  beauties ;  sang  snatches  of  old  French  ditties,  and 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         2G1 

Canadian  boat  songs ;  drank  deeper  and  deeper,  sang  louder 
and  louder;  until,  having  reached  aclmiax  of  drunken  gayety, 
he  gradually  declined,  and  at  length  fell  fast  asleep  upon  the 
ground.  After  a  long  nap  he  again  raised  his  head,  iuiLibod 
another  potation  of  the  "sweet  and  strong,"  flashed  up  with 
another  slight  blaze  of  French  gayety,  and  again  fell  asleep. 

The  morning  found  him  still  ujion  the  field  of  action,  but  in 
sad  and  sorrowful  condition;  suffering  the  penalties  of  past 
pleasures,  and  calling  to  mind  the  captain's  dulcet  compound, 
with  many  a  retch  and  spasm.  It  seemed  as  if  the  honey  and 
alcohol,  which  had  passed  so  glibly  and  smoothly  over  his 
tongue,  were  at  war  within  his  stomach;  and  that  he  had  a 
swarm  of  bees  within  his  head.  In  short,  so  helpless  and  woe- 
begone was  his  plight,  that  his  party  proceeded  on  their  march 
without  him ;  the  captain  promising  to  bring  him  on  in  safety 
in  the  after  part  of  the  day. 

As  soon  as  this  party  had  moved  off,  Captain  Bonneville's 
men  proceeded  to  construct  and  fill  their  cache;  and  just  as  it 
was  completed  the  party  of  Wyoth  was  descried  at  a  distance. 
In  a  moment  all  was  activity  to  take  the  road.  The  horses 
were  prepared  and  mounted;  and  being  lightened  of  a  great 
part  of  their  burdens,  were  able  to  move  with  celerity.  As  to 
the  worthy  convive  of  the  preceding  evening,  he  was  carefully 
gathered  up  from  the  hunter's  couch  on  which  he  lay,  re- 
pentant and  supine,  and,  being  packed  upon  one  of  the  horses, 
was  hurried  forward  with  the  convoy,  groaning  and  ejaculat- 
ing at  every  jolt. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  Wyeth,  being  lightly  mounted, 
rode  ahead  of  his  party,  and  overtook  Captain  Bonneville. 
Their  meeting  was  friendly  and  courteous;  and  they  discussed, 
sociably,  their  respective  fortunes  since  they  separated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Bighorn.  Wyeth  announced  his  intention  of 
establishing  a  small  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Port- 
neuf,  and  leaving  a  few  men  there,  with  a  quantity  of  goods, 
to  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indians.  He  was  compelled,  in 
fact,  to  this  measure,  in  consc(iuence  of  the  refusal  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  to  take  a  supply  of  goods 
which  he  had  brought  out  for  them  according  to  contract;  and 
wliich  he  had  no  other  mode  of  disposing  of.  He  further  in- 
formed Captain  Bonneville  that  the  competition  between  the 
Rocky  Mountain  and  American  Fur  Companies  which  had 
led  to  such  nefai*ious  stratagems  and  deadly  feuds,  was  at  nn 
end;  they  having  divided  the  country  bet.veen  them,  allotting 


202       ADVENT  LUES  OF  VAi'TAis  nu^yp:viLLE. 

boundaries  within  which  each  was  to  trade  and  hunt,  so  as 
not  to  interfei-e  with  the  other. 

In  company  with  Wyeth  were  travelling  two  men  of  science; 
Mr.  Nuttall,  the  botanist;  the  same  who  ascended  the  Mis- 
souri at  the  time  of  the  expedition  to  Astoria;  and  ]\Ir.  Town- 
shcnd,  an  ornithologist;  from  these  gentlemen  we  may  look 
forward  to  important  information  concerning  these  interest- 
ing regions.  There  were  three  religious  missionaries,  also, 
bound  to  the  shores  of  the  Columbia,  to  spread  the  light  ot 
the  Gospel  in  that  far  wilderness. 

After  i-iding  for  some  time  together,  in  friendly  conversa- 
tion, Wyeth  returned  to  his  party,  and  Captain  Bonneville 
continued  to  press  forward,  and  to  gain  ground.  At  night  he 
sent  off  the  sadly  sober  and  moralizing  chief  of  tlie  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  urxder  a  proper  escort,  to  rejoin  liis  people; 
his  route  brandling  off  in  a  different  direction.  The  latter 
took  a  cordial  leave  of  his  host,  hoping,  on  some  future  occa- 
sion, to  repay  his  hospitality  in  kind. 

In  the  morning  the  captain  was  early  on  the  march ;  throw- 
ing scouts  out  far  ahead,  to  scour  hiU  and  dale,  in  search  of 
buffalo.  He  had  confidently  expected  to  find  game,  in  abun- 
dance, on  the  head-waters  of  the  Portneuf ;  but  on  reaching 
that  region,  not  a  track  was  to  be  seen. 

At  length,  one  of  the  scouts,  who  had  made  a  wide  sweep 
away  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Blackfoot  River,  discovered 
great  herds  quietly  grazing  in  the  adjacent  meadows.  He  set 
out  on  his  return,  to  report  his  discoveries ;  but  night  over- 
taking him,  he  was  kindly  and  hospitably  entertained  at  the 
camp  ol:  Wyeth.  As  soon  as  day  dawmed  he  hastened  to  his 
ownr  camp  with  the  welcome  intelligence ;  and  about  ten  o'clock 
of  the  same  morning,  Captain  Bonneville's  party  w^ere  in  the 
midst  of  the  game. 

The  packs  were  scarcely  off  the  backs  of  the  mules,  when 
the  runners,  mounted  on  the  fleetest  horses,  were  full  tilt 
after  the  buffalo.  Others  of  the  men  were  busied  erecting 
scaffolds,  and  other  contrivances,  for  jerking  or  drying  meat-, 
others  were  lighting  great  fires  for  the  same  purpose;  soon  the 
hvmters  began  to  make  their  appearance,  bringing  in  the 
choicest  morsels  of  buffalo  meat ;  these  were  placed  upon  the 
scaffolds,  and  the  whole  camp  presented  a  scene  of  singular 
hurry  and  activity.  At  daylight  the  next  morning,  the  run- 
ners again  took  the  field,  with  similar  success ;  and.  after  an  in- 
terval of  repose  made  their  third  and  last  chase,  about  twelve 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         2G3 

o'clock ;  for  by  this  time,  Wyeth's  party  was  in  sight.  The 
game  being  now  driven  into  a  valley,  at  some  distance,  Wyeth 
was  obliged  to  fix  his  camp  there;  but  he  came  in  the  evening 
to  pay  Captain  Bonneville  a  visit.  He  was  accompanied  by 
Captain  Stewart,  the  amateur  traveller;  who  had  not  yet  sated 
his  appetite  for  the  adventurous  life  of  the  wilderness.  With 
him,  also,  was  a  Mr.  M'Kay,  a  half-breed;  son  of  the  vm for- 
tunate adventurer  of  the  same  name  who  came  out  in  the  first 
maritime  expedition  to  Astoria  and  was  blown  up  in  the  Ton- 
quin.  His  sou  had  grown  up  in  the  employ  of  the  British  fur 
companies ;  and  was  a  prime  hunter,  and  a  daring  partisan. 
He  held,  moreover,  a  farm  in  the  valley  of  the  Wallamut. 

The  three  visitoi's,  when  they  reached  Captain  Bonneville's 
camp,  were  surprised  to  find  no  one  in  it  but  himself  and  three 
men ;  his  party  being  dispersed  in  all  directions,  to  make  the 
most  of  their  present  chance  for  hunting.  They  remonstrated 
with  him  on  the  imprudence  of  remaining  with  so  trifling  a 
guard  in  a  region  co  full  of  danger.  Captain  Bonneville  vuidi- 
catcd  the  policy  of  liis  conduct.  He  never  hesitated  to  send 
out  all  his  hunters,  when  any  important  object  was  to  be  at- 
tained ;  and  experience  had  taught  him  that  he  was  most  secure 
when  liis  forces  were  thus  distributed  over  the  surrounding 
country.  He  then  was  sure  that  no  enemy  could  approach, 
from  any  direction,  without  being  discovered  by  liis  hunters ; 
who  have  a  quick  eye  for  detecting  the  slightest  signs  of  the 
proximity  of  Indians ;  and  who  would  instantly  convey  intelli- 
gence to  the  camp. 

The  captain  now  set  to  work  with  his  men,  to  prepare  a  suit- 
able entertainment  for  his  guests.  It  was  a  time  of  plenty  in 
the  camp;  of  prime  hunters'  dainties;  of  bufialo  humps,  and 
buffalo  tvtngues;  and  roasted  ribs,  and  broiled  marrow-bones: 
all  these  were  cooked  in  hunters'  style ;  served  up  with  a  pi"o- 
fusion  known  only  on  a  plentiful  hunting  ground,  and  discussed 
with  an  appetite  that  would  astonish  the  punj^  gourmands  of 
the  cities.  But  above  all,  and  to  give  a  bacchanalian  grace  to 
this  tridy  masculine  repast,  the  captain  produced  his  mellifluous 
keg  of  home-bi*ewcd  nectar,  which  had  been  so  potent  over  the 
senses  of  the  veteran  of  Hudson's  Bay.  Potations,  pottle  deep, 
again  went  round ;  never  did  beverage  excite  greater  glee,  or 
meet  \y\\\\  more  rapturous  commendation.  The  parties  were 
fast  advancing  to  that  happy  state  which  would  have  insured 
ample  cause  for  the  next  day's  repentance;  and  the  bees  were 
already  beginning  to  buzz  about  their  ears,  when  a  messenger 


264         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

came  spurring  to  the  camp  with  intelligence  that  Wyeth's  peo- 
ple had  got  entangled  in  one  of  those  deep  and  frightful  ravines, 
piled  with  immense  fragments  of  volcanic  rock,  which  gash  the 
whole  country  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Blackfoot  Eiver. 
The  revel  was  instantly  at  an  end ;  the  keg  of  sweet  and  potent 
home-brewed  was  deserted ;  and  the  guests  departed  with  all 
speed  to  aid  in  extricating  their  companions  from  the  volcanic 
ravine. 


CHAPTER  XLin. 

A  RAPID  MARCH— A  CLOUD  OP  DUST — WILD  HORSEMEN — "  HIGH 
jinks" — HORSE-RACING  AND  RIFLE-SHOOTING — THE  GAME  OF 
HAND— THE  FISHING  SEASON — MODE  OF  FISHING— TABLE  LANDS 
—SALMON  FISHERS— THE  CAPTAIN'S  VISIT  TO  AN  INDIAN  LODGE 
—THE  INDIAN  GIRL — THE  POCKET  MIRROR— SUPPER— TROUBLES 
OF  AN  EVIL  CONSCIENCE. 

"Up  and  away!"  is  the  first  thought  at  dayMght  of  the  In- 
dian trader,  when  a  rival  is  at  hand  and  distance  is  to  be  gained. 
Early  in  the  morning,  Captain  Bonneville  ordered  the  half 
dried  meat  to  be  packed  upon  the  horses,  and  leaving  Wyeth 
and  his  party  to  hunt  the  scattered  buffalo,  pushed  off  rapidly 
to  the  east,  to  regain  the  plain  of  the  Portneuf.  His  march 
was  rugged  and  dangerous ;  through  volcanic  hills,  broken  inxo 
cliffs  and  precipices;  and  seamed  with  tremendous  chasms, 
where  the  rocks  rose  hke  walls. 

On  the  second  day,  however,  he  encamped  once  more  in  the 
plain,  and  as  it  was  still  early  some  of  the  men  strolled  out  to 
the  neighboring  hills.  In  casting  their  eyes  round  the  country, 
they  perceived  a  great  cloud  of  dust  rising  in  the  south,  and 
evidently  approaching.  Hastening  back  to  the  camp,  they 
gave  the  alarm.  Preparations  were  instantly  made  to  receive 
an  enemy ;  while  some  of  the  men,  throwing  themselves  upon 
the  "  running  horses"  kept  for  hunting,  galloped  off  to  recon- 
noitre. In  a  little  while,  they  made  signals  from  a  distance 
that  all  was  friendly.  By  this  time  the  cloud  of  dust  had  swept 
on  as  ff  hurried  along  by  a  blast,  and  a  band  of  wild  horsemen 
came  dashing  at  full  leap  into  the  camp,  yelling  and  whooping 
like  so  many  maniacs.  Their  dresses,  their  accoutrements, 
their  mode  of  riding,  and  their  uncouth  clamor^  made  them 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         965 

seem  a  party  of  savages  arrayed  for  war;  but  they  proved 
to  be  principally  half-breeds,  and  white  men  grown  savage  in 
the  wilderness,  wlio  wei"e  employed  as  trappers  and  hunters  in 
the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Here  w^as  again  "high  jinks"  in  the  camp.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville's men  hailed  these  wild  scamperers  as  congenial  spirits,  or 
rather  as  the  very  game  birds  of  their  class.  They  entertained 
them  with  the  hospitality  of  mountaineers,  feasting  them  at 
every  fire.  At  first,  there  were  mutual  details  of  adventures 
and  exploits,  and  broad  joking  mingled  with  peals  of  laughter. 
Then  came  on  boasting  of  the  (Comparative  merits  of  horses  and 
rifles,  which  soon  engrossed  every  tongue.  Thi-s  naturally  led 
to  racing,  and  shooting  at  a  mark ;  one  trial  qf  speed  and  skill 
succeeded  another,  shouts  and  acclamations  rose  from  the  \dc- 
torious  parties,  fierce  altercations  succeeded,  and  a  general  me- 
lee was  about  to  take  place,  when  suddenly  the  attention  of  the 
quarrellers  was  arrested  by  a  strange  kind  of  Indian  chant  or 
chorus,  that  seemed  to  operate  upon  them  as  a  charm.  Their 
fury  Avas  at  an  end ;  a  tacit  reconciliation  succeeded,  and  the 
ideas  of  the  whole  mongrel  crowd— whites,  half-breeds,  and 
squaws — were  turned  in  a  new  direction.  They  all  formed  into 
groups,  and  taking  their  places  at  the  several  fires,  prepared 
for  one  of  the  most  exciting  amusements  of  the  Nez  Perces  and 
the  other  tribes  of  the  Far  West. 

The  choral  chant,  in  fact,  which  had  thus  acted  as  a  chann, 
was  a  kind  of  wild  accompaniment  to  the  favorite  Indian  game 
of  "Hand."  This  is  played  by  tAvo  parties  drawn  out  in  oppo- 
site platoons  before  a  blazing  fire.  It  is  in  some  respects  like 
the  old  game  of  passing  the  ring  or  the  button,  and  detectmg 
the  hand  which  holds  it.  In  the  present  game,  the  object  hid- 
den, or  the  cache  as  it  is  called  by  the  trappers,  is  a  small  splint 
of  wood,  or  other  diminutive  article,  that  may  be  concealed  in 
I  the  closed  hand.  This  is  passed  backward  and  forw^ard  among 
the  party  "in  hand,"  while  the  party  "out  of  hand"  guess 
where  it  is  concealed.  To  heighten  the  excitement  and  confuse 
the  guessers,  a  number  of  dry  poles  are  laid  before  each  pla- 
toon, upon  which  the  members  of  the  party  "in  hand  "beat 
furiously  w-ith  short  staves,  keeping  time  to  the  choral  chant 
already  mentioned,  which  Avaxes  fast  and  furious  as  the  game 
proceeds.  As  large  bets  are  staked  upon  the  game,  the  excite- 
ment is  prodigious.  Each  party  in  turn  bursts  out  in  fiUl  cho- 
rus, beating,  and  yeUing,  and  working  themselves  up  into  such 
a  heat  that  the  perspiration  rolls  doAvn  their  naked  shoulders, 


266  ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

even  in  the  cold  of  a  winter  night.  The  bets  are  doubled  and 
trebled  as  the  game  advances,  the  mental  excitement  increases 
almost  to  madness,  and  all  the  worldly  effects  of  the  gamblers 
are  often  hazarded  upon  the  position  of  a  straw. 

These  gambling  games  were  kept  up  throughout  the  night ; 
every  fire  glared  upon  a  group  that  looked  like  a  crew  of 
maniacs  at  their  frantic  orgies,  and  the  scene  would  have  been 
kept  up  throughout  the  succeeding  day,  had  not  Captain  Bonne- 
ville interposed  his  authority,  and,  at  the  usual  hour,  issued 
his  marching  orders. 

Proceeding  down  the  course  of  Snake  Eiver,  the  hunters 
regularly  returned  to  camp  in  the  evening  laden  with  wild 
geese,  which  were  yet  scarcely  able  to  fly,  and  were  easily 
caught  in  great  numbers.  It  was  now  the  season  of  the  annual 
fish-feast,  with  which  the  Indians  in  these  parts  celebrate  the 
first  appearance  of  the  salmon  in  this  river.  These  fish  are 
taken  in  great  numbers  at  the  numerous  falls  of  about  four  feet 
pitch.  The  Indians  flank  the  shallow  water  just  below,  and 
spear  them  as  they  attempt  to  pass.  In  wide  parts  of  the  river, 
also,  they  place  a  sort  of  chevaux-de-frize,  or  fence,  of  poles  in- 
terwoven with  withes,  and  forming  an  angle  in  the  middle  of 
the  current,  where  a  small  opening  is  left  for  the  salmon  to 
pass.  Around  this  opening  the  Indians  station  themselves  on 
small  rafts,  and  ply  their  spears  with  great  success. 

The  table  lands  so  common  in  this  region  have  a  sandy  soU, 
inconsiderable  in  depth,  and  covered  with  sage,  or  more  prop- 
erly speaking,  wormwood.  Below  this  is  a  level  stratum  of 
rock,  riven  occasionally  by  frightful  chasms.  The  whole  plain 
rises  as  it  approaches  the  river,  and  terminates  with  high  and 
broken  cliffs,  difficult  to  pass,  and  in  many  places  so  precipitous 
that  it  is  impossible,  for  days  together,  to  get  down  to  the 
water's  edge,  to  give  drink  to  the  horses.  This  obliges  the 
traveller  occasionally  to  abandon  the  vicinity  of  the  river,  and 
make  a  wide  sweep  into  the  interior. 

It  was  now  far  in  the  month  of  July,  and  the  party  suffered 
extremely  from  sultry  weather  and  dusty  travelling.  The  flies 
and  gnats,  too,  were  extremely  troublesome  to  the  horses; 
especially  when  keeping  along  the  edge  of  the  river  where  it 
runs  between  low  sand-banks.  Whenever  the  travellers  en- 
camped in  the  afternoon,  the  horses  retired  to  the  gravelly 
shores  and  remained  there,  without  attempting  to  feed  until 
the  cool  of  the  evening.  As  to  the  travellers,  they  plunged 
into  the  clear  and  cool  current,  to  wash  away  the  dust  of  the 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         267 

road  and  refi-esh  themselves  after  the  heat  of  the  day.  The 
nights  were  always  cool  and  pleasant. 

At  one  place  where  they  encamped  for  some  time,  the  river 
was  nearly  five  hundred  yards  wide,  and  studded  with  grassy 
islands,  adorned  with  groves  of  willow  and  cotton-wood.  Hero 
the  Indians  were  assembled  in  great  numbers,  and  had  barri- 
caded the  channels  between  the  islands,  to  enable  them  to 
spear  the  salmon  with  greater  facility.  They  were  a  timid 
race,  and  seemed  unaccustomed  to  the  sight  of  white  men. 
Entering  one  of  the  huts.  Captain  Bonne\alle  found  the  inhab- 
itants just  proceeding  to  cook  a  fine  salmon.  It  is  put  into  a 
pot  filled  with  cold  water,  and  hung  over  the  fire.  The 
moment  the  water  begins  to  boil,  the  fish  is  considered  cooked. 

Taking  his  seat  unceremoniously,  and  lighting  his  pipe,  the 
captain  awaited  the  cooking  of  the  fish,  intending  to  invite 
himself  to  the  repast.  The  owner  of  the  hut  seemed  to  take 
his  intrusion  in  good  part.  While  conversing  with  him  the 
captain  felt  something  move  behind  him,  and  turning  round 
and  removing  a  few  skins  and  old  buffalo  robes,  discovered  a 
young  girl,  about  fourteen  years  of  age,  crouched  beneath,  who 
directed  her  large  black  eyes  full  in  his  face,  and  continued  to 
gaze  in  mute  surprise  and  terror.  The  captain  endeavored  to 
dispel  her  fears,  and  drawing  a  bright  ribbon  from  his  pocket, 
attempted  repeatedly  to  tie  it  round  her  neck.  She  jerked 
back  at  each  attempt,  uttering  a  sound  very  much  like  a  snarl ; 
nor  could  all  the  blandishments  of  tlie  captain,  albeit  a  pleas- 
ant, good-looking,  and  somewhat  gallant  man,  succeed  in  con- 
quering the  shyness  of  the  savage  little  beaut}'.  His  attentions 
were  now  turned  toward  the  parents,  whom  he  presented  Avith 
an  awl  and  a  little  tobacco,  and  having  thus  secured  their 
good-will,  continued  to  smoke  his  pipe  and  Avatch  the  salmon. 
While  thus  seated  near  the  threshold,  an  urchin  of  the  family 
approached  the  door,  but  catching  a  sight  of  the  strange  guest, 
ran  off  screaming  with  terror  and  ensconced  liimself  behind 
the  long  straw  at  the  back  of  the  hut. 

Desirous  to  dispel  entirely  this  timidity,  and  to  open  a  trade 
with  the  simple  inhabitants  of  the  hut,  who,  he  did  not  doubt, 
had  furs  somewhere  concealed,  the  captain  noAv  drew  forth 
that  grand  lure  in  the  eyes  of  a  savage,  a  pocket  mirror.  The 
sight  of  it  was  irresistible.  After  examining  it  for  a  long 
time  with  wonder  and  admiration,  they  produced  a  musk-rat 
skin,  and  offered  it  in  exchange.  The  captain  shook  his  head ; 
but  purchased  the  skin  for  a  couple  of  buttons — superfluous 


268         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

trinkets !  as  the  -worthy  lord  of  the  hovel  had  neither  coat  nor 
breeches  on  wliich  to  place  them. 

The  mirror  still  continued  the  great  object  of  desii'e,  particu- 
larly in  the  eyes  of  the  old  housewife,  who  produced  a  pot  of 
parched  flour  and  a  string  of  biscuit  roots.  These  procured 
her  some  trifle  in  return ;  but  could  not  command  the  purchase 
of  the  mirror.  The  salmon  being  now  completely  cooked,  they 
all  joined  heartily  in  supper.  A.  bounteous  portion  was  depos- 
ited before  the  captain  by  the  old  woman,  upon  some  fresh 
gTass,  which  served  instead  of  a  platter;  and  never  had  he 
tasted  a  salmon  boiled,so  completely  to  his  fancy. 

Sapper  being  over,  the  captain  hghted  his  pipe  and  passed  it 
to  his  host,  who,  inhaling  the  smoke,  puffed  it  through  his 
nostrils  so  assiduously,  that  in  a  little  while  his  head  mani- 
fested signs  of  confusion  and  dizziness.  Being  satisfied,  by 
tliis  time,  of  the  kindly  and  companionable  qualities  of  the 
captain,  he  became  easy  and  communicative;  and  at  length 
hinted  something  about  exchanging  beaver  skins  for  horses. 
The  captain  at  once  offered  to  dispose  of  his  steed,  which  stood 
fastened  at  the  door.  The  bargain  was  soon  concluded,  where- 
upon the  Indian,  removing  a  pile  of  bushes  under  which  his 
valuables  were  concealed,  drew  forth  the  number  of  skins 
agreed  upon  as  the  price. 

Shortly  afterv/ard,  some  of  the  captain's  people  coming  up, 
he  ordered  another  hoi"se  to  be  saddled,  and,  mounting  it,  took 
his  departure  from  the  hut,  after  distributing  a  few  trifling 
presents  among  its  sunple  inhabitants.  During  all  the  time  of 
his  visit,  the  httle  Indian  girl  had  kept  her  large  black  eyes 
fixed  upon  him,  almost  without  winking,  watcliing  every 
movement  with  awe  and  wonder;  and  as  he  rode  off,  remained 
gazing  after  him,  motionless  as  a  statue.  Her  father,  however, 
delighted  with  his  new  acquaintance,  mounted  his  newly  pur- 
chased horse,  and  followed  in  the  train  of  the  captain,  to  whom 
he  contimied  to  be  a  faithful  and  useful  adherent  during  his 
sojourn  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  cowardly  effects  of  an  evil  conscience  were  evidenced  in 
the  conduct  of  one  of  the  captain's  men,  who  had  been  in  the 
Calrfornian  expedition.  During  all  their  intercourse  with  the 
harmless  people  of  this  place,  he  had  manifested  uneasiness 
and  anxiety.  While  his  companions  mingled  freely  and  joy- 
ously with  the  natives,  he  went  about  with  a  restless,  sus- 
picious look;  scrutinizirur  every  painted  form  and  face  and 
starting  often  at  the  suddeii  approach  of  some  meek  and  in- 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNKVILLE.         2G9 

offensive  savage,  who  regarded  him  with  reverence  as  a  supe- 
rior being.  Yet  this  was  ordinai'ily  a  bold  fellow,  who  never 
flinched  ironi  danger,  nor  turned  pale  at  the  prospect  of  a  bat- 
tle. At  length  he  requested  permission  of  Captain  Bonneville 
to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  these  people  entirely.  Their  strik- 
ing resemblance,  he  said,  to  the  people  or  Ogden's  Eiver,  made 
him  continually  fear  that  some  among  them  might  have 
seen  hun  in  that  expedition;  and  might  seek  an  oppor- 
tunity of  revenge.  Ever  after  this,  while  they  remained 
in  this  neighborhood,  he  would  skulk  out  of  the  way  and 
keep  aloof  when  any  of  the  native  inhabitants  approached. 
"Such,"  observes  Captain  Bonneville,  "is  the  effect  of  self- 
reproach,  even  upon  the  roving  trapi^er  in  the  wilderness,  who 
has  little  else  to  fear  than  the  stings  of  his  OAvn  guilty  con- 
science." 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

OUTFIT  OP  A  TRAPPER — RISKS  TO  WHICH  HE  IS  SUBJECTED — 
PARTNERSHIP  OF  TRAPPERS— ENMITY  OF  INDIANS  —  DISTANT 
SMOKE — A  COUNTRY  ON  FIRE — GUN  CREEK — GRAND  ROND— FINE] 
PASTURES— PERPLEXITIES  IN  A  SMOKY  COUNTRY— CONFLAGRA- 
TION OF  FORESTS. 

It  had  been  the  intention  of  Captain  Bonneville,  in  descend- 
ing along  Snake  River,  to  scatter  his  trappers  upon  the  smaller 
streams.  In  this  way  a  range  of  country -is  trapped  hj  small 
detachments  from  a  main  body.  The  outfit  of  a  trapper  is 
generally  a  rifle,  a  pound  of  powder,  and  four  pounds  of  lead, 
with  a  bullet  mould,  seven  traps,  an  axe,  a  hatchet,  a  knifo 
and  awl,  a  camp  kettle,  tAvo  blankets,  and,  where  supplies  are 
plenty,  seven  pounds  of  flour.  He  has,  generally,  two  or  three 
horeee,  to  carry  himself  and  his  baggage  and  peltries.  j.'wo 
trappers  commonly  go  together,  for  the  purposes  of  mutual 
assistance  and  support ;  a  larger  party  could  not  easily  escape 
the  eyes  of  the  Indians.  It  is  a  service  of  peril,  and  even 
more  so  at  present  than  formerly,  for  the  Indians,  since  they 
have  got  into  the  habit  of  ti-afficking  jieltries  Avith  the  traders, 
have  learned  the  value  of  the  beaver,  and  look  upon  the  trap- 
pers as  poachers,  Avho  are  filching  the  riches  from  their 
streams,  and  interfering  with  their  market.     They  make  no 


270         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

hesitation,  therefore,  to  murder  the  solitary  trapper,  and  thus 
destroy  a  competitor,  while  they  possess  themselves  of  his 
spoils.  It  is  with  regret  we  add,  too,  that  this  hostility  has  in 
many  cases  been  instigated  by  traders,  desirous  of  injuring 
their  rivals,  but  who  have  themselves  often  reaped  the  fruits 
of  the  mischief  they  have  sown. 

When  two  trappers  undertake  any  considerable  stream, 
their  mode  of  proceeding  is,  to  hide  their  horses  in  some  lonely 
glen,  where  they  can  graze  unobserved.  They  then  build  a 
small  hut,  dig  out  a  canoe  from  a  cotton-wood  tree,  and  in  this 
poke  along  shore  silently,  in  the  evening,  and  set  their  traps. 
These  they  revisit  in  the  same  silent  way  at  daybreak.  When 
they  take  any  beaver  they  bring  it  home,  skin  it,  stretch  the 
skins  on  sticks  to  dry,  and  feast  upon  the  flesh.  The  body, 
hung  u.p  before  the  fire,  turns  by  its  own  weight,  and  is  roasted 
in  a  superior  style;  the  tail  is  the  trapper's  tidbit;  it  is  cut  ofi", 
put  on  the  end  of  a  stick,  and  toasted,  and  is  considered  even 
a  greater  dainty  than  the  tongue  or  the  marrow-bone  of  a 
buffalo. 

With  all  their  silence  and  caution,  however,  the  poor  trap- 
pers cannot  always  escape  their  hawk-eyed  enemies.  Their 
trail  has  been  discovered,  perhaps,  and  followed  up  for  many 
a  mile;  or  their  smoke  has  been  seen  curhng  up  out  of  the 
secret  glen,  or  has  been  scented  by  the  savages,  whose  sense  of 
smell  is  almost  as  acute  as  that  of  sight.  Sometimes  they  are 
pounced  upon  when  in  the  act  of  setting  their  traps ;  at  other 
times,  they  are  roused  from  their  sleep  by  the  horrid  war- 
whoop;  or,  perhaps,  have  a  bullet  or  an  arrow  whistling  about 
their  ears,  in  the  midst  of  one  of  their  beaver  banquets.  In 
this  way  they  are  picked  off,  from  time  to  time,  and  nothing 
is  known  of  them,  until,  perchance,  their  bones  are  found 
bleaching  in  some  lonely  ravine,  or  on  the  banks  of  some 
nameless  stream,  which  from  that  time  is  called  after  them. 
Many  of  the  small  streams  beyond  the  mountains  thus  perpet- 
uate the  names  of  unfortunate  trappers  that  have  been  mur- 
dered on  their  banks. 

A  knowledge  of  these  dangers  deterred  Captain  Bonneville, 
in  the  present  instance,  from  detaching  small  parties  of  trap- 
pers as  he  had  intended;  for  his  scouts  brought  him  word  that 
formidable  bands  of  the  Banneck  Indians  were  lying  on  the 
Boisee  and  Payette  Rivers,  at  no  great  distance,  so  that  they 
would  be  apt  to  detect  and  cut  off  any  stragglers.  It  behooved 
him,  also,  to  keep  his  party  together,  to  guard  against  any 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         '21  \ 

predatory  attack  upon  the  main  body;  he  continued  on  his 
way,  therefore,  without  dividing  his  forces.  And  fortunate  it 
was  that  he  did  so;  for  in  a  Httle  while  he  encountered  one  of 
the  phenomena  of  the  western  wilds  that  would  effectually 
have  prevented  his  scattered  people  from  finding  each  other 
again.  In  a  word,  it  was  the  season  of  setting  fire  to  the  prai- 
ries. As  he  advanced  he  began  to  perceive  great  clouds  of 
smoke  at  a  distance,  rising  by  degrees,  and  spreading  over  the 
whole  face  of  the  country.  The  atmosphere  became  dry  and 
surcharged  with  murky  vapor,  parching  to  the  skin,  and  in-i- 
tating  to  the  eyes.  When  travelling  among  the  hills,  they 
could  scarcely  discern  objects  at  the  distance  of  a  few  paces ; 
indeed,  the  least  exertion  of  the  vision  was  painful.  There 
was  evidently  some  vast  conflagration  in  the  direction  toward 
which  they  were  proceeding;  it  was  as  yet  at  a  great  distance, 
and  during  the  day  they  could  only  see  the  smoke  rising  in 
larger  and  denser  volumes,  and  roUing  forth  in  an  immense 
canopy.  At  night  the  skies  were  all  glowing  with  the  reflec- 
tion of  unseen  fires,  hanging  in  an  immense  body  of  lurid  light 
high  above  the  horizon. 

Having  reached  Gun  Creek,  an  important  stream  coming 
from  the  left.  Captain  Bonneville  turned  up  its  course,  to 
traverse  the  moimtains  and  avoid  the  great  bend  of  Snake 
River.  Being  now  out  of  the  range  of  the  Bannecks,  he  sent 
out  his  people  in  all  directions  to  hunt  the  antelope  for  present 
supplies ;  keeping  the  dried  meats  for  places  where  game  might 
be  scarce. 

During  four  days  that  the  party  were  ascending  Gun  Creek, 
the  smoke  continued  to  increase  so  rapidly  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  distinguish  the  face  of  the  country  and  ascertain  land- 
marks. Fortunately,  the  travellers  fell  upon  an  Indian  trail, 
which  led  them  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Fourche  de  Glace  or 
Ice  River,  sometimes  called  the  Grand  Rond.  Here  they 
found  all  the  plains  and  valleys  wrapped  in  one  vast  confla- 
gration ;  which  swept  over  the  long  gi-ass  in  billows  of  flame, 
shot  up  every  bush  and  tree,  rose  in  great  columns  from  the 
groves,  and  set  up  clouds  of  smoke  that  darkened  the  at- 
mosphere. To  avoid  this  sea  of  fire,  the  travellers  had  to 
pursue  their  course  close  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  but 
the  irritation  from  the  smoke  continued  to  be  toi-menting. 

The  country  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Grand  Rond 
spreads  out  into  broad  and  level  prairies,  extremely  fertile,  and 
watered  by  mountain  springs  and  rivulets.     These  prairies  are 


272         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

resorted  to  by  small  bands  of  the  Skynses,  to  pasture  their 
horses,  as  well  as  to  banquet  upon  the  salmon  which  abound  in 
the  neighboring  waters.  They  take  these  fish  in  great  quanti- 
ties and  without  the  least  difficulty ;  simply  taking  them  out  of 
the  water  with  their  hands,  as  they  flounder  and  struggle  in  the 
numerous  long  shoals  of  the  principal  streams.  At  the  time 
the  travellers  passed  over  these  prairies,  some  of  the  narrow, 
deep  streams  by  which  they  were  intersected  were  completely 
choked  with  salmon,  which  they  took  in  great  numbers.  The 
wolves  and  bears  frequent  these  streams  at  this  season,  to 
avail  themselves  of  these  great  fisheries. 

The  travellers  continued,  for  many  days,  to  experience  great 
difficulties  and  discomforts  from  this  wide  conflagration,  which 
seemed  to  embrace  the  whole  wilderness.  The  sun  was  for  a 
great  part  of  the  time  obscured  by  the  smoke,  and  the  loftiest 
mountains  were  hidden  from  view.  Blundering  along  in  this 
region  of  mist  and  uncertainty,  they  were  frequently  obliged 
to  make  long  circuits,  to  avoid  obstacles  which  they  could  not 
perceive  until  close  upon  them.  The  Indian  trails  were  their 
safest  guides,  for  though  they  sometimes  appeared  to  lead 
them  out  of  their  direct  course,  they  always  conducted  them 
to  the  passes. 

On  the  26th  of  August,  they  reached  the  head  of  the  "Way- 
lee-way  River.  Here,  in  a  valley  of  the  mountains  through 
which  this  head-water  makes  its  way,  they  found  a  band  of 
the  Skynses,  who  were  extremely  sociable,  and  appeared  to  be 
well  disposed,  and  as  they  spoke  the  Nez  Perce  language,  an 
intercourse  was  easily  kept  up  with  them. 

In  the  pastures  on  the  bank  of  this  stream.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville encamped  for  a  time,  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  the 
strength  of  his  horses.  Scouts  were  now  sent  out  to  explore 
the  svirrounding  country,  and  search  for  a  convenient  pass 
through  the  mountains  toward  the  Wallamut  or  Multnomah. 
After  an  absence  of  twenty  days  they  returned  weary  and  dis- 
couraged. They  had  been  harassed  and  perplexed  in  rugged 
mountain  defiles,  where  their  progress  was  continually  im- 
peded by  rocks  and  precipices.  Often  they  had  been  obliged 
to  travel  along  the  edges  of  frightful  ravines,  where  a  false 
step  would  have  been  fatal.  In  one  of  these  passes,  a  horse 
fell  from  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  and  would  have  been  dashed 
to  pieces  had  he  not  lodged  among  the  branches  of  a  tree,  from 
which  he  was  extricated  with  great  difficulty.  These,  ho^^-- 
ever,  were  not  the  worst  of  their  difficulties  and  perils,,    The 


adventurp:^  of  captain  BONNEVILLE.       273 

great  conflagration  of  the  country,  which  had  harassed  the 
main  party  in  its  march,  was  still  more  awful  the  further  this 
exploiting  party  proceeded.  The  flames  which  swept  rapidly 
over  the  light  vegetation  of  the  prairies  assumed  a  fierce?? 
character  and  took  a  stronger  hold  amid  the  wooded  glens  and 
ravines  of  the  mountains.  Some  of  the  deep  gorges  and  defiles 
sent  up  sheets  of  flame,  and  clouds  of  lurid  smoke,  and  sparks 
and  cinders  that  in  the  night  made  them  resemble  the  craters 
of  volcanoes.  The  groves  and  forests,  too,  which  crowned  the 
cliils,  shot  up  their  towering  columns  of  fire,  and  added  to  the 
furnace  glow  of  the  mountains.  With  these  stupendous  sights 
were  combined  the  rushing  blasts  caused  by  the  rarefied  air, 
which  roared  and  howled  through  the  narrow  glens,  and 
whirled  forth  the  smoke  and  flames  in  impetuous  wreaths. 
Ever  and  anon,  too,  was  heard  the  crash  of  falling  trees,  some- 
times tumbling  from  crags  and  precipices,  with  tremendous 
sounds. 

In  the  daytime,  the  mountains  were  wrapped  in  smoke  so 
dense  and  blinding,  that  the  explorers,  if  by  chance  they  sepa- 
rated, could  only  find  each  other  by  shouting.  Often,  too, 
they  had  to  grope  their  way  through  the  yet  burning  forests, 
in  constant  peril  from  the  limbs  and  trunks  of  trees,  which 
frequently  fell  across  their  path.  At  length  they  gave  up  the 
attempt  to  find  a  pass  as  hopeless,  under  actual  circumstances, 
and  made  their  way  back  to  the  camp  to  report  their  failure. 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

THE  SKYNSES  —  THEIR  TRAFFIC  —  HUNTING  —  FOOD  —  HORSES  —  A 
HORSE-RACE  —  DEVOTIONAL  FEELING  OF  THE  SKYNSES,  NEZ 
PERCES  AND  FLATIIEADS  —  PRAYERS  —  EXHORTATIONS  —  A 
PREACHER  ON  HORSEBACK— EFFECT  OF  RELIGION  ON  THE  MAN- 
NERS OF  THE  TRIBES— A  NEW  LIGHT. 

During  the  absence  of  this  detachment,  a  sociable  inter- 
course had  been  kept  up  between  the  main  party  and  the 
Skynses,  who  had  removed  into  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp. 
These  people  dwell  about  the  waters  of  the  Way-lee-way  and 
the  adjacent  country,  and  trade  regularly  with  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Companj-;  general!}'-  giving  horses  in  exchange  for  the 


274         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

articles  of  which  they  stand  in  need.  They  bring  beaver 
skins,  also,  to  the  trading  posts;  not  procured  by  trapping, 
but  by  a  course  of  internal  traffic  with  the  shy  and  ignorant 
Shoshokoes  and  Too-el-icans,  who  keep  in  distant  and  un- 
frequented parts  of  the  country,  and  will  not  venture  near  the 
trading  houses.  The  Skynses  hunt  the  dear  and  elk  occasion- 
ally; and  depend,  for  a  part  of  the  year,  on  fishing.  Their 
main  subsistence,  however,  is  upon  roots,  especially  the 
kamash.  This  bulbous  root  is  said  to  be  of  a  delicious  flavor, 
and  highly  nutritious.  The  women  dig  it  up  in  great  quanti- 
ties, steam  it,  and  deposit  it  in  caches  for  winter  provisions. 
It  grows  spontaneously,  and  absolutely  covers  the  plains. 

This  tribe  were  comfortably  clad  and  equipped.  They  had  a 
few  rifles  among  them,  and  were  extremely  desirous  of  bar- 
tering for  those  of  Captain  Bonneville's  men ;  offering  a  couple 
of  good  running  horses  for  a  light  rifle.  Their  first-rate  horses, 
however,  were  not  to  be  procured  from  them  oir  any  terms. 
They  almost  invar-iably  use  ponies ;  but  of  a  breed  infinitely 
superior  to  any  in  the  United  States.  They  are  fond  of  trying 
their  speed  and  bottom,  and  of  betting  upon  them. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  was  desirous  of  judging  of  the  com- 
parative merit  of  their  horses,  he  jjurchased  one  of  their  racers, 
and  had  a  trial  of  speed  between  that,  an  American,  and  a 
Shoshonie,  which  were  supposed  to  be  well  matched.  The 
race-course  was  for  the  distance  of  one  mile  and  a  half  out  and 
back.  For  the  first  half  mile  the  American  took  the  lead  by  a 
few  hands;  but,  losing  his  wind,  soon  fell  far  behind;  leaving 
the  Shoshonie  and  Skynse  to  contend  together.  For  a  mfle 
and  a  half  they  went  head  and  head:  but  at  the  turn  the 
Slcynse  took  the  lead  and  won  the  race  with  great  ease,  scarce 
drawing  a  quick  breath  when  all  was  over. 

The  Skynses,  like  the  Nez  Perces  and  the  Flatheads,  have  a 
strong  devotional  feeling,  which  has  been  successfully  culti- 
vated by  some  of  the  resident  personages  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  Sunday  is  invariably  kept  sacred  among  these 
tribes.  They  will  not  raise  their  camp  on  that  day,  unless  in 
exti'eme  cases  of  danger  or  hunger:  neither  wfll  they  hvmt,  nor 
fish,  nor  trade,  nor  perform  any  kind  of  labor  on  that  day.  A 
part  of  it  is  passed  in  prayer  and  religious  ceremonies.  Some 
chief,  who  is  generally  at  the  same  time  what  is  called  a 
"medicine  nij.n,''  assembles  the  community.  After  invoking 
blei^jdngs  from  the  Deity,  he  addresses  the  assemblage,  exhort- 
ing thciu  to  good  conduct ;  to  be  diligent  in  providing  for  their 


ADVENTUMES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         275 

families ;  to  abstain  from  lying  and  stealing ;  to  avoid  quarrel- 
ling or  cheating  in  their  play,  and  to  be  just  and  hospitable  to 
all  strangers  who  may  be  among  them.  Prayers  and  exhorta- 
tions are  also  made,  early  in  the  morning,  on  week  days. 
Sometimes,  all  this  is  done  by  the  chief  from  horseback ;  mov- 
ing slowly  about  the  camp,  with  his  hat  on,  and  uttering  his 
exhortations  with  a  loud  voice.  On  all  occasions,  the  by- 
standers Usten  with  profound  attention;  and  at  the  end  of 
every  sentence  respond  one  word  in  unison,  apparently  equiv- 
alent to  an  amen.  While  these  prayers  and  exhortations  are 
going  on,  every  employment  in  the  camp  is  suspended.  If  an 
Indian  is  riding  by  the  place,  he  dismounts,  holds  his  horse, 
and  attends  with  reverence  until  all  is  done.  When  the  chief 
has  finished  his  prayer  or  exhortation,  he  says,  "  I  have  done;" 
upon  which  there  is  a  general  exclamation  in  unison. 

With  these  religious  services,  probably  derived  from  the 
white  men,  the  tribes  above-mentioned  mingle  some  of  their 
old  Indian  ceremonials,  such  as  dancing  to  the  cadence  of  a 
song  or  ballad,  which  is  generally  done  in  a  large  lodge  pro- 
vided for  the  purpose.  Besides  Sundays,  they  likcAvise  observe 
the  cardinal  holidays  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

Whoever  has  introduced  these  simple  forms  of  reMgion 
among  these  poor  savages,  has  evidently  understood  their 
characters  and  capacities,  and  effected  a  great  melioration  of 
their  manners.  Of  this  we  speak  not  merely  from  the  testi- 
monj'  of  Captain  Bonneville,  but  likewise  from  that  of  Mr. 
Wyeth,  who  passed  some  months  in  a  travelling  camp  ot"  the 
Flatheads.  "During  the  time  I  have  been  with  them,"  says  he, 
* '  I  have  never  known  an  instance  of  the  It  among  them :  the 
least  thing,  even  to  a  bead  or  pin,  is  brought  to  you,  if  found ; 
and  often,  things  that  have  been  thrown  away.  Neither 
have  I  known  any  quarrelling,  nor  lying.  This  absence  of  all 
quarrelling  the  more  surprised  me,  when  I  came  to  see  the 
various  occasions  that  would  have  given  rise  to  it  among  the 
whites:  the  crowding  together  of  from  tAvelve  to  eighteen 
hundred  horses,  which  have  to  be  driven  into  camp  at  night, 
to  be  picketed,  to  be  packed  in  the  morning ;  the  gathering  of 
fuel  in  places  where  it  is  extremely  scanty.  All  this,  however, 
is  done  without  confusion  or  disturbance. 

"They  have  a  mild,  playful,  laughing  disposition;  and  this 
is  porti'ayed  in  their  countenances.  They  are  polite,  and  un- 
obtrusive. When  one  speaks,  the  rest  pay  strict  attention: 
when  he  is  done,  another  assents  by  '  yes,'  or  dissents  by  '  no;' 


276         ADVICNTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

and  then  states  his  reasons,  which  are  Hstencd  to  with  equal 
attention.  Even  the  children  are  more  peaceable  than  any- 
other  children.  I  never  heard  an  angry  word  among  tbem, 
nor  any  quarrelling ;  although  there  were,  at  least,  five  hundred 
of  them  together,  and  continuaUy  at  play.  With  all  this 
quietness  of  spirit,  they  are  brave  when  put  to  the  test ;  and 
are  an  overmatch  for  an  equal  number  of  Blackfeet." 

The  foregoing  observations,  though  gathered  from  Mr. 
Wyeth  as  relative  to  the  Flatheads,  apply,  in  the  main,  to  the 
Skynses  also.  Captain  Bonneville,  during  his  sojourn  with 
the  latter,  took  constant  occasion,  in  conversing  with  their 
principal  men,  to  encourage  them  in  the  cultivation  of  moral 
and  religious  habits;  drawing  a  comparison  between  their 
peaceable  and  comfortable  course  of  life  and  that  of  other 
tribes,  and  attributing  it  to  their  superior  sense  of  morality 
and  religion.  Ho  frequently  attended  their  religious  services, 
with  his  people ;  always  en joinmg  on  the  latter  the  most  rever- 
ential deportment ;  and  he  observed  that  the  poor  Indians  were 
always  pleased  to  have  the  white  men  present. 

The  disposition  of  these  tribes  is  evidently  favorable  to  a 
considerable  degree  of  civilization.  A  few  farmers  settled 
among  them  might  lead  them,  Captain  Bonneville  thinks,  to 
till  the  earth  and  cultivate  grain ;  the  country  of  the  Skynses 
and  Nez  Perces  is  admirably  adapted  for  the  raising  of  cattle, 
A  Christian  missionary  or  two,  and  some  trifling  assistance 
from  government,  to  protect  them  from  the  predatory  and 
warhke  tribes,  might  lay  the  foundation  of  a  Christian  people 
in  the  midst  of  the  great  western  wilderness,  who  would 
"  wear  the  Americans  near  their  hearts." 

We  must  not  omit  to  observe,  however,  in  qualification  of 
the  sanctity  of  this  Sabbath  in  the  wilderness,  that  these  tribes 
who  are  all  ardently  addicted  to  gambling  and  horseracing, 
make  Sunday  a  peculiar  day  for  recreations  of  the  kind,  not 
deeming  them  in  any  wise  out  of  season.  After  prayers  and 
pious  ceremonials  are  over,  there  is  scarce  an  hour  in  the  day, 
says  Captain  Bonneville,  that  you  do  not  see  several  horses 
racing  at  full  speed;  and  in  every  corner  of  the  camp  are 
groups  of  gamblers,  ready  to  stake  everything  upon  the  all- 
absorbing  game  of  hand.  The  Indians,  says  Wyeth,  appear  to 
enjoy  their  amusements  with  more  zest  than  the  whites. 
They  are  great  gamblers ;  and  in  proportion  to  their  means, 
play  bolder  and  bet  higher  than  white  men. 

The  cultivation  of  the  religious  feeling,  above  noted,  among 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONN  EVIL  LK         277 

the  savages,  has  been  at  times  a  convenient  policy  with  some 
of  the  more  kno^vi^g  traders;  who  have  derived  great  credit 
and  inllueuce  among  them  by  being  considered  "medicine 
men;"  that  is,  men  gifted  with  mysterious  knowledge.  This 
feehng  is  also  at  times  played  upon  by  religious  charlatans, 
wlio  are  to  be  found  in  savage  as  well  as  civilized  life.  One  of 
these  was  noted  by  Wyeth,  during  his  sojourn  among  the 
Flatheads.  A  new  great  man,  says  he,  is  rising  in  the  camp, 
who  aims  at  power  and  sway.  He  covers  his  designs  under 
the  ample  cloak  of  religion;  inculcating  some  new  doctrines 
and  ceremonials  among  those  who  are  more  simple  than  him- 
self. He  has  already  made  proselytes  of  one  fifth  of  the  camp; 
beginning  by  working  on  the  women,  the  children,  and  the 
weak-minded.  His  followers  arc  all  dancing  on  the  plain,  to 
their  own  vocal  music.  The  more  knowing  ones  of  the  tribe 
look  on  and  laugh ;  thinking  it  all  too  foolish  to  do  harm ;  but 
they  will  soon  find  that  women,  children,  and  fools,  form  a 
large  majority  of  every  community,  and  they  will  have,  event- 
ually, to  follow  the  new  light,  or  be  considered  among  the 
profane.  As  soon  as  a  preacher  or  pseudo  prophet  of  the  kind 
gets  followers  enough,  he  either  takes  command  of  the  tribe,  or 
branches  off  aijd  sets  up  for  an  independent  chief  and  ' '  medi- 
cine man." 


CHAPTEE  XLVI. 

SCARCITY  IN  THE  CAMP— REFUSAL  OF  SUrrLIES  BY  THE  HUDSON'S 
BAY  CO.MPANY — CONDUCT  OF  THE  INDIANS— A  HUNGRY  RETREAT 
— JOHN  day's  river — THE  BLUE  MOUNTAINS— SALMON  FISIIINQ 
ON  SNAKE  RIVER— MESSENGERS  FROM  THE  CROW  COUNTRY — 
BEAR  RIVER  VALLEY — IMMENSE  MIGRATION  OF  BUFFALO  — DAN- 
GER OF  BUFFALO  HUNTING— A  WOUNDED  INDIAN — EUTAW  IN- 
DIANS—A   "surround"  OF  ANTELOPES. 

Provisions  were  now  growing  scanty  in  the  camp,  and  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  foimd  it  necessary  to  seek  a  new  neighborhood. 
Taking  leave,  therefore,  of  his  friends,  the  Skynses,  he  set  off 
to  the  westward,  and,  crossing  a  low  range  of  mountains,  en- 
camped on  the  head-waters  of  the  Ottolais.  Being  now  within 
thirty  miles  of  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the  trading  post  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  he  sent  a  small  detachment  of  men  thither 


278         ADVKNTUIIES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

to  purchase  corn  for  the  subsistence  of  his  party.  The  men  -were 
well  received  at  the  fort ;  but  all  suppHes  for  their  camp  were 
l)ereinptorily  refused.  Tempting  offers  were  made  them,  how- 
ever, if  they  would  leave  their  present  employ,  and  enter  into 
the  sei'vice  of  the  company ;  but  they  were  not  to  be  seduce<i. 

When  Captain  Bonneville  saw  his  messengers  return  empty- 
handed,  he  ordei^ed  an  instant  move,  for  there  was  imminent 
danger  of  famine.  He  pushed  forward  down  the  course  of  the 
Ottolais,  which  runs  diagonal  to  the  Columbia,  and  falls  into  it 
about  fifty  miles  below  the  Wallah-Wallah.  His  route  lay 
through  a  beautiful  undulating  country,  covered  with  horses 
belonging  to  the  Skynses,  who  sent  them  there  for  pasturage. 

On  reaching  the  Columbia,  Captain  Bonneville  hoped  to  open 
a  trade  with  the  natives,  for  fish  and  other  provisions,  but  to 
his  surprise  they  kept  aloof,  and  even  hid  theinselves  on  his 
approach.  He  soon  discovered  that  they  were  under  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  had  forbidden  them 
to  trade,  or  hold  any  communion  with  him.  He  proceeded 
along  the  Columbia,  but  it  was  everywhere  the  same ;  not  an 
article  of  provisions  was  to  be  obtained  from  the  natives,  and 
he  was  at  length  obliged  to  kill  a  couple  of  his  horses  to  sustain 
his  famishing  people.  He  now  came  to  a  halt,  and  consulted 
what  was  to  be  done.  The  broad  and  beautiful  Columbia  lay 
before  them,  smooth  and  unruffled  as  a  mirror ;  a  little  more 
journeying  would  take  them  to  its  lower  region ;  to  the  noble 
valley  of  the  Wallamut,  their  projected  winter  quarters.  To 
advance  under  present  circumstftuces  woidd  be  to  court  starva- 
tion. The  resources  of  the  country  were  locked  against  them, 
by  the  influence  of  a  jealous  and  powerful  monopoly.  If  they 
reached  the  Wallamut,  they  could  scarcely  hope  to  obtain  suf- 
ficient supphes  for  the  winter;  if  they  lingered  any  longer  in 
the  country  the  snows  would  gather  upon  the  mountains  and 
cut  off  their  retreat.  By  hastening  their  return,  they  woidd  be 
able  to  reach  the  Blue  Mountains  just  in  time  to  find  the  elk, 
the  deer,  and  the  bighorn ;  and  after  they  had  supplied  them- 
selves with  provisions,  they  might  push  through  the  mountains 
before  they  were  entirely  blocked  up  by  snow.  Influenced  by 
uhese  considerations,  Captain  Bonneville  reluctantly  turned  his 
back  a  second  time  on  the  Columbia,  and  set  off  for  the  Blue 
Mountains.  He  took  his  course  up  John  Day's  River,  so  called 
from  one  of  the  hunters  in  the  original  Astorian  enterprise. 
As  famine  was  at  his  heels,  he  travelled  fast,  and  reached  the 
mountains  by  the  1st  of  October.     He  entered  by  the  opening 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.        279 

made  by  John  Day's  River-,  it  was  a  rugged  and  difficult  defile, 
but  he  and  his  men  had  become  accustomed  to  hard  scrambles  of 
the  kind.  Fortunately,  the  September  rams  had  extinguished 
the  fires  which  recently  spread  over  these  regions;  and  the 
mountains,  no  longer  wrapped  in  smoke,  now  revealed  all  their 
grandeur  and  subhmity  to  the  eye. 

They  were  disappointed  in  their  expectation  of  finding  abun- 
dant game  in  the  mountains ;  large  bands  of  the  natives  had 
passed  tlu*ough,  returning  from  their  fishing  expeditions,  and 
had  driven  all  the  game  before  them.  It  was  only  now  and  then 
that  the  hunters  could  bring  in  sufficient  to  keep  the  party 
from  starvation. 

To  add  to  their  distress,  they  mistook  their  route,  and  wan- 
dered for  ten  days  among  high  and  bald  hills  of  clay.  At 
length,  after  much  perplexity,  they  made  their  way  to  the 
banks  of  Snake  River,  following  the  course  of  which,  they  were 
sure  to  reach  their  place  of  destination. 

It  was  the  20th  of  October  when  they  found  themselves  once 
more  upon  this  noted  stream.  The  Shoshokoes,  whom  they 
had  met  with  in  such  scanty  numbers  on  their  30urnoy  down 
the  river,  now  absolutely  thronged  its  banks  to  profit  by  the 
abundance  of  salmon,  and  lay  up  a  stock  for  winter  provisions. 
Scaffolds  were  everywhere  erected,  and  immense  quantities  of 
fish  drying  upon  them.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  however, 
the  salmon  are  extremely  poor,  and  the  travellers  needed  their 
keen  sauce  of  hunger  to  give  them  a  relish. 

In  some  places  the  shores  were  completely  covered  with  a 
stratum  of  dead  salmon,  exhausted  in  ascending  the  river,  or 
destroyed  at  the  falls;  the  fetid  odor  of  which  tainted  the 
air. 

It  was  not  until  the  travellers  reached  the  head- waters  of  the 
Portneuf  that  they  really  found  themselves  in  a  region  of 
abundance.  Here  the  buffalo  were  in  immense  herds ;  and  here 
they  remained  for  three  days,  slaying  and  cooking,  and  feast- 
ing, and  indemnifying  themselves  by  an  enormous  carnival, 
for  a  long  and  himgry  Lent.  Their  horees,  too,  found  good 
pasturage,  and  enjoyed  a  httle  rest  after  a  severe  spell  of  hard 
traveUing. 

During  this  period,  two  horsemen  arrived  at  the  camp,  who 
proved  to  be  messengers  sent  express  for  supplies  from  ^lon- 
tero's  party ;  which  had  been  sent  to  beat  up  the  Crow  country 
and  the  Black  Hills,  and  to  winter  on  the  Arkansas.  They  re- 
ported that  all  was  weU  with  the  party,  but  that  they  had  not 


280         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

been  able  to  accomplish  the  whole  of  their  mission,  and  were 
still  in  the  Crow  country,  where  they  should  remain  until 
joined  by  Captain  Bomieville  in  the  spring.  The  captain  re- 
taiaed  luo  mesacngers  with  him  until  the  17th  of  November, 
Wiicn,  having  reached  the  caches  on  Bear  River,  and  procured 
thence  the  required  supphes,  he  sent  them  back  to  their  party ; 
appointing  a  reiadezvous  toward  the  last  of  June  following,  on 
the  foriis  of  Wind  River  vaUey,  in  the  Crow  country. 

He  now  remained  several  days  encamped  near  the  caches, 
and  having  discovered  a  smaU  band  of  Shoshonies  in  his  neigh- 
borhood, purchased  from  them  lodges,  fm-s,  and  other  articles 
of  winter  comfort,  and  arranged  with  them  to  encamp  together 
during  the  winter. 

The  place  designed  by  the  captain  for  the  wintering  ground 
was  on  the  upper  part  of  Bear  River,  some  distance  off.  He 
delayed  approaching  it  as  long  as  possible,  in  order  to  avoid 
driving  off  the  buffalo,  which  would  be  needed  for  winter  pro- 
visions. He  accordingly  moved  forward  but  slowly,  merely  as 
the  want  of  game  and  grass  obliged  him  to  shift  Ms  position. 
The  weather  had  ah'cady  become  extremely  cold,  and  the  snow 
lay  to  a  considerable  depth.  To  enable  the  horses  to  carry  as 
much  dried  meat  as  possible,  he  caused  a  cache  to  be  made,  in 
which  all  the  baggage  that  could  be  spared  was  deposited. 
This  done,  the  party  continued  to  move  slowly  toward  their 
winter  quarters. 

They  were  not  doomed,  however,  to  suffer  from  scarcity 
during  the  present  winter.  The  people  upon  Snake  River 
having  chased  off  the  buffalo  before  the  snow  had  become 
deep,  immense  herds  now  came  trooping  over  the  mountains ; 
forming  dark  masses  on  their  sides,  from  which  their  deep- 
mouthed  bellowing  sounded  like  the  low  peals  and  mutterings 
from  a  gathering  thunder-cloud.  In  effect,  the  cloud  broke, 
and  down  came  the  torrent  thundering  into  the  valley.  It  is 
utterly  impossible,  according  to  Captain  Bonneville,  to  convey 
an  idea  of  the  effect  produced  by  the  sight  of  such  countless 
throngs  of  animals  of  such  bulk  and  spirit,  all  rushing  forward 
as  if  swept  on  by  a  whirlwind. 

The  long  privation  which  the  travellers  had  suffered  gave 
uncommon  ardor  to  their  present  hunting.  One  of  the  Indians 
attached  to  the  party,  finding  himself  on  horseback  in  the 
midst  of  the  buffaloes,  without  either  rifle,  or  bow  and  arrows, 
dashed  after  a  fine  cow  that  was  passing  close  by  him,  and 
plunged  his  knife  into  her  side  with  such  lucky  aim  as  to  bring 


ADVK^-TURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         281 

her  to  the  fri'ound.  It  Avas  a  daring  deed;  but  hunger  had 
made  hiui  ahuost  desperate. 

The  bulTaloes  arc  sometimes  tenacious  of  life,  and  must  be 
wounded  in  particular  parts.  A  ball  striking  the  shagged 
frontlet  of  a  bull  produces  no  other  effect  than  a  toss  of  the 
head  and  greater  exasperation;  on  the  contrary,  a  ball  strik- 
ing the  toi-ehead  of  a  cow  is  fatal.  Several  instances  occurred 
during  this  great  hunting  bout,  of  bulls  fighting  furiously  after 
having  received  mortal  wounds.  Wyeth,  also,  was  witness  to 
an  instance  of  the  kind  while  encamped  with  Indians.  Dur- 
ing a  grand  hunt  of  the  buffalo,  one  of  the  Indians  ])ressed  a 
bull  so  closely  t-hat  the  animal  turned  suddenly  on  him.  His 
horce  stopped  short,  or  started  back,  and  threw  him.  Before 
he  could  rise  the  bull  inished  furiously  upon  him,  and  gored 
him  in  the  chest  so  that  his  breath  came  out  at  the  aperture. 
He  was  conveyed  back  to  the  camp,  and  his  wound  was 
dressed.  Givmg  himself  up  for  slain,  he  called  round  him 
his  friends,  and  made  his  wiU  b%-  word  of  mouth.  It  was 
something  like  a  death  chant,  and  at  the  end  of  every  sen- 
tence those  around  responded  in  concord.  He  appeared  no 
ways  intimidated  by  the  approach  of  death.  "  I  think,"  adds 
Wyeth,  ' '  the  Indians  die  better  than  the  white  men ;  perhaps, 
from  having  less  fear  about  the  future." 

The  buffalo  may  be  approached  very  near,  if  the  hunter 
keeps  to  the  leeward;  but  they  are  quick  of  scent,  and  will 
take  the  alarm  and  move  off  from  a  party  of  himters  to  the 
windward,  even  when  two  miles  distant. 

Tlio  vast  herds  which  had  poured  down  into  the  Bear  River 
valley  were  now  snow-bound,  and  remamed  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  camji  througiiout  the  winter.  This  furnished  the 
trappers  and  their  Indian  friends  a  perpetual  v,'arnival;  so 
that,  to  slay  and  eat  seemed  to  be  the  main  occupations  of 
the  day.  It  is  astonishing  what  loads  of  meat  it  requires  to 
cope  with  the  appetite  of  a  hunting  camp. 

The  ravens  and  wolves  soon  came  in  for  their  share  of  the 
good  chcor.  These  constant  attendants  of  the  hunter  gathered 
in  vast  numbers  as  the  winter  advanced.  They  might  be  com- 
pletely out  of  sight,  but  at  the  report  of  a  gun,  flights  of  ravens 
would  immediately  be  seen  hovering  in  tbe  air,  no  one  knew 
whence  they  came;  while  the  sharp  visages  of  the  wolves 
would  peep  down  from  the  brow  of  every  hill,  waiting  for  the 
hunter's  departure  to  poimce  ujion  the  carcass. 

Beside  the  buffaloes,  there  were  other  neighbors  snow-bound 


282         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

in  the  valley,  whose  presence  did  not  promise  to  be  so  advan- 
tageous. This  was  a  band  of  Eutaw  Indians  who  were  en- 
camped higher  up  on  the  river.  They  are  a  poor  tribe  that,  in 
a.  scale  of  the  various  tribes  inhabiting  these  regions,  would 
rank  between  the  Shoshonies  and  the  Shoshokoes  or  Root  Dig- 
gers ;  though  more  bold  and  warlike  than  the  latter.  They 
have  but  few  rifles  among  them,  and  are  generally  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows. 

As  this  band  and  the  Shoshonies  were  at  deadly  feud,  on  ac- 
count of  old  grievances,  and  as  neitlier  party  stood  in  awe  of 
the  other,  it  was  feared  some  bloody  scenes  might  ensue.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  therefore,  undertook  the  office  of  pacificator, 
and  sent  to  the  Eutaw  chiefs,  inviting  them  to  a  friendly 
smoke,  in  order  to  bring  about  a  reconciliation.  His  invita- 
tion was  proudly  declined ;  whereupon  he  went  to  them  in  per- 
son, and  succeeded  in  effecting  a  suspension  of  hostilities  until 
the  chiefs  of  the  two  tribes  could  meet  in  council.  The  braves 
of  the  two  rival  camps  sullenly  acquiesced  in  the  arrangement. 
They  would  take  theii'  seats  upon  the  hill  tops,  and  watch  their 
quondam  enemies  hunting  the  buffalo  in  the  plain  below,  and 
evidently  repine  that  their  hands  were  tied  up  from  a  skir- 
mish. The  worthy  captain  however,  succeeded  in  carrying 
through  his  benevolent  mediation.  The  chiefs  met ;  the  amica- 
ble pipe  was  smoked,  the  hatchet  buried,  and  peace  formally , 
proclaimed.  After  this,  both  camps  united  and  mingled  in 
social  intercourse.  Private  quarrels,  however,  would  occa- 
sionally occur  in  hunting,  about  the  division  of  the  game,  and 
blows  would  sometimes  be  exchanged  over  the  carcass  of  a 
buffalo ;  but  the  chiefs  wisely  took  no  notice  of  these  individual 
brawls. 

One  day  the  scouts,  who  had  been  ranging  the  hills,  brought 
news  of  several  large  herds  of  antelopes  in  a  small  valley  at  no 
groat  distance.  This  produced  a  sensation  among  the  Indians, 
for  both  tribes  were  in  ragged  condition,  and  sadly  in  want  of 
those  shirts  made  of  the  skin  of  the  antelope.  It  was  deter- 
mined to  have  "  a  surround,"  as  the  mode  of  hunting  that  ani- 
mal is  called.  Everything  now  assumed  an  air  of  mystic  so- 
lemnity and  importance.  The  chiefs  prepared  their  medicines 
or  charms  each  according  to  his  own  method,  or  fancied  inspi- 
ration, generally  ^^ith  the  compoimd  of  certain  simples ;  others 
consulted  the  entrails  of  animals  which  they  had  sacrificed, 
an:l  thence  drew  favorable  auguries.  After  much  grave  smok- 
ing and  deliberating  it  was  at  length  proclaimed  that  all  who 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         283 

were  able  to  lift  a  club,  man.  woman,  or  child,  should  muster 
for  "  the  surround. "  When  all  had  congregated,  they  moved 
in  rude  procession  to  the  nearest  point  of  the  valley  in  question, 
and  there  halted.  Another  course  of  smoking  and  deliberating, 
of  which  the  Indians  are  so  fond,  took  place  among  the  chiefs. 
Directions  were  then  issued  for  the  horsemen  to  make  a  circuit 
of  about  seven  miles,  so  as  to  encompass  the  herd.  When  this 
was  done,  the  whole  mounted  force  dashed  off  simultaneously, 
at  full  speed,  shouting  and  yelling  at  the  top  of  their  voices. 
In  a  short  space  of  time  the  antelopes,  started  from  their 
hiding-i)laces,  came  bounding  from  all  points  into  the  valley. 
The  riders,  now  gradually  contracting  their  circle,  brought 
them  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  spot  where  the  senior  chief,  sur- 
romided  by  the  elders,  male  and  female,  were  seated  in  super- 
vision of  the  chase.  The  anteloiDcs,  nearly  exhausted  with 
fatigue  and  fright,  and  bewildered  by  perpetual  whooping, 
made  no  effort  to  break  through  the  ring  of  the  hunters,  but 
ran  round  in  small  circles,  until  man,  woman,  and  child  beat 
them  down  with  bludgeons.  Such  is  the  nature  of  that  species 
of  antelope  hunting,  technically  called  "a  surround." 


CHAPTER  XLVn. 

A  FESTIVE  WINTER— CONVERSION  OF  THE  SHOSHONTES —VISIT  OF 
TWO  FREE  TRAPPERS— GAYETY  IN  THE  CAMP— A  TOUCH  OP 
THE  TENDER  PASSION — THE  RECLAIMED  SQUAW— AN  INDIAN  FINE 
LADY — AN  ELOPEMENT — A  PURSUIT — MARKET  VALUE  OF  A  BAD 
WIFE. 

Game  continued  to  abound  throughout  the  winter,  and  the 
camp  was  overetocked  with  provisions.  Beef  and  venison, 
humps  and  haunches,  buffalo  tongues  and  marrow-bones,  were 
constantly  ccoking  at  every  fire ;  and  the  whole  atmosphere 
was  redolent  with  the  savory  fumes  of  roast  meat.  It  was,  in- 
deed, a  continual  "feast  of  fat  things,  "and  though  there  might 
be  a  lack  of  "wine  upon  the  lees,"  yet  we  have  shown  that  a 
substitute  was  occasionally  to  bo  found  in  honey  and  alcohol. 

Both  the  Shoshonies  and  the  Eutaws  conducted  themselves 
with  great  propriety.  It  is  true,  they  now  and  then  filched  a 
few  trifles  from  their  good  friends,  the  Big  Hearts,  when  their 


284         ADVENTURES   OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

backs  were  turned;  but  then,  they  always  treated  them  to 
their  faces  with  the  utmost  deference  and  respect,  and  good- 
humoredly  vied  with  the  trappeis  in  all  kinds  of  feats  of  activ- 
ity and  mirthful  sports.  The  two  tribes  maintained  toward 
each  other,  also,  a  friendliness  of  aspect  which  gave  Captain 
Bonneville  reason  to  hope  that  all  past  animosity  was  effectu- 
ally buried. 

The  two  rival  bands,  however,  had  not  long  been  mingled  in 
this  social  manner,  before  their  ancient  jealousy  began  to 
break  out  in  a  new  form.  The  senior  chief  of  the  Slioshonies 
was  a  thinking  man,  and  a  man  of  observation.  He  had  been 
among  the  Nez  Perces,  listened  to  their  new  code  of  morality 
and  religion  received  froiu  the  white  men,  and  attended  their 
devotional  exercises.  He  had  observed  the  effect  of  ah  this,  in 
elevating  the  tribe  in  the  estimation  of  the  white  men ;  and 
determined,  by  the  same  means,  to  gain  for  his  own  tribe  a 
superiority  over  their  ignorant  rivals,  the  Eutaws.  He  accord- 
ingly assembled  his  people,  and  promulgated  among  them  the 
mongrel  doctrines  and  form  of  worship  of  the  Nez  Perces; 
recommending  the  same  to  their  adoption.  The  Slioshonies 
were  stiaick  with  the  novelty,  at  least,  of  the  measure,  and 
entered  into  it  with  spirit.  They  began  to  observe  Sundays 
and  holidays,  and  to  have  their  devotional  dances,  and  chants, 
and  other  ceremonials,  about  which  the  ignorant  Eutaws  knew 
nothing ;  while  they  exerted  their  usual  competition  in  shoot- 
ing and  horseracing,  and  the  renowned  game  of  hand. 

Matters  were  going  on  thus  pleasantly  and  prosperously,  in 
this  motley  community  of  white  and  red  men,  when,  one 
morning,  two  stark  free  trappers,  arrayed  in  the  height  of  sav- 
age finery,  and  movmted  on  steeds  as  fine  and  as  fiery  as  them- 
selves, and  all  jingling  with  hawks'  bells,  came  galloping,  with 
whoop  and  halloo,  into  the  camp. 

They  were  fresh  from  the  winter  encampment  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company,  ui  the  Green  River  valley ;  and  had  come 
to  pay  their  old  comrades  of  Captain  Bonneville's  company  a 
visit.  An  idea  may  be  formed  from  the  scenes  we  have  already 
given  of  conviviality  in  the  wilderness,  of  the  manner  in  which 
these  game  birds  were  received  by  those  of  their  feat^ier  in  the 
camp;  what  feasting,  what  revelhng,  what  boasting,  what 
bragging,  what  ranting  and  roaring,  and  racing  and  gambhng, 
and  squabbhng  and  fighting,  ensued  among  these  boon  com- 
panions. Captain  Bonneville,  it  is  true,  maintained  always  a 
certain  degree  of  law  and  order  in  his  camp,  and  chocked  each 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         9S5 

fierce  excess ;  but  the  trappers,  in  their  seasons  of  idleness  and 
relaxation  require  a  degree  of  hcense  and  indulgence,  to  repay 
them  for  the  long  privations  and  almost  incredible  hardsbijis  of 
their  periods  of  active  service. 

In  the  midst  of  all  tliis  feasting  and  frolicking,  a  freak  of  the 
tender  passion  intervened,  and  wrought  a  comjilete  change  in 
the  scene.  Among  the  Indian  beauties  in  the  camp  of  the 
Eutaws  and  Shoshonies,  the  free  trappere  discovered  two,  who 
had  whilom  figured  as  their  squaws.  These  connections  fre- 
quently take  place  for  a  season,  and  sometimes  continue  for 
years,  if  not  perpetually ;  but  are  apt  to  be  broken  when  the 
free  trapper  starts  off,  suddenly,  on  some  distant  and  rough 
expedition. 

In  the  present  instance,  these  wild  blades  were  anxious  to 
regain  their  belles ;  nor  were  the  latter  loath  once  more  to  come 
under  their  protection.  The  free  trapper  combines,  in  the  eye 
of  an  Indian  girl,  aU  that  is  dashing  and  heroic  in  a  warrior  of 
her  own  race— whose  gait,  and  garb,  and  bravery  he  emulates 
— with  all  that  is  gallant  and  glorious  in  the  white  man.  And 
then  the  indulgence  with  which  he  treats  her,  the  finery  in 
which  he  decks  her  out,  the  state  in  which  she  moves,  the  sway 
eho  enjoys  over  both  liis  purse  and  person ;  instead  of  being 
the  drudge  and  slave  of  an  Indian  husband,  obliged  to  carry 
his  pack,  and  build  his  lodge,  and  make  his  fire,  and  bear  his 
cross  humors  and  dry  blows.  No;  there  is  no  comparison  in 
the  eyes  of  an  aspiring  belle  of  the  wilderness,  between  a  free 
trapper  and  an  Indian  brave. 

With  respect  to  one  of  the  parties  the  matter  was  easily  ar- 
ranged. The  beauty  in  question  was  a  pert  little  Eutaw  wench, 
that  had  been  taken  prisoner,  in  some  war  excursion,  by  a 
Shoshonie.  She  was  readily  ransomed  for  a  few  articles  of 
trifling  value ;  and  forthwith  figured  about  the  camp  in  fine 
array,  "with  rings  on  her  fingers,  and  bells  on  her  toes,"  and 
a  tossed-up  coquettish  air  that  made  her  the  envy,  admiration, 
and  abhorrence  of  all  the  leathern-dressed,  hard-working 
squaws  of  her  acquaintance. 

As  to  the  other  beauty,  it  was  quite  a  different  matter.  She 
had  become  the  wife  of  a  Shoshonie  brave.  It  is  tnie,  he  had 
another  wife,  of  older  date  than  the  one  in  question;  who, 
therefore,  took  command  in  his  household,  and  treated  his  new 
spouse  as  a  slave ;  but  the  latter  was  the  wife  of  his  last  fancy, 
his  latest  caprice ;  and  was  precious  in  his  eyes.  All  attempt 
to  bargain  with  him,  therefore,  was  useless;  the  very  proposi- 


286         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

tion  was  repulsed  with  anger  and  disdain.  The  spirit  of  the 
trapper  was  roused,  his  pride  was  piqued  as  well  as  his  passion. 
He  endeavored  to  i^revail  upon  his  quondam  mistress  to  elope 
witli  him.  His  horses  were  fleet,  the  winter  nights  were  long 
and  dark,  before  daylight  they  would  be  beyond  the  reach  of 
pursuit ;  and  once  at  the  encampment  in  Green  River  valley, 
they  might  set  the  whole  band  of  Shoshonies  at  defiance. 

The  Indian  girl  listened  and  longed.  Her  heart  yearned 
after  the  ease  and  splendor  of  condition  of  a  trapper's  bride, 
and  throbbed  to  be  freed  fi-om  the  capricious  control  of  the 
premier  squaw ;  but  she  dreaded  the  failure  of  the  plan,  and 
the  fury  of  a  Shoshonie  husband.  They  parted;  the  Indian 
girl  in  tears,  and  the  madcap  trapper  more  mad  than  ever, 
with  his  thwarted  passion. 

Their  interviews  had,  probably,  been  detected,  and  the  jeal- 
ousy of  the  Shoshonie  brave  aroused :  a  clamor  of  angry  voices 
was  heard  in  his  lodge,  with  the  sound  of  blows,  and  of  female 
weeping  and  lameating.  At  night,  as  the  trapper  lay  tossing 
on  his  paUet,  a  soft  voice  whispered  at  the  door  of  his  lodge. 
His  mistress  stood  trembling  before  him.  She  was  ready  to 
follow  whithersoever  he  should  lead. 

In  an  instant  he  was  up  and  out.  He  had  two  prime  horses, 
sure  and  swift  of  foot,  and  of  great  wind.  With  stealthy  quiet, 
they  were  brought  up  and  saddled ;  and  in  a  few  moments  he 
and  his  prize  were  careering  over  the  snow,  with  which  the 
whole  country  was  covered.  In  the  eagerness  of  escape,  they 
had  made  no  provision  for  their  journey ;  days  must  elapse  be- 
fore they  could  reach  their  haven  of  safety,  and  mountains 
and  prairies  be  traversed,  wrapped  in  aU  the  desolation  of 
winter.  For  the  present,  however,  they  thought  of  nothing 
but  flight ;  urging  their  horses  forward  over  the  di-eary  wastes, 
and  fancying,  in  the  howling  of  every  blast,  they  heard  the 
yeU  of  the  pursuer. 

At  early  dawn,  the  Shoshonie  became  aware  of  his  loss. 
Mounting  his  swiftest  horse,  he  set  oft"  in  hot  pursuit.  He  soon 
found  the  trafl  of  the  fugitives,  and  spurred  on  in  hopes  of 
overtaking  them.  The  winds,  however,  which  swept  the  val- 
ley, had  drifted  the  light  snow  into  the  prints  made  by  the 
horses'  hoofs.  In  a  little  while  he  lost  aU  trace  of  them,  and 
was  completely  thrown  out  of  the  chase.  He  knew,  however, 
the  situation  of  the  camp  toward  which  they  were  bound,  and 
a  direct  course  through  the  mountains,  by  which  he  might 
arrive  there  sooner  than  the  fugitives.     Through  the  most 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         287 

rugged  defiles,  therefore,  he  urged  his  course  by  day  and  night, 
scarce  pausing  until  he  reached  the  camp.  It  was  some  time 
before  the  fugitives  made  their  appearance.  Six  days  had 
they  been  traversing  the  wintry  wilds.  They  came,  haggard 
with  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  their  horses  faltering  under  them. 
The  first  object  that  met  their  eyes  on  entering  the  camp  was 
the  Shoshonie  brave.  He  inashed,  knife  in  hand,  to  plunge  it 
in  the  heart  that  had  proved  false  to  him.  The  trapper  threw 
himself  before  the  cowering  form  of  his  mistress,  and,  exhaust- 
ed as  he  was,  prepared  for  a  deadly  struggle.  The  Shoshonie 
paused.  His  habitual  awe  of  the  white  man  checked  his  arm ; 
the  trapper's  friends  crowded  to  the  spot,  and  arrested  him. 
A  parley  ensued.  A  kind  of  crim.  con.  adjudication  took  place ; 
such  as  frequently  occurs  in  civilized  lite.  A  couple  of  horses 
were  declared  to  be  a  fair  compensation  for  the  loss  of  a  woman 
who  had  previously  lost  her  heart ;  with  this,  the  Shoshonie 
brave  was  fain  to  pacify  his  passion.  He  returned  to  Captain 
Bonneville's  camp,  somewhat  crestfallen,  it  is  true ;  but  parried 
the  officious  condolements  of  his  friends  by  obsei'vmg  that  two 
good  horses  were  very  good  pay  for  one  bad  wife. 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

BREAKING  UP  OP  WINTER  QUARTERS — MOVE  TO  GREEN  RIVER — 
A  TRAPPER  AND  HIS  RIFLE— AN  ARRIVAL  IN  CAMP— A  FREE 
TRAPPER  AND  HIS  SQUAW  IN  DISTRESS— STORY  OF  A  BLACK- 
FOOT  BELLE. 

The  winter  was  now  breaking  up.  the  snows  were  molted 
from  the  hills,  and  from  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountains,  and 
the  time  for  decamping  had  arrived.  Captain  Bonneville  dis- 
patched a  party  to  the  caches,  who  brought  away  all  the  elfocts 
concealed  there,  and  on  the  1st  of  April  (1835),  the  camp  was 
broken  up,  and  every  one  on  the  move.  The  white  men  and 
their  aUies,  the  Eutaws  and  Shoshonies,  parted  with  many  re- 
grets and  sincere  expressions  of  good-will;  for  their  inter- 
course throughout  the  winter  had  been  of  the  most  friendlj* 
kind. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  passed  by  ITam's  Fork, 
and  reached  the  Colorado,  or  Green  River,  without  accident. 


288         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

on  the  banks  of  which  they  remained  during  the  residue  of  the 
spring.  During  this  time,  they  were  conscious  that  a  band  of 
hostile  Indians  were  hovering  about  their  vicimty,  watching 
for  an  opportunity  to  slay  or  steal ;  but  the  vigilant  precau- 
tions of  Captain  Bonneville  baffled  all  their  nianosuvrcs.  In 
such  dangerous  times,  the  experienced  mountaineer  is  never 
without  his  rifle  even  in  camp.  On  going  from  lodge  to  lodge 
to  visit  his  comrades,  he  takes  it  with  Mm.  On  seating  him- 
self in  a  lodge,  he  lays  it  beside  him,  ready  to  bo  snatched  up ; 
when  he  goes  out,  he  takes  it  up  as  regularly  as  a  citizen  would 
his  walking-staff.     His  rifle  is  his  constant  friend  and  protector. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  the  party  were  a  httle  to  the  east  of 
the  Wind  River  Mountains,  where  they  halted  tor  a  time  in 
excellent  pasturage,  to  give  their  horses  a  chance  to  recruit 
their  strength  for  a  long  journey ;  for  it  was  Captain  Bonne- 
viUe's  intention  to  shape  his  course  to  the  settlements ;  having 
already  been  detained  by  the  complication  of  Ms  duties,  and  by 
various  losses  and  impediments,  far  beyond  the  time  specified 
in  his  leave  of  absence. 

Whfle  the  party  was  thus  reposing  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Wind  River  ^Mountains,  a  solitary  free  trapper  rode  one 
day  into  the  camp,  and  accosted  Captain  Bonneville.  He  be- 
longed, he  said,  to  a  party  of  thirty  hunters,  who  had  just 
passed  through  the  neighborhood,  but  whom  he  had  aban- 
doned in  consequence  of  their  iU  treatment  of  a  brother 
trapper;  whom  they  had  cast  off  from  their  part^*,  and  left 
with  Ms  bag  and  baggage,  and  an  Indian  wife  into  the 
bargain,  in  the  midst  of  a  desolate  prairie.  The  horseman 
gave  a  piteous  account  of  the  situation  of  this  helpless  pair, 
and  sohcited  the  loan  of  horses  to  bring  them  and  their  effects 
to  the  camp. 

The  captain  was  not  a  man  to  refuse  assistance  to  any  one 
in  distress,  especially  when  tliere  was  a  woman  in  the  case ; 
horses  were  immediately  dispatched,  with  an  escort,  to  aid  the 
imfortunate  couple.  The  next  day  they  made  their  appear- 
ance with  all  their  effects ;  the  man,  a  stalwart  mountaineer, 
with  a  peculiarly  game  look ;  the  woman,  a  young  Blackfoot 
beauty,  arraved  in  the  trappings  and  trmketry  of  a  free 
trapper's  Lride. 

Finding  the  woman  to  be  quick-witted  and  communicative. 
Captain  Bonneville  entered  into  conversation  with  her,  and 
obtained  from  her  many  particulars  concerning  the  habits  and 
customs  of   her  tribe;   especially  their   wars  and  huntings. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         289 

They  prido  themselves  upon  being  the  'best  legs  of  the 
mountains,"  and  hunt  the  bufluilo  on  foot.  This  is  done  in 
spring  time,  Avhen  the  frosts  have  thawed  and  the  ground  is 
soft.  The  heavy  butfalo  then  sink  over  their  hoofs  at  every 
step,  and  are  easily  overtaken  by  the  Blackfeet.  whose  fleet 
steps  press  lightly  on  the  surface.  It  is  said,  however,  that 
the  buffalo  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are 
fleeter  and  more  active  than  on  the  Atlantic  side :  those  upon 
the  plains  of  the  Columbia  can  scarcely  be  overtaken  by  a 
horse  that  would  outstrip  the  same  animal  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Platte,  the  usual  hunting  ground  of  the  Blackfeet, 
In  the  com'se  of  further  conversation,  Captain  Bonneville 
drew  from  the  Indian  woman  her  whole  story ;  wliich  gave  a 
picture  of  savage  life,  and  of  the  drudgery  and  hardships  to 
which  an  Indian  wife  is  subject. 

"I  was  the  wife,"  said  she,  "of  a  Blackfoot  Avarrior,  and  I 
served  him  faithfully.  Who  was  so  well  served  as  he? 
Whose  lodge  was  so  well  jjroviaed,  or  kept  so  clean?  I 
brought  wood  in  the  morning,  and  placed  water  always  at 
hand.  I  watched  for  his  coming;  and  he  found  his  meat 
cooked  and  ready.  If  he  rose  to  go  forth,  there  was  nothing 
to  delay  him.  I  searched  the  thought  that  was  in  his  heart, 
to  save  him  the  trouble  of  speaking.  When  T  went  abroad  on 
errands  for  him,  the  chiefs  £md  warriors  smiled  upon  mo,  and 
the  young  braves  spoke  soft  tnings,  m  secret ;  but  my  feet  were 
in  the  straight  path,  and  my  eyes  could  see  nothing  Init  hhn. 

"When  he  went  out  to  hunt,  or  to  war,  who  aided  to  equip 
him,  but  I?  When  he  retunied,  I  met  him  at  the  door;  I  took 
his  gim ;  and  he  entered  without  further  thought.  While  be 
sat  and  smoked,  I  unloaded  his  horses;  tied  them  to  the 
stakes,  brought  in  their  loads,  and  was  quickly  at  his  feet.  If 
his  moccasins  were  wet  I  took  them  off  and  put  on  others 
which  were  dry  and  warm.  I  dressed  all  the  skins  he  had 
taken  in  the  chase.  He  could  never  say  to  me,  why  is  it  not 
done?  lie  bunted  the  deer,  the  antttlo])e,  and  tlie  buffalo,  and 
he  watched  for  the  enemy.  Everything  else  was  done  by  me. 
When  our  people  moved  their  camp,  he  mounted  his  horse 
and  rode  away;  free  as  though  he  had  fallen  from  the  skies. 
He  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  labor  of  the  camp;  it  was  I 
that  packed  the  horses  and  led  them  on  the  journey.  When 
we  halted  in  the  evening,  and  he  sat  with  the  other  braves  and 
smoked,  it  was  I  that  pitched  his  lodge;  and  when  he  came  to 
eat  and  sleep,  liis  supper  and  his  bed  were  ready. 


290         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

"I  served  liim  faithfully;  and  what  was  my  reward?  A 
cloud  was  always  on  his  brow,  and  sharp  lightning  on  liis 
tongue.     I  was  his  dog;  and  not  his  wife. 

"  Who  was  it  that  scarred  and  bruised  me?  It  was  he.  My 
brother  saw  how  I  was  treated.  His  heart  was  big  for  me. 
He  begged  me  to  leave  my  tyrant  and  fly.  Where  could  I  go'« 
If  retaken,  who  would  protect  me?  My  brother  was  not  a 
chiel:";  he  could  not  save  me  froni  blows  and  wounds,  perhaps 
death.  At  length  I  was  persuaded.  I  followed  my  brother 
from  the  village.  He  pointed  away  to  the  NezPerces,  and  bade 
me  go  and  Uve  m  peace  r.niong  them.  We  parted.  On  the  third 
day  I  saw  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces  before  me.  I  paused 
for  a  moment,  and  had  no  heart  to  go  on;  but  my  horse 
neighed,  and  I  took  it  as  a  good  sign,  and  suffered  him  to 
gallop  forward.  In  a  little  while  I  was  in  the  midst  of  the 
lodges.  As  I  sat  silent  on  my  horse,  the  people  gathered 
round  me,  and  inquired  whence  I  came.  I  told  my  story.  A 
chief  now  wrapped  his  blanket  close  around  hun,  and  bade  me 
dismount.  I  obeyed.  He  took  my  horse  to  lead  him  away. 
My  heart  grew  small  within  me.  I  felt,  on  parting  with  my 
horse,  as  ii  my  last  friend  was  gone.  I  had  no  words,  and  my 
eyes  were  dry.  As  he  led  off  my  horse  a  young  brave  stepped 
forAvard.  'Are  you  a  chief  of  the  people?'  cried  he.  'Do  we 
listen  to  you  in  council,  and  follow  you  in  battle?  Behold!  a 
stranger  flies  to  our  camp  from  the  dogs  of  Blackfeet,  and  asks 
protection.  Let  shame  cover  your  face!  The  stranger  is  a 
woman,  and  alone.  If  she  were  a  warrior,  or  had  a  warrior 
by  her  side,  your  heart  would  not  be  big  enough  to  take  her 
horse.  But  he  is  you?s.  By  the  right  of  war  you  may  claim 
him ;  but  look !  '—his  bow  was  drawn,  and  the  arrow  ready ! — 
'you  never  shall  cross  his  back ! '  The  an*ow  pierced  the  heart 
of  the  horse,  and  he  fell  dead. 

''  An  old  woman  said  she  would  be  my  mother.  She  led  me 
to  her  lodge;  my  heart  was  thawed  by  her  kindness,  and 
my  eyes  burst  forth  wath  tears ;  like  the  frozen  fountains  in 
springtime.  She  never  changed;  but  as  the  days  passed 
away,  was  still  a  mother  to  me.  The  people  were  loud  in 
praise  of  the  young  brave,  and  the]  chief  was  ashamed.  I 
lived  in  peace. 

"A  party  of  trappers  came  to  the  village,  and  one  of  them 
took  me  for  his  wife.  Tliis  is  he.  I  am  very  happy ;  he  treats 
me  with  kindness,  and  I  have  taught  him  the  language  of  my 
people.    As  we  were  travelling  this  way,  some  of  the  Black' 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BOANh'VlLLK         291 

feet  vrK.rriors  beset  us.  nn-i  carried  off  the  horses  of  the  party. 
We  followed,  and  my  husband  lield  a  parley  with  theni.  The 
guns  were  laid  down,  and  the  pipe  was  lighted ;  but  some  ot 
the  white  men  attempted  to  seize  the  horses  by  force,  and 
then  a  battle  began.  The  snow  was  deep ;  the  white  men  sank 
into  it  at  every  step ;  but  the  red  men,  with  their  snow-shoes, 
passed  over  the  surface  like  birds,  and  drove  off  many  of  the 
horses  in  sight  of  their  owners.  With  those  that  remained  we 
resumed  our  journey.  At  length  words  took  place  between 
the  loader  of  the  party  and  my  husband.  He  took  away  our 
horses,  which  had  escaped  in  the  battle,  and  turned  us  from 
his  camp.  My  husband  had  one  good  friend  among  the 
trappers.  That  is  he  (pointing  to  the  man  who  had  asked 
assistance  for  them).  He  is  a  good  man.  His  heart  is  big. 
When  he  came  in  from  hunting,  and  found  that  we  had  been 
driven  away,  he  gave  up  all  his  wages,  and  followed  us,  that 
he  might  speak  good  words  for  us  to  the  white  captain." 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

RENDEZVOUS  AT  WIND  RIVER — CAMPAIGN  OP  MONTERO  AND  HIS 
BRIGADE  IN  THE  CROW  COUNTRY  —  WARS  BETWEEN  THE 
CROWS  AND  BLACKFEET— DEATH  OF  ARAPOOISH — BLACKFEET 
LURKERS  —  SAGACITY  OF  THE  HORSE  —  DEPENDENCE  OP  THE 
HUNTER  ON  HIS  HORSE— RETURN  TO  THE  SETTLEMENTS. 

On  the  22d  of  June  Captain  Bonneville  raised  his  camp, 
and  moved  to  the  forks  of  Wind  River;  the  appointed  place  of 
rendezvous.  In  a  few  days  he  was  joined  there  by  the 
brigade  of  Montero,  which  had  been  sent,  in  the  preceding 
year,  to  beat  up  the  Crow  country,  and  afterward  proceed  to 
the  Arkansas.  Montero  had  followed  the  early  part  of  his 
instru(;tions ;  after  trapping  upon  some  of  the  upper  streams, 
he  proceeded  to  Powder  River.  Here  he  fell  in  with  the  Crow 
villages  or  bands,  who  treated  him  with  imusual  kindness, 
and  prevailed  upon  liim  to  take  up  his  winter  quarters  among 
them. 

The  Crows  at  that  time  were  stiiiggling  almost  for  existence 
with  their  old  enemies,  the  Blackfeet ;  who,  in  the  past  year, 
had  picked  off  the  flower  of  their  wai'riors  in  various  engage- 


292         ADVKNTURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

ments,  and  among  the  rest,  Arapooish,  the  friend  of  the  white 
men.  That  sagacious  and  magnanimous  chief  had  beheld, 
with  grief,  the  ravages  which  war  was  making  in  his  tribe, 
and  that  it  was  declining  in  force,  and  must  eventually  be 
destroyed  unless  some  signal  blow  could  be  struck  to  retrieve 
its  fortunes.  In  a  pitched  battle  of  the  two  tribes,  he  made  a 
speech  to  his  warriors,  urging  them  to  set  everything  at 
hazai'd  in  one  furious  charge ;  which  done,  he  led  the  v/ay  into 
the  thickest  of  the  foe.  He  was  soon  separated  from  his  men, 
and  fell  covered  with  wounds,  but  his  self-devotion  was  not  in 
vain.  The  Blackf eet  were  defeated ;  and  from  that  time  the 
Crows  plucked  up  fresh  heart,  and  were  frequently  successful, 

Montero  had  not  been  long  encamped  among  them,  when  he 
discovered  that  the  Blackf  eet  were  hovering  about  the  neigh- 
borhood. One  day  the  hunters  came  galloping  into  the  camp, 
and  proclaimed  that  a  band  of  the  enemy  was  at  hand.  The 
Crows  flew  to  arms,  leaped  on  their  horses,  and  dashed  out  in 
squadrons  in  pursuit.  They  overtook  the  retreating  enemy  in 
the  midst  of  a  plain.  A  desperate  fight  ensued.  The  Crows 
had  the  advantage  of  numbers,  and  of  fighting  on  horseback. 
The  greater  part  of  the  Blackfeet  were  slain ;  the  remnant  took 
shelter  in  a  close  thicket  of  willows,  where  the  horse  could  not 
enter ;  whence  they  plied  their  bows  vigorously. 

The  Crows  drew  off  out  of  bow-shot,  and  endeavored,  by 
taunts  and  bravadoes,  to  draw  the  warriors  out  of  their 
retreat,  A  few  of  the  best  mounted  among  them  rode  apart 
from  the  f est.  One  of  their  number  then  advanced  alone,  Avith 
that  martial  air  and  equestrian  grace  for  which  the  tribe  is 
noted.  When  within  an  arrow's  flight  of  the  thicket,  he 
loosened  his  rein,  urged  his  horse  to  full  speed,  threw  his  body 
on  the  opposite  side,  so  as  to  hang  by  but  one  leg,  and  present 
no  mark  to  the  foe ;  in  this  way  he  swept  along  in  front  of  the 
thicket,  launching  his  arrows  from  under  the  neck  of  his 
steed.  Then  regaining  his  seat  in  the  saddle,  he  wheeled 
round  and  returned  whooping  and  scoffing  to  his  companions, 
who  received  him  with  yells  of  applause. 

Another  and  another  horseman  repeated  this  exploit;  but 
the  Blackfeet  were  not  to  be  taunted  out  of  their  safe  shelter. 
The  victors  feared  to  drive  desperate  men  to  extremities,  so 
they  forbore  to  attempt  the  thicket.  Toward  night  they  gave 
over  the  attack,  and  returned  all-glorious  with  the  scalps  of 
the  slain.  Then  came  on  the  usual  feasts  and  triumphs ;  the 
scalp-dance  of  warriors  round  the  ghastly  trophies,  and  all 


ADVKNrURKS  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNKVILLE.         293 

the  other  fierce  revehy  of  barbarous  warfare.  When  the 
braves  had  finished  with  the  scalps,  they  were,  as  usual,  given 
up  to  the  women  and  children,  and  made  the  objects  of  new 
parades  and  dances.  They  were  then  treasured  up  as  invalu- 
able trophies  and  decorations  by  the  bi'aves  who  had  won 
them. 

It  is  worthy  of  note,  that  the  scalp  of  a  white  man,  either 
through  policy  or  fear,  is  treated  with  more  charity  than  that 
of  an  Indian.  The  warrior  who  won  it  is  entitled  to  his 
triumph  if  he  demands  it.  In  such  case,  the  war  party  alone 
dance  round  the  scalp.  It  is  then  taken  down,  and  the  shag- 
ged frontlet  of  a  buffalo  substituted  in  its  place,  and  aban- 
doned to  the  ti'iumphs  and  insults  of  the  million. 

To  avoid  being  involved  in  these  guei-illas,  as  well  as  to 
escape  from  the  extremely  social  intercourse  of  the  Crows, 
which  began  to  be  oppressive,  Montero  moved  to  the  distance 
of  several  miles  from  their  camps,  and  there  formed  a  winter 
cantonment  of  huts.  He  no\v'  maintained  a  vigilant  watch  at 
night.  Their  horses,  which  were  turned  loose  to  graze  during 
the  day,  under  heedful  eyes,  were  brought  in  at  night,  and 
shut  up  in  strong  pens,  built  of  large  logs  of  cotton-wood. 
The  snows,  during  a  portion  of  the  winter,  were  so  deep  that 
the  poor  anmials  could  find  but  little  sustenance.  Here  and 
there  a  tuft  of  grass  would  peer  above  the  snow;  but  they 
were  in  general  driven  to  browse  the  twigs  and  tender 
branches  of  the  trees.  When  they  were  turned  out  in  the 
morning,  the  first  moments  of  freedom  from  the  confinement 
of  the  pen  were  spent  in  frisking  and  gambolling.  Tliis  done, 
they  went  soberly  and  sadly  to  work,  to  glean  their  scanty 
subsistence  for  the  day.  In  the  meantime  the  men  stripped 
the  bark  of  the  cotton-wood  tree  for  the  evening  fodder.  As 
the  poor  horses  would  return  toward  night,  with  sluggish  and 
dispirited  air,  the  moment  they  saw  their  owners  .\pproaching 
them  "vvith  blankets  filled  with  cotton-wood  bark,  their  whole 
demeanor  underwent  a  change.  A  universal  neigliing  and 
capering  took  place;  they  would  rush  forward,  smell  to  the 
blankets,  paw  the  earth,  snort,  whinny  and  prance  round 
with  head  and  tail  ei-ect,  until  the  blankets  were  opened,  and 
the  welcome  provender  spread  before  them.  These  evidences 
of  inteUigence  and  gladness  were  frequently  recounted  by  the 
trappers  as  proving  the  sagacity  of  the  animal. 

These  veteran  rovers  of  the  mountains  look  upon  their 
horses  as  in  some  respects  gifted  with  almost  human  intellect. 


204        ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

An  old  and  experienced  trapper,  when  mounting  guard  upon 
the  canip  in  dark  nights  and  times  of  peril,  gives  heedful 
attention  to  aU  the  sounds  and  signs  of  the  horses.  No  enemy- 
enters  nor  approaches  the  camp  without  attracting  their 
notice,  and  their  movements  not  only  give  a  vague  alarm,  but 
it  is  said,  wiU  even  indicate  to  the  knowing  trapper  the  very 
quarter  whence  the  danger  threatens. 

In  the  daytime,  too,  while  a  hunter  is  engaged  on  the 
prairie,  cutting  up  the  deer  or  buffalo  he  has  slain,  he  denends 
upon  his  faithful  horse  as  a  sentinel.  The  sagacious  animal 
sees  and  smells  all  round  hun,  and  by  his  starting  and  whinny- 
ing, gives  notice  of  the  approach  of  strangers.  There  seems  to 
be  a  dumb  communion  and  fellowship,  a  sort  of  fraternal  sym- 
pathy between  the  hunter  and  his  hoi'se.  They  mutually  rely 
upon  each  other  for  company  and  protection ;  and  nothing  is 
more  difficult,  it  is  said,  than  to  surprise  an  experienced  hun- 
ter on  the  prairie,  while  his  old  and  favorite  steed  is  at  his  side. 

Montero  had  not  long  removed  his  camp  from  the  vicinity  of 
the  Crows,  and  fixed  himself  in  his  new  quarters,  when  the 
Blackfeet  marauders  discovered  his  cantonment,  and  began  to 
haunt  the  vicinity.  He  kept  up  a  vigilant  watch,  however, 
and  foUed  every  attempt  of  the  enemy,  who,  at  length,  seemed 
to  have  given  up  in  despair,  and  abandoned  the  neighborhood. 
The  trappers  relaxed  their  vigilance,  therefore,  and  one  night, 
after  a  day  of  severe  labor,  no  guards  were  posted,  and  the 
whole  camp  was  soon  asleep.  Toward  midnight,  however,  the 
lightest  sleepers  were  roused  by  the  trampling  of  "feoofs ;  and, 
giving  the  alarm,  the  whole  party  were  immediately  on  their 
legs  and  hastened  to  the  pens.  The  bars  were  flown ;  but  no 
enemy  was  to  be  seen  or  heard,  and  tlie  'norses  iDeing  all  found 
hard  by,  it  was  supposed  the  bars  had  been  left  down  through 
negligence.  All  were  once  more  asleep,  when,  in  ahout  an 
hour  there  was  a  second  alarm,  and  it  was  discovered  that 
several  horses  were  missing.  The  rest  were  mounted,  and  so 
spirited  a  pursuit  took  place,  that  eighteen  of  the  number 
carried  off  were  regained,  and  but  three  remained  in  pos- 
session of  the  enemy.  Traps  for  wolves,  had  been  set  about 
the  camp  the  preceding  day.  In  the  morning  it  was  dis- 
covered that  a  Blackfoot  was  entrapped  by  one  of  them,  but 
had  succeeded  in  dragging  it  off.  His  trail  was  followed  for  a 
long  distance,  which  he  must  have  hmped  alone.  At  length 
he  appeared  to  have  fallen  in  with  some  of  his  comrades,  who 
had  volicved  him  from  his  painful  incumbrance. 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         295 

These  were  the  leading  incidents  of  Montero's  campaign  in 
the  Crow  country.  The  united  parties  noAv  celebrated  the  4th 
of  July,  m  rough  hunters'  style,  with  hearty  conviviality; 
after  which  Captain  Bonneville  made  his  final  arrangements. 
Leaving  Moutero  Avith  a  brigade  of  trappers  to  open  anotboi- 
campaign,  he  put  liimself  at  the  head  of  the  residue  of  lus 
men,  and  set  olf  on  his  return  to  civilized  life.  We  shall  not 
detail  his  journey  along  the  course  of  the  Nebraska,  and  so, 
from  point  to  point  of  the  wilderness,  until  ho  and  his  band 
reached  the  frontier  settlements  on  the  22d  oC  August. 

Here,  according  to  his  own  account,  his  cavalcade  might 
have  boon  taken  for  a  procession  of  tatterdemalion  savages ; 
for  the  men  were  ragged  almost  to  nakedness,  and  had  con- 
tracted a  wildness  of  aspect  during  three  years  of  wandering 
in  the  wilderness.  A  few  hoiu-s  in  a  populous  town,  however, 
produced  a  magical  metamorphosis.  Hats  of  the  most  ample 
brim  and  longest  nap ;  coats  with  buttons  that  shone  like  mir- 
rors, and  pantaloons  of  the  most  ample  plenitude,  took  place 
of  the  well-worn  trapper's  equipnients ;  and  the  happy  wearers 
might  be  seen  strolling  about  in  all  directions,  scattering  their 
silver  like  sailors  just  from  a  cruise. 

The  worthy  captain,  however,  seems  by  no  means  to  have 
shared  the  excitement  of  his  men,  on  finding  himself  once 
more  in  the  thronged  resorts  of  civilized  life,  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, to  have  looked  back  to  the  wilderness  with  regret. 
"Tbough  the  prospect,"  says  he,  "of  once  more  tasting  the 
blessings  of  peaceful  society,  and  passing  days  and  nights 
under  the  calm  guardianship  of  the  laws,  was  not  without  its 
attractions ;  yet  to  those  of  us  whoso  whole  lives  had  been  spent 
m  the  stirring  excitement  and  perpetiial  watchfulness  of  ad- 
ventures in  the  wilderness,  the  change  was  far  from  ]iromising 
an  increase  of  that  contentment  and  mward  satisfaction  most 
conducive  to  happiness.  He  who.  like  myself,  has  roved  al- 
most from  boyhood  among  the  children  of  the  forest,  and  over 
the  un furrowed  plains  and  rugged  heights  of  the  western 
wastes,  will  not  be  startled  to  learn,  that  notwithstanding  all 
the  fascinations  of  the  world  on  this  civilized  side  of  the  moim- 
tains,  I  would  fain  make  my  bow  to  the  splendors  and  gnyeties 
of  the  metropolis,  and  plunge  again  amid  the  haidships  and 
perils  of  the  wilderness." 

We  have  only  to  add  that  the  affairs  of  the  captain  have 
been  satisfactorily  arranged  with  the  War  Department,  and 
that  he  is  actually  in  service  at  Fort  Gibson,  on  our  western 


O06         ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 

frontier,  where  we  hope  he  may  meet  with  further  oppor- 
tunities of  indulging  his  peculiar  tastes,  and  of  collecting 
graphic  and  characteristic  details  of  the  great  western  wilds 
and  their  motley  inhabitants. 


We  here  close  our  picturings  of  the  Eocky  Mountains  and 
their  wild  inhabitants,  and  of  the  wild  life  that  prevails  there ; 
which  we  have  been  anxious  to  fix  on  record,  because  we  are 
aware  that  this  singular  state  of  things  is  full  of  mutation, 
and  must  soon  undergo  great  changes,  if  not  entirely  pass 
away.  The  fur  trade  itself,  which  has  given  life  to  all  this 
portraiture,  is  essentially  evanescent.  '  Rival  parties  of  trap- 
pers soon  exhaust  the  streams,  especially  when  competition 
renders  them  heedless  and  wasteful  of  the  beaver.  The  fur- 
bearing  animals  extinct,  a  complete  change  will  come  over  the 
scene ;  the  gay  free  trapper  and  his  steed,  decked  out  in  wild 
array,  and  tinkling  Avith  bells  and  trink^ry ;  the  savage  war 
chief,  plumed  and  painted  and  ever  on  the  prowl;  the  traders' 
cavalcade,  winding  through  defiles  or  over  naked  plains,  with 
the  stealthy  war  party  lurking  on  its  trail ;  the  buffalo  chase, 
the  hunting  camp,  the  mad  earouse  in  the  midst  of  danger, 
the  night  attack,  the  stampado,  the  scamper,  the  fierce  skir- 
mish among  rocks  and  cliffs — all  this  romance  of  savage  life, 
which  yet  exists  among  the  mountains,  will  then  exist  but  in 
frontier  story,  and  seem  Kke  the  fictions  of  chivalry  or  fairy 
tale. 

Some  new  system  of  things,  or  rather  some  new  modifica- 
tion, will  succeed  among  the  roving  people  of  this  vast  wilder- 
ness ;  but  just  as  opposite,  perhaps,  to  the  inhabitants  of  civili- 
zation. The  great  Chippewyan  chain  of  mountains,  and  the 
sapdy  and  volcanic  plains  which  extend  on  either  side,  are 
represented  as  incapable  of  cultivation.  The  pasturage  which 
prevails  there  during  a  certain  portion  of  the  year,  soon 
Avithers  under  the  aridity  of  the  atmosphere,  and  leaves  noth- 
ing but  dreary  Avastes.  Aa  immense  belt  of  rocky  mountains 
and  A'olcanic  plains,  several  hundred  miles  in  Avidth,  must  ever 
i-emnin  an  irreclaima'ble  wilderness,  inter\"enlng  bctAveen  the 
abodes  of  civilization,  and  affording  a  last  refuge  to  the 
Indian.  Here  roA'ing  tribes  of  hunters,  living  in  tents  or 
lodg2s,  and  folloAA'ing  the  migrations  of  the  game,  may  lead  a 
life  or  saA'age  independence,  where  there  is  nothing  to  tempt 
the  cupidity  of  the  Avliite  man.    The  amalgamation  of  various 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE.         297 

tribes,  and  of  white  men  of  every  nation,  will  in  time  produce 
hybrid  races  like  the  mountain  Tartars  of  the  Caucasus. 
Possessed  as  they  are  of  immense  droves  of  horses,  should 
they  continue  their  present  predatory  and  warlike  habits, 
they  may  in  time  become  a  scourge  to  the  civilized  frontiers 
on  either  side  of  the  mountains,  as  they  are  at  present  a  ter- 
ror to  the  traveller  and  trader. 

The  facts  disclosed  in  the  present  work  clearly  manifest  the 
policy  of  establishing  military  posts  and  a  mounted  force  to 
protect  our  traders  in  their  journeys  across  the  great  western 
wilds,  and  of  pushing  the  outposts  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
singular  wilderness  we  have  laid  open,  so  as  to  maintain  some 
degree  of  sway  over  the  country,  and  to  put  an  end  to  the  kind 
of  "blackmail,"  levied  on  all  occasions  by  the  savage  "  chivaliy 
of  the  mountains." 


APPENDIX. 


NATHANIEL  J.  WYETH  AND  THE  TRADE  OF  THE  FAR  WEST. 

Wk  have  brought  Captahi  Bonneville  to  the  end  of  his  western  campaigning;  yet 
we  cannot  close  this  work  without  subjoining  some  particulars  concerning  the  for- 
tunes of  his  contemporary,  Mr.  Wyeth;  anecdotes  of  whose  enterprise  have,  occa- 
sionally, been  interwoven  in  the  party-colored  web  of  our  narrative.  Wyetb 
effected  his  intention  of  establisViing  a  trading  post  on  the  Portneuf,  which  he 
named  Fort  Hall.  Here,  for  the  fli'st  time,  the  American  flag  was  unfurled  to  the 
breeze  that  sweejes  the  great  naked  wastes  of  the  central  wilderness.  Leaving' 
twelve  men  here,  with  a  stock  of  goods,  to  trade  with  the  neighboring  ti'ibes,  hf 
prosecuted  his  jourue3'  to  the  Columbia,  where  he  established  another  post,  called 
Fort  Williams,  on  Wappatoo  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamut.  This  was  to  bt 
the  head  factory  of  his  company,  whence  they  were  to  cai-ry  on  their  fishing  and 
trapping  operations,  and  their  trade  with  the  interior,  and  where  they  were  to 
receive  and  dispatch  their  annual  ship. 

The  plan  of  Mr.  Wyeth  appears  to  have  been  well  concerted.  He  had  observed 
that  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  the  bands  of  free  trappers,  as  well  as  the 
Indians  west  of  the  mountains,  depended  for  their  supplies  upon  goods  brought 
from  St.  Louis;  which,  in  consequence  of  the  expenses  and  risks  of  a  long  land  car- 
riage, were  furnished  them  at  an  immense  advance  on  first  cost.  He  had  an  idea 
thai  tliey  might  be  much  more  cheaply  supplied  from  the  Pacific  side.  Horses 
would  cos^  much  less  on  the  borders  of  the  Columbia  than  at  St.  Louis;  the  trans- 
portation by  land  was  much  shorter,  and  through  a  countrj-  much  more  safe  from 
the  hostility  of  savage  tribes;  which,  on  the  route  from  and  to  St.  Louis,  annually 
cost  the  lives  of  many  men.  On  this  idea  he  grounded  his  plan.  He  combined  the 
salmon  fishery  with  the  fur  trade.  A  fortified  trading  post  was  to  be  established 
on  the  Columbia,  to  carry  on  a  trade  with  the  natives  for  salmon  and  peltries,  and 
to  fish  and  trap  on  their  own  account.  Once  a  year  a  ship  was  to  come  fi'om  the 
United  States  to  bring  out  goods  for  the  interior  trade,  and  to  take  home  the 
salmon  and  furs  which  had  been  collected.  Part  of  the  goods  thus  brought  out 
•were  to  be  dispatched  to  the  mountains  to  supply  the  trapping  companies  and  the 
Indian  tribes,  in  exchange  for  their  furs,  which  were  to  be  brought  down  to  the 
Columbia,  to  be  sent  home  in  the  next  annual  ship;  and  thus  an  annual  round  was 
to  be  kept  up.  The  profits  on  the  salmon,  it  was  expected,  would  cover  all  the 
expenses  of  the  ship,  so  that  the  goods  brought  out  and  the  furs  carried  home 
would  cost  nothing  as  to  freight. 

His  enterpri.se  was  prosecuted  with  a  spirit,  intelligence,  and  perseverance  that 
merited  success.  All  the  details  that  we  have  met  with  prove  him  to  be  no  ordinary 
man.  He  appears  to  have  the  mind  to  conceive  and  the  energy  to  execute  exten- 
sive and  striking  plans.  He  had  once  more  reared  the  American  flag  in  the  lost 
domains  of  Astoria;  and  had  he  been  enabled  to  maintain  the  footing  he  had  so 
gallantly  effected,  he  might  have  regained  for  his  country  the  opulent  trade  of  the 
Columbia,  of  which  our  statesmen  have  negligently  suffered  us  to  be  dispossessed. 

It  is  needless  to  go  into  a  detail  of  the  variety  of  accidents  and  cross-purposes 
which  caused  the  failure  of  his  scheme.  They  were  such  as  all  undertakings  of  the 
kind,  involving  combined  operations  by  sea  and  land,  are  liable  to.  What  ho  most 
wanted  was  sufficient  capital  to  enable  him  to  endure  incipient  obstacles  and 
lo.sses,  and  to  hold  on  until  success  had  time  to  spring  up  from  the  midsu  of  dis 
astrous  experiments. 


APPENDIX.  299 

It  is  with  extreme  regrret  we  learn  that  he  has  recently  been  compelled  to  dispose 
of  his  establishment  at  Wappatoo  Island  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who,  it  is 
but  justice  to  say,  have,  accoidinff  to  his  own  account,  treated  him  throughout  the 
whole  of  his  enterf>rise  with  great  fairness,  friendship,  and  liberality.  That  com- 
pany, therefore,  still  maintains  an  unrivalled  sway  over  the  whole  country  washed 
by  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries.  It  has,  in  fact,  as  far  as  its  chartered  powers 
permit,  followed  out  the  splendid  scheme  contemplated  by  Mr.  Astor  when  he 
founded  his  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  From  their  emporium  of 
Vancouver,  companies  are  sent  forth  in  every  direction,  to  supply  the  interior 
posts,  to  trade  with  the  natives  and  to  trap  upon  the  various  streams.  These 
thread  the  rivers,  traverse  the  plains,  penetrate  to  the  heart  of  the  mountains, 
extend  their  enterprises  northward  to  the  Russian  posse.ssions.  and  southward  to 
the  conftues  of  California.  Their  yearlj-  supplies  are  received  by  sea  at  Vancouver, 
and  thence  their  furs  and  peltries  are  shipped  to  London.  They  likewise  maintain 
a  considerable  commerce  in  wheat  and  lumber  with  the  Pacific  islands,  and  to  the 
north  with  the  Russian  settlements. 

Though  the  company,  by  treaty,  have  a  right  to  participation  only  in  the  trade  of 
these  region.^,  and  are  in  fact  but  tenants  on  sufferance,  yet  have  they  quietly 
availt'd  themselves  of  the  original  oversight  and  subsequent  supineness  of  the 
American  government,  to  establish  a  monojjoly  of  the  trade  of  the  river  and  its 
dependencies,  and  are  adroitly  proceeding  to  fortify  themselves  in  their  usurpa- 
tion, by  securing  all  the  strong  points  of  the  country. 

Fort  George,  originally  Astoria,  which  was  :.'>»i''.oned  on  the  removal  of  the 
main  factory  to  Vancouvei",  was  renewed  in  ISJO,  and  is  now  kept  up  as  a  fortified 
post  and  trading  house.  All  the  places  accessible  to  shipping  have  been  taken  pos- 
session of.  and  posts  recently  established  at  them  by  the  company. 

The  great  capital  of  this  association,  their  long  established  system,  their  heredi- 
tary inrtueuce  over  the  Indian  tribes,  their  internal  organization,  which  makes 
everything  go  on  with  the  regularity  of  a  machine,  and  the  low  wages  of  their 
people,  who  are  mostl}-  Canadians,  give  them  great  advantages  over  the  American 
traders;  nor  is  it  likely  the  latter  will  ever  be  able  to  maintain  any  footing  in  the 
land  imtil  the  question  of  territorial  right  is  adjusted  between  the  two  countries. 
The  sooner  that  takes  place  the  better.  It  is  a  question  too  serious  to  national 
pride,  if  not  to  national  interest,  to  be  slurred  over,  and  every  year  is  adding  to  the 
ditfleulties  which  environ  it. 

The  fur  trade,  which  is  now  the  main  object  of  enterprise  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  forms  but  a  part  of  the  real  re.sources  of  the  country.  Beside  the 
salmon  fishery  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  capable  of  being  rendered  a  considerable 
source  of  profit,  the  great  valleys  of  the  lower  country,  below  the  elevated  volcanic 
plateau,  are  calculated  to  give  su.stenance  to  countless  Hocks  and  herds,  and  to 
sustain  a  gi'eat  population  t>f  graziers  and  agriculturists. 

Such,  for  instance,  is  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Wallamut,  from  which  the  estab- 
lishment at  Vancouver  dr.aws  most  of  its  supplies.  Here  the  company  holds  mills 
and  farms,  and  has  provided  for  some  of  its  superannuated  oflicers  and  servants. 
This  valley,  above  the  falls,  is  about  fifty  miles  wide,  and  extends  a  great  distance 
to  the  south.  The  climate  is  mild,  being  shelti-red  by  lateral  ranges  of  mountains, 
while  the  soil,  for  richness,  has  been  equalled  to  the  best  of  the  3Iissouri  lands. 
The  vnlley  of  the  river  Des  Chutes  is  also  admirably  calculated  for  a  great  grazing 
country  All  the  best  horses  used  by  the  company  for  the  mountains  are  raised 
there.  The  valley  is  of  such  happy  temperature  that  grass  grows  there  throughout 
the  year,  and  cattle  may  be  left  out  to  pasture  during  the  winter.  These  valleys 
must  form  the  grand  points  of  commencement  of  the  future  settlement  of  the 
country;  but  there  must  be  many  such  enfolded  in  the  embraces  of  these  lower 
ranges  of  mountains  which,  though  at  present  they  lie  waste  and  uninhnbited.  and 
to  the  eye  of  the  trader  and  trapper  present  but  barren  wastes,  would,  lu  the  hands 
of  skilful  agriculturists  and  husbandmen,  soon  a.ssume  a  different  aspect,  and  teem 
with  waving  crops  or  be  covered  with  flocks  and  herds. 


300  APPENDIX. 

Tlie  resources  of  the  country,  too,  while  in  the  hands  of  a  company  restricted  in 
its  trade,  can  be  but  partially  called  forth,  but  in  tJae  hands  of  Americans,  enjoying 
n  direOi,  trade  with  the  East  Indies,  would  be  brouglit  into  quickenmg  activity,  and 
iiiipht  soon  realize  the  dream  of  Mr.  Astor,  in  giving  rise  to  a  flourishing  commer- 
cial empire. 

WRECK  OF  A  JAPANESE  JUNK  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 

The  following  extract  of  a  letter  which  we  received  lately  from  Mr.  Wyeth  may 
be  interesting  as  throwing  some  light  upon  the  question  as  to  the  manner  in  which 
America  has  been  peopled: 

"Are  you  aware  of  the  fact  that  in  the  winter  of  1833  a  Japanese  junk  was 
wrecked  on  the  northwest  coast,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island, 
and  that  all  but  two  of  the  crew,  then  much  reduced  by  starvation  and  disease,  dur- 
ing a  long  drift  across  the  Pacific,  were  killed  by  tlie  natives?  The  two  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  were  sent  to  England.  I  saw  them,  on 
my  arrival  at  Vancouver,  in  1834." 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  CAPTAIN    BONNEVILLE  FROM  THE  MAJOR-GENERAL 
COMMANDING  THE  ARMY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Head-Quarters  op  the  Army,        ( 
Washington,  August  3,  1831.  f 

Sir:  The  leave  of  absence  which  you  have  asked,  for  the  pui-pose  of  enabling  you 
to  carry  into  execution  your  design  of  exploring  the  country  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  beyond,  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  the  nature  and  character  of  the 
several  tribes  of  Indians  inhabiting  those  regions;  the  trade  which  might  be  profi- 
tably <'arried  on  with  them;  the  quality  of  the  soil,  the  productions,  the  minerals, 
the  natui-al  history,  the  climate,  the  geography  and  topography,  as  well  as  geology, 
of  the  various  parts  of  the  country  within  the  limits  of  the  territories  belonging  to 
the  United  States,  between  our  frontier  and  the  Pacific— has  been  duly  considered 
and  submitted  to  the  War-  Department  for  approval,  and  has  been  sanctioned. 
You  are.  therefore,  authorized  to  be  absent  from  the  army  until  October,  1833.  It 
is  understood  that  the  government  is  to  be  at  no  exijense  in  reference  to  yom"  pro- 
posed expedition,  it  having  originated  with  yom'self ;  and  all  that  you  required  was 
the  permission  from  the  proper  authority  to  undertake  ihe  enterprise.  You  will, 
natifrally.  in  preparing  youi'self  for  the  expedition,  provide  suitable  instruments, 
and  especially  the  best  maps  of  the  interior  to  be  Sound. 

It  is  desirable,  besides  what  is  enumerated  as  the  object  •f  your  enterprise,  that 
you  note  particularly  the  number  of  warriors  that  may  be  in  each  tribe  or  nation 
that  you  may  meet  with;  their  alliances  with  other  tribes,  and  their  relative  position 
as  to  a  state  of  peace  or  war,  and  whether  their  friendly  or  warlike  dispositions 
toward  each  other  are  recent  or  of  long  standing.  You  will  gratify  us  by  describ- 
ing their  manner  of  making  war;  of  the  mode  of  subsisting  themselves  during  a 
state  of  war,  and  a  state  of  peace;  their  arms,  and  the  effect  of  them;  whether  they 
act  on  foot  or  on  horseback;  detailing  the  discipline  and  manceuvres  of  the  war 
parties;  the  power  of  their  horses,  size,  and  general  description;  in  short,  every 
infoi-mation  which  you  may  conceive  would  be  useful  to  the  government. 

You  will  avail  yourself  of  every  opportunity  of  informing  us  of  your  position  and 
progress,  and,  at  the  expiration  of  your  leave  of  absence,  will  join  j-our  proper 
station.  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir. 

Your  ob't  servant, 

Alexander  Macomb, 
Major-Oeneral,  commanding  the  Army. 

Capt.  B.  L.  E.  Bonneville, 

7th  Reg't  of  Infantry,  Neto  York. 


SPANISH 


VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 


BT 


WASHINGTON    IRVING. 


CHICAGO  AND  NEW  YORK : 

BELFORD,  CLARKE  &   COMPANY, 

Publishers. 


TROW'8 

PRINTING  AND  BOOKBINDING  COMPANY, 

NEW  YORK. 


SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF   DISCOVERY. 


COj^^TE^'TS. 


PAO& 

Introduction 5 

CHAP.  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA. 

I.  Some  Account  of  Ojftfla— Of  Juan  do  la  Cosa— Of  Amerigo  Vespucci— 

Prfparatioiis  for  the  Voyaj^e  ( 149!)) .  9 

II.  Departure  from  Spain — Arrival  on  tiie  Coast  of  Paria — Customs  of  the 

Natives     18 

III.  Coast  in;?  of  Terra  Firma— Military  Expedition  of  Ojeda 15 

IV.  Discovery  of  the  Gulf  of  Venezuela — Transaction.s  there — Ojeda  explores 

the  (iulf— Penetrates  to  JIaracaibo  17 

V.  Prosecution  of  the  Voyage— Return  to  Spain 80 

PEDRO  ALONZO  NINO  AND  CHRISTOVAL  GUERRA  (1499). 

A.  D.  1499 22 

VICENTE  YANEZ   PINZON. 

A.  D.  1499 26 

DIEQO  DE   LEPE  AND  RODRIGO  DE  BASTIDES. 

A.  -3.  1500 82 

ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.    Second  Voyage. 

A.  D.  1502 35 

ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.    Tnmn  Voyage. 

I.  Ojeda  applies  for  a  Command — Has  a  rival  candidate  in  Diego  de  Nicuesa 

— His  success 41 

II.  Feud  between  the  Rival  Qovemora,  Ojeda  and  Nicuesa— A  Challenge — 

(1509) 44 

III.  Exploits  aufl  Disasters  of  Ojeda  on  the  Coast  of  Carthagena — Fate  of  the 

veteran  Juan  de  la  Cosa  (l.")09) 48 

IV.  Arrival  uf  Nicuesa — Veiifjeance  taken  on  the  Indians 52 

V.  Ojeda  founds  tlii'  Colony  of  San  Sebastian— Belea^ured  by  the  Indians 66 

VI.  Alon/.o  (le  Ojeila  supposed  by  the  Savages  to  have  a  Charmed  Life — Their 

E.xiieriiiient  to  try  the  Fact 58 

VII.  Arrival  of  a  Strange  Ship  at  San  i^ebastian  59 

VIII.  Factions  in  the  Colony— .\  Convention  made 61 

IX.  Disastrous  Voyage  of  Ojeda  in  the  Pirate  Ship -  62 

X.  Toilsome  March  of  Ojeda  and  his  Companions  through  the  Morasses  of 

('uba 64 

XI.  Ojeda  performs  his  Vow  to  the  Virg-in   66 

XII.  Arrival  of  Ojeda  at  Jamaica — His  Reception  by  Juan  de  Esquibel 67 

XIII.  Arrival  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  at  San  Domingo— Conclusion  of  his  Story 69 

DIEGO  DE  NICUESA. 

I.  Nicuesa  sails  to  the  Westward— His  Shipwreck  and  subsequent  Disasters..  72 

If.  Nictipsa  ami  his  men  on  a  desolate  Island 74 

III.  Arrival  of  a  Roat— Conduct  of  Lope  de  Olano 76 

IV.  Nicuesa  rejoins  his  Crews 77 

V.  Sufferintcs  of  Nicuesa  and  his  men  on  the  Coast  of  the  Isthmus 78 

VI.  Expedition  of  the  Bachelor  Enciso  in  search  of  the  Seat  of  Government 

of  Ojeda  (I.'IO)  81 

AHI.  The  Bachelor  hears  unwelcome  Tidings  of  his  destined  Jurisdiction 84 

Vin.  Crusade  of  the  Bachelor  Enciso  against  the  Sepulchres  of  Zenu 85 


4  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  P-i»= 

IX.  The  Bachelor  arrives  at  San  Seba^^tian— His  Disasters  there,  and  subse- 

qui'iit  E.xploits  at  Darieu 88 

X   The  Bachelor  Eiiciso  undertakes  the  Jommand— His  Downfall 90 

XL  Perplexities  at  the  Colony— Arrival  of  Colmenares 91 

XTI.  Colmenares  goes  in  quest  of  Nicuesa     92 

XIII.  Catastrophe  of  the  unfortunate  Nicuesa 95 

VASCO  NUNEZ  DE  BALBOA,  Discoverer  op  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

T.  Factions  at  Darien— Vasco  NuSez  elected  to  the  Command     99 

II.  Expedition  to  Coyba— Vasco  Nunez  receives  the  Daughter  of  a  Cacique 

as  hostage   101 

III.  Vasco  Nunez  hears  of  a  Sea  beyond  the  Mountains 104 

IV.  Expedition  of  Vasco  Nunez  in  quset  of  the  Golden  Temple  of  Dobayba.  107 
V.  Disaster  on  the  Black  River—Indian  Plot  against  Darieu Ill 

VI.  Further  Factions  in  the  Colony — Arrogance  of  Alonzo  Perez  and  the 

Bachelor  Corral  113 

Wl.  Vasco  Nunez  determines  to  seek  the  Sea  beyond  the  Mountains  (1513).  117 

VIII.  Expedition  in  que^t  of  the  Southern  Sea 118 

IX.  Discovery  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 121 

X.  Vasco  Nunez  luarclies  to  the  Shores  of  the  South  Sea 134 

XI.  Adventures  of  Vasco  Nunez  on  the  Borders  of  the  Pacific  Ocean Vi7 

XII.  Further  Ad ventm-es  and  Exploits  of  Vasco  Nunez 131 

XIII.  Vasco  Nunez  sets  out  on  his  return  across  the  Mountains— His  contests 

with  the  Savages 133 

XIV.  Enterprise  against  TubanamS.,  the  warlike  Cacique  of  the  Mountams — 

Return  to  Darien  ...    .     136 

XV.  Transactions  in  Spain— Pedrarias  Davila  appointed  to  the  Command 
of  Darien— Tidings  received  in  Spain  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Pacific 

Ocean  139 

XVI.  Arrival  and  Grand  Entry  of  Don  Pedrarias  Davila  into  Darien 144 

XVII.  Perfidious  Conduct  of  Don  Pedrarius  towards  Vasco  NuSez 147 

XVITT.  Calamities  of  thf»  Spanish  Cavaliers  at  Darien 149 

XIX.  Fruitless  Expedition  of  Pedrarias  151 

XX.  Second  Expedition  of  Vasco  Nunez  in  quest  of  the  Golden  Temple  of 

Dobayba 153 

XXI.  Letters  from  the  King  in  favor  of  Vasco  Nuiiez— Arrival  of  Garabito — 

Arrest  of  Vasco  Nunez  (1.51 5) 155 

XXII.  Expedition  of  Morales  and  Pizarro  to  the  Shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean — 
Their  Visit  to  the  Pearl  Islands — Their  disastrous  Return  across  the 
Mountains.    157 

XXIII.  Unfortunate  Enterprises  of  the  Officers  of   Pedrarias— Matrimonial 

Compact  between  the  Governor  and  Vasco  Nunez 166 

XXIV.  Vasco  Ntniez  transports  ships  across  the  Mountains  to  the  Pacific 

Ocean  (1.516) 166 

XXV.  Cruise  of  Vasco  Nunez  in  the  Southern  Sea — Rumours  from  Ada 169 

XXVI.  Reconnoitering  E.x:ijedition  of  Garabito— Stratagem  of  Pedrarias  to 

entrap  Vasco  Nuiiez   170 

XXVII   Vasco  NuKez  and  the  Astrologer — His  return  to  Ada 172 

XXVHI.  Trial  of  Vasco  Nunez 174 

XXTX.  Execution  of  Vasco  Nunez  (1517) 177 

Valdivia  and  his  Companions 180 

Micer  Codro,  the  Astrologer 189 

JU.VN  PONCE  DE  LEON.  Conqueror  op  Porto  Rico  and  Discoverer  of  Florida. 

I.  Reconnoitering  Expedition  of  Juan    Ponce   de   Leon   to  the  Island   of 

Boriquen  (1.50S) 191 

II.  Juan  Ponce  aspires  to  the  Government  of  Porto  Rico  (1509) . .  193 

III.  Juan  Ponce  rules  with  a  strong  handr-Exasperation  of  the  Indians— Their 

Experiment  to  prove  whetht'r  the  Spaniards  were  mortal 195 

TV.  Conspiracy  of  the  Caciques— The  Fate  of  Sotomayor 196 

V.  War  of  Juan  Ponce  with  the  Cacique  Agneybana 199 

VI.  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  hears  of  a  wonderful  Country  and  miraculous  Foun- 
tain    203 

VIT.  Cruise  of  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  in  search  of  the  Fotmtain  of  Youth  (1512). . .  205 
VIII.  Expedition  of  Juan  Ponce  against  the  Caribs- His  Death  (1514) 207 

APPENDIX. 

A  "isi t  to  Palos 211 

Manifesto  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda 226 


INTRODUCTIOI^. 


The  first  discovery  of  the  western  hemisphere  has  already 
been  related  by  the  author  in  his  History  of  Columbus.  It  is 
proposed  by  liim,  in  the  present  work,  to  narrate  the  enterprises 
of  certain  of  the  companions  and  disciples  of  the  admiral,  who, 
enkindled  by  his  zeal,  and  instructed  by  his  example,  saUied 
forth  separately  in  the  vast  region  of  adventure  to  which  he 
had  led  the  way.  Many  of  them  sought  merely  to  skirt  the 
continent  which  he  had  partially  visited,  and  to  secure  the  first 
fruits  of  the  pearl  fisherios  of  Paria  and  Cubaga,  or  to  explore 
the  coast  of  Veragua,  which  he  had  represented  as  the  Aurea 
Chersonesus  of  the  Ancients.  Others  aspired  to  accomphsh  a 
grand  discovery  which  he  had  meditated  toward  the  close  of 
liis  career.  In  the  course  of  his  expeditions  along  tlie  coast  of 
Terra  Firma,  Columbus  had  repeatedly  received  information 
of  the  existence  of  a  vast  sea  to  the  south.  He  supposed  it  to 
be  the  great  Indian  Ocean,  the  region  of  the  Oriental  spice 
islands,  and  that  it  must  communicate  by  a  strait  with  the  Ca- 
ribbean Sea.  His  last  and  most  disastrous  voyage  was  made 
for  the  express  purpose  of  discovering  that  imaginary  strait, 
and  making  his  way  into  this  Southern  Ocean.  The  illustrious 
navigator,  however,  was  doomed  to  die,  as  it  were,  upon  the 
threshold  of  his  discoveries.  It  was  reserved  for  one  of  his  fol- 
lowers, Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa,  to  obtain  the  first  view  of  the 
promised  ocean,  from  the  lofty  mountains  of  Darien,  some 
years  after  the  c^^cs  of  the  venerable  admiral  had  been  closed 
in  death. 

The  expeditions  herein  narrated,  therefore,  ^ay  be  considered 
as  springing  immediately  out  of  the  voyages  of  Columbus,  and 
fulfilling  some  of  his  grand  designs.  They  may  be  compared 
to  the  attempts  of  adventurous  knights  errant  to  achieve  the 
enterprise  left  mifinished  by  some  illustrious  predecessor. 
Neither  is  this  compaxison  entirely  f  ancif  uL    On  the  contrary, 


6  SPA^'ISII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERT. 

it  is  a  curious  fact,  well  worthy  of  notice,  that  the  spirit  of 
chivalry  entered  largely  into  the  early  expeditions  of  the  Span- 
ish discoverers,  giving  them  a  character  wholly  distinct  from 
similar  enterprises  undertaken  by  other  nations.  It  will  not, 
perhaps,  be  considered  far  sovight,  if  we  trace  the  cause  of  tliis 
peculiarity  to  the  domestic  history  of  the  Spaniards  dui-ing  the 
middle  ages. 

Eight  centuries  of  incessant  warfare  with  the  Moorish  usurp- 
ers of  the  peninsula  produced  a  deep  and  lasting  effect  upon  the 
Spanish  character  and  manners.  The  war  being  ever  close  at 
home,  mingled  itself  with  the  doniestic  habits  and  concerns  of 
tlio  Spaniard.  He  was  born  a  soldier.  The  wild  and  predatory 
nature  of  the  war,  also,  made  him  a  kind  of  chivalrous  marauder. 
His  horse  and  weapon  were  always  ready  for  the  field.  His 
delight  was  in  roving  incursions  and  extravagant  exploits,  and 
no  gain  was  so  glorious  in  his  eyes  as  the  cavalgada  of  spoils 
and  captives,  driven  home  in  triumph  from  a  j)lundered  prov- 
ince. Religion,  which  has  ever  held  great  empire  in  the  Span- 
ish mind,  lent  its  aid  to  sanctify  these  roving  and  ravaging  pro- 
pcndties,  and  the  Castilian  cavalier,  as  he  sacked  the  towns 
and  laid  waste  the  fields  of  his  Moslem  neighbour,  piously  be- 
lieved he  was  doing  God  service. 

Tlic  conquest  of  Granada  put  an  end  to  the  peninsula  wars 
between  christian  and  infidel:  the  spirit  of  Spanish  chivalry 
was  thus  suddenly  deprived  of  its  wonted  sphere  of  action ;  but 
it  had  been  too  long  fostered  and  excited  to  be  as  suddenly  ap- 
peased. The  youth  of  the  nation,  bred  up  to  daring  adventure 
and  heroic  achievement,  could  not  brook  the  tranquil  and  re.cni- 
lar  pursuits  of  common  life,  but  panted  for  some  new  field  of 
rcanantic  entei-prise. 

It  was  at  this  juncture  that  the  gi^and  project  of  Columbus 
was  carried  into  effect.  His  treaty  Avith  the  sovereigns  was,  in 
a  manner,  signed  with  the  same  pen  that  had  subscribed  the 
caj)itidation  of  the  Moorish  capital,  and  his  first  expedition  may 
almost  be  said  to  have  departed  from  beneath  the  walls  of  Gra- 
nada. Many  of  the  youthful  cavaliers  who  had  fleshed  their 
swords  in  that  memorable  war,  crowded  the  ships  of  the  dis- 
coverers, thinking  a  new  career  of  arms  was  to  be  opened  to  them 
— a  kind  of  crusade  into  splendid  and  unknown  regions  of  infi- 
dels. The  very  weapons  and  armour  that  had  been  used  against 
the  Moors  were  drawn  from  the  arsenals  to  equip  the  discover- 
ers, and  some  of  the  most  noted  of  the  earty  commanders  in  the 
new  world  will  be  found  to  ha^'c  made  their  first  essay  in  arms 


JNTROBUCTION.  7 

under  the  banner  of  Ferdinand  and  iBabella,  in  their  romantic 
campaigns  among  the  mountains  of  Andalusia. 

To  those  circiunstanccs  may,  in  a  groat  measure,  be  ascribed 
that  swelling  chivalrous  spirit  which  will  be  found  continually 
mingling,  or  rather  warring,  with  the  technical  habits  of  the 
seamen,  and  the  sordid  schemes  of  the  mercenary  adventurer; 
in  these  early  Spanish  discoveries,  chivalry  had  left  the  land 
and  launched  upon  tbe  deep.  The  Spanish  cavalier  had  em- 
barked in  the  Caraval  of  the  discoverc^r;  he  carried  among  the 
trackless  wildernesses  of  the  new  world,  the  same  contemi:)t  of 
danger  and  fortitude  under  suffering,  tlie  same  restless  roaming 
epirit,  the  same  passion  for  inroad  and  ravage,  and  vain-glori- 
ous exploit,  and  the  same  fervent,  and  often  bigoted,  zeal  for 
the  propagation  of  his  faith  that  had  distinguished  him  during 
his  warfare  with  the  Moors,  Instances  in  point  will  be  found 
in  the  extravagant  career  of  the  daring  Ojeda,  particidarly  in 
liis  adventures  along  the  coast  of  Terra  Firma  and  the  wild 
shores  of  Cuba.  In  the  sad  story  of  the  ' '  imf ortunate  Nicuesa ;" 
graced  as  it  is  with  occasional  touches  of  high-bred  courtesy; 
in  the  singular  cruise  of  that  brave,  but  credulous,  old  cavalier, 
Juan  Ponce  do  Leon,  who  fell  upon  the  flowery  coast  of  Florida, 
in  his  search  after  an  imaginary  fountain  of  youth ;  and  above 
all  in  the  chequered  fortimcs  of  Vasco  Nmlez  de  Balboa,  whose 
discovery  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  forms  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  striking  incidents  in  the  history  of  the  new  world,  and 
whose  fate  might  furnish  a  theme  of  wonderful  interest  for  a 
poem  or  a  drama. 

The  extraordinary  actions  and  adventures  of  these  men, 
while  they  rival  the  exploits  recorded  in  chivalric  tale,  bave 
the  additional  interest  of  verity.  They  leave  us  in  admiral  ion 
of  the  bold  and  heroic  qualities  inherent  in  the  Spanish  char- 
acter, which  led  that  nation  to  so  high  a  pitch  of  power  and 
glory,  and  which  are  still  discernible  in  the  great  mass  of  that 
gallant  people,  by  those  who  have  an  opportunity  of  judging 
of  them  rightly. 

Before  concluding  these  prefatory  remarks,  the  author 
would  acknowledge  how  much  he  has  been  indebted  to  the 
third  volume  of  the  invaluable  Historical  collection  of  Don 
Martin  Fernandez  de  Navarrete,  wherein  he  has  exhibited  his 
usual  industry,  accuracy,  and  critical  acumen.  He  has  Uke- 
wisc  profited  greatly  by  the  second  volume  of  Oviedo's  general 
history,  which  only  exists  in  manuscript,  and  a  copy  of  which 
he  found  in  the  Columbian  library  of  the  Cathedral  of  Seville. 


S  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVER Y. 

He  has  had  some  assistance  also  from  the  documents  of  the 
law-case  between  Don  Diego  Columbus  and  the  Crown,  which 
exist  in  the  archives  of  the  Indies ;  and  for  an  inspection  of 
wliich  he  is  much  indebted  to  the  permission  of  the  Spanish 
Government  and  the  kind  attentions  of  Don  Josef  de  La  Hi- 
guera  Lara,  the  keeper  of  the  archives.  These,  with  the  his- 
torical works  of  Las  Casas,  Herrera,  Gomera,  and  Peter  Martyr, 
have  been  his  authorities  for  the  facts  contained  in  the  follow- 
ing work ;  though  he  has  not  thought  proper  to  refer  to  them 
continually  at  the  bottom  of  his  page. 

While  his  work  was  going  through  the  press  he  received  a 
volume  of  Spanish  Biography,  written  with  great  elegance  and 
accuracy,  by  Don  Manuel  Josef  Quintana,  and  containing  a 
Hfe  of  Vasco  Nuiiez  de  Balboa.  He  was  gratified  to  find  that 
his  arrangement  of  facts  was  generally  corroborated  by  tliis 
work ;  though  he  was  enabled  to  correct  his  dates  in  several 
instances,  and  to  make  a  few  other  emendations  from  the  vol- 
ume of  Seilor  Quintana,  whose  position  in  Spain  gave  kun  the 
means  of  attaining  superior  '^^lactness  en  these  points. 


VOYACxES  AND   DISCOVERIES 

OP  THE 

COMPANIONS   OF   COLUMBUS. 


To  declare  my  opinion  herein,  wliatsoever  hath  heretofore  been  discovered  by 
the  famous  truvaylcs  of  Sfiluriius  atul  Hercules,  with  such  other  whom  the  An- 
tiquitie  for  their  heroical  acts  honoured  as  gods,  seemeth  but  Httle  and  obscure,  if 
it  be  compared  to  tlio  victorious  labors  of  the  Spanyards. — P.  Martyr,  Decad.  III.  c. 
4.    Lock's  translation 


ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.* 

HI8  FIRST  VOYAGE,  IN  WHICH  HE  WAS  ACCOMPANIED  BY 
AMERiaO  VESPUCCIA 


CHAPTER  I. 


SOME    ACCOUNT    OF    OJEDA— OF   JUAN   DE   LA  COSA— OF   AMERIGO 
VESPUCCI — PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE   VOYAGE.— (1499.) 

Those  who  have  read  the  History  of  Columbus  ■will,  doubt- 
less, remember  the  character  and  exploits  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda; 
as  some  of  the  readers  of  the  foilo%ving  pages,  however,  may 
not  have  perused  that  work,  and  as  it  is  proposed  at  present  to 
trace  the  subsequent  fortunes  of  this  youthful  adventurer,  a 
brief  sketch  of  him  may  not  be  deemed  superfluous. 

Alonzo  de  Ojoda  was  a  native  of  Cuenca,  in  New  Castile, 
and  of  a  respectable  family.  He  was  brought  up  as  a  page  or 
esquire,  in  the  service  of  Don  Luis  de  Cerda,  Duke  of  Medina 
Ceh,  one  of  the  most  powerful  nobles  of  Spain ;  the  same  who 
for  some  time  patronised  Columbus  during  Ms  apphcation  to 
the  Spanish  com-t.  I 

•  Ojeda  is  pronounced  in  Spanish  Oheda,  with  a  strong  aspiration  of  the  h. 

t  Vespucci.  Vespuchy. 

t  Varones  Ilustres,  por  F.  Pizarro  y  Orellaua,  p.  41.     Las  Casas,  Hist.  Ind.  1   i.  c.  82. 


]0  SPANISH    VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

In  those  warlike  days,  when  the  peninsula  was  distracted  by- 
contests  between  the  christian  kingdoms,  by  feuds  between  the 
nobles  and  the  crown,  and  by  the  incessant  and  marauding 
warfare  with  the  Moors,  the  household  of  a  Spanish  nobleman 
was  a  complete  school  of  arms,  where  the  youth  of  the  country 
were  sent  to  be  trained  up  in  all  kinds  of  hardy  exercises,  and 
to  be  led  to  battle  under  an  illustrious  banner.  Such  was  es- 
pecially the  case  with  the  service  of  the  Duke  of  Medina  Ceh, 
who  possessed  princely  domains,  whose  household  was  a  petty 
court,  who  led  legions  of  armed  retainers  to  the  field,  and  who 
appeared  in  splendid  state  and  with  an  immense  retinue,  more 
as  an  ally  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  than  as  a  subject.  He 
engaged  in  many  of  the  roughest  expeditions  of  the  mem- 
orable war  of  Granada,  always  insisting  on  leading  his  own 
troops  in  person,  when  the  service  was  of  peculiar  difficulty 
and  danger.  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  was  formed  to  signalize  himself 
in  such  a  school.  Though  small  of  stature,  he  was  well  made, 
and  of  wonderful  force  and  activity,  ^vith.  a  towering  spirit 
and  a  daring  eye  that  seemed  to  make  up  for  deficiency  of 
height.  He  was  a  bold  and  gi-aceful  horseman,  an  excellent 
foot  soldier,  dexterous  with  every  weapon,  and  noted  for  his 
extraordinary  skiU  and  adroitness  in  all  feats  of  strength  and 
agiUty. 

He  must  have  been  quite  young  when-  he  followed  the  duke 
of  Medina  Ceh,  as  page,  to  the  Moorish  wars :  for  he  was  but 
about  twenty-one  years  of  age  when  he  accompanied  Colum- 
bus in  his  second  voyage;  he  had  already,  however,  distin- 
guished himself  by  his  enterprising  spirit  and  headlong  valour ; 
and  his  exploits  during  that  voyage  contributed  to  enhance  his 
reputation.  He  returned  to  Spain  with  Columbus,  but  did  not 
accompany  hhn  in  his  third  voyage,  in  the  spring  of  1498.  He 
was  probably  impatient  of  subordination,  and  ambitious  of  a 
separate  employment  or  command,  which  the  influence  of  liis 
connexions  gave  lum  a  great  chance  of  obtaining.  He  had  a 
cousin-gennan  of  his  own  name,  the  reverend  Padre  Alonzo  de 
Ojeda,  a  Dominican  friar,  who  was  one  of  the  first  inquisitors 
of  Spam,  and  a  gi-eat  favourite  with  the  CathoHc  sovereigns.* 
This  father  inquisitor  was,  moreover,  an  intimate  friend  of  the 
bishop  Don  Juan  Rodriguez  Fonseca,  who  had  the  chief  man- 
agement of  the  affairs  of  the  Indies,  under  which  general  name 
were  comprehended  all  the  coimtries  discovered  in  the  new 

*  Pizarro.    Varones  Ilustres. 


ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  11 

world.  Through  the  good  offices  of  his  cousin  inquisitor,  there- 
fore, Ojeda  had  been  introduced  to  the  notice  of  the  bishop, 
%vho  took  him  into  hLs  especial  favour  and  patronage.  Men- 
tion has  ah-eady  been  made,  in  the  History  of  Columbus,  of  a 
present  made  by  the  bishop  to  Ojeda  of  a  small  Flemish  paint- 
ing of  the  Holy  Virgin.  Tlais  the  young  adventurer  carried 
about  with  him  as  a  protecting  rehc,  invoking  it  at  all  times  of 
peril,  whether  by  sea  or  land ;  and  to  the  special  care  of  the 
Vii'gin  ho  attributed  the  remarkable  circumstance  that  he  had 
never  been  wounded  in  any  of  the  innumerable  brawls  and 
battles  into  which  he  was  continually  betrayed  by  his  rash  and 
fiery  temperament. 

While  Ojeda  was  lingering  about  the  court,  letters  were 
received  from  Columbus,  giving  an  account  of  the  events  of 
bis  third  voyage,  especially  of  his  discovery  of  the  coast  of 
Paria,  whicli  he  described  as  abounding  with  drugs  and  spices, 
with  gold  and  silver,  and  precious  stones,  and,  above  all,  with 
oriental  pearls,  and  which  he  supposed  to  be  the  borders  of 
that  vast  and  unknown  region  of  the  East,  wherein,  according 
to  certain  learned  theorists,  was  situated  the  terrestrial  para- 
dise. Specimens  of  tbe  pearls,  procured  in  considerable  quan- 
tities from  the  natives,  accompanied  his  epistle,  togetJier  Avith 
charts  descriptive  of  his  route.  These  tidingo  caiLsed  a  great 
sensation  among  the  maritime  adventurers  of  Spain;  but  no 
one  was  more  excited  by  them  than  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  who, 
from  his  intimacy  with  the  bishop,  had  full  access  to  the 
charts  and  cori-espondence  of  Columbus.  He  immediately 
conceived  the  project  of  making  a  voyage  in  the  route  thus 
marked  out  by  the  admiral,  and  of  seizing  vqion  the  first  fruits 
of  discovery  which  he  had  left  ungathered.  His  scheme  met 
with  ready  encouragement  from  Fonseca,  who,  {\s  has  hereto- 
fore been  shown,  was  an  implacable  enemy  to  Columbus,  and 
wiUing  to  promote  any  measure  that  might  injure  or  molest 
him.  The  bishop  accordingly  granted  a  commission  to  Ojeda, 
authorizing  him  to  fit  out  an  armament  and  proceed  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery,  with  the  proviso  merely  that  he  should 
not  visit  any  territories  appertainiaig  to  Portugal,  or  any  of 
the  lands  discovered  in  the  name  of  Spain  proA^ous  to  the  year 
1495.  The  latter  pai-t  of  this  provision  appears  to  have  been 
craftily  worded  by  the  bishop,  so  as  to  leave  the  coast  of  Paria 
and  its  peai-l  fisheries  open  to  Ojeda,  they  having  been  recently 
discovered  by  Columbus  in  1  lOS. 

The  commission  was  signed  by  Fonseca  alone,  in  virtue  of 


12  SPAMSn  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 

general  powers  vested  in  him  for  such  purposes,  but  the  signa- 
ture of  the  sovereigns  did  not  appear  on  the  instrument,  and 
it  is  doubtful  whether  their  sanction  was  sought  on  the  occa- 
sion. He  knew  that  Columbus  had  recently  remonstrated 
against  a  royal  mandate  issued  in  1495,  permitting  voyages  of 
discovery,  by  private  adventurers,  and  that  the  sovereigns 
had  in  consequence  revoked  their  mandate  wherever  it  might 
bo  deemed  prejudicial  to  the  stipulated  privileges  of  the 
admiral.  =*•  It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  the  bishop  avoided 
raising  any  question  that  might  impede  the  enterprise ;  being 
confident  of  the  ultimate  approbation  of  Ferdinand,  who 
would  be  well  pleased  to  have  his  dominions  in  the  new  world 
extended  by  the  discoveries  of  private  adventurers,  under- 
taken at  their  own  expense.  It  was  stipulated  in  this,  as  well 
as  in  subsequent  licenses  for  private  expeditions,  that  a  certain 
proportion  of  the  profits,  generally  •"  fourth  or  fifth,  should  be 
reserved  for  the  crown. 

Having  thus  obtained  permission  to  make  the  voyage,  the 
next  consideration  with  Ojeda  Wv. .j  to  find  the  means.  He  was 
a  young  adventurer,  a  mere  soldier  of  fortmie,  and  destitute  of 
wealth;  but  he  had  a  high  reputation  for  courage  and  enter- 
prise, and  with  these,  it  was  thought,  would  soon  make  his 
way  to  the  richest  parts  of  the  newly  discovered  lands,  and 
have  the  wealth  of  the  Indies  at  his  disposal.  He  had  no  diffi- 
culty, therefore,  in  finding  monied  associates  among  the  rich 
merchants  of  Seville,  who,  in  that  a;;^  of  discovery,  were  ever 
ready  to  stake  their  property  upon  the  schemes  of  roving  navi- 
gators. With  such  assistance  he  soon  equipped  a  squadron  of 
four  vessels  at  Port  St.  Mary,  opposite  Cadiz.  Among  the 
seamer  who  engaged  with  him  were  several  who  had  just 
returned  from  accompanying  Columbus  in  his  voyage  to  this 
very  coast  of  Paria.  The  principal  associate  of  Ojeda,  and  one 
on  whom  he  placed  great  rehance,  was  Juan  de  la  Cosa ;  who 
accoinpanied  him  as  first  mate,  or,  as  it  was  termed,  chief  pilot. 
This  was  a  bold  Biscayan,  who  may  be  regarded  as  a  disciple 
of  Columbus,  with  whom  he  had  sailed  in  his  second  voyage, 
when  he  coasted  Cuba  and  Jamaica,  and  he  had  since  accom- 
panied Rodrigo  de  Bastides.  in  an  expedition  along  the  coast  of 
Terra  Firma.  The  hardy  veteran  was  looked  up  to  by  his  con- 
temporaries as  an  oracle  of  the  seas,  and  was  pronounced  one 
of  the  most  able  mariners  of  the  day;  he  may  be  excused, 

♦  Navarrete,  t.  ii.    Document,  cxiii. 


ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  13 

therefore,  if  in  his  harmless  vanity  he  considered  himself  on  a 
par  even  with  Columbus.* 

Another  conspicuous  associate  of  Ojeda,  in  this  voyage,  "was 
Amerigo  Vespucci,  a  Florentine  merchant,  induced  by  broken 
fortunes  and  a  rambling  disposition  to  seek  adventures  in  tbo 
new  world.  Whether  he  had  any  pecuniary  interest  in  the 
expedition,  and  in  what  capacity  he  sailed,  does  not  appear. 
His  importance  has  entirely  arisen  from  subsequent  circum- 
stances ;  from  his  having  written  and  published  a  narrative  of 
his  voyages,  and  from  his  name  having  eventually  been  given 
to  the  new  world. 


CHAPTER  II. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SPAIN— ARRIVAL  ON  THE  COAST  OF  PARIA — 
CUSTOMS  OF  THE  NATIONS. 

Ojeda  sailed  from  Port  St.  Mary  on  the  20th  of  May,  1499, 
and,  having  touched  for  supplies  at  the  Canaries,  took  a  depar- 
ture from  Gomara,  pursuing  the  route  of  Columbus,  in  his 
third  voyage,  being  guided  by  the  chart  lie  had  sent  home,  at 
well  as  by  the  mariners  who  had  accompanied  him  on  that 
occasion.  At  the  end  of  twenty-four  days  he  reached  the 
continent  of  the  new  world,  about  two  hundred  leagues  far- 
ther south  than  the  part  discovered  by  Columbus,  being,  as  it 
is  supposed,  the  coast  of  Surinam.! 

From  hence  he  ran  along  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Paria, 
passing  the  mouths  of  many  rivers,  but  especially  those  of  the 
Esquivo  and  the  Oronoko.  These,  to  the  astonishment  of 
the  Spaniards,  unaccustomed  as  yet  to  the  mighty  rivers  of 
the  new  world,  poured  forth  such  a  prodigious  volume  of 
water,  as  to  freshen  the  sea  for  a  great  extent.  They  beheld 
none  of  the  natives  until  they  arrived  at  the  Island  of  Trini- 
dad, on  which  island  they  met  with  traces  of  the  recent  visit 
of  Columbus. 

Vespucci,  in  his  letters,  gives  a  long  description  of  the  people 
of  this  island  and  of  the  coast  of  Paria,  who  were  of  the  Carib 
race,  tall,  well-made  and  vigorous,  and  expert  with  the  bow, 
the  lance,  and  the  buckler.     His  description,  in  general,  resem- 

♦Navarette.    CoUec.  Viag.,  t.  iii.,  p.  4.  tNavarrete,  t.  iii.,  p.  ^11. 


14  spajYTsii  voyages  of  discovert. 

hies  those  which  have  frequently  been  given  of  the  Aboriginals 
of  the  new  world ;  there  are  two  or  three  particulars,  however, 
worthy  of  citation. 

They  appeared,  he  said,  to  believe  in  no  religious  creed,  to 
have  no  place  of  worship,  and  to  make  no  prayers  or  sac- 
rifices; but,  he  adds,  from  the  voluptuousness  of  their  lives, 
they  might  be  considered  Epicureans.*  Their  habitations 
were  built  in  the  shape  of  bells ;  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  thatched 
with  palm  leaves,  and  were  proof  against  wind  and  weather. 
They  appeared  to  be  in  common,  and  some  of  them  were  of 
such  magnitude  as  to  contain  six  hundred  persons:  in  one 
place  there  were  eight  principal  houses  capable  of  sheltering 
nearly  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Every  seven  or  eigiit  years 
the  natives  were  obliged  to  change  their  residence,  from  the 
maladies  engendered  by  the  heat  of  the  climate  in  their 
crowded  habitations. 

Their  riches  consisted  in  beads  and  ornaments  made  from 
the  bones  of  fishes;  in  small  white  and  green  stones  strung 
like  rosai'ies,  with  which  they  adorned  their  persons,  and  in 
the  beautiful  plumes  of  various  colom-s  for  which  the  tropical 
birds  are  noted. 

The  Spaniards  smiled  at  their  simplicity  in  attaching  an 
extraordinary  value  to  such  worthless  trifles;  wMle  the  sav- 
ages, in  all  probability,  were  equally  surprised  at  beholding 
the  strangers  so  eager  after  gold,  and  pearls  and  precious 
stones,  which  to  themselves  were  objects  of  indifference. 

Their  m^anner  of  treating  the  dead  was  similar  to  that  ob- 
served among  the  natives  of  some  of  the  islands.  Having 
deposited  the  corpse  in  a  cavern  or  sepulchre,  they  placed  a  jar 
of  water  and  a  few  eatables  at  its  head,  and  then  abandoned 
it  without  moan  or  lamentation.  In  some  parts  of  the  coast, 
when  a  person  was  considered  near  his  end,  his  nearest  rela- 
tives bore  him  to  the  woods  and  laid  him  in  a  hammock  sus- 
pended to  the  trees.  They  then  danced  round  him  until 
evening,  when,  having  left  within  his  reach  sufficient  meat 
and  drink  to  sustain  him  for  four  days,  they  repaired  to  their 
habitations.  If  he  recovered  and  returned  home,  he  was  re- 
ceived with  much  ceremony  and  rejoicing;  if  he  died  of  liis 
malady  or  of  famine,  nothing  more  was  thought  of  him. 

Their  mode  of  treating  a  fever  is  also  worthy  of  mention. 
In  the  height  of  the  malady  they  plunged  the  patient  in  a  bath 

*  Viages  de  Vespucci.    Navarrete,  t.  iii.,  p.  211. 


ALOyZO   1)K  OJKDA.  15 

of  the  coldest  watei',  after  which  they  obliged  him  to  make 
many  evokitions  round  a  great  lire,  until  he  wiis  in  a  violent 
heat,  when  they  put  hiai  to  bod,  that  he  might  sleep :  a  treat- 
ment, adds  Amerigo  Vespucci,  by  which  we  saw  many  cured. 


CHAPTER  III. 


COASTING  OF  TERRA  FIRMA — MILITARY    EXPEDITION  OF  OJEDA. 

After  touchmg  at  various  parts  of  Trinidad  and  the  Gulf 
of  Paria,  Ojoda  passed  through  the  strait  of  the  Boca  del 
Drago,  or  Dragon's  Mouth,  which  Columbus  had  found  so 
formidable,  and  then  steei'od  his  course  along  the  coast  of 
Terra  Fii'ma,  landing  occasionally  until  he  arrived  at  Curiana, 
or  the  Gulf  of  Pearls.  From  hence  he  stood  to  the  opposite 
island  of  Margarita,  previously  discovered  by  Columbus,  and 
since  renowned  for  its  pearl  fishery.  This,  as  well  as  several 
adjacent  islands,  he  visited  and  explored;  after  which  he  re- 
turned to  the  main  land,  and  touched  at  Ciuuana  and  Mara- 
capana,  where  he  found  the  rivers  infested  with  aUigators  re- 
sembling the  crocodiles  of  the  Nile. 

Finding  a  convenient  harbour  at  Maracapana  he  unloaded 
and  careened  his  vessels  there,  and  built  a  small  brigantine. 
The  natives  came  to  him  in  great  numbers,  bringing  abundance 
of  venison,  fish,  and  cassava  bread,  and  aiding  the  seamen  in 
their  labours.  Their  hospitahty  was  not  certainly  disinter- 
ested, for  they  sought  to  gain  the  protection  of  the  Spaniards, 
whom  they  reverenced  as  superhuman  beings.  When  they 
thought  they  had  sufficiently  secured  their  favour,  they  repre- 
sented to  Ojeda  that  their  coast  was  subject  to  invasion  from 
a  distant  island,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  cannibals,  and 
carried  their  people  into  captivity,  to  be  devoured  at  their 
unnatural  banquets.  They  besought  Ojeda,  therefore,  to 
avenge  them  upon  these  ferocious  enemies. 

The  request  was  gratifying  to  the  fighting  propensities  of 
Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  and  to  his  love  of  adventure,  and  was  readily 
gi*anted.  Taking  seven  of  the  natives  on  board  of  his  vessels, 
therefore,  as  guides,  he  set  sail  in  quest  of  the  cannibals. 
After  sailing  for  seven  days  he  came  to  a  chain  of  islands, 


10  S  PANTS  IF   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

some  of  which  were  peopled,  others  uninhabited,  and  which 
are  supposed  to  have  been  the  Carribee  islands.  One  of  these 
Avas  pointed  out  by  his  guides  as  the  habitation  of  their  foes. 
On  running  near  the  shore  he  beheld  it  thronged  with  savage 
warriors,  decorated  with  coronets  of  gaudy  plumes,  their 
bodies  painted  with  a  variety  of  colours.  They  were  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  with  darts,  lances,  and  bucklers,  and 
seemed  prepared  to  defend  their  island  from  invasion. 

This  show  of  war  was  calcidated  to  rouse  the  inartial  spirit 
of  Ojeda.  He  brought  his  sliips  to  anchor,  ordered  out  his 
boats,  and  provided  each  with  a  paterero  or  small  cannon. 
Beside  the  oarsmen,  each  boat  contained  a  number  of  soldiers, 
Avh»  were  told  to  crouch  out  of  sight  in  the  bottom.  The 
boats  then  pulled  in  steadily  for  the  shore.  As  they  ap- 
proached, the  Indians  let  fly  a  cloud  of  arrows,  but  without 
much  effect.  Seeing  the  boats  continue  to  advance,  the  sav- 
ages threw  themselves  into  the  sea,  and  brandished  their  lances 
to  prevent  their  landing.  Upon  this,  the  soldiers  sprang  up  in 
the  boats  and  discharged  the  patereroes.  At  the  sound  and 
smoke  of  these  unknown  weapons  the  savages  abandoned  the 
water  in  affright,  while  Ojeda  and  his  men  leaped  on  shore 
and  pursued  them.  The  Carib  warriors  rallied  on  the  banks, 
and  fought  for  a  long  time  with  that  courage  peculiar  to  their 
race,  but  were  at  length  driven  to  the  woods,  at  the  edge  of  the 
sword,  leaving  many  killed  and  wounded  on  the  field  of  battle. 

On  the  following  day  the  savages  were  seen  on  the  shore  in 
still  greater  numbers,  armed  and  painted,  and  decorated  with 
war  plumes,  and  sounding  defiance  with  their  conchs  and 
drums.  Ojeda  again  landed  fifty-seven  men,  whom  he  sep- 
arated into  four  companies,  and  ordered  them  to  charge  the 
enemy  from  different  directions.  The  Caribs  fought  for  a 
time  hand  to  hand,  displaying  great  dexterity  m  covering 
themselves  with  their  buclders,  but  were  at  length  entu'ely 
routed  and  driven,  with  great  slaughter,  to  the  forests.  The 
Spaniards  had  but  one  man  killed  and  twenty-one  wounded  in 
these  combats, — such  superior  advantage  did  their  armour 
give  them  over  the  naked  savages.  Having  plundered  and  set 
fire  to  the  houses,  they  returned  triumphantly  to  tiieir  ships, 
with  a  number  of  Carib  captives,  and  made  sail  for  the  main 
land.  Ojeda  bestowed  a  part  of  the  spoil  upon  the  seven 
Indians  who  had  accompanied  him  as  guides,  and  sent  them 
exulting  to  their  homes,  to  relate  to  their  countrymen  the 
signal  vengeance  that  had  been  wreaked  upon  their  foes.    He 


ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  17 

then  anchored  in  a  bay.  where  he  remained  for  twenty  days, 
until  his  men  had  recovered  from  their  wounds.* 


CHAPTER  IV. 


DISCOVERT  OF    THE  GULF  OF  VENEZUELA— TRANSACTIONS  TEtERE 
— OJEDA  EXPLORES  THE  GULF — PENETRATES  TO  MARACAIBO, 

His  crew  bcinp;  refreshed,  and  the  wounded  sufficiently  re- 
covered, Ojeda  made  sail,  and  touched  at  the  island  of  Curazao, 
which,  according  to  the  accounts  of  Vespucci,  was  inhabited  by 
a  race  of  giants,  ' '  every  woman  appearing  a  Penthesilea,  and 
every  man  an  Antaeus,  "t  As  Vespucciw  as  a  scholar,  and  as  he 
supposed  himself  exploring  the  regions  of  the  extreme  East,  the 
ancient  realm  of  fable,  it  is  probable  his  imagination  deceived 
him,  and  construed  the  formidable  accounts  given  by  the  In- 
di"'."^".  of  their  cannibal  neighbours  of  the  islands,  into  some- 
thiiiji'  according  with  his  recollections  of  classic  fable.  Certain 
it  is,  that  the  reports  of  subsequent  voyagers  proved  the  in- 
habitants of  the  island  to  be  of  the  ordinary  size. 

Proceeding  along  the  coast,  he  arrived  at  a  vast  deep  gulf, 
resembling  a  tranquil  lake ;  entering  which,  he  beheld  on  the 
eastern  side  a  village,  the  construction  of  which  struck  him 
with  surprise.  It  consisted  of  twenty  large  houses,  shaped  hke 
bells,  and  built  on  piles  driven  into  the  bottom  of  the  lake, 
which,  in  this  part,  was  limpid  and  of  but  little  depth.  Each 
house  was  provided  with  a  drawbridge,  and  with  canoes,  by 
which  the  communication  was  carried  on.  From  those  resem- 
blances to  the  Italian  city,  Ojeda  gave  to  the  bay  the  name  of 
the  Gulf  of  Venice :  and  it  is  called  at  the  present  day  Vene- 
zuela, or  Little  Venice :  the  Indian  name  was  Coquibacoa. 

When  the  inhabitants  beheld  the  ships  standing  into  the 
bay,  looking  like  wonderful  and  unknoAvn  apparitions  from  the 
deep,  they  fled  with  terror  to  their  houses,  and  raised  the 
drawbridges.    The  Spaniards  remained  for  a  time  gazing  with 


*  There  is  some  discrepance  in  the  early  accounts  of  this  battle,  as  to  the  time 
and  place  of  its  occurrence.  The  author  has  collated  the  narratives  of  Vespucci, 
Las  Casas,  Ht'rrera,  and  Peter  .Martyr,  and  the  evidence  fjivcn  in  the  law-suit  of 
Diego  Columbus,  and  has  endeavoured  as  much  as  possible  to  recouciie  them. 

+  Vespucci.— Letter  to  Lorenzo  de  Pier  Francisco  de  Medicis. 


j8  s^A^vs^  voyages  of  discovery. 

admiration  at  this  amphibious  \-illago,  when  a  squadron  cf 
canoes  entered  the  harbour  from  the  sea.  On  beholding  the 
ships  they  paused  in  mute  amazement,  and  on  the  Spaniards 
attempting  to  approach  them,  paddled  swiftly  to  shore,  and 
plunged  into  the  forest.  They  soon  returned  with  sixteen 
young  girls,  whom  they  conveyed  in  their  canoes  to  the  ships, 
distributing  four  on  board  of  each,  either  as  peace-offerings  or 
as  tokens  of  amity  and  confidence.  The  best  of  understanding 
now  seemed  to  be  established ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  vil- 
lage came  swarming  about  the  ships  in  their  canoes,  and  others 
swimming  in  great  numbers  from  the  shores. 

The  friendship  of  the  savages,  however,  was  all  delusive.  On 
a  sudden,  several  old  women  at  the  doors  of  the  houses  uttered 
loud  shrieks,  tearing  their  liair  in  fury.  It  appeared  to  be  a 
signal  for  hostility.  The  sixteen  nymphs  plunged  into  the  sea 
and  made  for  shore;  the  Indians  in  the  canoes  caught  up 
their  bows  and  discharged  a  flight  of  arrows,  and  even  those 
v/ho  were  swimming  brandished  darts  and  lances,  which  they 
had  hitherto  concealed  beneath  the  water. 

Ojeda  was  for  a  moment  surprised  at  seeing  war  thus  start- 
ing up  on  every  side,  and  the  very  sea  bristling  with  weapons. 
Manning  his  boats,  he  immediately  charged  among  the  thick- 
est of  the  enemy,  shattered  and  sunk  several  of  theu-  canoes, 
idlled  twenty  Indians  and  wounded  many  more,  and  spread 
such  a  panic  among  them,  that  most  of  the  survivors  flung 
themselves  into  the  sea  and  swam  to  shore.  Three  of  them 
were  taken  prisoners,  and  two  or  the  fugitive  girls,  and  were 
conveyed  on  board  of  the  ships,  where  the  men  were  put  in 
irons.  One  of  them,  however,  and  the  two  girls,  succeeded  in 
dexterously  escaping  the  same  night. 

Ojeda  had  but  five  men  wounded  in  the  affray,  all  of  whom 
recovered.  He  visited  the  houses,  but  found  them  abandoned 
and  destitute  of  booty ;  notwithstanding  the  unprovoked  hos- 
tihty  of  the  inhabitants,  he  spared  the  buildings,  that  he  might 
not  cause  useless  irritation  along  the  coast. 

Continuing  to  explore  this  gulf,  Ojeda  penetrated  to  a  port 
or  harbour,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  St.  Bartholomew, 
but  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  same  at  present  known  by  the 
original  Indian  name  of  ]\Iaracaibo.  Here,  in  compliance  with 
the  entreaties  of  the  natives,  he  sent  a  detachment  of  twenty- 
seven  Spaniards  on  a  visit  to  the  interior.  For  nine  days  they 
wore  conducted  from  town  to  town,  and  feasted  and  almost 
idolized  by  the  Indians,  who  regai'ded  them  as  angehc  beings, 


ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  19 

performing  their  national  dances  and  games,  and  chaunting 
their  traditional  ballads  for  their  entertainment. 

The  natives  of  this  part  were  distinguished  for  the  symme- 
try of  their  forms ;  the  females  in  particular  appeared  to  the 
Spaniards  to  surpass  all  others  that  they  had  yet  beheld  in  the 
new  world  for  grace  and  beauty ;  neither  did  the  men  evince, 
in  the  least  degree,  that  jealousy  wliich  prevailed  in  other 
parts  of  the  coast ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  permitted  the  most 
frank  and  intimate  intei'course  with  their  wives  and  daughtera. 

By  the  time  the  Spaniards  set  out  on  their  return  to  the  ship, 
the  whole  country  was  aroused,  pouring  forth  its  population, 
male  and  female,  to  do  them  honour.  Some  bore  them  in  lit- 
ters or  hammocks,  that  they  might  not  be  fati.gued  Avith  the 
journey,  and  happy  wa»  the  Indian  who  had  tlie  honour  of 
bearing  a  Spaniard  on  his  shoulders  across  a  river.  Othere 
loaded  themselves  with  the  presents  that  had  been  bestowed  on 
their  guests,  consisting  of  rich  plumes,  weapons  of  various 
kinds,  and  tropical  birds  and  animals.  In  this  way  they  re- 
turned in  triumphant  procession  to  the  ships,  the  woods  and 
shores  i«3S0unding  with  their  songs  and  shouts. 

Many  of  the  Indians  crowded  mto  the  boats  that  took 
the  detachment  to  the  ships;  others  put  off  in  canoes,  or 
swam  from  shore,  so  that  in  a  httle  while  the  vessels  were 
thronged  with  upwai'ds  of  a  thousand  wondering  natives. 
Wliile  gazing  and  marvelling  at  the  strange  objects  around 
them,  Ojeda  ordered  the  cannon  to  be  discharged,  at  tlie  soimd 
of  which,  says  Vespucci,  the  Indians  "  plunged  into  the  water, 
like  so  many  frogs  from  a  bank."  Perceiving,  hov.-ever,  that 
it  was  done  in  harmless  mirth,  they  returned  on  board,  and 
passed  the  rest  of  the  day  in  great  festivity.  The  Spaniards 
brought  away  with  them  several  of  the  beautiful  and  hospitable 
females  from  tliis  place,  one  of  whom,  named  by  them  Isabel, 
was  much  prized  by  Ojeda,  and  accompanied  him  in  a  subse- 
quent voyage.* 


*Navarett«,  t.  iii.,  p  8.    Idem,  pp.  107,  108. 

It  is  wortliy  of  iianiciiKar  mention  tliat  Ojeda.  in  his  report  of  his  voyage  to  the 
Soveroi'^ns.  informed  them  of  his  havinp:  met  with  Enfrlish  voyagers  in  the  vicinity 
of  Coquibacoa,  and  that  the  Spani>h  government  attached  such  importance  to  his 
information  as  to  take  measures  to  prevent  any  intrusion  into  those  parts  by  the 
English.  It  is  singular  that  no  record  should  exist  of  this  early  and  extensive  ex- 
pedition of  English  navigators.  If  it  was  undertaken  in  the  service  of  the  Crown, 
some  document  might  Vie  found  concerning  it  among  the  arcliives  of  rlie  reigc  of 
Henry  VII.  Thu  English  had  .already  discovered  the  i-ontinent  of  North  America. 
This  had  been  done  in  MOT,  by  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian,  accompanied  by  his  son 


20  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OJh   DISCOVERY. 

CHAPTER  V. 

PROSECUTION  OF  THE  VOYAGE— RETURN  TO  SPAIN. 

Leaving  the  friendly  port  of  Coquibacoa,  Ojeda  continued 
along  the  western  shores  of  the  gulf  of  Venezuela,  and  standing 
out  to  sea,  and  doubling  Cape  Maracaibo,  he  pursued  his 
coasting  voyage  from  port  to  port,  and  promontory  to  promon- 
tory, of  this  unknown  continent,  until  he  reached  that  long 
stretching  headland  called  Cape  de  la  Vela.  There,  the  state 
of  his  vessels,  and  perhaps  the  disappointment  of  his  hopes  at 
not  meeting  with  abundant  sources  of  immediate  wealth, 
induced  him  to  abandon  aU  further  voyaging  along  the  coast, 
and,  changing  his  course,  he  stood  across  the  Caribbean  Sea  for 
Hispaniola.  The  tenor  of  his  commission  forbade  his  visiting 
that  idand;  but  Ojeda  was  not  a  man  to  stand  upon  trifles 
when  his  interest  or  inclination  prompted  the  contrary.  He 
trusted  to  excuse  the  infraction  of  his  orders  by  the  alleged 
necessity  of  touching  at  the  island  to  caulk  and  refit  his  ves- 
sels, and  to  procure  provisions.  His  true  object,  however,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  to  cut  dyewood,  which  abounds  in  the 
western  part  of  Hispaniola. 

He  accordingly  anchored  at  Yaquimo  in  September,  and 
landed  with  a  large  party  of  his  men.  Columbus  at  that  time 
held  command  of  the  island,  and,  hearing  of  this  unlicensed 
intrusion,  despatched  Francesco  Eoldan,  the  quondam  rebel, 
to  call  Ojeda  to  account.  The  contest  of  stratagem  and  man- 
agement that  took  place  between  these  two  adroit  and  daring 
adventurers  has  already  been  detailed  m  the  History  of  Colum- 
bus. Roldan  was  eventually  successful,  and  Ojeda,  being 
obliged  to  leave  Hispaniola,  resumed  his  rambling  voyage,  vis- 
iting various  islands,  from  whence  he  carried  off  numbers  of 
the  natives.  He  at  length  arrived  at  Cadiz,  in  June,  1500, 
with  his  ships  crowded  with  captives,  whom  he  sold  as  slaves. 


Sebastian,  who  was  born  in  Bristol.  They  sailed  under  a  Hcense  of  Henry  VII..  who 
was  to  have  a  fifth  of  the  profits  of  the  voyage.  On  the  24th  June  they  dis- 
covered Newfoundland,  and  afterwards  coasted  the  continent  quite  to  Florida, 
bringing  back  to  England  a  valuable  cargo  and  several  of  the  natives.  This  was  the 
firxt  dixcovery  nf  the  mainland  of  Anwrica.  The  success  of  this  expedition  may- 
have  prompted  the  one  which  Ojeda  encountered  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Coqui- 
b^oa. 


ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  21 

So  meagre,  however,  was  the  result  of  this  expedition,  that  we 
are  told,  when  all  the  expenses  were  deducted,  but  live  hun- 
dred ducats  remained  to  be  divided  between  fifty-five  adven- 
turers. What  made  this  result  the  m(n-e  mortifying  was,  that 
a  petty  armament  which  had  sailed  sometime  after  that  of 
Ojeda,  had  returned  two  months  before  him,  rich  with  the 
spoils  of  the  New  World.  A  brief  account  of  this  latter  expe- 
dition is  necessary  to  connect  this  series  of  minor  discoveries. 


22  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 


PEDRO  ALONZO  NINO*  AND  CHRISTOVAL 
GUERRA.-(1499.) 


The  permission  granted  by  Bishop  Fonseca  to  Alonzo  de 
Ojeda,  to  undertake  a  private  expedition  to  the  New  World, 
roused  the  emulation  of  others  of  the  followers  of  Coliinibus. 
Among  these  was  Pedro  Alonzo  Nino,  a  hardy  seaman,  native 
of  Moguer  in  the  vicinity  of  Palos,  who  had  sailed  with  Colum- 
bus, as  a  pilot,  in  his  first  voyage,  and  also  in  his  cruisings 
along  the  coasts  of  Cuba  and  Paria.f  He  soon  obtained  from 
the  bishop  a  similar  Hcense  |;o  that  given  to  Ojeda,  and,  Hke 
the  latter,  sought  for  some  monied  confederate  among  the 
rich  merchants  of  Seville.  One  of  these,  named  Luis  Guerra, 
offered  to  fit  out  a  caravel  for  the  expedition ;  but  on  condition 
that  his  brother,  Christoval  Gueria,  should  have  the  command. 
The  poverty  of  Niiio  compelled  him  to  assent  to  the  stipula- 
tions of  the  man  of  wealth,  and  he  sailed  as  subaltern  in  his 
own  enterprise;  but  his  nautical  skill  and  knowledge  soon 
gained  hun  the  ascendancy,  he  became  virtually  the  captain, 
and  ultimately  enjoyed  the  whole  credit  of  the  voyage. 

The  bark  of  these  two  adventurers  was  but  of  fifty  tons  bur- 
then, and  the  crew  thirty-three  souls  all  told.  With  tliis  slen- 
der armament  they  undertook  to  traverse  unknown  and  dan- 
gerous seas,  and  to  explore  the  barbarous  shores  of  that  vast 
continent  recently  discovered  by  Columbus;— such  was  the 
danng  spirit  of  the  Spanish  voyagers  of  those  days. 

It  was  about  the  beginning  of  June,  1499,  and  but  a  few  days 
after  the  departure  of  Ojeda,  that  they  put  to  sea.  They 
sailed  from  the  little  port  of  Palos,  the  original  cradle  of  Amer- 
ican discovery,  whose  brave  and  skilful  mariners  long  contin- 
ued foremost  in  all  enterprises  to  the  New  World.  Being 
guided  by  the  chart  of  Columbus,  they  followed  his  route,  and 


*  Pronounced  Ninyo.    The  5i  in  Spanish  is  always  pronounced  as  if  followed  by 
the  letter  y. 
•t  Testimony  of  Bastides  in  the  law-suit  of  Diego  Columbus. 


PEDRO  ALONZO  NiMO  AND  CHIUSTOVAL   G  UKRRA.  23 

reached  the  southern  continent,  a  little  beyond  Paria,  about 
fifteen  days  after  the  same  coast  had  been  visited  by  Ojeda. 

They  then  proceeded  to  the  gulf  of  Paria,  where  they  landed 
to  cut  dye-wood,  and  were  amicably  entertained  by  the 
natives.  Shortlj'  after,  sallying  from  the  gulf  by  tlie  Boca  del 
Drago,  they  encountered  eighteen  canoe,s  of  Caribs,  the  pii-ate- 
rovers  of  these  seas  and  the  terror  of  the  iDordering  lands. 
This  savage  armada,  instead  of  being  daunted  as  usual  by  the 
sight  of  a  European  ship  with  swelling  sails,  resembling  some 
winged  monster  of  the  deep,  considered  it  only  as  an  object  of 
phmder  or  hostility,  and  assailed  it  with  showers  of  arrows. 
The  sudden  burst  of  ai-tilleiy,  however,  from  the  sides  of  the 
caravel  and  the  havoc  made  among  the  Caribs  by  this  scorning 
thunder,  struck  them  with  dismay  and  thej'  fled  in  all  direc- 
tions. The  Spaniards  succeeded  in  capturing  one  of  the  canoes, 
with  one  of  the  warriors  who  had  manned  it.  In  the  bottom 
of  the  canoe  lay  an  Indian  prisoner  bound  hand  and  foot.  On 
being  liberated,  he  infonned  the  Spaniards  by  signs  that  these 
Caribs  had  been  on  a  marauding  expedition  along  the  neigh- 
bouring coasts,  shutting  themselves  up  at  night  in  a  stockade 
which  they  carried  with  them,  and  issuing  forth  by  day  to 
plunder  the  villages  and  to  make  captives.  He  had  been 
one  of  seven  prisoners.  His  companions  had  been  devoured 
before  his  eyes  at  the  cannibal  banquets  of  these  savages,  and 
he  had  been  awaiting  the  same  miserable  fate.  Honest  Nino 
and  his  confederates  were  so  indignant  at  this  recital,  that, 
receiving  it  as  established  fact,  they  performed  what  they  con- 
sidered an  act  of  equitable  justice,  by  abandoning  the  Carib  to 
the  discretion  of  his  late  captive.  The  latter  fell  upon  the 
defenceless  warrior  with  fist  and  foot  and  cudgel ;  nor  did  his 
rage  subside  even  after  the  breath  had  been  mauled  out  of  his 
victim,  but,  tearing  the  gi-im  head  from  the  body,  he  placed  it 
on  a  pole  as  a  trophy  of  his  vengeance. 

Nino  and  his  fellow-adventurers  now  steered  for  the  island 
of  Margarita,  where  they  obtained  a  considerable  quantity  of 
pearls  by  barter.  They  afterwards  skirted  the  opposite  coast 
of  Cumana,  trading  cautiously  and  shrewdly  from  port  to  port, 
sometimes  remaining  on  board  of  their  little  bark,  and  obliging 
the  savages  to  come  off  to  them,  when  the  latter  appeared  too 
numerous,  at  other  times  venturing  on  shore,  and  even  into 
the  interior.  They  were  invariably  treated  with  amity  by  the 
natives,  who  were  perfectly  naked,  exceptmg  that  they  were 
adorned  with  necklaces  and  bracelets  of  pearls.    These  they 


24  SPAmSH    VOYAUEti   UF  DISCOVERY. 

sometimes  gave  freely  to  the  Spaniards,  at  other  times  they 
exchanged  them  ior  glass  beads  and  other  trinkets,  and 
smiled  at  the  folly  of  the  strangers  in  making  such  silly  bar- 
gains/" 

The  Spaniards  were  struck  with  the  gi'andeur  and  density 
of  the  forests  along  this  coast,  for  in  these  regions  of  heat 
and  moisture,  vegetation  appears  in  its  utmost  magnificence. 
They  heard  also  the  cries  and  roarings  of  wild  and  unknown 
animals  in  the  woodlands,  wliich,  however,  appeared  not  to  be 
very  dangerous,  as  the  Indians  went  about  the  forest  armed 
solely  with  bows  and  arrows.  From  meeting  with  deer  and 
rabbits,  they  were  convinced  that  that  was  a  part  of  Terra 
Firma,  not  having  found  any  animals  of  the  kind  on  the 
islands,  t 

Niao  and  Guerra  were  so  well  pleased  with  the  hospitaUty 
of  the  natives  of  Cumana,  and  with  the  profitable  traflBc  for 
pearls,  by  which  they  obtained  many  of  great  size  and  beauty, 
that  they  remained  upwards  of  three  months  on  the  coast. 

They  then  proceeded  westward  to  a  covmtry  called  Cauchieto, 
trading  as  usual  for  pearls,  and  for  the  inferior  kind  of  gold 
called  guanin.  At  length  they  arrived  at  a  place  where  there 
was  a  kind  of  fortress  protecting  a  number  of  houses  and 
gardens  situated  on  a  river,  the  whole  forming  to  the  eyes  of 
the  Spaniards  one  of  the  most  delicious  abodes  imaginable. 
They  were  about  to  land  and  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  this 
fancied  i^aradise,  when  they  beheld  upwards  of  a  thousand 
Indians,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  and  war-clubs,  prepar- 
ing to  give  them  a  warm  reception;  having  been  probably 
incensed  by  the  recent  visit  of  Ojeda.  As  Nino  and  Guerra 
had  not  the  fightmg  propensities  of  Ojeda,  and  were  in  quest 
of  profit  rather  than  renown,  having,  moreover,  in  aU  proba- 
bility, the  fear  of  the  rich  merchant  of  Seville  before  their 
eyes,  they  prudently  abstained  from  landing,  and,  abandoning 
this  hostile  coast,  returned  forthwith  to  Cumana  to  resimie 
their  trade  foi'  pearls.  They  soon  amassed  a  great  number, 
many  of  wliich  were  equal  in  size  and  beauty  to  the  most  cele- 
brated of  the  East,  though  they  had  been  injured  in  boring 
from  a  Avant  of  proper  implements. 

Satisfied  with  their  success  they  now  set  sail  for  Spain,  and 
piloted  their  Httle  bark  safely  to  Bayonne  in  GaUicia,  where 
they  anchored  about  the  middle  of  April,  1500,   nearly  two 

*  LasCasas.    Hist.  Ind.,  lib.  i.  c.  171.  t  Navarrete,  t.  iii.  p.  14. 


PEDRO  ALONZO  NiMo  AND  CHUISTOVAL  GUERRA.   95 

months  before  the  arrival  of  Ojeda  and  his  associates,  La  Cosa 
and  Vespucci.* 

The  most  successful  voyagers  to  the  Now  World  were  doomed 
to  trouble  from  thcii*  very  success.  The  am]i)le  amount  of 
pearls  paid  to  the  treasury,  as  the  royal  portion  of  the  profits 
of  this  expedition,  drew  suspicion  instead  of  favour  upon  the 
two  adventurers.  They  were  accused  of  having  concealed  a 
great  part  of  the  pearls  collected  by  them,  thus  defrauding 
their  companions  and  the  crown.  Pedro  Alonzo  Niilo  was 
actually  thrown  into  prison  on  this  accusation,  but,  nothing 
being  proved  against  him,  was  eventually  set  free,  and  enjoyed 
the  enviable  reputation  of  having  perfoi*med  the  richest 
voyage  that  had  yet  been  made  to  the  New  World,  f 


*  Peter  Martyr.    Other  liistorians  give  a  different  date  for  their  arrival.    Herrera 
says  Feb.  C. 
t  Navarrete.    Collect,  t.  iii.  p.  11.    Herrera,  d.  i.  1.  iv.  c.  v.     / 


26  SPAmSH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 


VICENTE  YANEZ  PmZON.-(1499). 


Among  the  maritime  adventurers  of  renown  who  were 
roused  to  action  by  the  hcenses  granted  for  private  expeditions 
of  discovery,  Ave  find  conspicuous  the  name  of  Vicente  Yanez 
Pinzon,  of  Palos,  one  of  the  tliree  brave  brothers  who  aided 
Cohimbus  in  his  first  voyage  and  risked  hfe  and  fortune  with 
him  in  his  doubtful  and  perilous  enterprise. 

Of  Martin  Alonzo  Pinzon,  the  eldest  and  most  important  of 
these  three  brothers,  jjariicular  mention  has  been  made  in  the 
History  of  Columbus,  and  of  the  unfortunate  error  in  conduct 
which  severed  him  from  the  admiral,  brought  on  liim  the  dis- 
pleasure of  the  sovereigns,  and  probably  contributed  to  his 
premature  and  melancholy  death. 

Whatever  cloud  of  disgrace  may  have  overshadowed  his 
family,  it  was  but  temporary.  The  death  of  Martin  Alonzo, 
as  usual,  atoned  for  his  faults,  and  his  good  deeds  lived  after 
him.  The  merits  and  services  of  himseK  and  his  brothers 
were  acknowledged,  and  the  survivors  of  the  family  were 
restored  to  royal  confidence.  A  feeling  of  jealous  hostility 
prevented  them  from  taking  a  part  in  the  subsequent  voyages 
of  Columbus ;  but  the  moment  the  door  was  thrown  open  for 
individual  enterprise,  they  pressed  forward  for  permission  to 
engage  in  it  at  their  own  risk  and  expense— and  it  was  readily 
granted.  In  fact,  their  supposed  hostility  to  Columbus  was 
one  of  the  surest  recommendations  they  could  have  to  the 
favour  of  the  Bishop  Fonseca,  by  whom,  the  license  was  issued 
for  their  expedition. 

Vicente  Yanez  Pinzon  was  the  leader  of  tliis  new  enterprise, 
and  he  was  accompanied  by  two  nephews  named  Arias  Perez 
and  Diego  Fernandez,  sons  of  his  late  brother,  Martin  Alonzo 
Pinzon.  Several  of  his  sailors  had  sailed  with  Columbus  in 
his  recent  voyage  to  Paria,  as  had  also  liis  three  principal 
pilots,  Juan  Quintero,  Juan  de  Umbria,  and  Juan  de  Jerez. 
Thus  these  minor  voyages  seemed  all  to  emanate  from  the 


VICENTE  TA^EZ  PINZON.  27 

great  expeditions  of  Columbus,  and  to  aim  at  realizing  the 
ideas  and  speculations  contained  in  the  papers  transmitted  by 
him  to  Spain. 

The  armament  consisted  of  four  caravels,  and  was  fitted  out 
at  the  port  of  Palos.  The  funds  of  Vicente  Yaiiez  were  com- 
pletely exhausted  before  he  had  fitted  out  his  little  v^quadron ; 
he  was  obliged,  therefore,  to  purchase  on  credit  the  sea-stores 
and  articles  of  traffic  necessary  for  the  enterprise.  The  mer- 
chants of  Palos  seemed  to  have  known  how  to  profit  by  the 
careless  nature  of  sailors  and  the  sanguine  spirit  of  dis- 
coverers. In  their  bargains  they  charged  honest  Pinzon 
eighty  and  a  hundred  per  cent,  above  the  market  value  of 
their  merchandise,  and  in  the  hurry  and  urgency  of  the 
moment  he  was  obliged  to  submit  to  the  imposition.* 

The  squadron  put  to  sea  in  the  beginning  of  December,  1499, 
and,  after  passing  the  Canary  and  Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  stood 
to  the  south-west.  Having  sailed  about  seven  hundred  leagues, 
they  crossed  the  equator  and  lost  sight  of  the  north  star. 
They  had  scarcely  passed  the  equinoctial  line  when  they 
encountered  a  terrible  tempest,  which  had  well-nigh  swallowed 
up  their  slender  barks.  The  storm  passed  away  and  the 
firmament  was  again  serene ;  but  the  mariners  remained  tossing 
about  in  confusion,  dismayed  by  the  turbulence  of  the  waves 
and  the  strange  aspect  of  the  heavens.  They  looked  in  vain  to 
the  south  for  some  polar  star  by  which  to  shape  their  course, 
and  fancied  that  some  swelling  prominence  of  the  globe  con- 
cealed it  from  their  view.  They  knew  nothing  as  yet  of  the 
firmament  of  tliat  hemisphere,  nor  of  that  beautiful  constella- 
tion, the  southern  cross,  but  expected  to  find  a  guiding  star  at 
the  opposite  pole,  similar  to  the  cynosure  of  the  north. 

Pinzt)n,  however,  who  was  of  an  intrepid  spirit,  pursued  his 
course  resolutely  to  the  west,  and  after  sailing  about  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  leagues,  and  being  in  the  eighth  degree  of 
southern  latitude,  he  beheld  land  afar  off  on  the  2Sth  of 
January,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Sania  Maria  de  la 
Consolacion,  from  the  sight  of  it  having  consoled  him  in  the 
midst  of  doubts  and  perplexities.  It  is  now  called  Cape  St. 
Augustine,  and  forms  the  most  prominent  part  of  the  immense 
empire  of  Brazil. 

The  sea  was  turbid  and  discoloured  as  in  rivers,  and  on 

*  Navarrete,  vol.  lii.    See  Doc.  No.  7,  where  Vincente  Yafiez  Pinzon  petitiong  for 

redress. 


28  SPANISH    VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

sounding  they  had  sixteen  fathoms  of  water,  Pinzon  landed, 
accompanied  by  a  notary  and  witnesses,  and  took  formal  pos- 
session of  the  territory  for  the  Castilian  crown ;  no  one  appear- 
ed to  dispute  his  pretensions,  but  he  observed  the  print  of 
footsteps  on  the  beacli  which  seemed  of  gigantic  size. 

At  night  there  were  fires  hghted  upon  a  neighbouring  part 
of  the  coast,  which  induced  Pmzon  on  the  following  morning 
to  send  forty  men  well  armed  to  the  spot.  A  band  of  Indians, 
of  about  equal  number,  sallied  forth  to  encounter  them,  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  and  seemingly  of  extraordinary  stature. 
A  still  greater  number  were  seen  in  the  distance  hastening  to 
the  support  of  their  companions.  The  Indians  arrayed  them- 
selves for  combat,  and  the  two  parties  remained  for  a  short 
time  eyeing  each  other  with  mutual  curiosity  and  distrust. 
The  Spaniards  now  displayed  looking-glasses,  beads,  and  other 
trinkets,  and  jingled  strings  of  hawks'  bells,  in  general  so  capti- 
vating to  an  Indian  ear ;  but  the  haughty  savages  treated  aU 
their  overtures  with  contempt,  regarding  these  offerings  care- 
lessly for  a  short  time,  and  then  stalking  off  with  stoic  gravity. 
They  were  ferocious  of  feature,  and  apparently  warlike  in  dis- 
position, and  are  supposed  to  have  been  a  wandering  race  of 
unusual  size,  who  roamed  about  in  the  night,  and  were  of  the 
most  fierce,  untractable  nature.  By  nightfall  there  was  not  an 
Indian  to  be  seen  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Discovu*aged  hj  the  inhospitable  character  of  the  coast,  Pin- 
zon made  sail  and  stood  to  the  north-west,  until  he  came  to  the 
mouth  of  a  river  too  shallow  to  receive  his  ships.  Here  he 
sent  his  boats  on  shore  with  a  number  of  men  well  armed. 
They  landed  on  the  river  banks,  and  beheld  a  multitude  of 
naked  Indians  on  a  neighbouring  hill.  A  single  Spaniard  armed 
simply  with  sword  and  buckler  was  sent  to  invite  them  to 
friendly  intercourse.  He  approached  them  with  signs  of  amity, 
and  threw  to  thein  a  hawk's  bell.  They  replied  to  him  with 
similar  signs,  and  threw  to  him  a  small  gilded  wand.  The 
soldier  stooped  to  pick  it  up,  when  suddenly  a  troop  of  sav- 
ages rushed  down  to  seize  him ;  he  threw  himself  immediately 
upon  the  defensive,  with  sword  and  target,  and  though  but  a 
small  man,  and  far  from  robust,  he  handled  his  weapons  with 
such  dexterity  and  fierceness,  that  he  kept  the  savages  at  bay, 
making  a  clear  circle  round  him,  and  wounding  several  who 
attempted  to  break  it.  His  unlooked-for  prowess  surprised 
and  confounded  his  assailants,  and  gave  time  for  his  comrades 
to  come  to  his  assistance.    The  Indians  then  made  a  general 


VICENTE  TA^EZ  PINZOK  29 

assault,  Avith  such  a  gnlling  discharge  of  darts  and  arrows  that 
almost  immediately  eight  or  ten  Spaniards  were  slain,  and 
many  more  wounded.  The  latter  were  compelled  to  retreat  to 
their  hoats  disputing  overy  inch  of  ground.  The  Indians  pur- 
sued them  even  into  the  water,  surroimding  the  boats  and 
seizing  hold  of  the  oars.  The  Spaniards  made  a  desperate 
defence,  thrusting  many  through  with  their  lances,  and  cutting 
down  and  ripping  up  others  with  their  swords ;  but  such  was 
the  ferocity  of  the  survivors,  that  they  persisted  in  their  at- 
tack imtil  they  overpowered  the  crew  of  one  of  the  boats,  and 
bore  it  off  in  triumph.  With  this  they  retired  from  the  com- 
bat, and  the  Spaniards  returned,  defeated  and  disheartened,  to 
their  ships,  having  met  with  the  roughest  reception  that  the 
Europeans  had  yet  experienced  in  the  New  World. 

Pinzon  now  stood  forty  leagues  to  the  north-west,  until  he 
arrived  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  equinoctial  line.  Here 
he  found  the  water  of  the  sea  so  fresh  that  he  was  enabled  to 
replenish  his  casks  with  it.  Astonished  at  so  singular  a  phe- 
nomenon he  stood  in  for  the  land,  and  arrived  among  a  ninnber 
ol:  fresh  and  verdant  islands,  inhabited  by  a  gentle  and  hospi- 
table race  of  people,  gaily  painted,  who  came  off  to  the  ships 
with  the  most  frank  and  fearless  confidence.  Pinzon  soon 
found  that  these  islands  lay  in  the  mouth  of  an  immense  river, 
more  than  thirty  leagues  in  breadth,  the  water  of  which  entered 
upwards  of  forty  leagues  into  the-  sea  before  losing  its  sweet- 
ness. It  was,  in  fact,  the  renowned  Mnranou,  since  known  as 
the  Orellana  and  the  Amazon.  While  lying  in  the  mouth  of 
this  river  there  was  a  sudden  swelUng  of  the  stream,  which, 
being  opposed  by  the  current  of  the  sea,  and  straitened  by  the 
narrow  channels  of  the  islands,  rose  more  than  five  fathoms, 
with  moiuatain  waves,  and  a  tremendous  noise,  threatening 
the  destruction  of  the  ships.  Pinzon  extricated  his  little 
squadron  with  gi-eat  difficulty  from  this  perilous  situation, 
and  finding  there  was  but  little  gold  or  any  thing  else  of  value 
to  be  found  among  the  simple  natives,  he  requited  their  hospi- 
tality, in  the  mode  too  common  among  the  early  discoverers, 
by  carrj'ing  off  thirty-six  of  them  cajjtive. 

Having  regained  the  sight  of  the  polar  star,  Pinzon  pursued 
his  course  along  the  coast,  passing  the  mouths  of  the  Oronoko, 
and  entering  the  Gidf  of  Paria,  where  he  landed  and  cut  Bra- 
zil-wood. Sallying  forth  by  the  Boca  del  Drago,  he  reached' 
the  island  of  Hispaniola  about  the  23d  of  Jtnie,  from  wlience 
he  sailed  for  the  Bahamas.     Here,  in  the  month  of  July,  while 


30  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

at  anchor,  there  came  such  a  tremendous  hurricane  that  two 
of  the  caravels  were  swallowed  up  with  all  their  crews  in  the 
sight  of  their  tei'rified  companions ;  a  third  parted  her  cables 
and  was  driven  out  to  sea,  while  the  fourth  was  so  furiously- 
beaten  by  the  tempest  that  the  crew  threw  themselves  into 
the  boats  and  made  for  shore.  Here  they  found  a  few  naked 
Indians,  who  offered  them  no  molestation;  but,  fearing  that 
they  might  spread  the  tidings  of  a  handful  of  shipwrecked 
Spaniards  being  upon  the  coast,  and  thus  bring  the  savages  of 
the  neighbouring  islands  upon  them,  a  council  of  war  was  held 
whether  it  would  not  be  a  wise  precaution  to  put  these  Indians 
to  death.  Fortunately  for  the  latter,  the  vessel  which  had 
been  driven  from  her  anchors  returned  and  put  an  end  to  the 
alarm,  and  to  the  council  of  war.  The  other  caravel  also  rode 
out  the  storm  uninjured,  and  the  sea  subsiding,  the  Spaniards 
returned  on  board,  and  made  the  best  of  their  way  to  the 
Island  of  Hispaniola.  Having  repaired  the  damages  sustained 
in  the  gale,  they  again  made  sail  for  Spain,  and  caine  to  anchor 
in  the  river  before  Palos  about  the  end  of  September. 

Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  chequered  u,nd  disastrous  voy- 
ages that  had  yet  been  made  to  the  New  World.  Yanez  Pinzon 
had  lost  two  of  his  ships,  and  many  of  his  men ;  what  made 
the  loss  of  the  latter  more  grievous  was  that  they  had  been  en- 
listed from  among  liis  neighbours,  his  friends,  and  relatives. 
In  fact,  the  expeditions  to  the  New  World  must  have  realized 
the  terrors  and  apprehensions  of  the  people  of  Palos  by  filling 
that  httle  community  with  widows  and  orphans.  When  the 
rich  merchants,  who  had  sold  goods  to  Pinzon,  at  a  hundred 
per  cent,  advance,  beheld  him  return  in  this  sorry  condition, 
with  two  shattered  barks  and  a  handful  of  poor  tattered, 
weather-beaten  seamen,  they  began  to  tremble  for  their 
money.  No  sooner,  therefore,  had  he  and  his  nephews  de- 
parted to  Granada,  to  give  an  account  of  their  discoveries  to 
the  sovereigns,  than  the  merchants  seized  upon  their  caravels 
and  cargoes,  and  began  to  sell  them  to  repay  themselves.  Hon- 
est Pinzon  immediately  addressed  a  petition  to  the  govern- 
ment, stating  the  imposition  that  had  been  practised  upon 
him,  and  the  danger  he  was  in  of  imprisonment  and  utter  ruin, 
should  his  creditors  be  allowed  to  sacrifice  his  goods  at  a  pub- 
lic sale.  He  petitioned  that  they  might  bo  compelled  to  return 
the  property  thus  seized,  and  that  he  might  be  enabled  to  sell 
three  hundred  and  fifty  quintals  of  Brazil-wood,  which  he  had 
brought  back  with  him,  and  which  would  be  sufficient  to 


VICENTE  YA^'EZ  PINZOK  31 

satisfy  the  demands  of  his  creditors.  The  sovereigns  granted 
his  prayer.  They  issued  an  order  to  the  civil  authorities  of 
Palos  to  interfere  in  the  matter,  with  all  possible  promptness 
and  brevity,  allowing  no  vexatious  delay,  and  administering 
justice  so  impartially  that  neither  of  the  parties  should  have 
cause  to  complain. 

Pinzon  escaped  from  the  fangs  of  his  creditors,  but,  of 
course,  must  have  suffered  in  purse  from  the  expenses  of  the 
law ;  which,  in  Spain,  is  apt  to  bury  even  a  successful  client 
under  an  overwhelming  mountain  of  documents  and  writings. 
We  infer  this  in  respect  to  Pinzon  from  a  royal  order  issued  in 
the  following  year  allowing  him  to  export  a  (juantity  of  grain, 
in  consideration  of  the  heavy  losses  he  had  sustained  in  his 
voyage  of  discov^ery.  He  did  but  share  the  usual  lot  of  the 
Spanish  discoverers,  whose  golden  anticipations  too  frequently 
ended  in  penury;  but  he  is  distinguished  from  among  the 
crowd  of  them  by  being  the  first  European  who  crossed  the 
Equinoctial  line,  on  the  western  ocean,  and  by  discovering 
the  gi-eat  kingdom  of  Brazil.* 


*  On  the  5th  of  September,  1501,  a  royal  permission  was  given  to  Vicente  Yanez 
Pinzon  to  colonize  and  govern  tlie  lands  he  had  discovered,  beginning  a  little  north 
of  the  river  Amazon,  and  extending  to  Cape  St.  Augustine.  The  object  of  the  gov- 
ernment in  this  permission  wa.s  to  establish  an  outpost  and  a  resolute  commander 
on  this  southern  frontier,  that  slioukl  check  any  intrusions  the  Portugese  might 
make  in  consequence  of  the  accidental  discovery  of  a  part  of  the  coast  of  Brazil  by 
Pedro  Alvarez  Cabral.  in  1.500.  The  subsequent  ariangement  of  a  partition  line  be- 
tween the  two  countries  prevented  the  necessity  of  this  precaution,  and  it  does  not 
appear  that  Vicente  Yanez  Pinzon  made  any  second  voyage  to  those  parts. 

In  l.'iOO  he  undert'.)ok  an  e.Kpedition  in  company  with  Juan  Diaz  de  Solis,  a  native 
of  Lebrija.  the  object  of  which  was  to  endeavour  to  find  the  strait  or  passage  sup- 
pose<l  by  Columbus  to  lead  from  the  Atlantic  to  a  southern  ocean.  It  was  neces- 
sarily without  success,  as  was  also  another  voyage  made  by  them,  for  the  same 
purpose,  in  1.51)8.  As  no  such  passage  exists,  no  blame  could  attach  to  those  able 
navigators  for  being  foiled  in  the  object  of  their  search. 

In  consequence  of  the  distinguished  merits  and  services  of  the  Pinzon  family  they 
were  raised,  by  the  emperor  Charles  V.,  to  the  dignity  of  a  Hidalguia,  or  nobility, 
without  any  express  title,  and  a  coat  of  arms  was  grunted  them,  on  which  were 
emblazoned  three  caravels,  with  a  hand  at  the  stern  pointing  to  an  island  covered 
with  savages.  This  coat  of  arms  is  still  maintained  by  the  family,  who  have  added 
to  it  the  motto  granted  to  Columbus,  merely  substitatiug  the  name  of  Pinzon  for 
that  of  the  Admiral, 

A  Castile  y  a  Leon, 
Nuevo  Mundo  dio  Pinzon. 


32  SPAmSH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 


DIEGO  DE  LEPE  AND  RODRIGO  DE  BASTIDES. 

(1500.) 


Notwithstanding  the  hardships  and  disasters  that  had  beset 
the  voyages  to  the  New  World,  and  the  penury  in  which  their 
golden  anticipations  had  too  frequently  tei-minated,  adventur- 
ers continued  to  press  forward,  excited  by  fresh  reports  of 
newly-discovered  regions,  each  of  which,  in  its  turn  was  repre- 
sented as  the  real  land  of  promise.  Scarcely  had  Vicente 
Yaiiez  Pinzon  departed  on  the  voyage  recently  narrated,  when 
his  townsman,  Diego  de  Lepe,  likewise  set  sail  with  two 
vessels  from  the  busy  little  port  of  Palos  on  a  like  expedition. 
No  particulars  of  importance  are  known  of  tliis  voyage, 
excepting  that  Lepe  doubled  Cape  St.  Augustine,  and  beheld 
the  southern  continent  stretching  far  to  the  southwest.  On  re- 
turning to  Spain  he  drew  a  chart  of  the  coast  for  the  bishop 
Fonseca,  and  enjoyed  the  reputation,  for  upAvards  of  ten  years 
afterwards,  of  having  extended  his  discoveries  further  south 
than  any  other  voyager. 

Another  contemporary  adventurer  to  the  New  World  was 
Rodrigo  de  Bastides,  a  wealthy  notary  of  Triana,  the  suburb  of 
Seville  inhabited  by  the  maritime  part  of  its  population.  Be- 
ing sanctioned  by  the  sovereigns,  to  \5^honi  he  engaged  to 
yield  a  fourth  of  his  profits,  he  fitted  out  two  caravels  in  Octo- 
ber, 1500,  to  go  in  quest  of  gold  and  pearls. 

Prudently  distrusting  his  own  judgment  in  nautical  matters, 
this  adventurous  notary  associated  with  him  the  veteran  pilot 
Juan  de  la  Cosa,  the  same  hardy  Biscayan  who  had  sailed 
with  Columbus  and  Ojeda.  A  general  outlme  of  their  voyage 
has  already  been  given  in  the  life  of  Columbus ;  it  extended  the 
discoveries  of  the  coast  of  Terra  Firma  from  Cape  de  la  Vela, 
where  Ojeda  had  left  off,  quite  to  the  port  of  Nombre  de  Dios. 

Bastides  distinguished  himself  from  the  mass  of  discoverers 
by  his  kind  treatment  of  the  natives,  and  Juan  de  la  Cosa  by 
his  sound  discretion  and  his  able  seamanship.     Their  voyage 


DIEGO  DE  LEPE  AND  RODIUGO  DE  BASTIDES.      33 

had  been  extremely  successful,  and  they  had  collected,  by 
barter,  a  great  amount  of  gold  and  pearls,  when  their  prosper- 
ous career  was  checked  by  an  unlooked-for  evil.  Their  vessels, 
to  their  surprise,  became  Icakj^  in  every  part,  and  they  discov- 
ered, to  their  dismay,  tliat  the  bottoms  were  i^ierced  in  innum- 
erable places  by  the  broma,  or  worm  which  abomids  in  the 
waters  of  the  torrid  zone,  but  of  which  they,  as  yet,  had 
scarcely  any  knowledge.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  they 
could  keep  afloat  until  they  reached  a  small  islet  on  the  coast 
of  Ilispaniola.  Here  they  repaired  their  ships  as  well  as  they 
were  able,  and  again  put  to  sea  to  return  to  Cadiz.  A  succes- 
sion of  gales  drove  them  back  to  port ;  the  ravages  of  tho 
worms  continued ;  the  leaks  broke  out  afresh ;  they  landed  the 
most  portable  and  precious  part  of  their  wealthy  cargoes,  and 
the  vessels  foundered  with  the  remainder.  Bastides  lost, 
moreover,  the  arms  and  ammunition  saved  from  the  wreck, 
being  obliged  to  destroy  them  lest  they  should  faK  into  tho 
hands  of  the  Indians. 

Distributing  his  men,  into  three  bands,  two  oF  them  headed 
by  La  Cosa  and  himself,  they  set  off  for  San  Domingo  by  three 
several  routes,  as  the  country  was  not  able  to  furnish  provis- 
ions for  so  large  a  body.  Each  band  was  provided  with  a 
coffer  stored  with  trinkets  and  other  articles  of  Indian  traffic, 
with  which  to  buy  provisions  on  the  road. 

Francisco  de  Bobadilla,  the  wrong-headed  oppressor  and 
superscder  of  Columbus,  was  at  that  time  governor  of  San  Do- 
mingo. The  report  reached  him  that  a  crew  of  adventurers  had 
landed  on  the  island,  and  v/ere  marcliing  through  the  coimtry 
in  three  bands,  each  provided  with  a  coffer  of  gold,  and  carry- 
ing on  illicit  trade  with  the  natives.  Tho  moment  Bastides 
made  his  appearance,  therefore,  he  was  seized  and  throv/n  into 
prison,  and  an  investigation  commenced.  In  his  defence  he 
maintained  that  his  taily  traffic  with  the  natives  was  for  tho 
purpose  of  procuring  pj-ovisions  for  his  followers,  or  guides  for 
his  joiirncy.  It  was  determined,  however,  to  send  him  to 
Spain  for  trial,  with  the  v/rittcn  testimony  and  the  other  docu- 
ments of  his  examination. 

He  was  accordingly  conveyed  in  the  same  fleet  in  which  Bo- 
babilla  embarked  for  Spain,  and  which  experienced  such  an 
awful  shipwreck  in  the  sight  of  Columbus.  The  ship  Rodrigo 
Bastides  was  one  of  the  few  that  outlived  the  tempest:  it 
arrived  safe  at  Cadiz  in  September,  1502.  Bastides  was  ulti- 
mately acquitted  of  the  charges  advanced  against  him.    So 


34  SPANISII  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

lucrative  had  been  his  voyage,  that,  notwithstanding  the  losses 
sustained  by  the  foundering  of  his  vessels,  he  was  enabled 
to  pay  a  large  sum  to  the  crown  as  a  fourth  of  his  profits, 
and  to  retain  a  gi'cat  amount  for  himself.  In  reward  of  his 
services  and  discoveries  the  sovereigns  granted  him  an  annual 
revenue  for  life,  to  arise  from  the  proceeds  of  the  province  of 
Uraba,  which  ho  had  discovered.  An  equal  pension  was  hke- 
wise  assigned  to  the  hardy  Juan  de  la  Cosa,  to  residt  from  the 
same  territory,  of  which  he  was  appointed  Alguazil  Mayor.* 
Such  was  the  economical  generosity  of  King  Ferdinand,  Avho 
rewarded  the  past  toils  of  his  adventurous  discoverers  out 
of  the  expected  produce  of  their  future  labours. 

*  Navarrete.    Collec.  t.  iii. 


SECOND    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  35 


SECOND  VOYAGE   OF  ALOXZO   DE   OJEDA 

(1502.) 


The  first  voyage  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  to  the  coast  of  Paria, 
and  its  meagre  termination  in  June,  1500,  has  been  related. 
He  gained  nothing  in  wealth  by  that  expedition,  but  he  added 
to  his  celebrity  as  a  bold  and  skilful  adventurer.  His  youthful 
fire,  his  sanguine  and  swelling  spirit,  and  the  wonderful  stories 
that  were  told  of  his  activity  and  prowess,  made  him  extremely 
popular,  so  that  his  patron,  the  bishop  Fonseca,  found  it  an 
easy  matter  to  secure  for  him  the  royal  favour.  In  considera- 
tion of  his  past  services  and  of  othei's  expected  from  him,  a 
grant  was  made  to  him  of  six  leagues  of  laud  on  the  southern 
part  of  Hispaniola,  and  the  govermnent  of  the  province  of 
Coquibacoa  which  he  had  discovered.  He  was,  furthermore, 
authorized  to  fit  out  any  number  of  ships,  not  exceeding  ten, 
at  his  own  expense,  and  to  prosecute  the  discovery  of  the 
coast  of  Terra  Finna.  He  was  not  to  touch  or  traffic  on  the 
pearl  coast  of  Paria ;  extending  as  far  as  a  bay  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  island  of  Margarita.  Beyond  this  he  had  a  right  to 
trade  in  all  kinds  of  merchandise,  whether  of  pearls,  jewels, 
metals,  or  precious  stones ;  paying  one-fifth  of  the  profits  to 
the  crown,  and  abstaining  from  making  slaves  of  the  Indians 
without  a  special  license  from  the  sovereigns.  He  was  to  col- 
onize Coquibacoa,  and,  as  a  recompense,  was  to  enjoy  one-half 
of  the  proceeds  of  liis  territory,  provided  the  half  did  not 
exceed  300,000  maravedies:  all  beyond  that  amoimt  was  to  go 
to  the  crown. 

A  principal  reason,  however,  for  granting  this  government 
and  those  privileges  to  Ojeda,  wiis  that,  in  his  pre^aous  voyage, 
he  had  met  with  English  adventurers  on  a  voyage  of  discovery 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Coquibacoa,  at  which  the  jealousy  of 
the  sovertugns  had  taken  the  alarm.  They  were  anxious, 
therefore,  to  establish  a  resolute  and '  fightmg  commander  like 
Ojeda  upon  this  outpost,  and  they  instinicted  liim  to  set  up  the 


36  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

arms  of  Castile  and  Leon  in  every  place  he  visited,  as  a  signal 
of  discovery  and  possession,  and  to  put  a  stop  to  the  intrusions 
of  theEnghsh.* 

With  this  commission  in  his  pocket,  and  the  government  of 
an  Indian  territory  in  the  perspective,  Ojeda  soon  foimd  asso- 
ciates to  aid  him  in  fitting  out  an  armament.  These  were 
Juan  de  Vergara,  a  servant  of  a  rich  canon  of  the  cathedral  of 
Seville,  and  Garcia  de  Campos,  commonly  called  Ocampo. 
They  made  a  contract  of  partnership  to  last  for  two  years, 
according  to  Avhich  the  expenses  and  profits  of  the  expedition, 
and  of  the  government  of  Coquibacoa,  were  to  be  shared 
equally  between  them.  The  purses  of  the  confederates  were 
not  ample  enough  to  afford  ten  ships,  but  they  fitted  out  four. 
1st,  The  Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua,  commanded  by  Garcia  del 
Campo;  2d,  The  Santa  Maria  de  la  Granada,  commanded  by 
Juan  de  Vergara ;  3d,  The  Caravel  Magdalena,  commanded  by 
Pedro  de  Ojeda,  nephew  to  Alonzo;  and  4th,  The  Caravel 
Santa  Ana,  commanded  by  Hernando  de  Guevara.  The 
whole  was  under  the  command  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda.  The 
expedition  set  sail  in  1502,  touched  at  the  Canaries,  according 
to  custom,  to  take  in  provisions,  and  then  proceeded  westward 
for  the  shores  of  the  New  World. 

After  traversing  the  Gulf  of  Paria,  and  before  reaching  the 
Island  of  Margarita,  the  Caravel  Santa  Ana,  commanded  by 
Hernando  de  Guevara,  was  separated  from  them,  and  for  sev- 
eral days  the  ships  were  mutu-aUy  seeking  each  other,  in  these 
silent  and  trackless  seas.  After  they  were  all  reunited  they 
found  their  provisions  growing  scanty ;  they  landed  therefore 
at  a  part  of  the  coast  called  Cumana  by  the  natives,  but  to 
which,  from  its  beauty  and  fertility,  Ojefla  gave  the  name  of 
Valfermoso.  While  foraging  here  for  their  immediate  sup- 
plies, the  idea  occurred  to  Ojeda  that  he  should  want  fui-niture 
and  utensils  of  all  kinds  for  his  proposed  colony,  and  that  it 
would  be  better  to  pillage  them  from  a  country  where  he  was 
a  mere  transient  visitor,  than  to  "wrest  them  from  his  neigh- 
bours in  the  territory  where  he  was  to  set  up  his  government. 
His  companions  were  struck  with  the  policy,  if  not  the  justice, 
of  this  idea,  and  they  all  set  to  work  to  carry  it  into  execution. 
Dispersing  themselves,  therefore,  in  ambush  in  various  direc- 
tions, they  at  a  concerted  signal  rushed  forth  from  their  con- 
cealment, and  set  upon  l^he  natives.     Ojeda  had  issued  orders 

*  Navarrete,  t.  iii.,  document  x. 


SISCOM)    VOYAGE  OB'  ALONZO  DK  OJEDA.  37 

to  do  as  little  injury  and  damap:o  as  possible,  and  on  no  ac- 
count to  destroy  the  habitations  of  the  Indians.  His  followers, 
however,  in  their  great  zeal,  transcended  his  orders.  Seven  or 
eight  Indians  were  killed  and  many  wounded  in  the  skirmish 
which  took  place,  and  a  number  of  their  cabins  were  wrapped 
in  flames.  A  great  quantity  of  hammocks,  of  cotton,  and  of 
utensils  of  various  kinds,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  conquerors ; 
they  also  captured  several  female  Indians,  some  of  whom  were 
ransomed  with  the  kind  of  gold  called  guanin;  some  were 
retained  by  Vergara  for  himself  and  his  friend  Ocampo ;  others 
were  distributed  among  the  crews ;  the  rest,  probably  the  old 
and  ugly,  were  set  at  libei*ty.  As  to  Ojeda,  he  reserved  noth- 
ing for  himself  of  the  spoil  excepting  a  single  hammock. 

The  ransom  paid  by  the  poor  Indians  for  some  of  their  effects 
and  some  of  their  women,  yielded  the  Spaniards  a  trifling 
quantity  of  gold,  but  they  found  the  place  destitute  of  pro- 
visions, and  Ojeda  was  obliged  to  despatch  Vergara  in  a  cara- 
vel to  the  island  of  Jamaica  to  forage  for  supplies,  with 
instructions  to  rejoin  liim  at  Maracaibo  or  Cape  de  la  Vela. 

Ojeda  at  length  arrived  at  Coquibacoa,  at  the  port  destined 
for  his  seat  of  government.  He  found  the  country,  however, 
so  poor  and  sterile,  that  he  proceeded  along  the  coast  to  a  bay 
which  he  named  Santa  Ciniz,  but  which  is  supposed  to  be  the 
same  at  present  called  Bahia  Honda,  where  he  found  a  Span- 
iard who  had  been  left  in  the  province  of  Citarma  by  Bastides 
in  his  late  voyage  about  thirteen  months  before,  and  had  re- 
mained ever  since  among  the  Indians,  so  that  he  had  acquired 
their  language. 

Ojeda  determined  to  form  his  settlement  at  this  place;  but 
the  natives  seemed  disposed  to  defend  their  territory,  for,  the 
moment  a  party  landed  to  procure  water,  they  were  assailed 
by  a  galling  shower  of  arrows,  and  driven  back  to  the  ships. 
Upon  this  Ojeda  landed  with  all  his  force,  and  struck  such 
terror  into  the  Indians,  that  they  came  fonvard  with  signs  of 
amity,  and  brought  a  considerable  quantity  of  gold  as  a  peace- 
offering,  which  was  gi'aciously  accepted. 

Ojeda,  with  the  concurrence  of  his  associates,  now  set  to 
work  to  establish  a  settlement,  cutting  doAvn  trees,  and  com- 
mencing a  fortress.  They  had  scarce  begun,  when  they  were 
attacked  by  a  neighbouring  cacique,  but  Ojeda  sallied  forth 
upon  him  witli  such  intrepidity  and  effect  as  not  merely  to  de- 
feat, but  to  drive  him  from  the  neighbourhood.  He  then  pro- 
ceeded quietly  to  finish  his  fortress,  which  was  defended  by 


38  SPAmSII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERY. 

lombards,  and  contained  the  magazine  of  provisions  and  the 
treasure  amassed  in  the  expedition.  The  provisions  were 
dealt  out  twice  a  day,  under  the  inspection  of  proper  officers; 
the  treasure  gained  by  barter,  by  ransom,  or  by  phmder,  was 
deposited  in  a  strong  box  secured  by  two  locks,  one  key  being 
kept  by  the  royal  supervisor,  the  other  by  Ocampo. 

In  the  mean  time  provisions  became  scarce.  The  Indians 
never  appeared  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  fortress,  except  to 
harass  it  with  repeated  though  ineffectual  assaults.  Vergara 
did  not  appear  with  the  expected  supphes  from  Jamaica,  and  a 
caravel  was  despatched  in  search  of  him.  The  people,  worn 
out  with  labour  and  privations  of  various  kinds,  and  dis- 
gusted with  the  situation  of  a  settlement,  which  was  in  a  poor 
and  unhealthy  country,  grew  discontented  and  factious.  They 
began  to  fear  that  they  should  lose  the  means  of  departing,  as 
their  vessels  were  in  danger  of  being  destroyed  by  the  broma 
or  worms.  Ojeda  led  them  forth  repeatedly  upon  foraging 
parties  about  the  adjacent  country,  and  collected  some  pro- 
visions and  booty  in  the  Indian  villages.  The  provisions  he 
deposited  in  the  magazine,  part  of  the  spoils  he  divided  among 
his  followers,  and  the  gold  he  locked  up  in  the  strong  box,  the 
keys  of  which  he  took  possession  of,  to  the  great  displeasure  of 
the  supervisor  and  his  associate  Ocampo.  The  murmurs  of  the 
people  grew  loud  as  their  sufferings  'increased.  They  insinu- 
ated that  Ojeda  had  no  authority  over  this  part  of  the  coast, 
having  passed  the  boundaries  of  his  government,  and  formed 
his  settlement  in  the  country  discovered  by  Bastides.  By  the 
lime  Vergara  arrived  from  Jamaica,  the  factions  of  this  potty 
colony  had  risen  to  an  alarming  height.  Ocampo  had  a  per- 
i3onal  enmity  to  the  governor  ai'ising  probably  from  some  feud 
about  the  strong  box;  being  a  particular  friend  of  Vergara,  he 
held  a  pi-ivate  conference  with  him,  and  laid  a  plan  to  entrap 
the  doughty  Ojeda.  In  pursuance  of  tliis  the  latter  was  in- 
vited on  board  of  the  caravel  of  Vergara  to  see  the  provisions 
he  had  brought  from  Jamaica,  but  no  sooner  was  he  on  board 
than  they  charged  him  with  having  transgressed  the  limits  of 
his  governnaent,  with  having  provoked  the  hostility  of  the 
Indians,  and  needlessly  sacrificed  the  lives  of  his  followers, 
and  above  all,  with  having  taking  possession  of  the  strong  box, 
in  contempt  of  the  authority  of  the  royal  supervisor,  and  with 
the  intention  of  appropriating  to  himself  aU  the  gains  of  the 
enterprise ;  they  informed  him,  therefore,  of  theu'  intention  to 
convey  him  a  prisoner  to  Hispaniola,  to  answer  to  the  Gov- 


SECOND    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  89 

emor  for  his  offences.  Ojeda  finding  himself  thus  entrapped, 
proposed  to  V(;rgara  and  Ocampo  that  they  should  return  to 
Spam  with  such  of  the  crews  as  chose  to  accompany  them, 
leaving  him  with  the  remainder  to  prosecute  his  enterprise. 
The  two  recreant  partners  at  first  consented,  for  they  were 
disgusted  with  the  enterprise,  which  offered  httle  profit  and 
severe  hardships.  They  agreed  to  leave  Ojeda  the  smallest  of 
the  caravels,  ^vith  a  thii'd  of  the  provisions  and  of  their  gains, 
and  to  build  a  row  boat  for  him.  They  actually  began  to 
labour  upon  the  boat.  Before  ten  days  had  elapsed,  however, 
they  repented  of  the  arrangement,  the  ship-carpenters  were 
ill,  there  were  no  caulkers,  and  moreover,  they  recollected  that 
as  Ojeda,  according  to  their  representations,  was  a  defaulter  to 
the  crown,  they  would  be  liable  as  his  sureties,  should  they  re- 
turn to  Spain  without  him.  They  concluded,  therefore,  that 
the  wisest  plan  was  to  give  him  nothing,  but  to  carry  him  off 
prisoner. 

When  Ojeda  learned  the  determination  of  his  wary  partners, 
he  attempted  to  make  his  escape  and  get  off  to  St.  Domingo, 
but  he  was  seized,  thrown  in  irons,  and  conveyed  on  board  of 
the  caravel.  The  two  partners  then  set  sail  from  Santa  Cniz, 
bearing  off  the  whole  commimity,  its  captive  governor,  and  the 
litigated  strong  box. 

They  put  to  sea  about  the  beginning  of  September,  and 
arrived  at  the  western  part  of  the  island  of  Hispaniola.  While 
at  ftnchor  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  land,  Ojeda,  con- 
fiTlent  in  his  strength  and  skill  as  a  swimmer,  let  himself 
qiiietly  slide  down  the  side  of  the  ship  into  the  w\ater  during 
the  night,  and  attempted  to  swim  for  the  shore.  His  arms 
were  free,  but  his  feet  were  shackled,  and  the  weight  of  his 
irons  threatened  to  sink  him.  He  was  obliged  to  shout  for 
help ;  a  boat  was  sent  from  the  vessel  to  his  relief,  and  the  un- 
fortunate governor  was  brought  back  half  drowned  to  his  un- 
relenting partners.* 

The  latter  now  landed  and  delivered  their  prisoner  into  the 
hands  of  Gallcgo,  the  commander  of  the  place,  to  be  put  at  the 
disposal  of  the  governor  of  the  island.  In  the  mean  time  the 
strong  box,  which  appears  to  have  been  at  the  bottom  of  all 
these  feuds,  remained  in  the  possession  of  Vergara  and  Ocam- 
po, who,  Ojeda  says,  took  from  it  whatever  they  thought 
proper,  without  regard  to  the  royal  dues  or  the  consent  of  the 

♦  Hist.  Gcii.  cle  Yiages.  Ilerrera,  Hist.  Ind. 


40  SPAMSII  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

royal  supervisor.  They  were  all  together,  prisoner  and  ac- 
cusers, in  the  city  of  San  Domingo,  about  the  end  of  Septem- 
ber 1502,  Avhen  the  chief  judge  of  the  island,  after  hearing 
both  parties,  gave  a  verdict  against  Ojeda  that  stripped  him 
of  aU  his  effects,  and  brought  him  into  debt  to  the  crown  for 
the  royal  proportion  of  the  profits  of  the  voyage.  Ojeda  ap- 
pealed to  the  sovereign,  and,  after  some  time,  was  honour- 
ably acquitted,  by  the  royal  council,  from  all  the  charges,  and 
a  mandate  was  issued  in  1503,  ordering  a  restitution  of  his 
property.  It  appears,  however,  that  the  costs  of  justice, 
or  rather  of  the  law,  consumed  his  share  of  the  treasure  of 
the  strong  box,  and  that  a  royal  order  was  necessary  to  libe- 
rate him  from  the  hands  of  the  governor;  so  that,  like  too 
many  other  htigants,  he  finally  emerged  from  the  labyrinths 
of  the  law  a  triiimphant  client  but  a  ruined  man. 


THIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  41 


THIRD  VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


OJEDA  APPLIES  FOR    A  COMMAND— HAS    A    RIVAL    CANDIDATE    IN 
DIEGO  DE  NICUESA— HIS  SUCCESS. 

For  several  years  after  his  ruinous,  though  successful  law- 
suit, we  lose  all  traces  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  excepting  that  we 
are  told  he  made  another  voyage  to  the  vicinity  of  Coquibacoa, 
in  1505.  No  record  remains  of  this  expedition,  which  seems  to 
have  been  equally  unprofitable  with  the  preceding,  for  wo  find 
him,  in  1508,  in  the  island  of  Hispaniola,  as  poor  in  purse, 
though  as  proud  in  spirit,  as  ever.  In  fact,  however  fortune 
might  have  favoured  him,  lie  had  a  heedless,  squandering  dis- 
position that  would  always  have  ke]it  him  poor. 

About  this  time  the  cupidity  of  King  Ferdinand  was  greatly 
excited  by  the  accounts  which  had  been  given  by  Columbus,  of 
the  gold  mines  of  Veragua,  in  which  the  admiral  fancied  he 
had  discovered  the  Aiu-ea  Chei-sonesus  of  the  ancients,  from 
whence  King  Solomon  procured  the  gold  used  in  building  the 
temple  of  Jerusalem.  Subsequent  voyagore  had  corroborated 
the  opinion  of  Columbus  as  to  the  general  riches  of  tbe  coast 
of  Terra  Firma;  King  Ferdinand  resolved,  tlierefore,  to  found 
regular  colonies  along  that  coast  and  to  place  the  whole  under 
some  capable  commander.  A  project  of  the  kind  had  been 
conceived  by  Columbus,  when  he  discovered  that  I'ogion  in  the 
course  of  his  last  voyage,  and  the  reader  may  remember  the 
disasters  experienced  by  his  brother  Don  Bartholomew  and 
himself,  in  endeavouring  to  estabUsh  a  colony  on  the  hostile 
shores  of  Vera.gua.  The  admiral  being  dead,  the  ]>erson  who 
should  naturally  have  presented  himself  to  the  mind  of  the 
sovereign  for  this  particular  service  was  Don  BarthoU)mew, 
but  the  Avary  and  selfish  monarch  knew  the  Adelantado  to  be 
as  lofty  in  his  terms  as  his  late  brother,  and  preferred  to  accom- 
plish his  purposes  by  cheaper  agents.     He  was  unwilling,  also, 


42  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

to  increase  the  consequence  of  a  family,  whose  vast,  but  just, 
claims  were  already  a  cause  of  repining  to  his  sordid  and  jeal- 
ous spirit.  He  looked  round,  therefore,  among  the  crowd  of 
adventurers,  who  had  sprung  up  in  the  school  of  Columbus, 
for  some  indi\'idual  who  might  bo  ready  to  serve  him  on  more 
accommodating  terms.  Among  those,  considered  by  their 
friends  as  most  fitted  for  this  purpose,  was  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  for 
his  roving  voyages  and  daring  exploits  had  made  him  famous 
among  the  voyagers ;  and  it  was  thought  that  an  application 
on  his  part  would  be  attended  with  success,  for  he  was  known 
to  possess  a  staunch  friend  at  court  in  the  Bishop  Fonseca. 
Unfortunately  he  was  too  far  distant  to  urge  liis  suit  to  the 
bishop,  and  what  was  worse,  he  was  destitute  of  money.  At 
this  juncture  tliere  happened  to  be  at  Hispaniola  the  veteran 
navigator  and  pilot,  Juan  de  la  Cosa,  who  was  a  kind  of  Nestor 
in  all  nautica.1  affairs.*  The  hardy  Biscayan  had  sailed  with 
Ojeda,  and  had  conceived  a  great  opinion  of  the  courage  and 
talents  of  the  youthfLd  adventurer.  He  had  contrived,  also,  to 
fill  his  purse  in  the  course  of  his  cruising,  and  now,  in  the  gen- 
erous spirit  of  a  sailor,  offered  to  aid  Ojeda.  with  it  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  wishes. 

His  offer  was  gladly  accepted ;  it  was  agreed  that  Juan  de  la 
Cosa  should  depart  for  Spain,  to  promote  the  appointment  of 
Ojeda  to  the  command  of  Terra  Firma,  and,  in  case  of  success, 
should  fit  out,  with  his  own  funds,  the  necessary  armament. 

La  Cosa  departed  on  his  embassy ;  he  called  on  the  Bishop 
Fonseca,  who,  as  had  been  expected,  entered  warmly  into  the 
views  of  his  favourite,  Ojeda,  and  recommended  Mm  to  the 
ambitious  and  bigot  king,  as  a  man  well  fitted  to  promote  his 
empire  in  the  wilderness,  and  to  dispense  the  blessings  of  Chris- 
tianity among  the  savages. 

The  recommendation  of  the  bishop  was  usually  effectual  in 
the  affairs  of  the  New  World,  and  the  opinion  of  the  veteran 
de  la  Cosa  had  great  weight  even  with  the  sovereign ;  but  a 

*  Peter  Martyr  gives  the  following  weighty  testimony  to  the  knowledge  and  skill 
of  this  excellent  seaman: — "  Of  the  Spaniards,  as  many  as  thought  themselves  to 
have  any  knowledge  of  what  pertained  to  measure  the  land  and  sea,  drew  cardes 
(cliarts)  on  parchment  as  concerning  these  navigations.  Of  all  others  they  most 
esteem  them  which  Juan  de  la  Cosa.  the  companion  of  Ojeda,  and  another  pilot, 
called  Andres  Morales,  had  set  forth,  and  this  as  well  for  the  great  experience 
■whieli  both  had,  {io  ivhom  these  tracks  irere  as  well  known  us  the  chambers  of  their 
own  houses,)  as  also  that  they  were  thought  to  be  cunninger  in  that  part  of  cos- 
mography which  teacheth  the  description  and  measuring  of  the  sea."— P.  Martyr, 
Decad.  ii.  c.  10. 


TniED    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  43 

rival  candidate  to  Ojoda  had  presented  himself,  and  one  who 
had  the  advantage  oi  higher  connexif )ns  and  greater  pecuniary 
nicans.  This  was  Diego  dc  Nicuesa,  an  accomplished  courtier 
of  nohle  birtli,  wlio  had  filled  the  post  of  grand  carver  to  Don 
Enrique  Enriqucz,  uncle  of  the  king.  Nature,  education,  and 
habit  seemed  to  have  combini'd  to  form  Nicuesa  as  a  complete 
rival  of  Ojeda.  Like  him  he  was  small  of  stature,  but  remark- 
able for  symmetry  and  compactness  of  form  and  for  bodily 
Btrcngth  and  activity ;  like  hin^  he  was  master  at  all  kinds  of 
weapons,  and  skilled,  not  merely  in  feats  of  agility  but  in  those 
gi-aceful  and  chivah-ous  exercises,  which  the  Spanish  cavaliers 
of  those  days  had  inherited  from  the  Moors ;  being  noted  for 
his  vigour  and  address  in  the  jousts  or  tilting  matches  after  the 
Moresco  fasliion.  Ojeda  himseir  could  not  surpass  him  in  feats 
of  horsemanship,  and  particular  mention  is  made  of  a  favourite 
mare,  a\  hich  he  could  make  caper  and  carricol  in  strict  cadence 
to  the  sound  of  a  viol ;  beside  all  this,  he  was  versed  in  the 
legendary  ballads  or  romnnces  of  his  country,  and  was  renowned 
as  a  capital  perfoi-mcr  on  the  guitar!  Such  were  the  qualifica- 
tions of  this  candidate  for  a  command  in  the  wilderness,  as 
enmnerated  by  the  reverend  Bishop  Las  Casas.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  he  had  given  evidence  of  qualities  more  adapted 
to  the  desired  post ;  having  already  been  out  to  Hispaniola  in 
the  military  tram  of  the  late  Governor  Ovando. 

Where  merits  were  so  singularly  balanced  as  those  of  Ojeda 
and  Nicuesa,  it  might  have  beeii  difficult  to  decide;  King  Ferdi- 
nand avoided  the  dilemma  by  favoiiring  both  of  the  candidates ; 
iiot  indeed  by  furnishing  thom  with  ships  and  money,  but  by 
granting  i)atents  and  dignities  which  cost  nothing,  and  might 
bring  rich  returns. 

Ho  divided  that  part  of  the  continent  which  lies  along  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien  into  two  provinces,  the  boundary  line  run- 
ning through  the  Gulf  of  Uraba.  The  eastern  part,  extending 
to  Cape  de  la  Vela,  was  called  New  Andalusia,  the  government 
of  it  given  to  Ojeda.  The  other,  to  the  west,  including  Veragua, 
and  reaching  to  Cape  Gracias  a  Dies,  was  assigned  to  Nicuesa. 
The  island  of  Jamaica  was  given  to  the  two  governors  in  com- 
mon, as  a  place  from  whence  to  draw  supplies  of  provisions. 
Each  of  the  governors  was  to  erect  two  fortresses  in  his  dis- 
trict, and  to  enjoy  for  ten  years  the  profits  of  all  the  mines  he 
should  discover,  paying  to  the  crown  one-tenth  part  the  first 
year,  one-ninth  the  second,  one-eighth  the  third,  one-seventh 
the  fourth,  and  one-fifth  part  in  each  of  the  remaining  years. 


44  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

Juan  de  la  Cosa,  who  had  been  indefatigable  in  promoting 
the  suit  of  Ojeda,  Avas  appointed  his  lieutenant  in  the  govern- 
ment, with  the  post  of  Alguazil  Mayor  of  the  province.  He 
immediately  freighted  a  ship  and  two  brigantines,  in  which  he 
embarked  -with  about  two  hundred  men.  It  was  a  slender 
armament,  but  the  jiurse  of  the  honest  voyager  was  not  very 
deep,  and  that  of  Ojeda  was  emi)ty.  Nicuesa,  having  ampler 
means,  armed  four  lai'ge  vessels  and  two  brigantines,  furnished 
them  with  abundant  munitions  and  supplies,  both  for  the  voy- 
age and  the  projected  colony,  enlisted  a  much  greater  force, 
and  set  sail  in  gay  and  vaunting  style,  for  the  golden  shores  of 
Veragua,  the  Aurea  Chersoncsus  of  his  imagination. 


CHAPTER  II. 


FEUr  BETAVEEN  THE  RIVAL  GOVERNORS,  OJEDA  AND  NICUESA — 
A  CHALLENGE. — (1509.) 

The  two  rival  armaments  arrived  at  San  Domingo  about  the 
same  time.  Nicuesa  had  experienced  what  was  doubtless  con- 
sidered a  pleasant  little  turn  of  fortune  by  the  way.  Touching 
at  Santa  Cruz,  one  of  the  Carribee  islands,  he  had  succeeded  in 
capturing  a  hundred  of  the  natives,  whom  he  had  borne  off  in 
his  slups  to  be  sold  as  slaves  at  Hispaniola.  This  was  deemed 
justifiable  in  those  days,  even  by  the  most  scrupulous  divines, 
from  the  belief  that  the  Caribs  were  all  anthropophagi,  or 
man-eaters ;  fortunately  the  opinion  of  mankind,  in  this  more 
enlightened  age,  makes  but  little  difference  in  atrocity  between 
the  cannibal  and  the  kidnapper. 

Alonzo  de  Ojeda  welcomed  with  joy  the  ai'rival  of  his  nau- 
tical friend  and  future  lieiitenant  in  the  government,  the 
worthy  Juan  de  la  Cosa ;  still  he  could  not  but  feel  some  mor- 
tification at  the  inferiority  of  his  armament  to  that  of  his  rival 
Nicuesa,  whose  stately  ships  rode  proudly  at  anchor  in  the 
harbour  of  San  Domingo.  He  felt,  too,  that  his  means  were 
inadequate  to  the  establishment  of  his  intended  colony. 
Ojeda,  however,  was  not  long  ao  a  loss  for  pecuniary  assist- 
ance. Like  many  free-spirited  men,  who  are  careless  and 
squandering  of  their  own  purses,  he  had  a  facility  at  com- 
manding the  purses  of  his  neighbours.  Among  the  motley 
population  of  San  Domingo  there  was  a  lawyer  of  some  abih- 


THIRD   VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  BE  OJEBA.  45 

ties,  the  Bachelor  Martin  Fernandez  de  Enciso,  who  had  made 
two  tlioiisand  castillanos  by  his  pleading;*  for  it  woidd  apjiear 
that  the  spirit  of  litigation  was  one  of  the  first  fruits  of  civilized 
life  ti-aiisplanted  to  the  New  World,  and  flourished  sux-prismgly 
among  the  Spanish  colonists. 

Alonzo  de  Ojeda  became  acquainted  with  the  Bachelor,  and 
finding  him  to  be  of  a  restless  and  speculative  character,  soon 
succeeded  in  inspiring  him  with  a  contempt  for  the  dull  but 
secure  and  profitable  routine  of  his  office  in  San  Domingo,  and 
imbuing  him  with  his  own  passion  for  adventure.  Above  all, 
he  dazzled  him  witli  the  offer  to  make  liim  Alcalde  Mayor,  or 
chief  .judge  of  the  provincial  government  he  was  about  to 
establish  in  the  wilderness. 

In  an  evil  hour  the  aspiring  Bachelor  yielded  to  the  tempta- 
tion, and  agreed  to  invest  all  his  money  in  the  enterprise.  It 
was  agreed  that  Ojeda  should  depart  with  the  armament  which 
had  arrived  from  Spain,  while  the  Bachelor  should  remain  at 
Hispaniola  to  beat  up  for  recruits  and  provide  supplies ;  with 
these  he  was  to  embark  in  a  ship  purchased  by  himself,  and 
proceed  to  join  his  high-mottled  friend  at  the  seat  of  his  in- 
tended colony.  Two  rival  governors,  so  well  matched  as 
Ojeda  and  Nicucsa,  and  both  possessed  of  swelling  spirits,  pent 
up  in  small  but  active  bodies,  could  not  remain  long  in  a  little 
place  like  San  Domingo  without  some  collision.  The  island  of 
Jamaica,  which  had  been  assigned  to  them  in  common,  fur- 
nished the  first  ground  of  contention ;  the  province  of  Darien 
furnished  another,  each  pretending  to  include  it  within  the 
limits  ctf  his  jurisdiction.  Their  disputes  on  these  points  ran 
so  high  that  tlie  whole  place  resounded  with  tiiem.  In  talk- 
ing, however,  Nicuesa  had  the  advantage;  having  been 
brought  up  in  the  court,  he  was  more  polished  and  ceremoni- 
ous, had  greater  self-command,  and  probably  perplexed  his 
rival  governor  in  argument.  Ojeda  was  no  great  casuist,  but 
he  was  an  excellent  swordsman,  and  always  ready  to  fight  his 
way  through  any  question  of  right  or  dignity  which  he  could 
not  clearly  argue  with  the  tongue ;  so  he  proposed  to  settle  the 
dispute  by  single  combat.  Nicuesa,  though  equally  brave, 
was  more  a  man  of  the  world,  and  saw  the  folly  of  such  arbit- 
rament. Secretly  smiling  at  the  heat  of  his  antagonist,  he 
proposed,  as  a  preliminary  to  the  duel,  and  to  furnish  some- 
thing worth  fighting  for,  that  each  should  deposit  five  thou- 

*  Equivalent  to  lO.GSO  dollars  of  the  present  day. 


46  SPANISH  VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

sand  castillanos,  to  be  the  prize  of  the  victor.  This,  as  he 
foi-esaw,  was  a,  temporary  check  upon  the  fiery  valour  of  his 
I'ival,  who  did  not  possess  a  pistole  in  his  treasury,  but  prob- 
ably was  too  proud  to  confess  it. 

It  is  not  likely,  however,  that  the  impetuous  spirit  of  Ojeda 
would  long  have  remained  in  check,  had  not  the  discreet  Juan 
de  la  Casa  interposed  to  calm  it.  It  is  interesting  to  notice  the 
great  ascendency  possessed  by  this  veteran  navigator  over  his 
fiery  associate.  Juan  de  la  Cosa  was  a  man  whose  strong 
natural  good  sense  had  been  quickened  by  long  and  hard 
experience;  whose  courage  was  above  all  question,  but  tem- 
pered by  time  and  trial.  He  seems  to  have  been  personally 
attached  to  Ojeda,  as  veterans  who  have  outlived  the  rash  im- 
pulse of  youthful  valour  are  apt  to  love  the  fiery  quality  in 
their  younger  associates.  So  long  as  he  accompanied  Ojeda  in 
his  enterprises,  he  stood  by  him  as  a  Mentor  in  council,  and  a 
devoted  partisan  in  danger. 

In  the  present  instance  the  interference  of  this  veteran  of  the 
seas  had  the  most  salutary  effect ;  he  prevented  the  impending 
duel  of  the  rival  governors,  and  persuaded  them  to  agree  that 
the  river  Darien  should  be  the  boundary  line  between  their 
respective  jurisdictions. 

The  dispute  relative  to  Jamaica  was  settled  by  the  Admiral 
Don  Diego  Columbus  himself.  He  had  already  felt  aggrieved 
by  the  distribution  of  these  governments  by  the  king,  without 
his  consent  or  even  knowdedge,  being  contrary  to  the  privileges 
which  he  inherited  from  his  father,  the  discoverer.  It  was  in 
vain  to  contend,  however,  Avhen  the  matter  was  beyond  his 
reach  and  involved  in  technical  disputes.  But  as  to  the  island 
of  Jamaica,  it  in  a  manner  lay  at  his  own  door,  and  he  could 
not  brook  its  being  made  a  matter  of  gift  to  these  brawling 
governors.  Without  waiting  the  slow  and  uncertain  course  of 
making  remonstrances  to  the  king,  he  took  the  affair,  as  a 
matter  of  plain  light,  into  his  own  hands  and  ordered  a  brave 
officer,  Juan  de  Esquibel,  the  same  who  had  subjugated  the 
province  of  Higuey,  to  take  possession  of  that  island,  with 
seventy  men,  and  to  hold  it  svibject  to  his  command. 

Ojeda  did  not  hear  of  this  arrangement  until  ho  was  on  the 
point  of  embarking  to  make  sa,il.  In  the  heat  of  the  moment 
he  loudly  defied  the  power  of  the  admiral,  and  swore  that  if  he 
e"\'er  found  Juan  de  Escpiibel  on  the  island  of  Jamaica  he  would 
strike  off"  his  head.  The  populace  present  heard  this  menace, 
and  had  too  thorough  an  idea  of  the  fiery  and  daring  character 


TUIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DK  OJ/CDA.  47 

of  Ojoda  to  doubt  that  he  would  carry  it  into  effect.  Notwith- 
standing hif;  bravado,  however,  Juan  de  Esquibel  proceeded 
according  to  his  orders  to  take  possession  of  the  island  of 
Jamaica. 

The  squadron  of  Nicuesa  lingered  for  some  time  after  the 
saihng  of  his  rival.  His  courteous  and  engaq-ing  manners, 
aided  by  the  rumour  of  great  riches  in  the  province  of  Vera- 
gua,  where  ho  intended  to  found  his  colony,  had  draAvn  numer- 
ous volunteers  to  his  standard,  insomuch  that  he  had  to  pur- 
chase another  ship  to  convey  them. 

Nicuesa  was  more  of  the  courtier  and  the  covalicr  than  the 
man  of  business,  and  had  no  skill  in  managing  his  pecuniary 
affairs.  He  had  expended  his  funds  with  a  free  and  lavish 
hand,  and  involved  himself  in  debts  which  he  had  not  the  im- 
mediate means  of  paying.  Many  of  his  creditors  knew  that 
his  expedition  was  regarded  with  an  evil  eye  by  the  Admiral, 
Don  Diego  Columbus;  to  gain  favour  with  the  latter,  therefore, 
they  threw  all  kinds  of  impediments  in  the  way  of  Niciie.-a. 
Nevei"  WPS  an  unfortunate  gentleman  more  harassed  and  dis- 
tracted hj  duns  and  demands,  one  plur'-irg  at  his  skii'ts  as 
soon  as  the  other  was  satisfied.  He  suc(  ceded,  however,  in 
getting  all  his  forces  embarked.  He  had  seven  himdred  men, 
well  chosen  and  well  armed,  together  with  six  horses.  He 
chose  Lope  de  Olano  to  be  his  captain-general,  a  seemingly 
impolitic  appointment,  as  this  Olano  had  been  concerned  ^\ith 
the  notorious  Roldan  in  his  rebellion  against  Colunibus. 

The  squadron  sailed  out  of  the  harbour  and  jiut  to  sea,  ex- 
cepting one  ship,  which,  with  anchor  a-trip  and  sails  imfurled, 
waited  to  receive  Nicuesa,  who  was  detained  on  shore  imtil 
the  last  moment  by  the  perplexities  which  had  been  ai'tfuUy 
multiplied  around  him. 

Just  as  he  was  on  the  point  of  stepping  into  liis  boat  he 
was  arrested  by  the  harpies  of  the  law,  and  carried  beffire  the 
Alcalde  Mayor  to  answer  a  demand  for  five  hundred  ducats, 
which  he  was  ordered  to  pay  on  the  spot,  or  prepare  to  go  to 
prison. 

This  was  a  thunderstroke  to  the  importunate  cavalier.  In 
vain  he  represented  his  utter  incapacity  to  furnish  such  a  siun 
at  the  moment;  in  vain  he  represented  the  ruin  that  would 
accrue  to  himself  and  the  vast  injmyto  the  public  sei'vice, 
should  lie  be  prevented  from  joining  his  expedition.  The  Al- 
calde Mayor  was  inflexible,  and  Nicuesa  was  reduced  to  de- 
spair,    xit  this  critical  moment  relief  came  from  a  most  unex- 


48  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

pected  quarter.  The  heart  of  a  public  notary  was  melted  by 
his  distress !  He  stepped  forward  in  court  and  declared  that 
rather  tlian  see  so  gallant  a  gentleman  i-educed  to  extremity 
he  liiraself  would  pay  down  the  money.  Nicuesa  gazed  at  him 
with  astonishment,  and  could  scarcely  believe  his  senses,  but 
when  he  saw  him  actually  pay  off  the  debt,  and  found  himself 
suddenly  released  from  this  dreadful  embarrassment,  he  em- 
braced his  dehverer  with  tears  of  gratitude,  and  hastened  with 
all  speed  to  embark,  lest  some  other  legal  spell  should  be  laid 
upon  his  person. 


CHAPTER  III. 


EXPLOITS  AND    DISASTERS  OF    OJEDA  ON  THE  COAST  OF  CARTHA- 
GENA— FATE  OF  THE  VETERAN  JUAN  DE  LA  COSA.  — (1509.) 

It  was  on  the  10th  of  November,  1509,  that  Alonzo  de  Ojeda, 
set  sail  from  San  Domingo  with  two  ships,  two  brigantines, 
and  three  hundred  men.  He  took  with  him  also  twelve  brood 
mares.  Among  the  remarkable  adventurers  who  embarked 
with  him  was  Francisco  Pizarro,  who  was  afterwards  re- 
nowned as  the  conqueror  of  Peru.*  Hernando  Cortez  had  like- 
wise intended  to  sail  in  the  expedition,  but  was  prevented  by 
an  inflammation  in  one  of  his  knees. 

The  voyage  was  speedy  and  prosperous,  and  they  arrived  late 
in  the  autumn  in  the  harbour  of  Carthagera.  The  veteran 
Juan  de  la  Cosa  was  well  acquainted  with  this  place,  having 
sailed  as  pilot  with  Eodrigo  de  Bastides,  at  the  time  he  discov- 
ered it  in  1501.  He  warned  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  to  be  upon  his 
guard,  as  the  natives  were  a  brave  and  warlike  race,  of  Carib 

*  Francisco  Pizarro  was  a  native  of  Truxillo  in  Estremadura.  He  was  the  ille- 
gitimate fruit  of  an  amour  between  Gonsalvo  Pizarro,  a  veteran  captain  of  in- 
fantry, and  a  damsel  in  low  life.  His  childhood  was  passed  in  grovelling  occu- 
pations incident  to  the  humble  condition  of  his  mother,  and  he  is  said  to  have 
been  a  swineherd.  When  he  had  sufficiently  increased  in  years  and  stature  he  en- 
listed as  a  soldier.  His  first  campaigns  mny  have  been  against  the  Moors  in  the 
war  of  Granada.  He  certainly  served  in  Italy  under  the  banner  of  the  Great  Cap- 
tain. Gonsalvo  of  Cordova.  His  roving  spirit  then  induced  him  to  join  the  bands 
of  adventurers  to  the  New  World.  He  was  of  ferocious  courage,  and,  when  en- 
gaged in  any  enterprise,  possessed  an  obstinate  perseverance  that  was  neither  to 
be  deterred  by  danger,  weakened  by  fatigue  and  hardship,  or  cheeked  by  repeated 
disappointment.  After  having  conquered  tlie  great  kingdom  of  Peru,  he  was  as- 
sassinated, at  an  advanced  age,  in  1541,  defending  himself  bravely  to  the  last. 


THIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  49 

origin,  far  diffcront  from  tho  soft  and  frcntlo  inhabitants  of  the 
islands.  They  wielded  great  swords  of  pahn-wood,  defended 
themselves  with  osier  targets,  and  dipped  their  arrows  in  the 
subtle  poison.  The  women,  as  well  as  the  men,  mingled  in  bat- 
tle, being  expert  in  drawing  the  bow  and  throwing  a  species  of 
lance  called  the  azagay.  The  warning  was  well  timed,  for  tho 
Indians  of  these  parts  had  been  irritated  by  the  misconduct  of 
previous  adventiu*ers,  and  flew  to  arms  on  the  first  appearance 
of  the  ships. 

Juan  de  la  Cosa  now  feared  for  tho  safety  of  the  enterprise 
in  which  he  had  person,  fortune,  and  official  dignity  at  stake. 
He  earnestly  advised  Ojeda  to  abandon  this  dangerous  neigh- 
bom-hood,  and  to  commence  a  settlement  in  the  guh  of  Uraba, 
where  the  people  were  less  ferocious,  and  did  not  use  poisoned 
weapons.  Ojeda  was  too  proud  of  spirit  to  alter  his  plans 
through  fear  of  a  naked  foe.  It  is  thought,  too,  that  he  had 
no  objection  to  a  skirmish,  being  desirous  of  a  pretext  to  make 
slaves  to  be  sent  to  Hispaniola  in  discharge  of  the  debts  he 
had  left  unpaid.*  He  landed,  therefore,  with  a  considerable 
part  of  his  force,  and  a  number  of  friars,  who  had  been  sent 
out  to  convert  the  Indians.  His  faithful  lieutenant,  being  un- 
able to  keep  him  out  of  danger,  stood  by  to  second  him. 

Ojeda  advanced  towards  the  savages,  and  ordered  the  friars 
to  read  aloud  a  certain  formula  which  had  recently  been  di- 
gested by  profound  jurists  and  divines  in  Spain.  It  began  in 
stately  form.  "I,  Alonzo  do  Ojeda,  servant  of  the  most  high 
and  mighty  sovereigns  of  Castile  and  Leon,  conquerors  of  bar- 
barous nations,  their  messenger  and  captain,  do  notify  unto 
you,  and  make  you  know,  in  the  best  way  I  can,  that  God  our 
Lord,  one  and  eternal,  created  tho  heaven  and  the  earth,  and 
one  man  and  one  woman,  from  whom  you  and  we,  and  all  the 
people  of  the  earth  proceeded,  and  are  descendants,  as  well  as 
those  who  shall  come  hereafter."  Tho  formula  then  went  on 
to  declare  the  fundamental  principles  of  the  Catholic  Faith : 
the  supreme  power  given  to  St.  Peter  over  the  world  and  all 
the  human  race,  and  exercised  by  his  representative  the  pope ; 
the  donation  made  by  a  late  pope  of  all  this  part  of  the  world 
and  all  its  inhabitants,  to  the  Catholic  sovereigns  of  Castile; 
and  the  ready  obedience  which  had  already  been  paid  by  many 
of  its  lands  and  islands  and  people  to  the  agents  and  represent- 
atives of  those  sovereigns.     It  called  upon  those  savages  pres- 

♦Las  Casas.    Hist.  Ind.  1.  ii.  c.  57,  MS 


no  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  nrSCOVERY. 

ent,  therefore,  to  do  the  same,  to  acknowledge  the  truth  of  the 
Christian  doctrines,  the  supremacy  of  the  pope,  and  the  sov- 
ereignty of  the  Cathohc  King,  but,  in  case  of  refusal,  it  de- 
nounced upon  them  all  the  horrors  of  war,  the  desolation  of 
their  dwellings,  the  seizure  of  their  property,  and  the  slavery 
of  their  wives  and  children.  Such  was  the  extraordmary  doc- 
ument,  which,  from  this  time  forward,  was  read  by  the  Span- 
ish discoverers  to  tlie  wondering:  savages  of  any  newly-found 
country,  as  a  prelude  to  sanctify  the  violence  about  to  be  in- 
flicted on  them.* 

When  the  friars  had  read  this  pious  manifesto,  Ojeda  made 
signs  of  amity  to  the  natives,  and  held  up  glittering  presents ; 
they  had  already  suffered,  however,  from  the  cruelties  of  the 
white  men,  and  were  not  to  be  won  by  kindness.  On  the  con- 
trary, they  brandished  their  weapons,  sounded  their  conchs, 
and  prepared  to  make  battle. 

Juan  de  la  Cosa  saw  the  rising  choler  of  Ojeda,  and  knew  his 
fiery  impatience.  He  again  entreated  him  to  abandon  these 
hostile  shores,  and  reminded  him  of  the  venomous  weapons  of 
the  enemy.  It  was  all  in  vain:  Ojeda  confided  blindly  in  the 
protection  of  the  Virgin.  Putting  up,  as  usual,  a  short  prayer 
to  his  patroness,  he  drew  his  weapon,  braced  his  buckler,  and 
charged  furiously  upon  the  savages.  Juan  de  la  Cosa  followed 
as  heartily  as  if  the  battle  had  been  of  his  own  seeking.  The 
Indians  were  soon  routed,  a  number  killed,  and  several  taken 
prisoners;  on  their  persons  were  found  plates  of  gold,  but  of  an 
inferior  quality.  Flushed  by  this  triumph,  Ojeda  took  several 
of  the  prisoners  as  guides,  and  pursued  the  flying  enemy  four 
leagues  into  the  interior.  He  was  followed,  as  usual,  by  his 
faithful  heutenant,  the  veteran  La  Cosa,  continually  remon- 
strating against  his  useless  temerity,  but  hardily  seconding 
him  in  the  most  hare-brained  perils.  Plaving  penetrated  far 
into  the  forest,  they  came  to  a  strong-hold  of  the  enemy,  where 
a  numerous  force  was  ready  to  receive  them,  armed  with  clubs, 
lances,  arrows,  and  bucklers.  Ojeda  led  his  men  to  the  charge 
with  the  old  Castihan  war  cry,  "Santiago !"  The  savages  soon 
took  to  flight.  Eight  of  their  bravest  warriors  threw  them- 
selves into  a  cabin,  and  plied  their  bows  and  arrows  so  vigor- 
ously, that  the  Spaniards  were  kept  at  bay.  Ojeda  cried  shame 
upon  his  followers  to  be  daunted  by  eight  naked  men.     Stung 


*  The  readtir  will  flud  the  complete  form  of  this  curious  manifesto  in  the  ap- 
peodLs. 


THIIW    VOYAGE  OF  ALO.NZO  DE  OJEBA.  51 

by  this  reproach,  an  old  Castilian  soldier  rushed  through  a 
shower  of  arrows,  and  forced  the  door  of  the  cabin,  but  re- 
ceived 0.  shaft  through  the  heart,  and  fell  dead  on  the  thresli- 
old.  Ojeda,  furious  at  the  sight,  ordered  fire  to  be  set  to  the 
combustible  edifice ;  in  a  moment  it  was  in  a  blaze,  and  the 
eight  warriors  perished  in  the  flames. 

Seventy  Indians  Avere  made  captive  and  sent  to  the  ships, 
and  Ojeda,  regardless  of  the  remonstrances  of  Juan  de  la  Cosa, 
continued  his  rash  jjui-suit  of  the  fugitives  through  the  f()rest. 
In  the  dusk  of  the  evening  they  arrived  at  a  village  called 
Yurbaco ;  the  inhabitants  of  which  had  fled  to  the  mountains 
with  their  vaves  and  children  and  principal  effects.  The  Span- 
iards, imagining  that  the  Indians  were  completely  terrified  and 
dispersed,  now  roved  in  quest  of  booty  among  the  deserted 
houses,  wliich  stood  distant  from  each  other,  buried  among  the 
trees.  While  they  were  thus  scattered,  troops  of  savages 
mshed  forth,  with  furious  yells,  from  all  parts  of  the  forest. 
The  Spaniards  endeavoured  to  gather  together  and  support 
each  other,  but  every  little  party  was  surrounded  by  a  host  of 
foes.  They  fought  with  desperate  bravery,  but  for  once  their 
valour  and  their  iron  armour  were  of  no  avail ;  they  were  over- 
whelmed by  numbers,  and  sank  beneath  war-clubs  and  poi- 
soned arrows. 

Ojeda  on  the  first  alarm  collected  a  few  soldiers  and  en- 
sconced himself  within  a  small  enclosure,  surrounded  by  pali- 
sades. Here  he  was  closely  besieged  and  galled  by  flights  of 
arrows.  He  threw  himself  on  his  knees,  covered  himself  with 
his  buckler,  and,  being  small  and  active,  managed  to  protect 
himself  from  the  deadly  shower,  but  all  his  companions  were 
slain  by  his  side,  some  of  them  perishing  in  frightful  agonies. 
At  this  fcarfid  moment  the  veteran  La  Cosa,  having  heard  of 
the  peril  of  his  commander,  arrived,  with  a  few^  followers,  to 
his  assistance.  Stationing  himself  at  the  gate  of  the  palisades, 
the  brave  Biscayan  kept  the  savages  at  bay  until  most  of  his 
men  were  slain  and  he  himself  was  severely  wounded.  Just 
then  Ojeda  sprang  forth  hke  a  tiger  into  the  midst  of  the 
enemy,  dealing  his  blows  on  every  side.  La  Cosa  would  have 
seconded  him,  but  Avas  crippled  by  his  Avounds.  He  took  refuge 
Avith  the  remnant  of  his  men  in  an  Indian  cabin ;  the  straAA^  roof 
of  which  he  aided  them  to  throw  off,  lest  the  enemy  should  set 
it  on  fire.  Here  he  defended  himself  until  all  his  comrades, 
but  one,  Avero  destroyed.  The  subtle  poison  of  his  Avounds  at 
length  overpoAvcrcd  him,  and  he  sank  to  the  ground.     Feeling 


52  SPANLSn   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 

death  at  hand,  ho  called  to  his  only  sui-vivinp:  companion. 
''Brother,  "said  he,  "since  God  hath  protected  thee  from  harm, 
sally  forth  and  fly,  and  if  ever  thou  shouldst  see  Alonzo  de 
Ojeda,  teU  him  of  my  fate !" 

Tlius  fell  the  hardy  Juan  de  la  Cosa,  faithful  and  devoted  to 
the  very  last ;  nor  can  we  refrain  from  pausing  to  pay  a  pass- 
ing trihute  to  his  memory.  He  was  acknowledged  by  his  con- 
temporaries to  be  one  of  the  ablest  of  those  gallant  Spanish 
navigators  who  first  explored  the  way  to  the  New  World.  But 
it  is  by  the  honest  and  kindly  qualities  of  his  heart  that  his 
memory  is  most  endeared  to  us ;  it  is,  above  all,  by  that  loyalty 
in  friendsliip  displayed  in  this  his  last  and  fatal  expedition. 
Warmed  by  his  attachment  for  a  more  youthful  and  a  hot- 
headed adventurer,  we  see  this  wary  veteran  of  the  seas  for- 
getting his  usual  prudence  and  the  lessons  of  his  experience, 
and  embarking,  heart  and  hand,  purse  and  person,  in  the  wild 
enterprises  of  his  favourite.  We  behold  him  watching  over 
him  as  a  parent,  remonstrating  with  him  as  a  counsellor,  but 
fighting  by  him  as  a  partisan ;  following  Mm,  without  hesita- 
tion, into  known  and  needless  danger,  to  certain  death  itself, 
and  showing  no  other  solicitude  in  his  dying  moments  but  to 
be  remembered  by  his  friend. 

The  histories  of  these  Spanish  discoveries  abound  in  noble 
and  generous  traits  of  character,  but  few  have  charmed  us 
more  than  this  instance  of  loyalty  to  the  last  gasp,  in  the 
death  of  the  staunch  Juan  de  la  Cosa.  The  Spaniard  who  es- 
caped to  tell  the  story  of  his  end  was  the  only  survivor  of 
seventy  that  had  followed  Ojeda  in  this  rash  and  headlong 
inroad. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

ARRIVAL  OF  NICUESA— VENGEANCE  VAKEN  ON  THE  INDIANS. 

While  these  disastrous  occurrences  happened  on  shore, 
great  alarm  began  to  be  felt  on  board  of  the  ships.  Days  had 
elapsed  since  the  party  had  adventured  so  rashly  into  the  wil- 
derness ;  yet  nothing  had  been  seen  or  heard  of  them,  and  the 
forest  spread  a  mystery  over  their  fate.  Some  of  the  Spaniards 
ventured  a  httle  distance  into  the  woods,  but  were  deterred  by 
the  distant  shouts  and  yells  of  the  savages,  and  the  noise  of 


TniRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  53 

their  conclis  and  drums.  Armed  detachments  then  coasted 
the  shore  in  boats,  landing  occasionally,  cHmbing  the  rocks  and 
promontories,  firing  signal-gims,  and  sounding  tnmipets.  It 
was  all  in  vain ;  they  heard  nothing  but  the  echoes  of  their 
own  noises,  or  perhaps  the  wild  whoop  of  an  Indian  fi-om  the 
bosom  of  the  forest.  At  length,  when  they  were  about  to  give 
up  the  search  in  despair,  they  came  to  a  great  thicket  of  man- 
gi-ove  trees  on  the  margin  of  the  sea.  These  trees  grow  within 
the  water,  but  their  roots  rise,  and  are  intertwined,  above  the 
surface.  In  this  entangled  and  almost  impervious  grove,  they 
caught  a  glimpse  of  a  man  in  Spanish  attire.  They  entered, 
and,  to  their  astonishment,  found  it  to  be  Alonzo  de  Ojeda. 
He  was  lying  on  the  matted  roots  of  the  mangroves,  his  buck- 
ler on  his  shoulder,  and  his  sword  in  his  hand ;  but  so  wasted 
with  hunger  and  fatigue  that  he  could  not  speak.  They  bore 
him  to  the  fii'm  land ;  made  a  fire  on  the  shore  to  warm  him, 
for  he  was  chilled  with  the  damp  and  cold  of  his  hiding-place, 
and  when  he  was  a  little  revived  they  gave  liim  food  and  wine. 
In  this  way  he  gradually  recovered  strength  to  tell  Ms  doleful 
story.* 

He  had  succeeded  in  cutting  his  way  through  the  host  of 
savages,  and  attaining  the  woody  skirts  of  the  mountains ;  but 
wlicn  he  found  hmisclf  alone,  and  that  all  his  brave  men  had 
been  cut  off,  he  was  ready  to  yield  up  in  despair.  Bitterly  did 
he  reproach  himself  for  having  disregarded  the  advice  of  the 
veteran  La  Cosa,  and  deeply  did  he  deplore  the  loss  of  that 
loyal  follower,  who  had  fallen  a  victim  to  his  devotion.  He 
scarce  knew  which  way  to  bend  his  course,  but  continued  on, 
in  the  darkness  of  the  night  and  of  the  forest,  until  out  of  hear- 
ing of  the  yells  of  triumph  uttered  by  the  savages  over  the 
bodies  of  his  men.  When  the  day  broke,  he  sought  the  rudest 
parts  of  the  mountains,  and  hid  himself  until  the  night ;  then 
struggling  forward  among  rocks,  and  precipices,  and  matted 
forests,  he  made  his  way  to  the  sea-side,  but  was  too  much  ex- 
hausted to  reach  the  ships.    Indeed  it  was  wonderful  that  one 

♦  The  picttKe  here  piven  is  so  miifh  hke  romance,  that  the  author  quotes  his 
authority  at  length :  — "  Lleparon  adonde  havia.  junto  al  apua  dc  la  mar.  unos  Man- 
glares,  que  son  arboles,  que  sienipre  nacen.  i  orecen  i  permanecen  dontro  del  apua 
de  la  mar,  con  prandes  raices.  asidas.  i  enmarafiadas  unas  con  ofras,  i  alii  metido, 
i  escondido  hallaroii  fi.  Alonzo  de  Ojeda.  con  su  espada  en  la  mano.  i  la  rodela  en 
las  espaldas.  i  en  ella  sobre  trecientas  sefiales  de  flech.izos.  Estabo  descaido  de 
hambre,  que  no  podia  hechar  de  si  la  habla;  i  si  no  fuera  tan  robusto,  auuque  chico 
de  cuerpo,  fuera  muerto." 

Las  Casas.  1.  ii.  c.  68.    MS.  Herrara,  Hist.  Ind.  D.  i.  1.  vii.  c.  xv. 


54  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

so  small  of  frame  should  have  been  able  to  endiire  such  grea± 
hardships;  but  he  was  of  admirable  strength  and  hardihood. 
His  followers  considered  his  escape  from  death  as  little  loss 
than  miraculous,  and  he  hims'^lf  regarded  it  as  another  proof 
of  the  special  protection  of  the  Virgin ;  for,  though  he  had,  as 
usual,  received  no  wound,  yet  it  is  said  his  buckler  bore  the 
dints  of  upwards  of  three  hundred  arrows.* 

While  the  Spaniards  were  yet  on  the  shore,  administering 
to  the  recovery  of  their  commander,  thev  beheld  a  squadron 
of  ships  standing  towards  the  harbour  of  Carthagena,  and 
soon  perceived  them  to  be  the  ships  of  Nicuesa.  Ojeda  was 
troubled  in  mind  at  the  sight,  recollecting  his  late  intem- 
perate defiance  of  that  cavalier;  and,  reflecting  that,  should 
he  seek  him  in  enmity,  he  was  in  no  situation  to  main- 
tain his  challenge  or  defend  himself.  He  ordered  his  men, 
therefore,  to  return  on  board  the  ships  and  leave  him  alone  on 
the  shore,  and  not  to  reveal  the  place  of  his  retreat  while 
Nicuesa  should  remain  in  the  harbour. 

As  the  squadron  entered  the  harboiu*,  the  boats  sallied  forth 
to  meet  it.  The  first  inquiry  of  Nicuesa  was  concerning  Ojeda. 
The  followers  of  the  latter  replied,  mournfully,  that  their  com- 
mander had  gone  on  a  warlike  expedition  into  the  country, 
but  days  had  elapsed  without  his  return,  so  that  they  feared 
some  misfortune  had  befallen  him.  They  entreated  Nicuesa, 
therefore,  to  give  his  word,  as  a  cavalier,  that  should  Ojeda 
really  be  in  distress,  he  would  not  take  advantage  of  his  mis- 
fortunes to  revenge  himself  for  their  late  disputes. 

Nicuesa,  who  was  a  gentlema,n  of  noble  and  generous  spirit, 
blushed  with  indignation  at  such  a  request.  "  Seek  your  com- 
mander instantly,"  said  he;  "bring  him  to  me  if  he  be  alive; 
and  I  pledge  myself  not  merely  to  forget  the  past,  but  to  aid 
him  as  if  he  were  a  brother,  f 

Wlien  they  met,  Nicuesa  received  his  late  foe  with  open 
arms.  "It  is  not,"  said  he,  "for  Hidalgos,  like  men  of  vulgar 
souls,  to  remember  past  differences  when  they  behold  one  an- 
other in  distress.  Henceforth,  let  aU  that  has  occurred  be- 
tween us  be  forgotten.  Command  me  as  a  brother.  Myself 
and  my  men  are  at  your  orders,  to  foUow  you  wherever  you 
please,  until  the  deaths  of  Juan  de  la  Cosa  and  his  comrades 
are  revenged." 

The  spirits  of  Ojeda  were  once  more  lifted  up  by  this  gallant 

+  Las  Ca.sas,  ubi  sup.  +  Ibid. 


THIRD    VOYAGL:   of  ALOyZO  JJJ'J   OJEDA.  ^j^ 

and  generous  offer.  The  two  governors,  no  longer  rivals, 
landed  four  hundred  of  tlieir  men  and  several  horses,  and  set 
off  with  all  speed  for  the  fatal  village.  They  approached  it 
in  the  night,  and,  dividing  their  forces  into  two  parties,  gave 
orders  that  not  an  Indian  should  be  taken  aUve. 

The  village  was  bui-ied  in  deep  sleep,  but  the  woods  were 
filled  with  large  parrots,  wliich,  being  awakened,  naadc  a  pro- 
digious clamour.  The  Indians,  however,  thinking  the  Span-, 
iards  all  destroyed,  paid  no  attention  to  these  noises.  It  was 
hot  until  their  houses  were  assailed,  and  wrapped  in  flames, 
that  they  took  the  alarm.  They  rushed  forth,  some  with  arms, 
some  weaponless,  but  were  received  at  their  doors  by  the  exas- 
perated Spaniards,  and  either  slain  on  the  spot,  or  driven  back 
hito  the  fire.  Women  fled  wildly  forth  with  children  in  their 
arms,  but  at  sight  of  the  Spaniards  glittering  in  steel,  and  of 
the  horses,  which  they  supposed  ravenous  monsters,  they  ran 
back,  shrieking  with  horror,  into  their  burning  habitations. 
Gi'eat  was  the  cai-nage,  for  no  quarter  was  slitfwn  to  age  or  sex. 
Many  perished  by  the  fire,  and  many  by  the  sword. 

When  they  had  fully  glutted  their  vengeance,  the  Spaniards 
ranged  about  for  booty.  While  thus  employed,  they  found  the 
body  of  the  unfortunate  Juan  de  la  Cosa.  It  was  tied  to  a  tree, 
but  swoln  and  discoloured  in  a  hideous  manner  by  the  poison 
of  the  arrows  ^vith  which  he  had  been  slain.  This  dismal 
spectacle  had  such  an  effect  upon  the  common  men,  that  not 
one  would  remain  in  that  place  during  the  night.  Having 
sacked  the  village,  therefore,  they  left  it  a  smoking  ruin,  and 
returned  in  triumph  to  their  ships.  The  spoil  in  gold  and  other 
articles  of  value  must  have  been  great,  for  the  share  of  Nicuesa 
and  his  men  amounted  to  the  value  of  seven  thousand  castU- 
lanos.*  The  two  governors,  now  faithful  confederates,  parted 
with  many  expressions  of  friendship,  and  with  mutual  admira- 
tion of  each  other's  prowess,  and  Nicuesa  continued  his  voyage 
for  the  coast  of  Veragua. 

*  Equivalent  to  37,281  dollars  of  the  present  day. 


66  m'Amsu  votagi^s  of  discovert. 


CHAPTER  V. 

OJEDA  FOUNDS  THE  COLONY  OF  SAN  SEBASTIAN — BELEAGUERED 
BY  THE  INDIANS. 

Ojeda  now  adopted,  though  tardily,  the  advice  of  his  un- 
fortunate heutenant,  Juan  de  la  Cosa,  and,  giving  up  all 
thoughts  of  colonising  this  disastrous  part  of  the  coast,  steered 
his  course  for  the  Gulf  of  Uraba.  He  sought  for  some  time  the 
river  Darien,  famed  among  the  Indians  as  abounding  in  gold, 
but  not  finding  it,  landed  in  various  places,  seeking  a  favour- 
able site  for  his  intended  colony.  His  people  were  disheart- 
ened by  the  disasters  they  had  already  undergone,  and  the 
appearance  of  surrounding  objects  was  not  calculated  to  reas- 
sure them.  The  country,  though  fertile  and  covered  with  rich 
and  beautiful  vegetation,  was  in  their  eyes  a  land  of  cannibals 
and  monsters.  They  began  to  dread  the  strength  as  well  as 
fierceness  of  the  savages,  who  could  transfix  a  man  with  their 
arrows  even  when  covered  with  armour,  and  whose  shafts 
were  tipped  with  deadly  poison.  They  heard  the  bowlings  of 
tigers,  panthers,  and,  as  they  thought,  lions  in  the  forests,  and 
encountered  large  and  venomous  serpents  among  the  rocks  and 
thickets.  As  they  were  passing  along  the  banks  of  a  river, 
one  of  their  horses  was  seized  by  the  leg  by  an  enormous 
alligator,  and  dragged  beneath  the  waves.* 

At  length  Ojeda  fixed  upon  a  place  for  his  town  on  a  height 
at  the  east  side  of  the  Gulf.  Here,  landing  all  that  could  be 
spared  from  the  ships,  he  began  with  all  diligence  to  erect 
houses,  giving  this  embryo  capital  of  his  province  the  name  of 
San  Sebastian,  in  honour  of  that  sainted  martyr,  who  was  slain 
by  arrows ;  hoping  he  might  protect  the  inhabitants  from  the 
empoisoned  shafts  of  the  savages.  As  a  further  protection  he 
erected  a  large  wooden  fortress,  and  surroimded  the  place  with 
a  stockade.  Feeling,  however,  the  inadequacy  of  his  handful 
of  men  to  contend  with  the  hostile  tribes  around  him,  he  de- 
spatched a  ship  to  Hispaniola,  with  a  letter  to  the  Bachelor, 
Martin  Fernandez  de  Enciso,  his  Alcalde  Mayor,  informing  him 
of  his  having  established  his  seat  of  government,  and  urging 
him  to  lose  no  time  in  joining  him  with  all  the  recruits,  arms, 

*  Herrera,  Hist.  Ind,  D.  i.  1.  vii.  c.  xvi. 


THIRD    VOYAGE   OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  57 

and  provisions  he  could  command.  By  the  same  ship  he  trans- 
mitted to  San  Domingo  all  the  captives  and  gold  he  had  col- 
lected. 

His  capital  being  placed  in  a  posture  of  defence,  Ojeda  now 
thought  of  making  a  jirogress  through  his  wild  territory,  and 
set  out,  accordingly,  with  an  armed  band,  to  pay  a  friendly 
visit  to  a  neighbouring  cacique,  reputed  as  possessing  great 
treasures  of  gold.  The  natives,  however,  had  hy  this  time 
learnt  the  nature  of  these  friendly  visits,  and  were  pre^jared  to 
resist  them.  Scarcely  had  the  Spaniards  entered  into  the  de- 
files of  the  Rurroimding  forest  when  they  were  assaUed  by 
flights  of  arrows  from  the  close  coverts  of  the  thickets.  Some 
were  shot  dead  on  the  spot;  others,  less  fortunate,  expired 
raving  with  the  torments  of  the  poison ;  the  survivors,  filled 
with  horror  at  the  sight,  and  losing  all  presence  of  mind,  re- 
treated in  confusion  to  the  fortress. 

It  was  some  time  before  Ojeda  could  again  persuade  his  men 
to  take  the  field,  so  gi'eat  was  theii*  dread  of  the  poisoned 
weapons  of  the  Indians.  At  length  their  provisions  began  to 
fail,  and  they  were  compelled  to  forage  among  the  villages  in 
search,  not  of  gold,  but  of  food. 

In  one  of  their  expeditions  they  were  surprised  by  an  am- 
buscade of  savages  in  a  gorge  of  the  moimtains,  and  attacked 
with  such  fury  and  effect,  that  they  were  completely  routed 
and  pursued  with  yells  and  howhngs  to  the  very  gates  of  St. 
Sebastian.  Many  died  in  excruciating  agony  of  their  wounds, 
and  others  recovered  with  extreme  difficulty.  Those  who  w^re 
well  no  longer  dared  to  venture  forth  in  search  of  food ;  for  the 
whole  forest  teemed  with  lurking  foes.  They  devoured  such 
herbs  and  roots  as  they  could  find  without  regard  to  their 
quality.  The  humors  of  their  bodies  became  corrupted,  and 
various  diseases,  combined  with  the  ravages  of  famine,  daily 
thinned  their  numbers.  The  sentinel  who  feebly  mounted 
guard  at  night  was  often  found  dead  at  his  post  in  the  morn- 
ing. Some  stretched  themselves  on  the  ground  and  expired  of 
m'^i-e  famine  and  debility ;  nor  was  death  any  longer  regarded 
as  ?.n  evil,  but  rather  as  a  welcome  relief  from  a  life  of  horror 
and  despair. 


58  i^FANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ALONZO    DE     OJEDA    SUPPOSED     BY     THE     SAVAGES    TO    HAVE    A 
CHARMED   LIFE— THEIR  EXPERIMENT  TO  TRY  THE  FACT. 

In  tho  mean  time  the  Indians  continued  to  harass  the  garri- 
son, lying  in  wait  to  surprise  the  foraging  parties,  cutting  oif 
all  stragglers,  and  sometimes  approaching  the  walls  in  open 
dcliance.  On  such  occasions  Ojeda  sallied  forth  at  the  head  of 
his  men,  and,  from  his  great  agility,  was  the  first  to  overtake 
the  retreating  foe.  He  slew  more  of  their  warriors  with  his  single 
arm  than  aU  his  followers  together.  Though  often  exposed  to 
showers  of  arrows,  none  had  ever  wounded  him,  and  the  In- 
dians began  to  think  he  had  a  charmed  life.  Perhai^s  they  had 
heard  from  fugitive  prisoners  the  idea  entertained  by  him- 
self and  his  followers  of  his  being  under  supernatural  protec- 
tion. Determined  to  ascertain  the  fact,  they  placed  four  of 
theu'  naost  dexterous  archers  in  ambush  with  orders  to  single 
him  out.  A  number  of  them  advanced  towards  the  fort 
sounding  their  conchs  and  drums  and  uttering  yells  of  defiance. 
As  they  expected,  the  impetuous  Ojeda  sallied  forth  immedi- 
ately at  the  head  of  his  men.  The  Indians  fled  towards  the  am- 
buscade, drawing  him  in  furious  pursuit.  The  archers  waited 
until  he  was  full  in  front,  and  then  launched  their  deadly 
shafts.  Three  struck  Ms  buckler  and  glanced  harmlessly  off, 
but  the  fourth  pierced  his  thigh.  Satisfied  that  he  was 
wounded  beyond  the  possibility  of  cure,  the  savages  retreated 
with  shouts  of  triumph. 

Ojeda  was  borne  back  to  the  fortress  in  great  anguish  of 
body  and  despondency  of  spirit.  For  the  first  time  in  his  life 
he  had  lost  blood  in  battle.  The  charm  in  which  he  had  liith- 
erto  confided  was  broken ;  or  rather,  the  Holy  Virgin  appeared 
to  have  withdrawn  her  protection.  He  had  the  horrible  death 
of  liis  followers  before  his  eyes,  who  had  perished  of  their 
wounds  in  raving  frenzy. 

One  of  the  symptoms  of  the  poison  was  to  shoot  a  thrilling 
chill  through  the  wounded  part ;  from  this  cii'cumstance,  per- 
haps, a  remedy  suggested  itself  to  the  imagination  of  Ojeda, 
which  few  but  himself  could  have  had  the  courage  to  undergo. 
He  caused  two  plates  of  iron  to  be  made  red  hot,  and  ordered  a 
surgeon  to  aj^ply  them  to  each  orifice  of  the  wound.  The  sur^ 
geon  shuddered  and  refused,  saying  he  would  not  be  the  mur- 


THIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  59 

derer  of  his  general.*  Upon  this  Ojeda  made  a  solemn  vow 
that  he  would  hang  him  unless  he  obeyed.  To  avoid  the  gal- 
lows, the  surgeon  apphed  the  glowing  plates.  Ojeda  refused 
to  be  tied  down,  or  that  any  one  should  hold  liim  dm-ing  this 
frightful  operation.  He  endured  it  without  shrinking  or 
uttering  a  murmur,  although  it  so  inflamed  his  whole  system, 
that  they  had  to  wrap  liiin  in  sheets  steeped  in  vinegar  to  allay 
the  burning  heat  which  roged  throughout  his  body ;  and  we 
are  assured  that  a  barrel  uf  vinegar  was  exhausted  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  desperate  remedy  succeeded :  the  cold  poison,  says 
Bishop  Las  Casas,  was  consumed  by  the  vivid  fire.f  How  far 
the  venerable  historian  is  correct  in  his  postulate,  surgeons 
may  decide;  but  many  incredulous  persons  Avill  be  apt  to 
account  for  the  cure  by  surmising  that  the  arrow  was  not  en- 
venomed. 


CHiiPTER  Vn. 

ARRIVAL  OF  A  STRANGE  SHIP  AT  SAN  SEBASTIAN. 

Aloxzo  DE  Ojeda,  though  pronounced  out  of  danger,  was 
still  disabled  by  his  wound,  and  his  helpless  situation  com- 
pleted the  despair  of  his  companions;  for,  while  he  was  in 
health  and  vigour,  liis  buoj-ant  and  mercurial  spirit,  his  active, 
restless,  and  enterprising  habits,  imparted  animation,  if  not 
confidence,  to  every  one  around  him.  The  onlj'  hope  of  relief 
was  from  the  sea,  and  that  was  nearly  extinct,  when,  one  day, 
to  the  imspeakable  joy  of  the  Spaniards,  a  sail  appeared  on  the 
horizon.  It  made  for  the  port  and  droj^ped  anchor  at  the  foot 
of  the  height  of  San  Sebastian,  and  there  was  no  longer  a  doubt 
that  it  was  the  promised  succour  from  San  Domingo. 

The  ship  came  indeed  from  the  island  of  Hispaniola,  but  it 
had  not  been  fitted  out  by  the  Bachelor  Enciso.  The  com- 
mander's name  was  Bernardino  de  Talavera.  Tliis  man  was 
one  of  the  loose,  heedless  adventurers  who  abounded  in  San 
Domingo.  His  carelessness  and  extravagance  had  involved 
him  in  debt,  and  he  was  threatened  with  a  prison.  In  the 
height  of  his  difficulties  the  sliip  arrived  which  Ojeda  had 

*  Charlevoix,  ut  sup,,  p.  293. 

tLas  Cascis,  Hist.  Ind.  lib.  ii.  c.  59,  MS. 


60  SPA^''ISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

sent  to  San  Domingo,  freighted  with  slaves  and  gold,  an 
earnest  of  the  riches  to  be  found  at  San  Sebastian.  Bernar- 
dino de  Talavera  mimodiately  conceived  the  project  of  giving 
his  creditors  the  slip  and  escaping  to  this  new  settlement.  He 
understood  that  Ojeda  was  in  need  of  recruits,  and  felt  as 
sui'cd  that,  from  his  own  recldess  conduct  in  money-matters, 
he  would  sympathize  with  any  one  harassed  by  debt.  He 
drew  into  his  schemes  a  number  of  desperate  debtors  hke 
himself,  nor  was  he  scrupulous  about  filling  his  ranks  with 
recruits  whose  legal  embarrassments  arose  from  more  criminal 
causes.  Never  did  a  more  vagabond  crew  engage  in  a  project 
of  colonization. 

How  to  provide  themselves  with  a  vessel  was  now  the  ques- 
tion. They  had  neither  money  nor  credit ;  but  then  they  had 
cunning  and  courage,  and  were  troubled  by  no  sciiiples  of  con- 
science; thus  qualified,  a  knave  will  often  succeed  better  for  a 
time  than  an  honest  man ;  it  is  in  the  long  run  that  he  fails,  as 
will  be  illustrated  in  the  case  of  Talavera  and  his  hopeful  asso- 
ciates. WhUe  casting  about  for  means  to  escape  to  San  Sebas- 
tian they  heard  of  a  vessel  belonging,  to  certain  Genoese,  which 
was  at  Cape  Tiburon,  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  island, 
taldng  in  a  cargo  of  bacon  and  casava  bread  for  San  Domingo. 
Nothing  could  have  happened  more  opportunely :  here  was  a 
ship  amply  stored  with  provisions,  and  ready  to  their  hand ; 
they  had  nothing  to  do  but  seize  it  and  embark. 

The  gang,  accordingly,  seventy  in  number,  made  their  way 
separately  and  secretly  to  Cape  Tiburon,  where,  assembhng  at 
an  appointed  time  and  place,  they  boarded  the  vessel,  over- 
powered the  crew,  weighed  anchor,  and  set  sail.  They  were 
heedless,  hap-hazard  mariners,  and  knew  little  of  the  manage- 
ment of  a  vessel ;  the  historian  Charlevoix  thinks,  therefore, 
that  it  was  a  special  providence  that  guided  them  to  San  Sebas- 
tian, Whether  or  not  the  good  father  is  right  in  his  opinion, 
it  is  certain  that  the  arrival  of  the  ship  rescued  the  garrison 
from  the  very  brink  of  destruction.* 

Talavera  and  his  gang,  though  they  had  come  hghtly  by 
their  prize,  were  not  disposed  to  part  ^vith  it  as  frankly,  but 
demanded  to  be  paid  down  in  gold  for  the  provisions  furnished 
to  the  starving  colonists.  Ojeda  agi'eed  to  their  terms,  and 
taking  the  supplies  into  his  possession,  dealt  them  out  spar- 
ingly to  his  companions.    Several  of  his  hungry  followers  were 

*  Hist.  S.  Domingo,  lib.  iv. 


THIRD    VOYAGE  0?    ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  61 

dissatisfied  with  their  portions,  and  even  accused  Ojeda  of  un- 
fairness in  reserving  an  undue  share  for  himself.  Perhaps 
there  may  have  been  sc^me  ground  for  this  charge,  arising,  not 
from  any  selfishness  in  the  character  of  Ojeda,  but  from  one  of 
those  superstitious  fancies  with  which  his  mind  was  tinged ;  for 
we  are  told  that,  for  many  years,  he  had  been  haunted  by  a 
presentunent  that  he  should  eventually  die  of  himger.* 

This  lurldng  horror  of  the  mind  may  have  made  him  depart 
from  his  usual  free  and  lavish  spirit  in  dohng  out  these  provi- 
dential supplies,  and  may  have  induced  him  to  set  by  an  extra 
portion  for  himself,  as  a  precaution  against  liis  anticipated  fate ; 
certain  it  is  that  great  clamours  rose  among  his  people,  some 
of  whom  threatened  to  return  in  the  pirate  vessel  to  Hispa- 
niola.  He  succeeded,  however,  in  pacifying  them  for  the  pres- 
ent, by  representing  the  necessity  of  husbandmg  their  supplies, 
and  by  assuring  them  that  the  Bachelor  Enciso  coidd  not  fail 
soon  to  arrive,  when  there  would  be  provisions  in  abundance. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

PACTIONS  IN  THE  COLONY— A  CONVENTION  MADE. 

Days  and  days  elapsed,  but  no  relief  arrived  at  San  Sebac- 
tian.  The  Spaniards  kept  a  ceaseless  watch  upon  the  sea,  but 
the  promised  ship  failed  to  appear.  With  all  the  husbandry 
of  Ojeda  the  stock  of  provisions  was  nearly  consumed ;  famine 
again  prevailed,  and  several  of  the  garrison  perished  through 
theii*  various  sufferings  and  their  lack  of  sufficient  nourish- 
ment. The  survivors  now  became  factious  in  their  misery,  and 
a  plot  was  formed  among  them  to  seize  upon  one  of  the  vessels 

I  in  the  harbour  and  make  sail  for  Hispaniola. 

'  Ojeda  discovered  their  intentions,  and  was  reduced  to  great 
perplexity.  He  saw  that  to  remain  here  without  relief  from 
abroad  was  certam  destruction,  yet  he  clung  to  his  desperate 
enterprise.  It  was  his  only  chance  for  fortune  or  command ; 
for  should  this  settlement  be  broken  up  he  might  try  in  vain, 
with  his  exhausted  means  and  broken  credit,  to  obtain  another 
post  or  to  set  on  foot  another  expedition.  Ruin  in  fact  would 
overwhelm  him,  should  he  return  without  success. 

*  Herrera,  Decad.  1.  1  viii.  c.  3. 


62  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

Ho  exerted  laimself,  therefore,  to  the  utmost  to  pacify  his 
men ;  representing  the  folly  of  abandoning  a  place  where  they 
had  established  a  foothold,  and  where  they  only  needed  a  rein- 
forcement to  enable  them  to  control  the  surrounding  country, 
and  to  make  themselves  masters  of  its  riches.  Finding  they 
siill  demurred,  he  offered,  now  that  he  was  suflSciently  recov- 
ered from  his  wound,  to  go  himself  to  San  Domingo  in  quest  of 
reinforcements  ana  suppUes. 

This  offer  had  the  desired  effect.  Such  confidence  had  the 
people  in  the  energy,  abHity,  and  influence  of  Ojeda,  that  they 
felt  assured  of  relief  should  he  seek  it  in  person.  They  made  a 
kind  of  convention  with  him,  therefore,  in  wloich  it  was  agreed 
that  they  should  remain  quietly  at  Sebastian's  for  the  space  of 
fifty  days.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  in  case  no  tidings  had  been 
received  of  Ojeda,  they  were  to  be  at  liberty  to  abandon  the 
settlement  and  return  in  the  brigantines  to  Hispaniola.  In  the 
mean  time  Francisco  Pizarro  was  to  command  the  colony  as 
Lieutenant  of  Ojeda,  until  the  arrival  of  his  Alcalde  Mayor, 
the  Bachelor  Enciso.  This  convention  being  made,  Ojeda  em- 
barked in  the  ship  of  Bernardino  de  Talavera.  That  cut-purse 
of  the  ocean  and  his  loose-handed  crew  were  effectually  cured 
of  their  ambitioif  to  colonize.  Disappointed  in  the  hope  of  find- 
ing abundant  wealth  at  San  Sebastian's,  and  dismayed  at  the 
perils  and  horrors  of  the  surrounding  wilderness,  they  pre- 
ferred returning  to  Hispaniola,  even  at  the  risk  of  chains  and 
dungeons.  Doubtless  they  thought  that  the  influence  of  Ojeda 
would  be  sufficient  to  obtain  their  pardon,  especially  as  their 
timely  succour  had  been  the  salvation  of  the  colony. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DISASTROUS  VOYAGE  OF  OJEDA  IN  THE  PIRATE  SHIP. 

Ojeda  had  scarce  put  to  sea  in  the  ship  of  these  freebooters, 
when  a  fierce  qiiarrel  arose  between  him  and  Talavera.  Ac- 
customed to  take  the  lead  among  his  companions,  still  feeling 
himself  governor,  and  naturally  of  a  domineering  spirit,  Ojeda, 
on  coming  on  board,  had  assumed  the  command  as  a  matter  of 
course.  Talavera,  who  claimed  dominion  over  the  ship,  by 
the  right,  no  doubt,  of  trover  and  conversion,  or,  in  other 
words,  of  downright  piracy,  resisted  this  usurpation. 


rriirj)  votaqe  of  alonzo  de  ojeda.         c3 

Ojeda,  as  usual,  would  speedily  have  settled  the  question  by 
the  sword,  but  lie  had  tlu'  whole  vagabond  crew  against  him, 
who  overpowered  him  Aviih  numbers  and  threw  him  in  irons. 
Still  his  swelling  spirit  Avas  unsubdued.  He  reviled  Talavera 
and  his  gang  as  recreants,  traitors,  pirates,  and  offered  to 
fight  the  whole  of  them  successively,  provided  they  would 
give  him  a  clear  deck,  and  come  on  two  at  a  time.  Notwith- 
standing his  diminutive  size,  they  had  too  high  an  idea  of  his 
prowess,  and  had  heard  too  much  of  his  exploits,  to  accept  his 
challenge ;  so  they  kept  him  raging  in  his  chains  while  they 
pursued  their  voyage. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  when  a  violent  storm 
arose.  Talavera  and  his  crew  knew  little  of  na\agation,  and 
were  totally  ignorant  of  those  seas.  The  raging  of  the  ele- 
ments, the  baffling  Avinds  and  currents,  and  the  danger  of 
unknown  rocks  and  shoals  filled  them  with  confusion  and 
alarm.  They  knew  not  whither  they  were  driving  before  the 
storm,  or  where  to  seek  for  shelter.  In  this  hour  of  perU  they 
called  to  mind  that  Ojeda  was  a  sailor  as  well  as  soldier,  and 
that  he  had  repeatedly  navigated  these  seas.  Making  a  truce, 
therefore,  for  the  common  safety,  they  took  off  his  irons,  on 
condition  that  he  would  pilot  the  vessel  during  the  remainder 
of  her  voyage. 

Ojeda  acquitted  himself  vni\\  his  accustomed  spirit  and 
intrepidity ;  but  the  vessel  had  been  already  swept  so  far  to 
the  westward  that  all  his  skill  was  ineffectual  in  endeavouring 
to  work  up  to  Ilispaniola  against  storms  and  adverse  currents. 
Borne  away  by  the  gulf  stream,  and  tempest-tost  for  many 
days,  until  the  shattered  vessel  was  almost  in  a  foundering 
condition,  he  saw  no  alternative  but  to  run  it  on  shore  on  the 
southern  coast  of  Cuba. 

Here  then  the  crew  of  freebooters  landed  from  their  prize  in 
more  desperate  plight  than  when  they  first  took  possession  of 
it.  Tliey  were  on  a  wild  and  unfrequented  coast,  their  vessel 
lay  a  wreck  upon  the  sands,  and  their  only  chance  was  to 
travel  on  foot  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island,  and  seek 
some  means  of  crossing  to  Hispaniola,  where,  after  their  toils, 
they  might  perhaps  only  ariive  to  be  thrown  into  a  dungeon. 
Such,  however,  is  the  yearning  of  civilized  men  after  the 
haunts  of  cultivated  society,  that  they  set  out,  at  every 
risk,  upon  their  long  and  painful  journey. 


64  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 


CHAPTER  X. 

TOILSOME  MARCH  OF  OJEDA  AND  HIS  COMPANIONS  THROUGH  THE 
MORASSES  OF  CUBA, 

Notwithstanding  the  recent  services  of  Ojeda,  the  crew  of 
Talavera  still  regarded  him  '\\^ith  hostility;  but,  if  they  had 
felt  the  value  of  his  skill  and.  courage  at  sea,  they  were  no 
less  sensible  of  their  importance  on  shore,  and  he  soon  ac- 
quired that  ascendency  over  them  which  belongs  to  a  master- 
spirit in  time  of  trouble. 

Cuba  was  as  yet  uncolonized.  It  was  a  place  of  refuge  to 
the  unhappy  natives  of  Hayti,  who  fled  hither  from  the 
whips  and  chains  of  their  European  task-masters.  The  for- 
ests abounded  with  these  wretched  fugitives,  who  often 
opposed  themselves  to  the  shipwrecked  party,  supposing 
them  to  be  sent  by  their  late  masters  to  drag  them  back 
to  captivity. 

Ojeda  easily  repulsed  these  attacks;  but  found  that  these 
fugitives  had  likewise  inspired  the  villagers  Avith  hostility 
to  all  European  strangers.  Seeing  that  his  companions 
were  too  feeble  and  disheartened  to  fight  their  way  through 
the  populous  parts  of  the  island,  or  to  climb  the  rugged 
mountains  of  the  interior,  he  avoided  all  towns  and  villages, 
and  led  them  through  the  close  forests  and  broad  green 
sp.vannahs  which  extended  between  the  mountains  and  the 
sea. 

He  had  only  made  choice  of  evils.  The  forests  gradually 
retired  from  the  coast.  The  savannahs,  where  the  Spaniards 
at  first  had  to  contend  merely  with  long  rank  grass  and  creep- 
ing vines,  soon  ended  in  salt  marshes,  where  the  oozy  bottom 
yielded  no  firm  foot-hold,  and  the  mud  and  Avater  reached 
to  their  knees.  Still  they  pressed  forward,  continually  hop- 
ing in  a  httle  while  to  arrive  at  a  firmer  soil,  and  flattering 
themselves  they  beheld  fresh  meadow  land  before  them,  but 
continually  deceived.  The  farther  they  proceeded,  the  deeper 
grew  the  mire,  until,  after  they  had  been  eight  days  on  this 
dismal  journey  they  foimd  themselves  in  the  centre  of  a  vast 
morass  where  the  water  reached  to  their  gu'dles.  Though 
thus  almost  drowned,  they  were  tormented  with  incessant 
thirst,  for  aU  the  water  around  them  was  as  briny  as  the 


THIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  (35 

ocean.  They  suffered  too  the  cravings  of  extreme  hunger, 
having  but  a  scanty  supply  of  cassava  bread  and  cheese, 
and  a  few  potatoes  and  other  roots,  which  they  devoured 
raw.  When  they  wished  to  sleep  they  had  to  climb  among 
the  twisted  roots  of  mnngrovo  trees,  wliich  grew  in  clusters 
in  the  waters.  Still  the  dreary  marsh  widened  and  deepened. 
In  many  places  they  had  to  cross  rivei-s  and  inlets;  where 
some,  who  could  not  s"\\dm,  were  drowned,  and  others  Avere 
smothered  in  the  mire. 

Their  situation  became  wild  and  desperate.  Their  cassava 
bread  was  spoiled  by  the  water,  and  their  stock  of  roots 
nearly  exhausted.  The  interminable  morass  still  extended 
before  them,  while,  to  return,  after  the  distance  they  had 
come,  was  hopeless.  Ojeda  alone  kept  up  a  resolute  spirit, 
and  cheered  and  urged  theni  forward.  Ke  had  the  little 
Flemish  painting  of  the  Madonna,  which  had  been  given 
him  by  the  Bishop  Fonseca,  carefully  stored  among  the  pro- 
visions in  his  knapsack.  Whenever  he  stopped  to  repose 
among  the  roots  of  the  mangrove  trees,  Jie  took  out  this 
picture,  placed  it  among  the  branches,  and  kneeling,  prayed 
devoutly  to  the  Virgin  for  protection.  This  he  did  repeatedly 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  prevailed  upon  Ms  companions  to 
follow  his  example.  Nay,  more,  at  a  moment  of  great  de- 
spondency lie  made  a  solemn  vow  to  his  pati'oness,  that  if  she 
conducted  him  alive  thrcuigh  this  peril,  he  would  erect  a  chapel 
in  the  first  Indian  village  he  should  arrive  at ;  and  leave  her 
picture  there  to  remain  an  object  of  adoration  to  the  Gentiles.* 

This  frightful  morass  extended  for  the  distance  of  thirty 
leagues,  and  was  so  deep  and  difficult,  so  entangled  by  roots 
and  creeping  vines,  so  cut  up  by  creeks  and  rivers,  and  so 
beset  by  quagmires,  that  they  were  thirty  days  in  traversing 
it.  Out  of  the  mmiber  of  seventy  men  that  set  out  from  the 
ship  but  thirty-five  remained.  "Certain  it  is,"  observes  the 
venerable  Las  Casas,  "the  sufferings  of  the  Spaniards  in  the 
New  World,  in  search  of  wealth,  have  been  more  cruel  and 
severe  than  ever  nation  in  the  world  endin-ed ;  but  those  expe- 
rienced by  Ojeda  and  his  men  have  surpassed  all  others." 

They  were  at  length  so  overcome  by  hunger  an<l  fatigue, 
that  some  lay  down  and  yielded  up  the  ghost,  and  others  seat- 
ing themselves  among  the  mangrove  trees,  waited  in  despair 
for  death  to  put  an  end  to  their  miseries.     Ojeda,  with  a  few  of 

*  Las  Casas,  Hist.  Ind.  1.  ii.  c  60,  MS. 


66  SPAMS  II   VOYAGES  OF  V  ISC  OVERT. 

the  lightest  and  most  vigorous,  continued  to  struggle  forward, 
and,  to  their  unutterable  joy,  at  length  arrived  to  where  the 
land  was  firm  and  dry.  They  soon  descried  a  foot-path,  and, 
following  it,  arrived  at  an  Indian  village,  commanded  by  a 
cacique  called  Cueybas.  No  sooner  did  they  reach  the  village 
than  they  sank  to  the  earth  exhausted. 

The  Indians  gathered  round  and  gazed  at  them  with  wonder ; 
but  when  they  learnt  their  story,  they  exhibited  a  humanity 
that  would  have  done  honour  to  the  most  professing  Chris- 
tians. They  bore  them  to  their  dwellings,  set  meat  and  drink 
before  them,  and  vied  with  each  other  in  discharging  the 
oflQces  of  the  kindest  humanity.  Finding  that  a  nmnber  of 
their  companions  were  still  in  the  morass,  the  cacique  sent  a 
large  party  of  Indians  with  provisions  for  their  relief,  with 
orders  to  bring  on  their  shoulders  such  as  were  too  feeble  to 
walk.  "  The  Indians,"  says  the  Bishop  Las  Casas,  "did  more 
than  they  were  ordered ;  for  so  they  always  do,  when  they  are 
not  exasperated  by  ill  treatment.  The  Spaniards  were  brought 
to  the  village,  succoured,  cherished,  consoled,  and  almost  wor- 
shipped as  if  they  had  been  angels." 


CHAPTER  XI. 

OJEDA  PERFORMS  HIS  VOW  TO  THE  VIRGIN. 

Being  recovered  from  his  sufferings,  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  pre- 
pared to  perform  his  vow  concerning  the  picture  of  the  Virgin, 
though  sorely  must  it  have  grieved  him  to  part  with  a  relique 
to  which  he  attributed  liis  deliverance  from  so  many  perils. 
He  built  a  little  hermitage  or  oratory  in  the  village,  and  fur- 
nished it  with  an  altar,  above  which  he  placed  the  picture.  He 
then  summoned  the  benevolent  cacique,  and  explained  to  him 
as  well  as  his  limited  knowledge  of  the  language,  or  the  aid  of 
interpreters  would  permit,  the  main  points  of  the  Catholic 
faith,  and  especially  the  history  of  the  Virgin,  whom  he  repre- 
sented as  the  mother  of  the  Deity  that  reigned  in  the  skies,  and 
the  great  advocate  for  mortal  man. 

The  worthy  caciqvie  listened  to  him  with  mute  attention,  and 
though  he  might  not  clearly  comprehend  the  doctrine,  yet  he 
conceived  a  profound  veneration  for  the  picture.  The  senti- 
ment was  shared  by  his  subjects.     They  kept  the  httle  oratory 


THIRD   VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA.  07 

always  swept  clean,  and  decorated  it  with  cotton  hangings, 
laboured  by  their  own  hands,  and  with  various  votive  offer- 
ings. They  composed  couplets  or  areytos  in  honour  of  the  Vu-- 
gin,  which  they  sang  to  the  accompaniment  of  mde  musical 
instruments,  dancing  to  the  sound  under  the  groves  wliich 
surrounded  the  hermitage. 

A  further  anecdote  concerning  this  relique  may  not  be  unac- 
ceptable. The  venerable  Las  Casas,  who  records  these  facts, 
informs  us  that  he  arrived  at  the  village  of  Cuoybas  sometime 
after  the  departure  of  Ojeda.  He  found  the  oratory  preserved 
with  the  most  religious  care,  as  a  sacred  place,  and  the  picture 
of  the  Virgin  regarded  with  fond  adoration.  The  poor  Indians 
crowded  to  attend  mass,  which  he  performed  at  the  altar ;  they 
listened  attentively  to  his  paternal  instructions,  and  at  his 
request  brought  their  children  to  be  baptized.  The  good  Las 
Casas,  having  heard  much  of  this  famous  relique  of  Ojeda,  was 
desirous  of  obtaining  possession  of  it,  and  offered  to  give  the 
cacique  in  exchange  an  image  of  the  Virgin  which  he  had 
brought  with  him.  The  chieftain  made  an  evasive  answer, 
and  seemed  much  troubled  in  mind.  The  next  morning  he  did 
not  make  his  appearance. 

Las  Casas  went  to  the  oratory  to  perform  mass,  but  found 
the  altar  stripped  of  its  precious  rehque.  On  inquiring,  he 
learnt  that  in  the  night  the  cacique  had  fled  to  the  woods, 
bearing  off  with  him  his  beloved  picture  of  the  Virgin.  It  was 
in  vain  that  Las  Casas  sent  messengers  after  him,  assuring  him 
that  he  should  not  be  deprived  of  the  rehque,  but  on  the  con- 
trary, that  the  image  should  likewise  be  presented  to  him. 
The  cacique  refused  to  venture  from  the  fastnesses  of  the  for- 
est, nor  did  he  return  to  his  village  and  replace  tlie  picture  in 
the  oratory  until  after  the  departure  of  the  Spaniards.* 


CHAPTER  XII. 


ARRIVAL    OF    OJEDA    AT    JA3IAICA— HIS    RECEPTION    BY  JUAN    DE 

ESQUIBEL. 

When  the  Spaniards  were  completely  restored  to  health  and 
strength,  they  resumed  their  journey.  The  cacique  sent  a 
large  body  of  his  subjects  to  carry  their  provisions  and  knap- 

*  Las  Casas,  Hist.  Ind.,  c.  61,  MS.— Herrera,  Hist.  Ind.  d.  i.  1.  ix.  c.  xv. 


68  sPAmsii  roYAOJ]:s  of  disco  febt. 

sacks,  and  to  guide  them  across  a  desert  tract  of  country  to  the 
province  of  Macaca,  where  Christopher  Columbus  had  been 
hospitably  entertained  on  his  voyage  along  this  coast.  They 
experienced  equal  kindness  from  its  cacique  and  his  people,  for 
such  seems  to  have  been  almost  invariably  the  case  with  the 
natives  of  these  islands,  before  they  had  held  much  inter- 
course with  the  Europeans. 

The  province  of  Macaca  was  situated  at  Cape  de  la  Cruz,  the 
nearest  point  to  the  island  of  Jamaica.  Here  Ojeda  learnt  that 
there  were  Spaniards  settled  on  that  island,  being  in  fact  the 
party  commanded  by  the  very  Juan  de  Esquibel  whose  head  he 
had  threatened  to  strike  off,  when  departing  in  swelling  style 
from  San  Domingo.  It  seemed  to  be  the  fortune  of  Ojeda  to 
have  his  bravadoes  visited  on  his  head  in  times  of  trouble  and 
humiliation.  He  found  himself  compelled  to  apply  for  succour 
to  the  very  man  he  had  so  vain-gloriously  menaced.  This  was 
no  time,  however,  to  stand  on  points  of  pride ;  he  procured  a 
canoe  and  Indians  from  the  cacique  of  Macaca,  and  one  Pedro 
de  Ordas  undertook  the  perilous  voyage  of  twenty  leagues  in 
the  frail  bark,  and  arrived  safe  at  Jamaica. 

No  sooner  did  Esquibel  receive  the  message  of  Ojeda,  than, 
forgetting  past  menaces,  he  instantly  despatched  a  caravel  to 
bring  to  him  the  unfortunate  discoverer  and  his  companions. 
He  received  him  with  the  utmost  kindness,  lodged  liim  in  his 
own  house,  and  treated  him  in  all  things  wdth  the  most  delicate 
attention.  He  was  a  gentleman  who  had  seen  prosperous  days, 
but  had  fallen  into  adversity  and  been  buffeted  about  the 
world,  and  had  learnt  how  to  respect  the  feelings  of  a  proud 
spirit  in  distress.  Ojeda  had  the  warm,  touchy  heart  to  feel 
such  conduct;  he  remained  several  days  with  Esquibel  in 
frank  communion,  and  when  he  sailed  for  San  Domingo  they 
parted  the  best  of  friends. 

And  here  we  cannot  but  remark  the  singular  difference  in 
character  and  conduct  of  these  Spanish  adventurers  when  deal- 
ing with  each  other,  or  with  the  imhappy  natives.  Nothing 
could  be  more  cliivalrous,  urbane,  and  charitable;  nothing 
more  pregnant  with  noble  sacrifices  of  passion  and  interest, 
with  magnanimous  instances  of  forgiveness  of  injuries  and 
noble  contests  of  generosity,  than  the  transactions  of  the  dis- 
coverers with  each  other ;  iDut  the  moment  they  turned  to  treat 
with  the  Indians,  even  with  brave  and  high-minded  caciques, 
they  were  vindictive,  blood-thirsty,  and  implacable.  The  very 
Juan  de  Esquibel,  who  could  requite  the  recent  hostility  of 


THIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  DE   OJEDA.  69 

Ojeda  with  such  humanity  and  friendship,  was  the  same  who, 
under  the  government  of  Ovando,  laid  desolate  the  province  of 
Higuey  in  Hispaniola,  and  inflicted  atrocious  cruelties  upon 
its  inhabitants. 

When  xUonzo  de  Ojeda  set  sail  for  San  Domingo,  Bernardino 
de  Talavera  and  his  rabble  adherents  remained  at  Jamaica. 
They  feai-ed  to  be  brought  to  account  for  their  piratical  exploit 
in  steahng  the  Genoese  vessel,  and  that  in  consequence  of  their 
recent  violence  to  Ojeda,  they  would  find  in  him  an  accuser 
rather  than  an  advocate.  Tlie  latter,  however,  in  the  opinion 
of  Las  Casas,  who  knew  him  well,  was  not  a  man  to  make  ac- 
cusations. With  all  his  faults  he  did  not  harbour  malice.  He 
was  quick  and  fiery,  it  is  true,  and  his  sword  was  too  apt  to 
leap  from  its  scabbard  on  the  least  provocation ;  but  after  the 
first  flash  all  was  over,  and,  if  he  cooled  upon  an  injury,  he 
never  sought  for  vengeance. 


CHAPTER  Xm. 


ARRIVAL  OF    ALONZO    DE    OJEDA    AT    SAN    DOMINGO— CONCLUSION 
OF  HIS  STORY. 

On  arriving  at  San  Domingo  the  first  inquiry  of  Alonzo  de 
Ojeda  was  after  the  Bachelor  Enciso.  He  was  told  that  ho  had 
departed  long  before,  with  abundant  suppHes  for  the  colony, 
and  that  nothing  had  been  heard  of  him  since  his  departure. 
Ojeda  waited  for  a  time,  in  hopes  of  hearing,  by  some  retiim 
ship,  of  the  safe  arrival  of  the  Bachelor  at  San  Sebastian.  No 
tidings,  however,  arrived,  and  he  began  to  fear  that  he  had 
been  lost  in  those  storms  which  had  beset  himself  on  his  return 
voyage. 

Anxious  for  the  relief  of  his  settlement,  and  fearing  that,  by 
delay,  his  whole  scheme  of  colonization  would  bo  defeated,  he 
now  endeavoured  to  set  on  foot  another  armament,  and  to  en- 
list a  new  set  of  adventurers.  His  efforts,  however,  were  all 
ineffectual.  The  disasters  of  his  colony  were  known,  and  his 
own  circumstances  were  considered  desperate.  He  was  doomed 
to  experience  the  fate  that  too  often  attends  sanguine  and  bril- 
liant projectors.  The  world  is  dazzled  bj'  them  for  a  time,  and 
hails  them  as  heroes  while  successful ;  but  misfortune  dissipates 


70  SPAmSII  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

the  charm,  and  they  become  stigmatized  with  the  appellation 
of  adventurers.  When  Ojeda  figured  in  San  Domingo  as  the 
conqueror  of  Coanabo,  as  the  commander  of  a  squadron,  as  the 
governor  of  a  province,  his  prowess  and  exploits  were  the 
theme  of  every  tongue.  When  he  set  sail,  in  vaunting  style, 
for  his  seat  of  government,  setting  the  viceroy  at  defiance, 
and  threatening  the  life  of  Esquibel,  every  one  thought  that 
fortune  was  at  his  beck,  and  he  was  about  to  accomplish  won- 
ders. A  few  months  had  elapsed,  and  he  walked  the  streets  of 
San  Domingo  a  needy  man,  shipwrecked  in  hope  and  fortune. 
His  former  friends,  dreading  some  new  demand  upon  their 
purses,  looked  coldly  on  him;  his  schemes,  once  so  extolled, 
were  now  pronounced  wild  and  chimerical,  and  he  was  sub- 
jected to  all  kmds  of  shghts  and  humiliations  in  the  very  place 
wliich  had  been  the  scene  of  his  greatest  vain-glory. 

While  Ojeda  was  thus  lingering  at  San  Domingo,  the  Admi- 
ral, Don  Diego  Columbus,  sent  a  party  of  soldiers  to  Jamaica 
to  arrest  Talavera  and  Ms  pirate  crew.  They  were  brought  in 
chains  to  San  Domingo,  thrown  into  dungeons,  and  tried  for 
the  robbery  of  the  Genoese  vessel.  Their  crime  was  too  notori- 
ous to  adixdt  of  doubt,  and  being  convicted,  Talavera  and  sev- 
eral of  his  principal  accomplices  were  hanged.  Such  was  the 
end  of  their  frightful  journey  by  sea  and  land.  Never  had 
vagabonds  travelled  farther  or  toiled  harder  to  arrive  at  a  gal- 
lows! 

In  the  course  of  the  trial  Ojeda  had  naturally  been  summoned 
as  a  witness,  and  his  testimony  must  have  tended  greatly  to 
the  conviction  of  the  culprits.  This  drew  upon  him  the  ven- 
geance of  the  surviving  comrades  of  Talavera,  who  still  lurked 
about  San  Domingo.  As  he  was  returning  home  one  night  at 
a  late  hour  he  was  waylaid  and  set  upon  by  a  number  of  these 
miscreants.  He  displayed  his  usual  spirit.  Setting  his  back 
against  a  wall,  and  drawing  his  sword,  he  defended  himself  ad 
mirably  against  the  whole  gang ;  nor  was  he  content  with  beat- 
ing them  off,  but  pursued  them  for  some  distance  through  the 
streets;  and  having  thus  put  tbem  to  utter  rout,  returned  tran- 
quil and  unharmed  to  his  lodgings. 

This  is  the  last  achievement  recorded  of  the  gallant,  but  reck- 
less, Ojeda;  for  here  his  bustling  career  terminated,  and  he 
sank  into  the  obscurity  that  gathers  round  a  iiiined  man.  His 
health  was  broken  by  the  various  hardships  he  had  sustained, 
and  by  the  lurking  effects  of  the  woimd  received  at  San  Sebas- 
tian, which  had  beeia  but  imperfectly  cured.     Poverty  and  ne- 


TUIRD    VOYAGE  OF  ALONZO  BE  OJEDA.  71 

gleet,  and  the  corroding  sickness  of  the  heart,  contributed,  no 
less  than  the  maladies  of  the  body,  to  quench  that  sanguine 
and  fiery  temper,  which  had  hitherto  been  the  secret  of  his 
success,  and  to  render  him  the  mere. wreck  of  his  former  self; 
for  there  is  no  ruin  so  hopeless  and  complete  as  that  of  a  tower- 
ing spirit  humiliated  and  broken  down.  He  appears  to  have 
lingered  some  time  at  San  Domingo.  Gomara,  in  his  history 
of  the  Indies,  affirms  that  he  turned  monk,  and  entered  in  the 
convent  at  San  Francisco,  where  he  died.  Such  a  change 
would  not  have  been  surprising  in  a  man  who,  in  his  wildest 
career,  mingled  the  bigot  with  the  soldier ;  nor  was  it  unusual 
with  military  adventurers  in  those  days,  after  passing  their 
youth  in  the  bustle  and  licentiousness  of  the  camp,  to  end  their 
days  in  the  quiet  and  mortification  of  the  cloister.  Las  Casas, 
however,  who  was  at  San  Domingo  at  the  time,  makes  no  men- 
tion of  the  fact,  as  he  certainly  would  have  done  had  it  taken 
place.  He  confirms,  however,  all  that  has  been  said  of  the 
striking  reverse  in  his  character  and  circumstances;  and  he 
adds  an  affecting  picture  of  his  last  moments,  wliich  may  serve 
as  a  wholesome  comment  on  his  life.  He  died  so  poor,  that  he 
did  not  leave  money  enough  to  provide  for  his  interment ;  and 
so  broken  in  spirit,  that,  with  his  last  breath,  he  entreated  his 
body  might  be  buried  in  the  monastery  of  San  Francisco,  just 
at  the  portal,  in  humble  expiation  of  his  past  pride,  "that  every 
one  icho  entered  might  tread  upon  his  grave.''''* 

Such  was  the  fate  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  — and  who  does  not 
forget  his  errors  and  his  faults  at  the  threshold  of  his  humble 
and  imtimely  gi*ave !  He  was  one  of  the  most  fearless  and 
aspiring  of  that  band  of  "Ocean  chivalry"  that  followed  the 
footsteps  of  Columbus.  His  story  presents  a  lively  picture  of 
the  daring  enterprises,  the  extravagant  exploits,  the  thousand 
accidents,  by  flood  and  field,  that  chequered  the  life  of  a 
Spanish  cavaher  in  that  roving  and  romantic  age. 

"Never,"  says  Charlevoix,  "was  man  more  suited  for  a 
coup-de-main,  or  to  achieve  and  suffer  great  things  under  the 
direction  of  another :  none  had  a  heart  more  lofty,  or  ambition 
more  aspiring ;  none  ever  took  loss  heed  of  fortune,  or  showed 
greater  firmness  of  soul,  or  found  more  resources  in  his  own 
coiu-age;  but  none  was  less  calculated  to  be  commander-in- 
chief  of  a  great  enterprise.  Good  management  and  good  for- 
tune for  ever  failed  him."t 

♦  Las  Casas,  ubi  sup.  t  Charlevoix,  Hist.  S.  Doming. 


73  JSPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DUSCOVERT. 


THE  VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  NICUESA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

NICUESA    SAILS    TO    THE  WESTWARD— HIS    SHIPWRECK    AND  SUB- 
SEQUENT DISASTERS. 

We  have  now  to  recount  the  fortunes  experien:?ed  by  the 
gallant  and  generous  Diego  de  Nicuesa,  after  his  parting  from 
Alonzo  de  Ojeda  at  Carthagena.  On  resuming  his  voyage  he 
embarked  in  a  caravel,  that  he  might  be  able  to  coast  the  land 
and  reconnoitre ;  he  ordered  that  the  two  brigan tines,  one  of 
wliich  was  commanded  by  his  lieutenant.  Lope  de  Olano, 
should  keep  near  to  him,  while  the  large  vessels,  which  drew 
more  water,  should  stand  further  out  to  sea.  The  squadron 
arrived  upon  the  coast  of  Veragua,  in  stormy  weather,  and,  as 
Nicuesa  could  not  find  any  safe  harbour,  and  was  apprehensive 
of  rocks  and  shoals,  he  stood  out  to  sea  at  the  approach  of 
night,  supposmg  that  Lope  de  Olano  would  follow  him  with 
the  brigantines  according  to  his  orders.  The  night  was  bois- 
terous, the  caravel  was  much  tossed  and  driven  about,  and 
when  the  morning  dawned,  not  one  of  the  squadron  was  in 
sight. 

Nicuesa  feared  some  accident  had  befallen  the  brigantines ; 
he  stood  for  the  land  and  coasted  along  it  in  search  of  them 
until  he  came  to  a  large  river,  into  which  he  entered  and  came 
to  anchor.  He  had  not  been  here  long  when  the  stream  sud- 
denly subsided,  having  merely  been  swoln  by  the  rains. 
Before  he  had  time  to  extricate  himself  the  caravel  grounded, 
and  at  length  fell  over  on  one  side.  The  current  rushing  like 
a  torrent  strained  the  feeble  bark  to  such  a  degree,  that  her 
seams  yawned,  and  she  appeared  ready  to  go  to  pieces.  In 
this  moment  of  peril  a  hardy  seamen  threw  himself  into  the 
water  to  carry  the  end  of  a  rope  on  shore  as  a  moans  of  saving 
the  crew.  He  was  swept  away  by  the  furious  cin^rent  and 
perished  in  sight  of  his  companions.    Undismayed  by  his  fate, 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEOO  DE  NICUESA.  73 

another  brave  seaman  plunged  into  the  waves  and  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  shore.  He  then  fastened  one  end  of  a  rope 
firmly  to  a  tree,  and,  the  other  being  secured  on  board  of  the 
caravel,  Nicuesa  and  his  crew  passed  one  by  one  along  it,  and 
reached  the  shore  in  safety. 

Scarcely  had  they  landed  when  the  caravel  went  to  pieces, 
and  with  it  j^erished  their  provisions,  clothing;  and  all  other 
necessaries.  Nothing  remained  to  them  but  the  boat  of  the 
caravel,  which  was  accidentally  cast  on  shore.  Here  then  they 
wore,  in  helpless  plight,  on  a  remote  and  savage  coast,  without 
food,  without  arms,  and  almost  naked.  What  had  become  of 
the  rest  of  the  squjidron  they  knew  not.  Some  feai-ed  that 
the  brigantines  had  been  wrecked ;  others  called  to  mind  that 
Lope  de  Olano  had  been  one  of  the  loose  lawless  men  confeder- 
ated with  Francisco  Roldan  in  his  rebellion  against  Columbus, 
and,  judging  him  from  the  school  in  which  he  had  served, 
hinted  their  apprehensions  that  he  had  deserted  with  the  brig- 
antines. Nicuesa  partook  of  their  suspicions,  and  was  anxious 
and  sad  at  heart.  He  concealed  his  uneasiness,  however,  and 
endeavoured  to  cheer  up  his  companions,  proposing  that  they 
should  proceed  westward  on  foot  in  search  of  Veragua,  the  seat 
of  his  intended  government,  observing,  that  if  the  ships  had 
survived  the  tempest,  they  would  probably  repair  to  that 
place.  They  accordingly  set  off  along  the  sea  shore,  for  the 
thickness  of  the  forest  prevented  their  traversing  the  interior. 
Four  of  the  hardiest  sailors  put  to  sea  in  the  boat,  and  kept 
abreast  of  them,  to  help  them  across  the  bays  and  rivers. 

Their  sufferings  were  extreme.  Most  of  them  were  destitute 
of  shoes,  and  many  almost  naked.  They  had  to  clamber  over 
sharp  and  rugged  rocks,  and  to  struggle  through  dense  forests 
beset  with  thorns  and  brambles.  Often  they  had  to  wade 
across  rank  fens  and  morasses  and  drowned  lands,  or  to  trav- 
erse deep  and  rapid  streams. 

Their  food  consisted  of  herbs  and  roots  and  shellfish  gath- 
ered along  the  shore.  Had  they  even  met  with  Indians  they 
would  have  dreaded,  in  their  unarmed  state,  to  apply  to  them 
for  provisions,  lest  they  should  take  revenge  for  the  outrages 
committed  along  this  coast  by  other  Europeans. 

To  render  their  sufferings  more  intolerable,  they  were  in 
doubt  whether,  in  the  storms  which  preceded  their  shipwreck, 
they  had  not  been  driven  past  Veragua.  in  which  case  each 
step  would  take  them  so  much  the  farther  from  their  desii'ed 
haven. 


74  SyANISE  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

Still  tliey  laboured  feebly  forward,  encouraged  by  the  words 
and  the  example  of  Nicuesa,  who  cheerfully  partook  of  the 
toils  and  hardships  of  the  meanest  of  his  men. 

They  had  slept  one  night  at  the  foot  of  impending  rocks,  and 
were  about  to  resume  their  weary  march  in  the  morning, 
when  they  were  espied  by  some  Indians  from  a  neighbouring 
height.  Among  the  followers  of  Nicuesa  was  a  favourite  page, 
whose  tattered  finery  and  white  hat  caught  the  qmck  eyes  of 
the  savages.  One  of  them  immediately  singled  him  out,  and 
taking  a  deadly  aim,  let  fly  an  arrow  that  laid  him  expiring  at 
the  feet  of  his  master.  While  the  generous  cavaher  mourned 
over  his  slaughtered  page,  consternation  prevailed  among  his 
companions,  each  fearing  for  his  own  life.  The  Indians,  how- 
ever, did  not  foUow  up  this  casual  act  of  hostility,  but  suffered 
the  Spaniards  to  pursue  their  painful  journey  unmolested. 

Arriving  one  day  at  the  point  of  a  great  bay  that  ran  far 
inland,  they  were  conveyed,  a  few  at  a  time,  in  the  boat  to 
what  appeared  to  be  the  opposite  point.  Being  all  landed,  and 
resuming  their  march,  they  found  to  their  surprise  that  they 
were  on  an  island,  separated  from  the  main  land  by  a  great 
arm  of  the  sea.  The  sailors  who  managed  the  boat  were  too 
weary  to  take  them  to  the  opposite  shore;  they  remained 
therefore  all  night  upon  the  island. 

In  the  morning  they  prepared  to  depart,  but,  to  their  con- 
sternation, the  boat  with  the  four  mariners  had  disappeared. 
They  ran  anxiously  from  point  to  point,  uttering  shouts  and 
cries,  in  hopes  the  boat  migJit  be  in  some  inlet;  they  clam- 
bered the  rocks  and  strained  their  eyes  over  the  sea.  It  was 
all  in  vain.  No  boat  was  to  be  seen ;  no  voice  responded  to 
their  call ;  it  was  too  evident  the  four  mariners  had  either  per- 
ished or  had  deserted  them. 


CHAPTER  II. 

NICUESA  AND  HIS  MEN   ON  A  DESOLATE  ISLAND. 

The  situation  of  Nicuesa  and  his  men  was  dreary  and  des- 
perate in  the  extreme.  They  were  on  a  desolate  island  border- 
ing upon  a  swampy  coast,  in  a  remote  and  lonely  sea,  where 
commerce  never  spread  a  sail.  Their  companions  in  the  other 
ships,  if  still  aHve  and  true  to  them,  had  doubtless  given  them 


THE   V07A0E  OF  DIEGO  DE  NICUESA.  75 

up  for  lost ;  and  many  y^ars  might  elapse  before  the  casual 
bark  of  a  discoverer  might  venture  along  these  shores.  Long 
before  that  time  their  fate  would  be  sealed,  and  their  bones 
bleaching  on  the  sands  -would  alone  tell  their  story. 

In  this  hopeless  state  many  abandoned  themselves  to  frantic 
grief,  wandering  about  the  island,  wrmging  their  hands  and 
uttering  groans  and  lamentations ;  others  called  upon  God  for 
succour,  and  many  sat  down  in  silent  and  sullen  despair. 

The  cravings  of  hunger  and  thirst  at  length  roused  them  to 
exertion.  They  found  no  food  but  a  few  shell-fish  scattered 
along  the  shore,  and  coarse  herbs  and  roots,  some  of  them  of 
an  unwholesome  quality.  The  island  had  neither  springs  nor 
streams  of  fresh  water,  and  they  were  fain  to  slake  their  thirst 
at  the  brackish  pools  of  the  marshes. 

Nicuesa  endeavoured  to  animate  his  men  with  new  hopes. 
He  employed  them  in  constructing  a  raft  of  drift-wood  and 
branches  of  trees,  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  the  arm  of  the 
sea  that  separated  them  from  the  main  land.  It  was  a  difficult 
task,  for  they  were  destitute  of  tools,  and  when  the  raft  was 
finished  they  had  no  oars  with  which  to  manage  it.  Some  of 
the  most  expert  swimmers  undertook  to  propel  it,  but  they 
were  too  much  enfeebled  by  their  suffeiings.  On  their  first 
essay  the  currents  which  sweep  that  coast  bore  the  raft  out  to 
sea,  and  they  swam  back  with  diflSculty  to  the  island.  Having 
no  other  chance  of  escape,  and  no  other  means  of  exercising 
and  keeping  up  the  spirits  of  his  followers,  Nicuesa  repeatedly 
ordered  new  rafts  to  be  constructed,  but  the  result  was  always 
the  same,  and  the  men  at  length  either  grew  too  feeble  to  work 
or  renounced  the  attempt  in  despair. 

Thus,  day  after  day  and  week  after  week  elapsed  without 
any  mitigation  of  suffering  or  any  prospect  of  relief.  Every 
day  some  one  or  other  sank  under  his  miseries,  a  victim  not  so 
much  to  hunger  and  thirst  as  to  grief  and  despondency.  His 
death  was  envied  by  his  wretched  survivors,  many  of  whom 
were  reduced  to  such  debility  that  they  had  to  crawl  on  hands 
and  knees  in  search  of  the  herbs  and  sheU-fish  which  formed 
their  scanty  food. 


76  SPAJVISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

CHAPTER  III. 

ARRIVAL  OF  A  BOAT— CONDUCT  OF  LOPE  DE  OLANO. 

When  the  unfortunate  Spaniards,  without  hope  of  succour, 
began  to  consider  death  as  a  desirable  end  to  their  miseries, 
they  were  roused  to  new  life  one  day  by  beholding  a  sail  gleam- 
ing on  the  horizon.  Their  exultation  was  checked,  however, 
by  the  reflection  how  man^  chances  there  were  against  its 
approaching  this  wild  and  desolate  island.  Watching  it  with 
anxious  eyes  they  put  up  prayers  to  God  to  conduct  it  to  their 
relief,  and  at  length,  to  their  gi^eat  joy,  they  perceived  that  it 
was  steering  directly  for  the  island.  On  a  nearer  approach  it 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  brigantines  that  had  been  commanded 
by  Lope  de  Olano.  It  came  to  anchor:  a  boat  put  off,  and 
among  the  crew  were  the  four  sailors  who  had  disappeared  so 
mysteriously  from  the  island. 

These  men  accounted  in  a  satisfactory  manner  for  their  de- 
sertion. They  had  been  persuaded  that  the  ships  were  in  some 
harbour  to  the  eastward,  and  that  they  were  daily  leaving  them 
farther  behind.  Disheartened  at  the  constant,  and,  in  their 
opinion,  fruitless  toil  which  fell  to  their  share  in  the  struggle 
westward,  they  resolved  to  take  their  own  counsel,  without 
risking  the  opposition  of  Nicuesa.  In  the  dead  of  the  night, 
therefore,  when  their  companions  on  the  island  were  asleep, 
they  had  silently  cast  off  their  boat,  and  retraced  their  coui-se 
along  the  coast.  After  several  days'  toil  they  found  the  brig- 
antines under  the  coromand  of  Lope  de  Olano,  in  the  river  of 
Belen,  the  scene  of  the  disasters  of  Columbus  in  his  fourth 
voyage. 

The  conduct  of  Lope  de  Olano  was  regarded  with  suspicion 
by  his  contemporaries,  and  is  still  subject  to  doubt.  He  is 
supposed  to  have  deserted  Nicuesa  designedly,  intending  to 
usurp  the  command  of  the  expedition,  ilen,  however,  were 
prone  to  judge  harshly  of  him  from  his  having  been  concerned 
in  the  treason  and  rebelHon  of  Francisco  Eoldan.  On  the 
stormy  night  when  Nicuesa  stood  out  to  sea  to  avoid  the  dan- 
gers of  the  shore,  Olano  took  shelter  under  the  lee  of  an  island. 
Seeing  nothing  of  the  caravel  of  his  commander  in  the  morn- 
ing, he  made  no  effort  to  seek  for  it,  but  proceeded  with  the 
^ngantines  to  the  river  Chagres,  where  he  found  the  ships  at 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  XICUESA.  77 

anchor.  Tlicy  had  landed  all  their  cargo,  being  almost  in  a 
sinldng  condition  from  tho  ravages  of  the  ■worms.  Olano  per- 
suaded the  crews  that  Nicuesa  had  perished  in  the  late  storm, 
and,  being  his  heutenant,  he  assumed  the  command.  Whether 
he  had  been  perfidious  or  not  in  his  motives,  his  command  was 
but  a  succession  of  disasters.  He  sailed  from  Chagi-es  for  the 
river  of  Belen,  where  the  ships  were  found  so  damaged  that 
they  had  to  be  broken  to  pieces.  ]\Iost  of  the  p(!ople  construct- 
ed wretched  cabins  on  tho  shore,  where,  during  a  sudden 
storm,  they  were  almost  washed  away  by  the  swelling  of  the 
river,  or  swallowed  up  in  the  shifting  sands.  Several  of  his 
men  were  drowned  in  an  expedition  in  quest  of  gold,  and  he 
liimself  merely  escaped  by  superior  swimming.  Their  provi- 
sions were  exhausted,  they  suffered  from  hunger  and  from  va- 
rious maladies,  and  many  perished  in  extreme  niiserj-.  All 
were  clamorous  to  abandon  the  coast,  and  Olano  set  about  con- 
structing a  caravel,  out  of  the  wreck  of  the  sliij^s,  for  the  pur- 
pose, as  ho  said,  of  retiu'ning  to  Hispaniola,  though  many 
suspected  it  was  still  his  intention  to  persist  in  tho  enterprise. 
Such  was  the  state  in  wliich  the  four  seamen  had  found  Olano 
and  liis  party ;  most  of  them  hving  in  misei'able  cabins  and 
destitute  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

The  tidings  that  Nicuesa  was  still  alive  put  an  end  to  the 
sway  of  Olano.  Whether  he  had  acted  with  truth  or  perfidy, 
he  now  manifested  a  zeal  to  relieve  his  commander,  and  imme- 
diately despatched  a  brigantine  in  quest  of  bun,  which,  guided 
by  tho  four  seamen,  arrived  at  the  island  in  the  way  that  has 
been  mentioned. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

NICUESA  REJOINS  HIS  CREWS. 

When  the  crew  of  the  brigantine  and  the  companions  of 
Nicuesa  met,  they  embraced  each  other  vrith  tears,  for  the 
hearts,  even  of  the  rough  marinei'S,  were  subdued  by  the  sor- 
rows they  had  undergone ;  and  men  are  rendered  kind  to  each 
other  by  a  community  of  suffering.  The  brigantine  had 
brought  a  quantity  of  p;ilm  nuts,  and  of  such  other  articles  of 
food  as  they  had  been  able  to  procure  along  tho  coast.  These 
the  famished  Spaniards  devoured  with  such  voracity  that 
Nicuesa  was  obHged  to  interfere,  l«^ef  iViav  should  injure  them- 


78  SPAmsn  voyages  of  discovert/ 

selves.  Nor  was  the  supply  of  fresh  water  less  grateful  to 
their  parched  and  fevered  palates. 

When  sufficiently  revived,  they  all  abandoned  the  desolate 
island,  and  set  sail  for  the  river  Belen,  exulting  as  joyfully  a,s 
if  their  troubles  were  at  an  end,  and  they  were  bound  to  a 
haven  of  delight,  instead  of  merely  changing  the  scene  of 
sulfering  and  encountering  a  new  variety  of  horrors. 

In  the  mean  time  Lope  de  Olano  had  been  diligently  prepar- 
ing for  the  approaching  interview  with  his  commander,  by 
persuading  his  fellow  officers  to  intercede  in  his  behalf,  and  to 
place  his  late  conduct  in  the  most  favourable  light.  He  had 
need  of  their  intercessions.  Nicuesa  arrived,  burning  with 
indignation.  He  ordered  him  to  be  instantly  seized  and  pun- 
ished as  a  traitor ;  attributing  to  his  desertion  the  ruin  of  the 
enterprise  and  the  sufferings  and  death  of  so  many  of  his  brave 
followers.  The  fellow  captains  of  Olano  spoke  in  his  favous ; 
but  Nicuesa  turned  indignantly  upon  them:  "You  do  well," 
cried  he,  "to  supplicate  mercy  for  him;  you,  who,  yourselves, 
have  need  of  pardon!  You  have  participated  in  his  crime; 
why  else  have  you  suffered  so  long  a  time  to  elapse  without 
compelling  him  to  send  one  of  the  vessels  in  search  of  me?" 

The  captains  now  vindicated  themselves  by  assurances  of 
their  beUef  in  his  having  foundered  at  sea.  They  reitei'ated 
their  supplications  for  mercy  to  Olano;  drawing  the  most 
affecting  pictures  of  their  past  and  present  sufferings,  and 
urging  the  impolicy  of  increasing  the  horrors  of  their  situation 
by  acts  of  severity.  Nicuesa  at  length  was  prevailed  upon  to 
spare  his  victim ;  resolving  to  send  him,  by  the  first  opportun- 
ity, a  prisoner  to  Spain.  It  appeared,  in  truth,  no  time  to  add 
to  the  daily  blows  of  fate  that  were  thinning  the  number  of 
his  followers.  Of  the  gallant  armament  of  seven  hundred 
resolute  and  effective  men  that  had  sailed  with  him  from 
San  Domingo,  four  hundred  had  already  perished  by  various 
miseries ;  and  of  the  survivors,  many  could  scarcely  be  said  to 
live. 


CHAPTER  V. 


SUFFERINGS    OF    NICUESA    AND    HIS    MEN    ON    THE  COAST  OF  THE 

ISTHMUS. 

The  first  care  of  Nicuesa,  on  resuming  the  general  command, 
was  to  take  rr^oaaiiT-es  for  the  relief  of  his  people,  w^""^  -t^o^.^ 


TUB   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  BE  NIGUESA.  79 

perishing  with  famine  and  disease.  All  those  who  were  in 
health,  or  who  had  strength  cufficiont  to  bear  the  least  fatigue, 
were  sent  on  foi'aging  parties  among  the  fields  and  villages  of 
the  natives.  It  was  a  service  of  extreme  peril ;  for  tlie  Indians 
cf  this  part  of  the  coast  were  fierce  and  warlike,  and  were  the 
same  who  had  proved  so  formidable  to  Columbus  and  his 
brother  when  they  attempted  to  found  a  settlement  in  this 
neighbourhood. 

Many  of  the  Spaniards  were  slain  in  these  expeditions.  Even 
if  they  succeeded  in  collecting  provisions,  the  toil  of  bringing 
them  to  the  harbour  was  woi'se  to  men  m  their  enfeebled  con- 
dition than  the  task  of  fighting  for  them ;  for  they  were  obhged 
to  transport  them  on  their  backs,  and,  thus  heavily  laden,  to 
scramble  over  I'ugged  rocks,  through  almost  impervious 
forests,  and  across  dismal  swamps. 

Harassed  by  these  perils  and  fatigues,  they  broke  forth  into 
nmrmurs  against  their  commander,  accusing  him,  not  merely 
of  indiit'erence  to  their  sufierings,  but  of  wantonly  imposing 
severe  and  unnecessary  tasks  upon  them  out  of  revenge  for 
their  having  neglected  him. 

The  genial  temper  of  Nicuesa  had,  in  fact,  been  soured  by 
disappointment ;  and  a  series  of  harassing  cares  and  evils  had 
rendered  him  irritable  and  impatient ;  but  he  was  a  cavaher  of 
a  generous  and  honourable  nature,  and  does  not  appear  to  have 
enforced  any  sei-viees  that  were  not  indispensable  to  the  com- 
mon safety.  In  fact,  the  famine  had  increased  to  such  a 
degree,  that,  we  are  told,  thirt.y  Spaniards,  having  on  one 
occasion  found  the  dead  body  of  an  Indian  in  a  state  of  decay, 
they  were  driven  by  hunger  to  make  a  meal  of  it,  and  were  so 
infected  by  the  horrible  repast,  that  not  one  of  them  survived.* 

Disheartened  by  these  miseries,  Nicuesa  determined  to  aban- 
don a  place  which  seemed  destined  to  be  the  grave  of  Span- 
iards. Embarking  the  greater  part  of  his  men  in  the  two 
briifantines  and  the- caravel  which  had  been  built  by  Olano,  he 
set  sail  eastward  in  search  of  some  more  favourable  situation 
for  his  settlement.  A  number  of  the  men  remamed  behind  to 
await  the  ripening  of  some  maize  and  vegetables  which  they 
had  sown.  These  he  left  under  the  command  of  Alonzo  Nunez, 
whom  he  nominated  his  Alcalde  Mayor. 

"When  Nicuesa  had  coasted  about  four  leagues  to  the  east,  a 
Genoese  sailor,  who  had  been  with  Columbus  in  his  last  voy- 

•  Herrera,  Hist.  lud.  D.  i.  and  viii.  c.  2. 


80  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY.  . 

ago,  informed  him  that  there  was  a  fine  harbour  somewhere 
in  that  neighbourhood,  which  had  pleased  the  old  admiral  so 
higlily  that  he  had  given  it  the  name  of  Puerto  Bello.  He 
added  that  they  might  know  the  harbour  by  an  anchor,  half 
buried  in  the  sand,  which  Colmubus  had  left  there;  near  to 
which  was  a  foimtain  of  remarkably  cool  and  sweet  water 
springing  up  at  the  foot  of  a  large  tree.  Nicuesa  ordered 
search  to  be  made  along  the  coast,  and  at  length  they  found 
tlie  anchor,  the  fountain,  and  the  tree.  It  was  the  same  har- 
bour which  bears  the  name  of  Portobello  at  the  present  day. 
A  number  of  the  crew  were  sent  on  shore  in  search  of  provi- 
sions, but  were  assailed  by  the  Indians ;  and,  being  too  weak 
to  wield  their  weai^ons  with  their  usual  prowess,  were  driven 
back  to  the  vessels  with  the  loss  of  several  slain  or  wounded. 

Dejected  at  these  continual  misfortunes,  Nicuesa  continued 
his  voyage  seven  leagues  farther,  until  he  came  to  the  harbour 
to  which  Columbus  had  given  the  name  of  Puerto  de  Bastimi- 
entos,  or  Port  of  Provisions.  It  presented  an  advantageous 
situation  for  a  fortress,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  finiitful  coun- 
try. Nicuesa  resolved  to  make  it  his  abiding  place.  "Here," 
said  he,  "let  us  stop,  en  el  nombre  deDiosT  (in  the  name  of 
God.)  His  followers,  with  the  superstitious  feeling  with 
which  men  in  adversity  are  prone  to  interpret  every  thing 
into  omens,  persuaded  themselves  that  there  was  favourable 
augury  in  his  words,  and  caUed  the  harbour  "Nombre  de 
Dios,"  which  name  it  afterwards  retained. 

Nicuesa  now  landed,  and,  drawing  his  sword,  took  solemn 
possession  in  the  name  of  the  Catholic  sovereigns.  He  im^ 
mediately  began  to  erect  a  fortress  to  protect  his  people 
against  the  attacks  of  the  savages.  As  this  was  a  case  of  exi- 
gency, he  exacted  the  labour  of  every  one  capable  of  exertion. 
The  Spaniards,  thus  equally  distressed  by  famine  and  tod,  for- 
got their  favourable  omen,  cursed  the  place  as  fated  to  be  their 
grave,  and  called  down  imprecations  on  the  head  of  their  com- 
mander, who  compelled  them  to  labour  when  ready  to  sink 
with  hunger  and  debility.  Those  murmured  no  less  who  were 
sent  in  quest  of  food,  which  was  only  to  be  gained  by  fatigue 
and  bloodshed;  for,  whatever  they  collected,  they  had  to 
transport  from  great  distances,  and  they  were  frequently 
waylaid  and  assaulted  by  the  Indians. 

When  he  could  spare  men  for  the  purpose,  Nicuesa  de- 
spatched the  caravel  for  those  whom  he  had  left  at  the  river 
Belen.     Many  of  them  had  perished,  and  the  survivors  had 


TUE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  NICUESA.  81 

been  reduced  to  such  famine  at  times  as  to  eat  all  kinds  of 
reptiles,  until  a  part  of  an  alligator  was  a  banquet  to  them. 
On  nuistoring  all  his  forces  when  thus  united,  Nicuesa  found 
that  but  one  hundred  emaciated  and  dejected  wretches  re- 
mauied. 

He  despatched  the  caravel  to  Hispaniola,  to  bring  a  quan- 
tity of  bacon  which  he  had  ordered  to  have  prepared  there, 
but  it  never  returned.  He  ordered  Gonzalo  de  Badajos,  at  the 
head  of  twenty  men,  to  scour  the  country  for  provisions;  but 
the  Indians  had  ceased  to  cultivate ;  they  could  do  with  little 
food,  and  could  subsist  on  the  roots  and  wild  fruits  of  the  forest. 
The  Spaniards,  therefore,  found  deserted  villages  and  barren 
fields,  but  lurking  enemies  at  every  defile.  So  deplorably 
were  they  reduced  by  their  sufferings,  that  at  length  there 
were  not  left  a  sufficient  number  in  health  and  strength  to 
mount  guard  at  night;  and  the  fortress  remained  without 
sentinels.  Such  was  the  desperate  situation  of  this  once  gay 
and  gallant  cavalier,  and  of  his  brilliant  armament,  which  but 
a  few  months  before  had  saUied  from  San  Domingo,  flushed 
with  the  consciousness  of  power  and  the  assurance  that  they 
had  the  means  of  compeUing  the  favours  of  fortune. 

It  is  necessary  to  leave  them  for  a  while,  and  turn  our  atten- 
tion to  other  events  which  will  idtimately  be  found  to  bear 
upon  their  destinies. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


EXPEDITION  OF  THE  BACHELOR   ENCISO  IN  SEARCH  OP  THE  SEAT 
OF  GOVERNMENT   OF   OJEDA. — (1510.) 

In  calling  to  mind  the  narrative  of  the  last  expedition  of 
Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  the  reader  will  doubtless  remember  the 
Bachelor  Martin  Fernandez  de  Enciso,  who  was  inspired  by 
that  adventurous  cavalier  with  an  ill-staiTcd  passion  for 
colonizing,  and  freighted  a  vessel  at  San  Domingo  with  rein- 
forcements and  supplies  for  the  settlement  at  San  Sebastian. 

When  the  Bachelor  was  on  the  eve  of  sailing,  a  number  of 
the  loose  hangers-on  of  the  colony,  and  men  encumbered  with 
debt,  concerted  to  join  his  ship  from  the  coast  and  the  out- 
ports.  Their  creditors,  however,  getting  notice  of  their  inten- 
tion, kept  a  close  watch  upon  every  one  that  went  on  board 


83  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

while'  in  the  harbour,  and  obtained  an  armed  vessel  from  the 
Admiral  Don  Diego  Columbus,  to  escort  the  enterprising  Bach- 
elor clear  of  the  island.  One  man,  however,  contrived  to 
elude  these  precautions,  and  as  he  afterwards  rose  to  great 
unportance,  it  is  proper  to  notice  him  particularly.  His  name 
was  Vasco  Nuiiez  de  Balboa.  He  was  a  native  of  Xeres  de  los 
Caballeros,  and  of  a  noble  though  impoverished  family.  He 
had  been  brought  up  in  the  service  of  Don  Puerto  Carrero, 
Lord  of  Moguer,  and  he  afterwards  enlisted  among  the  adven- 
turers who  accompanied  Rodrigo  de  Bastides  in  his  voyage  of 
discovery.  Peter  Martyr,  in  his  Latin  decades,  speaks  of  him 
by  the  appellation  of  "egregius  digladiator,"  wliich  has  been 
interpreted  by  some  as  a  skilful  swordsman,  by  others  as  an 
adroit  fencing  master.  He  intimates,  also,  that  he  was  a  mere 
soldier  of  fortune,  of  loose  prodigal  habits,  and  the  circum- 
stances under  wliich  he  is  first  introduced  to  us  justify  this 
character.  He  had  fixed  himself  for  a  tune  in  Hispaniola,  and 
undertaken  to  cultivate  a  farm  at  the  town  of  Salvatierra,  on 
the  sea  coast,  but  in  a  httle  time  had  completely  involved  him- 
self in  debt.  The  expedition  of  Enciso  presented  him  with  an 
opportunity  of  escaping  from  his  embarrassments,  and  of  in- 
dulging his  adventurous  habits.  To  elude  the  vigilance  of  his 
creditors  and  of  the  armed  escort,  he  concealed  himself  in  a 
cask,  which  was  conveyed  from  his  farm  on  the  sea  coast  on 
board  of  the  vessel,  as  if  containing  provisions  for  the  voyage. 
When  the  vessel  was  fairly  out  at  sea,  and  abandoned  by  the 
escort,  Vasco  Nufiez  emerged  like  an  apparition  from  his  cask, 
to  the  great  surprise  of  Enciso,  who  had  been  totally  ignorant 
of  the  stratagem.  The  Bachelor  was  indignant  at  being  thus 
outwitted,  even  though  he  gained  a  recruit  by  the  deception ; 
and  in  the  first  ebullition  of  his  wrath  gave  the  fugitive  debtor 
a  very  rough  reception,  threatening  to  put  him  on  shore  on 
the  first  uninhabited  island  they  should  encounter.  Vasco 
Nufiez,  however,  succeeded  in  pacifying  him,  "for  God,"  says 
the  venerable  Las  Casas,  ' '  reserved  him  for  greater  things. "  It 
is  probable  the  Bachelor  beheld  in  him  a  man  well  fitted  for 
his  expedition,  for  Vasco  Nuiiez  was  in  the  prime  and  vigour 
of  his  days,  tall  and  muscular,  seasoned  to  hardships,  and  of 
intrepid  spirit. 

Arriving  at  the  main  land,  they  touched  at  the  fatal  harbour 
of  Carthagena,  the  scene  of  the  sanguinary  conflicts  of  Ojeda 
and  Nicuesa  with  the  natives,  and  of  the  death  of  the  brave  Juan 
de  la  Cosa.     Enciso  was  ignorant  of  those  events,  having  had 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  BE  NICUESA.  83 

no  ti<lings  from  those  adventurers  since  their  departure  from 
San  Domingo ;  without  any  hesitation,  therefore,  he  landed  a 
number  of  his  men  to  repair  his  boat,  which  was  damaged, 
and  to  procure  water.  While  the  men  were  working  upon  the 
boat,  a  multitude  of  Indians  gathered  at  a  distance,  well 
armed,  and  with  menacing  aspect,  sounding  their  shells  and 
brandishing  their  weapons.  The  experience  they  had  had  of 
the  tremendous  powers  of  the  sti-angers,  however,  rendered 
them  cautious  of  attacking,  and  for  three  days  they  hovered 
in  this  manner  about  the  Spaniards,  the  latter  being  obliged  to 
keep  continually  on  the  alert.  At  length  two  of  the  Spaniards 
ventured  one  day  from  the  main  body  to  fill  a  water  cask  from 
the  adjacent  river.  Scarcely  had  they  reached  the  margin  of 
the  stream,  when  eleven  savages  sprang  from  the  thickets  and 
surrounded  them,  bending  their  bows  and  pointing  their 
arrows.  In  tliis  way  they  stood  for  a  moment  or  two  in  fear- 
ful suspense,  the  Indians  refraining  from  discharging  their 
shafts,  but  keeping  them  constantly  pointed  at  their  breasts. 
One  of  the  Spaniards  attempted  to  escape  to  his  comrades, 
who  were  repairing  the  boat,  but  the  other  called  him  back, 
and  understanding  something  of  the  Indinn  tongue,  addressed 
a  few  amicable  words  to  the  savages.  The  latter,  astonished 
at  being  spoken  to  in  their  ov/n  language,  now  relaxed  a  little 
from  their  fierceness,  and  demanded  of  the  strangers  who  they 
were,  who  were  their  leaders,  and  what  they  sought  upon  their 
shores.  The  Spaniard  replied  that  they  were  harmless  people 
who  came  from  other  lands,  and  merely  touched  there  through 
necessity,  and  he  wondered  that  they  should  meet  them  with 
such  hostility ;  he  at  the  same  time  warned  them  to  beware, 
as  there  would  come  many  of  his  countrymen  well  armed,  and 
would  wreak  terrible  vengeance  upon  them  for  any  mischief 
they  might  do.  Wliile  they  were  thus  i')arleying,  the  Bacliolor 
Enciso,  hearing  that  two  of  his  men  were  surrounded  by  tlio 
savages,  sallied  instantly  from  his  ship,  and  hnstened  with  an 
armed  force  to  their  rescue.  As  he  approached,  however,  the 
Spaniard  who  had  held  the  parley  made  him  a  signal  that  the 
natives  were  pacific.  In  fact,  the  latter  had  supposed  that 
this  was  a  new  invasion  of  Ojeda  and  Nicuesa,  and  had  thus 
arrayed  themselves,  if  not  to  take  vengeance  for  past  out- 
rages, at  least  to  defend  their  houses  from  a  second  desolation. 
When  they  were  convinced,  however,  that  these  were  a  totally 
dilforent  band  of  strangers,  and  without  hostile  intentions, 
their  animosity  was  at  an  end ;  they  tlu'cw  by  their  weapons 


84  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERY. 

and  came  forward  with  the  most  confiding  frankness.  During 
the  whole  time  that  the  Spaniards  remained  there,  they 
treated  them  with  the  greatest  friendsliip,  supplying  them 
with  bread  made  from  maize,  with  salted  fish,  and  with  the 
fermented  and  spirituous  beverages  common  along  that  coast. 
Such  was  the  magnanimous  conduct  of  men  who  were  con- 
sidered among  the  most  ferocious  and  warlike  of  these  savage 
nations;  and  who  but  recently  had  beheld  their  shores  in- 
vaded, their  villages  ravaged  and  bm-nt,  and  their  friends  and 
relations  butchered,  without  regard  to  age  or  sex,  by  the 
countrymen  of  these  very  strangers.  When  we  recall  the 
bloody  and  indiscriminate  vengeance  wreaked  upon  this  people 
by  Ojeda  and  his  fohowers  for  their  justifiable  resistance  of 
invasion,  and  compare  it  with  their  placable  and  considerate 
spirit  when  an  opportunity  for  revenge  presented  itself,  we 
confess  we  feel  a  momentary  doubt  whether  the  arbitrary  ap- 
pellation of  savage  is  always  apphed  to  the  right  party. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


THE    BACHELOR    HEARS    UNWELCOME    TIDINGS    OF    HIS    DESTINED 
JURISDICTION. 

Not  long  after  the  arrival  of  Enciso  at  this  eventful  harbour 
he  was  surprised  by  the  circumstance  of  a  brigantine  entering 
and  coming  to  anchor.  To  encounter  an  European  sail  in  these 
almost  unknown  seas,  was  always  a  singular  and  striking  oc- 
currence, but  the  astonishment  of  the  Bachelor  was  mingled 
with  alarm  when,  on  boarding  the  brigantine,  he  found  that  it 
was  manned  by  a  number  of  the  men  who  had  embarked  with 
Ojeda.  His  first  idea  was,  that  they  had  mutinied  against  their 
commander,  and  deserted  with  the  vessel.  The  feelings  of  the 
magistrate  were  aroused  within  him  by  the  suspicion,  and  he 
determined  to  take  his  first  step  as  Alcalde  Mayor,  by  seizing 
them  and  inflicting  on  them  the  severity  of  the  law.  He  al- 
tered his  tone,  however,  on  conversing  with  their  resolute 
cormnander.  This  was  no  other  than  Francisco  Pizarro, 
whom  Ojeda  had  left  as  his  locum  tenens  at  San  Sebastian, 
and  who  showed  the  Bachelor  his  letter  patent,  signed  by  that 
unfortunate  governor.  In  fact,  the  little  brigantine  contained 
the  sad  remnant  of  the  once  vaunted  colony.    After  the  de- 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DTKGO  DK  NICUESA.  8/5 

r>arture  of  Ojeda  in  the  pirate  ship,  liis  followers,  whom  ho 
had  left  beliind  under  the  command  of  PizaiTO,  continued  in 
the  fortress  until  the  stipulated  term  of  fifty  days  had  expired. 
Rot^eiving  no  succour,  and  hearing  no  tidings  of  Ojeda,  they 
then  determined  to  embark  and  sail  for  Hispaniola ;  but  here 
an  unt  hough  t-of  difficulty  pi-esented  itself:  they  were  seventy 
in  number,  and  the  two  brigantines  wliich  had  been  left  with 
'.them  were  incapable  of  taking  so  many.  Tliey  came  to  the 
?f orlom  agreement,  therefore,  to  i-emain  until  famine,  sickness, 
and  the  poisoned  aiTOws  of  the  Indians  should  reduce  their 
number  to  the  capacity  of  the  brigantines.  A  brief  space  of 
time  was  sufficient  for  the  purpose.  They  then  pi-epai-od  for 
the  voyage.  Four  mares,  which  had  been  kept  alive  as  ter- 
rors to  the  Indians,  were  killed  and  salted  for  sea-stores.  Then 
taking:  whatever  other  ai'ticles  of  provision  remained,  thoj^  cm- 
bai'ked  and  made  sail.  One  brigantine  was  commanded  by 
Pizarro,  the  other  by  one  Valenzuela. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far  when,  in  a  storm,  a  sea  struck 
the  cimzy  vessel  of  Valenzuela  "vWth  such  violence  as  to  cause 
it  to  founder  with  all  its  crew.  The  other  brigantine  was  so 
near  that  the  marinei"s  witnessed  the  stixjggles  of  their  di-own- 
ing  comjianions  and  heard  their  cries.  Some  of  the  sailors, 
with  the  common  disposition  to  the  marvellous,  declared  that 
they  had  beheld  a  great  whale,  or  some  other  monster  of  the 
deep,  strike  the  vessel  \vith  its  tail,  and  either  stave  in  its  sides 
or  shatter  the  inidder,  so  as  to  cause  the  shipwi-eck.*  The  sur- 
vi\nng  brigfuitine  then  made  the  best  of  its  way  to  the  harbour 
of  Carthagena,  to  seek  provisions. 

Such  was  the  disastrous  account  rendered  to  the  Bachelor  by 
Pizarro,  of  his  destined  jurisdiction.  Enciso,  however,  was  of 
a  confident  mind  and  sangiiine  temperament,  and  ti-usted  to 
restore  all  things  to  order  and  prosperity  on  his  an'ivaL 


CHAPTER  Vin. 


CRUSADE  OF  THE    BACHELOU    ENCISO  AGAINST    THE    SEPULCHRES 

OF  ZENU. 

The  P>achelor  Enciso,  as  has  been  shown,  was  a  man  of  the 
sword  as  well  as  of  the  robe ;  having  doubtless  imbibed  a  pas- 

*  Herrera,  Hist.  Ind.  d.  i.  1.  vii.  c.  Id 


86  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

sion  for  military  exploit  from  his  intimacy  with  tho  discov- 
erers. Accordingly,  while  at  Carthagcna,  ho  was  visited  by 
an  impulse  of  the  kind,  and  undertook  an  enterprise  that 
would  have  been  worthy  of  his  friend  Ojeda.  He  had  been 
told  by  the  Indians  that  about  twenty -five  leagues  to  the  west 
lay  a  province  called  Zenu,  the  mountains  of  which  abounded 
with  the  finest  gold.  This  was  washed  down  by  torrents  during 
the  rainy  season,  in  such  quantities  that  the  natives  stretched 
nets  across  the  rivers  to  catch  the  largest  particles ;  some  of 
which  were  said  to  be  as  large  as  eggs. 

The  idea  of  taking  gold  in  nets  captivated  the  imagination  of 
the  Bachelor,  and  liis  cupidity  was  still  more  excited  by  further 
accounts  of  this  wealthy  province.  He  was  told  that  Zenu  Avas 
the  general  place  of  sepulture  of  the  Indian  tribes  through- 
out the  country,  whither  they  brought  their  dead,  and  buried 
them,  according  to  their  custom,  decorated  with  their  most 
precious  ornaments. 

It  appeared  to  hini  a  matter  of  course,  therefore,  that  there 
must  be  an  immense  accumulation  of  liches  in  the  Indian 
tombs,  from  the  golden  ornaments  that  had  been  buried  with 
the  dead  through  a  long  series  of  generations.  Fired  with  the 
thought,  he  determined  to  make  a  foray  into  this  province, 
and  to  sack  the  sepulchres !  Neither  did  he  feel  any  compunc- 
tion at  the  idea  of  plundering  the  dead,  considering  the  de- 
ceased as  pagans  and  infidels,  -who  had  forfeited  even  the 
sanctuary  of  the  gi-ave,  by  having  been  buried  according  to 
the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  their  idolatrous  religion. 

Enciso,  accordingly,  made  sail  from  Carthagena  and  landed 
with  his  forces  on  the  coast  of  Zenu.      Here  he  was  promptly 
opposed  by  two  caciques,  at  the  head,  of  a  large  band  of  war- 
riors.    The  Bachelor,  though  he  had  thus  put  on  the  soldier, 
retained  sufficient  of  the  spirit  of  his  former  calling  not  to  enter 
into  quarrel  without  taking  care  to  have  the  law  on  his  side  • 
he  proceeded  i-t^gularly,  therefore,  according  to  the  legal  fovr 
recently  enjoined  by  the  crown.     He  caused  to  be  read  ai' 
interpreted  to  the  caciques  the  same  formula  used  by  Oj'^rl 
expounding  the  nature  of  the  Deity,  the  supremacy  of  the  r\or( 
and  the  right  of  the  Catholic  sovereigns  to  all  these  lands,  b- 
virtue  of  a  grant  from  his  holiness.     The  caciques  listened  to 
the  whole  very  attentively  and  witho'at  interruption,  accord- 
ing to  the  laws  of  Indian  courtesy.     They  then  replied  that,  as 
to  the  assertion  that  there  was  but  one  God,  the  sovereign  of 
heaven  and  earth,  it  ceemed  to  them  good,  and  that  such  must; 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  BE  NICUESA.  87 

be  the  case ;  but  as  to  the  doctrine  that  the  pope  was  regent  of 
the  world  in  place  of  God,  and  that  he  had  made  a  grant  of 
their  country  to  the  Spanish  king,  they  ohsei'ved  that  the  pope 
must  have  been  drunk  to  give  away  what  was  not  his,  and  tlio 
king  mast  have  been  somewhat  mad  to  ask  at  his  hands  what 
belonged  to  others.  They  added,  that  they  were  lords  of  those 
lands  and  needed  no  other  sovereign,  and  if  this  king  should 
come  to  take  possession,  they  would  cut  off  his  head  and  put  it 
on  a  pole ;  that  being  their  mode  of  dealing  with  their  enemies. 
— As  an  illustration  of  this  custom  they  pointed  out  to  Enciso 
the  very  imcomfortable  spectacle  of  a  row  of  grizzly  heads  im- 
paled in  the  neighbourhood. 

Nothing  daunted  either  by  the  reply  or  the  illustration,  the 
Bachelor  menaced  them  with  Avar  and  slavery  as  the  conse- 
quences of  their  refusal  to  believe  and  submit.  They  replied 
by  threatening  to  put  his  head  upon  a  pole  as  a  representative 
of  his  sovereign.  The  Bachelor,  having  furnished  them  with 
the  law,  now  proceeded  to  the  commentary.  He  attacked  the 
Indians,  routed  them,  and  took  one  of  the  caciques  prisoner, 
but  in  the  skii*mish  two  of  his  men  were  shghtly  wounded  "with 
poisoned  arrows,  and  died  raving  with  torment.* 

It  does  not  appear,  however,  that  his  crusade  against  the  se- 
pulchres was  attended  with  any  lucrative  advantage.  Perhaps 
the  experience  he  had  received  of  the  hostility  of  the  natives, 
and  of  the  fatal  effects  of  their  poisoned  arrows,  prevented  his 
penetrating  into  the  land  with  his  scanty  force.  Certain  it  is, 
the  reputed  wealth  of  Zenu,  and  the  tale  of  its  fishery  for  gold 
with  nets,  remained  unascertained  and  uncontradicted,  and 
Avere  the  cause  oi  subsequent  and  disastrous  enterprises.  The 
Bachelor  contented  himself  Avith  his  \nctory,  and  returning  to 
his  ships,  prepared  to  continue  his  A'oyage  for  the  seat  of  gov- 
Oi'nment  established  by  Ojeda  in  the  Gulf  of  Uraba. 


*The  nbovf  anecdote  is  related  by  the  Bachelor  Enciso  himself,  in  a  geographical 
work  entitled  Suma  de  Geot/raphia,  which  he  published  in  Seville,  in  1519.  As  the 
reply  of  the  poor  savages  contains  something  of  natural  logic  we  give  a  part  of  it 
as  reported  by  the  Bachelor.  "  Respotuiieron  me:  que  en  lo  que  dezia  que  no  avia 
siim  im  dios  y  que  este  governaba  el  cielo  y  la  lierra  y  que  erasenor  de  tivilo  que  Ics 
purecia  y  (pie  asi  debia  ser:  pero  que  en  lo  (jue  dezia  que  el  i)ai)a  era  senorde  todo 
el  imiverso  en  lugar  de  dios  y  que  el  avia  fecho  nierced  de  aquella  tieri-a  al  rev  de 
Castilla;  di.xeron  qiie  el  papa  debiera  estar  borachoquondo  lo  hizo  pues  daba  lo  que 
no  era  suyo,  y  que  el  rey  que  pedia  y  to.uttvit  tui  merced  debia  ser  alguu  loco  puea 
pedialo  que  era  de  otros,"  etc. 


88  SPA^^ISII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VEBT. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  BACHELOR  ARRIVES  AT  SAN  •  SEBASTIAN— HIS  DISASTERS 
THERE,  AND  SUBSEQUENT  EXPLOITS  AT  DARIEN. 

It  was  not  without  extreme  difficulty,  and  the  peremptory 
exercise  of  his  authority  as  Alcalde  ]\Iayor,  that  Enciso  pre- 
vailed upon  the  crew  of  Pizarro  to  return  with  him  to  the  fated 
shores  of  San  Sebastian.  He  at  length  arrived  in  sight  of  the 
long-wished-for  seat  of  his  anticipated  power  and  authority; 
but  here  he  was  doomed  hke  his  principal,  Ojeda,  to  meet  with 
nothing  but  misfortune.  On  entering  the  harbour  his  vessel 
struck  on  a  rock  on  the  eastern  point.  The  rapid  currents  and 
tumultuous  waves  rent  it  to  pieces;  the  crew  escaped  with 
great  difficulty  to  the  brigantine  of  Pizai-ro ;  a  little  flour,  cheese, 
and  biscuit,  and  a  small  part  of  the  arms  were  saved,  but  the 
horses,  mares,  swine,  and  all  other  colonial  supplies  were  swept 
away,  and  the  unfortunate  Bachelor  beheld  the  proceeds  of 
several  years  of  prosperous  litigation  swallowed  up  in  an  in- 
stant. 

His  dream  of  place  and  dignity  seemed  equally  on  the  point 
of  vanishing,  for,  on  landing,  he  found  the  fortress  and  its 
adjacent  houses  mere  heaps  of  ruins,  having  been  destroyed 
with  fire  by  the  Indians. 

For  a  few  days  the  Spaniards  maintained  themselves  with 
palm  nuts,  and  with  the  flesh  of  a  kind  of  wild  swine,  of  which 
they  met  with  several  herds.  These  supplies  failing,  the  Bache- 
lor sallied  forth  with  a  hundred  men  to  forage  the  country. 
They  were  waylaid  by  three  Indians,  who  discharged  all  the 
arrows  in  their  quivers  with  incredible  rapidity,  wounded 
several  Spaniards,  and  then  fled  with  a  swictness  that  defied 
pursuit.  The  Spaniards  returned  to  the  harbour  in  dismay. 
All  their  dread  of  the  lurking  savages  and  their  poisoned  wea- 
pons revived,  and  they  insisted  upon  abandoning  a  place  marked 
out  for  disaster. 

The  Bachelor  Enciso  was  himself  disheartened  at  the  situation 
of  this  boasted  capital  of  San  Sebastian ; — but  whif  her  could  he 
go  where  the  same  misfortunes  might  not  attend  him?  In  this 
moment  of  doubt  and  despondency^,  Vasco  Nuilez,  the  same 
absconding  debtor  wlio  had  been  smuggled  on  board  in  the 
cask,   stepped  forward  to    give  counsel.      He  informed    the 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEOO  DE  NICUESA.  SO 

Bachelor  that  several  years  previously  he  had  sailed  along  that 
coast  with  Kodrigo  de  Bastidcs.  They  had  explored  the  whole 
gulf  oi"  Uraba ;  and  he  avoU  remembered  an  Indian  village  situ- 
ated on  the  western  side,  on  the  banks  of  a  river  which  the 
natives  called  Darien.  The  country  around  was  fertile  and 
abundant,  and  was  said  to  possess  mines  of  gold ;  and  the  na- 
tives, though  a  warlike  race,  never  made  use  of  poisoned 
weapons.  He  offered  to  guide  the  Bachelor  to  this  place,  wliere 
they  might  get  a  supply  of  provisions,  and  even  found  their 
colony. 

The  Spaniards  hailed  the  words  of  Vasco  Nunez  as  if  reveal- 
ing a  land  of  promise.  The  Bachelor  adopted  his  ad^ace,  and, 
guided  by  him,  set  sail  for  the  village,  determined  to  eject  the 
inhabitants  and  take  possession  of  it  as  the  seat  of  government. 
Arrived  at  the  river,  he  laiidcd,  put  his  men  in  martial  array,  and 
marched  along  the  banks.  The  place  was  governed  by  a  bravo 
cacique  named  Zemaco.  When  he  heard  of  the  approach  of  the 
Spaniards,  he  sent  off  the  women  and  children  to  a  place  of 
safety,  and  posting  himself  with  five  hundred  of  liis  wariiors  on 
a  height,  prepared  to  give  the  intruders  a  warm  rece])tion.  The 
Bachelor  was  a  discoverer  at  all  points,  pious,  daiing,  and 
rapacious.  On  beholding  this  martial  array  he  recommended 
himself  and  his  followers  to  God,  making  a  vow  in  their  name 
to  "  Our  Lady  of  Antigua,"  whose  image  is  adored  with  great 
devotion  in  Seville,  that  the  first  church  and  town  which  they 
built  should  be  dedicated  to  her,  and  that  they  would  make  a 
pilgrmiage  to  Seville  to  offer  the  spoils  of  the  heathen  at  her 
shrine.  Having  thus  endeavoured  to  propitiate  the  favoia*  of 
Heaven,  and  to  retain  the  H(.)ly  Virgin  in  his  cause,  he  next 
proceeded  to  secure  the  fidelity  of  his  followers.  Doubting 
that  they  might  have  some  hu'king  dread  of  poisoned  arrows, 
ho  exacted  from  them  all  an  oath  that  they  would  not  turn 
their  backs  upon  the  foe,  whatever  might  happen.  Never  did 
warrior  enter  into  battle  with  more  preliminary  fonns  and 
covenants  than  the  Bachelor  Enciso.  All  these  points  being 
arranged,  he  assumed  the  soldier,  and  attacked  the  enemy  with 
such  valour,  that  though  they  made  at  first  a  show  of  fiinx-e 
resistance,  they  were  soon  put  to  flight,  and  many  of  them 
slain.  The  Bachelor  entered  the  villnge  in  triumph,  took  pos- 
session of  it  by  uncpjestionable  right  of  conquest,  and  plundered 
all  the  hamlets  and  houses  of  the  surrounding  country ;  collect- 
ing great  quantities  of  food  and  cotton,  with  bracelets,  anklets, 
plates,  and  other  ornaments  of  gold,  to  the  value  of  ten  thou- 


90  SPAJVISII   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

sand  castellanos.*  His  heart  was  wonderfully  elated  by  his 
victory  and  his  booty ;  liis  followers,  also,  after  so  many  hard- 
sliips  and  disasters,  gave  themselves  up  to  joy  at  this  turn  of 
good  fortune,  and  it  was  unanimously  agreed  that  the  seat  of 
government  should  be  established  in  this  village ;  to  which,  in 
fulfilment  of  his  vow,  Enciso  gave  the  name  of  Santa  Maria  de 
la  Antigua  del  Darien. 


CHAPTER  X. 


THE  BACHELOR   ENCISO  UNDERTAKES   THE   COMMAND— HIS   DOWN- 
FALL. 

The  Bachelor  Enciso  now  entered  upon  the  exercise  of  his 
civil  functions  as  Alcalde  Mayor,  and  Lieutenant  of  the  absent 
governor,  Ojeda.  His  first  edict  was  stern  and  peremptory; 
he  forbade  aU  traflScking  with  the  natives  for  gold,  on  private 
account,  under  pain  of  death.  This  was  in  conformity  to  royal 
command ;  but  it  was  little  palatable  to  men  who  had  engaged 
in  the  enterprise  in  the  hopes  of  enjoying  free  trade,  lawless 
liberty,  and  golden  gains.  They  murmured  among  themselves, 
and  insinuated  that  Enciso  intended  to  reserve  aU  the  profit 
to  himself. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  was  the  first  to  take  advantage  of  the  general 
discontent.  He  had  risen  to  consequence  among  his  feUow- 
adventurers,  from  having  guided  them  to  this  place,  and  from 
his  own  intrinsic  qualities,  being  hardy,  bold,  and  intelKgent, 
and  possessmg  the  random  spirit  and  open-handed  generosity 
common  to  a  soldier  of  fortune,  and  calculated  to  dazzle  and 
delight  the  multitude. 

He  bore  no  good  will  to  the  Bachelor,  recollecting  his  threat 
of  landing  him  on  an  uninhabited  island,  when  he  escaped  in 
a  cask  from  San  Dommgo.  He  sought,  therefore,  to  make  a 
party  against  him,  and  to  unseat  him  from  his  command.  He 
attacked  him  in  his  own  way,  with  legal  weapons,  questioning 
the  legitimacy  of  his  pretensions.  The  boimdary  line,  he  ob- 
served, which  separated  the  jurisdictions  of  Ojeda  and  Nicuesa, 
ran  through  the  centre  of  the  gulf  of  Uraba.  The  village  of 
Darien  lay  on  the  western  side,  which  had  been  allotted  to 

*  Equivalent  to  a  present  sum  of  53.209  dollai-s. 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  NICUESA.  01 

Nicuesa.  Enciso,  therefore,  as  Alcalde  Mayor  and  Lieutenant 
ol"  Ojcda,  could  have  uo  jurisdiction  here,  and  his  assumed 
authority  was  a  sheer  usurpation. 

The  iSiJaniards,  already  incensed  at  the  fiscal  regulations  of 
lilnciso,  were  easily  convinced ;  so  with  one  accord  they  refused 
rJ. I'giance  to  him;  and  the  luifortunate  Bachelor  found  the 
Vhair  of  authority  to  which  ho  had  so  fondly  and  anxiously 
aspired,  suddenly  wrested  fi-om  under  him,  hefore  he  had  well 
time  to  take  his  seat. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

PEEPLEXITIES  AT  THE  COLONY — ARRIVAL  OF  C0L3IENARES. 

To  depose  the  Bachelor  had  been  an  easy  matter,  for  most 
men  are  ready  to  assist  in  pulling  down ;  but  to  choose  a  suc- 
cessor was  a  task  of  far  more  difficulty.  The  people  at  first 
agreed  to  elect  mere  civil  magistrates,  and  accordingly 
appointed  Vasco  Nunez  and  one  Zamudio  as  alcaldes,  together 
with  a  cavalier  of  some  merit  of  the  name  of  Valdivia,  as 
rcgidor.  They  soon,  however,  became  dissatisfied  with  this 
ai'rangement,  and  it  was  generally  considered  advisable  to  vest 
the  authoi-ity  in  one  pereon.  Who  this  person  should  be,  was 
now  the  question.  Some  proposed  Nicucsa,  as  they  were 
within  his  province ;  othere  were  strenuous  for  Vasco  Nuficz. 
A  vic)lent  dispute  ensued,  which  was  carried  on  with  such  heat 
and  o]>stinacy.  that  many,  anxious  for  a  quiet  life,  declared  it 
would  be  better  to  reinstate  Enciso  until  the  pleasure  of  the 
king  should  be  known. 

In  tlie  height  of  these  factious  altercations  the  S])nniards 
were  aroused  one  day  by  the  thundering  of  cannon  irom  the 
opposite  side  of  the  gulf,  and  beheld  colunuis  of  smoke  rising 
from  the  hills.  Astonished  at  these  signals  of  civilized  man  on 
these  wild  shores,  they  rej)lied  in  the  same  manner,  and  in  a 
short  time  two  ships  were  seen  standing  across  the  gulf.  They 
proved  to  be  an  armaiHent  commanded  by  one  Rodrigo  de 
Colmenares,  and  were  in  search  of  Nicucsa  ^\•ith  supi»lies. 
They  had  met  with  the  usual  luck  of  adventurers  on  tliis  dis- 
astrous coast,  storms  at  sea  and  savage  foes  on  shore,  and 
many  of  their  number  had  fallen  by  poisoned  arrows.  Col- 
menares  had  touched  at  San  Sebastian  to  learn  tidings  of 


92  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

Nicuesa;  but,  finding  the  fortress  in  ruins,  had  made  signals, 
in  hopes  of  being  heard  by  the  Spaniards,  should  they  be  yet 
lingering  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  arrival  of  Colmenares  caused  a  temporary  suspension 
of  the  feuds  of  the  colonists.  He  distributed  provisions  among 
them  and  gained  their  hearts.  Then,  representing  the  legiti- 
mate right  of  Nicuesa  to  the  command  of  all  that  part  of  the 
coast  as  a  governor  appointed  by  the  king,  he  persuaded  the 
greater  part  of  the  people  to  acknowledge  his  authority.  It 
was  generally  agreed,  therefore,  that  he  should  cruise  along 
the  coast  in  search  of  Nicuesa,  and  that  Diego  de  Albitez,  and 
an  active  member  of  the  law,  called  the  Bachelor  Corral, 
should  accompany  him  as  ambassadors,  to  invite  that  cavalier 
to  come  and  assume  the  government  of  Darien. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

C0L3IENAEES  GOES  IN  QUEST   OF  NIOCTESA. 

RoDRiGO  DE  Colmenares  proceeded  along  the  coast  to  the 
westward,  looking  into  every  bay  and  harbour,  but  for  a  long 
time  without  success.  At  length  one  day  he  discovered  a  brig- 
antine  at  a  small  island  in  the  sea.  On  making  up  to  it,  he 
found  that  it  was  part  of  the  armament  of  Nicuesa,  and  had 
been  sent  out  by  him  to  forage  for  provisions.  By  this  vessel 
he  was  piloted  to  the  port  of  Nombre  de  Dios,  the  nominal 
capital  of  the  unfortunate  governor,  but  which  was  so  sur- 
rounded and  overshadowed  by  forests,  that  he  might  have 
passed  by  without  noticing  it. 

The  arrival  of  Colmenares  was  welcomed  with  transports 
and  tears  of  joy.  It  was  scarcely  possible  for  him  to  recognize 
the  once  buoyant  and  brilliant  Nicuesa  in  the  squalid  and  de- 
jected man  before  him.  He  was  hving  in  the  most  abject 
misery.  Of  aU  his  once  gaUant  and  powerful  band  of  fol- 
lowers, biit  sixty  men  remained,  and  those  so  feeble,  yellow, 
emaciated,  and  woe-begone,  that  it  was  piteous  to  behold 
them.* 

*  The  harbour  of  Nombre  de  Dios  continued  for  along  time  to  present  traces  of 
the  sufferings  of  the  Spaniards.  We  are  told  by  Herrera,  that  several  years  after 
the  time  here  mentioned,  a  band  of  eighty  Spanish  soldiers,  commanded  bj'  Gon- 
zalode  Badajos,  arrived  at  the  harbour  with  an  intention  of  penetrating  into  the 
jnterior.    They  found  there  the  ruined  fort  of  Nicuesa,  together  with  skulls  and 


THE   VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  MCUESA.  93 

Colmenares  distributed  food  among  them,  and  told  them 
that  he  ]:iad  oome  to  convey  them  tf)  a  plenteous  country,  and 
one  rich  in  gold.  When  Nicuesa  heard  of  the  settlement  at 
Darien,  and  that  the  inhabitants  had  sent  for  him  to  come  and 
govern  them,  he  was  as  a  man  suddenly  revived  from  deatli. 
All  tne  spirit  and  munificence  of  the  cavalier  again  awakened 
in  him.  He  gave  a  kind  of  banquet  that  very  day  to  Colme- 
nares and  the  ambassadors,  from  the  provisions  brought  in  the 
ship.  He  presided  at  his  table  with  his  former  hilarity,  and 
displayed  a  feat  of  his  ancient  office  as  royal  carver,  by  hold- 
ing up  a  fowl  in  the  air  and  dissecting  it  with  wonderful 
adroitness. 

Well  would  it  have  been  for  Nicuesa  haft  the  sudden  buoy- 
ancy of  his  feehngs  carried  him  no  further,  but  adversity  had 
not  taught  him  prudence.  In  conversing  with  the  envoys 
about  the  colony  of  Darien,  he  already  assumed  the  tone  of 
governor,  and  began  to  disclose  the  kind  of  policy  with  which 
he  intended  to  rule.  When  he  heard  that  great  quantities  of 
gold  had  been  collected  and  retained  by  private  individuals, 
his  ire  was  kindled.  He  vowed  to  make  them  refimd  it,  and 
even  talked  of  punishing  them  for  trespassing  upon  the  privi- 
leges and  monopolies  of  the  crown.  This  was  the  very  error 
that  had  unseated  the  Bachelor  Enciso  from  his  government, 
and  it  was  a  strong  measure  for  one  to  threaten  who  as  yet  was 
governor  but  in  expectation.  The  menace  was  not  lost  upon 
the  watchful  ambassadors  Diego  do  Albitez  and  the  Bachelor 
Corral.  They  were  put  still  more  on  the  alert  by  a  conversa- 
tion wliich  they  held  that  very  evening  with  Lope  de  Olano, 
who  was  still  detained  a  prisoner  for  his  desertion,  but  who 
found  means  to  commune  with  the  envoys,  and  to  prejudice 
them  against  his  unsuspecting  commander.  "Take  warning," 
said  he,  "by  my  treatment.  I  sent  relief  to  Nicuesa  and 
rescued  him  from  death  when  starving  on  a  desert  island. 
Behold  my  recompense.  He  repays  me  with  imprisonment 
and  chains.  Such  is  the  gratitude  the  people  of  Darien  may 
look  for  at  his  hands !" 

The  subtle  Bachelor  Corral  and  his  fellow  envoy  laid  these 
mattei'S  to  heart,  and  took  their  measures  accordingly.     They 

bones,  and  crosses  erected  on  heaps  of  stones,  dismal  mementos  of  liis  followers 
who  had  perished  of  hunger;  the  sight  of  whicli  struck  such  horror  and  dismay  into 
the  hearts  of  the  soldiers  tliat  they  would  have  abandoned  their  enterprise,  had  not 
their  intrepid  captain  immfdiatelj'  sent  away  the  ships,  and  thus  deprived  them  01 
the  means  of  retreating.— iZerrera,  d.  xi.  1.  i. 


94  BPANISII  VOTAGEH  OF  DISCOVERY. 

hurried  their  departure  before  Nicuesa,  and  setting  all  sail  on 
their  caravel,  hastened  back  to  Darien.  The  moment  they 
arrived  they  STunmoned  a  meeting  of  the  principal  inhabitants. 
"  A  blessed  change  we  have  made,"  said  they,  "in  summoning 
this  Diego  de  Nicuesa  to  the  command !  We  have  called  in  tha 
stork  to  take  the  rule,  who  will  not  rest  satisfied  until  he  has 
devoured  us."  They  then  related,  with  the  usual  exaggeration, 
the  unguarded  threats  that  had  fallen  from  Nicuesa,  and 
instanced  his  treatment  of  Olano  as  a  proof  of  a  tyrannous  and 
ungrateful  disposition. 

The  words  of  the  subtle  Bachelor  Corral  and  his  associate 
produced  a  violent  agitation  among  the  people,  especially 
among  those  who  had  amassed  treasures  which  Avould  have  to 
be  refunded.  Nicuesa,  too,  by  a  transaction  which  almost  de- 
stroys sympathy  in  his  favour,  gave  time  for  their  passions  to 
ferment.  On  his  way  to  Darien  he  stopped  for  several  days 
among  a  group  of  small  islands,  for  the  purpose  of  capturing 
Indians  to  be  sold  as  slaves.  While  committing  these  outrages 
against  humanity,  he  sent  forwai'd  Juan  de  Cayzedo  in  a  boat 
to  announce  his  coming.  His  messenger  had  a  private  pique 
against  him,  and  played  him  false.  He  assured  the  people  of 
Darien  that  all  they  had  been  told  by  their  envoys  concerning 
the  tyranny  and  ingratitude  of  Nicuesa  was  true.  That  he 
treated  his  followers  with  wanton  severity ;  that  he  took  from 
them  all  they  won  in  battle,  saying,  that  the  spoils  wore  his 
rightful  property ;  and  that  it  was  his  intention  to  treat  the 
people  of  Darien  in  the  same  mamier.  ' '  What  folly  is  it  in 
you, "added  he,  "being  your  own  masters,  and  in  such  free 
condition,  to  send  for  a  tyrant  to  rule  over  you!" 

The  people  of  Darien  were  convinced  by  this  concurring  tes- 
timony, and  confounded  by  the  overwhelming  evil  thej^  had 
thus  invoked  upon  their  heads.  They  had  deposed  Enciso  for 
his  severity,  and  they  had  thrown  themselves  into  the  power 
of  one  who  threatened  to  be  ten  times  more  severe !  Vasco 
Nunez  de  Balboa  observed  their  perplexity  and  consternation. 
He  drew  them  one  by  one  apart,  and  conversed  with  them  in 
private.  "You  are  cast  down  in  heart,"  said  he,  "and  so  you 
might  well  be,  were  the  evil  beyond  all  cure.  But  do  not 
despair ;  there  is  an  effectual  relief,  and  you  hold  it  in  your 
hands.  Tf  you  have  conmaitted  an  error  in  inviting  Nicuesa  to 
Darien,  it  is  easily  remedied  by  not  receiving  liim  when  he 
comes !"  The  obviousness  and  simplicity  of  the  remedy  struck 
every  mind,  and  it  was  unanimously  adopted. 


THE.  VOYAGE  OF  DIEGO  DE  NICUESA  95 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

CATASTROPHE  OF  THE  UNFORTUNATE  NICUESA. 

Wnn^  this  hostile  plot  was  maturing  at  Darien,  the  unsus- 
pecting Nicuesa  pursued  his  voyage  leisurely  and  serenely,  and 
arrived  in  safety  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  On  approaching 
the  shore  he  beheld  a  multitude,  headed  by  Vasco  Nuiiez, 
waiting,  as  he  supposed  to  receive  him  with  all  due  honour. 
He  was  about  to  land,  when  the  pubhc  procurator,  or  attorney, 
called  to  him  with  a  loud  voice,  warning  him  not  to  disembark, 
but  advising  him  to  return  with  all  speed  to  his  govermnent  at 
Nombre  de  Dios. 

Nicuesa  remained  for  a  moment  as  if  thunder-struck  by  so 
unlooked-for  a  salutation.  When  he  recovered  his  self-posses- 
sion he  reminded  them  that  he  had  come  at  their  own  request ; 
he  entreated,  therefore,  that  he  might  be  allowed  to  land  and 
have  an  explanation,  after  which  he  would  be  ready  to  act  as 
they  thought  proper.  His  entreaties  were  vain:  they  only 
provoked  insolent  replies,  and  threats  of  violence  should  he 
venture  to  put  foot  on  shore.  Night  coming  on,  therefore,  he 
was  obliged  to  stand  out  to  sea,  but  returned  the  next  morn- 
ing, hoping  to  find  this  capricious  people  in  a  different  mood. 

There  did,  indeed,  appear  to  be  a  favourable  change,  for  he 
was  now  invited  to  land.  It  was  a  mere  stratagem  to  get  him 
in  their  power,  for  no  sooner  did  he  set  foot  on  shore  than  the 
multitude  rushed  forward  to  seize  him.  Among  his  many 
bodUy  endowments,  Nicuesa  was  noted  for  swiftness  of  foot. 
He  now  trusted  to  it  for  safety,  and,  throwing  off  the  dignity 
of  governor,  fled  for  his  life  along  the  shore,  pursued  by  the 
rabble.  He  soon  distanced  his  pursuers  and  took  refuge  in  the 
woods. 

Vasco  Nmiez  de  Balboa,  who  was  himself  a  man  of  birth, 
seeing  this  high-bred  cavalier  reduced  to  such  extremity,  and 
at  the  mercy  of  a  violent  rabble,  repented  of  what  he  had  done. 
He  had  not  anticipated  such  popular  fury,  and  endeavoured, 
though  too  late,  to  allay  the  tempest  he  had  raised.  He  suc- 
ceeded ha  preventing  the  people  from  pursuing  Nicuesa  into  tho 
forest,  and  then  endeavoured  to  mollify  the  vindictive  rage  of 
his  fellow  Alcalde,  Zamudio,  whose  hostility  was  quickened  by 
the  dread  of  losing  his  office,  should  the  new  governor  be  re 
ceived ;  and  who  was  supported  in  his  boisterous  conduct  by 


96  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

the  natural  love  of  the  multitude  for  what  are  called  "  strong 
measures."  Nicuesa  now  held  a  parley  with  the  populace, 
through  the  mediation  of  Vasco  Nunez.  He  begged  that,  if 
they  would  not  acknowledge  him  as  governor,  they  would  at 
least  admit  him  as  a  companion.  Tliis  they  refused,  saying, 
that  if  they  admitted  him  in  one  capacity,  he  would  end  by  at- 
taining to  the  other.  He  then  implored,  that  if  he  could  be 
admitted  on  no  other  terms,  they  would  treat  him  as  a  prisoner, 
and  put  him  in  irons,  for  he  would  rather  die  among  them  than 
return  to  Nombre  de  Dios,  to  perish  of  famine,  or  by  the  arrows 
of  the  Indians. 

It  was  in  vain  that  A'^asco  Nunez  exerted  his  eloquence  to 
obtain  some  grace  for  this  unhappy  cavalier.  His  voice  was 
drowned  by  the  vociferations  of  the  multitude.  Among  these 
was  a  noisy  swaggering  fellow  named  Francisco  Benitez,  a 
great  talker  and  jester,  who  took  a  vulgar  triumph  in  the  dis- 
tresses of  a  cavalier,  and  answered  every  plea  in  his  behalf 
with  scoffs  and  jeers.  He  was  an  adherent  of  the  Alcalde  Za- 
mudio,  and  under  his  patronage  felt  emboldened  to  bluster. 
His  voice  was  even  uppermost  in  the  general  clamour,  iintil,  to 
the  expostulations  of  Vasco  Nuilez,  ho  replied  by  merely  bawl- 
ing -with  great  vociferation,  "No,  no,  no! — we  will  receive  no 
such  a  fellow  among  us  as  Nicuesa !"  The  patience  of  Vasco 
Nuiiez  was  exhausted ;  he  availed  himself  of  his  authority  as 
Alcade,  and  suddenly,  before  his  fellow  magistrate  could  inter- 
fere, ordered  the  brawling  ruffian  to  be  rewarded  with  a  hun- 
dred lashes,  which  were  taled  out  roundly  to  him  upon  the 
shoulders.* 

Seeing  that  the  fury  of  the  populace  was  not  to  be  pacified, 
he  sent  word  to  Nicuesa  to  retire  to  his  brigantine,  and  not  to 
venture  on  shore  until  advised  hj  him  to  do  so.  The  counsel 
was  fruitless.  Nicuesa,  above  deceit  himself,  suspected  it  not 
in  others.  He  retired  to  his  brigantine,  it  is  true,  but  suffered 
himself  to  be  inveigled  on  shore  by  a  deputation  professing  to 
come  on  the  part  of  the  public,  with  offers  to  reinstate  him  as 
governor.  He  had  scarcely  landed  when  he  was  set  upon  by 
an  armed  band,  headed  by  the  base-minded  Zamudio,  who 
seized  him  and  compelled  him,  by  menaces  of  death,  to  swear 
that  he  would  immediately  depart,  and  make  no  delay  in 
any  place  until  he  had  presented  himself  before  the  king  and 
council  in  Castile. 

Las  Casas,  Hist.  Ind.  1.  ii  c.  68. 


THE  VOYAGI-:  OF  DIEGO  BE  MCUESA.  97 

It  was  in  vain  tba^'  Xicuesa  reniindod  them  that  he  was  gov- 
ernor of  that  territory  and  representative  of  the  Icing,  and 
that  they  were  guilty  of  treason  in  thus  opposing  hini ;  it  was 
in  vain  that  he  appealed  to  their  humanity,  or  protested  be- 
fore God  against  their  cruelty  and  persecution.  The  people 
were  in  that  state  of  tumult  when  they  are  apt  to  add  cruelty 
to  injustice.  Not  content  with  expelling  the  discarded  gov- 
ernor from  their  shores,  they  allotted  liim  the  worst  vessel  in 
the  harbour ;  an  old  crazy  brigantine  totally  unfit  to  encoun- 
ter the  perils  and  labours  of  the  sea. 

Seventeen  followers  embarked  with  him ;  some  being  of  his 
household  and  attached  to  his  person;  the  rest  were  volun- 
teoi-s  who  accompanied  him  out  of  respect  and  sympathy. 
The  frail  bark  set  sail  on  the  first  of  March,  1511,  and  steered 
across  the  Caribbean  sea  for  the  island  of  Hispaniola,  but  was 
never  seen  or  heard  of  more ! 

Various  attempts  have  been  made  to  penetrate  the  mystery 
that  covers  the  fate  of  the  brigantine  and  its  crew,  A  rumour 
prevailed  some  years  afterwards  that  several  Spaniards,  wan- 
dering along  the  shore  of  Cuba,  found  the  following  inscription 
cai'ved  on  a  tree : 

Aqui  fenecift  el  desdicado  Nionefwi. 
(Here  perished  the  unfortunate  Nicuesa.) 

Hence  it  was  inferred  that  he  and  his  followere  had  landed 
there,  and  been  massacred  by  the  Indians.  Las  Casas,  how- 
ever, discredits  this  story.  He  accompamed  the  first  Span- 
iards who  took  possession  of  Cuba,  and  heard  nothing  of  the 
fact,  as  he  most  probably  would  have  done  had  it  really  oc- 
curred. He  imagines,  rather,  that  the  crazy  bark  was  swal- 
lowed up  by  the  storms  and  currents  of  the  Caribbean  sea, 
or  that  the  crow  perished  with  himger  and  tlnrst,  having 
been  but  scantily  supplied  with  provisions.  The  good  old  bishop 
adds,  with  the  superstitious  feeling  prevalent  in  that  age,  that 
a  short  time  before  Nicuesa  sailed  from  Spain  on  liis  expedi- 
tion, an  astrologer  wanied  him  not  to  depart  on  the  day  he  had 
appointed,  or  under  a  certain  sign;  the  cavalier  replied,  how- 
ever, that  he  had  less  confidence  in  the  stare  than  in  God  who 
made  them.  "I  recollect,  moreover,"  adds  Las  Casas,  ''that 
about  this  tunc  a  comet  was  seen  over  this  island  of  Hispaniola, 
which,  it  I  do  not  forget,  was  in  the  shape  of  a  sword ;  and  it 
was  said  that  a  monk  warned  several  of  those  about  to  embark 


98  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

with  Nicuesa,  to  avoid  that  captain,  for  the  heavens  foretold 
he  was  destined  to  be  lost.  The  same,  however, "  he  concludes, 
"might  be  said  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  who  sailed  at  the  same 
time,  yet  returned  to  San  Domingo  and  died  in  his  bed."  * 


♦  Las  Casas,  ut  sup,  c.  63. 


VASCO  NUS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  99 


VASCO  nuxp:z  de  balboa, 

DISCOVERER  OF  THE  RACIFIC  OCEAN. 


CHAPTER  I. 

FACTIONS  AT  DARIEN— VASCO  NUNEZ  ELECTED  TO  THE  COMMAND. 

We  have  traced  the  disastrous  fortunes  of  Alonzo  de  Ojoda 
and  Diego  de  Nicucsa ;  we  have  now  to  record  the  story  of 
Vasco  Isuiiez  -ie  Balboa,  an  adventurer  equally  daring,  far 
more  renowned,  and  not  less  unfortunate,  who,  in  a  manner, 
rose  upon  their  ruins. 

"When  the  bark  disappeared  from  view  which  bore  the  ill- 
starred  Nicuesa  from  the  shores  of  Darien,  the  community 
relapsed  into  factions,  as  to  who  should  have  the  nile.  The 
Bachelor  Enciso  insisted  upon  his  claims  as  paramount,  but  he 
met  with  a  powerful  opponent  in  Vasco  Nunez,  who  had  be- 
come a  great  favourite  with  the  people,  from  his  frank  and 
fearless  character,  and  his  winning  affability.  In  fact,  he  was 
peculiarly  calculated  to  manage  the  fiery  and  factious,  yet 
generous  and  susceptible  natm-e  of  his  countrymen;  for  the 
Spaniards,  though  proud  and  resentful,  and  imjiatient  of  indig- 
nity or  restraint,  are  easily  dazzled  by  valour,  and  won  by 
courtesy  and  kindness.  Vasco  Nuiiez  had  the  external  re- 
quisite's also  to  captivate  the  multitude.  He  was  now  about 
thirty-five  years  of  age;  tall,  avcU  formed,  and  vigorous,  Avith 
reddisli  hair,  and  an  open  prepossessing  countenance.  His 
oflice  of  Alcalde,  while  it  clothed  him  with  influence  and  im- 
portance, tempered  those  irregmar  and  dissolute  habits  ho 
might  have  mdulged  while  a  more  soldier  of  fortune;  and  his 
superior  talent  soon  gave  aim  a  complete  ascendancy  over  his 
official  colleague  Zamudio.  He  was  thus  enabled  to  set  on  foot 
a  vigorous  opposition  to  Enciso.  Still  he  proceeded  according 
to  the  forms  of  law,  and  summoned  the  Be.  chelor  to  trial,  on 


100  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

the  charge  of  usurping  the  powers  of  Alcalde  Mayor,  on  the 
mere  appointment  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  whose  jurisdiction  did 
not  extend  to  this  province. 

Enciso  was  an  able  lawyer,  and  pleaded  his  cause  skilfully; 
but  his  claims  were,  in  fact,  fallacious,  and,  had  they  not  been 
so,  he  had  to  deal  with  men  who  cared  little  for  law,  who  had 
been  irritated  by  Ms  legal  exactions,  and  who  were  disposed  to 
be  governed  by  a  man  of  the  sword  rather  than  of  the  robe. 
Ho  v/as  readily  found  gaiilty,  therefore,  and  thrown  into 
prison,  and  all  his  property  was  confiscated.  This  was  a  vio- 
lent verdict,  and  rashly  executed ;  but  justice  seemed  to  grow 
fierce  and  wild  when  transplanted  to  the  wilderness  of  the  new 
world.  Still  there  is  no  place  where  wrong  can  be  committed 
with  impunity ;  the  oppression  of  the  Bachelor  Enciso,  though 
exercised  under  the  forms  of  law,  and  in  a  region  remote  from 
the  pale  of  civilized  life,  redounded  to  the  eventual  injury  of 
Vasco  Nuiiez,  and  contributed  to  blast  the  fruits  of  that  ambi- 
tion it  was  intended  to  promote. 

The  fortimcs  of  the  enterprising  Bachelor  had  indeed  run 
strangely  counter  to  the  prospects  with  which  he  had  embarked 
at  San  Domingo;  he  had  become  a  culprit  at  the  bar  instead  of 
a  judge  upon  the  bench ;  and  now  was  left  to  ruminate  in  a 
prison  on  the  failure  of  his  late  attempt  at  general  command. 
His  friends,  however,  interceded  vfarmly  in  his  behalf,  and  at 
length  obtained  his  release  from  confinement,  and  permission 
for  him  to  return  to  Spain.  Vasco  Nuiiez  foresaw  that  the 
lawyer  would  be  apt  to  plead  his  cause  more  effectually  at  the 
court  of  Castile  than  he  had  done  before  the  partial  and  pre- 
judiced tribunal  of  Darien.  He  prevailed  upon  his  fellow 
Alcalde  Zamudio,  therefore,  who  was  implicated  with  him  in 
the  late  transactions,  to  return  to  Spain  in  the  same  vessel 
with  the  Bachelor,  so  as  to  be  on  the  spot  to  answer  his 
«hai"ges,  and  to  give  a  favourable  report  of  the  case.  He  was 
also  instructed  to  set  forth  the  services  of  Vasco  Nunez,  both 
in  guiding  the  colonists  to  this  place,  and  in  managing  the 
affairs  of  the  settlement ;  and  to  dwell  with  emphasis  on  the 
symptom.s  of  great  riches  in  the  surrounding  country. 

The  Bachelor  and  the  Alcalde  embarked  in  a  small  caravel ; 
and,  as  it  was  to  toucli  at  Hispaniola,  Vasco  Nuiiez  sent  his 
confidential  friend,  the  Eegidor  Valdivia,  to  that  island  to  ob- 
tain provisions  and  recruits.  He  secretly  put  into  his  hands  a 
round  sum.  of  gold  as  a  present  to  Miguel  de  Pasamonte,  the 
royal  treasurer  of  Hi^paniola,  whom  he  Lne\7  to  have  great 


VASCO  yuS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  101 

credit  Avitli  the  king,  and  to  be  invested  with  extensive  powers, 
ci'tiving  at  the  sain«  time  his  protection  in  the  new  world  and 
his  influence  at  court. 

Having  talceu  these  shrewd  precautions,  Vasco  Nuiiez  saw 
the  caravel  depart  without  dismay,  though  bearing  to  Spain 
his  most  dangerous  enemy;  he  consoled  himself,  moreover, 
Avith  the  reflection  that  it  likewise  bore  off  his  fellow  Alcalde, 
Zamudio,  and  thus  left  him  in  sole  command  of  the  colony. 


CHAPTER  II. 


EXPEDITION  TO  COYBA— VASCO  NUNEZ   RECEIVES   THE  DAUGHTER 
OF  A  CACIQUE  AS  HOSTAGE. 

Vasco  Nunez  now  exerted  himself  to  prove  his  capacity  for 
the  government  to  which  he  had  aspired ;  and  as  he  knew  that 
no  proof  was  more  convincing  to  King  Ferdinand  than  ample 
remittances,  and  that  gold  covered  all  sins  in  the  new  world, 
his  first  object  was  to  discover  those  parts  of  the  country  which 
most  abounded  in  the  precious  metals.  Hearing  exaggerated 
reports  of  the  riches  of  a  province  about  thirty  leagues  distant, 
called  Coyba,  he  sent  Francisco  Pizarro  with  six  men  to  ex- 
plore it. 

The  cacique  Zemaco,  the  native  lord  of  Darien,  who  cher- 
ished a  bitter  hostility  against  the  European  intnjders,  and 
hovered  with  his  warriors  about  the  settlement,  received  no- 
tice of  this  detachment,  from  hie  spies,  and  planted  himself  in 
ambush  to  waylay  and  destroy  it.  The  Spaniards  had  scarcely 
proceeded  three  leagues  along  the  course  of  the  river  when  a 
host  of  savages  burst  upon  them  from  the  surrounding  thiek- 
ets,  uttering  frightful  yells,  and  discharging  showers  of  stones 
and  arrows.  Pizarro  and  his  men,  though  sorely  bruised  nnd 
wounded,  rushed  into  the  thickest  of  the  foe,  slew  many, 
wounded  more,  and  put  the  rest  to  flight;  but.  fearing  another 
assault,  they  made  a  precipitate  retreat,  leaving  one  of  their 
companions,  Francisco  Hernan,  disabled  on  the  field.  They 
arrived  at  the  settlement  crippled  and  bleeding;  but  when 
Vasco  Nuiiez  heard  the  particulars  of  the  action,  his  anger 
was  roused  against  Pizarro,  and  he  ordered  him,  though 
wounded,  to    return    immediately  and  recover  the  disable^ 


102  SPANISH  VOYAO/£S  OF  DISCO VEEY. 

man.  "Lot  it  not  be  said,  for  shame,"  said  he,  "that  Span- 
iards fled  before  savages,  and  left  a  comrade  in  their  hands !" 
Pizarro  felt  the  rebuke,  returned  to  the  scene  of  combat  and 
brought  off  Francisco  Hernan  in  safety. 

■  Nothing  having  been  heard  of  Nicuesa  since  his  departure, 
Vasco  Nunez  despatched  two  brigantines  for  those  followers  of 
that  unfortunate  adventvu-er  who  had  remained  at  Nombre  do 
Dios.  They  were  overjoyed  at  being  rescued  from  then-  for- 
lorn situation,  and  conveyed  to  a  settlement  where  there  was 
some  prospect  of  comfortable  subsistence.  The  brigantines,  in 
coasting  the  shores  of  the  Isthmus,  picked  up  two  Spaniards, 
clad  in  painted  skins  and  looking  as  wild  as  the  native  In- 
dians. Tliese  men,  to  escape  some  punishment,  had  fled  from 
the  ship  of  Nicuesa  about  a  year  and  a  half  before,  and  had 
taken  refuge  with  Careta,  the  cacique  of  Coyba.  The  savage 
chieftain  had  treated  them  with  hospitable  Idndness;  their 
first  return  for  which,  now  that  they  foimd  themselves  safe 
among  their  countrymen,  was  to  advise  the  latter  to  invade 
the  cacique  in  his  dwelling,  where  they  assured  them  they 
would  find  immense  booty.  Finding  their  suggestion  listened 
to,  one  of  them  proceeded  to  Darien,  to  serve  as  a  guide  to  any 
expedition  that  might  be  set  on  foot ;  the  other  returned  to  the 
cacique,  to  assist  in  betraying  him. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  was  elated  by  the  intelligence  received  through 
these  vagabonds  of  the  wilderness.  He  chose  a  hundred  and 
thu"ty  well  armed  and  resolute  men,  and  set  off  for  Coyba,  the 
dominions  of  Careta.  The  cacique  received  the  Spaniards  in  his 
mansion  with  the  accustomed  hospitality  of  a  savage,  setting 
before  them  meat  and  drink,  and  whatever  his  house  afforded ; 
butlwhen  Vasco  Nuiiez  asked  for  a  large  supply  of  provisions 
for  the  colony,  he  declared  that  he  had  none  to  spare,  his 
people  having  been  prevented  from  cultivating  the  soil  by  a 
war  which  he  was  waging  with  the  neighbouring  cacique  of 
Ponca.  The  Spanish  traitor,  Avho  had  remained  to  betraj^  his 
benefactor,  now  took  Vasco  Nunez  aside,  and  assured  him  that 
the  cacique  had  an  abundant  hoard  of  provisions  in  secret ;  he 
advised  him,  however,  to  seem  to  believe  his  words,  and  to 
make  a  pretended  departure  for  Darien  with  his  troops,  but  to 
return  in  the  night  and  take  the  village  by  surprise.  Vasco 
Ninlez  adopted  the  advice  of  the  traitor.  He  took  a  cordial  leave 
of  Careta,  and  set  off  for  the  settlement.  In  the  dead  of  the 
night,  however,  when  the  savages  were  buried  in  deep  sleep, 
Vasco  Nuiiez  led  his  men  into  the  midst  of  the  village,  and, 


VASCO   ^UKEZ  DK  BALBOA.  103 

before  the  inhabitants  could  rouse  them  selves  to  resistance, 
made  captives  of  Careta,  his  wives,  and  children,  and  many  of 
his  people.  He  discovered  also  the  hoard  of  provisions,  with 
which  he  loaded  two  brip:antines,  and  returned  with  his  booty 
and  his  captives  to  Daricn. 

When  the  unfortunate  caciciue  beheld  liis  family  in  chains, 
and  in  the  hands  of  strangers,  his  heart  was  wrung  with 
despair;  "  What  have  I  done  to  thee,"  said  he  to  Vasco  Nunez, 
"that  thou  shouldst  treat  me  thus  cruelly?  None  of  thy 
people  ever  came  to  my  land  that  wei-e  not  fed  and  sheltered 
and  treated  with  loving-kindness.  When  thou  camest  to  my 
dwelling,  did  I  meet  thee  with  a  javelin  in  my  hand?  Did  I 
not  set  meat  and  drink  before  thee  and  welcome  thee  as  a 
brother?  Set  me  free,  therefore,  with  my  family  and  people, 
and  we  will  remain  thy  friends.  We  will  supply  thee  with 
provisions,  aud  reveal  to  thee  the  riches  of  the  land.  Dost  thou 
doubt  my  faith?  Behold  my  daughter,  I  give  her  to  thee  as  a 
pledge  of  friendship.  Take  her  for  thy  wife,  and  be  assured  of 
the  fidelity  of  her  family  and  her  peojile !" 

Vasco  Nunez  felt  the  force  of  these  words  and  knew  the  im- 
portance of  forming  a  strong  alliance  among  the  natives.  The 
captive  maid,  also,  as  she  stood  trembling  and  dejected  before 
him,  found  great  favour  in  his  eyes,  for  she  was  young  and 
beautiful.  He  granted,  therefore,  the  prayer  of  the  cacique, 
and  accepted  his  daughter,  engaging,  moreover,  to  aid  the 
father  against  his  enemies,  on  condition  of  his  furnisliing  pro- 
visions to  the  colony. 

Careta  remained  three  days  at  Darien,  during  which  time  he 
was  treated  with  the  utmost  kinduess.  Vasco  Nuficz  took  him 
on  board  of  his  ships  and  showed  him  every  part  of  them.  He 
displayed  before  him  also  the  war-horses,  with  their  armour 
and  rich  capai'isons,  and  astonished  him  witli  the  thunder  of 
artillery.  I^est  he  should  be  too  much  daunted  by  these  wai-- 
like  spectacles,  he  caused  the  musicians  to  perform  a  harmoni- 
ous concert  on  their  instruments,  at  which  the  cacique  Avas  lost 
in  admiration.  Thus  having  impressed  him  with  a  wonderful 
idea  of  the  power  and  endowments  of  his  new  allies,  he  loaded 
him  with  presents  and  permitted  him  to  depart.* 

Careta  returned  joyfully  to  bis  territories,  and  his  daughter 
rem.nined  with  Vasco  Nunez,  willingly,  for  his  sake,  giving  up 
her  family  and  native  home.      They  were  never  married,  but 

*  r.  Martyr,  D.  3,  c.  vi. 


104  SPA^VSU   VOYAGES   OF  DISCO  VERY. 

she  considered  herself  his  wife,  as  she  really  was,  according  to 
the  usages  of  her  own  country,  and  ho  treated  her  with  fond- 
ness, allowing  her  gradually  to  acquire  great  influence  over 
him.  To  his  affection  for  this  damsel  his  ultimate  ruin  is  in 
some  measure  to  be  ascribed. 


CHAPTER  III. 

VASCO  NUNEZ  HEARS  OF  A  SEA  BEYOND  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Vasco  Nunez  kept  his  word  with  the  father  of  his  Indian 
beauty.  Taking  with  him  eighty  men  and  his  companion-in- 
arms, Rodrigo  Enriquez  de  Colmenares,  he  repaired  by  sea  to 
Coyba,  the  province  of  the  cacique.  Here  landing,  he  invaded 
the  territories  of  Ponca,  the  great  adversary  of  Careta,  and 
obliged  him  to  take  refuge  in  the  mountains.  He  then  ravaged 
his  lands  and  sacked  his  villages,  in  which  he  found  consider- 
able booty.  Returning  to  Coyba,  where  he  was  joyfully  enter- 
tained by  Careta,  he  next  made  a  friendly  visit  to  the  adjacent 
province  of  Comagre,  wliich  was  under  the  sway  of  a  cacique 
of  the  same  name,  who  had  3,  COO  fighting  men  at  his  command. 

This  province  was  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mountain  in 
a  beautiful  plain  twelve  leagues  in  extent.  On  the  approach  of 
Vasco  Nunez,  the  cacique  came  forth  to  meet  him  attended  by 
seven  sons,  all  fine  young  men,  the  offspring  of  his  various 
wives.  He  was  followed  by  his  principal  chiefs  and  warriors, 
and  by  a  multitude  of  his  people.  The  Spaniards  were  con- 
ducted with  great  ceremony  to  the  village,  where  quarters  were 
assigned  them,  and  they  were  furnished  with  abundance  of 
provisions,  and  men  and  women  were  appomted  to  attend  upon 
them. 

The  dwelling  of  the  cacique  surpassed  any  they  had  yet  seen 
for  magnitude  and  for  the  skill  and  solidity  of  the  architecture. 
It  was  one  hundred  and  fifty  paces  in  length,  and  eighty  in 
breadth,  founded  upon  great  logs  surrounded  with  a  stone 
wall;  while  the  upper  part  was  of  wood-work,  curiously  inter- 
woven and  wrought  with  such  beauty,  as  to  fill  the  Spaniards 
with  surprise  and  admiration.  It  contained  many  commodious 
apartments.  There  were  store-rooms  also;  one  filled  with 
bread,  with  venison,  and  other  provisions;  another  with 
various  spirituous  beverages  which  the  Indians  made  from 


VASCO  NUS'KZ  I)J:  BALBOA.  ;|05 

maize,  from  a  species  of  the  palm,  and  from  roots  of  different 
kinds.  Tlicre  was  also  a  great  hall  in  a  retired  and  secret  part 
of  the  building,  wherein  Comagre  preserved  the  bodies  of  liis 
ancestors  and  relatives.  These  had  been  dried  bj'  the  fire,  so  as 
to  free  them  from  corruption,  and  afterwards  wrapped  in  man- 
tles of  cotton  riclily  wrought  and  interwoven  Avith  pearls  and 
jewels  of  gold,  and  with  certain  stones  held  precious  by  the 
natives.  They  were  then  hung  about  the  hall  with  cords  of 
C(.)tton,  and  regarded  with  great  reverence,  if  not  a  species  of 
religious  devotion. 

Among  the  sons  of  the  cacique,  the  eldest  was  of  a  lofty  and 
generous  spirit,  and  distinguished  above  the  rest  by  liis  supe- 
rior intelligence  and  sagacity.  Perceiving,  says  old  Peter 
[Martyr,  that  the  Spaniards  were  a  "wandering  kind  of  men, 
living  only  by  shifts  and  spoil, "  he  sought  to  gain  favour  for 
himself  and  family  by  gratifying  their  avarice.  He  gave 
Vasco  Nunez  and  Colmenares,  therefore,  4,000  ounces  of  gold, 
wrought  into  various  ornaments,  together  with  sixty  slaves, 
being  captives  that  he  had  taken  in  the  ware.  Vasco  Nunez 
ordered  one-fifth  of  the  gold  to  be  weighed  out  and  set  apart 
for  the  crown,  and  the  rest  to  be  shared  among  his  fol- 
lowers. 

The  division  of  the  gold  took  place  in  the  porch  of  thq  dwell- 
ing of  Comagre,  in  the  presence  oT  the  youthful  cacique  who 
had  made  the  gift.  As  the  Spaniards  were  weighing  it  out,  a 
violent  quarrel  arose  among  them  as  to  the  size  and  value  of 
the  pieces  which  fell  to  their  respective  shares.  The  high- 
minded  savage  was  disgusted  at  this  sordid  brawl  among 
l)eings  whom  he  had  regarded  with  such  reverence.  In  the 
fn-st  impulse  of  his  disdain,  he  struck  the  scales  with  his  fist 
and  scattered  the  glittering  gold  about  the  porch.  Before  the 
P>paniards  could  recover  from  their  astonishment  at  this  sud- 
den act,  he  thus  addressed  them,  "Why  should  you  quarrel 
for  such  a  trifle?  If  this  gold  is  indeed  so  precious  in  your 
eyes  that  for  it  alone  you  abandon  your  homes,  invade  the 
peaceful  land  of  others,  and  expose  yoiirselves  to  such  suffer- 
ings and  perils,  I  will  tell  you  of  a  region  where  you  may 
gratify  your  wishes  to  the  utmost.  Behold  those  lofty  moun- 
tains," continued  ho,  pointing  to  the  south.  "Beyond  these 
lies  a  mighty  sea,  which  may  be  di.scerned  from  their  summit. 
It  is  navigated  by  people  who  have  vessels  almost  as  large  as 
yours,  and  furnished,  like  them,  with  sails  and  oars.  All  the 
streams  which  flow  down  the  southern  sid^  of  those  mountains 


105  SPANISH   VOTAGJtS  OF  DISCOVERY 

into  that  sea  abound  in  gold,  and  the  kings  who. reign  upon  its 
borders  eat  and  drink  out  of  golden  vessels.  Crold,  in  fact,  is 
as  plentiful  and  common  among  those  people  of  the  south  as 
iron  is  among  you  Spaniards." 

Struck  with  this  intelligence,  Vasco  Nunez  inquired  eagerly 
as  to  the  means  of  penetrating  to  this  sea  and  to  the  opulent 
regions  on  its  shores.  "The  task,"  replied  the  prince,  "is 
difficult  and  dangerous.  You  must  pass  through  the  territo- 
ries of  many  powerful  caciques,  who  will  oppose  you  with  hosts 
of  wairiors.  Some  parts  of  the  mountains  are  infested  by 
fierce  and  cruel  cannibals — a  wandering,  lawless  race;  but, 
above  all,  you  will  have  to  encounter  the  great  cacique,  Tuba- 
nama,  whose  territories  are  at  the  distance  of  six  days'  jour- 
ney, and  more  rich  in  gold  than  any  other  province;  this 
cacique  will  be  sure  to  come  forth  against  you  Avith  a  miglity 
force.  To  accomplish  your  enterprise,  therefore,  will  require 
at  least  a  thousand  men  armed  like  those  who  follow  you." 

The  youthful  cacique  gave  him  further  information  on  the 
subject,  collected  from  various  captives  whom  he  had  taken  in 
battle,  and  from  one  of  his  own  nation,  who  had  been  for  a 
long  time  in  captivitj'  to  Tubanama,  the  powerful  cacique  of 
the  golden  realm.  The  prince,  moreover,  offered  to  prove  the 
sincerity  of  his  words  by  accompanying  Vasco  Nuiiez  in  any 
expedition  to  those  parts  at  the  head  o-  his  father's  warriors. 

Such  was  the  first  intimation  received  by  Vasco  Nunez  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  its  golden  realms,  and  it  had  an  immediate 
effect  upon  his  whole  character  and  conduct.  This  hitherto 
wandering  and  desperate  man  had  now  an  enterprise  opened 
to  his  ambition,  which,  if  accomplished,  would  elevate  him  to 
fame  and  fortune,  and  entitle  him  to  rank  among  the  great 
captains  and  discoverers  of  the  earth.  Henceforth  the  discov- 
ery of  the  sea  beyond  the  mountains  was  the  great  object  of 
his  thoughts,  and  his  whole  spirit  seemed  roused  and  ernoblcd 
by  the  idea. 

He  hastened  his  return  to  Darien,  to  make  the  necessary 
preparations  for  this  splendid  enterprise.  Before  departing 
from  the  province  of  Comagre  he  baptized  that  cacique  by  the 
name  of  Don  Carlos,  and  performed  the  same  ceremony  upon 
his  sons  and  several  of  his  subjects ; — thus  singularly  did  ava- 
rice and  religion  go  hand  in  hand  in  the  conduct  of  the  Spanish 
discoverers. 

Scarcely  had  Vasco  Nunez  returned  to  Darien  when  the 
Kogidor  Valdi\ia  arrived  there  from  Hispaniola,  but  with  no 


VASCO  NUS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  107 

more  provisions  than  could  be  brought  in  his  small  caravel. 
These  were  soon  consumed,  and  the  genei'al  scarcity  continued. 
It  was  heightened  also  by  a  violent  tempest  of  thunder,  light- 
ning, and  rain,  which  brought  such  torrents  from  the  moun- 
tains that  the  river  swelled  and  overflowed  its  bahlcs,  laying 
waste  all  the  adjacent  fields  that  had  been  cultivated.  In  tliis 
extremity  Vixsco  Nunez  despatched  Valdivia  a  second  time  to 
Hispaniola  for  provisions.  Aniniated  also  by  the  loftier  views 
of  his  present  ambition,  he  Avrote  to  Don  Diego  Columbus,  who 
governed  at  San  Domingo,  informing  him  of  the  intelligence 
he  had  received  of  a  groat  sea  and  opulent  realms  beyond  the 
mountains,  and  entreating  him  to  use  his  influence  with  the 
king  that  one  thousand  men  might  be  immediately  fiu-nished 
him  for  the  prosecution  of  so  grand  a  discovery.  He  sent  him 
also  the  amount  of  fifteen  thousand  crowns  in  gold,  to  be  re- 
mitted to  the  king  as  the  royal  fifths  of  what  had  already  been 
collected  under  his  jurisdiction.  Many  of  Ids  followers,  also, 
forwarded  sums  of  gold  to  be  remitted  to  their  creditors  in 
Spain.  In  the  mean  time,  Vasco  Nunez  prayed  the  admiral  to 
yield  him  prompt  succour  to  enable  him  to  keep  his  footing  in 
the  land,  representing  the  difficulty  he  had  in  maintaining, 
with  a  mere  handful  of  men,  so  vast  a  coimtry  in  a  state  of 
Bubjection. 


CHAPTER   IV. 


EXPEDITION  OF  VASCO   NUNEZ  IN  QUEST   OF  THE  GOLDEN  TEMPLE 
OF  DOBAYBA.— (1512.) 

While  Vasco  Nunez  awaited  the  result  of  this  mission  of 
Valdivia,  his  active  disposition  prompted  him  to  luideituko 
foraging  excursions  into  the  surroimding  country. 

Among  various  rumours  of  golden  realms  in  the  interior  of 
this  unknown  land,  was  one  concerning  a  province  called  Do- 
bayba,  situated  about  forty  leagues  distant,  on  the  banks  of  a 
great  river  which  emptied  itself,  by  several  mouths,  into  a 
corner  of  the  Gulf  of  Uraba. 

This  province  derived  its  name,  according  to  Inclian  tradi- 
tion^ from  a  mighty  female  of  the  olden  time,  the  mother  of 
the  god  who  created  the  sun  and  moon  and  all  good  things. 
She  h-M\  power  over  the  elements.  Pending  thimdtn-  and  Hght- 


108  SPAmsn   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

ning  to  lay  waste  the  lands  of  those  who  displeased  her,  but 
showering  down  fertility  and  abundance  upon  the  lands  of  her 
faithful  worshippers.  Others  described  her  as  having  been  an 
Indian  princess  who  once  reigned  amongst  the  mountains  of 
Dobayba,  and  was  renowned  throughout  the  land  for  her 
supernatural  power  and  wisdom.  After  her  death,  divine 
honours  were  paid  her,  and  a  great  temple  was  erected  for  her 
Avorship.  Hither  the  natives  repaired  from  far  and  near,  on  a 
kind  of  pilgrimage,  bearing  offerings  of  theii*  most  valuable 
effects.  Tlie  caciques  who  iiiled  over  distant  territories,  also 
sent  golden  tributes,  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  to  be  de- 
posited in  this  temple,  and  slaves  to  be  sacrificed  at  its  shrine. 
At  one  time,  it  was  added,  this  worship  fell  into  disuse,  the 
pilgrimages  were  discontinued,  and  the  caciques  neglected  to 
send  their  tributes ;  whereupon  the  deity,  as  a  punishment,  in- 
flicted a  drought  upon  the  country.  The  springs  and  fountains 
failed,  the  rivers  were  dried  up ;  the  inhabitants  of  the  moun- 
tains were  obliged  to  descend  into  the  plains,  where  they  digged 
pits  and  wells,  but  these  likcAvise  failing,  a  great  part  of  the 
nations  perished  with  tliirst.  The  remainder  hastened  to  pro- 
pitiate the  deity  by  tributes  and  sacrifices,  and  thus  succeeded 
in  averting  her  displeasure.  In  consequence  of  offerings  of 
the  kind,  made  for  generations  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
the  temple  was  said  to  be  filled  with  treasure,  and  its  walls  to 
be  covered  with  golden  gifts.*  In  addition  to  the  tale  of  this 
temple,  the  Indians  gave  marvellous  accounts  of  the  general 
wealth  of  this  province,  declaring  that  it  abounded  with  mines 
of  gold,  the  veins  of  which  reached  from  the  dwelhng  of  the 
cacique  to  the  borders  of  his  dominions. 

To  penetrate  to  this  territory,  and  above  all  to  secure  the 
treasures  of  the  golden  temple,  was  an  enterprise  suited  to  the 
■  adventurous  spirit  of  the  Spaniards.  Vasco  Nuiiez  chose  one 
hundred  and  seventy  of  his  hardiest  men  for  the  purpose. 
Embarking  them  in  two  brigantines  and  a  number  of  canoes, 
he  set  sail  from  Darien,  and,  after  standing  about  nine  leagues 
to  the  east,  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Eio  Grande  de  San  Juan, 
or  the  Great  River  of  St.  John,  also  called  the  Atrato,  which  is 
since  ascertained  to  be  one  of  the  branches  of  the  river  Darien. 
Here  he  detached  Rodrigo  Enriquez  de  Colmenares  with  onCr 
third  of  his  forces  to  explore  the  stream,  while  he  himself  pro- 
ceeded with  the  residue  to  another  branch  of  the  river,  which 
t — — — . — —^ — . 

*  p.  Martyr,  decad.  3,  c.  vi.    Idem.  d.  7,  c.  r. 


VASCO  NUl^TEZ  T)K  BALBOA.  100 

he  was  told  flowed  from  the  province  of  Dobayba,  and  which 
he  ascended,  flushed  Avith  sanguine  expectations.* 

His  old  enemy,  Zeuiaco,  the  cacique  of  Darien,  however,  had 
discovered  the  object  of  his  expedition,  and  had  taken  measures 
to  disappoint  it:  repairing  to  the  province  of  Dobayba,  he  had 
prevailed  upon  its  cacique  to  retire  at  the  approach  of  the 
Spaniards,  leaving  his  country  deserted. 

Vasco  Nunez  found  a  village  situated  in  a  marshy  neighbour- 
hood, on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  mistook  it  for  the  residence 
of  the  cacique :  it  was  silent  and  abandoned.  There  was  not  an 
Indian  to  be  met  with  from  whom  ho  could  obtain  aiiy  infor- 
mation about  the  country,  or  who  could  guide  him  to  the  golden 
temple.  He  was  disappointed,  also,  in  liis  hopes  of  obtaining  a 
supply  of  provisions,  but  he  found  weapons  of  various  kinds 
hanging  in  the  deserted  houses,  and  gathered  jewels  and  pieces 
of  gold  to  the  value  of  seven  thousand  castellanos.  L'iscour- 
aged  by  the  savage  look  of  the  surrounding  wilderness,  wh'-^h 
was  perplexed  by  deep  morasses,  and  having  no  guides  to  a'd 
him  in  exploring  it,  he  put  all  the  booty  he  had  collected  into 
two  large  canoes,  and  made  his  way  back  to  the  Gulf  of  U'-aba. 
Here  he  was  assailed  by  a  violent  tempest,  which  nearly 
wrecked  his  two  brigantines,  and  obliged  him  to  throw  a  great 
part  of  their  cargoes  overboard.  TLe  two  canoes  ''<^>ntainin^ 
the  booty  were  swaUowed  up  by  the  raging  sea,  and  all  their 
crows  perished. 

Thus  baffled  and  tempest-tost,  Vasco  Nuiiez  at  length  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  into  what  was  termed  o':e  Giand  River, 
which  he  ascended,  and  rejoined  Cohnenares  and  his  detach- 
ment. They  now  extended  their  excursions  up  a  stream  which 
emptied  into  the  Grand  River,  and  wliich,  u-om  the  dark  hue 
of  its  waters,  they  called  Rio  Negro,  or  the  i:)lack  River.  They 
also  explored  certain  other  tributary  streams  branching  rrom 
it,  though  not  without  occasional  skirmishes  with  the  natives. 


*  In  recording  this  expedition,  the  author  has  followed  the  old  Spanish  narratives, 
written  when  the  face  of  the  country  was  but  little  known,  and  lie  was  much  per- 
plexed to  reconcile  the  accounts  given  of  nunierous  streams  with  the  rivers  laid 
down  on  modern  maps.  By  a  clear  and  judicious  explanation,  given  in  tlie  recent 
work  of  Don  Manuel  Josef  Quintana,  it  appears  tliat  the  different  streams  exi)lored 
by  Vasco  Nufiez  and  Cohnenares  were  all  branches  of  one  grand  liver,  which,  ilo- 
sconding  from  the  mountains  of  the  interior,  winds  about  in  crystal  streams  among 
the  plains  and  morasses  bordering  the  bottom  of  the  ?r^at  ^ulf  of  Darien.  and  dis- 
charges itself  by  various  mouths  into  the  gulf.  In  fact,  the  stream  which  ran  by 
the  infant  city  of  Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua  was  but  one  cf  its  branches,  a  fact  en< 
tlrely  unknown  to  Vasco  Nufiez  and  his  cornpan.ons. 


110  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT, 

Ascending  one  of  these  minor  rivers  with  a  part  of  his  men, 
Vasco  Nunez  came  to  the  territories  of  a  cacique  named  Abi- 
beyba,  who  reigned  over  a  region  of  marshes  and  shallow  Jakes. 
The  habitations  of  the  natives  were  built  amidst  the  branches 
of  immense  and  lofty  trees.  They  were  large  enough  to  con- 
tain whole  family  connexions,  and  were  constructed  partly  of 
wood,  partly  of  a  kind  of  wicker  work,  combining  strength  and 
pliabihty,  and  yielding  uninjured  to  the  motion  of  the  branches 
when  agitated  by  the  wind.  The  inliabitants  ascended  to 
them  with  great  agility  by  light  ladders,  formed  of  great  reeds 
spHfc  through  the  middle,  for  the  reeds  on  this  coast  grow  to 
the  thickness  of  a  man's  body.  These  ladiers  they  drew  up 
after  them  at  night,  or  in  case  of  attack.  These  habitations 
were  well  stocked  with  provisions;  but  the  fermented  bever- 
ages, of  which  these  people  had  always  a  supply,  were  buried 
in  vessels  in  the  earth  at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  lest  they  should 
be  rendered  turbid  by  the  rocking  of  the  houses.  Close  by, 
also,  were  the  canoes  with  which  they  navigated  the  rivers  and 
ponds  of  their  marshy  coimtry  and  followed  their  main  occu- 
pation of  fishing. 

On  the  approach  of  the  Spaniards,  the  Indians  took  refuge  in 
their  tree-built  castles  and  drew  up  the  ladders.  The  former 
called  upon  them  to  descend  and  to  fear  nothing.  Upon  this 
the  cacique  replied,  entreating  that  he  might  not  be  molested, 
seeing  he  had  done  them  no  injury.  They  threatened,  unless 
he  came  down,  to  fell  th'^  trees  or  to  set  fire  to  them,  and  burn 
him  and  his  wives  and  children.  The  cacique  was  disposed  to 
consent,  but  was  prevented  by  the  entreaties  of  his  people. 
Upon  this  the  Spaniards  prepared  to  hew  down  the  trees,  but 
were  assailed  by  showers  of  stones.  They  covered  themselves, 
however,  with  their  bucklers,  assailed  the  trees  vigorously 
with  their  hatchets,  and  soon  compelled  the  inhabitants  to  ca- 
pitulate. The  cacique  descended  with  his  wife  and  two  of  hiSf 
children.  The  first  demand  of  the  Spaniards  was  for  gold. 
He  assured  them  he  had  none ;  for,  having  no  need  of  it,  he  had 
never  made  it  an  object  of  his  search.  Being  importuned, 
however,  he  assured  them  that  if  he  were  permitted  to  repair 
to  certain  mountains  at  a  distance,  he  would  in  a  few  days  re- 
turn and  bring  them  what  they  desired.  They  permitted  him 
to  depart,  retaining  his  wife  and  children  as  hostages,  but  they 
saw  no  more  of  the  cacique.  After  remaining  here  a  few  days 
and  regaling  on  the  provisions  which  they  found  in  abundance, 
they  continued  their  foraging  expeditions,  often  opposed  by 


VASCO  NUNEZ  BE  BALBOA.  HI 

the  bold  and  warlike  natives,  and  suffering  occasional  loss,  but 
intlictiug  great  havoc  on  their  opjjosers. 

Having  thus  overrun  a  considerable  extent  of  country,  and 
no  grand  object  presenting  to  lure  him  on  to  further  enterprise, 
Vasco  Nunez  at  length  returned  to  Darien  witli  the  spoils  and 
captives  ho  had  taken,  leaving  Bartolojne  Hurtado  with  thirty 
men  in  an  Indian  village  on  the  Kio  Negro,  or  Black  l^iver,  to 
hold  the  countr}-  in  subjection.  Thus  terminated  the  lirst  expe- 
dition in  quest  of  the  golden  temple  Dobayba,  which  for  some 
time  contiuued  to  be  a  favourite  object  of  enterprise  among  the 
adventurera  of  Darien. 


CHAPTER  V. 

DISASTER  ON  THE  BLACK   RIVER— INDIAN    PLOT  AGAINST  DARIEN. 

Bartolome  Hurtado  being  left  to  his  own  discretion  on  the 
banks  of  the  Black  River,  occupied  himself  occasionally  in 
hunting  the  scattered  natives  wbo  straggled  about  the  sur- 
rounding forests.  Having  in  this  way  picked  up  twenty-four 
captives,  he  put  them  on  board  of  a  large  canoe,  like  so  much 
live  stock,  to  be  transported  to  Darien  and  sold  as  slaves. 
Twenty  of  his  followers  who  were  infirm,  either  from  wounds 
or  the  diseases  of  the  climate,  embarked  also  in  the  canoe,  so 
that  onl}'  ten  men  remained  Avith  Hurtado. 

The  great  cnnoe  thus  heavily  freighted,  descended  the 
Black  River  slowly,  between  banks  overhung  with  forests. 
Zemaco,  the  indefatigable  cacique  of  Darien.  was  on  the  Avatch, 
and  waylaid  the  ark  with  four  ranoos  filled  with  warrioi-s 
armed  with  war  clubs,  and  lances  hardened  in  the  firo.  The 
Spaniards  being  sick,  could  make  but  feeble  resistance ;  somc! 
were  massacred,  others  leaped  into  the  river  and  wei-e 
drowned.  Two  only  escaped,  by  clinging  to  two  tnmks  of 
trees  that  were  floating  down  the  river  and  covering  them- 
selves with  the  branches.  Reaching  the  shore  in  safety,  they 
returned  to  Bartolome  Hurtado  with  the  tragical  tidings  of  the 
death  of  his  followers.  Hvu-tado  was  so  disheartened  by  the 
news,  and  so  dismayed  at  his  own  helpless  situation,  in  the 
midst  of  a  hostile  country,  that  he  resolved  to  abandon  the 
fatal  shores  of  the  Black  River  and  return  to  Darien.  He  was 
quickened  in  this  resolution  by  receiving  intimation  of  a  con- 


112  SPANISB  rOYAGIi:S  OF  DISCOVERT. 

spiracy  forming  among  the  natives.  The  implacable  Zemaco 
had  draAvn  four  other  caciques  into  a  secret  plan  to  assemble 
their  vassals  and  make  a  sudden  attack  upon  Darien.  Hurtado 
hastened  with  the  remnant  of  his  followers  to  carry  tidings  to 
the  settlement  of  this  conspiracy.  Many  of  the  inhabitants 
were  alarmed  at  his  intelligence ;  others  treated  it  as  a  false 
rumour  of  the  Indians,  and  no  preparations  were  made  against 
what  might  be  a  mere  imaginary  danger. 

Fortunately  for  the  Spaniards,  among  the  female  captives 
owned  by  Vasco  Nuiiez  was  an  Indian  damsel  named  Fulvia, 
to  whom,  in  consequence  of  her  beauty,  he  had  shown  great 
favour,  and  who  had  become  strongly  attached  to  him.  She 
had  a  brother  among  the  warriors  of  Zemaco,  who  often  visited 
her  in  secret.  In  one  of  his  visits  he  informed  her  that  on  a 
certain  night  the  settlement  would  be  attacked  and  every 
Spaniard  destroyed.  He  charged  her,  therefore,  to  hide  her- 
self that  night  in  a  certain  place  until  he  should  come  to  her 
aid,  lest  she  should  be  slain  in  the  confusion  of  the  massacre. 

When  her  brother  was  gone  a  violent  struggle  took  place  in 
the  bosom  of  the  Indian  girl,  bet'sveen  her  feeling  for  her 
family  and  her  people  and  her  affection  for  Vasco  Nunez.  The 
latter  at  length  prevailed,  and  she  revealed  all  that  had  been 
told  to  her.  Vasco  Nunez  prevailed  upon  her  to  send  for  her 
brother  under  pretence  of  aiding  her  to  escape.  Having  him 
in  his  power,  he  extorted  from  him  all  that  he  knew  uf  tne  de- 
signs of  thft  enemy.  His  confessions  showed  what  imminent 
danger  had  been  lurking  round  Vasco  Nunez  in  his  most  un- 
suspecting moments.  The  prisoner  informed  him  that  he  nad 
been  one  of  forty  Indians  sent  some  time  before  by  the  cacique 
Zemaco  to  Vasco  Nunez,  in  seeming  friendship,  co  be  omployed 
by  hun  in  cultivating  the  fields  adjacent  to  the  3ettlement. 
They  had  secret  orders,  however,  to  take  an  opportunity  when 
Vasco  Nuilez  should  come  foi'th  to  inspect  their  work,  to  set 
upon  him  in  an  unguarded  moment  and  destroy  him.  For- 
tunately, Vasco  Nuiiez  always  visited  the  fields  mounted  on 
his  war  horse  and  armed  with  lance  and  target.  The  Indians 
were  therefore  so  awed  by  his  martial  appearance,  and  by  the 
terrible  animal  he  bestrode,  that  they  dared  not  attack  him. 

Foiled  ill  this  and  other  attempts  of  the  kind,  Zemaco  re- 
sorted to  the  conspiracy  with  the  neighbouring  caciques  with 
■which  the  settlement  was  menaced. 

Five  caciques  had  joined  in  the  confederacy;  they  had 
prepared  a  hundred  canoes,  had  amassed  provisions  for  an 


VASCO  ]SU:^EZ  BE  BALBOA.  113 

army,  and  had  concerted  to  assemble  five  thousand  picked 
■warriors  at  a  certain  time  and  place;  with  these  they  \vcro  to 
make  an  attack  on  the  settlement  by  land  and  water  in  the 
midiUe  of  the  night  and  to  slaughter  every  Spaniard. 

Having  learnt  where  the  confederate  chiefs  w-ere  to  be  found, 
and  where  they  had  deposited  their  provisions,  Vasco  Nunez 
chose  seventy  of  his  best  men,  well-armed,  and  made  a  circuit ' 
by  land,  wliile  Colmenares,  Avith  sixty  men,  sallied  forth 
secretly  in  f<jur  canoes  guided  by  the  Indian  prisoner.  In  this 
way  they  surprised  the  general  of  the  Indian  army  and  several 
of  the  principal  confederates,  and  got  possession  of  aU  their 
provisions,  though  they  failed  to  capture  the  formidable  Ze- 
maco.  The  Indian  general  was  shot  to  death  with  arrows,  and 
the  leaders  of  the  conspiracy  were  hanged  in  presence  of  their 
captive  followers.  The  defeat  of  this  deep-laid  plan  and  the 
punishment  of  its  devisers,  spread  terror  throughout  the  neigh- 
bouring provinces  and  prevented  any  further  attempt  at  hos- 
tiliti;>;:;.  Vasco  Nuiiez,  however,  caused  a  strong  fortress  of 
wood  to  be  immediately  erected  to  guard  against  any  future 
assaults  of  t^e  savages. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


FURTHER    FACTIONS    IN     T.     ,    COLONY— ARROGANCE    OF    AI.ONZO 
PERl^7  AND  THE  BACHELOR  CORRAL.— (1512.) 

A  coNSiDEHAUi.^  time  had  now  elapsed  since  the  departure  of 
Valdivia  for  Hispaniolu,  yet  no  tidings  had  been  received  from 
him.  Many  began  to  fear  that  some  disaster  had  befallen  him ; 
while  others  insinuated  that  it  was  possible  both  he  and  Za- 
nmdio  might  have  neglected  the  objects  of  their  mission,  and, 
having  appropriated  to  their  own  iise  the  gold  with  which  they 
had  been  entnisted,  might  have  abandoned  the  colony  to  its 
fate. 

Vasco  Nunez  himself  was  harassed  by  these  surmises,  and 
by  the  dread  lest  the  Bachelor  Enciso  should  succeed  in  preju- 
dicing the  mind  of  his  sovereign  against  him.  Impatient  of 
this  state  of  anxious  suspense,  he  determined  to  repair  to 
Spain  to  connmmicate  in  person  all  that  he  had  heard  concern- 
ing the  Southern  Sea,  and  to  ask  for  the  troops  necessary  for 
its  discovery. 


114  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERY. 

Every  one,  however,  both  friend  and  foe,  exclaimed  against 
such  a  measure,  representing  his  presence  as  indispensable  to 
the  safety  of  the  colony,  from  his  great  talents  as  a  commander 
and  the  fear  entertained  of  him  by  the  Indians. 

After  much  debate  and  contention,  it  was  at  length  agreed 
that  Juan  de  Cayzedo  and  Rodrigo  Enriquez  de  Colmenares 
should  go  in  his  place,  instructed  to  make  all  necessary  repre- 
sentations to  the  king.  Letters  were  written  also  containing 
the  most  extravagant  accounts  of  the  riches  of  the  country, 
partly  dictated  by  the  sanguine  hopes  of  the  writers,  and 
partly  by  the  fables  of  the  natives.  The  rumoured  wealth  of 
the  province  of  Dobayba  and  the  treasures  of  its  golden  temple 
were  not  forgotten ;  and  an  Indian  was  taken  to  Spain  by  the 
commissioners,  a  native  of  the  province  of  Zenu,  where  gold 
was  said  to  be  gathered  in  nets  stretched  across  the  mountain 
streams.  To  give  more  weight  to  all  these  stories,  every  one 
contributed  some  portion  of  gold  from  his  private  hoard  to  be 
present'^d  to  the  king  in  addition  to  the  amount  arising  from 
his  fifths. 

But  little  time  elapsed  after  the  departure  of,, the  commis- 
sioners when  new  dissensions  broke  out  in  the  colony.  It  was 
hardly  to  be  expected  that  a  fortuitous  assemblage  of  adven- 
turers could  remain  long  tranquil  during  a  time  of  suffering 
imder  rulers  of  questionable  authority.  Vasco  Nunez,  it  is 
true,  had  risen  by  his  courage  and  abilities ;  but  he  had  risen 
from  among  their  ranks;  he  was,  in  a  manner,  of  their  own 
creation ;  and  they  had  not  become  sufficiently  accustomed  to 
him  as  a  governor  to  forget  that  he  was  recently  but  a  mere 
soldier  of  fortune  and  an  absconding  debtor. 

Their  factious  discontent,  however,  was  directed  at  first 
afrainst  a  favourite  of  Vasco  Ninicz,  rather  than  against  him- 
i  elf.  He  had  invested  Bartolome  Hurtado,  the  commander  of 
ihe  Black  River,  with  considerable  authority  in  the  colony, 
and  the  latter  gave  great  offence  by  his  oppressive  conduct. 
Hurtado  had  particularly  aggi-ieved  by  his  arrogance  one 
Alonzo  Perez  de  la  Rua,  a  touchy  cavaher,  jealous  of  his 
honour,  who  seems  to  have  peculiarly  possessed  the  sensitive 
punctilio  of  a  Spaniard.  Firing  at  some  indig-nity,  whether 
real  or  fancied,  Alonzo  Perez  threw  himself  into  the  ranks  of 
the  disaffected,  and  was  immediately  chosen  as  their  leader. 
Thus  backed  by  a  faction,  he  clamoured  loudly  for  the  punish- 
ment of  Hiu-tado;  and,  finding  his  demands  unattended  to, 
threw  out  threats  of  deposing  Vasco  Nunez.     The  latter  no 


VAsco  yuS'EZ  dp:  balboa.  h.-) 

sooner  heard  of  these  menaces,  than,  with  his  usual  spirit  and 
promptness,  he  seized  upoia  the  testy  Alonzo  Perez  and  threw 
hfm  in  prison  to  digest  his  indignities  and  cool  his  passions  at 
leisure. 

The  conspirators  flew  to  arms  to  liberate  their  loader.  The 
friends  of  Vasco  Nunez  were  equally  on  the  alert.  The  two 
jjartics  drew  out  in  battle  array  in  the  public  square,  and  a 
sanguinary  conflict  was  on  the  point  of  taking  place.  Fortu- 
nately there  were  some  cool  heads  left  in  the  colony.  These 
interfered  at  the  critical  moment,  representing  to  the  angiy 
adversaries  tliat  if  they  fought  among  themselves,  and  dimin- 
ished then*  already  scanty  numbers,  even  the  conquerors  must 
eventually  fall  a  prey  to  the  Indians. 

Their  remonstrances  had  effect.  A  parley  ensued,  and,  after 
much  noisy  debate,  a  kind  of  compromise  was  made.  Alonzo 
Perez  was  liberated,  and  the  mutineere  dispei-sed  quietly  to 
their  homos.  The  next  day,  however,  they  were  again  in 
arms,  and  seized  upon  Bartolome  llurtado;  but  after  a  little 
•while  wore  prevailed  upon  to  set  liim  free.  Their  factious 
vjews  seemed  turned  to  a  liigher  object.  They  broke  forth 
into  loud  murmurs  against  Vasco  Nunez,  complaining  that  he 
had  not  made  a  fair  division  of  the  gold  and  slaves  taken  in 
the  late  expeditions,  and  threatening  to  arrest  him  and  bring 
him  to  account.  Above  all,  they  clamoured  for  an  immediate 
distribution  of  ten  thousand  castellanos  in  gold,  which  yet  re- 
mained unshared. 

Vasco  Nuilez  understood  too  well  the  riotous  nature  of  the 
people  under  him,  and  his  own  precarious  hold  on  their  obe- 
dience, to  attempt  to  cope  with  them  in  this  moment  of  turbu- 
lence. He  shrewdly  determined,  therefore,  to  withdraw  from 
the  sight  of  the  multitude,  and  to  leave  them  to  divide  the 
spoil  among  themselves,  trusting  to  their  own  strife  for  liis 
security.  That  very  night  he  sallied  forth  into  the  country, 
under  pretence  of  going  on  a  himting  expedition. 

The  next  morning  the  nmtineers  found  themselves  in  pos- 
session of  the  field.  Alonzo  Perez,  the  pragmatical  ringleader, 
immediately  assumed  the  command,  seconded  by  the  Bachelor 
Corral.  Their  first  measure  was  to  seize  upon  the  ten  thou- 
sand castellanos,  and  to  divide  them  among  the  multitude,  by 
way  of  seciu'ing  their  own  popularity.  The  event  proved  the 
sagacity  and  forethought  of  Vasco  Nm~icz.  Scarcely  had  these 
hot-headed  intermeddle 'rs  entered  upon  the  partition  of  the 
gold,  than  a  furious  strife  arose.     Every  one  was  dissatisfied 


116  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

with  his  share,  considering  his  merits  entitled  to  peculiar  rec- 
ompense. Every  attempt  to  appease  the  rabble  only  auj?- 
mented  their  violence,  and  in  their  rage  they  swore  that  Vasco 
Nuilez  had  always  shown  more  judgment  and  discrimination 
in  his  distributions  to  men  of  merit. 

The  adherents  of  the  latter  now  ventured  to  lift  up  their 
voices;  "Vasco  Nuiiez,"  said  they,  "won  the  gold  by  his  en- 
terprise and  valour,  and  would  have  shared  it  with  the  brave 
and  the  deserving ;  but  these  men  have  seized  upon  it  by  fac- 
tious means,  and  would  squander  it  upon  their  minions."  The 
multitude,  who,  in  fact,  admired  the  soldier-like  qualities  of 
Vasco  Nuiiez,  displayed  one  of  the  customary  reverses  of  pop- 
ular feeling.  The  touchy  Alonzo  Perez,  his  coadjutor  the 
Bachelor  Corral,  and  several  other  of  the  ringleaders  were 
seized,  thrown  in  irons,  and  confined  in  the  fortress;  and 
Vasco  Nuiiez  was  recalled  with  loud  acclamations  to  the  settle- 
ment. 

How  long  this  pseudo  commander  might  have  been  able  to 
manage  the  unsteady  populace  it  is  impossible  to  say,  but  just 
at  this  juncture  two  ships  arrived  from  Hispaniola,  freighted 
with  supplies,  and  bringing  a  reinforcement  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  men.  They  brought  also  a  commission  to  Vasco 
Nuiiez,  signed  by  Miguel  de  Pasamonte,  the  royal  treasurer  of 
Hispaniola,  to  whom  he  had  sent  a  private  present  of  gold, 
constituting  him  captain-general  of  the  colony.  It  is  doubtful 
whether  Pasamonte  possessed  the  power  to  confer  such  a  com- 
mission, though  it  is  affirmed  that  the  king  had  clothed  him 
with  it,  as  a  kind  of  check  upon  the  authority  of  the  admiral 
Don  Diego  Columbus,  then  Governor  of  Hispaniola,  of  whose 
extensive  sway  in  the  new  world  the  monarch  was  secretly 
jealous.  At  any  rate  the  treasurer  appears  to  have  acted  in 
full  confidence  of  the  ultimate  approbation  of  his  sovereign. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  was  rejoiced  at  receiving  a  commission  which 
clothed  him  with  at  least  the  semblance  of  royal  sanction. 
Feeling  more  assured  in  his  situation,  and  being  naturally  of  a 
generous  and  forgi\ang  temper,  he  was  easily  prevailed  upon, 
in  his  moment  of  exultation,  to  release  and  pardor?  Alonzo 
Perez,  the  Bachelor  Corral,  and  the  other  ringleac^-^rs  of  the 
late  commoiions,  and  for  a  time  the  feuds  and  factions  of  this 
petty  community  were  lulled  to  repose. 


VASCO  NU^EZ  DK  BALBOA.  \Yl 


CHAPTER  VII. 

VASCO     NUSfEZ    DETERMINES    TO     SEEK    THE     SEA     BEYOND     THE 
MOUNTAINS.  — (ISl.'J.) 

The  temporary  triumph  of  Vasco  Nuilez  was  soon  overcast 
bj'  tidings  received  from  Spain.  His  late  colleague,  the  Al(?alde 
Zamudio,  Avrote  him  word  that  the  Bachelor  Enciso  had  car- 
ried his  complaints  to  the  foot  of  the  throne,  and  succeeded  in 
rousing  the  indignation  of  the  king,  and  had  obtained  a  sen- 
tence in  his  favour,  condemning  Vasco  Nunez  in  costs  and 
damages.  Zamudio  informed  him  in  addition,  that  he  would 
be  immediately  summoned  to  repair  to  Spain,  and  answer  in 
person  the  criminal  charges  advanced  against  him  on  account 
of  the  harsh  treatment  and  probable  death  of  the  unfortunate 
Nicuesa. 

Vasco  Nunez  was  at  first  stiinned  b.y  this  intelligence,  which 
seemed  at  one  blow  to  annihilate  all  his  hopes  and  fortunes. 
He  was  a  man,  hoAvever,  of  prompt  decision  and  intrepid 
spirit.  The  information  received  from  Spain  was  private  and 
informal,  no  order  had  yet  arrived  from  the  king,  he  was  still 
master  of  his  actions,  and  had  control  over  the  colony.  One 
brilliant  achievement  might  atone  for  all  the  past,  and  fix  him 
in  the  favour  of  the  monarch.  Such  an  achievement  was 
within  his  reach — the  discovery  of  the  southern  sea.  It  is  true, 
a  thousand  soldiers  had  been  required  for  the  cx])edition,  but 
were  he  to  wait  for  their  arrival  from  Spain,  his  day  of  grace 
would  be  past.  It  was  a  desperate  thing  to  undertake  the  task 
with  the  handful  of  men  at  his  commond,  but  the  circum- 
stances of  the  case  were  desperate.  Fame,  fortune,  life  itself, 
depended  upon  the  successful  and  the  prompt  execution  of  the 
enterprise.     To  linger  was  to  be  lost. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  looked  round  upon  the  crew  of  daring  and 
reckless  adventurers  that  formed  the  colony,  and  chose  one 
hundred  and  ninety  of  the  most  resolute  and  vigorous,  and  of 
those  most  devoted  to  his  person.  Tliese  he  ai-mcd  with  swords, 
targets,  cross-bows,  and  arquebusscs.  He  did  not  conceal 
from  them  the  peril  of  the  enter]irise  into  which  he  was  about 
to  lead  them ;  but  the  spirit  of  these  Spanish  adventurers  was 
always  roused  by  the  idea  of  perilous  and  extravagant  exploit. 
To  aid  his  slender  forces,  he  took  with  him  a  number  of  blood- 


118  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

hoimcis,  which  had  been  found  to  be  terrific  alHes  in  Indian 
warfare. 

The  Spanish  writers  make  particular  mention  of  one  of  those 
animals,  named  Leoncico,  which  was  a  constant  companion, 
and,  as  it  were,  body-guard  of  Vasco  Nunez,  and  describe  him 
as  minutely  as  they  would  a  favourite  warrior.  He  was  of  a 
middle  size.. but  immensely  strong:  of  a  dull  yellow  or  reddish 
colour,  Avith  a  black  muzzle,  and  his  body  was  scarred  all  over 
with  wounds  received  in  innumerable  battles  with  the  Indians. 
Vasco  Nuiiez  always  took  him  on  his  expeditions,  and  some- 
times lent  hun  to  others,  receiving  for  his  services  the  same 
share  of  booty  allotted  to  an  armed  man.  In  this  way  he 
gained  by  him,  in  the  course  of  his  campaigns,  upwards  of  a 
thousand  crowns.  The  Indians,  it  is  said,  had  conceived  such 
terror  of  this  animal,  that  the  very  sight  of  him  was  sufficient 
to  put  a  host  of  them  to  flight.* 

In  addition  to  these  forces,  Vasco  Nufiez  took  with  him  a 
number  of  the  Indians  of  Darien,  whom  he  had  won  to  him  by 
kindness,  and  whose  services  were  important,  from  their 
knowledge  of  the  wilderness,  and  of  the  habits  and  resources 
of  savage  life.  Such  was  the  motley  armament  that  set  forth 
from  the  little  colony  of  Darien,  under  the  guidance  of  a  dar- 
ing, if  not  desperate  commander,  in  quest  of  the  great  Pacific 
Ocean. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

EXPEDITION  IN  QUEST  OF   THE  SOUTHERN  SEA, 

It  was  on  the  first  of  September  that  Vasco  Nunez  embarked 
with  his  followers  in  a  brigantine  and  nine  large  canoes  or 
pirogues,  followed  by  the  cheers  and  good  wishes  of  those  who 
remained  at  the  settlement.  Standing  to  the  north-westward, 
he  arrived  without  accident  at  Coyba,  the  domimons  of  the 
cacique  Careta,  whose  daughter  he  had  received  as  a  f)ledge  of 
amity.  That  Indian  beauty  had  acquired  a  great  influence 
over  Vasco  Nufiez,  and  appears  to  have  cemented  his  friend- 
ship with  her  father  and  her  people.  He  was  received  by  the 
cacique  with  open  arms,  and  furnished  with  guides  and  war- 
riors to  aid  him  ia  liis  enterprise. 

*  Oviedo,  Hist.  Indies,  p.  2,  c.  3,  MS. 


VAsao  yuS/znz  ui-:  balboa.  119 

Vasco  Nunez  left  about  half  of  his  men  at  Coyba  to  guard 
the  brigantine  and  canoes,  while  Ik;  should  penetrate  the  wil- 
dei'ness  with  the  residue.  The  importance  (^f  this  present  ex- 
pedition, not  merely  as  affecting  his  own  fortunes,  but  as  it 
were  unfolding  a  miglity  secret  of  nature,  seems  to  have  im- 
pressed itself  upon  his  spii'it,  and  to  have  given  corresponding 
solemnity  to  liis  conduct.  Before  setting  out  upon  his  march, 
he  caused  mass  to  be  performed,  and  offered  up  prayere  to  God 
for  the  success  of  his  perilous  undertaking. 

It  was  on  the  sixth  of  September  that  he  struck  off  for  the 
mountains.  The  march  was  difficult  and  toilsome  in  the  ex- 
treme. The  Spaniards,  encumbered  with  the  weight  of  their 
armour  and  weapons,  and  oppressed  by  the  heat  of  a  tropical 
chmate,  were  obliged  to  climb  rocky  precipices,  and  to  struggle 
through  close  and  tangled  forests.  Their  Indian  alUes  aided 
them  by  carrymg  their  ammunition  and  provisions,  and  by 
guiding  them  to  the  most  practicable  paths. 

On  the  eighth  of  September  they  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Ponca,  the  ancient  enemy  of  Careta.  The  village  was  lifeless 
and  abandoned;  the  cacique  and  his  people  had  fled  to  the 
fastnesses  of  the  mountains.  The  Spaniards  remained  here 
several  days  to  recruit  the  health  of  some  of  their  number  who 
had  fallen  ill.  It  was  necessary  also  to  procure  guides  ac- 
quainted with  the  mountain  wilderness  they  were  approaching. 
The  retreat  of  Ponca  was  at  length  discovered,  and  he  was  pre- 
vailed upon,  though  reluctantly,  to  come  to  Vasco  Nunez.  The 
latter  had  a  peculiar  facihty  in  winning  the  confidence  and 
friendship  of  the  natives.  The  caci(pie  was  soon  so  captivated 
by  his  kindness,  that  he  revealed  to  him  in  secret  all  he  knew 
of  the  natural  riches  of  the  country.  He  assured  him  of  the 
truth  of  what  had  been  told  him  about  a  great  pechry  or  sea 
beyond  the  moimtains,  and  gave  him  several  ornaments  inge- 
niously wrought  of  fine  gold,  which  had  been  brought  from 
the  countries  upon  its  borders.  He  told  him,  moreover,  that 
when  he  had  attained  the  summit  of  a  lofty  ridge,  to  which  he 
pointed,  and  which  seemed  to  rise  up  to  the  skies,  he  would 
behold  that  sea  spread  out  far  below  him. 

Animated  by  the  accounts,  Vasco  Nufiez  procured  fresh 
guides  from  the  cacique,  and  prepared  to  ascend  the  moun- 
tains. Numbers  of  his  men  having  fallen  ill  from  fatigue  and 
the  heat  of  the  climate,  he  ordered  them  to  return  slowly  to 
Coyba,  taking  with  him  none  but  such  as  were  in  robust  and 
vigorous  health. 


120  iSPAIflSII   VOYAGES   OF  DISCO VEEY. 

On  the  20th  of  September,  he  again  set  forward  through  a 
broken  rocky  country,  covered  with  a  matted  forest,  and  inter- 
sected by  deep  and  turbulent  streams,  mamy  of  which  it  was 
necessary  to  cross  upon  rafts. 

So  toilsome  was  the  journey,  that  in  four  days  they  did  not 
advance  above  ten  leagues,  and  in  the  mean  time  they  suffered 
excessively  from  hunger.  At  the  end  of  this  time  they  arrived 
at  the  province  of  a  warlike  cacique,  named  Quaraqua,  who 
was  at  war  with  Ponca. 

Hearing  that  a  band  of  strangers  were  entering  his  terri- 
tories, guided  by  the  subjects  of  his  inveterate  foe,  the  cacique 
took  the  field  with  a  large  number  of  warriors,  some  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  others  with  long'  spears,  or  with  double- 
handed  maces  of  palm- wood,  almost  as  heavy  and  hard  as  iron. 
Seeing  the  incoiisideyable  i:nimber  of  the  Spaniards,  they  set 
upon  them:  with  furious  yells,  thinking  to  overcome  them  in 
an  instant.  The  first  discharge  of  fire-arms,  however,  struck 
them  with  dismay.  They  thought  they  were  contending  with 
demons  who  vomited  forth  thunder  and  lightning,  especially 
when  tliey  saw  their  companions  fall  bleeding  and  dead  beside 
them,  without  receiving  any  apparent  blow.  They  took  to 
headlong  flight,  and  were  hotly  pursued  by  the  Spaniards  and 
their  bloodhounds.  Some  were  transfixed  with  lances,  others 
hewn  down  with  swords,  and  many  were  torn  to  pieces  by  the 
dogs,  so  that  Quaraqua  and  six  hundred  of  his  warriors  were 
left  dead  upon  the  field. 

A  brother  of  the  cacique  and  several  chiefs  were  taken  pris- 
oners. They  were  clad  in  robes  ot  white  cotton.  Either  from 
their  effeminate  dress,  or  from  the  accusations  of  their  ene- 
mies, the  Spaniards  were  induced  to  consider  them  guilty  of 
unnatural  crimes,  and,  in  their  abhorrence  and  disgust,  gave 
them  to  be  torn  to  pieces  by  the  bloodhounds.* 

It  is  also  affirmed,  that  among  the  prisoners  were  several  ne- 
groes, who  had  been  slaves  to  the«cacique.  The  Spaniards,  we 
are  told,  were  informed  by  the  other  captives,  that  these  black 
men  came  from  a  region  at  no  great  distance,  where  there  was 
a  people  of  that  colour  Avith  whom  they  were  frequently  at 
war.  "These,"  adds  the  Spanish  writer,  "were  the  first  ne- 
groes ever  found  in  the  New  World,  and  I  beheve  no  others 
have  since  been  discovered. ''f 


*  Herrera,  Hist.  Ind.  d.  1,  1.  x.  c.  1. 

t  Peter  Martyr,  in  his  third  Decade,  makes  mention  of  these  negroes  in  the  fol- 


VASCO  NUJ^MZ  dp:  BALBOA.  121 

After  this  sanguinary  triunii)h,  the  Spaniards  marched  to 
the  village  of  Quaraqua,  where  tliey  found  considerable  booty 
in  gold  and  jewels.  Of  this  Vasco  Nunez  reserved  one-fifth  for 
the  crown,  and  shared  the  rest  liberally  among  his  followers. 
The  village  was  at  the  foot  of  the  last  moimtain  that  remained 
for  them  to  climb ;  several  of  the  Spaniards,  however,  were  so 
disabled  by  the  wounds  they  had  received  in  battle,  or  so  ex- 
hausted by  the  fatigue  and  hunger  they  had  endured,  that  they 
were  unable  to  proceed.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  reluc- 
tantly to  remain  in  the  village,  within  si^'ht  of  the  mountain- 
top  that  commanded  the  long-sought  prospect,  \fesco  Nunez 
selected  fresh  guides  from  among  his  prisoners,  who  were  na- 
tives of  the  province,  and  sent  back  the  subjects  of  Ponca.  Of 
the  band  of  Spaniards  who  had  set  out  with  him  in  this  enter- 
prise, sixiy-naven  alone  remained  in  sufficient  health  and 
spirits  for  this  last  effort.  These  he  ordered  to  retire  early  to 
repose,  that  they  might  be  ready  to  set  off  at  the  cool  and  fresh 
hour  of  day-break,  so  as  to  reach  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
before  the  noon-tide  heat. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DISCOVERY  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 

The  day  had  scarcely  dawned,  when  Vasco  Nunez  and  his 
followers  set  forth  from  the  Indian  village  and  began  to  climb 
the  height.  It  was  a  severe  and  rugged  toil  for  men  so  way- 
worn, but  they  were  filled  with  new  ardour  at  the  idea  of  the 
triumphant  scene  that  was  so  soon  to  repay  them  for  all  their 
hai'dships. 

About  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  they  emerged  from  the 
thick  forests  through  which  they  had  hitherto  struggled,  and 
arrived  at  a  lofty  and  airy  region  of  the  mountain.     The  bald 

lowing:  words: — "  About  two  days'  journey  distant  from  Quaraqua  is  a  repion  in- 
habited only  by  black  IMooi-s,  excecilinp  flt^rce  and  cruel.  It  is  supposed  tliat  in 
time  past  certain  black  Moors  sailed  thither  out  of  Ethiopia,  to  rob,  and  tliat  by 
shipwreck,  or  some  other  chance,  they  were  driven  to  these  nioiuilaiiis."  As  Mar- 
tyr lived  and  wrote  at  the  time,  lie  of  course  related  the  mere  rumour  of  the  day, 
which  all  subsequent  accounts  have  disproved.  The  other  liistorians  who  men- 
tioned tlie  circtimstance,  have  probaVily  repented  it  from  him.  It  must  have  risen 
from  some  misrepieseiitatlou,  and  is  not  entitled  tocredil. 


122  SPANISH    VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

summifc  alono  remained  to  be  ascended,  and  their  p:uides 
pointed  to  a  moderate  eminence  from  which  they  said  the 
southern  sea  was  visible. 

Upon  this  Vasco  Nunez  commanded  his  followers  to  halt, 
and  that  no  man  should  stir  from  his  place.  Then,  with  a 
palpitating  heart,  he  ascended  alone  the  bare  mountain-top. 
On  reaching  the  summit  the  long-decired  prospect  burst  upon 
his  view.  It  was  as  if  a  new  world  were  unfolded  to  him, 
separated  from  all  hitherto  known  by  this  mighty  barrier  of 
mountains.  Below  him  extended  a  vast  chaos  of  rock  and 
forest,  and  green  savannahs  and  wandering  streams,  while  at 
a  distance  the  waters  of  the  promised  ocean  glittered  in  the 
morning  sun. 

At  this  glorious  prospect  Vasco  Nunez  sank  upon  his  knees, 
and  poured  out  thanks  to  God  for  being  the  first  European  to 
whom  it  was  given  to  make  that  great  discovery.  He  then 
called  his  people  to  ascend:  "Behold,  my  friends,"  said  he, 
' '  that  glorious  sight  which  we  have  so  much  desired.  Let  us 
give  thanks  to  God  that  he  has  granted  us  this  great  honour 
and  advantage.  Let  us  pray  to  liim  that  he  will  guide  and  aid 
us  to  conquer  the  sea  and  land  which  we  have  discovered,  and 
in  which  Christian  has  never  entered  to  preach  the  holy  doc- 
trine of  the  Evangelists.  As  to  yourselves,  be  as  you  have 
hitherto  been,  faithful  and  true  to  me,  and  by  the  favour  of 
Christ  you  will  become  the  richest  Spaniards  that  have  ever 
come  to  the  Indies;  you  will  render  the  greatest  services  to 
your  king  that  ever  vassal  rendered  to  his  lord ;  and  you  will 
have  the  eternal  giory  and  advantage  of  all  that  is  here  dis- 
covered, conquered,  and  converted  to  our  holy  Catholic  faith." 

The  Spaniards  aii3wered  this  speech  by  embracing  Vasco 
Nunez  and  proraismg  to  follow  hiin  to  death.  Among  them 
was  a  priest,  named  Andres  de  Vara,  who  lifted  up  his  voice 
and  chanted  Te  Deum  laudamus — the  usual  anthem  of  Spanish 
discoverers.  The  people,  kneeling  down,  joined  in  the  strain 
with  pious  enthusiasm  and  tears  of  joy ;  and  never  did  a  more 
sincere  oblation  rise  to  tlie  Deity  from  a  sanctified  altar  than 
from  that  wild  mountain  summit.  It  was  indeed  one  of  the 
most  sublime  discoveries  that  had  yet  been  made  in  the  New 
World,  and  must  have  opened  a  boundless  field  of  conjecture 
to  the  wondering  Spaniards.  The  unagination  delights  to  pic- 
ture forth  the  splendid  confusion  of  their  thoughts.  Was  this 
the  gx-eat  Indian  Ocean,  studded  with  precious  islands,  abound- 
ing in  gold,  in  gems,  and  spices,  and  bordered  by  the  gorgeous 


VASCO  I^UNEZ  DR  BALBOA.  123 

cities  and  -svenltJiy  marts  of  tlie  Kast?  Or  was  it  somo  lon(>ly 
sea  locked  up  in  the  embraces  of  savage  uncultivated  conti- 
nents, and  never  travei'sed  by  a  bark,  excepting  the  light 
pirogue  of  the  Indian?  The  latter  could  hardly  be  the  case, 
for  the  natives  had  told  the  Spaniards  of  golden  realms,  and 
popiUous  and  powerful  and  luxurious  nations  upon  its  shores. 
Perhaps  it  might  be  bordered  by  various  peoi)lc,  civilized  in 
fact,  but  differing  from  Europe  in  their  civilization ;  who  might 
have  pecuUar  laws  and  customs  and  arts  and  sciences;  who 
might  form,  as  it  were,  a  world  of  their  own,  interconmiuning 
by  this  mighty  sea,  and  carrying  on  commerce  between  their 
own  islands  and  continents ;  but  who  might  exist  in  total  igiao- 
rancc  and  independence  of  the  other  hemisphere. 

Such  may  natui-ally  have  been  the  ideas  suggested  by  the 
sight  of  this  unknown  ocean.  It  was  the  prevalent  belief  of 
the  Spaniards,  however,  that  they  were  the  first  Christians 
who  had  made  the  discover}'.  Vasco  Nunez,  therefore,  called 
upon  all  present  to  witness  that  he  took  possession  of  that  sea, 
its  islands,  and  surrounding  lands,  in  the  name  of  the  sov- 
ereigns of  Castile,  and  the  notary  of  the  expedition  made  a 
testimonial  of  the  same,  to  wliich  all  present,  to  the  number  of 
sixty -seven  men,  signed  their  names.  He  then  caused  a  fair 
and  tall  tree  to  be  cut  down  and  wrought  into  a  cross,  which 
was  elevated  on  the  spot  from  whence  he  had  at  first  beheld 
the  sea.  A  mound  of  stones  was  likewise  piled  up  to  serve  as 
a  monument,  and  the  names  of  the  Ca.stilian  sovei-oigns  were 
carved  on  the  neighbouring  ti*ees.  The  Indians  beheld  all  these 
ceremonials  and  rejoicings  in  silent  wonder,  and,  while  they 
aided  to  erect  the  cross  and  pile  up  the  mound  of  stones, 
marvelled  exceedingly  at  the  meaning  of  these  moniunents, 
little  thinking  that  they  marked  ihe  subjugation  of  tlieir  land. 

The  memorable  event  here  recorded  took  place  on  the  SOtli 
of  September.  1513;  so  that  the  Spaniards  had  been  twenty 
days  performing  the  journey  from  the  province  of  Careta  to 
the  feimniiit  of  the  moimtain,  a  distance  which  at  present,  it  is 
said,  docs  not  re(iuire  more  than  six  days'  travel.  Indeed  the 
isthmus  in  this  neighboiu-hood  is  not  more  than  eighteen 
leagues  in  breadth  in  its  widest  part,  and  in  some  places 
merely  seven ;  but  it  consists  of  a  ridge  of  extremely  high  and 
rugged  mountains.  When  the  discoverers  traversed  it.  they 
had  no  route  but  the  Indian  paths,  and  often  had  to  force  their 
way  amidst  all  kinds  of  obstacles,  both  from  the  savage 
country  and  its  savage  inhabitants     lu   fact  the  dDtails  of 


124  SPAmSR   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEET. 

this  narrative  sufficiently  account  for  the  slowness  of  theif 
progress,  and  present  an  array  of  difficulties  and  perils  which, 
as  has  been  well  observed,  none  but  those  "  men  of  iron"  could 
have  subdued  and  overcome.* 


CHAPTEE  X. 

VASCO  NUNEZ  MARCHES  TO  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  SOUTH  SEA. 

Having  taken  possession  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  all  its 
realms  from  the  sunnnit  of  the  mountain,  Vasco  Nunez  now 
descended  with  his  httle  band  to  seek  the  regions  of  reputed 
wealth  upon  its  shores.  He  had  not  proceeded  far  when  he 
came  to  the  province  of  a  warlike  cacique,  named  Chiapes, 
who,  issuing  forth  at  the  head  of  his  warriors,  looked  with 
scorn  upon  the  scanty  number  of  ctraggling  Spaniards,  and 
forbade  them  to  set  foot  within  his  territories.  Vasco  Nuiiez 
depended  for  safety  upon  his  power  of  striking  terror  into  the 
ignorant  sa^^ages.  Ordering  his  arquebusiers  to  the  front,  he 
poured  a  volley  into  the  enemy,  and  then  let  loose  the  blood- 
hounds. The  flash  and  noise  of  the  fire-arms,  and  the  sul- 
phurous smoke  which  was  carried  by  the  vnnd  among  the 
Indians,  overwhelmed  them  with  dismay.  Some  fell  down  in 
a  panic  as  though  they  had  been  struck  by  thunderbolts,  the 
rest  betook  themselves  to  headlong  flight. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  commanded  liis  men  to  refrain  from  needless 
slaughter.  He  made  many  prisoners,  and  on  arriving  at  the 
village,  sent  some  of  them  in  search  of  their  cacique,  accom- 
panied by  several  of  his  Indian  guides.  The  latter  informed 
Cliiapes  of  the  supernatural  power  of  the  Spaniards,  assuring 
him  that  they  exterminated  with  thunder  and  lightning  all 
who  dared  to  oppose  them,  but  loaded  all  such  as  submitted 
to  them  with  benefits.  They  advised  him,  therefore,  to  throw 
himself  upon  their  mercy  and  seek  their  friendship. 

The  cacique  listened  to  their  advice,  and  came  trembling  to 
the  Spaniards,  bringing  with  him  five  hundred  pounds  weight 
of  wrought  gold  as  a  peace  offering,  for  he  had  already  learnt 
the  value  they  set  upon  that  metal.     Vasco  Nuiiez  received 

♦  Vidas  dc  Espanoles  Cfilebres.  por  Don  JTanuel  Josef  Quintana.    Tom.  ii.  p.  40. 


VASCO  NUS'KZ  BE  BALBOA.  ]25 

him  with  great  kindness,  and  graciovisly  accepted  his  gold, 
for  which  he  gave  him  heads,  liawks'  hells,  and  looking-glasses, 
making  him,  in  his  own  conceit,  the  richest  potentate  on  that 
side  oi'  the  mountains. 

Friendship  heing  thus  established  between  them,  Vasco 
Nunez  remained  at  the  village  for  a  few  days,  sending  back 
tlie  guides  who  had  accompanied  him  from  (^uaraqua,  and 
ordering  his  people,  whom  he  had  left  at  that  place,  to  rejoin 
him.  In  the  mean  time  he  sent  out  three  scouting  parties,  of 
twelve  men  each,  under  Francisco  Pizarro,  Juan  de  Escary, 
and  Alonzo  Martin  de  Don  Benito,  to  explore  the  surrounding 
country  and  discover  the  best  route  tt")  the  sea.  Alonzo  Martin 
w^as  the  most  successful.  After  two  days'  journey  he  came  to 
a  beach,  where  he  found  two  large  canoes  lying  high  and  dry, 
without  any  water  being  in  sight.  While  the  Spaniards  were 
regarding  these  canoes,  and  wondering  why  they  should  be  so 
far  on  land,  the  tide,  which  rises  to  a  great  height  on  that 
coast,  came  rapidly  in  and  set  them  afloat ;  upon  this,  Alonzo 
Martin  stopped  into  one  of  them,  and  called  his  companions  to 
bear  witness  that  he  was  the  first  European  that  embarked  upon 
that  sea ;  his  example  was  followed  by  one  Bias  de  Etienza,  who 
called  them  likewise  to  testify  that  ho  was  the  second.* 

We  mention  minute  particulars  of  the  kind  as  being  charac- 
teristic of  these  extraordinary  enterprises,  and  of  the  extra- 
ordinary people  who  undertook  them.  The  humblest  of  these 
Spanish  adventurers  seemed  actviated  by  a  sweUing  and 
ambitious  spirit,  that  rose  superior  at  times  to  mere  sordid 
considerations,  and  aspired  to  share  the  glory  of  these  great 
discoveries.  The  scouting  party  having  thus  explored  a  direct 
route  to  the  sea  coast,  returned  to  report  their  success  to  their 
commander. 

Vasco  Nunez  being  rejoined  by  liis  men  from  Quaraqua,  now 
I  left  the  greater  part  of  his  foUowei-s  to  repose  and  recover  from 
their  sickness  and  fatigues  in  the  village  of  Chiapes,  and, 
taking  with  him  twenty-six  Spaniards,  well  armed,  he  set  oui. 
on  the  twenty-ninth  of  September,  for  the  sea  coast,  accom- 
panied by  the  cacique  and  a  number  of  his  warriore.  The 
thick  forest  which  covered  the  mountains  descend  d  to  the 
very  margin  of  the  sea,  surrounding  and  overshadowing  the 
wide  and  beautiful  bays  that  penetrated  far  into  the  land. 
The  wdiole  coast,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  perfectly 

*  Herrera,  Hist.  Ind.  d.  i.  1.  x.  c.  2. 


126  SPANISH   VOYAGKS   OF  DISCOVERT. 

wild,  the  sea  without  a  sail,  and  both  seemed  never  to  have 
been  under  the  dominion  of  civihzed  man. 

Vasco  JN'uilez  arrived  on  the  borders  of  one  of  those  vast 
bays,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Saint  Michael,  it  being 
discovered  on  that  saint's  day.  The  tide  was  out,  the  water 
was  above  half  a  league  distant,  and  the  intervening  beach 
was  covered  with  mud ;  he  seated  himself,  therefore,  under  the 
shade  of  the  forest  trees  until  the  tide  should  rise.  After  a 
while  the  Avater  came  rushing  in  with  great  impetuosity,  and 
soon  reached  nearly  to  the  place  where  the  Spaniards  were 
reposing.  Upon  this,  Vasco  Nmlez  rose  and  took  a  banner,  on 
which  were  painted  the  Virgin  and  child,  and  under  them  the 
arms  of  Castile  and  Leon;  then  drawmg  his  sword  and  throw- 
ing his  buckler  on  his  shoulder,  he  marched  into  the  sea  until 
the  water  reached  above  his  knees,  and  waving  liis  banner  ex- 
claimed, with  a  loud  voice,  "Long  live  the  high  and  mighty 
monarchs,  Don  Ferdinand  and  Donna  Juanna,  sovereigns  of 
Castile,  of  Leon,  and  of  Arragon,  in  whose  name,  and  for  the 
royal  crown  of  Castile,  I  take  real,  and  corporal,  and  actual 
possession  of  these  seas,  and  lands,  and  coasts,  and  ports,  and 
islands  of  the  South,  and  all  thereunto  annexed;  and  of  the 
kingdoms  and  provinces  which  do  or  may  appertain  to  them 
in  whatever  manner,  or  by  whatever  right  or  title,  ancient  or 
modern,  in  times  past,  present,  or  to  come,  without  any  con- 
tradiction ;  and  if  other  prince  or  captain,  christian  or  infidel, 
or  of  any  law,  sect,  or  condition  whatsoever,  shall  pretend  any 
right  to  these  lands  and  seas,  I  am  readj"-  and  prepared  to 
maintain  and  defend  them  in  the  name  of  the  Castilian  sov- 
ereigns, present  and  future,  whose  is  the  empire  and  dominion 
over  these  Indias,  islands,  and  terra  firma,  northern  and 
southern,  with  all  their  seas,  both  at  the  arctic  and  antarctic 
poles,  on  either  side  of  the  equinoxial  line,  whether  within  or 
Avithout  the  tropics  of  Cancer  and  Capricorn,  both  now  and  in 
all  times,  as  long  as  the  world  endures,  and  until  the  final  day 
of  judgment  of  all  mankind." 

This  sweUing  declaration  and  defiance  being  uttered  with  a 
loud  voice,  and  no  one  appearing  to  dispute  his  pretensions, 
Vasco  Nunez  called  upon  his  companions  to  bear  witness  of  the 
fact  of  his  having  didy  taken  possession.  They  all  declared 
thcniseives  ready  to  defend  his  claim  to  the  uttermost,  as  be- 
came true  and  loyal  vassals  to  the  Castilian  sovereigns ;  and 
the  notary  having  drawn  up  a  document  for  the  occasion,  they 
all  subscribed  it  with  their  names. 


VASCO  NUNEZ  DE  BALBOA.  127 

Tliis  done,  they  advanced  to  the  margin  of  the  sea,  and 
stooping  down  tasted  its  waters.  When  they  found,  that, 
though  severed  by  intervening  mountains  and  continents,  they 
were  salt  Uke  the  seas  of  the  north,  they  felt  assured  that 
they  had  indeed  discovered  an  ocean,  and  again  returned 
thanks  to  God. 

Having  conchided  all  these  ceremonies,  Vasco  Nunez  drew  a 
dagger  from  his  girdle  and  cut  a  cross  on  a  tree  wliich  grew 
within  the  water,  and  made  two  other  crosses  on  two  adjacent 
trees  in  honour  of  the  Three  Persons  of  the  Trinity,  and  in 
token  of  possession.  His  followers  likewise  cut  crosses  on 
many  of  the  trees  of  the  adjacent  forest,  and  lopped  off 
branches  with  their  swords  to  bear  away  as  trophies.  * 

Such  was  the  singular  medley  of  cliivalrons  and  religious 
ceremonial  Avitli  which  these  Spanish  adventurers  took  pos- 
session of  the  vast  Pacific  Ocean,  and  all  its  lands — a  scene 
strongly  characteristic  of  the  nation  and  the  age. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


ADVENTURES  OP  VASCO  NUNEZ  ON  THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  PACIFIC 

OCEAN. 

While  he  made  the  village  of  Chiapes  his  headquarters, 
Vasco  Nufiea  foraged  the  adjacent  country  and  obtained  a 
considerable  quantity  of  gold  from  the  natives.  Encouraged 
by  his  success,  he  undertook  to  explore  by  sea  the  borders  of  a 
neighbouring  gulf  of  gi'eat  extent,  which  penetrated  far  into 
the  land.  The  cacique  Chiapes  warned  him  of  the  danger  of 
venturing  to  sea  in  the  stormy  season,  which  comjirises  the 
months  of  October,  November,  and  December,  assuring  him 
that  he  had  beheld  many  canoes  swallowed  up  in  the  mighty 
waves  and  whirlpools,  which  at  siich  times  render  the  gulf 
almost  unnavigablc. 

These  remonstrances  were  ima vailing:  Vasco  Nunez  ex- 
pressed a  confident  belief  that  God  would  protect  him,  seeing 
that  his  voyage  was  to  redound  to  the  propagation  of  the  faith, 

*  Many  of  the  foregoing  particulars  are  from  the  unpublished  volume  of  Oviedo's 

History  of  the  ludias. 


128  SPAmSU    VOYAGES  OF  DLSCOVERY. 

and  the  augmentation  of  the  power  of  the  Castilian  monarchs 
over  the  infidels ;  and  in  truth  this  bigoted  rehance  on  the  im- 
mediate protection  of  heaven  seems  to  have  been  in  a  great 
measure  the  cause  of  the  extravagant  daring  of  the  Spaniards 
in  their  expeditions  in  those  days,  whether  against  Moors  or 
Indians. 

Seeing  his  representations  of  no  effect,  Chiapes  volunteered 
to  take  part  in  this  perilous  cruise,  lest  he  should  appear  want- 
ing in  coui-age,  or  in  good-will  to  his  guest.  Accompanied 
by  the  cacique,  therefore,  Vasco  Nuiiez  embarked  on  the  17th 
of  October  with  sixty  of  his  men  in  nine  canoes,  managed  by 
Indians,  leaving  the  residue  of  his  followers  to  recruit  their 
health  and  strength  in  the  village  of  Chiapes. 

Scarcely,  however,  had  they  put  forth  on  the  broad  bosom 
of  the  gulf  when  the  wisdom  of  the  cacique's  advice  was  made 
apparent.  The  wind  began  to  blow  freshly,  raising  a  heavy 
and  tumultuous  sea,  which  broke  in  roaring  and  foaming 
surges  on  the  rocks  and  reefs,  and  among  the  numerous  islets 
with  which  the  gxdf  was  studded.  The  light  canoes  were 
deeply  laden  with  men  imskilled  in  their  management.  It  was 
frightful  to  those  in  one  canoe  to  behold  their  companions,  one 
instant  tossed  on  high  on  the  breaking  crest  of  a  wave,  the 
next  plunging  out  of  sight,  as  if  swallowed  in  a  watery  abyss, 
The  Indians  themselves,  though  almost  amphibious  in  their 
habits,  showed  signs  of  consternation ;  for  amidst  these  rocks 
and  breakers  even  the  skill  of  the  expert  swimmer  would  be 
of  little  avail.  At  length  the  Indians  succeeded  in  tying  the 
canoes  in  pairs,  side  by  side,  to  prevent  their  being  overturned, 
and  in  this  way  they  kept  afloat,  until  towards  evening  they 
were  enabled  to  reach  a  small  island.  Here  they  landed,  and 
fastening  the  canoes  to  the  rocks,  or  to  small  trees  that  grew 
upon  the  shore,  they  sought  an  elevated  dry  place,  and 
stretched  themselves  to  take  repose.  They  had  but  escaped 
from  one  danger  to  encounter  another.  Having  been  for  a 
long  time  accustomed  to  the  sea  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
isthmus,  where  there  is  little,  if  any,  rise  or  fall  of  the  tide, 
they  had  neglected  to  take  any  precaution  against  such  an  oc- 
currence. In  a  httle  while  they  were  awakened  from  their 
sleep  by  the  rapid  rising  of  the  water.  They  shifted  their  sit- 
uation to  a  higher  gi'ound,  but  the  waters  continued  to  gain 
upon  them,  the  breakers  rushing  and  roaring  and  foaming 
upon  the  beach  like  so  many  monsters  of  the  deep  seeking  for 
their  prey.     Nothing,  it  is  said,  can  be  more  dismal  and  ap- 


VASCO  NUNEZ  DE  BALBOA.  129 

palling  than  the  sullen  hollowing  of  the  sea  among  the  islands 
of  that  gulf  at  the  rising  'and  falling  of  the  tide.  By  degi'ees, 
rock  after  rock,  and  c^ne  sand  bank  after  another  disappeared, 
until  the  sea  covered  the  whole  island,  and  rose  almost  to  the 
girdles  of  the  Spaniards.  Their  situation  was  now  agoni^iing. 
A  little  more  and  the  waters  would  overwhelm  them;  or,  even 
as  it  was,  the  least  surge  might  break  over  them  and  sweep 
them  fi'om  their  unsteady  footing.  Fortunately  the  wind  had 
lulled,  and  the  sea,  having  risen  above  the  rocks  which  had 
fretted  it.  was  cahn.  The  tide  had  reached  its  height  and 
began  to  subside,  and  after  a  time  they  heard  the  retiring 
■waves  beating  against  the  rocks  below  them. 

When  the  day  dawned  they  sought  their  canoes ;  but  here  a 
sad  spectacle  met  theu'  eyes.  Some  were  broken  to  ])ieces, 
others  yawning  open  in  many  parts.  The  clothing  and  food 
left  in  them  had  been  waslied  away,  and  replaced  by  sand  and 
water.  The  Spaniards  gazed  on  the  scene  in  mute  despair; 
they  Avere  faint  and  weary,  and  needed  food  and  repose,  but 
famine  and  labour  awaited  them,  even  if  they  should  escape 
with  their  Hves.  Vasco  Nuiiez,  however,  rallied  their  sjDirits, 
and  set  them  an  example  by  iiis  own  cheerful  exertions.  Obey- 
ing his  directions,  they  set  to  work  to  i-epair,  in  the  best  man- 
ner they  were  able,  the  damages  of  the  canoes.  Such  as  were 
not  too  much  shattered  they  bound  and  braced  up  with  their 
girdles,  Avith  slips  of  the  bark  of  trees,  or  with  the  tough  long 
stalks  of  certain  sea-weeds.  They  then  peeled  off  the  bark 
from  the  small  sea  plants,  pounded  it  between  stones,  and  mixed 
it  with  grass,  and  vvith  this  endeavoured  to  caulk  tlie  seams 
and  stop  the  leaks  that  remained.  When  they  re-emborked, 
their  numbers  weighed  down  the  canoes  almost  to  the  water's 
edge,  and  as  they  rose  and  sank  with  the  swelling  waves  there 
■WHS  danger  of  their  being  swallowed  up.  All  day  they  labom-ed 
with  the  sea,  suffering  excessively  from  the  pangs  Of  himger 
and  thirst,  and  at  nightfall  they  landed  in  a  comer  of  the  gulf, 
near  the  abode  of  a  cacique  named  Tiimaco.  Leaving  a  part  of 
his  men  to  guard  the  canoes,  Vasco  Nunez  set  out  wnth  the 
residue  for  the  Indian  toAvn.  He  arrived  there  about  midnight, 
but  the  inhabitants  were  on  the  alert  to  defend  their  haliita- 
tions.  The  fire-arms  and  dogs  soon  put  them  to  flight,  and  the 
Spaniards  pursuing  them  with  their  swords,  drove  them  howl- 
ing into  the  Avoods.  In  the  village  were  found  provisions  in 
abundance,  beside  a  considerable  amount  of  gold  and  a  great 
quantity  of  pearls,  many  of  them  of  a  large  size.     In  the  house 


130  SrANISlI   VOYAOES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

of  tlie  cacique  were  several  huge  shells  of  mother-of-pearl,  and 
four  pearl  oysters  quite  fresh,  which  "showed  that  there  was  a 
pearl  fishery  in  the  neighbourhood.  Eager  to  learn  the  sources 
of  this  wealth,  Vasco  Nunez  sent  several  of  the  Indians  of 
Chiapes  in  search  of  the  cacique,  who  traced  him  to  a  wild  re- 
treat among  the  rocks.  By  their  persuasions  Tiimaco  sent  his 
son,  a  fine  young  savage,  as  a  mediator.  The  latter  returned 
to  his  father  loaded  with  presents,  and  extolling  the  benignity 
of  these  superhuman  beings,  who  had  shown  themselves  so  ter- 
rible in  battle.  By  these  means,  and  hy  a  mutual  exchange  of 
presents,  a  friendly  intercourse  was  soon  established.  Among 
other  things  the  cacique  gave  Vasco  Nuiiez  jewels  of  gold 
weighing  six  hundred  and  fourteen  crowns,  and  two  hundred 
pearls  of  great  size  and  beauty,  excepting  that  they  were  some- 
what discoloured  in  consequence  of  the  oysters  having  been 
opened  by  fire. 

The  cacique  seeing  the  value  which  the  Spaniards  set  upon 
the  pearls,  sent  a  number  of  his  men  to  fish  for  them  at  a  place 
about  ten  miles  distant.  Certain  of  the  Indians  were  trained 
from  their  youth  to  this  purpose,  so  as  to  become  expert  divers, 
and  to  acquire  the  power  of  remaining  a  long  time  beneath  the 
water.  The  largest  pearls  are  generally  found  in  the  deepest 
waters,  sometimes  in  three  and  four  fathoms,  and  are  only 
sought  in  calm  weather;  the  smaller  sort  are  found  at  the 
depth  of  two  and  three  feet,  and  the  oysters  containing  them 
are  often  driven  in  quantities  on  the  beach  during  violent 
storms. 

The  party  of  pearl  divers  sent  by  the  cacique  consisted  of 
thirty  Indians,  with  whom  Vasco  Nuiiez  sent  six  Spaniards  as 
eye-witnesses.  The  sea,  however,  was  so  furious  at  that 
stormy  season  that  the  divers  dared  not  ventui-e  into  the  deep 
water.  Such  a  number  of  the  shell-fish,  however,  had  been 
driven  on  shore,  that  they  collected  enough  to  yield  pearls  to 
the  value  of  twelve  marks  of  gold.  They  were  small,  but  ex- 
ceedingly beautifid,  being  newly  taken  and  uninjured  by  fire. 
A  nvimber  of  these  shell-fish  and  their  pearls  were  selected  to 
be  sent  to  Spain  as  specimens. 

In  reply  to  the  inquiries  of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  the  cacique  informed 
him  that  the  coast  which  he  saw  stretching  to  the  Avest  con- 
tinued onwards  without  end,  and  that  far  to  the  south  there 
was  a  country  abounding  in  gold,  where  the  inhabitants  made 
use  of  certain  quadrupeds  to  carry  burthens.  He  moulded  a 
figure  of  clay  to  represent  these  animals,  which  some  of  the 


VASCO  2iU^EZ  DE  BALBOA.  Hji 

Spaniards  supposed  to  be  a  deer,  others  a  camel,  others  a  tapir, 
for  as  yet  they  knew  nothing  of  the  lama,  the  native  beast  of 
burthen  of  South  America.  This  was  the  second  intimation 
received  by  Vasco  Nunez  of  the  great  empire  of  Peru ;  and, 
while  it  confirmed  all  that  had  been  told  him  by  the  son  of 
C'omagi-e,  it  filled  him  witli  glowing  anticipations  of  the  glori- 
ous triumphs  that  awaited  him. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


FURTHER  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLOITS  OF  VASCO  NUNEZ  ON  THE 
BORDERS  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 

Lest  any  ceremonial  should  be  wanting  to  secure  this  grand 
discovery  to  the  crown  of  Spain,  Vasco  Nunez  determined  to 
saUy  from  the  gulf  and  take  possession  of  the  main  land  be- 
yond. The  cacique  Tumaco  furnished  him  with  a  canoe  of 
state,  formed  from  the  l!rimk  of  an  enoiTQous  tree,  and  managed 
by  a  great  number  of  Indians.  The  handles  of  the  paddles 
were  inlaid  with  small  pearls,  a  circumstance  Avhich  Vasco 
Nuiiez  caused  his  companions  to  testify  before  the  notary,  that 
it  might  be  reported  to  the  sovereigns  as  a  proof  of  the  wealth 
of  this  newly  discovered  sea.  * 

Departing  in  the  canoe  on  the  29th  of  October,  he  was  pUoted 
cautiously  by  the  Indians  along  the  borders  of  the  giilf,  over 
drowned  lands  where  the  sea  was  fringed  by  inundated  forests 
and  as  still  as  a  pool.  Arrived  at  the  point  of  the  gulf,  Vasco 
Nuiiez  landed  on  a  smooth  sandy  beach,  laved  by  the  waters 
of  the  broad  ocean,  and,  with  buckler  on  arm,  sword  in  hand, 
and  banner  displayed,  again  marched  into  the  sea  and  took 
possession  of  it,  with  like  ceremonials  to  those  observed  in  the 
Gulf  of  St.  :Michaers. 

The  Indians  now  pointed  to  a  lino  of  land  rising  above  the 
horizon  about  four  or  five  leagues  distant,  which  they  described 
as  being  a  great  island,  the  principal  one  of  an  archipelago. 
The  whole  group  abounded  with  pearls,  but  those  taken  on  the 
coasts  of  this  island  were  represented  as  being  of  immense  size, 
many  of  them  as  large  as  a  man's  eye,  and  found  in  shell-fish  as 

•  Ovledo,  Hist.  Gen.  p.  2,  MS. 


132  SPANJSir   VOYAGIiJS   OF  DISCOVERY. 

big  as  bucklere.  This  island  and  the  surrounding  cluster  of 
small  ones,  they  added,  were  under  the  dominion  of  a  tyranni- 
cal and  i^uissant  cacique,  who  often,  during  the  calm  seasons, 
made  descents  upon  the  main  land  with  fleets  of  canoes,  plun- 
dering and  desolatmg  the  coasts,  and  carrying  the  people  into 
captivity. 

Vasco  Nmlez  gazed  with  an  eager  and  wistful  eye  at  this 
land  of  riches,  and  would  have  immediately  undertaken  an  ex- 
pedition to  it,  had  not  the  Indians  represented  the  danger  of 
venturing  on  such  a  voyage  in  that  tempestuous  season  in  their 
frail  canoes.  His  own  recent  experience  convinced  him  of  the 
wisdom  of  their  remonstrances.  He  postponed  his  visit,  there- 
fore, to  a  future  occasion,  when,  he  assured  his  allies,  he  would 
avenge  them  upon  this  tyrant  invader,  and  dehver  their  coasts 
from  his  maraudings.  In  the  mean  time  he  gave  to  this  island 
the  name  of  Isla  Rica,  and  the  little  archipelago  surrounding  it 
the  general  appellation  of  the  Pearl  Islands. 

On  the  third  of  November  Vasco  Nuiiez  departed  from  the 
provi.ice  of  Tumaco,  to  visit  other  parts  of  the  coast.  He  em- 
barked with  his  men  in  the  canoes,  accompanied  by  Chiapes 
and  his  Indians,  and  guided  by  the  son  of  Tumaco,  who  had 
become  strongly  attached  to  the  Spaniards.  The  young  man 
pUoted  them  along  an  arm  of  the  sea,  wide  in  some  places,  but 
in  others  obstructed  by  groves  of  mangrove  trees,  which  grew 
witliin  the  water  and  interlaced  their  branches  from  shore  to 
shore,  so  that  at  times  the  Spaniards  were  obHged  to  cut  a  pas- 
sage with  their  swords. 

At  length  they  entered  a  great  and  turbulent  river,  which 
they  ascended  with  difficulty,  and  early  the  next  morning 
surprised  a  village  on  its  banks,  making  the  cacique  Teao- 
chan  prisoner ;  who  purchased  their  favour  and  kind  treatment 
by  a  quantity  of  gold  and  pearls,  and  an  abundant  supply  of 
provisions.  As  it  was  the  intention  of  Vasco  Nunez  to  aban- 
don the  shores  of  the  Southern  Ocean  at  this  place,  and  to 
strike  across  the  mountains  for  Darien,  he  took  leave  of 
Chiapes  and  of  the  youthful  son  of  Tumaco,  who  were  to  re- 
turn to  their  houses  in  the  canoes.  He  sent  at  the  same  time 
a  message  to  his  men,  whom  he  had  left  in  the  village  of 
Chiapes,  appointing  a  place  in  the  mountains  where  they  were 
to  rejoin  him  on  his  way  back  to  Darien. 

The  talent  of  Vasco  Nunez  for  conciliating  and  winning  the 
good-AviU  of  the  savages  is  often  mentioned,  and  to  such  a  de- 
gree had  he  exerted  it  in  the  present  instance,  that  the  two 


VASCO   NVI^EZ  BE  BALBOA.  ]33 

chieftains  shed  tears  at  parting.  Their  conduct  had  a  favour- 
able effect  upon  the  cacique  Tcaochan ;  he  entertained  Vasco 
Nunez  with  the  most  devoted  hospitality  during  three  days 
that  he  remained  in  his  village ;  when  about  to  depart  he  fur- 
nished him  with  a  stock  of  provisions  sufficient  for  several 
days,  as  his  route  would  lay  over  rocky  and  sterile  mountains. 
He  sent  also  a  numerous  band  of  his  subjects  to  carry  the  bur- 
thens of  the  Spaniards.  These  he  placed  under  the  command 
of  his  sou,  whom  he  ordered  never  to  separate  from  the  stran- 
gers, nor  to  permit  any  of  his  men  to  return  without  the  con- 
sent of  Vasco  Nunez. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


VASOO  ntjSez  sets  out  on  his  return  across  the  mountains 

— HIS  CONTESTS  WITH  THE  SAVAGES. 

Turning  their  backs  upon  the  Southern  Sea,  the  Spaniards 
now  began  painfully  to  clamber  the  rugged  mountains  on  their 
return  to  Darien. 

In  the  early  part  of  their  route  an  unlooked-for  suffering 
awaited  them :  there  was  neither  brook  nor  fountain  nor  stand- 
ing pool.  The  burning  heat,  which  produced  intolerable  thirst, 
had  dried  up  all  the  mountain  torrents,  and  they  were  tanta- 
lized by  the  sight  of  naked  and  dusty  channels  where  water 
had  once  flowed  in  abundance.  Their  sufferings  at  length  in- 
creased to  such  a  height  that  many  threw  themselves  levered 
and  panting  upon  the  earth,  and  were  ready  to  give  up  the 
ghost.  The  Indians,  howcvej-,  encouraged  them  to  proceed, 
by  hopes  of  speedy  rehef,  and  after  a  while,  turning  aside 
from  the  direct  course,  led  them  into  a  deep  and  nan-ow  glen, 
refreshed  and  cooled  by  a  fountain  which  bubbled  out  of  a  cleft 
of  the  rocks. 

While  refreshing  themselves  at  the  fountain,  and  reposing  in 
the  Kttle  valley,  they  learnt  from  their  guides  that  they  were 
in  the  ten-itories  of  a  powerful  chief  named  Pon^^ra,  famous 
for  his  riches.  The  Spaniards  had  already  heard  of  the  golden 
stores  of  this  Croesus  of  the  mountains,  and  being  now  re- 
freshed and  invigorated,  pressed  forward  with  eagerness  for 
his  village. 


134  SPANISH   TOY  AGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

The  cacique  and  most  of  his  people  fled  at  their  approach, 
but  they  found  an  earnest  of  his  wealth  in  the  deserted  houses, 
amounting  to  the  value  of  three  thousand  crowns  in  gold. 
Their  avarice  thus  whetted,  they  despatched  Indians  in  search 
of  Poncra,  who  found  him  trembling  in  his  secret  retreat,  and 
partly  by  threats,  partly  by  promises,  prevailed  upon  him  and 
three  of  his  principal  subjects  to  come  to  Vasco  Nunez.  He 
was  a  savage,  it  is  said,  so  hateful  of  aspect,  so  misshapen  in 
body  and  deformed  in  all  liis  members,  that  he  was  hideous  to 
behold.  The  Spaniards  endeavoured  by  gentle  means  to  draw 
from  him  information  of  the  places  from  whence  he  had  pro- 
cured his  gold.  He  jDrofessed  utter  ignorance  in  the  matter, 
declaring  that  the'  gold  found  in  liis  village  had  been  gathered 
by  his  predecessors  in  tunes  long  past,  and  that  as  he  hunself 
set  no  value  on  the  metal,  he  had  never  troubled  himscLE  to 
seek  it.  The  Spaniards  resorted  to  menaces,  and  even,  it  is 
said,  to  tortures,  to  compel  him  to  betray  his  reputed  treasures, 
but  with  no  better  success.  Disappointed  in  their  expecta- 
tions, and  enraged  at  his  supposed  obstmacy,  they  listened  too 
readily  to  charges  advanced  against  him  by  certain  caciques 
of  the  neighbouiiiood,  who  represented  him  as  a  monster  of 
cruelty,  and  as  guilty  of  crimes  repugnant  to  nature  ;*  where- 
upon, in  the  heat  of  the  moment,  they  gave  him  and  his  three 
coiupanions,  who  were  said  to  be  equally  guilty,  to  be  torn  in 
pieces  by  the  dogs. — A  rash  and  cruel  sentence,  given  on  the 
evidence  of  avowed  enemies ;  and  which,  however  it  may  be 
palliated  by  the  alleged  horror  and  disgust  of  the  Spaniards  at 
the  imputed  crimes  of  the  cacique,  bears  too  much  the  stamp 
of  haste  and  passion,  and  remains  a  foul  blot  on  the  character 
of  Vasco  Nuiiez. 

The  Spaniards  remained  for  thirty  days  reposing  in  the  vil- 
lage of  the  unfortunate  Poncra,  during  which  time  they  were 
rejoined  by  their  companions,  who  had  been  left  behind  at  the 
village  of  Chiapes.  They  were  accompanied  by  a  cacique  of 
the  mountains,  who  had  lodged  and  fed  them,  and  made  them, 
presents  of  the  value  of  two  thousand  crowns  in  gold.  This 
hospitable  savage  approached  Vasco  Nuiiez  with  a  serene 
countenance,  and  taking  him  by  the  hand,  "Behold,"  said  he, 
"  most  valiant  and  powerful  chief,  I  bring  thee  thy  companions 
safe  and  well,  as  they  entered  under  my  roof.  May  he  who 
made  the  thunder  and  lightning,  and  who  gives  us  the  fruits 

*  p.  Martyr,  d.  iii.  c.  2. 


VAisCO  NUS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  135 

of  the  earth,  preserve  thee  and  thine  in  safety !"  So  saying, 
he  raised  his  eyes  to  the  sun,  as  if  he  worshipped  that  as  his 
deity  and  the  dispenser  of  all  temporal  blessings.* 

Departing  from  this  village,  and  being  still  accompanied  by 
the  Indians  of  Teaochan,  the  Spaniards  now  bent  their  course 
along  the  banks  of  the  river  Comagre,  which  descends  the 
northern  side  of  the  Isthmus,  and  flows  through  the  territories 
of  the  cacique  of  the  same  name.  This  wild  stream,  which 
in  the  course  of  ages  had  worn  a  channel  through  the  deep 
clefts  and  ravines  of  the  mountains,  was  bordered  by  preci- 
pices, or  overhung  by  shagged  forests;  they  soon  abandoned 
it,  therefore,  and  wandered  on  without  any  path,  but  guided 
by  the  Indians.  They  had  to  climb  terrible  precipices,  and  to 
descend  into  deep  valleys,  darkened  by  thick  forests  and  beset 
by  treacherous  morasses,  where,  but  for  their  guides,  they 
might  have  been  smothered  in  the  mire. 

In  the  course  of  this  rugged  journey  they  suffered  excessive- 
ly in  consequence  of  their  own  avarice.  They  had  been  warned 
of  the  sterility  of  the  country  they  were  about  to  traverse,  and 
of  the  necessity  of  providing  amply  for  the  journey.  When  they 
came  to  lade  the  Indians,  however,  who  bore  their  burdens, 
their  only  thought  was  how  to  convey  the  most  treasiu'o ;  and 
they  gi'udged  even  a  slender  supply  of  pro\asions,  as  taking  up 
the  place  of  an  equal  weight  of  gold.  The  consequences  were 
soon  felt.  The  Indians  could  carry  but  small  burthens,  and  at 
the  same  time  assisted  to  consume  the  scanty  stock  of  food 
which  formed  part  of  their  load.  Scarcity  and  famine  ensued, 
and  relief  was  rarely  to  be  procured,  for  the  villages  on  this 
elevated  part  of  the  mountains  were  scattered  and  poor,  and 
nearly  destitute  of  provisions.  They  held  no  connnunication 
with  each  other ;  each  contenting  itself  with  the  scanty  prod- 
uce of  its  own  fields  and  forest.  Some  were  entirely  deserted ; 
at  other  places,  the  inhabitants,  forced  from  their  retreats, 
implored  pardon,  and  declared  they  had  hidden  themselves 
through  shame,  not  ha\ing  the  means  of  properly  entertaining 
such  celestial  visitors.  They  brought  peace-offerings  of  gold, 
but  no  provisions.  For  once  the  Spaniards  found  that  even 
their  darling  gold  could  fail  to  cheer  their  drooping  spirits. 
Their  sufferings  from  hunger  became  intense,  and  many  of 
their  Indian  companions  sank  down  and  perished  by  the  way. 
At  length  they  reached  a  village  where  they  were  enabled  to 

*  Herrera,  d.  i.  1.  x.  c.  4. 


136  SPANJSII   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

obtain  supplies,  and  where  they  remained  thirty  days,  to  re- 
cruit their  wasted  strength. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


ENTERPRISE  AGAINST  TUBANAMA,  THE  WARLIKE  CACIQUE  OF  THE 
MOUNTAINS — RETURN  TO  DARIEN. 

The  Spaniards  had  now  to  pass  through  the  territories  of 
Tubanama,  the  most  potent  and  warhke  cacique  of  the  moun- 
tains. This  was  the  same  chieftain  of  whom  a  formidable 
character  had  been  given  by  the  young  Indian  prince,  who 
first  informed  Vasco  Nunez  of  the  southern  sea.  He  had  erro- 
neously represented  the  dominions  of  Tubanama  as  lying  be- 
yond the  mountains ;  and,  when  he  dwelt  upon  the  quantities 
of  gold  to  be  found  in  them,  had  magnified  the  dangers  that 
would  attend  any  attempt  to  pass  their  borders.  The  name  of 
this  redoubtable  cacique  was,  in  fact,  a  terror  throughout  the 
country ;  and,  when  Vasco  Nunez  looked  roimd  upon  his  hand- 
ful of  pale  and  emaciated  followers,  he  doubted  whether  even 
the  superiority  of  their  weapons  and  their  military  skill  would 
enable  them  to  cope  with  Tubanama  and  his  armies  in  open 
contest.  He  resolved,  therefore,  to  venture  upon  a  perilous 
stratagem.  When  he  made  it  known  to  his  men,  every  one 
pressed  forward  to  engage  in  it.  Choosing  seventy  of  the  most 
vigorous,  he  ordered  the  rest  to  maintain  their  post  in  the  vil- 
lage. 

As  soon  as  night  had  fallen,  he  departed  silently  and  secretly 
with  his  chosen  band  and  made  his  way  with  such  rapidity 
through  the  labyrinths  of  the  forests  and  the  defiles  of  the 
mountains  that  he  arrived  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  resi- 
dence of  Tubanama  by  the  following  evening,  though  at  the 
distance  of  two  regular  days'  journey. 

There,  waiting  until  midnight,  he  assailed  the  village  sud- 
denly and  with  success,  so  as  to  surprise  and  capture  the 
cacique  and  his  whole  family,  in  which  were  eighty  females. 
When  Tubanama  found  himself  a  prisoner  in  the  hands  of  the 
Spaniards,  he  lost  all  presence  of  mind  and  wept  bitterly.  The 
Indian  allies  of  Vasco  Nunez,  beholding  their  once-dreaded 
enemy  thus  fallen  and  captive,  now  urged  that  he  should  be 


VASCO  NUStEZ  VE  BALBOA.  137 

put  to  death,  accn""ing  him  of  various  crimes  and  cruelties. 
Vasco  Nunez  pretended  to  listen  to  their  prayers,  and  gave 
orders  that  his  captive  should  be  tied  hand  and  foot  and  given 
to  the  dogs.  The  cacique  approached  him  trembling,  and  laid 
his  hand  upon  the  pommel  of  his  sword.  "Who  can  pretend," 
said  he,  "  to  strive  with  one  who  bears  this  weapon,  which  can 
cleave  a  man  asunder  with  a  blow  t  Ever  since  thy  fame  has 
reached  among  these  mountains  have  I  reverenced  thy  valour. 
Spare  my  life  and  thou  shalt  have  all  the  gold  I  can  procure. " 

Vasco  Nuiiez,  whose  anger  was  assumed,  was  readily  paci- 
fied. As  soon  as  the  day  dawned  the  cacique  gave  him  arm- 
lets and  other  jewels  of  gold  to  the  value  of  three  thousand 
crowns,  and  sent  messengers  throughout  his  dominions  order- 
ing his  subjects  to  aid  in  paying  his  ransom.  The  poor  In- 
dians, with  their  accustomed  loyalty,  hastened  in  crowds, 
bringing  their  golden  ornaments,  until,  in  the  course  of  three 
days,  they  had  produced  an  amount  equal  to  six  thousand 
crowns.  This  done,  Vasco  Nuiiez  set  the  cacique  at  liberty, 
bestowing  on  him  several  European  trinkets,  with  which  he 
considered  himself  richer  than  he  had  been  with  all  his  gold. 
Nothing  would  draw  from  him,  however,  the  disclosure  of  the 
mines  from  whence  tliis  treasure  was  procured.  He  declared 
that  it  came  from  the  ten*itories  of  his  neighbours,  where  gold 
and  pearls  were  to  be  found  in  abundance ;  but  that  his  lands 
produced  nothing  of  the  kind.  Vasco  Nunez  doubted  his  sin- 
cerity, and  secretly  caused  the  brooks  and  rivers  in  his  domin- 
ions to  be  searched,  where  gold  was  found  in  such  quantities, 
that  he  determined  at  a  future  time  to  found  two  settlements 
in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  parting  with  Tubanama,  the  cacique  sent  his  son  with  the 
Spaniards  to  learn  their  language  and  religion.  It  is  said,  also, 
that  the  Spaniards  carried  off  his  eighty  women ;  but  of  this  par- 
ticular fact,  Oviedo,  who  writes  -with  the  papers  of  Vasco  Nuiiez 
before  him,  says  nothing.  Ho  affirms  generally,  however,  that 
the  Spaniards,  throughout  this  expedition,  were  not  scrupulous 
in  their  dealings  with  the  wives  and  daughters  of  the  Indians; 
and  adds  that  in  this  their  commander  set  them  the  example.* 

Having  returned  to  the  village,  where  he  had  left  the  greater 
part  of  his  men,  Vasco  Nunez  resumed  his  homeward  march. 
His  people  were  feeble  and  exhausted  and  several  of  them  sick, 
60  that  some  had  to  be  carried  and  others  led  by  the  arms.    He 

♦Oviedo,  Hist.  Gen.  Part  n.  c.  4,  MS. 


138  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

himself  was  part  of  the  time  afflicted  by  a  fever,  and  had  to  be 
borne  in  a  hammock  on  the  shoulders  of  the  Indians. 

Proceeding  thus  slowly  and  toilfiilly,  they  at  length  arrived 
on  the  northern  sea-coast,  at  the  territories  of  their  ally,  Co- 
magre.  The  old  cacique  was  dead  and  had  been  succeeded  by 
his  son,  the  same  intelligent  youth  who  had  first  given  infor- 
mation of  the  southern  sea  and  the  kingdom  of  Peru.  The 
young  chief,  who  had  embraced  Christianity,  received  them 
with  great  hospitality,  making  them  presents  of  gold.  Vasco 
Nunez  gave  him  trinkets  in  return  and  a  shirt  and  a  soldier's 
cloak ;  with  which,  says  Peter  Martyr,  he  thought  himself  half 
a  god  among  his  naked  countrymen.  After  having  reposed  for 
a  few  days,  Vasco  Nuiiez  proceeded  to  Ponca,  where  he  heard 
that  a  ship  and  caravel  had  arrived  at  Darien  from  Hispaniola 
with  reinforcements  and  supphes.  Hastening,  therefore,  to 
Coyba,  the  territories  of  his  ally,  Careta,  he  embarked  on  the 
18th  of  January,  1514,  with  twenty  of  his  men,  in  the  brigan- 
tine  which  he  had  left  there,  and  arrived  at  Santa  Maria  de  la 
Antigua  in  the  river  of  Darien  on  the  following  day.  All  the 
inhabitants  came  forth  to  receive  him ;  and,  when  they  heard 
the  news  of  the  great  southern  sea,  and  of  his  returning  from 
its  shores  laden  with  pearls  and  gold,  there  were  no  bounds  to 
their  joy.  He  immediately  despatched  the  ship  and  caravel  to 
Coyba  for  the  companions  he  had  left  behind,  who  brought 
with  them  the  remaining  booty,  consisting  of  gold  and  pearls, 
mantles,  hammocks,  and  other  articles  of  cotton,  and  a  great 
number  of  captives  of  both  sexes.  A  fifth  of  the  spoil  was  set 
apart  for  the  crown ;  the  rest  was  shared,  in  just  proportions, 
among  those  wlio  had  been  in  the  expedition  and  those  who 
had  remained  at  Darien.  All  were  contented  with  their  allot- 
ment, and  elated  with  the  prospect  of  stUl  gi-eater  gain  from 
future  enterprises. 

Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  remarkable  expeditions  of  the 
early  discoverers.  The  intrepidity  of  Vasco  Nuiiez  in  pene- 
trating with  a  handful  of  men  far  into  the  interior  of  a  wild 
and  mountainous  country,  peopled  by  warlike  tribes :  his  skill 
in  managing  his  band  of  rough  adventurers,  stimulating  their 
valour,  enforcing  their  obedience,  and  attaching  their  affec- 
tions, show  him  to  have  possessed  great  qualities  as  a  general. 
We  are  told  that  he  was  always  foremost  in  peril  and  the  last 
to  quit  the  field.  He  shared  the  toUs  and  dangers  of  the  mean- 
est of  his  followers,  treating  them  with  frank  affability ;  watch- 
ing, fighting,  fasting,  and  labouring  with  them;  visiting  and 


VASCO  NVSEZ  DE  BALBOA.  139 

consoling  such  as  were  sick  or  infirm,  and  dividing  all  his 
gains  with  iairness  and  liberality.  He  was  chargeable  at  times 
with  acts  of  bloodshed  and  injustice,  but  it  is  probable  that 
these  were  often  called  for  as  measures  of  safety  and  precau- 
tion ;  he  certainly  offended  less  against  humanity  than  most  of 
the  early  discoverers;  and  the  unbounded  amity  and  confi- 
dence reposed  in  him  by  the  natives,  when  they  became  inti- 
mately acquainted  ^vith  his  character,  speak  strongly  in 
favour  of  his  kind  treatment  of  them. 

The  character  of  Vasco  Nunez  had,  in  fact,  risen  with  his 
cii'cumstances,  and  now  assumed  a  nobleness  and  grandeur 
from  the  discovery  he  had  made,  and  the  important  charge  it 
had  devolved  ujion  him.  He  no  longer  felt  himself  a  mere 
soldier  of  fortune,  at  the  head  of  a  band  of  adventurers,  but  a 
gi'eat  commander  conducting  an  immortal  enterprise,  "Be- 
hold," says  old  Peter  Martyr,  "Vasco  Nufiez  de  Balboa,  at 
once  transformed  from  a  rash  royster  to  a  politic  and  discreet 
captain:"  and  thus  it  is  that  men  are  often  made  by  their  for- 
tunes; that  is  to  SEiY,  their  latent  quahties  are  brought  out, 
and  shaped  and  strengthened  by  events,  and  by  the  necessity 
of  every  exertion  to  cope  with  the  greatness  of  then-  destiny. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


TRANSACTIONS  IN  SPAIN — PEDRARIAS  DAVILA  APPOINTED  TO  THE 
COMMAND  OF  DARIEN— TIDINGS  RECEIVED  IN  SPAIN  OF  THE 
DISCOVERY  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 

Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa  now  flattered  himself  that  he  had 
made  a  discovery  calculated  to  silence  all  his  enemies  at  court, 
and  to  elevate  him  to  the  highest  favour  -w-ith  his  sovereign. 
He  wrote  letters  to  the  king,  giving  a  detail  of  his  expedition, 
and  setting  forth  all  that  ho  had  seen  or  heard  of  this  Southern 
Sea,  and  of  the  rich  coimtries  upon  its  borders.  Beside  the 
royal  fifths  of  the  profits  of  the  expedition,  he  prepared  a 
present  for  the  sovereign,  in  the  name  of  himself  and  his  com- 
panions, consisting  of  the  largest  and  most  precious  pearls 
they  had  collected.  As  a  trusty  and  intelligent  envoy  to  bear 
these  tidings,  ho  chose  Pedro  de  Arbolancha,  an  old  and  tried 
friend,  who  had  accompanied  him  in  his  toils  and  dangers, 
and  was  well  acquainted  with  all  liis  transactions. 


140  S^A^'^ISII   VOYAGKS  OF  DISCOVERT. 

The  fate  of  Vasco  Nunez  furnishes  a  striking  instance  ho^v* 
prosperity  and  advereity,  how  even  hfe  and  death  hang  bal* 
anced  upon  a  point  of  time,  and  are  aflPectcd  by  the  improve* 
ment  or  neglect  of  moments.  Unfortunately,  the  ship  which 
was  to  convey  the  messenger  to  Spain  lingered  in  port  until 
the  beginning  of  March ;  a  delay  which  had  a  fatal  influence 
on  the  fortunes  of  Vasco  Nuiiez.  It  is  necessary  here  to  cast 
an  eye  back  upon  the  events  which  had  taken  place  in  Spain 
while  he  was  employed  m  his  conquests  and  discoveries. 

The  Bachelor  Enciso  had  arrived  in  Castile  full  of  his  wrongs 
and  indignities.  He  had  friends  at  court,  who  aided  liim  in 
gaining  a  ready  hearing,  and  he  lost  not  a  moment  in  availing 
himself  of  it.  He  declaimed  eloquently  upon  the  alleged  usur- 
pation of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  and  represented  him  as  governing  the 
colony  by  force  and  fraud.  It  was  in  vain  that  the  Alcalde 
Zamudio,  the  ancient  colleague  and  the  envoy  of  Vasco  Nunez, 
attempted  to  speak  in  his  defence ;  he  was  unable  to  cope  with 
the  facts  and  arguments  of  the  Bachelor,  who  was  a  pleader 
by  profession,  and  now  pleaded  his  own  cause.  The  king  de- 
termined to  send  a  new  governor  to  Darien  with  power  to  in- 
quire into  and  remedy  all  abuses.  For  this  oflBce  he  chose 
Don  Pedro  Arias  Davila,  commonly  called  Pedrarias.*  He 
was  a  native  of  Segovia,  who  had  been  brought  up  in  the  royal 
household,  .and  iiad  distinguished  himself  as  a  brave  soldier, 
both  m  the  war  in  Granada  and  at  the  taking  of  Oran  and 
Bugia  in  Africa.  He  possessed  those  personal  accomplish- 
ments which  captivate  the  soldiery,  and  was  called  el  Golan, 
for  his  gallant  array  and  courtly  demeanour,  and  el  Justador, 
or  the  Tilter,  for  his  dexterity  in  jousts  and  tournaments. 
These,  it  must  be  admitted,  were  not  the  qualifications  most 
adapted  for  the  government  of  rude  and  factious  colonies  in  a 
wilderness;  but  he  had  an  all-powerfid  friend  in  the  Bishop 
Fonseca.  The  Bishop  was  as  thoroughgoing  in  patronage  as 
in  pereecution.  He  assured  the  king  that  Pedrarias  had  un- 
derstanding equal  to  his  valour;  that  he  was  as  capable  of 
managing  the  affau's  of  peace  as  of  war,  and  that,  having  been 
brought  up  in  the  royal  household,  his  loyalty  might  be  im- 
pHcitly  relied  on. 

Scarcely  had  Don  Pedrarias  been  appointed,  when  Cayzedo 
and  Colmenares  arrived  on  their  mission  from  Darien,  to 
communicate  the  intelligence  received  from  the  son  of  the 

*  By  the  Eiiglisli  historians  he  has  generally  been  called  Davila. 


VASCO  NUS^KZ  DPJ  BALBOA.  141 

cacique  Comagre,  of  the  Southern  Sea  beyond  the  mountains, 
and  to  ask  one  thousand  men  to  enable  Vasco  Nuiiez  to  make 
the  discovery. 

The  avarice  and  ambition  of  Ferdinand  were  inflamed  by 
the  tidings.  Ke  rewarded  the  bearers  of  the  intelligence,  and, 
after  consulting  with  Bishop  Fonseca,  resolved  to  despatch 
immediately  a  powerful  armada,  with  twelve  hundred  men, 
under  the  command  of  Pedrarias,  to  accomplish  the  entei-prise. 

Just  about  this  time  the  famous  Gonsalvo  Hernandez  de 
Cordova,  commonly  called  the  Great  Captain,  was  preparing 
to  return  to  Naples,  where  the  allies  of  Spain  had  experienced 
a  signal  defeat,  and  had  craved  the  assistance  of  this  renowned 
general  to  retrieve  their  fortunes.  The  chivalry  of  Spain 
thronged  to  enlist  under  the  banner  of  Gonsalvo.  The  Span- 
ish nol)les,  with  their  accustomed  prodigality,  sold  or  mort- 
gaged their  estates  to  buy  gorgeous  armour,  silks,  brocades, 
and  other  articles  of  martial  pomp  and  luxury,  that  they 
might  figure,  with  becoming  magnificence,  in  the  campaigns 
of  Italy.  The  armament  was  on  the  point  of  sailing  for 
Naples  with  this  host  of  proud  and  gallant  spirits,  Avhen  the 
jealous  mind  of  Ferdinand  took  offence  at  the  enthusiasm  thus 
shown  towards  his  general,  and  he  abniptly  countermanded 
the  expedition.  The  Spanish  cavaliere  were  overAvhelmed 
with  disappointment  at  having  their  dreams  of  glorj^  thus 
suddenly  dispelled;  when,  as  if  to  console  them,  the  enterprise 
of  Pedrarias  was  set  on  foot,  and  opened  a  different  career  of 
adventure.  The  very  idea  of  an  xniknown  sea  and  splendid 
empire,  where  never  European  ship  had  sailed  or  foot  had 
trodden,  broke  upon  the  imagination  with  the  vague  wonders 
of  an  Arabian  tale.  Even  the  coimtries  already  known,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  settlement  of  Darien,  were  described  in  the 
usual  tei-ms  of  exaggeration.  Gold  was  said  to  lie  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  or  to  be  gathered  with  nets  out  of 
the  brooks  and  rivers;  insomuch  that  the  region  hitherto 
called  Terra  Firma  now  received  the  pompous  and  delusive 
appellation  of  Castilla  del  Oro,  or  Golden  Castile. 

Excited  by  these  reports,  many  of  the  youthful  cavaliers, 
who  had  prepared  for  the  Italian  campaign,  now  offered 
themselves  as  volunteers  to  Don  Pedrarias.  He  accepted 
their  ser\'ices,  and  appointed  Seville  as  the  place  of  assem- 
blage. The  streets  of  that  ancient  city  soon  swarmed  with 
young  and  noble  cavaliers  splendidly  arraj^ed,  full  of  spirits, 
and  eager  for  the  saihng  of  the  Indian  armada.     Pedrarias, 


l4^  SPAAISir   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

on  liis  arrival  at  Seville,  made  a  general  review  of  bis  forces, 
and  was  embarrassed  to  find  tbat  the  number  amounted  to 
three  thousand.  He  had  been  hmited  in  his  first  armament 
to  twelve  hundred;  on  representing  the  nature  of  the  case, 
however,  the  number  was  extended  to  fifteen  hundred;  but 
through  influence,  entreaty,  and  stratagem,  upwards  of  two 
thousand  eventually  embarked.*  Happy  did  he  think  him- 
self who  could  in  any  manner,  and  by  any  means,  get  ad- 
mitted on  board  of  the  squadron.  Nor  was  tliis  eagerness 
for  the  enterprise  confined  merely  to  yoimg  and  buoyant 
and  ambitious  adventurers;  we  are  told  that  there  were 
many  covetous  old  men,  who  offered  to  go  at  their  own 
expense,  without  seeking  any  pay  from  the  king.  Thus 
every  eye  was  turned  with  desire  to  tliis  squadron  of  mod- 
ern Argonauts,  as  it  lay  anchored  on  the  bosom  of  the 
Guadalquiver. 

The  pay  and  appointments  of  Don  Pedrarias  Davila  were 
on  the  most  liberal  scale,  and  no  expense  was  spared  in  fit- 
ting out  the  armament ;  for  the  objects  of  the  expedition  were 
both  colonization  and  conquest.  Artillery  and  powder  were 
procured  from  Malaga.  Beside  the  usual  weapons,  such  as 
muskets,  cross-bows,  swords,  pikes,  lances,  and  Neapolitan 
targets,  there  was  armour  devised  of  quilted  cotton,  as  being 
light  and  better  adapted  to  the  climate,  and  sufficiently  proof 
against  the  weapons  of  the  Indians;  and  wooden  bucklers 
from  the  Canary  Islands,  to  ward  off  the  poisoned  arrows  of 
the  Caribs. 

Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua  was,  by  royal  ordinance,  elevated 
into  the  metropolitan  city  of  Golden  Castile,  and  a  Franciscan 
friar,  named  Juan  de  Quevedo,  Avas  appointed  as  bishop,  with 
powers  to  decide  in  aU  cases  of  conscience.  A  number  of 
friars  were  nominated  to  accompany  him,  and  he  was  pro- 
vided with  the  necessary  furniture  and  vessels  for  a  chapel. 

Among  the  various  regulations  made  for  the  good  of  the 
infant  colony,  it  was  ordained  that  no  lawyers  should  be 
admitted  there,  it  ha^ang  been  found  at  Hispaniola  and  else- 
where, that  they  were  detrimental  to  the  welfare  of  the  settle- 
ments, by  fomenting  disputes  and  litigations.  The  judicial 
affairs  were  to  be  entirely  confided  to  the  Licentiate  Caspar 
de  Espinosa,  who  was  to  officiate  as  Alcalde  Mayor  or  chief 
judge. 

*  Oviedo,  1.  ii.,  c.  T,  MS. 


VASCO  NUStEZ  DE  BALBOA.  143 

Don  Pedrarias  had  intended  to  leave  his  wife  in  Spain.  Her 
nanio  was  Doua  Isabella  de  Bobadilla;  she  was  niece  to  the 
JIaivhioness  de  Moya,  a  great  favourite  of  tlie  late  Queen 
Isabella,  who  had  been  instrumental  in  persuading  her  royal 
mistress  to  patronize  Columbus.*  Her  niece  partook  of  her 
high  and  generous  natui-e.  She  refused  to  remain  behind  in 
selfisli  security',  but  declared  that  she  would  accompany  hor 
husband  in  every  peril,  whether  by  sea  or  land.  This  solf- 
devotion  is  the  more  remarkable  when  it  is  considered  that 
she  was  past  the  romantic  period  of  youth ;  and  that  she  had  a 
family  of  four  sons  and  four  daughtei^s,  whom  she  left  behind 
her  in  Spain. 

Don  Pedrarias  was  instnicted  to  use  great  indulgence 
towards  the  people  of  Darien,  who  had  been  the  followei*s  of 
Nicucsa,  and  to  remit  the  royal  tithe  of  all  the  gold  they  might 
have  collected  previous  to  his  arrival.  Towards  Vasco  Nunez 
de  Balboa  alone  the  royal  countenance  was  stern  and  severe. 
Pedrarias  was  to  depose  him  from  his  assumed  authority,  and 
to  call  him  to  strict  account  before  the  Alcalde  IMayor,  Gaspar 
de  Espinosa,  for  his  treatment  of  the  Bachelor  Enciso. 

The  splendid  fleet,  consisting  of  fifteen  sail,  weighed  anchor 
at  St.  Lucar  on  the  12th  of  April,  1514,  and  swept  proudly  out 
of  the  Guadalquiver,  thronged  with  the  chivalrous  adventurers 
for  Golden  Castile.  But  a  short  time  had  elapsed  after  its 
departure,  when  Pedro  Arbolancho  arrived  with  the  tardy 
missions  of  Vasco  Nuiiez.  Had  he  arrived  a  few  daj^s  sooner, 
how  different  might  have  been  the  fortunes  of  his  friend ! 

He  was  immediately  admitted  to  the  roj'al  presence,  where 
he  announced  the  adventurous  and  successful  expedition  of 
Vasco  Nuiiez,  and  laid  before  the  king  the  pearls  and  golden 
ornaments  Avliich  he  had  brought  as  the  first  fruits  of  the  dis- 
covery. King  Ferdinand  listened  with  charmed  attention  to 
this  tale  of  vmknown  seas  and  wealthy  realms  added  to  his 
empire.  It  filled,  in  fact,  the  imaginations  of  the  most  sage 
and  learned  with  golden  dreams,  and  anticipations  of  un- 
bounded riches.  Old  Peter  Martyr,  who  received  letters 
from  his  friends  in  Darien,  and  communicated  by  word  of 
mouth  with  those  who  came  from  thence,  writes  to  Leo  the 
Tenth  in  exulting  terms  of  this  event.      "Spain,"  says  he, 


*  This  was  the  same  Marchioness  de  Moya,  who  diiriiip:  the  war  of  G'-anaria, 
while  the  court  and  royal  army  were  encamped  before  Malaga,  w.is  mistaken  for 
the  queen  by  a  Moorish  fanatic,  and  Lad  nearly  fallen  beneath  bia  dagger. 


144  *S7MiV7.s7/  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

"will  hereafter  be  able  to  satisfy  with  pearls  the  greedy- 
appetite  of  such  as  in  wanton  pleasures  are  like  unto  Cleo- 
patra and  ^sopus ;  so  that  henceforth  we  shall  neither  envy 
nor  reverence  the  nice  fruitfulness  of  Trapoban  or  the  Red 
Sea.  The  Spaniards  will  not  need  hereafter  to  mine  and  dig 
far  into  the  earth,  nor  to  cut  asunder  mountains  in  quest  of 
gold,  but  will  find  it  plentifully,  in  a  manner,  on  the  upper 
crust  of  the  earth,  or  in  the  sands  of  rivers  dried  up  by  the 
heats  of  summer.  Certainly  the  reverend  antiquity  obtained 
not  so  great  a  benefit  of  nature,  nor  even  aspu'ed  to  the  know- 
ledge thereof,  since  never  man  before,  from  the  known  world, 
penetrated  to  these  unknown  regions."  * 

The  tidings  of  this  discovery  at  once  made  all  Spain  resound 
with  the  praises  of  Vasco  Nuiiez ;  and  from  being  considered  a 
lawless  and  desperate  adventurer,  he  was  lauded  to  the  skies 
as  a  worthy  successor  to  Columbus.  The  king  repented  of 
the  harshness  of  his  late  measures  towards  him,  and  ordered 
the  Bishop  Fonseca  to  devise  some  mode  of  rewarding  his 
transcendent  services. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


ARRIVAL  AND  GRAND  ENTRY  OF  DON  PEDRARIAS  DAVILA  INTO 

DARIEN. 

While  honours  and  rewards  were  preparing  in  Europe  for 
Vasco  Nuiiez,  that  indefatigable  commander,  inspired  by  his 
fortunes,  with  redoubled  zeal  and  loftier  ambition,  was  exercis- 
ing the  paternal  forethought  and  discretion  of  a  patriotic 
governor  over  the  country  subjected  to  his  rule.  His  most 
strenuous  exertions  were  directed  to  bring  the  neighbourhood 
of  Darien  into  such  a  state  of  cultivation  as  might  render  the 
settlement  independent  of  Europe  for  supplies.  The  town  was 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  and  contained  upwards  of 
two  hundred  houses  and  cabins.  Its  population  amounted  to 
five  hundred  and  fifteen  Europeans,  all  men,  and  fifteen  hun- 
dred Indians,  male  and  female.  Orchards  and  gardens  had 
been  laid  out,  where  European  as  well  as  native  fi-uits  and 
vegetables  were  cultivated,  and  already  gave  promise  of  future 


♦p.  Martyr,  decad.  3,  chap.  iii.    Lok's  translation. 


VASCO  NUSEZ  be  BALBOA.  145 

abundance.  Vasco  Nunez  devised  all  kinds  of  means  to  keep 
up  the  spirits  of  his  people.  On  hoUdays  they  had  their 
favourite  national  sports  and  games,  and  particularly  tilting 
matches,  of  which  chivalrous  amusement  the  Spaniards  in 
those  days  were  extravagantly  fond.  Sometimes  he  gratified 
their  restless  and  roving  habits  by  sending  them  on  expedi- 
tions to  various  parts  of  the  country,  to  acquire  a  knowledge 
of  its  resources,  and  to  strengthen  his  sway  over  the  natives. 
He  was  so  successful  in  securing  the  amity  or  exciting  the  awe 
of  the  Indian  tribes,  that  a  Spaniard  might  go  singly  about 
the  land  in  perfect  safety;  while  his  own  followers  were 
zealous  in  their  devotion  to  him,  both  from  admiration  of  his 
past  exploits  and  from  hopes  of  soon  being  led  by  him  to  new 
discoveries  and  conquests.  Peter  Martyr,  in  his  letter  to  Leo 
the  Tenth,  speaks  in  high  terms  of  these  "old  soldiers  of 
Darien,"  the  remnants  of  those  well-tried  adventurers  who  had 
followed  the  fortunes  of  Ojeda,  Nicuesa,  and  Vasco  Nunez. 
"They  were  hardened,"  says  he,  "to  abide  all  soi-rows,  and 
were  exceedingly  tolerant  of  labour,  heat,  hunger,  and  watch- 
ing, insomuch  that  they  merrily  make  their  boast  that  they 
have  obsei-ved  a  longer  and  sharper  Lent  than  ever  your 
Holiness  enjoined,  since,  for  the  space  of  four  years,  their  food 
has  been  herbs  and  fruits,  with  now  and  then  fish,  and  very 
seldom  flesh."* 

Such  were  the  hardy  and  well-seasoned  veterans  that  were 
under  the  sway  of  Vasco  Nunez ;  and  the  colony  gave  signs  of 
rising  in  prosperity  under  his  active  and  fostering  manage- 
ment, Avhen  in  the  month  of  June  the  fleet  of  Don  Pedrarias 
Davila  arrived  in  the  Gulf  of  Uraba. 

The  Spanish  cavaliers  who  accompanied  the  new  governor 
were  eager  to  get  on  shore,  and  to  behold  the  antic-ii">ated 
wonders  of  the  land;  but  Pedrarias,  knowing  the  resolute 
character  of  Vasco  Nunez,  and  the  devotion  of  his  folloAvers, 
apprehended  some  difficulty  in  getting  possession  of  the  colony. 
Anchoring,  therefore,  about  a  league  and  a  half  from  the  settle- 
ment, he  sent  a  messenger  on  shore  to  announce  his  arrival. 
The  envoy,  having  heard  so  much  in  Spain  of  the  prowess  and 
exploits  of  Vasco  Nunez  and  the  riches  of  Golden  Castile, 
expected,  no  doubt,  to  find  a  blustering  warrior,  maintaining 
barbaric  state  in  the  governmrnt  which  he  had  usurped. 
Great  was  his  astonishment,  therefore,  to  find  this  redoubta- 

*P.  Martyr,  decad.  3,  c.  iii.    Lok"s  translation. 


146  SPANISII  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

ble  hero  a  plain,  unassuming  man,  clad  in  a  cotton  frock  and 
drawers,  and  hempen  sandals,  directing  and  aiding  the  labour 
of  several  Indians  who  were  thatching  a  cottage  in  which  he 
resided. 

The  messenger  approached  him  respectfully,  and  announced 
the  arrival  of  Don  Pedrarias  Davila  as  governor  of  the  country. 

Whatever  Vasco  Nunez  may  have  felt  at  this  intelhgence, 
he  suppressed  Ms  emotions,  and  answered  the  messenger  with 
great  discretion :  ' '  Tell  Don  Pedrarias  Davila, "  said  he,  ' '  that 
he  is  welcome,  that  I  congratulate  him  on  his  safe  arrival,  and 
am  ready,  with  all  who  are  here,  to  obey  his  orders." 

The  little  community  of  rough  and  daring  adventurers  was 
immediately  in  an  uproar  when  they  found  a  new  governor 
had  arrived.  Some  of  the  most  zealous  adherents  of  Vasco 
Nunez  were  disposed  to  sally  forth,  sword  in  hand,  and  repel 
the  intruder ;  but  they  wore  restrained  by  their  more  consider- 
ate chieftain,  who  prepared  to  receive  the  new  governor  with 
all  due  submission. 

Pedrarias  disembarked  on  the  thirtieth  of  June,  accom- 
panied by  his  heroic  wife.  Dona  Isabella ;  who,  according  to  old 
Peter  Martyr,  had  sustained  the  roarings  and  rages  of  the 
ocean  with  no  less  stout  courage  than  either  her  husband  or 
even  the  mariners  who  had  been  brought  up  among  the  surges 
of  the  sea. 

Pedrarias  set  out  for  the  embryo  city  at  the  head  of  two 
thousand  men,  all  weU  armed.  He  led  his  wife  by  the  hand, 
and  on  the  other  side  of  him  was  the  bishop  of  Darien  in  his 
robes ;  while  a  brilliant  train  of  youthful  cavaliers,  in  ghttermg 
armour  and  brocade,  formed  a  kind  of  body-guard. 

All  this  pomp  and  splendour  formed  a  striking  contrast  with 
the  humble  state  of  Vasco  Nunez,  who  came  forth  unarmed, 
in  simple  attire,  accompanied  by  his  councillors  and  a  handful 
of  tlie  "old  soldiers  oP  Darien,"  scari-ed  and  battered,  and 
grown  half  wild  in  Indian  warfare,  but  without  weapons,  and 
in  garments  much  the  worse  for  wear. 

Vasco  Nunez  saluted  Don  Pedrarias  Davila  with  profound 
reverence,  and  promised  him  implicit  obedience,  both  in  his 
own  name  and  in  the  name  of  the  community.  Having  en- 
tered the  town,  he  conducted  his  distinguished  guests  to  his 
straw-thatched  habitation,  where  he  had  caused  a  repast  to  be 
prepared  of  such  cheer  as  his  means  afforded,  consisting  of 
roots  and  fruits,  maize  and  casava  bread,  with  no  other  bever- 
age than  water  from  the  river ;  a  sorry  palace  and  a  meagre 


VASCO  NU^^KZ  DE  UMBO  A.  147 

banquet  in  the  eyes  of  the  gay  cavaUers,  who  had  anticipated 
far  other  things  from  the  usurper  of  Golden  Castile.  Vasco 
Nunez,  however,  acquitted  himself  in  liis  humble  wigwam 
with  the  courtesy  and  hospitality  of  a  prince,  and  showed  that 
the  dignity  of  an  entertainment  depends  more  upon  the  giver 
than  the  feast.  In  the  meantime  a  plentiful  supply  of  European 
provisions  was  landed  from  the  fleet,  and  a  temporary  abund- 
ance was  diffused  through  the  colony. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


PERFIDIOUS  CONDUCT   OF  DON   PEDRARIAS  TOWARDS  VASCO 
NUNEZ. 

On  the  day  after  his  entrance  into  Darien,  Don  Pedrarias 
held  a  private  conference  with  Vasco  Nunez  in  presence  of  the 
historian  Oviedo,  who  had  come  out  from  Spain  as  the  public 
notary  of  the  colony.  The  governor  commenced  bj'  assurinc: 
him  that  he  was  instructed  by  the  king  to  treat  him  Avith  gi-eat 
favour  and  distinction,  to  consult  him  about  the  affairs  of  the 
colony,  and  to  apply  to  him  for  information  relative  to  the 
surrounding  country.  At  the  same  time  he  professed  the  most 
amicable  feelings  on  his  own  part,  and  an  intention  to  be 
guided  by  his  counsels  in  all  public  measures. 

Vasco  Nmlez  was  of  a  frank,  confiding  nature,  and  was  so 
captivated  by  this  unexpected  courtesy  and  kinclnoss,  that  he 
threw  off  all  caution  and  reserve,  and  opened  his  whole  soul  to 
the  politic  courtier.  Pedrarias  availed  himself  of  this  com- 
municative mood  to  draw  from  him  a  min\ite  and  able  state- 
ment in  writing,  detailing  the  circumstances  of  the  colony,  and 
the  information  collected  respecting  various  parts  of  the  comi- 
try ;  the  route  by  which  he  had  traversed  the  mountains ;  his 
discovery  of  the  Routh  Sea;  the  situation  and  reputed  wealth 
of  the  Pearl  Islands ;  the  rivers  and  ravines  most  productive  of 
gold ;  together  A\-ith  the  names  and  territories  of  the  various 
caciques  ^\^th  whom  he  had  made  treaties. 

When  Pedrarias  had  thits  beguiled  the  unsuspecting  soldier 
of  all  the  information  necessary  for  his  purposes,  he  dropped 
the  mask,  and  within  a  few  days  proclaimed  a  judicial  scrutiny 
into  the  conduct  of  Vasco  Nuiiez  and  his  officei-s.     It  was  to 


148  SrANISII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

be  conducted  by  the  Licentiate  Gaspar  de  Espinosa,  who  had 
come  out  as  Alcalde  Mayor,  or  chief  judge.  The  Licentiate  was 
an  inexperienced  lawyer,  having  but  recently  left  the  univer- 
sity of  Salamanca.  He  appears  to  have  been  somewhat  flexi- 
ble in  his  opinions,  and  prone  to  be  guided  or  governed  by 
others.  At  the  outset  of  his  career  he  was  much  under  the 
influence  of  Quevedo,  the  Bishop  of  Darien.  Now,  as  Vasco 
Nuiiez  knew  the  importance  of  this  prelate  in  the  colony,  he 
had  taken  care  to  secure  him  to  his  interests  by  paying  him 
the  most  profound  deference  and  respect,  and  by  giving  him  a 
share  in  his  agricidtural  enterprises  and  his  schemes  of  traffic. 
In  fact,  the  good  bishop  looked  upon  him  as  one  eminently  cal- 
culated to  promote  his  temporal  prosperity,  to  which  he  was 
by  no  means  insensible.  Under  the  influence  of  the  prelate, 
therefore,  the  Alcalde  commenced  his  investigation  in  the  most 
favourable  manner.  He  went  largely  into  an  examination 
of  the  discoveries  of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  and  of  the  nature  and 
extent  of  his  various  services.  The  governor  was  alarmed  at 
the  course  which  the  inquiry  was  taking.  If  thus  conducted, 
it  would  but  serve  to  illustrate  the  merits  and  elevate  the  repu- 
tation of  the  man  whom  it  was  his  interest  and  intent  to  ruin. 
To  counteract  it  he  immediately  set  on  foot  a  secret  and  invid- 
ious course  of  interrogatories  of  the  followers  of  Nicuesa  and 
Ojeda,  to  draw  from  them  testimony  which  might  support  the 
charge  against  Vasco  Nuiiez  of  usurpation  and  tyrannical  abuse 
of  power.  The  bishop  and  the  Alcalde  received  information  of 
this  inquisition,  carried  on  thus  secretly,  and  without  their 
sanction .  They  remonstrated  warmly  again  st  it,  as  an  infringe- 
ment of  their  rights,  being  coadjutors  in  the  government ;  and 
they  spurned  the  testimony  of  the  followers  of  Ojeda  and 
Nicuesa,  as  being  dictated  and  discoloured  by  ancient  enmity. 
Vasco  Nuiiez  was,  therefore,  acquitted  by  them  of  the  crimi- 
nal charges  made  against  him,  though  he  remained  involved  in 
difficulties  from  the  suits  brought  against  him  by  individuals, 
for  losses  and  damages  occasioned  by  his  measures. 

Pedrarias  was  incensed  at  this  acquittal,  and  insisted  upon 
the  guilt  of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  which  he  pretended  to  have  estab- 
lished to  his  conviction  by  his  secret  investigations ;  and  he 
even  determined  to  send  him  in  chains  to  Spain,  to  be  tried  for 
the  death  of  Nicuesa,  and  for  other  imputed  offences. 

It  was  not  the  inchnation  or  the  interest  of  the  bishop  that 
Vasco  Nuiiez  should  leave  the  colony ;  he  therefore  managed 
to  awaken  the  jealous  apprehensions  of  the  governor  as  to  the 


VASCO  NU:StKZ  DE  BALBOA.  149 

effect  of  his  proposed  measure.  He  intimated  that  the  arrival 
of  Vasco  Nunez  iii  Spain  would  be  signalized  by  triumph 
rather  tlian  disgrace.  By  that  time  his  grand  discoveries 
■would  be  blazoned  to  the  world,  and  would  atone  for  all  his 
faidts.  He  would  be  received  with  enthusiasm  by  the  nation, 
with  favour  by  the  king,  and  woidd  probably  be  sent  back  to 
the  colony  clothed  with  new  dignity  and  power. 

Pedrarias  was  placed  in  a  perplexing  ddemma  by  these  sug- 
gestions; his  violent  proceedings  against  Vasco  Nunez  were 
also  in  some  measure  restrained  by  the  influence  of  his  wife, 
Dona  Isabel  de  Bobadilla,  who  felt  a  great  respect  and  sympathy 
for  the  discoverer.  In  his  perplexity,  the  ■nily  governor 
adopted  a  middle  course.  He  resolved  to  detain  Vasco  Nunez 
at  Darien  under  a  cloud  of  imputation,  wliich  woidd  gradually 
impair  his  popularity ;  while  his  patience  and  means  woiUd  be 
silently  consumed  by  protracted  and  expensive  litigation.  In 
the  mean  time,  however,  the  property  which  had  been  secjues- 
trated  was  restored  to  him. 

While  Pedrarias  treated  Vasco  Nuiiez  with  this  severity,  he 
failed  not  to  avail  himself  of  the  plans  of  that  able  cominander. 
The  firet  of  these  was  to  establish  a  hue  of  posts  across  the 
mountains  between  Darien  and  the  South  Sea.  It  was  his 
eager  desire  to  execute  this  before  any  order  should  arrive 
from  the  king  in  favour  of  liis  predecessor,  in  order  that  he 
might  have  the  crcniit  of  having  colonized  the  coast,  and  Vasco 
Nuiiez  merely  that  of  having  discovered  and  visited  it.* 
Before  he  could  complete  these  arrangements,  however, 
unlooked-for  calamities  fell  upon  the  settlement,  that  for  a 
time  interrupted  every  project,  and  made  every  one  tm-n  his 
thoughts  merely  to  las  o\yn  seciu-ity. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

CALAMITIES  OF  THE  SPANISH   CAVALIERS  AT  DARIEN. 

The  toAvn  of  Darien  was  situated  in  a  deep  vaUej-  surrounded 
by  lofty  hills,  which,  wliile  they  kcjtt  off  the  breezes  so  grate- 
ful in  a  sultry  chmate,  reflected  and  concentrated  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  insomuch  that  at  noontide  the  heat  was  insupportable ; 

♦  Oviedo,  Hist.  Ind.,  p.  2,  c.  8. 


150  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

the  river  which  passed  it  was  shallow,  with  a  muddy  channel 
and  bordered  by  marshes ;  overhanging  forests  added  to  tJic 
general  huinidity,  and  the  very  soil  on  which  the  town  was 
built  was  of  such  a  nature,  that  on  digging  to  the  depth  of  a 
foot  there  would  ooze  forth  brackish  water.* 

It  is  not  matter  of  surprise  that  a  situation  of  this  kind,  in  a 
tropical  climate,  should  be  fatal  to  the  health  of  Europeans. 
Many  of  those  w^ho  had  recently  arrived  were  swept  off 
speedily;  Pedrarias  himself  fell  sick  and  was  removed,  with 
most  of  his  people,  to  a  healthier  spot  on  the  river  Corobari ; 
the  malady,  however,  continued  to  increase.  The  provisions 
which  had  been  brought  out  in  the  ships  had  been  partly  dam- 
aged by  the  sea,  the  residue  grew  scanty,  and  the  people  were 
put  upon  short  allowance ;  the  debility  thus  produced  increased 
the  ravages  of  the  disease ;  at  length  the  provisions  were  ex- 
hausted and  the  horrors  of  absolute  famine  ensued. 

Every  one  was  more  or  less  affected  by  these  calamities; 
even  the  veterans  of  the  colony  quailed  beneath  them ;  but  to 
none  were  they  ixiore  fatal  than  to  the  crowd  of  youthful  cava- 
liers who  had  once  ghttered  so  gaily  about  the  streets  of 
Seville,  and  had  come  out  to  the  new  world  elated  with  the 
most  sanguine  expectations.  From  the  very  moment  of  their 
landing  they  had  been  disheartened  at  the  savage  scenes 
aromad  them,  and  disgusted  with  the  squalid  life  they  were 
doomed  to  lead.  They  shrunk  with  disdain  from  the  labours 
with  which  alone- wealth  was  to  be  procured  in  this  land  of 
gold  and  pearls,  and  were  impatient  of  the  humble  exertions 
necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  existence.  As  the  famine 
increased,  their  case  became  desperate ;  for  they  were  unable 
to  help  themselves,  and  their  rank  and  dignity  commanded 
neither  deference  nor  aid  at  a  time  when  common  misery 
made  every  one  selfish.  Many  of  them,  who  had  mortgaged 
estates  in  Spain  to  fit  themselves  out  sumptuously  for  their 
Italian  campaign,  now  perished  for  lack  of  food.  Some  would 
be  seen  bartering  a  robe  of  crimson  silk,  or  some  garment  ol 
rich  brocade,  for  a  pound  of  Indian  bread  or  European  biscuit ; 
others  sought  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  hunger  with  the  herbs 
and  roots  of  the  field,  and  one  of  the  principal  cavaliers  abso- 
lutely expired  of  hxmger  in  the  public  streets. 

In  this  wretched  way,  and  in  the  short  space  of  one  month, 
periahed  seven  hundred  of  the  little  army  of  youthfid  and 

*  p.  Martyr,  decad.  8,  c.  vi. 


VASCO  NUKEZ  1)E  BALBOA.  lol 

buoyant  spirits  who  had  embarked  with  Pcdi-arias.  The 
bodies  of  some  remained  for  a  day  or  two  without  sci)ulture, 
their  friends  not  having  sufficient  strength  to  buiy  them. 
Unable  to  remedy  the  evil,  Pedrarias  gave  permission  lor  his 
men  to  flee  from  it.  A  ship-load  of  starving  adventurers 
departed  for  Cuba,  Avhere  some  of  them  joined  the  standard  of 
Diego  Velasquez,  who  -wxis  colonizing  that  island;  othoi-s  made 
their  way  back  to  Spain,  where  they  arrived  broken  in  health, 
in  spirits,  and  in  fortune. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

FRUITLESS  EXPEDITION  OF  PEDRAPvIAS. 

The  departure  of  so  many  hungry  mouths  was  some  tem- 
porary rehef  to  the  colony;  and  Pedrarias,  having  recovered 
from  his  malady,  bestirred  himself  to  send  expeditions  in  vari- 
ous directions  for  the  purpose  of  foraging  the  country  and 
collecting  the  ti'easui'e. 

These  expeditions,  however,  were  entrusted  to  his  own 
favourites  ajid  partisans;  while  Vasco  Niulez,  the  man  most 
competent  to  carry  them  into  effect,  remained  idle  and  neg- 
lected. A  judicial  inquiry,  tardily  carried  on,  overehadoAved 
him,  and  though  it  substantiated  nothing,  served  to  embarrass 
his  actions,  to  cool  his  friends,  and  to  give  him  the  air  of  a 
public  delinquent.  Indeed,  to  the  other  evils  of  the  colony  was 
now  added  that  of  excessive  litigation,  arising  out  of  the  dis- 
putes concerning  the  government  of  Vasco  Nin~iez,  and  which 
increased  to  such  a  degree,  that  according  to  the  report  of  the 
Alcalde  Espinosa,  if  the  law-suits  shoidd  be  divided  among  the 
people,  at  least  forty  would  f;dl  to  each  man's  share.*  This 
too  was  in  a  colony  into  which  the  government  had  com- 
manded that  no  lawyer  should  be  admitted. 

Wearied  and  irritated  by  the  check  which  had  been  given  to 
his  favourite  enterprises,  and  confident  of  the  ultimate  appro- 
bation of  the  king,  Vasco  Nunez  now  determined  to  take  his 
fortunes  in  his  own  hands,  and  to  prosecute  in  secret  his  grand 
I)roject  of  exploring  the  regions  beyond  the  mountains.     For 

*  Herrera,  detad.  2, 1.  i.  c.  1. 


152  SPANItiJI   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

this  purpose  he  privately  despatched  one  Andres  Garabito  to 
Cuba  to  enUst  men,  and  to  make  the  requisite  provisions  for  an 
expedition  across  the  isthmus,  from  Nombre  de  Dios,  and  for 
the  founding  a  colony  on  the  shores  of  the  Southern  Ocean, 
from  whence  he  proposed  to  extend  his  discoveries  by  sea  and 
land. 

While  Vasco  Nunez  awaited  the  return  of  Garabito,  be  had 
the  mortification  of  beholding  various  of  his  colonizing  plans 
pursued  and  marred  by  Pedrarias.  Among  other  enterprises, 
the  governor  despatched  his  lieutenant-general,  Juan  de 
Ayora,  at  the  head  of  four  hundred  men,  to  visit  the  provinces 
of  those  caciques  with  whom  Vasco  Nunez  had  sojoiu*ned  and 
made  treaties  on  his  expedition  to  the  Southern  Sea.  Ayora 
partook  of  the  rash  and  donaineering  spirit  of  Pedrarias,  and 
hai'assed  and  devastated  the  countries  which  be  pretended  to 
explore.  He  was  received  with  amity  and  confidence  by  vari- 
ous caciques  who  had  f oi'med  treaties  with  Vasco  Nuiiez ;  but 
he  repaid  their  hospitality  with  the  basest  ingratitude,  seizing 
upon  their  property,  taking  from  them  their  wives  and 
daughters,  and  often  torturing  them  to  make  them  reveal  their 
hidden  or  supposed  treasures.  Among  those  treated  with  this 
perfidy,  we  grieve  to  enumerate  the  youthful  cacique  who  first 
gave  Vasco  Nunez  information  of  the  sea  beyond  the  moun- 
tains. 

The  enormities  of  Ayora  and  of  other  captains  of  Pedrarias 
produced  the  usual  effect ;  the  natives  were  roused  to  desper- 
ate resistance;  caciques  who  had  been  faithful  friends,  were 
converted  into  furious  enemies,  and  the  expedition  ended  in 
disappointment  and  disaster. 

The  adherents  of  Vasco  Nunez  did  not  fail  to  contrast  these 
disastrous  enterprises  with  those  which  had  been  conducted 
with  so  much  glory  and  advantage  by  their  favourite  com- 
mander ;  and  their  sneers  and  reproaches  had  such  an  effect 
ui^on  the  jealous  and  irritable  disposition  of  Pedrarias,  that  ho 
detcKiiined  to  en  ploy  their  idol  in  a  service  that  would  be 
likely  to  be  attended  with  defeat  and  to  impair  Ms  popularity. 
None  seemed  more  fitting  for  the  purpose  than  an  expedition 
to  Dotayba,  where  ho  had  once  already  attempted  in  vain  to 
penetrate,  and  where  so  many  of  his  followers  had  fallen  vic- 
tims to  the  stratagems  and  assaults  of  the  natives. 


VASCO  NUI^EZ  DE  BALBOA.  153 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SECOND    EXPEDITION    OP  VASCO    NUNEZ    IN    QUEST  OF  THE    GOLD 
TEMPLE  OF  DOBAYBA. 

The  rich  mines  of  Dobayba  and  the  treasures  of  its  golden 
temple  had  continued  to  form  a  favourite  theme  with  the 
Spanish  adventurers.  It  was  ascertained  that  Vasco  Nufiez 
had  stopped  short  of  the  wealthy  region  on  his  former  expedi- 
tion, and  had  mistaken  a  frontier  village  for  the  residence  of 
the  cacique.  The  enterprise  of  the  temple  was  therefore  still 
to  be  achieved ;  and  it  was  solicited  by  several  of  the  cavaliers 
in  the  train  of  Pedrarias  with  all  the  chivalrous  ardour  of  that 
romantic  age.  Indeed,  common  report  had  invested  the  enter- 
pi'ise  with  difficulties  and  danger  sufficient  to  stimulate  the  am- 
bition of  tjhe  keenest  seeker  of  adventure.  The  savages  who 
inhabited  that  part  of  the  country  were  courageous  and  adroit. 
They  fought  by  water  as  well  as  by  land,  forming  ambuscades 
with  their  canoes  in  the  bays  and  i-ivers.  The  coiintry  was 
intersected  by  dreary  fens  and  morasses,  infested  by  all  kinds 
of  reptiles.  Clouds  of  gnats  and  musquitoes  filled  the  air; 
there  were  larg3  bats  also,  supposed  to  have  the  baneful  prop- 
erties of  the  vampire;  iilligators  lurked  in  the  watei"s,  and  the 
gloomy  recesses  of  the  fens  were  said  to  be  the  dens  of  dra- 
gons I  * 

Besides  these  objects  of  terror,  both  true  and  fabulous,  the 
old  historian,  PeU^r  Martyr, -makes  mention  of  another  mon- 
strous animal  sjrid  to  infest  this  gcjlden  region,  and  which 
deserves  to  be  cited,  as  showing  the  imaginary  dangers  with 
which  the  active  minds  of  the  discoverers  peopled  the  unex- 
plored wilderness  around  them. 

According  to  the  tales  of  the  Indians,  there  had  occurred 
shortly  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  a  violent  tempest, 
or  leather  hurricane,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dobayba,  which 
demolished  houses,  tore  up  trees  by  the  roots,  and  laid  waste 
whole  forests.  When  the  tempest  had  sul)sided,  and  tlie  af- 
frighted inhabitants  ventured  to  look  abroad,  thoy  found  tliat 
two  monstrous  animals  had  been  brought  into  the  country  by 
the  hurricane.     According  to  their  accounts,   tlioy  were  not 

*  p.  Martyr. 


]5-i  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

unlike  the  ancient  harpies,  and  one  being  smaller  than  the 
other  was  suj^posed  to  be  its  young.  They  had  the  faces  of 
women,  with  the  claws  and  wings  of  eagles,  and  were  of  such, 
prodigious  size  that  the  very  boughs  of  the  trees  on  which  they 
alighted  broke  beneath  them.  They  would  swoop  down  and 
carry  off  a  man  as  a  hawk  would  bear  off  a  cMcken,  fljing 
with  him  to  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  where  they  would  tear 
him  in  pieces  and  devour  him.  For  some  time  they  were  the 
scourge  and  terror  of  the  land,  until  the  Indians  succeeded  in 
killing  the  old  one  by  stratagem,  and  hanging  her  on  their  long 
spears,  bore  her  through  all  the  towns  to  assuage  the  alarm  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  younger  harpy,  says  the  Indian  tradi- 
tion, was  never  seen  afterwards.* 

Such  were  some  of  the  perils,  true  and  fabulous,  with  which, 
the  land  of  Dobayba  was  said  to  abound ;  and,  in  fact,  the  very 
Indians  had  such  a  dread  of  its  dark  and  dismal  morasses, 
that  in  their  journeyings  they  carefully  avoided  them,  prefer- 
ring the  circuitous  and  rugged  paths  of  the  mountains. 

Several  of  the  youthful  cavaliers,  as  has  been  observed,  were 
stimulated,  rather  than  deterred,  by  these  dangers,  and  con- 
tended for  the  honour  of  the  expedition ;  but  Pedrarias  selected 
his  rival  for  the  task,  hoping,  as  has  been  hinted,  that  it  would 
involve  him  in  disgrace.  Vasco  Nufiez  promptly  accepted  the 
enterprise,  for  his  pride  was  concerned  in  its  success.  Two 
himdred  resolute  men  were  given  to  him  for  the  purpose ;  but 
his  satisfaction  was  diminished  when  he  found  that  Luis  Car- 
rillo,  an  officer  of  Pedrarias,  who  had  failed  in  a  perilous 
enterprise,  was  associated  with  him  in  the  command. 

Few  particulars  remain  to  us  of  the  evoats  of  this  affair. 
They  embarked  in  a  fleet  of  canoes,  and,  tr^'ersing  the  gulf, 
arrived  at  the  river  which  flowed  down  froin  the  region  of 
Dobayba.  They  were  not  destined,  however,  to  achieve  the 
enterprise  of  the  golden  temple.  As  they  were  proceeding 
rather  confidently  and  unguardedly  up  the  river,  they  were 
suddenly  surprised  and  surrounded  by  an  immense  swarm  of 
canoes,  filled  with  armed  savages,  which  darted  out  from  lurk- 
ing places  along  the  shores.  Some  of  the  Indians  assailed  them 
with  lances,  others  with  clouds  of  arrows,  while  some,  plung- 
ing into  the  water,  endeavoured  to  overturn  their  canoes.  In 
this  way  one-half  of  the  Spaniards  were  killed  or  drowned. 
Among  the  number  fell   Luis   CarriUo,  pierced  through  the 

*  p.  Martyr,  decad.  V,  c.  lO. 


VASCO  NU^EZ  DE  BALBOA.  155 

breast  by  an  Indian  lance.  Vasco  Nuiiez  himself  was  wound- 
ed, and  had  great  difficulty  in  escaping  to  the  shore  with  the 
'esiduc  of  his  forces. 

The  Indians  pursued  him  and  kept  up  a  skinnishing  attack, 
but  he  beat  them  off  until  the  night,  when  he  silently  aban- 
doned the  shore  of  the  river,  and  directed  his  retreat  towards 
Darien.  It  is  easier  to  imagine  than  to  describe  the  toils  and 
dangers  and  horrors  which  beset  him  and  the  remnant  of  his 
men,  as  they  traversed  rugged  momitains  or  struggled  through 
these  feai-ful  morasses,  of  which  they  had  heard  such  terrific 
tales.  At  length  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the  settlement  of 
Darien. 

The  partisans  of  Pedrarias  exulted  in  seeing  Vasco  Nuiiez 
returned  thus  foiled  and  wounded,  and  taunted  his  adherents 
with  their  previous  boastings.  The  latter,  however,  laid  all 
the  blame  upon  the  unfortunate  Carrillo.  "Vasco  Nuiiez," 
said  the}',  "  had  always  absolute  command  in  his  former  enter- 
prises, but  in  this  he  has  been  embarrassed  by  an  associate. 
Had  the  expedition  been  confided  to  him  alone,  the  event  had 
been  far  different." 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


LETTERS  FROM  THE  KING   IN  FAVOUR  OF  VASCO   NUS'EZ — ARRIVAL 
OF  GARABITO— ARREST  OF  VASCO  NUNEZ.— (1515.) 

About  this  tim«  despatches  arrived  from  Spain  that  promised 
to  give  a  new  turn  to  the  fortunes  of  Vasco  Nunez  and  to  the 
general  affairs  of  the  colony.  They  were  written  after  the 
tidings  of  the  discovery  of  the  South  Sea,  and  the  subjugation 
of  so  many  important  provinces  of  the  Isthmus.  In  a  letter 
addressed  to  Vasco  Nunez,  the  king  expressed  his  high  sense 
of  his  merits  and  services,  and  constituted  him  Adelantado 
of  the  South  Sea,  and  Governor  of  the  pro\'inces  of  Panama 
and  Coyba,  though  subordinate  to  the  general  command  of  Pe- 
drarias. A  letter  was  hke\vi.se  written  by  the  king  to  Pe- 
drarias, informing  him  of  this  appointment,  and  ordering  him 
to  consult  Vasco  Nunez  on  all  public  affairs  of  importance. 
This  was  a  humibating  blow  to  the  pride  and  consequence  of 
Pedrarias,  but  he  lioped  to  parry  it.  In  the  mean  time,  as  all 
letters  from  Spain  were  first  delivered  into  his  hands,  he  with- 


156  SPAXISII    VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

held  that  intended  for  Vasco  Nunez,  until  he  should  deter- 
mine what  course  of  conduct  to  adopt.  The  latter,  however, 
heard  of  the  circumstance,  as  did  his  friend  the  Bishop  of 
Darien.  The  prelate  made  loud  complaints  of  this  interrup- 
tion of  the  royal  correspondence,  which  he  denounced,  even 
from  the  pulpit,  as  an  outrage  upon  the  rights  of  the  subject, 
and  an  act  of  disobedience  to  the  sovereign. 

Upon  this  the  governor  called  a  council  of  his  pubHc  officers ; 
and,  after  impai'ting  the  contents  of  his  letter,  requested  their 
opinion  as  to  the  jn-opriety  of  investing  Vasco  Nmlez  with 
the  dignities  thus  granted  to  him.  The  Alcalde  Mayor,  Espi- 
nosa,  had  left  the  party  of  the  bishop,  and  was  now  devoted  to 
the  governor.  He  insisted,  vehemently,  that  the  offices  ought 
in  no  wise  to  be  given  to  Vasco  Nunez,  until  the  king  should 
be  informed  of  the  result  of  the  inquest  which  was  still  going 
on  agamst  him.  In  tliis  he  was  warmly  supported  by  the 
treasurer  and  the  accountant.  The  bishop  replied,  mdig- 
nantly,  that  it  was  presumptuous  and  disloyal  in  them  to 
dispute  the  commands  of  the  king,  and  to  interfere  with  the 
rewards  conscientiously  given  by  him  to  a  meritorious  subject. 
In  this  way,  he  added,  they  were  defeating,  by  their  pas- 
sions, the  grateful  intentions  of  their  sovereign.  The  governor 
was  overawed  by  the  honest  warmth  of  the  bishop,  and  pro- 
fessed to  accord  with  him  in  opinion.  The  council  lasted  until 
midnight ;  and  it  was  finally  agreed  that  the  titles  and  digni- 
ties shoiild  be  conferred  on  Vasco  Nunez  on  the  following 
day.* 

Pedrarias  and  his  officers  reflected,  however,  that  if  the 
jurisdiction  impUed  by  those  titles  were  absolutely  vested  in 
Vasco  Nuiiez,  the  government  of  Darien  and  Castilla  del  Oro 
would  virtually  be  reduced  to  a  triffing  matter ;  they  resolved, 
therefore,  to  adopt  a  middle  course;  to  grant  him  the  empty 
titles,  but  to  make  him  give  security  not  to  enter  upon  the 
actual  government  of  the  territories  m  question,  until  Pe- 
drarias should  give  him  permission.  The  bishop  and  Vasco 
Nunez  assented  to  tliis  arrangement ;  satisfied,  for  the  present, 
with  securing  the  titles,  and  trusting  to  the  course  of  events  to 
get  dominion  over  the  territories. t 


*  Oviedo,  p!»rt  2,  c.  9,  MS.  Oviedo,  the  historian,  was  present  at  this  consultation, 
and  says  that  he  wrote  down  tlie  opinions  given  on  the  occasion,  which  the  parties 
signed  with  their  proper  iiands. 

t  Oviedo,  part  S,  c.  9,  MS. 


VASCO  NUS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  If,? 

The  new  honours  of  Vasco  Nunez  were  now  promulgated  to 
the  world,  and  he  was  every  where  addressed  by  the  title  of 
Adelantado.  His  old  friends  lifted  up  their  heads  with  exulta- 
tion, and  new  adherents  flocked  to  his  standard.  Parties  be- 
gan to  form  for  him  and  for  Pedrarias,  for  it  was  deemed  un- 
possible  they  could  continue  long  in  harmony. 

The  jealousy  of  the  governor  was  excited  by  these  circum- 
stances ;  and  he  regarded  the  newly  created  Adelantado  as  a 
dangerous  rival  and  an  insidious  foe.  Just  at  this  critical  junc- 
ture, Andres  Garabito,  the  agent  of  Vasco  Nuilez,  arrived  on 
the  coast  in  a  vessel  which  he  had  procured  at  Cuba,  and  had 
freighted  with  arms  and  ammunition,  and  seventy  resolute 
men,  for  the  secret  expedition  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  He  anchored  six  leagues  from  the  harbour,  and  sent 
word  privately  to  Vasco  Nune>5  of  his  arrival. 

Information  was  immediately  carried  to  Pedrarias,  that  a 
mysterious  vessel,  fidl  of  armed  men,  was  hovering  on  the 
coast,  and  holding  secret  communication  with  his  rival.  The 
suspicious  temper  of  the  governor  immediately  took  the  alarm. 
He  fancied  some  treasonable  plot  against  his  authority;  his 
passions  mingled  with  his  feara ;  and,  in  the  first  burst  of  his 
fury,  he  ordered  that  Vasco  Nunez  should  be  seized  and  con- 
fined in  a  wooden  cage.  The  Bishop  of  Darien  interposed  in 
time  to  prevent  an  indignity  which  it  might  have  been  im- 
possible to  expiate.  He  prevailed  upon  the  passionate  gover- 
nor, not  merely  to  retract  tlue  order  respecting  the  cage,  but  to 
examine  the  whole  matter  with  coolness  and  deliberation.  The 
result  proved  that  his  suspicions  had  been  erroneous ;  and  that 
the  armament  had  been  set  on  foot  -wdthoiit  any  treasonable  in- 
tent. Vasco  Nunez  was  therefore  set  at  liberty,  after  having 
agreed  to  certain  precautionary  conditions;  but  he  I'emained 
« ast  down  in  spirit  and  impoverished  in  fortune,  by  the  har- 
assing measures  of  Pedrarias. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

EXPEDITION  OF  MORALES  AND  PIZARRO  TO  THE  SHORES  OF  THE 
PACIFIC  OCEAN— THEIR  VISIT  TO  THE  PEARL  ISLANDS— THEIR 
DISASTROUS  RETURN  ACROSS  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

The  Bishop  of  Darien,  encouraged  by  the  success  of  his  in- 
tercession, endeavoured  to  persuade  the  governor  to  go  still 


158  SPANISH   VOrAGJi\S   OF  DISCOVERY. 

further,  and  to  permit  the  departure  of  Vasco  Nunez  on  his  ex- 
pedition to  the  South  Sea.  The  jealousy  of  Pedrarias,  how- 
ever, was  too  strong  to  permit  him  to  listen  to  such  counsel. 
He  was  aware  of  the  importance  of  the  expedition,  and  was 
anxious  that  the  Pearl  Islands  should  he  explored,  which 
promised  such  abundant  treasures ;  but  he  feared  to  increase 
the  popularity  of  Vasco  Nuilez,  by  adding  such  an  enterprise 
to  the  number  of  his  achievements.  Pedrarias,  therefore,  set 
on  foot  an  expedition,  consisting  of  sixty  men,  but  gave  the 
command  to  one  of  his  own  relations,  named  Gaspar  Morales. 
The  latter  was  accompanied  by  Francisco  Pizarro,  who  had 
already  been  to  those  parts  in  the  train  of  Vasco  Nuilez,  and 
who  soon  rose  to  importance  in  the  present  enterprise  by  his 
fierce  courage  and  domineering  genius. 

A  brief  notice  of  the  principal  incidents  of  this  expedition  is 
all  that  is  necessary  for  the  present  narration. 

Morales  and  Pizarro  traversed  the  mountains  of  the  isth- 
mus by  a  shorter  and  more  expeditious  route  than  that  which 
had  been  taken  by  Vasco  Nunez,  and  arrived  on  the  shores  of 
the  South  Sea  at  the  territories  of  a  cacique  named  Tutibra,  by 
whom  they  were  amicably  entertained.  Their  great  object 
was  to  visit  the  Pearl  Islands :  the  cacique,  however,  had  but 
four  canoes,  which  were  insufficient  to  contain  their  whole 
party.  One-half  of  their  number,  therefore,  remained  at  the 
village  of  Tutibra,  under  the  command  of  a  captain  named 
Peilalosa ;  the  residue  embarked  in  the  canoes  with  Morales 
and  Pizarro.  After  a  stormy  and  perilous  voyage,  they  landed 
on  one  of  the  smaller  islands,  where  they  had  some  skirmish- 
ing with  the  natives,  and  thence  made  their  way  to  the  princi- 
pal island  of  the  Archipelago,  to  which,  from  the  report  of  its 
great  pearl  fishery,  Vasco  Nunez  had  given  the  name  of  Isla 
Pica. 

The  cacique  of  this  island  had  long  been  the  terror  of  the 
neighbouring  coasts,  invading  the  main  land  with  fleets  of 
canoes,  and  carrying  off:  the  inhabitants  into  captivity.  His 
reception  of  the  Spaniards  was  worthy  of  his  fame.  Four 
times  did  he  sally  forth  to  defend  his  territory,  and  as  often 
was  he  repulsed  \vith  great  slaughter.  His  warriors  were  over- 
whelmed with  terror  at  the  fire-arms  of  the  Spaniards,  and 
at  their  ferocious  bloodhounds.  Finding  all  resistance  un- 
availing, the  cacique  was  at  length  compelled  to  sue  for  peace. 
His  prayers  being  granted,  he  received  the  conquerors  into 
hib  habitation,  which  was  well  built,  and  of  immense  size. 


VASCO  NU^EZ  BE  BALBOA.  159 

Here  he  brought  them,  as  a  peace-offering,  a  basket  curiously 
wrought,  and  filled  with  pearls  of  great  beauty.  Among  these 
were  two  of  extraordinary  size  and  value.  One  weighed 
twenty-five  carats ;  the  other  was  of  the  size  of  a  Muscadine 
pear,  weighing  upAvards  of  three  drachms,  and  of  oriental  col- 
our and  lustre.  The  cacique  considered  himself  more  than  re- 
paid by  a  present  of  hatchets,  beads,  and  hawks'-bells:  and,  on 
the  Spaniards  smiling  at  his  joy,  observed,  "These  things  I 
can  turn  to  useful  purpose,  but  of  what  value  are  those  pearls 
to  me?" 

Finding,  however,  that  these  baubles  were  precious  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Spaniards,  he  took  Morales  and  Pizarro  to  the  sum- 
mit of  a  wooden  tower,  commanding  an  mibounded  prospect. 
"Behold,  before  you,"  said  he,  "the  infinite  sea,  which  ex- 
tends even  beyon*!  the  sun  beams.  As  to  these  islands  which 
lie  to  the  right  and  left,  they  are  all  subject  to  my  sway. 
They  possess  but  little  gold,  but  the  deep  places  of  the  sea 
around  them  are  full  of  pearls.  Continue  to  be  my  friends, 
and  you  shall  have  as  many  as  you  desire ;  for  I  value  your 
friendship  more  than  pearls,  and,  as  far  as  in  me  lies,  will 
never  forfeit  it." 

He  then  pointed  to  the  main  laiid,  where  it  stretched  to- 
wards the  east,  mountain  beyond  mountain,  until  the  summit 
of  the  last  faded  in  the  distance,  and  was  scared}^  seen  above 
the  watery  horizon.  In  that  direction,  he  said,  there  lay  a 
vast  country  of  inexhaustible  riches,  inhabited  by  a  mighty 
nation.  He  went  on  to  repeat  the  vague  but  wonderful  ru- 
mours which  the  Spaniards  had  frecpiently  heard  about  the 
great  kingdom  of  Peru.  Pizarro  listened  greedily  to  his  words, 
and  Avhile  his  eye  followed  the  finger  of  the  cacique,  as  it 
ranged  along  the  lino  of  shadowy  coast,  his  daring  mind  kin- 
dled with  the  thought  of  seeking  this  golden  empire  beyond 
the  waters.* 

Before  leaving  the  island,  the  two  captnins  impressed  the 
cacique  with  so  great  an  idea  of  the  power  of  the  king  of  Cas- 
tile, that  he  agreed  to  become  his  vassal,  and  to  render  him  an 
annual  ti'ibute  of  one  hundred  pounds  weight  of  pearls. 

The  party  haAing  returned  in  safety  to  the  mainland,  though 
to  a  dittei-ent  i)lae(?  from  that  where  they  had  embarked,  Ga.s- 
par  Morales  sent  Ms  relation,  Bernardo  Morales,  with  ten  men 


♦  Ilerrera,  d.  2, 1.  i.  c.  iv.    P.  Martyr,  d.  3,  c.  x. 


160  SPAmsn   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERY 

in  quest  of  Peiialosa  and  his  companions,  who  had  remained  in 
the  viUage  of  Tutibra. 

Unfortunately  for  the  Spaniards,  during  the  absence  of  the 
commanders,  this  Penalosa  had  so  exasperated  the  natives  by 
tiis  misconduct,  that  a  conspii-acy  had  been  formed  by  the 
caciques  along  the  coast  to  massacre  the  whole  of  the  strangers, 
when  the  party  should  return  from  the  islands. 

Bernardo  Morales  and  his  companions,  on  their  way  in 
quest  of  Peiialosa,  put  up  for  the  night  in  the  village  of  a 
cacique  named  Chuchama,  who  was  one  of  the  conspu-ators. 
They  were  entertained  with  pretended  hospitahty.  In  the 
dead  of  the  night,  however,  the  house  in  which  they  were 
Bleeping  was  wrapped  in  flames,  and  most  of  them  were  de- 
stroyed. Chuchama  then  prepared  with  his  confederates  to 
attack  the  main  body  of  the  Spaniards  who  remained  with 
Morales  and  Pizarro. 

Fortunately  for  the  latter,  there  was  among  the  Indians  who 
had  accompanied  them  to  the  islands  a  cacique  named  Chi- 
ruca,  who  was  in  secret  correspondence  with  the  conspirators. 
Some  circumstances  in  his  conduct  excited  their  suspicions; 
they  put  him  to  the  torture  and  drew  from  him  a  relation  of 
the  massacre  of  their  companions,  and  of  the  attack  with 
which  they  were  menaced. 

Llorales  and  Pizarro  were  at  first  appalled  by  the  over- 
whelming danger  which  surrounded  them.  Concealing  their 
agitation,  however,  they  compelled  Chiruca  to  send  a  message 
to  each  of  the  confederate  caciques,  inviting  him  to  a  secret 
conference,  under  pretence  of  giving  him  important  informa- 
tion. The  caciques  came  at  the  summons:  they  were  thus 
taken  one  by  one  to  the  number  of  eighteen,  and  put  in  chains. 
Just  at  this  juncture  Peiialosa  arrived  with  thirty  men  who 
had  remained  with  him  at  Tutibra.  Their  arrival  was  haUed 
with  joy  by  their  comrades,  who  had  given  them  up  for  lost. 
Encouraged  by  this  imexpected  reinforcement,  the  Spaniards 
now  attacked  by  surprise  the  main  body  of  confederate  In- 
dians,  who,  being  ignorant  of  the  discovery  of  their  plot,  and 
capture  of  their  caciques,  were  awaiting  the  return  of  the  lat- 
ter in  a  state  of  negligent  security. 

Pizarro  led  the  van,  and  set  upon  the  enemy  at  daybrealt 
with  the  old  Spanish  war-cry  of  Santiago !  It  was  a  slaughtei- 
rather  than  a  battle,  for  the  Indians  were  unprepared  for  re- 
sistance. Before  sunrise,  seven  hundred  lay  dead  upon  the 
field.    Returning  from  the  massacre,  the  commanders  doomed 


VASCO  NUFEZ  DE  BALBOA.  101 

the  caciques  who  wero  in  chains  to  be  torn  in  pieces  by  the 
bloodhounds ;  nor  was  even  Cliii"uca  spared  from  this  sangui- 
nary sentence.  Notwithstanding  this  bloody  revenge,  the 
vindictive  spirit  of  the  commanders  was  still  unappcasod,  and 
they  set  off  to  surprise  the  village  of  a  cacique  named  Bini, 
who  dwelt  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Michael.  Ho 
was  famed  for  valour  and  for  cruelty ;  his  dwelling  was  sur- 
roimded  by  the  weapons  and  other  trophies  of  those  whom  he 
had  vanquished ;  and  he  was  said  never  to  give  quarter. 

The  Spaniards  assailed  his  village  before  daybreak  with  fire 
and  sword,  and  made  dreadful  havoc.  Biru  escaped  from  his 
burning  habitation,  rallied  his  people,  kept  up  a  galling  fight 
throughout  the  greater  part  of  that  day,  and  handled  the 
Spaniards  so  roughly,  that,  when  he  drew  ofl:  at  night,  they 
did  not  venture  to  j^ursue  him,  but  returned  right  gladly  from 
his  territory.  According  to  some  of  the  Spanish  writers,  the 
kingdom  of  Peru  derived  its  name  from  this  warlike  cacique, 
through  a  blunder  of  the  early  discoverers;  tlie  assertion, 
however,  is  believed  to  be  erroneous. 

The  Spanish  had  pushed  their  bloody  revenge  to  an  extreme, 
and  were  now  doomed  to  suffer  from  the  recoil.  In  the  fury 
of  their  passion^^,  they  had  forgotten  that  they  were  but  a 
handfid  of  nien  surrounded  by  savage  nations.  Returning 
wearied  and  disheartened  ft'om  the  battle  with  Biru,  they  were 
waylaid  and  assaulted  by  a  host  of  Indians  led  on  by  the  son 
of  Chiruca.  A  javelin  from  liis  hand  pierced  one  of  the 
Spaniards  through  the  breast  and  come  out  between  the 
shoulders;  several  others  were  wounded,  and  the  remainder 
were  harassed  by  a  galling  fire  kept  up  from  among  rocks 
and  bushes. 

Dismayed  at  the  implacable  vengeance  they  had  aroused,  the 
Spaniards  hastened  to  abandon  these  hostile  shores  and  make 
the  best  of  their  way  back  to  Darien.  The  Indians,  however, 
wore  not  to  be  appeased  by  the  mei"e  departure  of  the  in- 
truders. They  followed  them  porseveringly  for  seven  days, 
hanging  on  their  skirts,  and  harassing  them  by  continual 
alarnis.  ^Morales  and  Pizarro,  seeing  the  obstinacy  of  their 
pursuit,  endenvoiu-el  to  gain  a  march  upon  theni  by  strata- 
gem. Making  large  fires  as  usual  one  night  about  the  place 
of  their  encampment,  they  left  them  burning  to  deceive  the 
enemy  while  they  made  a  rapid  retreat.  Among  their  num- 
ber was  one  poor  fellow  named  Velasquez,  who  was  so  griev- 
ously wounded  that  he  could  not  walk.     Unable  to  accompanj/ 


162  SPAJVISII   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

his  countrymen  in  their  flight,  and  dreading  to  fall  int,i  the 
merciless  hands  of  the  savages,  he  determined  to  hang  him- 
self, nor  could  the  prayers  and  even  tears  of  his  comrades  dis- 
suade him  from  his  purpose. 

The  stratagem  of  the  Spaniards,  however,  was  unavailing. 
Their  retreat  was  perceived,  and  at  daybreak,  to  their  dismay, 
they  found  themselves  surrounded  by  three  squadrons  of  sav- 
ages. Unable,  in  their  haggard  state,  to  make  head  against 
so  many  foes,  they  remained  drawn  up  all  day  on  the  defen- 
sive, some  watching  while  others  reposed.  At  night  they  ht 
their  fires  and  again  attempted  to  make  a  secret  retreat.  The 
Indians,  however,  were  as  usual  on  their  traces,  and  wounded 
several  with  arrows.  Thus  pressed  and  goaded,  the  Spaniards 
became  desperate,  and  fought  like  madmen,  rushing  upon  the 
very  darts  of  the  enemy. 

Morales  now  resorted  to  an  inhuman  and  fruitless  expedient 
to  retard  his  pursuers.  He  caused  several  Indian  prisoners  to 
be  slain,  hoping  that  their  friends  would  stop  to  lament  over 
them ;  but  the  sight  of  their  mangled  bodies  only  increased  the 
fury  of  the  savages  and  the  obstinacy  of  their  pursuit. 

For  nine  days  were  the  Sj^aniards  hunted  ua  this  manner 
about  the  woods  and  mountains,  the  swamps  and  fens,  wander- 
ing they  knew  not  whither,  and  returning  upon  their  steps, 
until,  to  their  dismay,  they  found  themselves  in  the  very  place 
where,  several  days  previously,  they  had  been  surrounded  by 
the  three  squadrons. 

Many  now  began  to  despair  of  ever  escaping  -svith  life  from 
this  trackless  wilderness,  thus  teeming  with  deadly  foes.  It 
was  with  difficulty  their  commanders  could  rally  their  spirits, 
and  encourage  them  to  persevere.  Entering  a  thick  forest 
they  were  again  assailed  by  a  band  of  Indians,  but  despair  and 
fury  gave  them  strength :  they  fought  like  wild  beasts  rather 
than  like  men,  and  routed  the  foe  with  dreadful  carnage. 
They  had  hoped  to  gain  a  breathing  time  by  this  victory,  but  a 
new  distress  attended  them.  They  got  entangled  in  one  of 
those  deep  and  dismal  marshes  wliich  abound  on  those  coasts, 
and  in  which  the  wanderer  is  often  drowned  or  suffocated. 
For  a  whole  day  they  toiled  through  brake  and  bramble,  and 
miry  fen,  with  the  water  reaching  to  their  girdles.  At  length 
they  extricated  themselves  from  the  swamp,  and  arrived  at 
the  sea  shore.  The  tide  was  out,  but  was  about  to  return,  and 
on  this  coast  it  rises  rapidly  to  a  greats  height.  Fearing  to  be 
overwhelmed  by  the  rising  surf,  they  hastened  to  climb  a  rock 


VASCO  NU^EZ  I)K  BALBOA.  1G3 

out  of  reach  of  the  swv^lHng  waters.  IToro  they  threw  them- 
selves on  the  earth,  pantinpj  with  fatig^ie  and  abandoned  to 
despair.  A  savage  wilderness  filled  with  still  more  savage 
foes,  was  on  one  side,  on  the  other  the  roaring  sea.  How  were 
they  to  extricate  themselves  from  these  surrounding  perils? 
While  reflecting  on  their  desperate  situation,  they  heard  the 
voices  of  Indians.  On  looking  cautiously  round,  they  beheld 
four  canoes  entering  a  neighbouring  creek.  A  party  was  im- 
mediately despatched  who  came  upon  the  savages  by  surprise, 
drove  them  into  the  woods,  and  seized  upon  the  canoes.  In 
these  frail  barks  the  Spaniards  escapei  from  their  perilous 
neighbourhood,  and,  traversing  the  Gulf  of  St.  Mchael,  landed 
in  a  less  hostile  part,  from  whence  they  set  out  a  second  time 
across  the  moimtains. 

It  is  needless  to  recount  the  other  hardships  they  endured, 
and  their  further  conflicts  with  the  Indians ;  suffice  it  to  say, 
after  a  series  of  almost  incredible  sufferings  and  disasters, 
they  at  length  arrived  in  a  battered  and  emaciated  condition 
at  Darien.  Throughout  all  their  toils  and  troubles,  however, 
they  had  managed  to  preserve  a  part  of  the  treasure  they  had 
gained  in  the  islands ;  especially  the  pearls  given  them  by  the 
cacique  of  Isla  Rica.  These  were  objects  of  universal  admira- 
tion. One  of  them  was  put  up  at  auction,  and  bought  by 
Pedrarias,  and  was  afterwards  presented  by  his  wife  Doiia 
Isabella  de  Bobadilla  to  the  Empress,  who,  in  returji,  gave  her 
four  thousand  ducats.* 

Such  was  the  cupidity  of  the  colonists,  that  the  sight  of 
these  pearls  and  the  reputed  wealth  of  the  islands  of  the 
Southern  Sea,  and  the  kingdoms  on  its  borders,  made  far 
greater  impression  on  the  pubhc  mind,  than  the  tale  told  by 
the  adventurers  of  all  the  horrors  they  had  passed ;  and  every 
one  Avas  eager  to  seek  these  wealthy  regions  beyond  the 
mountains. 

♦  Herrera,  Hist.  Ind.  d.  2,  I.  i.  c.  4. 


164  SPANISH  VO  YA  GES  OF  DISCO  VER  T. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

UNFORTUNATE  ENTERPRISES  OF  THE  OFFICERS  OF  PEDRARIAS — 
MATRIMONIAL  COMPACT  BETWEEN  THE  GOVERNOR  AND  VASCO 
NUNEZ. 

In  narrating  the  preceding  expedition  of  Morales  and  Pi- 
zarro,  we  have  been  tempted  into  what  may  almost  be  deemed 
an  episode,  though  it  serves  to  place  in  a  proper  light  the  lurk- 
ing diflQculties  and  dangers  which  beset  the  expeditions  of 
Vasco  Nuiiez  to  the  same  regions,  and  his  superior  prudence 
and  management  in  avoiding  them.  It  is  not  the  object  of 
this  narrative,  however,  to  record  the  general  events  of  the 
colony  under  the  administi'ation  of  Don  Pedrarias  Davila. 
"We  refrain,  therefore,  from  detaUing  various  expeditions  set  on 
foot  by  him  to  explore  and  subjugate  the  surrounding  country ; 
and  which,  being  ignorantly  or  rashly  conducted,  too  often 
ended  in  misfortune  and  disgrace.  One  of  these  was  to  the 
province  of  Zenu,  where  gold  was  supposed  to  be  taken  in  the 
rivers  in  nets ;  and  where  the  Bachelor  Enciso  once  undertook 
to  invade  the  sepulchres.  A  captain  named  Francisco  Be- 
cerra  penetrated  into  this  country  at  the  head  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty  men,  well  armed  and  equipped,  and  provided  with 
three  pieces  of  artillery ;  but  neither  the  commander  nor  any 
of  his  men  returned.  An  Indian  boy  who  accompanied  them 
was  the  only  one  who  escaped,  and  told  the  dismal  tale  of  their 
having  fallen  victims  to  the  assaults  and  stratagems  and 
poisoned  arrows  of  the  Indians. 

Another  band  was  defeated  by  Tubanama,  the  ferocious  ca- 
cique of  the  mountains,  who  bore  as  banners  the  bloody  shirts 
of  the  Spaniards  he  had  slain  in  former  battles.  In  fine,  the 
colony  became  so  weakened  by  these  repeated  losses,  and  the 
savages  so  emboldened  by  success,  that  the  latter  beleaguered 
it  with  their  forces,  harassed  it  by  assaults  and  ambuscades, 
and  reduced  it  to  great  extremity.  Such  was  the  alarm  in 
Darien,  says  the  Bishop  Las  Casas,  that  the  people  feared  to 
be  burnt  in  their  houses.  They  kept  a  watchful  eye  upon  the 
mountains,  the  plains,  and  the  very  branches  of  the  trees. 
Their  imaginations  were  infected  by  their  fears.  If  they 
looked  toward  the  land,  the  long,  waving  grass  of  the  savan- 
nahs appeared  to  them  to  be  moving  hosts  of  Indians.  If  they 
looked  towards  the  sea,  they  fancied  they  beheld  fleets  of 


VAS'CO  NU^EZ  DE  BALBOA.  165 

canoes  in  the  distance.  Pedrarias  endeavoured  to  prevent  all 
rumours  from  abroad  that  might  increase  this  fevered  state  of 
alarm;  at  the  same  time  he  ordered  the  smelting-house  to  be 
closed,  which  was  never  done  but  in  time  of  war.  This  was 
done  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Bishop,  who  caused  prayers  to 
be  put  up,  and  fasts  proclaimed,  to  avert  the  mipending 
calamities. 

While  Pedrarias  was  harassed  and  perplexed  by  these  com- 
plicated evils,  he  was  haunted  by  continual  apprehensions  of 
the  ultimate  ascendency  of  Vasco  Nunez.  He  knew  him  to  be 
beloved  by  the  people,  and  befriended  by  the  Bishop ;  and  he 
had  received  proofs  that  his  services  were  highly  appreciated 
by  the  king.  He  knew  also  that  representations  had  been  sent 
home  by  him  and  his  partisans,  of  the  evils  and  abuses  of  the 
colony  under  the  present  rule,  and  of  the  necessity  of  a  more 
active  and  efficient  governor.  He  dreaded  lest  those  represen- 
tations should  ultimately  succeed;  that  he  should  be  under- 
mined in  the  royal  favour,  and  Vasco  Nunez  be  elevated  upon 
his  ruins. 

The  politic  bishop  perceived  the  uneasy  state  of  the  gover- 
nor's mind,  and  endeavoured,  by  means  of  his  apprehensions, 
to  effect  that  reconcihation  which  he  had  sought  in  vain  to 
produce  through  more  generous  motives.  He  i-epresented  to 
him  that  his  treatment  of  Vasco  Nunez  was  odious  in  the  eyes 
of  the  people,  and  must  eventually  draw  on  him  the  displea- 
sure of  his  sovereign.  "But  why  persist,"  added  he,  "in 
driving  a  man  to  become  your  deadliest  enemy,  whom  you 
may  grapple  to  your  side  as  your  firmest  friend?  You  have 
several  daughters — give  him  one  in  marriage ;  you  will  then 
have  for  a  son-in-law  a  man  of  merit  and  popularitj'',  who  is  a 
hidalgo  by  birth,  and  a  favourite  of  the  king.  You  are  ad- 
vanced in  life  and  infirm;  he  is  in  the  prime  and  vigour  of  his 
days,  and  possessed  of  great  activity.  You  can  makf^  him 
your  lieutenant ;  and  wl(ilo  you  rejiosr;  from  your  toils,  he  can 
carry  on  the  affairs  of  the  folony  with  spirit  and  enterprise; 
and  all  his  achievements  will  redound  to  the  advancement  of 
your  family  and  the  splendour  of  your  administration." 

The  governor  and  his  lady  were  won  by  the  eloquence  of 
the  bishop  and  readily  listened  to  his  suggestions;  and  Vasco 
Nunez  was  but  ton  happy  to  effect  a  reconciliation  on  such 
flatterinp:  terms.  Written  articles  were  accordingly  drawn  up 
and  exchanged,  contracting  a  marriage  between  him  and  the 
eldest  daughter  of  Pedrarias.    The  young  lady  was  then  in 


166  SPAJVISIT  VOTAGES  OF  DISCO YERY. 

Spain,  but  was  to  be  sent  for,  and  the  nuptials  were  to  be  cele- 
brated on  her  arrival  at  Darien. 

Having  thus  fulfilled  his  office  of  peace-maker,  and  settled, 
as  he  supposed,  all  feuds  and  jealousies  on  the  sure  and  per- 
manent foundation  of  family  alliance,  the  worthy  bishop  de- 
parted shortly  afterwards  for  Spain. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


VASCO    NUNEZ    TRANSPORTS    SHIPS    ACROSS    THE    MOUNTAINS    TO 
THE   PxVCIFIC   OCEAN. — (1516.) 

Behold  Vasco  Nunez  once  more  in  the  high  career  of  pros- 
perity !  His  most  implacable  enemy  had  suddenly  been  con- 
verted into  his  dearest  friend ;  for  the  governor,  now  that  he 
looked  upon  him  as  bis  son-in-law,  loaded  him  with  favours. 
Above  all,  he  authorized  him  to  buill  brigantines  and  make  all 
the  necessary  preparations  for  his  long-desired  expedition  to 
explore  the  Southern  Ocean.  The  place  appointed  for  these 
purposes  was  the  port  of  Careta,  situated  to  the  west  of 
Darien ;  from  whence  there  was  supposed  to  be  the  most  con- 
venient roujbe  across  the  mountains.  A  town  called  Ada  had 
been  founded  at  this  port;  and  the  fortress  was  already 
erected,  of  which  Lope  de  Olano  was  Alcalde;  Vasco  Nuiiez 
was  now  empowered  to  continue  the  building  of  the  town. 
Two  hundred  men  were  placed  under  his  command  to  aid  him 
in  carrying  his  plans  into  execution,  and  a  suna  of  money  was 
advanced  to  him  out  of  the  royal  treasury.  His  supply  of 
funds,  however,  was  not  sufficient ;  but  he  received  assistance 
from  a  private  source.  There  was  a  notary  at  Darien,  named 
Hernando  de  ArgueUo,  a  man  of  some  consequence  in  the  com- 
munity, and  who  had  been  one  of  the  most  furious  opponents 
of  the  unfortunate  Nicuesa.  He  had  amassed  considerable 
property,  and  now  embarked  a  great  part  of  it  in  the  proposed 
enterprise,  on  condition,  no  doubt,  of  sharing  largely  in  its 
anticipated  profits. 

On  arriving  at  Ada,  Vasco  Nuiiez  set  to  work  to  prepare 
the  materials  of  four  brigantines  that  were  to  be  launched  into 
the  South  Sea.  The  timber  was  felled  on  the  Atlantic  sea- 
board;  and  was  then,  with  the  anchors  and  rigging,  trans- 


VASCO  NUNEZ  BE  BALBOA.  107 

ported  across  the  lofty  ridge  of  mountains  to  the  opposite 
shores  of  the  isthmus.  Several  Spaniards,  thirty  Negroes,  and 
a  great  number  of  Indians  were  employed  for  the  purpose. 
They  had  no  other  roads  but  Indian  paths,  straggling  through 
almost  impervious  forests,  across  torrents,  and  up  rugged 
defiles,  broken  by  rocks  and  precipices.  In  this  way  they 
toiled  like  ants  up  the  mountains,  with  their  ponderous  bur- 
thens, under  the  scorching  rays  of  a  tropical  sun.  Many  of 
the  poor  Indians  sank  by  the  way  and  perished  under  this  stu- 
pendous task.  The  Spaniards  and  Negroes,  being  of  hardier 
constitutions,  were  better  able  to  cope  with  the  incredible 
hardships  to  w^hich  they  were  subjected.  On  the  summit  of 
the  mountains  a  house  had  been  provided  for  their  temporary 
repose.  After  remaining  here  a  httle  time  to  refresh  them- 
selves and  gain  new  strength,  they  renewed  their  labours, 
descending  the  opposite  side  of  the  mountains  until  they 
reached  the  navigable  part  of  a  river,  which  they  called  the 
Balsas,  and  which  flowed  into  the  Pacific. 

Much  time  and  tix)uble  and  manj"  lives  were  expended  on 
this  arduous  undertaking,  before  they  had  transported  to  the 
river  sufficient  tunber  for  two  brigantines;  while  the  timber 
for  the  other  two,  and  the  rigging  and  munitions  for  the  whole, 
yet  remained  to  be  brought.  To  add  to  their  difficulties,  they 
had  scarcely  begun  to  work  upon  the  timber  before  they  dis- 
covered that  it  was  totally  useless,  being  subject  to  the  ravagec 
of  the  worms  from  having  been  cut  in  the  vicinity  of  salt 
water.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  to  begin  anew,  and  fell 
trees  on  the  border  of  the  river. 

Vasco  Nuiiez  maintained  his  patience  and  perseverance,  and 
displayed  admirable  management  under  tbese  delays  and  diffi- 
culties. Their  supply  of  food  being  scanty,  ho  divided  his 
people,  Spaniards,  Negroes,  and  Indians,  into  three  bands ;  one 
was  to  cut  and  saw  the  wood,  another  to  bring  the  rigging  and 
iron-work  from  Ada,  which  was  twenty-two  leagues  distant ; 
and  the  third  to  forage  the  neighbouring  country  for  pro- 
visions. 

Scarcely  was  the  timber  felled  and  shaped  for  use  when  the 
rains  set  in,  and  the  river  SAvelled  and  overflowed  its  banks  so 
suddenly,  that  the  workmen  barely  escaped  with  their  lives 
by  clambering  into  the  trees;  wliilo  the  wood  on  which  they 
had  been  working  was  either  buried  in  sand  or  slime,  or  swept 
away  by  the  raging  torrent.  Famine  was  soon  added  to  their 
other  distresses.    The  foraging  party  was  absent  and  did  not 


168  SPANISH  VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

return  with  food ;  and  the  swelhng  of  the  river  cut  them  ofE 
from  that  part  of  the  country  fi-om  whence  they  obtained  their 
suppUes.  They  were  reduced,  therefore,  to  such  scarcity,  as  to 
be  fain  to  assuage  their  hunger  with  such  roots  as  they  could 
gather  in  the  forests. 

In  this  extremity  the  Indians  bethought  themselves  of  one 
of  their  rude  and  simple  expedients.  Plunging  into  the  river 
they  fastened  a  number  of  logs  together  with  withes,  and  con- 
nected them  with  the  opposite  bank  so  as  to  make  a  floating 
bridge.  On  tliis  a  party  of  the  Spaniards  crossed  with  gi-eat 
difficulty  and  peril,  from  the  violence  of  the  current,  and  the 
flexibility  of  the  bridge,  which  often  sank  beneath  them  until 
the  water  rose  above  their  girdles.  On  being  safely  landed, 
they  foraged  the  neighbourhood,  and  procured  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions sufficient  for  the  present  emergency. 

When  the  river  subsided  the  workmen  again  resumed  their 
labours;  a  number  of  recruits  arrived  from  Ada,  bringing 
various  supplies,  and  the  business  of  the  enterprise  was  pressed 
with  redoubled  ardour,  until,  at  length,  after  a  series  of  in- 
credible toils  and  hardships,  Vasco  Nunez  had  the  satisfaction 
to  behold  two  of  his  brigantines  floating  on  the  river  Balsas. 
As  soon  as  they  could  be  equipped  for  sea,  he  embarked  in 
them  with  as  many  Spaniards  as  they  could  carry ;  and,  issu- 
ing forth  from  the  river,  launched  triumphantly  on  the  great 
ocean  he  had  discovei'ed. 

"We  can  readily  imagine  the  exultation  of  this  intrepid  ad- 
venturer, and  how  amply  he  was  repaid  for  all  his  sufferings 
when  he  first  spread  a  sail  upon  that  untra versed  ocean  and 
felt  that  the  range  of  an  unknown  world  was  open  to  him. 

There  are  points  in  the  history  of  these  Spanish  discoveries 
of  the  western  hemisphere  that  make  us  pause  with  wonder 
and  admiration  at  the  daring  spirit  of  the  men  who  conducted 
them  and  the  appalling  difficulties  surmounted  by  their  cour- 
age and  perseverance.  We  know  few  instances,  however, 
more  striking  than  this  piecemeal  transportation  across  the 
mountains  of  Darien  of  the  first  European  ships  that  ploughed 
the  waves  of  the  Pacific ;  and  we  can  readily  excuse  the  boast 
of  the  old  Castilian  writers  when  they  exclaim  ' '  that  none  but 
Spaniards  could  ever  have  conceived  or  persisted  in  such  an 
undertaking,  and  no  commander  in  the  new  world  but  Vasco 
Nufiez  could  have  conducted  it  to  a  successful  issue."  * 

*  Herrera,  d.  3,  1.  ii.  c.  11. 


VASCO  NUNEZ  DE  BALBOA.  1G9 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

CRUISE  OF  VASCO  NUNEZ  IN  THE  SOUTHERN  SEA— RUMOURS  FROM 

ACLA, 

The  first  cruise  of  Yasco  Nunez  was  to  the  group  of  Pearl 
islands,  on  the  principal  one  of  which  he  disembarked  the 
gi-eater  part  of  his  crews,  and  despatched  the  brigantines  to  the 
main  land  to  bring  off  the  remainder.  It  was  his  intention  to 
construct  the  other  two  vessels  of  his  proposed  squadron  at  this 
island.  During  the  absence  of  the  brigantines  he  ranged  tlio 
island  with  his  men  to  collect  provisions  and  to  establish  a 
complete  sway  over  the  natives.  On  the  return  of  his  vessels, 
and  while  preparations  were  making  for  the  building  of  the 
others,  he  embarked  with  a  hundred  men  and  departed  on  a 
reconnoitering  cruise  to  the  eastAvard  towards  the  region 
pointed  out  by  tlie  Indians  as  abounding  in  riches. 

Having  passed  about  twenty  leagues  beyond  the  Gulf  of  San 
Miguel,  the  mariners  were  filled  with  apprehension  at  behold- 
ing a  great  number  of  whales,  which  resembled  a  reef  of  rocks 
stretching  far  into  the  sea  and  lashed  by  breakers.  In  an  un- 
known ocean  like  this  every  unusual  object  is  apt  to  inspu-e 
alarm.  The  seamen  feared  to  approach  these  fancied  dangers 
in  the  dark;  Vasco  Nufiez  anchored,  therefore,  for  the  night 
under  a  point  of  land,  intending  to  continue  in  the  same  direc- 
tion on  the  following  day.  When  the  morning  dawned,  how- 
ever, the  wind  had  changed  and  was  contrary;  whereupon  he 
altered  his  course  and  thus  abandoned  a  cruise,  which,  if  per- 
severed Id,  might  have  terminated  in  the  discovery  of  Peru! 
Steering  for  the  main  land,  he  anchored  on  that  part  of  the 
coast  governed  by  the  cacique  Chuchama,  who  had  massacred 
Bernardo  Morales  and  his  companions  when  reposing  in  his 
village.  Here  landing  with  his  men,  Vasco  Nmlez  came  sud- 
denly upon  the  dwelling  of  the  cacique.  The  Indians  sallied 
forth  to  defend  their  homes,  but  were  routed  with  great  Idss; 
and  ample  vengeance  was  taken  upon  them  for  their  outrage 
upon  the  laws  of  hospitality.  Having  thus  avenged  the  d(>ath 
of  his  countrymen,  Vasco  Nunez  re-embarked  and  returned  to 
Isla  Rica. 

Ho  now  applied  himself  diligently  to  complete  the  building 
of  his  brigantines,  despatching  men  to  Ada  to  bring  the  neees- 


170  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

sary  stores  and  rigging  across  the  mountains.  While  thus 
occupied,  a  rumour  reached  him  that  a  new  governor  named 
Lope  de  Sosa  was  coming  out  from  Spain  to  supersede  Pedra- 
rias.  Vasco  Nunez  was  troubled  at  these  tidings.  A  new  gov- 
ernor would  be  likely  to  adopt  new  measures,  or  to  have  new 
favourites.  He  feared,  therefore,  that  some  order  might  come 
to  suspend  or  embarrass  his  expedition,  or  that  the  command 
of  it  might  be  given  to  another.  In  his  perplexity  he  held  a 
consultation  with  several  of  his  confidential  officers. 

After  some  debate,  it  was  agreed  among  them  that  a  trusliy 
and  intelligent  person  should  be  sent  as  a  scout  to  Ada  un- 
der pretence  of  procuring  munitions  for  the  ships.  Should 
he  find  Pedrarias  in  quiet  possession  of  the  government,  he 
was  to  account  to  him  for  the  delay  of  the  expedition ;  to  re- 
quest that  the  time  allotted  to  it  might  be  extended,  and  to 
request  reinforcements  and  supplies.  Should  he  find,  however, 
that  a  new  governor  was  actually  arrived,  he  was  to  return 
immediately  with  the  tidings.  In  such  case  it  was  resolved  to 
put  to  sea  before  any  contrary  orders  could  arrive,  trusting 
eventually  to  excuse  themselves  on  the  plea  of  zeal  and  good 
intentions. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


RECONNOITERING     EXPEDITION    OF     GARABITO  —  STRATAGEM     OP 
PEDRARIAS  TO  ENTRAP  VASCO   NUNEZ. 

The  person  entrusted  with  the  reconnoitering  expedition  to 
Ada  was  Andres  Garabito,  in  whose  fidelity  and  discretion 
Vasco  Nuiiex  had  implicit  confidence.  His  confidence  was 
destined  to  be  fatally  deceived.  According  to  the  assertions  of 
contemporaries,  this  Garabito  cherisiied  a  secret  and  vindic- 
tive enmity  against  his  commander,  arising  from  a  simple  but 
a  natural  cause.  Vasco  Nufez  had  continued  to  have  a  fond- 
ness for  the  Indian  damsel,  daughter  of  the  cacique  Careta, 
whom  he  had  received  from  her  father  as  a  pledge  of  amity. 
Some  dispute  arose  concerning  her  on  one  occasion  between 
him  and  Garabito,  in  the  course  of  which  he  expressed  himself 
in  severe  and  gahing  language.  Garabito  was  deeply  morti- 
.fied  at  some  of  his  expressions,  and,  being  of  a  malignant 
spirit,   determined  on  a    dastardly  revenge.      He  wrote  pri- 


VASCO  NU^KZ  BE  BALBOA.  171 

vately  to  Podrarias,  assiirinp:  liim  that  Vasco  Nunez  had  no 
intention  of  soleninizmg  his  marriage  witli  his  daughter,  being 
completely  under  the  influenee  of  an  Indian  paramour;  that 
he  made  use  of  the  friendsliip  of  Pedrarias  nierely  to  further 
his  own  selfish  views,  intending,  as  soon  as  his  ships  were 
ready,  to  throw  off  all  allegiance,  and  to  put  to  sea  as  an  inde- 
pendent conunander. 

Tliis  mischievous  letter  Garabito  had  written  immediately 
after  the  last  departure  of  Vasco  Nunez  from  Ada.  Its  effects 
upon  the  proud  and  jealous  spirit  of  the  governor  may  easUy 
be  conceived.  All  his  former  suspicions  were  inunediately  re- 
vived. They  acquired  strength  during  a  long  interval  that 
elapsed  without  tidings  being  received  from  the  expedition. 
There  were  designing  and  prejudiced  persons  at  hand  %vho  per- 
ceived and  quickened  these  jealous  feehngs  of  the  governor. 
Among  these  was  the  Bachelor  Corral,  who  cherished  a  deep 
grudge  against  Vasco  Nunez  for  having  once  thrown  him  into 
prison  for  his  factious  conduct;  and  Alonzo  de  la  Puente,  the 
royal  treasurer,  whom  Vasco  Nunez  had  affronted  by  demand- 
ing the  re-payment  of  a  loan.  Such  was  the  tempest  that  was 
gradually  gathering  in  the  factious  little  colony  of  Darien. 

The  subsequent  conduct  of  Garabito  gives  much  confirma- 
tion tO  the  charge  of  perfidy  that  has  been  advanced  against 
liim.  When  he  arrived  at  Ada  he  found  that  Pedrarias  re- 
mained in  possession  of  the  government;  for  his  intended 
successor  had  died  in  the  very  harbour.  The  conduct  and 
conversation  of  Garabito  wa>s  such  as  to  arouse  suspicions;  he 
was  arrested,  and  his  papei-s  and  lettei's  were  sent  to  Pedra- 
rias. When  examined  ho  readily  suffered  himself  to  bo 
wrought  upon  by  threats  of  punishment  and  promises  of 
pardon,  and  revealed  all  that  he  knew,  and  declared  still  more 
that  he  suspected  and  surmised,  of  the  plans  and  intentions  of 
Vasco  Nunez. 

The  arrest  of  Garabito,  and  the  seizure  of  his  letters,  pro- 
duced a  great  agitation  at  Darien.  It  was  considered  a  revival 
of  the  ancient  animosity  between  the  governor  and  Vasco 
Nunez,  and  the  friends  of  the  latter  trembled  for  his  safety. 

Hernando  de  Arguello,  especially,  was  in  great  alarm.  He 
had  embarked  the  most  of  his  fortune  in  the  expedition,  and 
the  failure  of  it  would  be  ruinous  to  him.  He  wrote  to  Vasco 
Nunez,  informing  him  of  the  critical  posture  of  affairs,  and 
urging  him  to  put  to  sea  without  delay.  He  wo\ild  be  pro- 
tected at  all  events,  he  said,  by  the  Jeronimite  Fathers  at  8au 


172  SPAmSH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEET. 

Domingo,  who  were  at  that  tune  all-powerful  in  the  new 
world,  and  who  regarded  his  expedition  as  calculated  to  pro- 
mote the  glory  of  God  as  well  as  the  doininion  of  the  king.  * 
This  letter  fell  uato  the  hands  of  Pedrarias,  and  convinced  him 
of  the  existence  of  a  dangerous  plot  against  his  authority.  He 
immediately  ordered  Arguello  to  be  arrested ;  and  now  devised 
means  to  get  Vasco  Nunez  within  his  power.  While  the  latter 
remained  on  the  shores  of  the  South  Sea  with  Ms  brigantines 
and  his  band  of  hearty  and  devoted  followers,  Pedrarias  knew 
that  it  would  be  in  vain  to  attempt  to  take  him  by  force. 
Dissembling  his  suspicions  and  intentions,  therefore,  he  wrote 
to  him  in  the  most  amicable  terms,  requesting  him  to  repair 
immediately  to  Ada,  as  he  wished  to  hold  a  conference  Avith 
him  about  the  impending  expedition.  Fearing,  however,  that 
Vasco  Nunez  might  suspect  Ms  motives  and  refuse  to  comply, 
he,  at  the  same  tune,  ordered  Francisco  Pizarro  to  muster  all 
the  amied  force  he  could  collect,  and  to  seek  and  arrest  his 
late  patron  and  commander  wherever  he  might  be  found. 

So  great  was  the  terror  inspired  by  the  arrest  of  ArgueUo, 
and  by  the  general  violence  of  Pedrarias,  that,  though  Vasco 
Nuiiez  was  a  favourite  with  the  great  mass  of  the  people,  no 
one  ventured  to  warn  him  of  the  danger  that  attended  his 
return  to  Ada. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


VASCO  NUNEZ  AND  THE  ASTROLOGER— HIS  RETURN  TO  ACLA. 

The  old  Spanish  writers  who  have  treated  of  the  fortunes  of 
■Vasco  Nuiiez,  record  an  anecdote  which  is  worthy  of  being 
cited,  as  characteristic  of  the  people  and  the  age.  Among  the 
motley  crowd  of  adventurers  lured  across  the  ocean  by  the 
reputed  wealth  and  wonders  of  the  new  world,  was  an  Italian 

*  In  consequence  of  the  eloquent  representations  made  to  the  Spanish  Govern- 
ment by  the  venerable  Las  Casas,  of  the  cruel  wrongs  and  oppressions  practised 
upon  ;he  Indians  in  the  colonies,  the  Cardinal  Ximenes,  in  1516,  sent  out  three 
Jeronimite  Fnars,  chosen  for  their  zeal  and  abilities,  clothed  with  full  powers  to 
inquire  into  and  remedi-  all  abuses,  and  to  take  all  proper  measures  for  the  good 
government,  religious  instiuction,  and  effectual  protection  of  the  natives.  The 
exercise  of  their  powers  at  San  Domingo  made  a  great  sensation  in  the  new  world, 
and,  f  jr  a  time,  had  a  beneficial  effect  in  checking  the  oppressive  and  licentious 
Conduct  of  tlio  '-oionists. 


VASCO  NUStEZ  BE  BALBOA.  173 

astrologer,  a  native  of  Venice,  named  Micer  Codro.  At  the 
time  that  Vasco  Nuiiez  held  supreme  sway  at  Darien,  this 
reader  of  the  stars  had  cast  his  horoscope,  and  pretended  to 
foretell  his  destiny.  Pointing  one  night  to  a  certain  star,  he 
assured  him  that  in  the  year  in  which  he  shoidd  behold  that 
star  in  a  part  of  the  heavens  which  he  designated,  his  life 
would  be  in  imminent  jeopardy ;  but  should  he  survive  this 
year  of  peril,  he  would  become  the  richest  and  most  renowned 
captain  throughout  the  Indies. 

Several  years,  it  is  added,  had  elapsed  since  this  prediction 
was  made ;  yet,  that  it  still  dwelt  in  the  mind  of  Vasco  Nunez, 
was  evident  from  the  following  circumstance.  While  waiting 
the  return  of  his  messenger,  Garabito,  he  was  on  the  shore  of 
Isla  Rica  one  serene  evenin.^;,  in  company  with  some  of  his 
officers,  when,  regarding  the  heavens,  he  beheld  the  fated  star 
exactly  in  that  part  of  the  firmament  which  had  been  pointed 
out  by  the  Italian  astrologer.  Turning  to  his  companions, 
with  a  smile,  "Behold,"  said  he,  "the  wisdom  of  those,  who 
believe  in  sooth-saj^ei's,  and,  above  all,  in  such  an  astrologer  as 
Micer  Codro !  According  to  his  prophecy,  I  should  now  be  in 
imminent  peril  of  my  life;  yet,  here  I  am,  within  reach  of  all 
my  wishes ;  sound  in  health,  with  four  brigantines  and  three 
hundred  men  at  my  command,  and  on  the  point  of  exploring 
this  great  southern  ocean." 

At  this  fated  jimcture,  say  the  chroniclers,  arrived  the 
hypocritical  letter  of  Pedrarias,  inviting  him  to  an  interview 
at  Ada!  The  discreet  reader  will  decide  for  himself  what 
credit  to  give  to  this  anecdote,  or  rather  what  allowance  to 
make  for  the  little  traits  of  coincidence  gratuitously  added  to 
the  original  fact  by  writers  who  delight  in  the  marvellous. 
The  tenor  of  this  letter  awakened  no  suspicion  in  the  breast  of 
Vasco  Nunez,  who  reposed  entire  confidence  in  the  amity  of 
the  governor  as  his  intended  father-in-law,  and  appears  to 
have  been  unconscious  of  any  thing  in  his  own  conduct  that 
could  warrant  hostility.  Lea\ing  his  sliips  in  command  of 
Francisco  Companon,  lie  departed  immediately  to  meet  the 
governor  at  Ada,  unattended  by  any  armed  force. 

The  messengers  wlio  had  brought  the  letter  maintained  at 
first  a  cautious  silence  as  to  the  events  which  had  trans]iired 
at  Darien.  They  were  gradually  won,  however,  by  the  frank 
and  genial  manners  of  Vasco  Nufiez,  and  grieved  to  see  so  gal- 
lant a  soldier  hurrying  into  the  snare.  Having  crossed  the 
mountains  and  drawn  near  to  Ada,  their  kind  feelings  got  the 


174  SPAKISn   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

better  of  their  caution,  and  they  revealed  the  ti-ue  nature  of 
their  errand,  and  the  hostile  intentions  of  Pedrarias.  Vasco 
Nunez  was  struck  with  astonishment  at  the  recital ;  but,  being 
Unconscious,  it  is  said,  of  any  evil  intention,  he  could  scarcely 
credit  this  sudden  hostility  in  a  man  who  had  but  recently 
promised  him  his  daughter  in  marriage.  He  imaguied  the 
whole  to  be  some  groundless  jealousy  which  his  own  appear- 
ance would  dispel,  and  accordingly  continued  on  his  journey. 
He  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  when  he  was  met  by  a 
band  of  armed  men,  led  by  Francisco  Pizarro.  The  latter 
stepped  forward  to  arrest  his  ancient  commander.  Vasco 
Nunez  paused  for  a  moment,  and  regarded  him  with  a  look 
of  reproachful  astonishment.  "How  is  this,  Francisco?"  ex- 
claimed he.  "Is  this  the  way  you  have  been  accustomed  to 
receive  me?"  Offering  no  further  remonstrance,  he  suffered 
himself  quietly  to  be  taken  prisoner  by  his  former  adherent, 
and  conducted  in  chains  to  Ada.  Here  he  was  thrown  into 
prison,  and  Bartolome  Hurtado,  once  his  favourite  oflBcer,  was 
sent  to  take  command  of  his  squadron. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

TRIAL  OF  VASCO   NUNEZ. 

Don  Pedrarias  concealed  his  exultation  at  the  success  of  the 
stratagem  by  which  he  had  ensnared  his  generous  and  con- 
fiding rival.  He  even  visited  hun  in  prison,  and  pretended 
deep  concern  at  being  obliged  to  treat  him  with  this  tem- 
porary rigour,  attributing  it  entirely  to  certain  accusations 
lodged  against  him  by  the  Treasurer  Alonzo  de  la  Puente, 
which  his  official  situation  compelled  him  to  notice  and  inves- 
tigate. 

"  Be  not  afflicted,  however,  my  son!"  said  the  hypocrite,  "an 
investigation  will,  doubtless,  not  merely  estabhsh  your  inno- 
cence, but  serve  to  render  your  zeal  and  loyalty  towards  your 
sovereign  still  more  conspicuous." 

WMle  Pedrarias  assiuned  this  sootliing  tone  towards  his 
prisoner,  he  urged  the  Alcalde  Mayor  Espinosa  to  proceed 
against  him  with  the  utmost  rigour  of  the  law. 

The  charge  brought  against  him  of  a  treasonable  conspiracy 


VASCO  NUS'EZ  BE  BALBOA.  175 

to  cast  off  all  allegiance  to  the  ci-own,  and  to  assume  an  inde- 
pendent sway  on  the  borders  of  the  Southern  Sea,  was  princi- 
pally supported  by  tlie  confessions  of  Andres  Garabito.  The 
evidence  is  also  cited  of  a  soldier,  who  stood  sentmel  one  night 
'near  the  quarters  of  Vasco  Nunez  on  Isla  Kica,  and  who,  being 
driven  to  take  shelter  from  tlie  rain  under  the  eaves  of 
the  house,  overheard  a  conversation  betweon  that  command- 
er and  certain  of  liis  officers,  wherein  they  agreed  to  put  to 
sea  with  the  squadron  on  their  own  account,  and  to  set  the 
governor  at  defiance.  This  testimony,  according  to  Las  Casas, 
arose  from  a  misconstruction  on  the  part  of  the  sentinel,  who 
only  heard  a  portion  of  their  conversation,  relating  to  their  in- 
tention of  sailing  without  waiting  for  orders,  incase  a  new  gov- 
ernor should  arrive  to  supersede  Pedrarias. 

The  governor  in  the  mean  time  informed  himself  from  day  to 
day  and  hour  to  hour  of  the  progress  of  the  trial,  and,  consid- 
ering the  evidence  sufficiently  strong  to  warrant  his  personal 
hostihty,  he  now  paid  another  visit  to  his  prisoner,  and,  throw- 
ing off  all  affectation  of  kindness,  upbraided  him  in  the  most 
passionate  manner. 

"Hitherto,"  said  he,  "I  have  treated  you  as  a  son,  because  I 
thought  you  loyal  to  your  king,  and  to  me  as  his  representa- 
tive ;  but  as  I  find  you  have  meditated  rebellion  against  the 
crown  of  Castile,  I  cast  you  off  from  my  affections,  and  shall 
henceforth  treat  you  as  an  enemy. " 

Vasco  Nunez  indignantly  repelled  the  charge,  and  appealed 
to  the  confiding  frankness  of  his  conduct  as  a  proof  of  inno- 
cence. "Had  I  been  conscious  of  my  guUt,"  said  he,  "what 
could  have  induced  me  to  come  here  and  put  myself  into  your 
hands?  Had  I  meditated  rebellion,  what  prevented  me  from 
carrying  it  into  effect?  I  had  four  ships  ready  to  weigh  anchor, 
three  hmidred  brave  men  at  my  command,  and  an  open  sea 
before  me.  What  had  I  to  do  but  to  spread  sail  and  press  for-^ 
ward?  There  was  no  doubt  of  finding  a  land,  whether  rich  or 
poor,  sufficient  for  me  and  mine,  far  beyond  the  reach  of  yoiu* 
control.  In  the  innocence  of  my  heart,  nowever,  I  came  here 
promptly,  at  your  mere  request,  and  my  reward  is  slander,  in- 
dignity, and  chains  I" 

The  noble  ;nid  ingenuous  appeal  of  Vasco  Nuiiez  had  no  effect 
on  the  prejudiced  feelings  of  the  governor ;  on  the  contrar.y ,  he 
was  but  the  more  exasperated  against  his  prisoner,  and  ordered 
that  his  irons  should  be  doubled. 

The  trial  was  now  urged  by  Mm  with  increased  eagerness. 


176  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

Lest  the  present  accusation  should  not  be  sufficient  to  effect 
the  ruin  of  his  victim,  the  old  inquest  into  his  conduct  as 
governor,  which  had  remained  suspended  for  many  years,  was 
revived,  and  he  was  charged  anew  with  the  wrongs  inflicted 
on  the  Bachelor  Enciso,  and  with  the  death  of  the  unfortunate" 
Nicuesa. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  charges,  the  trial  went  on  slowly, 
with  frequent  delays ;  for  the  Alcalde  Mayor,  Gaspar  de  Espi- 
nosa,  soeius  to  have  had  but  little  relish  for  the  task  assigned 
him,  and  to  have  needed  frequent  spurring  from  the  eager  and 
passionate  governor.  He  probably  considered  the  accused  as 
technically  guilty,  though  innocent  of  all  intentional  rebellion, 
but  was  ordered  to  decide  according  to  the  strict  letter  or  the 
law.  He  therefore  at  length  gave  a  reluctant  verdict  against 
Vasco  Nuilez,  but  recommended  him  to  mercy,  on  account  of 
his  great  services,  or  entreated  that,  at  least,  he  might  be  per- 
mitted to  appeal.  "No !"  said  the  unrelenting  Pedrarias.  " If 
he  has  merited  death,  let  Mm  suffer  death !"  He  accordingly 
condemned  him  to  be  beheaded.  The  same  sentence  was 
passed  upon  several  of  his  officers  who  were  implicated  in  his 
alleged  conspiracy ;  among  these  was  Hernando  de  Ai'guello, 
who  had  written  the  letter  to  Vasco  Nuniiez,  informing  him  of 
the  arrest  of  his  messenger,  and  advising  him  to  put  to  sea, 
without  heeding  the  hostility  of  Pedrarias.  As  to  the  perfidi- 
ous informer  Garabito,  he  was  pardoned  and  set  at  liberty. 

In  considering  this  case,  as  far  as  we  are  enabled,  from  the 
imperfect  testimony  that  remains  on  record,  we  are  inclined  to 
think  it  one  where  passion  and  self-interest  interfered  with  the 
pure  administration  of  justice.  Pedrarias  had  always  consid- 
ered Vasco  Nunez  as  a  dangerous  rival,  and,  though  his  jeal- 
ousy had  been  for  some  time  lulled  by  looking  on  him  as  an 
intended  son-in-law,  it  was  revived  by  the  suggestion  that  ho 
intended  to  evade  his  alliance,  and  to  dispute  his  authority. 
His  exasperated  feehngs  hurried  him  too  far  to  retreat,  and, 
having  loaded  his  prisoner  with  chains  and  indignities,  his 
death  became  indispensable  to  his  own  security. 

For  our  own  part,  we  have  little  doubt  that  it  was  the  fixed 
intention  of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  after  he  had  once  succeeded  in 
the  arduous  undertaking  of  transporting  his  ships  across  the 
mountains,  to  suffer  no  capricious  order  from  Pedrarias,  or 
any  other  governor,  to  defeat  the  enterprise  which  he  had  so 
long  meditated,  and  for  which  he  had  so  laboriouslj^  prepared. 
It  is  probable  he  may  have  expressed  such  general  determina^ 


VASCO  NUS'EZ  DE  BALBOA.  177 

tion  in  the  hearing  of  Garabito  and  of  others  of  his  companions. 
We  can  find  ample  excuse  for  such  a  resolution  in  his  con- 
sciousness of  his  own  deserts;  his  experience  of  past  hindrances 
to  his  expedition,  arisinp;  from  the  jealousy  of  others;  his  feel- 
ing of  some  degi-ee  of  authority,  from  his  office  of  Adelantado ; 
and  his  knowledge  of  the  favourable  disposition  and  kind 
intentions  of  his  sovereign  towards  Mm.  We  acquit  liim 
entirely  of  the  senseless  idea  of  rebelling  against  the  crown; 
and  suggest  these  considerations  in  palliation  of  any  meditated 
disobedience  of  Pedrarias,  should  such  a  charge  be  supposed  to 
have  been  substantiated. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

EXECUTION  OP  VASCO   NUNEZ.— (1517.) 

It  was  a  day  of  gloom  and  horror  at  Ada,  when  Yasco  Nunez 
aiifl  his  companions  were  led  forth  to  execution.  The  populace 
■were  moved  to  tears  at  the  unhappy  fate  of  a  man  whoso  gal- 
lant deeds  had  excited  their  admiration,  and  whose  generous 
qualities  had  won  their  hearts.  Most  of  them  regarded  him  as 
the  victim  of  a  jealous  tyrant ;  and  even  those  who  thought 
him  guilty,  saw  something  brave  and  brilliant  in  the  very  crime 
imputed  to  him.  Such,  however,  wan  the  general  dread  inspin^d 
by  the  severe  measures  of  Pedrarias,  that  no  one  dared  to  lift 
up  his  voice,  either  in  murmur  or  remonstrance. 

The  public  crier  walked  before  Vasco  Nuiiez,  proclaiming, 
"This  is  the  punishment  inflicted  by  command  of  the  king  and 
his  Ueutenant,  Don  Pedrai-ias  Davila,  on  this  man,  as  a  traitor 
and  an  usurper  of  the  territories  of  the  crown." 

When  Vasco  Nunez  heard  these  words,  he  exclaimed  indig- 
nantly, "It  is  false!  never  did  such  a  crime  enter  my  mind.  I 
have  ever  ^ei-ved  my  king  with  truth  and  loyalty,  and  sought 
to  augment  his  dominions." 

These  words  were  of  no  avail  in  his  extremity,  but  they  were 
fully  believed  by  the  populace. 

The  execution  took  place  in  the  public  square  of  Ada ;  and 
we  are  assured  by  the  historian,  Oviodo,  who  was  in  the  colony 
at  the  time,  that  the  cruel  Pedrarias  was  a  secret  witness  of 
the  bloody  spectacle,  which  he  contemplated  from  between  tho 


178  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT.    \ 

reeds  of  the  wall  of  a  house,  about  twelve  paces  from  the  scaf- 
fold!* 

Vasco  Nufiez  was  the  first  to  suffer  death.  Having  confessed 
himself  and  partaken  of  the  sacrament,  he  ascended  the  scaffold 
with  a  firm  step  and  a  calm  and  manly  demeanour ;  and  lay- 
ing his  head  upon  the  block,  it  was  severed  in  an  instant  from 
his  body.  Three  of  his  officers,  Valderrabano,  Botello,  and 
Hernan  Mufios,  were  in  like  manner  brought  one  by  one  to  the 
block,  and  the  day  had  nearly  expired  before  the  last  of  them 
was  executed. 

One  victim  still  remained.  It  was  Heman  de  Arguello,  who 
had  been  condemned  as  an  accomphce,  for  having  written  the 
intercepted  letter. 

The  populace  could  no  longer  restrain  their  feelings.  They 
had  not  dared  to  intercede  for  Vasco  Nuiiez,  knowing  the  im- 
placable enmity  of  Pedrarias ;  but  they  now  sought  the  gover- 
nor, and  throwing  themselves  at  his  feet,  entreated  that  this 
man  might  be  spared,  as  he  had  taken  no  active  part  in  the 
alleged  treason.  The  dayhght,  they  said,  was  at  an  end,  audit 
seemed  as  if  God  had  hastened  the  night,  to  prevent  the  execu- 
tion. 

The  stem  heart  of  Pedrarias  was  not  to  be  touched.  "  No," 
said  he,  "I  would  sooner  die  myself  than  spare  one  of  them." 
The  unfortunate  Arguello  was  led  to  the  block.  The  brief 
tropical  twilight  was  past,  and  in  the  gathering  gloom  of  the 
night  the  operations  on  the  scaffold  could  not  be  distinguished. 
The  multitude  stood  listening  in  breathless  silence,  until  the 
stroke  of  the  executioner  told  that  all  was  accomphshed.  They 
then  dispersed  to  their  homes  with  hearts  filled  with  grief  and 
bitterness,  and  a  night  of  lamentation  succeeded  to  tliis  day  of 
horrors. 

The  vengeance  of  Pedrarias  was  not  satisfisd  with  the  death 
of  his  victim ;  he  confiscated  his  property  and  dishonoured  his 
remains,  causing  his  head  to  be  placed  upon  a  pole  and  exposed 
for  several  days  in  the  public  square.! 

Thus  perished,  in  his  forty-second  year,  in  the  •prime  and 
vigoiu'  of  his  days  and  the  full  career  of  his  glory,  one  of  the 
most  illustrious  and  deserving  of  the  Spanish  discoverers— a 
victim  to  the  basest  and  most  perfidious  envy. 

How  vain  are  our  most  confident  hopes,  our  brightest  tri- 
umphs!   When  Vasco  Nunez  from  the  mountains  of  Darien 

*  Oviedo,  Hist.  Ind.  p.  2,  c.  9,  MS.  t  Oviedo,  ubi  sup. 


VASCO  NUNEZ  BE  BALBOA.  179 

beheld  the  Southern  Ocean  revealed  to  his  gaze,  he  considered 
its  unknown  realms  at  his  dL'^posal.  When  he  had  launched 
his  ships  upon  its  waters,  and  his  sails  were  in  a  manner  flai>- 
ping  in  the  wind,  to  bear  hini  in  quest  of  the  wealthy  empire  of 
Peru,  he  scotfed  at  the  prediction  of  the  astrologer,  and  defied 
the  influence  of  the  stars.  Behold  him  interrupted  at  the  very- 
moment  of  his  departure;  betrayed  into  the  hands  of  his  most 
invidious  Soe ;  the  very  enterprise  that  was  to  have  crowned 
him  with  glory  wrested  into  a  crime;  and  himself  hurried  to  a 
bloody  and  ignominious  grave,  at  the  foot,  as  jfb  were,  of  the 
mountain  from  whence  he  had  made  his  discovery !  His  fate, 
like  that  of  his  renowned  predecessor,  Columbus,  proves  that 
it  is  sometimes  dangerous  even  to  discern  too  greatly  I 


180  SPAmi^H  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 


THE  FORTUNES  OF  VALDIVIA  AND  HIS  COM- 
PANIONS. 


It  was  in  the  year  1513  that  Valdivia,  the  regidor  of  Darien, 
was  sent  to  Hispaniola  by  Vasco  Nuaez  de  Balboa  for  rein- 
forcements and  supplies  for  the  colony.  He  set  sail  in  a  cara- 
vel, and  pursued  his  voyage  prosperously  until  he  arrived  in 
sight  of  the  Island  of  Jamaica.  Here  he  was  encountered  by 
one  of  the  violent  hurricanes  which  sweep  those  latitudes,  and 
driven  on  the  shoals  and  sunken  rocks  called  the  Vipers,  since 
infamous  for  many  a  shipwreck.  His  vessel  soon  went  to 
pieces,  and  Valdivia  and  his  crew,  consisting  of  twenty  men, 
escaped  with  difficulty  in  the  boat,  without  having  time  to 
secure  a  supply  either  of  water  or  provisions.  Having  no  sails, 
and  their  oars  being  scarcely  fit  for  iise,  they  were  driven 
about  for  thirteen  days,  at  the  mercy  of  the  currents  of  those 
unknown  seas.  During  this  time  their  sufferings  from  hunger 
and  thirst  were  indescribable.  Seven  of  their  number  perished, 
and  the  rest  were  nearly  famished,  when  they  were  stranded 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  Yucatan,  in  a  province  called  Maya. 
Here  they  were  set  upon  by  the  natives,  who  broke  their  boat 
in  pieces,  and  carried  them,  off  captive  to  the  cacique  of  the 
province,  by  whose  orders  they  were  mewed  up  in  a  kind  of 
pen. 

At  first  their  situation  appeared  tolerable  enough  considering 
the  horrors  from  which  they  had  escaped.  They  were  closely 
confined,  it  is  true,  but  they  had  plenty  to  eat  and  drink,  and 
soon  began  to  recover  flesh  and  vigour.  In  a  little  while,  how- 
ever, their  enjo^inent  of  this  good  cheer  met  with  a  sudden 
check,  for  the  unfortunate  Valdivia,  and  four  of  his  companions, 
were  smgled  out  by  the  cacique,  on  account  of  their  improved 
condition,  to  be  offered  up  to  his  idols.  The  natives  of  this 
coast  in  fact  were  cannibals,  devouring  the  flesh  of  their  enemies 
and  of  such  strangers  as  fell  into  their  hands.  The  wretched 
Valdivia  and  his  feUow  victims,  therefore,  were  sacrificed  in 


THE  FORTUyES   OF  VALDIVTA.  Jj^i 

the  bloody  temple  of  the  idol,  and  their  limbs  afterwards  served 
up  nt  a  gi-aiid  feast  held  by  the  cacique  and  his  subjects. 

The  horroi'  of  the  sur\'lvors  may  be  more  readily  imagined 
than  described.  Tlieir  hearts  died  within  them  when  tliey 
heard  the  yeUs  and  bowlings  of  the  savages  over  then-  viclimS; 
and  the  still  more  horrible  revelry  of  their  cannibal  orgies. 
They  turned  with  loathing  from  the  food  set  so  abundantly  be- 
fore them,  at  the  idea  that  it  was  but  intended  to  fatten  them 
for  a  future  banquet. 

Recovering  from  the  first  stupor  of  alarm,  their  despair  lent 
them  additional  force.  They  succeeded  in  breaking,  m  the 
night,  from  the  kind  of  cage  in  which  they  were  confined,  and 
lied  to  the  depths  of  the  forest.  Here  they  wandered  about 
forlorn,  exposed  to  all  the  dangers  and  miseries  of  the  wilder- 
ness; famishing  with  hunger,  yet  dreading  to  approach  the 
haunts  of  men.  At  length  their  sufferings  drove  them  forth 
from  the  woods  into  another  part  of  the  country,  where  they 
were  again  taken  captive.  The  cacique  of  this  province,  how- 
ever, was  an  enemy  to  the  one  from  whom  they  had  escaped, 
and  of  less  cruel  propensities.  He  spared  their  lives,  and  con- 
tented himself  with  malcing  them  slaves,  exacting  from  them 
the  severest  labour.  They  had  to  cut  and  draAv  wood,  to  pro- 
cure water  from  a  distance,  and  to  carry  enormous  burthens. 
The  cacique  died  soon  after  their  capture,  and  was  succeeded 
by  another  called  Taxniar.  He  was  a  chief  of  some  talent  and 
sagacity,  but  he  continued  the  same  rigorous  treatment  of  the 
captives.  By  degrees  they  sank  beneath  the  hardships  of  their 
lot,  until  only  two  were  left;  one  of  them,  a  sturdy  sailor 
named  Gonzalo  Guerrero,  the  other  a  kind  of  clerical  adven- 
turer, named  Jcronimo  de  Aguilar.  The  sailor  had  the  good 
luck  to  be  transferred  to  the  service  of  the  cacique  of  the  neigh- 
bouring pi'ovince  of  Chatemal,  by  whom  he  was  treated  with 
kindness.  Being  a  thorough  son  of  the  ocean,  seasoned  to  all 
weathers,  and  ready  for  any  chance  or  change,  he  soon  accom- 
modated himself  to  his  new  situation,  followed  the  cacique  to 
the  war.-^,  rose  by  bis  hardibood  and  ])rowess  to  be  a  distin- 
guished warrior,  and  succeeded  in  gaining  the  heart  and  hand 
of  an  Indian  princess. 

The  other  survivor,  Jeronimo  de  Aguilar,  was  of  a  different 
complexion.  He  was  a  native  of  Ecija  in  Andalusia,  and  had 
been  brought  up  to  the  church  and  regularly  ordained,  and 
shortly  afterwards  had  sailed  in  one  of  the  expeditions  to  San 
Domingo,  from  whence  he  had  passed  to  Darieu. 


182  SPAJyiSII   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

He  proceeded  in  a  different  mode  from  that  adopted  by  his 
comrade  the  sailor  in  his  dealings  with  the  Indians,  and  in  one 
more  suited  to  his  opposite  calling.  Instead  of  playing  the  hero 
among  the  men  and  the  gallant  among  the  women,  he  recol- 
lected his  priestly  obligations  to  Immility  and  chastity.  Ac- 
cordingly, he  made  himself  a  model  of  meekness  and  obedi- 
ence to  the  cacique  and  his  warriors,  while  he  closed  his  eyes 
to  the  charms  of  the  infidel  women.  Nay,  in  the  latter  re- 
spect, he  reinforced  his  clerical  vows  by  a  solemn  promise  to 
God  to  resist  all  temptations  of  the  flesh  so  he  might  be  deliv- 
ered out  of  the  hands  of  these  Gentries. 

Such  were  the  opposite  measvires  of  the  sailor  and  the  saint, 
and  they  appear  to  have  been  equally  successful.  Aguilar,  by 
his  meek  obedience  to  every  order,  however  arbitraiy  and 
capricious,  gradually  won  the  good-wiU  of  the  cacique  and  his 
familj'^.  Taxmar,  however,  subjected  him  to  many  trials  be- 
fore he  admitted  him  to  his  entire  confidence.  One  day  when 
the  Indians,  painted  and  decorated  in  warUke  style,  Avere 
shooting  at  a  mark,  a  warrior,  who  had  for  some  time  fijced 
his  eyes  on  Aguilar,  approached  suddenly  and  seized  him  by 
the  ann.  "  Thou  seest,"  said  he,  "  the  certainty  of  these  arch- 
ers ;  if  they  aim  at  the  eye,  they  hit  the  eye — if  at  the  mouth, 
they  hit  the  mouth — what  wouldst  thou  think  if  thou  wert  to 
be  placed  instead  of  the  mark  and  they  were  to  shoot  at  and 
miss  thee?" 

Aguilar  secretly  trembled  lest  he  should  be  the  victim  of 
some  cruel  caprice  of  the  kind.  Dissembling  his  fears,  how- 
ever, he  replied  with  gi-eat  submission,  "  I  am  yoiu*  slave  and 
you  may  do  with  me  as  you  please,  but  you  are  too  wise  to 
destroy  a  slave  who  is  so  useful  and  obedient."  His  answer 
pleased  the  cacique,  who  had  seci'etly  sent  this  warrior  to  try 
his  humility. 

Another  trial  of  the  worthy  Joronimo  was  less  stern  and 
fearful  indeed,  but  equally  pei'plcxing.  The  cacique  had  re- 
marked liis  unexampled  discretion  with  respect  to  the  sex,  but 
doubted  his  sincerity.  After  laying  many  petty  temptations 
in  his  way,  which  Jeronimo  resisted  with  the  self-denial  of  a 
saint,  he  at  length  determined  to  subject  Mm  to  a  fiery  ordoal. 
He  accordingly  sent  him  on  a  fishing  expedition  accompanied 
by  a  buxom  damsel  of  fourteen  yeai-s  of  age ;  they  were  to  pass 
the  night  by  the  sea-side,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  fish  at  the  first 
dawn  of  day,  and  were  allcAvcd  but  one  hammock  to  sleep  in. 
It  Avas  an  embarrassing  predicament-  not  apparently  to  the 


77//-;   FORTUNKS   OF    VAI.DIVIA.  J88 

Indian  beauty,  but  certainly  to  the  scrupulous  Jeronimo.  He 
remembered,  however,  his  double  vow,  and,  suspending  his 
hauimock  to  two  tree^,  resigned  it  to  his  companion;  while, 
lighting  a  lire  on  the  sea-shore,  he  stretched  himself  before  it 
on  the  sand.  It  was,  as  ho  acknowledged,  a  night  of  fearful 
trial,  for  his  sandy  couch  was  cold  and  cheerless,  the  hammock 
warm  and  tempting;  and  the  infidel  damsel  had  been  in- 
structed to  assail  him  with  all  manner  of  blandishments  and 
reproaches.  His  resolution,  however,  though  often  shaken, 
was  never  overcome ;  and  the  morning  dawned  upon  him  stiU 
faithful  to  his  vow. 

The  fishing  over,  he  returned  to  the  residence  of  the  cacique, 
•where  his  companion,  being  closely  questioned,  made  known 
the  triumph  of  his  self-deniixl  before  all  the  people.  From  that 
time  forAvard  he  was  held  in  great  respect ;  the  cacique  espe- 
cially treated  him  with  imlimited  confidence,  entrusting  to  him 
the  care  not  merely  of  his  house,  but  of  his  wives  during  liis 
occasional  absence. 

Aguilar  now  felt  ambitious  of  rising  to  greater  consequence 
among  the  savages,  but  this  he  knew  was  only  to  be  done  by 
deeds  of  arms.  He  had  the  example  of  the  sturdy  seaman, 
Gonzalo  Guerrero,  before  his  eyes,  who  had  become  a  gi-eat 
captain  in  the  province  in  which  he  resided.  He  entreated 
Taxmar,  therefore,  to  entrust  him  with  bow  and  arrows,  buck- 
ler and  war-club,  and  to  enroll  him  among  his  warriors.  The 
cacique  complied.  Aguilar  soon  made  himself  expert  at  his 
new  weapons,  signalized  himself  repeatedly  in  battle,  and, 
from  his  superior  knowledge  of  the  arts  of  war,  rendered  Tax- 
mar  such  essential  service,  as  to  excite  the  jealousy  of  some  of 
the  neighbouring  caciques.  One  of  them  remonstrated  with 
Taxmar  for  employing  a  warrior  who  was  of  a  different  religion, 
and  insisted  that  Aguilar  should  be  sacrificed  to  their  gods. 
"No,"  replied  Taxmar,  "I  will  not  make  so  base  a  return 
for  such  signal  services;  surely  the  gods  of  Aguilar  must  be 
good,  since  they  aid  him  so  effectually  in  maintaining  a  just 
cause." 

The  cacique  Avas  so  incensed  at  this  reply  that  he  assembled 
his  warriors  and  marched  to  make  war  upon  Taxmar.  Many 
of  the  counsellors  of  the  latter  urged  him  to  give  up  the 
stranger  who  was  the  cause  of  this  hostility.  Taxmar,  how- 
ever, rejected  their  coimsel  with  disdain  and  prepared  for  bat- 
tle. Aguilar  assured  him  that  his  faith  in  the  Christian's  God 
would  be  rewarded  with  victory ;  he,  in  fact,  concerted  a  pUuq 


184  SPANJSII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

of  battle  which  was  adopted.  Concealing  himself  with  a 
chosen  band  of  warriors  among  thickets  and  herbage,  he  suf- 
fered the  enemy  to  pass  by  in  making  their  attack.  Taxmar 
and  his  host  pretended  to  give  way  at  the  first  onset.  The  foe 
rushed  heedlessly  in  pursuit ;  whereupon  Aguilar  and  his  am- 
buscade assaidted  them  in  the  rear.  Taxmar  tm^ned  upon 
them  in  front;  they  were  thrown  in  confusion,  routed  with 
great  slaughter,  and  many  of  their  chiefs  taken  prisoners. 
This  victory  gave  Taxmar  the  sway  over  the  land,  and 
strengthened  Aguilar  more  than  ever  in  his  good  graces. 

Several  years  had  elapsed  in  this  manner,  when,  in  1517, 
intelligence  was  brought  to  the  province  of  the  arrival  on  the 
neighbouring  coast  of  gi-eat  vessels  of  wonderfid  construction, 
filled  with  white  and  bearded  men,  who  fought  with  thunder 
and  lightning.  It  was,  in  fact,  the  squadron  of  Francisco 
Hernandez  de  Cordova,  then  on  a  voyage  of  discovery.  The 
tidings  of  this  strange  invasion  spread  consternation  through 
the  country,  heightened,  if  we  may  credit  the  old  Spanish 
writers,  by  a  prophecy  current  among  the  savages  of  these 
parts,  and  uttered  in  former  times  by  a  priest  named  Chilam 
Cambal,  who  foretold  that  a  white  and  bearded  people  would 
come  from  the  region  of  the  rising  sun,  Avho  would  overturn 
their  idols  and  subjugate  the  land. 

The  heart  of  Jeronimo  de  Aguilar  beat  quick  with  hope  when 
he  heard  of  European  ships  at  hand ;  he  was  distant  from  the 
coast,  however,  and  perceived  that  he  was  too  closely  watched 
by  the  Indians  to  have  any  chance  of  escape.  Dissembling  his 
feelings,  therefore,  he  affected  to  hear  of  the  ships  with  per- 
fect indifference,  and  to  have  no  desire  to  join  "^-he  strangers. 
The  ships  disappeared  from  the  coast,  and  he  remained  dis- 
consolate at  heart,  but  was  regarded  with  increased  confidence 
by  the  natives. 

His  hopes  were  again  revived  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two 
by  the  arrival  on  the  coast  of  other  ships,  which  were  those 
commanded  by  Juan  de  Grijalva,  who  coasted  Yucatan  in 
1518;  Aguilar,  however,  was  again  prevented  by  the  jealous 
watchfulness  of  the  Indians  from  attempting  his  escape,  and 
when  this  squadron  left  the  coast  he  considered  aU  chance  of 
dehverance  at  an  end. 

Seven  years  had  gone  by  since  his  capture,  and  he  had  given 
up  all  hopes  of  being  restored  to  his  country  and  friends,  Avhen, 
in  1519,  there  arrived  one  day  at  the  village  three  Indians, 
Tiatives  of  the  small   island  of  Cozimiel,   which  lies  a  few 


THE  FORTUNES  OF   VALDIVIA.  185 

leagues  in  the  sea,  opposite  the  eastern  coast  of  Yucatan. 
They  brou;^ht  tidinj^  of  another  \asit  of  white  bearded  men 
to  their  shores,  and  one  of  them  dehvered  a  letter  to  Agiiilar, 
which,  being  entirely  naked,  he  had  concealed  it  in  the  long 
tresses  of  his  hair  which  were  bound  round  his  head. 

Aguilar  received  the  letter  with  wonder  and  delight,  and 
read  it  in  presence  of  the  cacique  and  his  warriors.  It  proved 
to  be  from  Hernando  Cortez,  who  was  at  that  time  on  his 
great  expedition,  which  ended  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico.  He 
had  been  obliged  by  stress  of  weather  to  anchor  at  the  island 
of  Cozumel,  where  he  learned  from  the  natives  that  several 
white  men  were  detained  in  captivity  among  the  Indians  on 
the  nei;i;hbouring  coast  of  Yucatan.  Finding  it  impossible  to 
approach  the  mainland  with  his  ships,  he  prevailed  upon  three 
of  the  islanders,  by  means  of  gifts  and  promises,  to  venture 
upon  an  embassy  among  their  cannibal  neighbours,  and  to 
convey  a  letter  to  the  captive  wliitc  men.  Two  of  the  smallest 
caravels  of  the  e'J■^adron  were  sent  under  the  command  of 
Diego  do  Orda:;,  '  vho  was  ordered  to  land  the  three  messengers 
at  the  point  of  Cotoche,  and  to  wait  there  eight  days  for  their 
return. 

The  letter  brought  by  these  envoys  informed  the  Christian 
captives  of  the  force  and  destination  of  the  squadi'on  of  Cortez, 
and  of  liis  having  sent  the  caravels  to  wait  for  them  at  the 
point  of  Cotoche,  with  a  ransom  for  their  deliverance,  inviting 
them  to  hasten  and  join  him  at  Cozumel. 

The  transport  of  Aguilar  on  first  reading  the  letter  was  mod- 
erated when  he  reflected  on  the  obstacles  that  might  prevent 
him  from  profiting  by  this  chance  of  deliverance.  He  had 
made  himself  too  useful  to  the  cacique  to  hope  that  he  would 
readily  give  him  his  liberty,  and  he  knew  the  jealous  and  irri- 
table natiu'c  of  the  savages  too  well  not  to  fear  that  even  an 
application  for  leave  to  depart  might  draw  iipon  him  the 
severest  treatment.  He  endeavoured,  therefore,  to  operate 
upon  the  caeiquo  through  his  apprehensions.  To  this  end  he 
inf(irmod  him  that  the  piece  of  paper  which  he  held  in  his 
hand  brought  him  a  full  account  of  the  mighty  armament  that 
had  arrived  on  the  coast.  He  described  the  number  of  the 
ships  and  various  particulars  concerning  the  squadron,  all 
which  were  amply  corroborated  by  the  testimony  of  the  mes- 
sengers. The  cacique  and  his  warriors  were  astonished  at  this 
strange  mode  of  conveying  intelligence  from  a  distance,  and 
regarded  the  letter  as  something  mysterious  and  supernatural. 


186  .SPANISH    VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERT. 

Aguilar  went  on  to  relate  the  tremendous  and  superhuman 
powers  of  the  people  in  these  ships,  who,  armed  with  thunder 
and  lightning,  wreaked  destruction  on  all  who  displeased 
them,  while  they  dispensed  inestimable  gifts  and  benefits  on 
such  as  proved  themselves  their  friends.  He  at  the  same  time 
spread  before  the  cacique  various  presents  brought  by  the 
messengers,  as  specimens  of  the  blessings  to  be  expected  from 
the  friendship  of  the  strangers.  The  intimation  was  effectual. 
The  cacique  was  filled  with  awe  at  the  recital  of  the  terrific 
powers  of  the  white  men,  and  his  eyes  were  dazzled  by  the 
glittering  trinkets  displayed  before  hun.  He  entreated  Aguilar, 
therefore,  to  act  as  Ms  ambassador  and  mediator,  and  to 
secure  him  the  amity  of  the  strangers. 

Aguilar  saw  with  transport  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  deliver- 
ance. In  this  moment  of  exultation,  he  bethought  hinaself  of 
the  only  surviving  comrade  of  his  past  fortunes,  Gonzalo 
Guerrero,  and,  sending  the  letter  of  Cortez  to  him,  invited 
him  to  accompany  him  in  his  escape.  The  sturdy  seaman 
was  at  this  time  a  great  chieftain  in  Ms  province,  and  Ms 
Indian  bride  had  borne  him  a  nimierous  progeny.  His  heart, 
however,  yearned  after  his  native  country,  and  he  might  have 
been  tempted  to  leave  Ms  honours  and  dignities,  his  infidel 
wife  and  lialf -savage  offspring  behind  him,  but  an  insuperable, 
though  somewhat  ludicrous,  obstacle  presented  itself  to  Ms 
wishes.  Having  long  since  given  over  aU  expectation  of  a 
return  to  civilized  life,  he  had  conformed  to  the  customs  of 
the  country,  and  had  adopted  the  external  signs  and  decora- 
tions that  marked  Mm  as  a  warrior  and  a  man  of  rank.  His 
face  and  hands  were  indelibly  painted  or  tattooed ;  Ms  ears 
and  lips  were  slit  to  .admit  h«ge  Indian  ornaments,  and  Ms 
nose  was  drawn  down  almost  to  his  mouth  by  a  massy  rmg  of 
gold,  and  a  dangling  jewel. 

Thus  curiously  garbled  and  disfigured,  the  honest  seaman 
felt,  that  however  he  might  be  admired  in  Yucatan,  he  should 
be  apt  to  have  the  rabble  at  his  heels  in  Spain.  He  made  up 
Ms  mind,  therefore,  to  remain  a  great  man  among  the  sav- 
ages, rather  than  run  the  risk  of  being  shown  as  a  man- 
monster  at  home. 

Finding  that  he  declined  accompanying  him,  Jeronuno  de 
Aguilar  set  off  for  the  point  of  Cotoche,  escorted  by  three 
Indians.  The  time  he  had  lost  in  waiting  for  Guerrero  had 
nearly  proved  fatal  to  Ms  hopes,  for  when  he  arrived  at  the 
point  the  caravels  sent  by  Cortez  had  departed,  though  sev- 


THE  FORTUNES   OF   VAUUV/A.  1S7 

eral  crosses  of  reeds  set  up  in  different  places  gave  tokens  of 
the  recent  presence  of  Christians. 

The  only  hope  that  remained,  was  that  the  squadron  of 
Coi'tez  niij^ht  yet  Hn.^er  at  the  opposite  island  of  Coziunel;  hut 
how  was  he  to  get  there  ^  While  wandering  disconsolately  along 
the  shore,  he  found  a  canoe,  half  buried  in  sand  and  water, 
and  with  one  side  in  a  state  of  decay ;  with  the  assistance  of 
the  Indians  he  cleaned  it,  and  set  it  afloat,  and  on  looking 
further  he  found  the  stave  of  a  hogshead  which  might  serve 
for  a  paddle.  It  was  a  frail  embarkation  in  which  to  cross  an 
arm  of  the  sea,  seveiv  leagues  wide,  but  there  was  no  alter- 
native. Prevailing  on  the  Indians  to  acconi])any  him,  he 
launched  foilh  in  the  canoe  and  coasted  the  main  land  until 
he  came  to  the  iiarrowest  part  of  the  strait,  wiiere  it  Avas  but 
four  leagnies  across;  here  he  stood  directly  for  Cozumel,  con- 
tending, as  well  as  he  was  able,  with  a  strong  current,  and  at 
length  succeeded  in  reaching  the  island. 

He  had  scarce  landed  Avhen  a  party  of  Spaniards,  who  had 
been  lying  in  wait,  inished  forth  from  their  conceahncnt.  sword 
in  hand.  The  three  Indians  woidd  have  fled,  but  Aguilar  re- 
assured them,  and,  calling  out  to  the  Spaniards  in  their  own 
language,  assured  them  that  he  was  a  Christian.  Then  throw- 
ing himself  ujion  his  knees,  and  raising  his  eyes,  streaming 
with  tears,  to  heaven,  he  gave  thanks  to  God  for  havmg  re- 
stored him  to  his  countrymen. 

The  Spaniards  gazed  at  him  with  astonishment:  from  his 
language  he  was  evidently  a  Castilian,  but  to  all  appearance 
he  was  an  Indian.  He  was  perfectly  naked;  wore  his  hair 
braided  round  his  head  in  the  manner  of  the  country,  and  his 
complexion  was  burnt  by  the  sim  to  a  tawny  colour.  He  had 
a  bow  m  his  hand,  a  quiver  at  his  shoulder,  and  a  net-work 
pouch  at  his  side  in  which  he  carried  his  provisions. 

The  Spaniards  proved  to  be  a  reconnoiterin.::?:  party,  sent  out 
by  Cortez  to  Avatch  the  approach  of  the  canoe,  which  had  been 
descried  coming  from  Yucatan.  Cortez  had  given  xip  all  hopes 
of  being  joined  by  the  captives,  the  caravel  having  waited  the 
allotted  time  at  Cotoche,  and  returned  without  news  of  them. 
He  had,  in  fact,  made  sail  to  pro'^ocuto  his  voyage,  but  fortu- 
nately one  of  his  ships  had  sprung  a  leak,  which  had  obliged 
him  to  return  to  the  island. 

When  Jei'ouimo  de  Aguilar  and  his  companions  arrived  in 
presence  of  Cortez,  who  was  surrounded  by  his  officers,  they 
made  a  profouTid  rov(^r(^nce,  squatted  on  the  gn^md.  laid  their 


188  SPANISH   VOYAGES   OF  DISCO  FEE  T. 

bows  and  arrows  beside  tbem,  and  touching  their  right  hands, 
wet  with  spittle,  on  the  ground,  rubbed  them  about  the  region 
of  the  heart,  such  being  their  sign  of  the  most  devoted  sub- 
mission. 

Cortez  greeted  Aguilar  with  a  hearty  welcome,  and  raising 
him  from  the  earth,  took  from  his  own  person  a  large  yellow 
mantle  lined  with  crimson,  and  threw  it  over  his  shoulders. 
The  latter,  however,  had  for  so  long  a  time  gone  entirely 
naked,  that  even  this  scanty  covering  was  at  first  almost  in- 
supportable, and  he  had  become  so  accustomed  to  the  diet  of 
the  natives,  that  he  found  it  difficult  to  reconcile  his  stomach 
to  the  meat  and  drink  set  before  him. 

When  he  had  sufficiently  recovered  from  the  agitation  of  his 
arrival  among  Christians,  Cortez  drew  from  him  the  particu- 
lars of  his  story,  and  found  that  he  was  related  to  one  of  his 
own  friends,  the  licentiate  Marcos  de  AguUar.  He  treated 
him,  therefore,  with  additional  kindness  and  respect,  and  re- 
tained him  about  his  pei'son  to  aid  him  as  an  interpreter  in  his 
great  Mexican  expedition. 

The  happiness  of  Jeronimo  de  Aguilar  at  once  more  being 
restored  to  his  countrymen,  Avas  doomed  to  suffer  some  alloy 
from  the  disasters  that  had  happened  in  his  family.  Peter 
Martyr  records  a  touching  anecdote  of  the  elfect  that  had  been 
produced  upon  his  mother  by  the  tidings  of  his  misfortune.  A 
vague  report  had  reached  her  in  Spain  that  her  son  had  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  cannibals.  All  the  horrible  tales  that  circu- 
lated in  Spain  concerning  the  treatment  of  these  savages  to 
their  prisoners,  rushed  to  her  imagination,  and  she  went  dis- 
tracted. Whenever  she  beheld  roasted  meat,  or  flesh  upon  the 
spit,  she  would  fill  the  house  with  her  outcries.  ' '  Oh,  wretched 
mother!  oh,  most  miserable  of  women!"  would  she  exclaim, 
"  behold  the  limbs  of  my  murdered  son."  * 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  tidings  of  his  deliverance  had  a 
favourable  effect  upon  her  intellect,  and  that  she  lived  to  re- 
joice at  his  after-fortunes.  He  served  Hernando  Cortez  with 
great  courage  and  ability  throughout  his  Mexican  conquests, 
acting  sometimes  as  a  soldier,  sometimes  as  interpreter  and 
ambassador  to  the  Indians,  and,  in  reward  of  his  fidelity  and 
services,  was  appointed  regidor,  or  civil  governor  of  the  city 
of  Mexico. 

*  p.  Martyr,  decad.  4,  c.  6. 


MICER   CODJiO,    THE  AUTROLOGEli.  1S9 


MICER  CODRO,  THE  ASTROLOGER. 


The  fate  of  the  Italian  astrologer,  Micer  Codro,  who  pre- 
dicted the  end  of  Vasco  Nuiiez,  is  related  by  the  historian 
Oviedo,  with  some  particulars  that  border  upon  the  marvel- 
ous. It  appears  that  after  the  death  of  his  patron,  he  con- 
tinued for  several  years  rambhng  about  the  New  World  in  the 
train  of  the  Spanish  discoverers ;  but  intent  upon  stvidying  the 
secrets  of  its  natural  history,  rather  than  searching  after  its 
treasures. 

In  the  course  of  his  wanderings  he  was  once  coasting  the 
shores  of  the  Southern  ocean  in  a  ship  commanded  by  one 
Geronimo  de  Valcnzuela,  from  whom  he  received  such  cruel 
treatment  as  to  cause  his  death,  though  what  the  nature  of  the 
treatment  was,  we  are  not  precisely  informed. 

Finding  his  end  approaching,  the  unfortunate  astrologer  ad- 
dressed Valenzucla  in  the  most  solemn  manner:  "Captain," 
said  he,  "you  have  caused  my  death  by  your  cruelty;  I  now 
summon  you  to  appear  with  me,  within  a  year,  before  the 
judgment  seat  of  God !" 

The  captain  made  a  light  and  scoffing  answer,  and  treated 
his  summons  vnXh  contempt. 

Tliey  were  then  off  the  coast  of  Veragua,  near  the  verdant 
islands  of  Zebaco,  which  lie  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf  of 
Paria.  The  poor  astrologer  gazed  wistfully  with  his  dying 
eyes  upon  the  green  and  shady  groves,  and  onti-eated  the  pilot 
or  mate  of  the  caravel  to  land  him  on  one  of  the  islands,  that 
he  might  die  in  peace.  "Micer  Codro," replied  tlie  pilot,  "those 
are  not  islands,  but  points  of  land ;  there  are  no  islands  here- 
about." 

"There  are,  indeed,"  replied  the  astrologer,  "two  good  and 
pleasant  islands,  well  watered,  and  near  to  the  coast,  and 
within  them  is  a  great  bay  with  a  harbor.  Land  me.  I  pray 
you,  upon  one  of  these  islands,  that  I  may  have  comfort  in  my 
dying  hour." 


190  iyPAj\LSI/    VOYAGERS   OF  VISCOVEUY. 

The  pilot,  whose  rough  nature  had  been  touched  with  pity 
for  the  condition  of  the  unfo7-tunate  astrologer,  listened  to  his 
prayer,  and  conveyed  him  to  the  shore,  where  he  found  the 
opinion  he  had  given  of  the  character  of  the  coast  to  be  cor- 
rect. He  laid  him  on  the  herbage  in  the  shade,  where  the  poor 
wanderer  soon  expired.  The  pilot  then  dug  a  grave  at  the  foot 
of  a  tree,  where  he  buried  him  with  all  possible  decency,  and 
carved  a  cross  on  the  bark  to  mark  the  grave. 

Some  time  afterwards,  Oviedo.  the  historian,  was  on  the 
island  with  this  very  pilot,  who  showed  him  the  cross  on  the 
tree,  and  gave  his  honest  testimony  to  the  good  character  and 
worthy  conduct  of  Micer  Codro.  Oviedo,  as  he  regarded  the 
nameless  grave,  passed  the  eulogium  of  a  scholar  upon  the 
poor  astrologer :  "  He  died,"  says  he,  "like  Pliny,  in  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties,  travelling  about  the  world  to  explore  the 
secrets  of  nature. "  According  to  his  account,  the  prediction 
of  Micer  Codro  held  good  with  respect  to  Valenzuela,  as  it  had 
in  the  case  of  Vasco  Nunez.  The  captain  died  within  the  term 
in  which  he  liad  summoned  him  to  appear  before  the  tribunal 
of  God.* 

*  Vide  Oviedo,  Hist.  Gen.  1.  xxxuc.  c.  2 


JUAN  PONCK  DK  LEON.  V.)\ 


JUAN  PONCE  DE  LEON 

CONQUEROR  OF  PORTO  RICO  AND  DISCOVERER  OF  FLORIDA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


RECONNOITERING  EXPEDITION  OF    JUAN  PONCE  DE  LEON    TO  THE 
ISLAND  OF  BORIQUEN.  — (1508.) 

Many  years  had  elapsed  since  the  discovery  and  coloniza- 
tion of  Hayti,  yet  its  nei.a:hbouring  island  of  Boriquen.  or,  as 
the  Spaniards  called  it,  St.  Juan,  (siiice  named  Porto  Rico,)  re- 
mained unexplored.  It  was  beautiful  to  the  eye  as  beheld 
from  the  sea,  ha^ang  lofty  mountains  clothed  with  forest  trees 
of  prodigious  size  and  magnificent  foliage.  There  were  broad 
fertile  valleys  also,  always  fresh  and  green ;  for  the  frequent 
showers  and  abundant  streams  in  these  latitudes,  and  the  ab- 
sence«of  all  wintry  frost,  produce  a  perpetual  verdure.  Vai-ious 
ships  had  occasionally  touched  at  the  island,  but  their  crews 
had  never  penetrated  into  the  interior.  It  was  evident,  how- 
ever, from  the  number  of  handets  and  scattered  houses,  and 
the  smoke  rising  in  all  directions  from  among  the  trees,  that  it 
was  well  peopled.  The  inliabitants  still  continued  to  enjoy 
their  life  of  indolence  and  freedom,  unmolested  by  the  ills  that 
overwhelmed  the  neighbouring  island  of  Hayti.  The  time  had 
arrived,  however,  when  they  were  to  share  the  common  lot  of 
their  fellow  savages,  and  to  sink  beneath  the  yoke  of  the  white 
man. 

At  the  time  when  Nicholas  de  Ovando,  Governor  of  Hispani- 
ola.  undertook  to  lay  waste  th(^  gi*eat  province  of  Higuoy, 
which  lay  at  the  eastern  end  of  Hayti,  he  sent,  as  commander 
of  part  of  the  troops,  a  veteran  soldier  named  Juan  Ponce  de 
Leon.  He  was  a  native  of  Leon,  in  Spain,  and  in  his  boyhood 
had  been  page  to  Pedro  Nunez  de  Guzman,  Senor  of  Toral.* 

♦Iticas,  (iart'iliiso  ilt"  la  Vc^a,  Hist.  Florida,  t.  iv.  c.  37. 


192  SPAyiSII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

From  an  early  age  he  had  been  schooled  to  war,  and  had  served 
in  the  various  campaigns  against  the  Moors  of  Granada.  He 
accompanied  Columbus  in  his  second  voyage  in  1493,  and  was 
afterwards,  it  is  said,  one  of  the  partisans  of  Francisco  Roldan, 
in  his  rebellion  against  the  admiral.  Having  distinguished  him- 
self in  various  battles  with  the  Indians,  and  acquired  a  name 
for  sagacity  as  well  as  valour,  he  received  a  connnand  subor- 
dinate to  Juan  de  Esquibel,  in  the  campaign  against  Higuey, 
and  seconded  his  chief  so  valiantly  in  that  sanguinary  expedi- 
tion, that  after  the  subjugation  of  the  province  he  was  ap- 
pointed to  the  command  of  it,  as  lieutenant  of  the  Governor  of 
Hispaniola. 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  had  all  the  impatience  of  quiet  life  and 
the  passion  for  exploit  of  a  veteran  campaigner.  He  had  not 
been  long  in  the  tranquil  command  of  his  province  of  Higuey, 
before  he  began  to  cast  a  ■wistful  eye  towards  the  green  moun- 
tains of  Boriquen.  They  were  directly  opposite,  and  but 
twelve  or  fourteen  leagues  distant,  so  as  to  be  distinctly  seen 
in  the  transparent  atmosphere  of  the  tropics.  The  Indians  of 
the  two  islands  frequently  visited  each  other,  and  in  this  way 
Juan  Ponce  received  the  usual  intelHgence  that  the  mountains 
ne  had  eyed  so  wistfully  abounded  with  gold.  He  readily  ob- 
tained permission  from  Governor  Ovando  to  make  an  expedi- 
tion to  this  island,  and  embarked  in  the  year  1508  in  a  caravel, 
with  a  few  Spaniards  and  several  Indian  interpreters  and 
guides. 

After  an  easy  voyage  he  landed  on  the  woody  shores  of  the 
island,  near  to  the  residence  of  the  principal  cacique,  Aguey- 
bana.  He  found  the  chieftain  seated  in  patriarchal  style  under 
the  shade  of  his  native  groves  and  surrounded  by  his  family, 
consisting  of  his  mother,  step-father,  brother,  and  sister,  who 
vied  with  each  other  in  paying  homage  to  the  strangers.  Juan 
Ponce,  in  fact,  was  received  into  the  bosom  of  the  family,  and 
the  cacique  exchanged  names  with  him,  which  is  the  Indian 
pledge  of  perpetual  amity.  Juan  Ponce  also  gave  Christian 
names  to  the  mother  and  step-father  of  the  cacique,  and  would 
fain  have  baptized  them,  but  they  declined  the  ceremony, 
though  they  always  took  a  pride  in  the  names  thus  given 
them. 

In  his  zeal  to  gratify  his  guests  the  cacique  took  them  to  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  island.  They  found  the  interior  to  correspond 
with  the  external  appearance.  It  was  wild  and  mountainous, 
but  magnificently  wooded,  with  deep  rich  valleys  fertilized  by 


JUAX  rONCE  DK  LKoy.  ]93 

limpid  streams.  Juan  Ponce  requested  the  cacique  to  reveal 
to  him  the  riches  oi"  the  island.  The  simple  Indian  showed  him 
his  most  productive  fields  of  Yuca,  the  groves  Lidon  with  the 
most  delicioiis  fruit,  the  sweetest  and  purest  fountains,  and  the 
coolest  runs  of  water. 

Ponce  de  Leon  heeded  hut  little  these  real  blessings,  and  de- 
manded whether  the  island  produced  no  gold.  Upon  this,  the 
cacique  conducted  him  to  two  rivers,  the  Manatuabon  and  the 
Zebuco,  where  the  very  pebbles  seemed  richly  veined  with  gold, 
and  large  grains  shone  among  the  sand  through  the  limpid 
water.  Some  of  the  largest  of  these  were  gathered  by  the  In- 
dians and  given  to  the  Spaniards.  The  quantity  thus  procured 
confirmed  the  hopes  of  Juan  Ponce ;  and  leaving  several  of  his 
companions  in  the  liouso  of  the  hospitable  cacique,  he  returned 
to  Hayti  to  report  the  success  of  his  expedition.  Ho  presented 
the  specunens  of  gold  to  the  Governor  Ovando,  who  assayed 
them  in  a  crucible.  The  ore  was  not  so  fine  as  that  of  Hispani- 
ola,  but  as  it  was  supposed  to  exist  in  gi-eatcr  quantities,  the 
Governor  deternained  on  the  subjugation  of  the  island,  and  con- 
fided the  enterpi'ise  to  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon. 


CHAPTER  II. 


JUAN    PONCE    ASPraES  TO    THE    GOVERNMENT   OF    PORTO    RICO. — 

(1509.) 

The  natives  of  Boriquen  were  more  warlike  than  those  of 
Hispaniola;  being  accustomed  to  the  use  of  arms  from  the  ne- 
cessity of  repelling  the  frequent  invasions  of  the  Caribs.  It 
■was  supposed,  therefore,  that  the  conquest  of  their  island 
would  be  attended  with  some  difficulty,  and  Juan  Ponce  de 
Leon  made  another,  as  it  were  a  preparatory  visit,  to  make 
himself  acquainted  with  the  country,  and  with  tlie  nature  and 
resources  of  the  inhabitants.  He  found  the  companions,  whom 
he  had  left  there  on  his  fowner  visit,  in  good  health  and  spirits, 
and  fiill  of  gi-atitude  towards  the  cacique  Agueybana,  who  had 
treated  tht>m  with  undiminislied  hospitality.  There  appeared 
to  be  no  need  of  violence  to  win  the  island  from  such  simple- 
hearted  and  confiding  people.  Juan  Ponce  flattered  himself 
with  the  hopes  of  being  appointed  to  its  government  by  Ovando, 


194  SPANISTf  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

and  of  bringing-  it  peaceably  into  subjection.  After  remaining 
some  time  on  the  island,  he  returned  to  San  Domingo  to  seek 
the  desii'ed  appointment,  but,  to  his  surprise,  found  the  whole 
face  of  affairs  had  changed  during  his  absence. 

His  patron,  the  Governor  Ovando,  had  been  recalled  to 
Spain,  and  Don  Diego  Columbus,  son  of  the  renowned  discov- 
erer, appointed  in  his  place  to  the  command  at  San  Domingo. 
To  add  to  the  perplexities  of  Juan  Ponce,  a  cavalier  had  already 
arrived  from  Spain,  empowered  by  the  king  to  form  a  settle- 
ment and  build  a  forti-ess  on  the  island  of  Porto  Rico.  His 
name  was  Christoval  de  Sotomayor;  he  was  brother  to  the 
Count  of  Camina,  and  had  been  secretary  to  Philip  I.,  sur- 
named  the  Handsome,  king  of  Castile,  and  father  of  Charles  V, 

Don  Diego  Columbus  was  higlily  displeased  with  the  act  of 
the  king  in  granting  these  powers  to  Sotomayor,  as  it  had  been 
done  without  his  knowledge  and  consent,  and  of  course  in  dis- 
regard of  his  prerogative  as  viceroy,  to  be  consulted  as  to  all 
ai^pointments  made  within  his  jurisdiction.  He  refused,  thei'e- 
fore,  to  put  Sotomayor  in  possession  of  the  island.  He  paid  as 
little  respect  to  the  claims  of  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon,  whom  he 
regarded  with  an  ungracious  eye  as  a  favourite  of  his  prede^ 
cessor  Ovando.  To  settle  the  matter  effectually,  he  exerted 
what  he  considered  his  official  and  hereditary  privilege,  and 
chose  officers  to  suit  himself,  appointing  one  Juan  Ceron  to  the 
govermnent  of  Porto  Rico,  and  Miguel  Diaz  to  serve  as  his 
lieutenant.* 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  and  his  rival  candidate,  Christoval  de 
Sotomayor,  bore  their  disappointment  with  a  good  grace. 
Though  the  command  was  denied  them,  they  still  hoped  to  im- 
prove their  fortunes  in  the  island,  and  accordingly  joined  the 
crowd  of  adventurers  that  accompanied  the  newly  appointed 
governor. 

New  changes  soon  took  place  in  consequence  of  the  jealousies 
and  misunderstandings  between  King  Ferdinand  and  the  admi- 
ral as  to  points  of  privilege.  The  former  still  seemed  disposed  to 
mamtain  the  right  of  making  appointments  without  consulting 
Don  Diego,  and  exerted  it  in  the  present  instance ;  for,  when 
Ovando,  on  his  return  to  Spain,  made  favourable  representation 
of  the  merits  of  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon,  and  set  forth  liis  services 


*  If  the  reader  has  perused  the  history  of  Columbus,  he  may  remember  the  ro- 
mantic adventure  of  this  Miguel  Diaz  with  a  female  cacique,  which  led  to  the  dis- 
covery of  the  gold  mines  of  Hayna,  and  the  foimding  of  the  city  of  San  Domingo. 


JUAN  PONCE  BE  LEON.  195 

in  exploring  Porto  Rico,  the  king  appointed  him  governor  of 
that  island,  and  signified  specifically  that  Don  Diego  Columbus 
should  not  presume  to  displace  him. 


CHAPTER  III. 

JUAN  PONCE  RULES  WITH  A  STRONG  HAND — EXASPERATION  OP 
THE  INDIANS — THEIR  EXPERIMENT  TO  PROVE  WHETHER  THE 
SPANIARDS  WERE  MORTAL. 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  assumed  the  command  of  the  island 
of  Boriquen  in  the  year  1509.  Being  a  fiery,  high-handed  old 
soldier,  his  first  step  was  to  quarrel  with  Juan  Ceron  and 
Miguel  Diaz,  the  ex-governor  and  his  lieutenant,  and  to  send 
them  prisoners  to  Spain.* 

He  was  far  more  favourable  to  liis  late  competitor,  Christoval 
de  Sotomayor.  Finding  him  to  be  a  cavalier  of  noble  blood 
and  high  connexions,  yet  void  of  pretension,  and  of  most  ac- 
commodating temper,  he  offered  to  make  him  his  lieutenant, 
and  to  give  him  the  post  of  Alcalde  Mayor,  an  offer  which  Avas 
very  thankfull;^  accepted. 

The  pride  of  rank,  however,  which  foUoAvs  a  man  even  into 
the  wilderness,  soon  interfered  with  the  quiet  of  Sotomayor ; 
he  was  ridiculed  for  descending  so  much  below  his  birth  and 
dignity,  as  to  accept  a  subaltern  situation  to  a  simple  gentleman 
in  the  island  which  he  had  originally  aspired  to  govern.  He 
could  not  withstand  these  sneers,  but  resigned  his  appointment, 
and  remained  in  the  island  as  a  private  individual ;  establishing 
himself  in  a  village  where  ne  had  a  large  repartimiento  or  allot- 
ment of  Indians  assigned  to  him  by  a  grant  from  the  king. 

Juan  Ponce  fixed  his  seat  of  government  in  a  town  called 
Caparra,  which  he  founded  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island, 
about  a  league  from  the  sea,  in  a  neighbourhood  supposed  to 
abound  in  gold.  It  was  in  front  of  the  ])ort  called  Rico,  which 
subsequently  gave  its  name  to  the  island.  The  road  to  the 
toAvn  was  up  a  moimtain,  through  a  dense  forest,  and  so  rugged 
and  miry  that  it  was  the  bane  of  man  and  beast.  It  cost  more 
to  convey  provisions  and  merchandise  up  this  league  of  moun- 
tain than  it  had  to  bring  them  from  Spain. 

♦  Herrera,  dccad.  1,  1.  vil.  c.  13. 


196  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

Juan  Ponce,  being  firmly  seated  in  his  government,  began  to 
carve  and  portion  out  the  island,  to  found  towns,  and  to  dis- 
tribute the  natives  into  repartimientos,  for  the  purpose  of 
exacting  their  labour. 

The  poor  Indians  soon  found  the  difference  between  the 
Spaniards  as  guests,  and  the  Spaniards  as  masters.  They  were 
driven  to  despaii*  by  the  heavy  tasks  imposed  upon  them ;  for 
to  their  free  spirits  and  indolent  habits,  restraint  and  labour 
were  worse  than  death.  Many  of  the  most  hardy  and  daring 
proposed  a  general  insurrection,  and  a  massacre  of  their  oppres- 
sors ;  the  great  mass,  however,  were  deterred  by  the  belief  that 
the  Spaniards  were  supernatural  beings  and  could  not  be  killed. 

A  shrewd  and  sceptical  cacique  named  Brayoan  determined 
to  put  their  immortality  to  the  test.  Hearing  that  a  young 
Spaniard  named  Salzedo  was  passing  through  his  lands,  he 
sent  a  party  of  Ms  subjects  to  escort  him,  giving  them  secret 
instructions  how  they  were  to  act.  On  coming  to  a  river  they 
took  Salzedo  on  their  shoulders  to  carry  him  across,  but  when 
in  the  midst  of  the  stream,  they  let  him  fall,  and,  throAving 
themselves  upon  him,  pressed  him  under  water  untU  he  was 
droAvned.  Then  dragging  his  body  to  the  shore,  and  still  doubt- 
ing his  being  dead,  they  wept  and  howled  over  him,  making  a 
thousand  apologies  for  having  fallen  upon  him,  and  kept  him 
so  long  beneath  the  surface. 

The  cacique  Brayoan  came  to  examine  the  body  and  pro- 
nounced it  lifeless ;  but  the  Indians,  still  fearing  it  might  pos- 
sess lurking  immortality  and  ultimately  revive,  kept  watch 
over  it  for  three  days,  until  it  showed  incontestable  signs  of 
putrefaction. 

Being  now  convinced  that  the  strangers  were  mortal  men 
like  themselves,  they  readily  entered  into  a  general  conspiracy 
to  destroy  them.* 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CONSPIRACY  OF  THE  CACIQUES— THE  FATE  OF  SOTOMAYOR. 

The  prime  mover  of  the  conspiracy  among  the  notives  was 
Agueybana,  brother  and  successor  to  the  hospitable  cacique  of 


*  Herrera,  decad.  1, 1.  viii.  c.  13. 


JUAN  PONCE  DE  LEON.  197 

the  same  name,  who  had  first  welcomed  the  Spaniards  to  the 
island,  and  who  had  fortunately  closed  his  eyes  in  peace,  be- 
fore his  native  groves  were  made  the  scones  of  violence  and 
oppression.  The  present  cacique  had  fallen  within  the  repar- 
tiniiento  of  Don  Clu-istoval  de  Sotomayor,  and,  though  treated 
by  that  cavalier  with  kindness,  could  never  reconcile  his 
proiid  spirit  to  the  yoke  of  vassalage. 

Aguej'bana  held  secret  councils  with  his  confederate  ca- 
ciques, in  wliich  they  concerted  a  plan  of  operations.  As  the 
Spaniards  were  scattered  about  in  different  places,  it  was 
agreed  that,  at  a  certain  time,  each  cacique  should  dispatch 
those  Avithin  his  province  In  arranging  the  massacre  of 
those  wit>hin  his  own  domains,  Agueybana  assigned  to  one  of 
his  inferior  caciques  the  task  of  surprising  the  village  of  Soto- 
mayor, giving  him  3.000  warriors  for  the  purpose.  He  was  to 
assail  the  village  in  the  dead  of  the  night,  to  set  fire  to  the 
houses,  and  to  slaughter  all  the  inhabitants.  He  proudly, 
however,  rosei-ved  to  himself  the  honour  of  killing  Don  Chris- 
toval  with  his  own  hand. 

Don  Christoval  had  an  unsuspected  friend  in  the  very  midst 
of  his  enemies.  Being  a  cavalier  of  gallant  appearance  and 
amiable  and  courteous  manners,  he  had  won  the  affections  of 
an  Indian  ]irincess,  the  sister  of  the  cacique  Agueybana.  She 
had  overheard  enough  of  the  war-council  of  her  brother  and 
his  warriors  to  learn  that  Sotomayor  was  in  danger.  The  life 
of  her  lover  was  more  precious  in  her  eyes  than  the  safety  of 
her  brother  and  her  tribe;  hastening,  therefore,  to  hun,  she 
told  him  all  that  she  know  or  feared,  and  warned  him  to  be 
upon  his  guard.  Sotomayor  aitpears  to  have  been  of  the  most 
easy  and  incautious  nature,  void  of  all  evil  and  deceit  himself, 
and  slow  to  suspect  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  others.  He  con- 
sidered the  apprehension  of  the  princess  as  dictated  by  her 
fond  anxiety,  and  neglected  to  profit  by  her  warning. 

He  received,  however,  about  the  same  time,  information 
from  a  different  quarter,  tending  to  the  same  point.  A  Span- 
iard, versed  in  the  language  and  customs  of  the  natives,  had 
observed  a  number  gathering  together  one  evening,  ]iainted 
and  decorated  as  if  for  battle.  Suspecting  some  lurking  mis- 
chief, he  stripped  and  painted  himself  in  their  manner,  and, 
favoured  by  the  obscurity  of  the  night,  succeeded  in  mingling 
among  them  undiscovered.  They  were  assembled  round  a  fii-e 
performing  one  of  their  mystic  war-dances,  to  the  chant  of  an 
Areyto  or    legendary  ballad.      The  strophes  and    responses 


198  SPAJVISII  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

treated  of  revenge  and  slaughter,  and  repeatedly  mentioned 
the  death  of  Sotoinayor. 

The  Spaniard  withdrew  unperceived,  and  hastened  to  ap- 
prise Don  Cliristoval  of  his  danger.  The  latter  still  made  light 
of  these  repeated  warnings;  revolving  them,  however,  in  his 
mind  in  the  stillness  of  the  night,  he  began  to  feel  some  un- 
easiness, and  determined  to  repair  in  the  morning  to  Juan 
Ponce  de  Leon,  in  his  strong-hold  at  Caparra.  With  his  fated 
heedlessness,  or  temerity,  however,  he  applied  to  Agueybana 
for  Indians  to  carry  his  baggage,  and  departed  slightly  armed, 
and  accompanied  by  but  three  Spaniards,  although  he  had  to 
pass  through  close  and  lonely  forests,  where  he  would  be  at 
the  mercy  of  any  treacherous  or  lurking  foe. 

The  cacique  watched  the  departure  of  his  intended  victim 
and  set  out  shortly  afterwards,  dogging  his  steps  at  a  distance 
through  the  forest,  accompanied  by  a  few  chosen  warriors. 
Agiieybana  and  his  party  had  not  proceeded  far  when  they 
mot  a  Spaniard  named  Juan  Gonzalez,  who  spoke  the  Indian 
language.  They  immediately  assailed  him  and  wounded  him 
in  several  places.  He  tln-ew  himself  at  the  feet  of  the  cacique, 
imploring  liis  Jife  in  the  most  abject  terms.  The  chief  spared 
iiim  for  the  moment,  being  eager  to  make  sure  of  Don  Cliristo- 
val. He  overtook  that  incautious  cavalier  in  the  veiy  heart  of 
the  woodland,  and  stealing  silently  upon  him,  burst  forth  sud- 
denly with  his  warriors  from  the  covert  of  the  thickets,  giv- 
ipg  the  fatal  war  whoop.  Before  Sotomayor  could  put  himself 
upon  his  guard  a  blow  from  the  war  club  of  the  cacique  felled 
him  to  the  earth,  when  ho  was  quickly  despatched  by  repeated 
blows.  The  four  Spaniards  who  accompanied  him  shared  his 
fate,  being  assailed,  not  merely  by  the  warriors  who  had  come 
in  pursuit  of  them,  but  by  their  o^vn  Indian  guides. 

When  Agueybana  had  glutted  his  vengeance  on  this  unfor- 
tunate cavaher,  he  returned  in  quest  of  Juan  Gonzalez.  The 
latter,  however,  had  recovered  sufficiently  from  his  wounds  to 
leave  the  place  where  he  had  been  assailed,  and,  dreading  the 
return  of  the  savages,  had  chmbed  into  a  tree  and  concealed 
himself  among  the  branches.  From  thence,  with  trembling 
anxiety  he  watched  his  pursuers  as  they  searched  aU  the  sur- 
rounding forest  for  him.  Fortunately  they  did  not  think  of 
looking  up  into  the  trees,  but,  after  beating  the  bushes  for 
some  time,  gave  up  the  search.  Though  he  saw  them  depart, 
yet  he  did  not  venture  from  his  concealment  until  the  night 
had  closed;  he  then  descended  from  the  tree  and  made  the 


JUAN  PONCE  DE  LEON.  199 

best  of  hi  z  way  to  the  residence  of  certain  Spaniards,  where 
his  wounds  were  dressed.  When  this  was  done  he  waited  not 
to  take  repose,  but  repaired  by  a  circuitous  route  to  Caparra, 
and  informed  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  of  the  danger  he  supposed 
to  be  still  impending  over  Sotomayor,  for  he  knew  not  that 
the  enemy  had  accomplished  his  death.  Juan  Ponce  inmaedi- 
ately  sent  out  forty  men  to  his  relief.  They  came  to  the  scene 
of  massacre,  where  they  foimd  the  body  of  the  unfortunate 
cavalier,  partly  buried,  but  with  the  feet  out  of  the  earth. 

In  the  mean  time  the  savages  had  accomplished  the  destinic- 
tion  of  the  village  of  Sotomayor.  They  approached  it  unper- 
ceived,  through  the  surrounding  forest,  and  entering  it  in  the 
dead  of  thft  night,  set  %'e  to  the  straw-thatched  houses,  and  at- 
tacked the  Spaniards  as  they  endeavoured  to  escape  from  the 
flames. 

Several  were  slain  at  the  onset,  but  a  brave  Spaniard,  named 
Diego  de  Salazar,  raUicd  his  countrymen,  inspirited  them  to 
beat  off  the  enemy,  and  succeeded  in  conducting  the  greater 
pa^"t  of  them,  though  sorely  mangled  and  harjissed,  to  the 
strong-hold  of  the  Governor  at  Caparra.  Scarcely  had  these 
i'ugitives  gained  the  fortress,  when  others  came  hurrymg  in 
from  all  quarters,  bringing  sunilar  tales  of  conflagi'ation  and 
massacre.  For  once  a  general  insurrection,  so  often  planned 
in  savage  life,  against  the  domination  of  the  white  men,  was 
croAvned  with  success.  All  the  villages  founded  by  the  Span- 
iards had  been  surprised,  about  a  hundred  of  their  inhabit- 
ants destroj^ed,  and  the  sui'vivors  driven  to  take  refuge  in  a 
beleaguered  fortress. 


CHAPTER  V. 

WAR  OF  JTJAN   PONCE  WITH  THE  CACIQUE  AQUEYBANA. 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  might  now  almost  bo  considered  a  gov- 
ernor without  territories,  and  a  general  without  soldiers.  IILs 
villages  were  smoking  ruins,  and  his  wliole  lorce  did  not 
amoimt  to  a  hundred  men,  several  of  whom  were  disabled  by 
their  wounds.  He  had  an  able  and  implacable  foe  in  Aguey- 
bana,  who  took  the  lead  of  all  the  ritlicr  caciques,  and  evrn 
sent  envoys  to  the  Caribs  of  the  neighbouring  islands,  entreat- 
ing them  to  forget  all  ancient  animosities,  and  to  make  com- 


200  SPANISH  VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

mon  cause  against  these  strangers — the  deadly  enemies  of  the 
whole  Indian  race.  In  the  mean  time  the  whole  of  this  wild 
island  was  in  rebellion,  and  the  forests  around  the  fortress  of 
Caparra  rang  with  the  whoops  and  yells  of  the  savages,  the 
blasts  of  their  war  conchs,  and  the  stormy  roarmg  of  their 
drums. 

Juan  Ponce  was  a  staunch  and  wary  old  soldier,  and  not 
easily  daunted.  He  remained  grimly  ensconced  within  his 
fortress,  from  whence  he  despatched  messengers  in  all  haste 
to  Hispaniola,  imploring  immediate  assistance.  In  the  mean 
time  he  tasked  his  wits  to  divert  the  enemy  and  to  keep  them 
at  bay.  He  divided  his  little  force  into  three  bodies  of  about 
thirty  men  each,  under  the  coimnand  of  Diego  Salazar,  Miguel 
do  Toro,  and  Luis  de  Anasco,  and  sent  them  out  alternately  to 
make  sudden  surprises  and  assaults,  to  form  ambuscades,  and 
to  practice  the  other  stratagems  of  partisan  warfare,  which  he 
had  learnt  in  early  life  in  his  campaigns  against  the  Moors  of 
Granada. 

One  of  his  most  efficient  warriors  was  a  dog  named  Berezillo, 
renowned  for  courage,  strength  and  sagacity.  It  is  said  that 
he  could  distiaguish  those  of  the  Indians  who  were  allies,  from 
those  who  were  enemies  of  the  Spaniards.  To  the  former  he 
was  docile  and  friendly,  to  the  latter  fierce  and  implacable. 
He  was  the  terror  of  the  natives,  who  were  unaccustomed  to 
powerful  and  ferocious  animals,  and  did  more  ser^ace  in  this 
wild  warfare  than  could  have  been  rendered  by  several 
soldiers.  His  prowess  was  so  highly  appreciated  that  his 
master  received  for  him  the  pay -allowance,  and  share  of  booty, 
assigned  to  a  cross-bow  man,  which  was  the  highest  stipend 
given.* 

At  length  the  stout  old  cavalier  Juan  Ponce  was  reinforced 
in  his  strong-hold  by  troops  from  Hispaniola,  whereupon  he 
sallied  forth  boldly  to  take  revenge  upon  those  who  had  thus 
hold  him  in  a  kind  of  durance.  His  foe  Agueybana  was  at 
that  time  encamped  in  his  own  territories  with  more  than  five 
thousand  warriors,  but  in  a  negligent,  unwatchfnl  state,  for 
he  knew  nothing  of  the  reinforcements  of  the  Spaniards,  and 

*Thi.s  famous  dog  was  killed  some  years  afterwards  by  a  poisoned  arrow,  as  he 
was  swimming  in  the  sea  in  pursuit  of  a  Carib  Indian.  He  left,  however,  a  num- 
erous progeny  and  a  great  name  behind  him;  and  his  meritc  and  exploits  were 
long  a  favourite  theme  nmong  the  Spnni.'^h  colonis's.  He  was  father  to  the 
renowned  Leoncico,  the  faithful  dog  of  Vasco  Nufiez,  which  resembled  him  ia 
looks  and  e^iualled  him  in  prowess. 


JUAN  PONCE  BE  lEON.  2<»1 

supposed  Juan  Ponce  shut  up  with  his  handful  of  men  in 
Caparra.  The  old  soldier,  therefore,  took  him  completely 
by  surprise,  and  routed  him  with  great  slaughter.  Indeed,  it 
is  said  the  Indians  Aver<^  struck  with  a  kind  of  panic  when 
they  saw  the  Spaniards  as  numerous  as  ever,  notwitlistand- 
ing  the  number  they  had  massacred.  Tlieir  belief  in  their 
immortality  revived ;  they  fancied  that  those  whom  they  had 
slain  had  returned  to  life,  and  they  despaired  of  victory  over 
beings  who  could  thus  arise  with  renovated  vigour  from  the 
grave. 

Various  petty  actions  and  skirmishes  afterwards  took  place, 
in  which  the  Indians  were  defeated.  Agueybana,  however, 
disdained  ihis  petty  warfare,  and  stirred  up  his  ccnxntrymen  to 
assemble  their  forces,  and  by  one  grand  assault  to  decide  the 
fate  of  themselves  and  their  island.  Juan  Ponce  received 
secret  tidings  of  their  intent,  and  of  the  place  where  they  were 
assembhng.  He  had  at  that  time  barely  eighty  men  at  his 
disposal,  but  then  they  Avore  cased  in  steel  and  proof  against 
the  weapons  of  the  savages.  Without  stopping  to  reflect,  the 
high-mettled  old  cavalier  put  himself  at  their  head  and  led 
them  through  the  forest  in  quest  of  the  foe. 

It  was  nearly  sunset  when  he  came  in  sight  of  the  Indian 
camp,  and  the  multitude  of  warriors  assembled  there  made 
him  pause,  and  almost  repent  of  his  temerity.  He  was  as 
shrewd,  however,  as  he  was  hardy  and  resolute.  Ordering 
some  of  his  men  in  the  advance  to  skirmish  with  the  enemy, 
he  hastily  threw  up  a  slight  fortification  with  tlio  assistance  of 
the  rest.  When  it  was  finished  he  witlidrew  his  forces  into  it 
and  ordered  them  to  keep  merely  on  the  defensive.  The 
Indians  made  repeated  attacks,  but  were  as  often  repulsed 
with  loss.  Some  of  the  Spaniards,  impatient  of  this  covert 
warfare,  would  sally  forth  in  open  field  with  pike  and  cross- 
bow, but  were  called  back  -within  the  fortification  by  their 
wary  commander. 

The  cacique  Aguej^bana  was  enraged  at  finding  his  host  of 
warriors  thus  baffled  and  kept  at  bay  by  a  mere  handful  of 
Spaniards.  He  beheld  the  night  closing  in,  and  feared  that  in 
the  darkness  the  enemy  would  escape.  Summoning  liis 
choicest  warriors  round  him,  therefore,  he  led  the  way  in  a 
general  assault,  when,  as  he  approached  the  fortress,  he  re- 
ceived a  mortal  wound  from  an  arquebus  and  fell  dead  upon 
the  spot. 

The  Spaniards  were  not  aware  at  fh-st  of  the  importance  of 


202  SFAJVISU   VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERT. 

the  chief  whom  they  had  slain.  They  soon  surmised  it,  how- 
ever, from  the  confusion  that  ensued  among  the  enemy,  who 
bore  off  the  body  with  great  lamentations,  and  made  no 
fiu'ther  attack. 

The  wary  Juan  Ponce  took  advantage  of  the  evident  distress 
of  the  foe,  to  draw  off  his  small  forces  in  the  night,  hapi)y  to 
get  out  of  the  terrible  jeopardy  into  which  a  rash  confidence 
had  betrayed  him.  Some  of  his  fiery-spirited  officers  would 
have  kept  the  field  in  spite  of  the  overwhelming  force  of  the 
enemy.  ''No,  no,"  said  the  shrewd  veteran;  "it  is  better  to 
protract  the  war  than  to  risk  all  upon  a  single  battle." 

While  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  was  fighting  hard  to  maintain 
his  sway  over  the  island,  his  transient  dignity  was  overturned 
by  another  power,  against  which  the  prowess  of  the  old 
soldier  was  of  no  avail.  King  Ferdinand  had  repented  of  the 
step  he  had  ill-advisedly  taken,  in  superceding  the  governor 
and  lieutenant  governor,  appointed  by  Don  Diego  Columbus. 
He  became  conviijced,  though  rather*  tardily,  that  it  was  an 
infringement  of  the  rights  of  the  admii-al,  and  that  poMcy,  as 
well  as  justice,  required  hun  to  retract  it.  When  Juan  Ceron 
and  Miguel  Diaz,  therefore,  came  prisoners  to  Spain,  he 
received  them  graciously,  conferred  many  favors  on  them  to 
atone  for  their  rough  ejectment  from  office,  and  finally,  after 
some  time,  sent  them  back,  empowered  to  resume  the  com- 
mand of  the  island.  They  were  ordered,  however,  on  no 
account  to  manifest  rancour  or  ill-will  against  Juan  Ponce  de 
Leon,  or  to  interfere  with  any  property  he  might  hold,  either 
in  houses,  lands  or  Indians;  but  on  the  contrary,  to  cultivate 
the  most  friendly  understanding  with  him.  The  king  also 
wrote  to  the  hardy  veteran  explaining  to  him,  that  this  resti- 
tution of  Ceron  and  Diaz  had  been  determined  upon  in  council, 
as  a  mere  act  of  justice  due  to  them,  but  was  not  intended  as 
a  censure  upon  his  conduct,  and  that  means  should  be  sought 
to  indemnify  him  for  the  loss  of  his  command. 

By  the  time  the  governor  and  bin  lieutenant  reached  the 
island,  Juan  Ponce  had  completed  its  subjugation.  The  death 
of  the  island  champion,  the  brave  Agueybana,  had  in  fact  been 
a  death  blow  to  the  natives,  and  shows  how  much  in  savage 
warfare,  depends  upon  a  single  chieftain.  They  never  made 
head  of  war  afterwards ;  but,  dispersing  among  their  forests 
and  mountains,  fell  graduaUy  under  the  power  of  the  Span- 
iards. Their  subsequent  fate  was  like  that  of  their  neighbours 
of  Hayti.    They  were  employed  in  the  labour  of  the  mines, 


JUAN  PONCE  DE  LEON.  203 

and  in  other  nide  toils  so  repuj^nant  to  their  nature  that  they 
sanlc  beneath  them,  and,  in  a  Hltle  while,  almost  all  the 
aboriginals  disappeared  fi-oni  the  island. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


JUAN    PONCE    DE  LEON    HEARS  OF    A  WONDERFUL    COUNTRY  AND 
MIRACULOUS  FOUNTAIN. 

JuAN  PoNCE  DE  Leon  resig:ned  the  command  of  Porto  Rico 
with  tolerable  pcrace.  The  loss  of  one  wild  island  and  wild 
government  was  of  little  moment,  when  there  was  a  new 
world  to  be  shared  out,  where  a  bold  soldier  Uke  himself,  with 
sword  and  buckler,  might  readily  cai-ve  out  new  fortunes  for 
liimself .  Beside,  he  had  now  amassed  wealth  to  assist  him  in 
his  plans,  and,  like  many  of  the  early  discoverers,  his  brain 
was  teeming  with  the  most  romantic  enterprises.  He  had 
conceived  the  idea  that  there  was  yet  a  third  world  to  be  dis- 
covered, and  he  hoped  to  be  the  first  to  reach  its  shores,  and 
thus  to  secure  a  renown  equal  to  that  of  Columbus. 

While  cogitating  these  things,  and  considering  which  way 
he  should  strike  forth  in  the  unexplored  regions  around  him, 
he  met  with  some  old  Indians  who  gave  him  tidings  of  a 
country  which  promised,  not  merely  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of 
his  ambition,  but  to  realize  the  fondest  dreams  of  the  poets. 
They  assured  him  that,  far  to  the  north,  there  existed  a  land 
abounding  in  gold  and  in  ail  manner  of  delights;  but,  above 
all,  possessing  a  river  of  such  wonderful  virtue  that  whoever 
bathed  in  it  woidd  be  restored  to  youth !  They  added,  that  in 
times  past,  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  a  large  party 
of  the  natives  of  Cuba  had  departed  northward  in  searcli  of 
this  happy  land  and  this  river  of  life,  and,  having  never 
returned,  it  was  concluded  that  they  were  flourishing  in 
renovated  youth,  detained  by  the  pleasures  of  that  enchanting 
country. 

Here  was  the  dream  of  the  alchymist  realized !  one  had  but 
to  find  this  gifted  land  and  revel  in  the  enjoyment  of  bound- 
less riches  and  perennial  youth!  nay,  some  of  the  ancient 
Indians  declared  tliat  it  was  not  necessary  to  go  so  far  in  quest 
of  these  rejuvenating  waters,  for  that,  in  a  certain  island  of 


204  SPAmSH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

the  Bahama  group,  called  Bimini,  which  lay  far  out  in  the 
ocean,  there  was  a  fountain  possessing  the  same  marvellous 
and  inestimable  quaUties. 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  listened  to  these  tales  with  fond  credu- 
lity. He  was  advancing  in  life,  and  the  ordinary  term  of  exis- 
tence seemed  insuflScient  for  his  mighty  plans.  Could  he  but 
plunge  into  this  marvellous  foimtain  or  gifted  river,  and  come 
out  with  his  battered,  war-worn  body  restored  to  the  strength 
and  freshness  and  suppleness  of  youth,  and  his  head  still  retain- 
mg  the  wisdom  and  knowledge  of  age,  Avliat  enterprises  might 
he  not  accomphsh  ia  the  additional  course  of  vigorous  years 
insured  to  him ! 

It  may  seem  incredible,  at  the  present  day,  that  a  man  of 
years  and  experience  coidd  yield  any  faith  to  a  story  which 
resembles  the  wild  fiction  of  an  Ai-abian  tale ;  but  the  wonders 
and  novelties  breaking  upon  the  world  in  that  age  of  discovery 
almost  reahzed  the  illusions  of  fable,  and  the  unaginations  of 
the  Spanish  voyagers  had  become  so  heated  that  they  were 
capable  of  any  stretch  of  credulity. 

So  fully  persuaded  was  the  worthy  old  cavalier  of  the  exist- 
ence of  the  region  described  to  him,  that  he  fitted  out  three 
ships  at  his  own  exnense  to  prosecute  the  discovery,  nor  had 
he  any  difficulty  in  finding  adventurers  in  abundance  ready  to 
cruise  with  him  in  quest  of  this  fairy -land.* 

*  It  was  not  the  credvilous  minds  of  voyag'ers  and  adventurers  alone  that  were 
heated  by  these  Indian  traditions  and  romantic  fables.  Men  of  learning  and 
eminence  were  likewise  beguiled  by  them:  witness  the  following  extract  from  the 
second  decade  of  Peter  Martyr,  addressed  to  Leo  X.,  then  Bishop  of  Rome: 

'■  Among  the  islands  on  the  north  side  of  Hispaniola  there  is  one  about  325  leagues 
distant,  as  they  say  which  have  searched  the  same,  in  the  which  is  a  continuai 
spring  of  running  water,  of  such  marvellous  virtue  that  the  water  thereof  being 
drunk,  perhaps  with  some  diet,  maketh  olde  men  young  again.  And  here  I  must 
make  protestation  to  your  holiness  not  to  think  this  to  be  said  lightly  or  rashly,  for 
they  have  so  spread  this  rumour  for  a  truth  throughout  all  the  court,  that  not  only 
all  the  people,  but  also  many  of  them  whom  wisdom  or  fortune  hath  divided  from 
the  common  sort,  think  it  to  be  true:  but,  if  you  will  ask  my  opinion  herein,  I  will 
answer  that  I  will  not  attribute  so  great  power  to  nature,  but  that  God  hath  no 
lesse  reserved  this  prerogative  to  himself  than  to  search  the  hearts  of  men."  &c. — 
P.  Martyr,  D.  2.  c.  10,  Lok's  translation. 


JUAN  PONCE  DR  LEON.  205 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

CRUISE  OP  JUAN   PONCE  DE  LEON  IN    SEARCH  OF    THE    FOUNTAIN 
OF  YOUTH.— 1512. 

It  was  on  the  third  of  March,  1512,  that  Juan  Ponce  sailed 
with  his  three  ships  from  the  Port  of  St.  Gennain  in  the 
island  of  Porto  Rico.  He  kept  for  some  distance  along  the 
coast  of  Hispaniola,  and  then,  stretching  away  to  the  north- 
ward, made  for  the  Bahama  islands,  and  soon  fell  in  with  tho 
first  of  the  group.  He  was  favoured  Avith  propitious  weather 
and  tranquil  seas,  and  glided  smoothly  with  wind  and  current 
along  that  verdant  archipelago,  visiting  one  island  after 
another,  until,  on  the  fourteenth  of  the  month,  he  arrived  at 
Guanahani,  or  St.  Salvador's,  where  Christopher  Columbus 
had  first  put  his  ioot  on  the  shores  of  the  new  woild.  His 
in(|uiries  lor  the  island  of  Bimini  were  all  in  vain,  and  as  to 
the  fountain  of  youth,  he  may  have  drank  of  every  fountain 
and  river,  and  toke  of  the  archipelago,  even  to  the  salt  pools 
of  Turks  island,  without  being  a  whit  the  younger. 

Still  he  was  not  discouraged ;  but,  having  repaii-ed  his  ships, 
he  again  put  to  sea  and  shaped  liis  course  to  the  north-west. 
On  Sunday,  the  27th  of  March,  he  came  in  sight  of  what  he 
supposed  to  be  an  island,  but  was  prevented  fi-om  landing  by 
adverse  weather.  He  continued  hovering  about  it  for  several 
days,  buffeted  by  the  elements,  until,  in  the  night  of  tho 
second  of  April,  he  succeeded  in  coming  to  anchor  under  the 
land  in  thirty  degrees  eight  mimites  of  latitude.  The  whole 
countiy  was  in  the  fresh  bloom  of  spring;  the  trees  were  gay 
with  blossoms,  and  the  fields  covered  with  flowers;  from 
Avhich  circumstance,  as  well  as  from  having  discovered  it  on 
Palm  Sunday,  (Pascua  Florida,)  he  gave  it  the  name  of 
Flonda,  which  it  retains  to  the  present  day.  The  Indian  name 
of  the  country  was  Cautio.* 

Juan  Ponce  landed,  and  took  possession  of  the  country  in 
the  name  of  the  Cnstilian  Sovereigns.  He  afterwards  con- 
tinued for  several  weeks  ranging  the  coasts  of  this  flowery 
land,  and  struggling  against  the  giilf-stream  and  the  various 
currents  which  sweep  it.  He  doubled  Cape  Canaveral,  and 
recomaoitered  the  southern  and  eastern  shores  without  suspect- 

'^■■'~    '"  ■   -■•         -■      ■-■  ■■■   -'■— —     ■     ■■  ■  '       -I  —  ..—  -  — ■       1^ 

r  Ilorrera^  Hist.  lad.  d.  1.  I,  Ix.  c.  10. 


^#00  SPAmSH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

ing  that  this  was  a  part  of  Terra  Firma.  In  all  his  attempts  to 
explore  the  country,  he  met  with  resolute  and  implacable 
hostility  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  who  appeared  to  be  a  fierce 
and  warlike  race.  He  was  disappointed  also  in  his  hopes  of 
finding  gold,  nor  did  any  of  the  rivers  or  fountains  wliich  he 
examined  possess  the  rejuvenating  virtue.  Convinced,  there- 
fore, that  this  was  not  the  promised  land  of  Indian  tradition, 
he  turned  his  prow  homeward  on  the  14th  of  June,  with  the 
intention  in  the  way  of  making  one  more  attempt  to  find  the 
island  of  Bimini. 

In  the  outset  of  his  return  he  discovered  a  group  of  islets 
abounding  with  sea-fowl  and  marine  animals.  On  one  of  them 
his  sailors,  in  the  course  of  a  single  night,  caught  one  hundred 
and  seventy  turtles,  and  might  have  taken  many  more,  had 
they  been  so  inclmed.  They  likewise  took  fourteen  sea  wolves, 
and  killed  a  vast  quantity  of  pelicans  and  other  bh-ds.  To  this 
group  Juan  Ponce  gave  the  name  of  the  Toiiiugas,  or  turtles, 
which  they  stiU  retain. 

Proceeding  in  his  cruise,  he  touched  at  another  group  of 
islets  near  the  Lucayos,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  La  Vieja, 
or  the  Old  Woman  group,  because  he  found  no  inhabitant 
there  but  one  old  Indian  woman.*  This  ancient  sybil  he  took 
on  board  his  ship  to  give  him  information  about  tne  labyrinth 
of  islands  into  which  he  was  entering,  and  perhaps  he  could  not 
have  had  a  more  suitable  guide  in  the  eccentric  quest  he  was 
making.  Notwithstanding  her  pilotage,  however,  he  was  ex- 
ceedingly baffled  and  perplexed  in  liis  return  voyage  among 
the  Bahama  islands,  for  he  was  forcing  his  way  as  it  were 
against  the  course  of  nature,  and  encountering  the  currents 
which  sweep  westward  along  these  islands,  and  the  trade- wind 
which  accompanies  them.  For  a  long  tune  he  struggled  with 
all  kinds  of  difficulties  and  dangers ;  and  was  obliged  to  re- 
main upwards  of  a  month  in  one  of  the  islands  to  repair  the 
damages  which  his  ship  had  suffered  in  a  storm. 

Disheartened  at  length  by  the  perils  and  trials  with  which 
nature  seemed  to  have  beset  the  approach  to  Bimini,  as  to 
some  fairy  island  in  romance,  he  gave  up  the  quest  in  person, 
and  sent  in  his  place  a  trusty  captain,  Juan  Perez  de  Ortubia, 
who  departed  in  one  of  the  other  ships,  guided  by  the  ex- 
perienced old  woman  of  the  isles,  and  by  another  Indian.  As 
to  Juan  Ponce,  he  made  the  best  of  his  way  back  to  Porto 

*  Herrera,  d.  1,1.  ix. 


JUAN  PONt'h'  JJ/'J  I.RON.  207 

Rico,  where  he  arrived  infinitely  poorer  in  purse  and  wrinkled 
in  brow,  by  this  cruise  after  inexhaustible  riches  and  perpetual 
y(juth. 

Ho  had  not  been  long  in  port  when  his  trusty  envoy,  Juan 
Perez,  likewise  arrived.  Guided  by  the  sage  old  woman,  he 
had  succeeded  in  finding  the  long-sought-for  Bimini.  He  de- 
scribed it  as  being  large,  verdant,  and  covered  with  beautiful 
groves.  There  were  crystal  springs  and  limpid  streams  in 
abundance,  which  kept  the  island  in  perpetual  verdure,  but 
none  that  could  restore  to  an  old  man  the  vernal  gi'eenness  of 
his  youth. 

Thus  ended  the  romantic  expedition  of  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon. 
Like  many  other  pui-suits  of  a  chimera,  it  terminated  in  the 
acquisition  of  a  substantial  good.  Though  ho  had  failed  in 
finding  the  fairy  fountain  of  youth,  he  had  discovered  in  place 
of  it  the  important  country  of  Florida.* 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


EXPEDITION  OF  JUAN   PONCE  AGAINST  THE  CARIBS — HIS  DEATH. — 

(1514.) 

Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  now  repaired  to  Spain  to  make  a  re- 
port of  his  voyage  to  King  Ferdinand.  The  hardy  old  cava- 
lier experienced  much  raillery  from  the  witlings  of  the  court 
on  accoimt  of  his  visionary  voyage,  though  many  wise  men 
had  been  as  crerlulous  as  himself  at  the  outset.  The  king, 
however,  received  him  with  great  favour,  and  conferred  on 
him  the  title  of  Adelantado  of  Bimini  and  Florida,  which  last 
was  as  yet  considered  an  island.  Permission  was  also  granted 
him  to  recruit  men  either  in  Spain  or  in  the  colonies  for  a  set- 


♦The  belief  of  the  existence.  In  Florida,  of  a  river  like  that  Bonght  by  Juan  Ponce, 
was  long'  prpvnli>nt  amonp  the  Tnfiians  of  Cuba,  and  the  caoir)iies  wore  anxious  to 
discover  it.  That  a  party  of  the  natives  of  Cuba  once  went  in  search  of  it.  and  re- 
mained there,  appears  to  be  a  fact,  as  thi-i'-  descendants  were  afterwards  to  be 
traced  amonc  ttie  people  of  Florida.  Las  Oasas  says,  that  even  in  his  days,  many 
persisted  in  seekintr  this  mvstery.  and  some  fhonpht  that  the  river  was  no  other 
than  that  called  the  .Jordan,  at  the  point  of  St  Helena:  without  considwrinp  that 
the  name  was  given  to  it  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  year  1520,  when  they  discovered 
the  land  of  Chicora. 


208  SPANISH    VOYAGES   OF  DISCOVERY. 

tlcmcnt  in  Florida ;  but  he  deferred  entering  on  his  command 
for  the  present,  being  probably  discouraged  and  impoverished 
by  the  losses  in  his  last  expedition,  or  finding  a  difficulty  in 
enUsting  adventurers.  At  length  another  enterprise  present- 
ed itself.  The  caribs  had  by  this  time  become  a  terror  to  the 
Spanish  inliabitants  of  many  of  the  islands,  making  descents 
iipon  the  coasts  and  carrying  olf  captives,  who  it  was  supposed 
"vvere  doomed  to  be  devoured  by  these  cannibals.  Ho  fre- 
quent wore  their  invasions  of  the  island  of  Porto  Eico,  that 
it  was  feared  they  would  ultimately  oblige  the  Spaniards  to 
abandon  it. 

At  length  King  Ferdinand,  in  1514,  ordered  that  three  ships, 
well  armed  and  manned,  should  be  fitted  out  in  Seville,  des- 
tined to  scour  the  islands  of  the  Caribs,  and  to  free  the  seas 
from  those  cannibal  marauders.  The  command  of  the  Armada 
was  g;iven  to  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon,  from  his  knowledge  in  In- 
dian warfare,  and  his  varied  and  rough  experience  which  had 
mingled  m  him  the  soldier  with  the  sailor.  He  was  instructed 
in  the  first  place  to  assail  the  Caribs  of  those  islands  most  con- 
tiguous and  dangerous  to  Porto  Eico,  and  then  to  make  war 
on  those  of  the  coast  of  Terra  Firma,  in  the  neighboiu'hood  of 
Carthagena.  He  was  afterwards  to  take  the  captaincy  of 
Porto  Eico,  and  to  attend  to  the  repartimientos  or  distribu- 
tions of  the  Indians  in  conjunction  with  a  person  to  be  ap- 
pointed by  Diego  Columbus. 

The  enterprise  suited  the  soldier-like  spirit  of  Juan  Ponce  de 
Leon,  and  the  gallant  old  cavalier  set  sail  full  of  confidence  in 
January,  1515,  and  steered  direct  for  the  Caribbees,  with  a  de- 
termination to  give  a  wholesome  castigation  to  the  whole  sav- 
age archipelago.  Arriving  at  the  island  of  Guadaloupe,  he 
cast  anchor,  and  sent  men  on  shore  for  wood  and  water,  and 
women  to  wash  the  clothing  of  the  crews,  with  a  party  of  sol- 
diers to  mount  guard. 

Juan  Ponce  had  not  been  as  Avary  as  usual,  or  he  had  to  deal 
with  savages  unusually  adroit  in  warfare.  While  the  people 
were  scattered  carelessly  on  shore,  the  Caribs  rushed  forth 
from  an  ambuscade,  killed  the  greater  part  of  the  men,  and 
carried  off  the  women  to  the  mountains. 

This  blow  at  the  very  outset  of  his  vaunted  expedition  sank 
deep  into  the  heart  of  Juan  Ponce,  and  put  an  end  to  all  his 
military  excitement.  Humbled  and  mortified,  he  set  sail  for 
the  island  of  Porto  Eico,  where  he  relinquished  all  further 
prosecution  of  the  enterprise,  under  pretext  of  ill  health,  and 


JUAN  PONCE  1)K  LEON.  209 

gave  the  comrannd  of  the  squadron  to  a  captain  named  Zufiiga; 
but  it  is  surmised  that  his  malady  was  not  so  much  of  the  flesli 
as  of  the  spirit.  He  remained  in  Porto  Rico  as  governor:  hut, 
havini.'  j^i-own  testy  and  irritable  through  vexations  and  disap- 
pointments, he  gave  great  offence,  and  caused  much  contention 
on  the  island  by  positive  and  strong-handed  measures,  in  re- 
spect to  the  distribution  of  the  Indians. 

He  continued  for  several  yoars  in  that  island,  in  a  state  of 
fTov'ling  repose,  imtil  tlie  brilliant  exploits  of  Hernando  Cortez, 
•wujch  threatened  to  eclipse  the  achievements  of  all  the  veteran 
d^icoverers,  roused  liis  dormant  spirit. 

Jealous  of  being  cast  in  the  shade  in  his  old  day  s,  he  deter- 
mined to  sail}'  forth  on  one  more  expedition.  He  had  heard 
that  Florida,  which  he  had  discovered,  and  which  he  had 
hitherto  considered  a  mere  island,  was  part  of  Terra  Firma, 
possessing  vast  and  unlcnown  regions  m  its  bosom.  If  so,  a 
grand  field  of  enterprise  lay  before  him,  wherein  he  might 
make  discoveries  and  conquests  to  rival,  if  not  surpass,  the , 
far-famed  conquest  of  Mexico. 

Accordingly,  in  the  year  1521  he  fitted  out  two  ships  at  the 
island  of  Porto  Rico,  and  embarked  almost  the  vrhole  of  his 
property  in  the  undertaking.  His  voyage  was  toilsome  and 
tempestuous,  but  at  length  he  arrived  at  the  wished-for  land. 
He  made  a  descent  upon  the  coast  with  a  great  part  of  his 
men,  but  the  Indians  sallied  forth  with  unusual  valour  to  de- 
fend their  shores.  A  bloody  battle  ensued,  several  of  the 
Spaniards  were  slain,  and  Juan  Ponce  was  wounded  hy  an 
arrow,  in  the  thigh.  He  was  borne  on  board  his  ship,  and 
finding  him.self  disabled  for  further  action,  set  sail  for  Cuba, 
where  he  arrived  ill  in  body  and  dejected  in  heart. 

He  was  of  an  age  when  there  is  no  longer  i>rompt  and  health- 
ful reaction  either  mental  or  corporeal.  The  irritations  of 
humiliated  pride  and  disappointed  hope,  exasperated  the  fever 
of  liis  wound,  and  he  died  soon  after  his  arrival  at  the  island. 
"  Thus  fate,"  says  one  of  the  quaint  old  Spanish  writers,  "  de- 
lights to  reverse  the  schemes  of  man.  Tlie  discovery  that 
Juan  Ponce  flattered  himself  was  to  lead  to  a  means  of  per- 
petuating his  life,  had  the  ultimate  effect  of  hastening  his 
death." 

It  may  be  said,  however,  that  he  has  at  least  attained  the 
shadow  of  his  desire,  since,  though  disappointed  in  extending 
the  natural  term  of  his  existence,  his  discovery  has  ensured  a 
lasting  duration  to  his  name. 


210  SPAmSII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEET. 

The  following  epitaph  was  inscribed  upon  his  tomb,  which 
does  justice  to  the  warrior  qualities  of  the  stout  old  cavalier: 

Mole  sub  hac  fortis  reqiiiescat  ossa  Leonis, 
Qui  vicit  factis  nomina  magna  suis. 

It  has  thus  been  paraphrased  in  Spanish  by  the  Licentiate 
Juan  de  Castellanos. 

Aqueste  lugar  estrecho 
Es  sepulchro  del  varon, 
Que  en  el  nombre  fue  Leon, 
Y  mucho  mas  en  el  hecho. 

"  In  this  sepulchre  rest  the  bones  of  a  man,  who  was  a  lioa 
by  name,  and  still  more  by  nature." 


APPENDIX.  211 


APPENDIX. 


A  VISIT  TO  PALOS. 

[The  followliif?  narrative  was  actually  commenced,  by  the  author  of  this  work,  as 
a  letter  to  a  friend,  but  unexpectedly  swelled  to  its  present  size.  He  has  been  in- 
duced to  insert  it  here  from  the  idea  that  many  will  feel  the  same  curiosity  to 
know  something  of  the  present  state  of  Palos  and  its  inhabitante  that  led  him  to 
make  the  journey.] 

Seville,  1828. 

Since  I  last  wrote  to  you  I  have  made,  what  I  may  term,  an 
American  Pilgrimage,  to  visit  the  little  port  of  Palos  in 
Andalusia,  where  Columbus  fitted  out  his  ships,  and  whence 
he  sailed  for  the  discovery  of  the  Now  World.  Need  I  tell  you 
how  deeph'  interesting  and  gratifying  it  has  been  to  me?  I 
had  long  meditated  this  excursion  as  a  kind  of  pious,  and.  if  I 
may  say,  filial  duty  of  an  American,  and  my  intention  was 
quickened  when  I  learnt  that  many  of  the  edifices  mentioned 
in  the  history  of  Columbus  still  remained  in  nearly  the  same 
state  in  which  they  existed  at  the  time  of  his  sojourn  at  Palos, 
and  that  the  descendants  of  the  intrepid  Pinzons,  who  aided 
him  with  ships  and  money,  and  sailed  with  him  in  the  great 
vo3'age  of  discovery,  still  flourished  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  very  evening  before  my  departure  from  Seville  on  the 
excursion,  I  heard  that  there  was  a  young  gentleman  of  the 
Pinzon  family  studying  law  in  the  city.  I  got  introduced  to 
him,  and  found  him  of  most  prepossessing  appearance  and 
manners.  He  gave  me  a  letter  of  introduction  to  his  father, 
Don  Juan  Fernandez  Pinzon,  resident  of  Moguer,  and  the  pre- 
sent head  of  the  family. 

As  it  was  in  the  middle  of  August,  and  the  weather  in- 
tensely hot.  I  hired  a  calesa  for  the  journey.  This  is  a  two- 
wheeled  carriage,  resembling  a  cabriolet;  but  of  the  most 
primitive  and  rude  construction;  the  harness  is  profusely 
ornamented  with  brass,  and  the  horse's  head  decorated  with 


212  SrANISir   VOYAGES   OF  I) [SCO VERY. 

tufts  and  tassels  and  dangling  bob.T  of  scarlet  and  3-ellow 
worsted.  I  had,  for  calasero,  a  tall,  long-legged  AndaUisian, 
in  short  jacket,  little  round-crowned  hat,  breeches  decorated 
with  buttons  from  the  hip  to  the  knees,  and  a  pair  of  russet 
leather  bottinas  or  spatter-dashes.  He  was  an  active  fellow, 
though  uncommonly  taciturn  for  an  Andalusian,  and  strode 
along  beside  his  horse,  rousing  hun  occasionally  to  grea  ^^ 
speed  by  a  loud  malediction  or  a  hearty  thwack  of  his  cudgel. 

In  this  style  I  set  off  late  in  the  day  to  avoid  the  noon-tide 
heat,  and  after  ascending  the  lofty  range  of  hills  that  borders 
the  great  valley  of  the  Guadalquivir,  and  having  a  rough  ride 
among  their  heights,  I  descended  about  twilight  into  one  of 
those  vast,  silent,  melancholy  plains,  frequent  iii  Spain,  where 
I  beheld  no  other  signs  of  life  than  a  roaming  flock  of  bustards, 
and  a  distant  herd  of  cattle,  guarded  by  a  sohtary  herdsman, 
who,  with  a  long  pike  planted  in  the  earth,  stood  motionless  in 
the  midst  of  the  dreary  landscape,  resembling  an  Arab  of  the 
desert.  The  night  had  somewhat  advanced  when  we  stopp  i 
to  repose  for  a  few  hours  at  a  solitary  venta  or  inn,  if  it  might 
so  be  called,  being  nothing  more  than  a  vast  low-roofed  stable, 
divided  into  several  compartments  for  the  reception  of  the 
troops  of  mules  and  arrieros  (or  carriers)  who  carry  on  the 
internal  trade  of  Spain.  Accommodation  for  the  traveller 
there  was  none — not  even  for  a  traveller  so  easily  accom- 
modated as  myself.  The  landlord  had  no  food  to  give  me,  and 
as  to  a  bed,  he  had  none  but  a  horse  cloth,  on  which  his  only 
child,  a  boy  of  eight  years  old,  lay  naked  on  the  earthen  floor. 
Indeed  the  heat  of  the  weath(;r  and  the  fumes  from  the  stables 
made  the  interior  of  the  hovel  insupportable,  so  I  was  fain  to 
bivouac  on  my  cloak  on  the  pavement  at  the  door  of  the  venta, 
where  on  waking  after  two  or  three  hours  of  sound  sleep,  I 
found  a  contrabandista  (or  smuggler)  snoring  beside  me,  with 
his  blunderbuss  on  his  arm. 

I  resumed  my  journey  before  break  of  day,  and  had  made 
several  leagues  by  ten  o'clock,  when  we  stopped  to  breakfast 
and  to  pass  the  sultry  hours  of  midday  m  a  large  village,  from 
whence  we  departed  about  four  o'clock,  and,  after  passing 
through  the  same  kind  of  solitary  country,  arrived  just  after 
sunset  at  Moguer.  This  little  city  (for  at  present  it  is  a  city)  is 
situated  about  a  league  from  Palos,  of  which  place  it  has  gra- 
dually absorbed  aU  the  respectable  inhabitants,  and,  among 
the  number,  the  whole  family  of  the  Pinzons. 

So  remote  is  this  little  place  from  the  stir  and  bustle  of 


APPKNDIX.  213 

travel,  and  so  destitute  of  tlie  show  and  vain-glory  of  this 
world,  that  my  calcsa,  as  it  rattltxi  and  jingled  along  the  nar- 
row and  ill-paved  streets,  caused  a  great  sensation;  the  chil- 
dren shouttMl  and  scampered  along  by  its  side,  admiring  its 
splendid  trappings  of  brass  and  worsted,  and  gating  with  rev- 
erc^nce  at  the  important  stranger  who  came  in  so  gorgeous  an 
''-*<,uipage. 

I  drove  up  to  the  principal  posada,  the  landlord  of  whicii 
was  at  the  door.  He  was  one  of  the  very  civilest  men  in  the 
world,  and  disposed  to  do  every  thing  in  his  power  to  make 
me  comfortable ;  there  was  only  one  difficulty,  he  had  neither 
bed  nor  bedroom  in  his  house.  In  fact,  it  was  a  mere  venta 
for  muleteers,  who  are  accustomed  to  sleep  on  the  ground  with 
their  mule-cloths  for  beds  and  pack-saddles  for  pillows.  It 
was  a  hard  case,  but  there  was  no  better  posada  in  the  place. 
Few  people  travel  for  pleasure  or  curiosity  in  these  out-of-the- 
'"-ay  parts  of  Spain,  and  those  of  any  note  are  generally  re- 
'  .^ived  into  private  houses.  I  had  travelled  suflicreutly  m 
Spain  to  find  out  that  a  bed,  after  all,  is  not  an  article  of  indis- 
pensable! necessity,  and  was  about  to  bespeak  some  quiet 
corner  where  I  might  spread  my  cloak,  Avhen,  fortunately,  tlie 
liuidlord's  Avife  came  forth.  She  could  not  have  a  more  oblig- 
ing disposition  than  her  husband,  but  then — God  bless  the 
women!— they  always  know  how  to  carry  their  good  wishes 
into  effect.  In  a  little  while  a  small  room  about  ten  feet 
square,  that  had  formed  a  thoroughfare  between  the  stiibles 
and  a  kind  of  shop  or  bar-T'ooni,  was  cleared  of  a  variety  of 
lumber,  and  I  was  assured  that  a  bod  should  be  put  up  there 
for  me.  From  the  consultations  I  saw  my  hostt^ss  holding 
with  some  of  her  neighbour  gossips,  I  fancied  the  bed  was  to 
be  a  kind  of  piecemeal  contribution  among  them  for  the  credit 
of  the  house. 

As  soon  as  I  could  change  my  dress,  I  commenced  the  histori- 
cal researches,  which  were  the  object  of  my  journey,  and 
incjuired  for  the  abode  of  Don  Juan  Fernandez  Pinzon.  ]\Iy 
obliging  landloi-d  liimself  volunteercid  to  conduct  me  thither, 
and  I  set  off  full  of  animation  at  the  thi)Uf;hts  of  meeting  Avith 
the  lineal  rejiresentative  of  one  of  the  coadjutors  of  Columbus. 

A  short  walk  brought  us  to  the  houso,  which  was  most  re- 
spectable in  its  appearance,  indicating  easy  if  not  affluent  cir- 
cumstances. The  door,  as  is  customary  in  Spanish  villages 
during  dimmer,  stood  wide  open.  We  entered  with  the  usual 
salutation,  or  rather  summons,  "Ave  Maria!"    A  trim  Anda- 


214  SPAmSII   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

lusian  handmaid  answered  to  the  call,  and,  on  our  inqniring 
for  the  master  of  the  house,  led  the  way  across  a  little  patio  or 
court  in  the  centre  of  the  edifice,  cooled  by  a  fountain  sur- 
roimded  by  shrubs  and  flowers,  to  a  back  court  or  terrace,  like- 
wise set  out  with  flowers,  where  Don  Juan  Fernandez  was 
seated  with  his  family  enjoying  the  serene  evening  in  the  open 
air. 

I  was  much  pleased  with  his  appearance.  He  was  a  ven- 
erable old  gentleman,  tall  and  somewhat  thin,  with  fair  com- 
plexion and  gray  hair.  He  received  me  with  great  urbanity, 
and,  on  reading  the  letter  from  his  son,  appeared  struck  with 
surprise  to  find  I  had  come  quite  to  Moguer  merely  to  visit 
the  scene  of  the  embarkation  of  Columbus ;  and  still  more  so  on 
my  telling  him  that  one  of  my  leading  objects  of  curiosity  was 
his  own  family  connexion ;  for  it  would  seem  that  the  worthy 
cavalier  had  troubled  his  head  but  little  about  the  enterprises 
of  his  ancestors. 

I  now  took  my  seat  in  the  domestic  circle  and  soon  felt 
myself  quite  at  home,  for  there  is  generally  a  frankness  in 
the  hospitality  of  Spaniards  that  soon  puts  a  stranger  at  liis 
ease  beneath  their  roof.  The  wife  of  Don  Fernandez  was 
extremely  amiable  and  affable,  possessing  much  of  that  nat- 
ural aptness  for  which  the  Spanish  women  are  remarkable. 
In  the  course  of  conversation  with  them,  I  learnt  that  Don 
Juan  Fernandez,  who  is  seventy-two  years  of  age,  is  the  eldest 
of  five  brothers,  all  of  whom  are  married,  have  numerous  off- 
spring, and  lived  in  Moguer  and  its  vicinity  in  nearly  the 
same  condition  and  rank  of  life  as  at  the  time  of  the  dis- 
covery. This  agreed  with  what  I  had  previously  heard  re- 
specting the  famines  of  the  discoverers.  Of  Columbus  no 
lineal  and  direct  descendant  exists;  his  was  an  exotic  stock 
that  never  took  deep  and  lasting  root  in  the  country ;  but  the 
race  of  the  Pinzons  continues  to  thrive  and  multiply  in  its 
native  soil. 

While  I  was  yet  conversing  a  gentleman  entered,  who  wr.s 
introduced  to  me  as  Don  Luis  Fernandez  Pinzon,  the  young- 
est of  the  brothers.  He  appeared  to  be  between  fi  fty  and  sixty 
years  of  age,  somewhat  robust,  with  fair  complexion  and  gray 
hair,  and  a  frank  and  manly  deportment.  He  is  the  only  one 
of  the  pi-esent  generation  that  has  followed  the  ancient  pro- 
fession of  the  family ;  having  served  with  great  applause  as  an 
officer  of  the  royal  navy,  from  which  he  retu-ed  on  his  mar- 
riage about  tv/cnt^-'tv.'o  years  since.     He  is  the  one  also  who 


APPEyDix.  215 

takes  the  greatest  interest  and  pride  in  the  historical  honours 
of  his  house,  carefully  prescrvinf?  all  the  lej^onds  and  docu- 
ments of  the  acliievonionts  and  distinctions  of  his  family,  a 
manuscript  vohnno  of  which  he  lent  nie  for  my  insi)C(;ti(»n. 

Don  Juan  now  expressed  a  wish  that  during  my  residence 
in  Moguer  I  wduld  make  his  house  my  home.  I  endeavoured 
to  excuse  myself,  alleging  that  the  good  people  at  the  pcsjida 
had  been  at  such  extraordinary  trouble  in  preparing  quarters 
for  me  that  I  did  not  hke  to  disappoint  them.  The  worthy  old 
gentleman  mi<lertook  to  arrange  all  this,  and,  while  supper 
was  preparing,  we  walked  together  to  the  posada.  I  found 
that  my  obliging  host  and  hostess  had  indeed  exerted  them- 
selves to  an  uncommon  degree.  An  old  ricketty  table  had 
been  spread  out  in  a  corner  of  the  little  room  as  a  bedstead,  on 
top  of  which  was  propped  up  a  grand  cama  de  liixo,  or  state 
bed,  which  appeared  to  be  the  admiration  of  the  house.  I 
could  not  for  the  soul  of  me  appear  to  undervalue  what  the 
poor  people  had  prepared  with  such  hearty  good-will  and  con- 
sidered such  a  triutnph  of  art  and  luxury ;  so  I  again  entreated 
Don  Juan  to  dispense  with  my  sleeping  at  his  house,  prouusing 
most  faithfully  to  make  my  meaLs  there  while  I  should  stay  at 
Moguer,  and,  as  the  old  gentleman  understood  my  motives  for 
declining  his  invitation  and  felt  a  good-humoured  sympathy  in 
then .,  we  readily  arranged  the  matter.  I  returned,  therefore, 
with  Don  Juan  to  his  house  and  supped  with  his  family.  Dur- 
ing the  repast  a  plan  was  agreed  upon  for  my  visit  to  Palos 
and  to  the  convent  La  Rabida,  in  which  Don  Juan  volunteered 
to  accompany  me  and  be  my  guide,  and  the  following  day  was 
allotted  to  the  expedition.  We  were  to  breakfast  at  a  hacienda 
or  country-seat  which  he  possessed  in  the  vicinity  of  Palos  in 
the  midst  of  his  vineyards,  and  were  to  dine  there  on  our  re- 
turn from  the  convent.  These  arrangements  being  m;  -ie,  wo 
parted  for  the  night ;  I  returned  to  the  posada  highly  gratified 
with  my  visit,  and  slept  soundly  in  the  extraordinary  bed, 
wiiich,  I  may  almost  saj^,  had  been  invented  for  my  accommo- 
dation. 

On  the  following  mommg,  bright  and  early,  Don  Junn  Fer- 
nandez and  myself  set  off  \n  the  calesa  for  Palos.  I  fdt  ap- 
prehensive at  lii'st,  that  the  kind-hearted  old  gentleman,  in  his 
anxiety  to  oblige,  had  left  his  bed  at  too  early  an  hour,  and 
was  exposing  himself  to  fatigues  unsuited  to  his  age.  lie 
laughed  at  the  idea,  and  assured  me  that  he  was  an  early  riser, 
and  accustomed  to  all  kinds  of  exercise  on  horse  and  foot, 


216  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

being  a  keen  sportsman,  and  frequently  passing  days  tog-ether 

among  the  mountains  on  shooting  expeditions,  taking  with 
him  servants,  horses,  and  provisions,  and  hving  in  a  tent.  He 
appeared,  in  fact,  to  be  of  an  active  habit,  and  to  possess  a 
youthful  vivacity  of  spii-it.  His  cheerful  disposition  rendered 
our  morning  drive  extremely  agreeable;  his  urbanity  was 
shown  to  every  one  whom  we  met  on  the  road ;  even  the  com- 
mon peasant  was  saluted  by  liim  with  the  appellation  of  cdbal- 
lero,  a  mark  of  respect  ever  gratifying  to  the  poor  but  proud 
Spaniard,  when  yielded  by  a  superior. 

As  the  tide  was  out  we  drove  along  the  fiat  grounds  border- 
ing the  Tinto.  The  river  was  on  our  right,  Avhile  on  our  left 
was  a  range  of  hills,  jutting  out  into  promontories,  one  beyond 
the  other,  aad  covered  with  vineyards  and  lig  trees.  The 
weather  was  serene,  the  air  was  soft  and  balmy,  and  the  land- 
scape of  that  gentle  kind  calculated  to  put  one  in  a  quiet 
and  happy  humour.  We  passed  close  by  the  skirts  of  Palos, 
and  drove  to  the  hacienda,  which  is  situated  at  some  little  dis- 
tance from  the  village,  between  it  and  the  river.  The  house  is 
a  low  stone  building,  well  white-washed,  and  of  great  length; 
one  end  being  fitted  up  as  a  summer  residence,  with  saloons, 
bed -rooms,  and  a  domestic  chapel ;  and  the  other  as  a  bodega  or 
magazine  for  the  reception  of  the  wine  produced  on  the  estate. 

The  house  stands  on  a  hill,  amidst  vineyards,  which  are  sup- 
posed to  cover  a  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of  Palos, 
no  w  shrunk  to  a  miserable  village.  Beyond  these  vineyards, 
on  the  crest  of  a  distant  hill,  are  seen  the  white  w^aUs  of  the 
convent  of  La  Rabida  rising  above  a  dark  wood  of  pine  trees. 

Below  the  hacienda  flows  the  river  Tinto,  on  which  Colum- 
bus embarked.  It  is  divided  by  a  Ioav  tongue  of  land,  or  rather 
the  sand-bar  of  Saltes,  from  the  river  Odiel,  with  which  it  soon 
minglQ  its  waters,  and  flows  on  to  the  ocean.  Beside  this 
sand-bar,  where  the  channel  of  the  river  runs  deep,  the  squad- 
ron of  Columbus  was  anchored,  and  from  hence  he  made  sail 
on  the  morning  of  liis  departure. 

The  soft  breeze  that  was  blowing  scarcely  ruffled  the  surface 
of  this  beautiful  river ;  two  or  three  picturesque  barks,  called 
my  sticks,  with  long  latme  sails,  were  gliding  down  it.  A  little 
aid  of  the  imagination  might  suffice  to  picture  them  as  the 
light  caravels  of  Columbus,  sallying  forth  on  their  eventful 
expedition,  Avhile  the  distant  bells  of  the  town  of  Huelva, 
which  were  ringing  melodiously,  might  be  supposed  as  cheer- 
ing the  voyagers  with  a  farewell  peal. 


APPENDIX.  217 

I  cannot  express  to  you  what  were  my  feelings  on  treading 
the  shore  whicli  had  once  hoen  animated  by  the  bi/stlo  of 
departure,  and  whose  sands  had  beeii  printed  by  the  last  foot- 
step Of  C'ohnnbus.  The  solenm  and  sulihme  nature  of  the 
event  that  had  followed,  together  with  the  fate  and  fortunes  of 
those  concerned  in  it,  filled  the  mind  with  vague  yet  melan- 
choly ideas.  It  was  hke  viewing  the  silent  and  empty  stage  of 
some  great  drama,  when  all  the  actore  had  departed.  The 
very  asjwct  of  the  landscape,  so  trancpiilly  beautiful,  had  an 
effect  upon  me,  and  o.'<  r  paced  the  deserted  shore  by  the  side  of 
a  descendant  of  one  of  the  chscnverers,  I  felt  my  heart  swelling 
with  emotions  and  my  eyes  filling  with  teal's. 

What  surprised  me  was  to  find  no  semblance  of  a  seaport ; 
there  was  neither  wharf  nor  landing-place — nothing  but  a 
naked  river  bank,  with  th^  hulk  of  a  ferry-boat,  which  I  was 
told  carried  passengers  to  Huelva.  lying  high  and  dry  on  the 
sands,  deserted  by  the  tide.  Palos,  though  it  has  doubtless 
dwindled  away  from  its  former  size,  can  never  have  been 
important  as  to  extent  and  nonnlation.  If  it  possessed  ware- 
houses on  the  beach,  thej'  have  disappeared.  It  is  at  present  a 
mere  village  of  the  poorest  kind,  and  lies  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  river,  in  a  holl<nv  among  hills.  It  contains  a 
few  hundred  inhabitants,  who  subsist  principallj-  by  labouring 
in  the  fields  and  vineyards.  Its  race  of  merchants  and  marin- 
ere  are  extinct.  There  are  no  vessels  belonging  to  the  place, 
nor  any  show  of  traflSc,  exceptme:  at  the  season  of  finiit  and 
wine,  Avhen  a  few  mystic "ks  and  other  litrht  barks  ancliorin  the 
river  to  c<illect  the  ]iroduce  of  the  neicrhbourJiood.  The  people 
are  totally  ignorant,  and  it  is  ]U"obaMe  that  the  gronter  part  of 
them  scarce  know  even  the  name  of  America.  Such  is  the 
place  from  whence  Siilhed  forth  the  enterprise  for  the  discovery 
of  the  w^estern  world  I 

We  were  now  summoned  to  breakfast  in  a  little  saloon  of  the 
hacienda.  The  table  was  covered  with  natural  luxuries  pro- 
duced upon  the  spot — fine  piu-ple  and  muscatel  prrapes  from 
the  adjacent  vineyard,  delicious  melons  from  the  garden,  and 
generous  -wines  made  on  the  estate.  The  repast  was  hei;xi>tened 
by  the  penial  mannei*s  of  my  hospita])le  host,  who  a]iiK\ared  to 
possess  the  most  enviable  cheerfulness  of  spirit  and  simplicity 
of  heart. 

After  breakfast  we  set  off  in  the  calesa  to  visit  the  convent 
of  La  Rabida,  Avhich  is  about  half  a  league  distant.  Tlie  road, 
for  a  part  of  the  way,  lay  through  the  vineyards,  and  was  deep 


218  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO  VERT. 

and  sandy.  The  calasero  had  been  at  his  wits'  end  to  cone  si  ve 
virhat  motive  a  stranger  like  myself,  apparently  travelling  for 
mere  amusement,  could  have  in  coming  so  far  to  see  so  miser- 
able a  place  as  Palos,  which  he  set  down  as  one  of  the  very 
poorest  places  in  the  whole  world ;  but  this  additional  toil  and 
struggle  through  deep  sand  to  visit  the  old  Convent  of  La 
Eabida,  completed  his  confusion— "  Hombre!"  exclaimed  he, 
"  es  una  ruina !  no  hay  mas  que  dos  frailes !" — "  Zounds !  why; 
it's  a  ruin!  there  are  only  two  friars  there!"  Don  Juan 
laughed,  and  told  him  that  I  had  come  all  the  way  from  Seville 
precisely  to  see  that  old  ruin  and  those  two  friars.  The  cala- 
sero made  the  Spaniard's  last  reply  when  he  is  perplexed — he 
shrugged  his  shoulders  and  crossed  himself. 

After  ascending  a  hill  and  passing  through  the  skirts  of  a 
straggling  pine  wood,  we  arrived  in  front  of  the  convent.  It 
stands  in  a  bleak  and  solitary  situation,  on  the  brow  of  a  rocky 
height  or  promontory,  overlooking  to  the  west  a  wide  range  of 
sea  and  land,  bounded  by  the  frontier  mountains  of  Portugal, 
about  eight  leagues  distant.  The  convent  is  shut  out  from  a 
view  of  the  vineyard  of  Palos  by  the  gloomy  forest  of  pines 
which  I  have  mentioned,  which  cover  the  promontory  to  the 
east,  and  darken  the  whole  landscape  in  that  direction. 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  architectui-e  of  the  con- 
vent ;  part  of  it  is  Gothic,  but  the  edifice,  having  been  fre- 
quently repaired,  and  being  white-washed,  according  to  a  uni- 
versal custoin  in  Andalusia,  inherited  from,  the  Moors,  it  has 
not  that  venerable  aspect  which  might  be  expected  from  its 
antiquity. 

We  alighted  at  the  gate  where  Columbus,  when  a  poor 
pedestrian,  a  stranger  in  the  land,  asked  bread  and  water  for 
his  child !  As  long  as  the  convent  stands,  this  must  be  a  spot 
calculated  to  awaken  the  most  thrilling  interest.  The  gate 
remains  apparently  in  nearly  the  same  state  as  at  the  time  of 
his  visit,  but  there  is  no  longer  a  porter  at  hand  to  administer 
to  the  wants  of  the  wayfarer.  The  door  stood  wide  open,  and 
admitted  us  into  a  small  court-yard.  From  thence  we  passed 
through  a  Gothic  portal  into  the  chapel,  without  seeing  a 
human  being.  We  then  traversed  two  interior  cloisters, 
equally  vacant  and  silent,  and  bearing  a  look  of  neglect  and 
dilapidation.  From  an  open  window  we  had  a  peep  at  what 
had  once  been  a  garden,  but  that  had  also  gone  to  ruin ;  the 
walls  were  broken  and  thrown  down;  a  few  shrubs,  and  a 
scattered  fig-tree  or  two,  were  all  the  traces  of  cultivation  that 


APPENDIX.  0]9 

remained.  We  passed  through  the  long  dormitories,  but  the 
cells  wore  shut  up  and  abandoned;  we  saw  no  living  thing 
except  a  solitary  cat  stealing  across  a  distant  corridor,  which 
fled  in  a  panic  at  the  uniisuiil  sight  of  strangers.  At  length, 
after  patrolling  nearly  the  whole  of  the  empty  building  to  the 
echo  of  our  own  footsteps,  we  came  to  where  the  door  of  a  cell, 
being  partly  open,  gave  us  the  sight  of  a  monk  within,  seated 
at  a  table  writing.  He  rose  and  received  us  with  much  civil- 
ity, and  conducted  us  to  the  superior,  who  was  reading  in  au 
adjacent  cell.  They  were  both  rather  young  men,  and, 
together  with  a  no\itiate  and  a  laj'^-brother,  who  officiated  as 
cook,  formed  the  whole  communit}^  of  the  convent. 

Don  Juan  Fernandez  communicated  to  them  the  object  of 
my  visit,  and  my  desire  also  to  mspect  the  archives  of  the 
convent  to  find  if  there  was  any  record  of  the  sojourn  of 
Columbus.  They  informed  us  that  the  archives  had  been 
entirely  destroyed  by  the  French.  The  j'ounger  monk,  how- 
ever, who  had  iDsrused  them,  had  a  vague  recollection  of 
various  particulars  concerning  the  transactions  of  Columbus 
at  Palos,  his  visit  to  the  convent,  and  the  sailing  of  his 
expedition.  From  all  that  he  cited,  however,  it  appeared  to 
me  that  all  the  information  on  the  subject  contained  in  the 
archives,  had  been  extracted  from  Horrera  and  other  well 
known  authors.  The  monk  was  talkative  and  eloquent,  and 
soon  diverged  from  the  subject  of  Columbus,  to  one  which 
he  considered  of  infinitely  greater  importance; — the  mirac- 
ulous image  of  the  Virgm  possessed  by  their  convent,  and 
known  by  the  name  of  "Our  Lady  of  La  Rabida."  lie  gave 
us  a  history  of  the  wonderful  Avay  in  which  the  image  bad 
been  found  buried  in  the  eai-th,  where  it  hpd  lain  hidden  for 
ages,  since  the  time  of  the  conquest  of  Spain  by  the  floors; 
the  disputes  between  the  convent  and  different  places  in  the 
neighbourhood  for  the  possession  of  it;  the  marvellous  pro- 
tection it  extended  to  the  adjacent  country,  especially  in 
preventing  all  madness,  either  in  man  or  dog,  for  this  malady 
was  anciently  so  prevalent  in  this  place  as  to  gain  it  the 
appellation  of  La  Rabia,  by  which  it  was  originally  called;  a 
name  which,  thanks  to  the  beneficent  influence  of  the  Virgin, 
it  no  longer  merited  or  retained.  Such  are  the  legends  and 
reliques  with  which  every  convent  in  Spain  is  enriched  which 
are  zealously  cried  up  by  the  monks,  and  devoutly  credited  by 
the  populace. 

Twice  a  year  on  the  festival  of  our  Lady  of  La  Eabida,  and 


220  SPANISH   VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERY. 

on  that  of  the  patron  sa:int  of  the  order,  the  soHtude  and 
silence  of  the  convent  are  interrupted  by  the  intinision  of  a 
swanning  multitude,  composed  of  the  inhabitants  of  Moguer, 
of  Huelva,  and  the  neighbouring  plains  and  mountains.  The 
open  esplanade  in  front  of  the  edifice  resembles  a  fair,  the 
adjacent  forest  teems  with  the  motley  throng,  and  the  image 
of  our  Lady  of  La  Eabida  is  borne  forth  in  triumphant 
procession. 

While  the  friar  was  thus  dilating  upon  the  merits  and 
renown  of  the  image,  I  amused  myself  with  those  day  dreams, 
or  conjurings  of  the  imagination  to  which  I  am  a  little  given. 
As  the  internal  arrangements  of  convents  are  apt  to  be  the 
same  from  age  to  age,  I  pictured  to  myself  this  chamber  as  the 
same  inhabited  by  the  guardian,  Juan  Perez  de  Marchena,  at 
the  time  of  the  visit  of  Columbus.  Why  might  not  the  old 
and  ponderous  table  before  me  be  the  veiy  one  on  which  he 
displayed  his  conjectural  maps,  and  expounded  his  theory  of 
a  western  route  to  India?  It  required  but  another  stretch  of 
the  imagination  to  assemble  the  little  conclave  around  the 
table;  Juan  Perez  the  friar,  Garci  Fernandez  the  physician, 
and  Martin  Alonzo  Pinzon,  the  bold  navigator,  all  listening 
with  rapt  attention  to  Columbus,  or  to  the  tale  of  some  old 
seaman  of  Palos,  about  islands  seen  in  the  westei'n  parts  of 
the  ocean. 

The  friars,  as  far  as  their  poor  means  and  scanty  knowledge 
extended,  were  disposed  to  do  every  thing  to  promote  the 
object  of  my  visit.  They  showed  us  aU  parts  of  the  convent, 
which,  however,  has  little  to  boast  of,  excepting  the  historical 
associations  connected  with  it.  The  library  was  reduced  to  a 
few  volumes,  chiefly  on  ecclesiastical  subjects,  piled  promiscu- 
ously in  the  corner  of  a  vaulted  chamber,  and  covered  with 
dust.  The  chamber  itself  was  curious,  being  the  most  ancient 
part  of  the  edifice,  and  supposed  to  have  formed  part  of  a 
temple  in  the  time  of  the  Romans. 

We  ascended  to  the  roof  of  the  convent  to  enjoy  the 
extensive  prospect  it  commands.  Immediately  below  the 
promontory  on  which  it  is  situated,  runs  a  narrow  but 
tolerably  deep  river,  called  the  Domingo  Rubio,  which  empties 
itself  into  the  Tinto.  It  is  the  opinion  of  Don  Luis  Fernandez 
Pinzon,  that  the  ships  of  Columbus  were  careened  and  fitted 
out  in  this  river,  as  it  affords  better  shelter  than  the  Tinto, 
and  its  shores  are  not  so  shallow.  A  lonely  bark  of  a  fisher- 
man was  lying  in  this   stream,  and  not  far  off,  on  a  sandy 


APPENDIX.  221 

point,  were  the  niins  of  an  ancient  ■watchtower.  From  the 
roof  of  the  convent,  all  the  windings  of  the  Odiel  and  the 
Tinto  were  to  be  seen,  and  their  junction  into  the  main 
stream,  by  which  Columbus  sallied  forth  to  sea.  In  fact,  the 
convent  serves  as  a  landmark,  being,  from  its  lofty  and 
solitary  situation,  visible  for  a  considerable  distance  to  vessels 
coming  on  the  coast.  On  the  opposite  side  I  looked  down 
upt-xi  the  lonely  road,  through  the  wood  of  pine  trees,  by 
which  the  zealous  guardian  of  the  convent,  Fray  Juan  Perez, 
departed  at  midnight  on  his  mule,  when  he  sought  the  camp 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  the  Vega  of  Granada,  to  plead 
the  project  of  Cohunbus  before  the  queen. 

Having  finished  our  inspection  of  the  convent,  we  prepared 
to  depart,  and  were  accomi:)anied  to  the  outward  portal  by  the 
two  fria-o.  Our  calasero  brought  his  rattling  and  ricketty 
vehicle  for  us  to  mount ;  at  sight  of  which  one  of  the  monks 
exclaimed,  with  a  smile,  "Santa  Maria  I  only  to  think!  A 
calesa  before  the  gate  of  the  convent  of  La  Rabida!"  And, 
indeed,  so  solitary  and  remote  is  this  ancient  edifice,  and  so 
simple  is  the  mode  of  living  of  the  people  in  this  bye  corner  of 
Spain,  that  the  appearance  of  even  a  sorry  calesa  might  well 
cause  astonishment.  It  is  only  sin.gidar  that  in  such  a  bye- 
corner  the  scheme  of  Columbus  should  have  found  intelligent 
listeners  and  coadjutors,  after  it  had  been  discarded,  almost 
with  scoffing  and  contempt,  from  learned  universities  and 
splendid  courts. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  hacienda,  we  met  Don  Rafael,  a 
younger  son  of  Don  Juan  Fernandez,  a  fine  young  man  about 
twenty-one  years  of  age,  and  who,  liis  father  informed  me, 
was  at  present  studj-ing  French  and  mathematics.  He  was 
well  mounted  on  a  spirited  graj'  horse,  and  dressed  in  the 
Andalusian  style,  with  the  little  round  hat  and  jacket.  He 
sat  his  horse  gracefully,  and  managed  him  well.  I  was 
pleased  with  the  frank  and  easy  terms  on  which  Don  Juan 
appeared  to  live  with  his  cliildren.  This  I  was  inclined  to 
think  his  favourite  son,  as  I  imderstood  he  was  tlie  only  one 
that  partook  of  the  old  gentleman's  fondness  for  the  chase, 
and  that  accompanied  him  in  his  himting  excursions. 

A  dinner  had  been  prepared  for  us  at  the  hacienda,  by  the 
wife  of  the  capitaz,  or  overseer,  who,  with  her  husband, 
seemed  to  be  well  pleased  with  this  visit  from  Don  Junn,  and 
to  be  confident  of  receiving  a  pleasant  answer  from  the  good- 
humoured  old  gentleman  whenever  they  addressed  him.    The 


222  SPAKISR  VOYAGES  OF  DISCOVERT. 

dinner  -was  served  up  at  out  t^^^o  o'clock,  find  was  a  most 
agreeable  meal.  The  fruijS  ani  wines  were  from  the  estate, 
and  we:  3  excellent;  •'he  rest  of  the  provisions  were  from 
Moguer,  for  the  djr.cent  vi  lage  of  Palos  is  too  poor  to 
furnish  anything.  A  gentle  breeze  from  the  sea  played 
through  the  hall,  and  tempered  the  summer  heat.  Indeed  I 
do  not  hnow  when  I  have  seen  a  more  enviable  spot  than  this 
country  retreat  of  the  Pinzons.  Its  situation  on  a  breezy  hiU, 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  sea,  and  in  a  southern  climate, 
produces  a  happy  temperature,  neither  hot  in  suinmer  nor 
cold  in  winter.  It  commands  a  beautiful  prospect,  and  is 
siu-rounied  by  natural  luxuries.  T!ie  country  abounds  with 
^ame,  the  adjacent  river  affords  abundant  sport  in  fishing, 
both  by  day  and  night,  and  delightful  excursions  for  those 
fond  of  sailing.  During  the  busy  seasons  of  rural  life,  and 
especially  at  the  joyous  period  of  vintage,  the  family  pass 
some  time  here,  accompanied  by  numerous  guests,  at  which 
times,  Don  Juan  assured  me,  there  was  no  lack  of  amuse- 
nxents,  both  by  land  and  water. 

When  we  had  dined,  and  taken  the  siesta,  or  afternoon  nap, 
according  to  the  Spanish  custom  in  summer-time,  Ave  set  out 
on  our  return  to  Moguer,  visiting  the  village  of  Palos  in  the 
way.  Don  Gabriel  had  been  sent  in  advance  to  procure  the 
keys  of  the  village  church,  and  to  apprise  the  curate  of  our 
wish  to  inspect  the  archives.  The  village  consists  principally 
of  two  streets  of  low  white-washed  houses.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  have  very  dark  complexions,  betraying  a  mixture 
of  African  blood. 

On  entering  the  village,  we  repaired  to  the  lowly  mansion 
of  the  curate.  I  had  hoped  to  find  him  some  such  personage 
as  the  curate  in  Don  Quixote,  possessed  of  shrewdness  and 
information  in  his  limited  splnore,  and  that  I  might  gain  some 
anecdotes  from  him  concerning  his  parish,  its  worthies,  its 
antiquities,  and  its  historical  events.  Perhaps  I  might  have 
done  so  at  any  other  time,  but,  unfortunately,  the  curate  was 
something  of  a  sportsman,  and  had  heard  of  some  game 
among  the  neighbouring  hills.  "We  met  him  just  salljing 
forth  from  his  house,  and,  I  must  con  Tecs,  his  appearance  was 
picturesque.  He  was  a  short,  broad,  sturdy  little  man,  and 
had  doffed  his  cassock  and  broad  clerical  beaver  for  a  short 
jacket  and  a  little  I'ound  Andalusian  hat ;  he  had  his  gun  in 
hand,  and  v/as  on  the  point  of  mounting  a  donkey  which  had 
been  led  forth  by  an  ancient  withered  handmaid.     Fearful  of 


APPENDIX.  003 

being  detained  from  his  foray,  he  accosted  my  companion  the 
moment  he  came  in  sight.  "God  preserve  you,  Senor  Don 
Juan!  I  have  received  your  message,  and  have  but  one 
answer  to  make.  The  archives  have  all  been  destroyed.  We 
have  no  trace  of  any  thing  you  seek  for — nothing— nothing. 
Don  Rafael  has  the  keys  of  the  church.  You  can  examine  it 
at  your  leisure. — Adios,  caballero!"  With  these  words  the 
galliard  little  curate  mounted  his  donkey,  thumped  his  ribs 
with  the  butt  end  of  his  gim,  and  trotted  off  to  the  hills. 

In  our  way  to  the  church  we  passed  by  the  ruins  of  what 
had  once  been  a  fair  and  spacious  dwelling,  greatly  superior 
to  the  other  houses  of  the  village.  This,  Don  Juan  informed 
me,  was  an  old  family  possession,  but  since  they  had  removed 
from  Palos  it  had  fallen  to  decay  for  want  of  a  tenant.  It  was 
probably  the  family  residence  of  !Martin  Alonzo  or  Vicente 
Yafiez  Pinzon,  in  the  time  of  Columbus. 

We  now  arrived  at  the  church  of  St.  George,  in  the  porch  of 
which  Columbus  first  proclaimed  to  the  inhabitants  of  Palos 
the  order  of  the  sovereigns,  that  they  should  furnish  him  with 
ships  for  his  great  voyage  of  discoverj^.  This  edifice  has 
lately  been  thorougldy  repaired,  and,  being  of  solid  mason- 
work,  promises  to  stand  foi"  ages,  a  monument  of  the  discover- 
ers. It  stands  outside  of  the  village,  on  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
looking  along  a  little  valley  toward  the  river.  The  remains  of 
a  ]\Ioorish  ai-ch  prove  it  to  ha^e  been  a  mosque  in  former 
times;  just  above  it,  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  is  the  ruin  of  a 
Moorish  castle. 

I  paused  in  the  porch  and  endeavoured  to  recall  the 
interesting  scene  that  had  taken  place  there,  when  Columbus, 
accompanied  by  the  zealous  friar,  Juan  Perez,  caused  the 
public  notary  to  read  the  royal  order  in  presence  of  the 
astonished  alcaldes,  regidors,  and  alguazils;  but  it  is  difficidt 
to  conceive  the  consternation  that  must  have  been  struck  int' 
so  remote  a  little  comnuinity,  by  tins  sudden  apparition  of  ai 
entire  stranger  among  them,  bearing  a  connnand  that  they 
should  put  their  persons  and  ships  at  his  disposal,  and  sail 
with  him  away  into  the  unknown  wilderness  of  the  ocean. 

The  interior  of  the  church  has  nothing  remarkable,  except- 
ing a  wooden  image  of  St.  George  vanquishing  the  Dragon, 
which  is  erected  over  the  high  altar,  and  is  tlie  admiration  of 
the  good  people  of  Palos,  who  l)ear  it  about  the  streets  in 
grand  procession  on  the  anniveisary  of  the  saint.  This  group 
existed   in   the    time    of    Cohunbus,   and  now  flourishes    in 


224  SPANISH  VOYAGES  OF  DISCO VEEY. 

renovated  youth  and  splendour,  having  been  newly  painted 
and  gilded,  and  the  countenance  of  the  saint  rendered  i)ecu- 
liarly  blooming  and  lustrous. 

Having  finished  the  examination  of  the  church,  we  resumed 
our  seats  in  the  calesa  and  returned  to  Moguer.  One  thing 
only  remained  to  fulfil  the  object  of  my  pilgrimage.  This  was 
to  visit  the  chapel  of  the  Convent  of  Santa  Clara.  When 
Columbus  was  in  danger  of  being  lost  in  a  temiiest  on  his  way 
hon.  from  his  great  voyage  of  discovery,  he  made  a  vow, 
that  should  he  be  spared,  he  would  watch  and  pray  one  whole 
night  in  tliis  chapel;  a  vow  which  he  doubtless  fulfilled 
immediately  after  his  arrival. 

My  kind  *nd  attentive  friend,  Don  Juan,  conducted  me  to 
the  convent.  It  is  the  wealthiest  m  Moguer,  and  belongs  to  a 
sisterhood  of  Franciscan  nuns.  The  chapel  is  large,  and 
ornamented  with  some  degree  of  richness,  particularly  the 
part  about  the  high  altar,  which  is  embellished  by  magnificent 
monuments  of  the  brave  family  of  the  Puerto  Carre ros,  the 
ancient  lords  of  Moguer,  and  renowned  in  Moorish  warfare. 
The  alabaster  effigies  of  distinguished  warriors  of  that  house, 
and  of  their  wives  and  sisters,  lie  side  by  side,  with  folded 
hands,  on  tombs  immediately  before  the  altar,  while  others 
recline  in  deep  niches  on  either  side.  The  night  had  closed  in 
by  the  time  I  entered  the  church,  which  made  the  scene  more 
impressive.  A  few  votive  lamps  shed  a  dim  light  about  the 
interior ;  their  beams  were  feebly  reflected  by  the  gilded  work 
of  the  high  altar,  and  the  frames  of  the  surrounding  paintings, 
'  and  rested  upon  the  marble  figures  of  the  warriors  and  dames 
lying  in  the  monumental  repose  of  ages.  The  solemn  pile 
must  have  presented  much  the  same  appearance  when  the 
pious  discoverer  performed  his  vigil,  kneeling  before  this  very 
altar,  and  praying  and  watching  throughout  the  night,  and 
pouring  forth  heart-felt  praises  for  having  been  spared  to  ac- 
complish his  sublime  discoveiy. 

I  had  now  completed  the  main  purpose  of  my  journey, 
havin;?  visited  the  various  places  connected  with  the  story  of 
Columbus.  It  was  highly  gratifying  to  find  some  of  them  so 
little  changed,  though  so  great  a  space  of  time  had  intervened ; 
but  in  this  quiet  nook  of  Spain,  so  far  removed  from  the  main 
thoroughfares,  the  lapse  of  time  produces  but  few  violent 
revolutions.  Nothing,  hoAvever.  had  siu'prised  and  gratified 
me  more  than  the  continued  stability  of  the  Pinzon  family. 
On  the  morning  after  my  excursion  to  Palos,  chance  gave  mo 


APPENDIX.  2?;") 

an  opportunity  of  seeing  something  of  the  interior  of  most  of 
theii-  JlOU!^oholds.  Having  a  curiosity  to  visit  the  remains  of  a 
Moorish  castle,  once  the  citadel  of  iloguer,  Don  Fernandez 
undertook  to  show  me  a  tower  which  servcnl  as  a  magazine  of 
"vviue  to  one  of  the  Pinzon  family.  In  seeking  for  the  key  we 
were  sent  from  house  to  house  of  nearly  the  whole  connexion. 
All  appeai'cd  to  be  h\ang  in  that  golden  mean  equiilly  removed 
from  the  wants  and  superfluities  of  life,  and  all  to  bo  happily 
interwoven  by  kind  and  cordial  habits  of  intimacy.  We 
found  the  femtiles  of  the  family  generally  seated  in  the  patios, 
or  ceutniJ  courts  of  their  dwellings,  beneath  the  shade  of 
aAvnings  and  among  shi-ubs  and  flowers.  Here  the  Andalusian 
ladies  are  accustomed  to  jiass  their  mornings  at  work,  sur- 
roimded  hy  their  handmaids,  ip.  the  primitive,  or  rather, 
oriental  style.  In  the  porches  of  some  of  the  houses  I  ob- 
served the  coat  of  arms,  granted  to  the  family  by  Charles  V., 
hung  up  like  a  picture  in  a  frame.  Over  the  door  of  Don  Luis, 
the  naval  ofiicer,  it  was  carved  on  an  escutcheon  of  stone,  and 
coloured.  I  had  gathered  naany  particulars  of  the  family  also 
from  convei'sation  with  Don  Juan,  and  from  the  family  legend 
lent  me  by  Don  Luis.  From  all  that  I  could  learn,  it  would 
ap]ioar  that  the  lapse  of  nearly  three  centuries  and  a  half  has 
made  but  little  change  in  the  condition  of  the  Pinzons.  From 
generation  to  generation  they  have  retained  the  same  fair- 
standing  and  reputable  name  throughout  the  neighbourhood, 
filling  offices  of  public  trust  and  dignity,  and  possessing  great 
influence  over  their  fellow-citizens  by  their  good  sense  and 
good  conduct.  How  rare  is  it  to  see  such  an  instance  of 
stability  of  fortune  in  this  fluctuating  world,  and  how  truly 
honourable  is  this  hereditary  respectability,  which  has  been 
secured  by  no  titles  or  entails,  but  peipetuated  }nerely  by  the 
innate  worth  of  the  race!  I  declare  to  you  that  the  most 
illustrious  descents  of  mere  titled  rank  coiUd  never  command  the 
sincere  respect  and  cordial  regard  with  which  I  contemplated 
this  staunch  and  enduring  family,  which  for  tlu-ee  centuries 
and  a  half  has  stood  merely  upon  its  virtues. 

As  I  was  to  set  off  on  my  return  to  Seville  before  two 
o'clock,  I  partook  of  a  farewell  repast  at  the  house  of  Don 
Juan,  between  twelve  and  one,  and  then  took  leave  of  his 
household  with  sincere  regret.  The  good  old  gentleman,  with 
the  coiirtesy,  or  rather  the  cordiahty  of  a  tiiie  Spaniard, 
accom]ianied  me  to  the  posada  to  see  me  off.  I  had  dispensed 
but  little  money  in  the  posada — thanks  to  the  hospitality  of 


226  s^A^'IS^  voyages  of  discovery. 

the  Pinzons— yet  the  Spanish  pride  of  my  host  and  hostess 
seemed  pleased  that  I  had  prefen-ed  their  humble  chamber, 
and  the  scanty  bed  they  had  pro\adcd  me,  to  the  spacious 
mansion  of  Don  Juan ;  and  when  I  expressed  my  thanks  for 
their  kiadness  and  attention,  and  regaled  mine  host  with  a 
few  choice  cigars,  the  heart  of  the  poor  man  was  overcome. 
He  seized  me  by  both  hands  and  gave  me  a  parting  bene- 
diction, and  then  ran  after  the  calasero  to  enjoin  him  to  take 
particular  care  of  me  during  my  journey. 

Taking  a  hearty  leave  of  my  excellent  friend  Don  Juan,  who 
had  been  unremitting  in  his  attentions  to  me  to  the  last 
moment,  I  now  set  off  on  my  wayfaring,  gratified  to  the 
utmost  with  my  visit,  and  full  of  kind  and  grateful  feelings 
towards  Moguer  and  its  hospitable  inhabitants. 


MANIFESTO  OF  ALONZO  DE  OJEDA. 

[The  following  ctirious  formula,  composed  hy  learned  divines  in  Spain,  was  first 
read  aloud  by  the  friars  in  the  train  of  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  as  a  prelude  to  his 
attack  on  the  savages  of  Carthagena;  and  was  subsequently  adopted  b.v  the 
Spanish  discoverers    in  general,  in  their  invasions   of  the  Indian  countries.] 

I,  Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  servant  of  the  high  and  mighty  kings 
of  Castile  and  Leon,  civilizers  of  barbarous  nations,  their 
messenger  and  captain,  notify  and  make  known  to  you,  in  the 
best  way  I  can,  that  God  our  Lord,  one  and  eternal,  created 
the  heavens  and  the  earth,  and  one  man  and  one  woman,  from 
whom  you,  and  we,  and  all  the  people  of  the  earth  were  and 
are  descendants,  pj-ocreated,  and  all  those  Avho  shall  come 
after  us;  but  the  vast  number  of  generations  which  have 
proceeded  frora  ti^em,  in  the  course  of  more  than  five  thous- 
and years  that  have  elapsed  since  the  creation  of  the  world, 
made  it  necessary  that  some  of  the  human  race  should  disperse 
in  one  direction  and  some  in  another,  and  that  they  should 
divide  themselves  into  many  kingdoms  and  provinces,  as  they 
could  not  sustain  and  preserve  themselves  in  one  alone.  All 
these  people  were  given  in  charge,  by  God  our  Lord,  to  one 
person,  named  St.  Peter,  who  was  thus  made  lord  and 
superior  of  all  the  people  of  the  earth,  and  head  of  the  whole 
human  lineage,  whom  all  should  obey,  wherever  they  might 
live,  and  whatever  might  be  their  law,  sect  or  belief ;  he  gave 


APPF.^'DIX.  227 

him  also  the  whole  world  for  his  sersace  and  jurisdiction,  and 
though  he  desired  that  ho  shoidd  estahhsh  his  chair  in  Rome, 
as  a  place  most  convenient  for  governing  the  wf  rid,  yet  he 
permitted  that  ho  might  estabUsh  his  chair  ui  any  other  part 
of  the  world,  and  judge  and  govern  iill  the  nations,  Christians, 
Moors,  Jews,  Gentiles,  and  whatever  other  sect  or  behef  might* 
b^.  This  person  was  denominated  Pope,  that  is  to  Siiy, 
admirable,  supreme,  father  and  guardian,  because  he  is  lather 
and  governor  of  all  mankind.  This  holy  father  was  obeyed 
and  honoured  as  lord,  king,  and  superior  of  the  miiverse  by 
those  who  lived  m  his  time,  and,  in  Hke  manner,  have  been 
obeyed  and  honoured  by  all  those  who  have  been  ek'cted  to 
the  Pontificate,  and  thus  it  has  continued  unto  the  present 
day,  and  will  contmue  untd  the  end  of  the  world. 

One  of  these  Pontiffs  of  whom  I  have  spoken,  as  lord  of  tlie 
world,  made  a  donation  of  these  islands  and  continents,  of  the 
ocean,  sea,  and  all  .that  they  contain,  to  the  Catholic  kings  of 
Cabtile,  who  at  that  time  were  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  of 
glorious  memory,  and  to  their  successors,  our  sovereigns, 
according  to  the  tenor  of  certain  papers  drawn  up  for  the 
purpose,  (which  you  may  sje  if  you  desire.)  Thus  his  maje^-ty 
is  king  and  sovereign  of  these  islands  and  continents  by  virtue 
of  the  said  donation;  and  as  king  and  sovereign,  certain 
islands,  and  almost  all  to  whom  this  has  been  notified,  luivo 
received  his  majesty,  and  have  obeyed  and  served  and  do 
actually  serve  him.  And,  moreover,  like  good  subjects,  and 
with  good-will,  and  without  any  resistence  or  delay,  the 
raomont  they  were  informt^d  of  the  foregoing,  they  obeyed  all 
the  religious  men  sent  among  them  to  preach  and  teach  our 
Holy  Faith;  and  these  of  their  free  and  choorfid  will,  without 
any  condition  or  reward,  became  Chri.stians,  and  continue  so 
to  be.  And  his  majesty  received  them  kindly  and  bonig- 
nantly,  and  ordered  that  they  should  be  treated  like  his  other 
subjects  and  vassals:  you  also  are  requii-fd  and  obliged  to  do 
the  same.  Therefore,  in  the  best  manner  I  can.  I  pray  and 
entreat  you,  that  you  consider  well  what  I  have  said,  and  that 
you  take  whatever  time  is  rea.sonable  to  imderstard  and 
deliberate  upon  it,  and  that  you  recognise  the  chiux-h  for 
sovereign  and  superior  of  the  universal  world,  and  the 
supreme  Poitiff,  called  Pope,  in  her  name,  and  his  majesty  in 
his  place,  as  superior  and  sovereign  king  of  the  islands  and 
Terra  Firma,  by  virtue  of  the  said  donation ;  and  that  you 
consent  tliat  these  religious  fathere  declare  and  preach  to  you 


228  SPA2il^II    VOYAGL'S   OF  DISCOVERY. 

the  foregoing ;  and  if  you  shall  so  do,  you  wUl  do  well ;  and 
will  do  that  to  which  you  are  bounden  and  obliged ;  and  his 
majesty,  and  I  in  his  name,  will  receive  you  with  all  due  love 
and  charity,  and  will  leave  you,  your  wives  and  children,  free 
from  servitude,  that  you  may  freely  do  with  these  and  with 
yourselves  whatever  you  please,  and  think  proper,  as  have 
done  the  inhabitants  of  the  other  islands.  And  besides  this, 
his  majesty  will  give  you  many  privileges  and  exemptions, 
and  grant  you  many  favours.  If  you  do  not  do  this,  or 
wickedly  and  intentionally  delay  to  do  so,  I  certify  to  you, 
that  by  the  aid  of  God,  I  will  powerfully  invade  and  make 
war  upon  you  in  all  parts  and  modes  that  I  can,  and  will 
subdue  you  to  the  yoke  and  obedience  of  the  church  and  of 
his  majesty,  and  I  wiU  take  your  wives  and  children  and 
make  slaves  of  them,  and  sell  them  as  such,  and  dispose  of 
them  as  his  majesty  may  coixunand;  and  I  will  take  your 
effects  and  wUl  do  you  all  the  harm  and  injury  in  my  power, 
as  vassals  who  will  not  obey  or  receive  their  sovereign  and 
who  resist  and  oppose  him.  And  I  protest  that  the  deaths  and 
disasters  which  may  in  this  manner  be  occasioned,  wiU  be  the 
fault  of  yourselves  and  not  of  his  majesty,  nor  of  me,  nor  of 
these  cavaliers  who  accompany  me.  And  of  what  I  here  teU 
you  and  require  of  you,  I  call  upon  the  notary  here  present  to 
give  me  hirf  signed  testimonial. 


10, 


lllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllMIIIIIIIIIIIII 

AA    000  930  492    4 


»v^   ■>   ,       >» 


^^S^^M^ 


•V*!*" 


